A Beijing Guoan Fan Supporters’ Trip to Seoul: Match-Watching Travelogue (Photos)
The reporter twice joined a Beijing Guoan Football Club supporters’ group, in May 2013 and April 2014, traveling to Yanshan World Cup Stadium in Seoul, Korea to cheer for Guoan’s AFC Champions League away matches against Seoul FC. Each trip was a memorable six-day journey combining match-day cheering with sightseeing.
Gathering at Workers’ Stadium (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
I recall the first departure from Beijing was on May 19, 2013. At 4 p.m. that day, the reporter and a hundred lucky fans selected from all corners of the capital to form the ‘Guoan Supporters’ Group’ assembled at Beijing Workers’ Stadium. Before setting off, all the fans posed for their first group photo under a banner bearing the trip’s theme, ‘Fight for Dreams, for Victory.’ Then they boarded four buses and set off for Tianjin Airport in high spirits, singing all the way.
Pre-departure group photo (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
At midday on May 20, the Guoan fans’ group flew from Tianjin Binhai International Airport to Incheon Airport in Korea. The then general manager of Beijing Guoan Football Club, Gao Chao, personally greeted the fans at the airport, posed for photos with them, and was warmly received by the supporters. Everyone pledged to give their full backing to Beijing Guoan’s away match against Seoul FC, promising: ‘Watch the game with civility! Cheer for Beijing Guoan! Applaud the efforts of both teams’ players!’
Heading to the accommodation (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
The supporters’ group traveled from the airport to their accommodation, the Olympic Parktel Seoul. This hotel is a legacy of the 24th Olympic Games held in Seoul. Designed by architect Kim Swoo-geun, a master of architectural art, the building’s overall plan forms a figure-eight shape, symbolizing the year 1988 when the Olympics took place.
Olympic Parktel (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
That afternoon, the fans began their sightseeing tour of Seoul. The group leader for the reporter’s team, Li Bin, was amiable, courteous, and meticulous in his work. He worked closely with the local Seoul guide, Mr. Kim, who quickly bonded with the fans, to provide services for the group. Under Mr. Kim’s guidance, they first visited Seoul’s famous Gwanghwamun Square.
Seoul’s Gwanghwamun Square
Gwanghwamun, a central district of Seoul with 600 years of history, is backed by the beautiful, majestic Bukhansan Mountain and the ancient architectural complex of Gyeongbokgung Palace. It was created as a historical and cultural experience center by restoring the ancient appearance of Sejong-ro—Yukjo Street. Yukjo Street was laid out during the reign of King Taejo of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1398) when Hanyang (the former name of Seoul) was built as the capital, and it is an important relic for understanding road construction methods of the Joseon era.
Statues on the square (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Walking up the winding slope from Haetae Plaza, you will see the bronze statues of the fourth king of the Joseon Dynasty, King Sejong the Great, and Admiral Yi Sun-sin on Gwanghwamun Square, surrounded by various fountains, including ground-level and reflecting pools. Looking left and right from the statues, you’ll see waterways flowing along both sides of the square, following the path of the old Yukjo Street. The waterways are inscribed with key events in Korean history from the founding of Joseon in 1392 to 2008; the water merges with the fountains and then flows into Cheonggyecheon Stream.
View of Cheonggyecheon Stream, Seoul (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Cheonggyecheon Stream is a landscape where nature and culture meet. It is a river that runs through Seoul from north to south. However, in the past, Cheonggyecheon was a severely polluted waterway—its bed covered with sludge and trash, and its banks lined with squalid wooden shacks that discharged waste water. After years of restoration, Cheonggyecheon was finally revived into the clean, pleasant waterway it is today.
Reporter by Cheonggyecheon Stream (Photo: Zhu Yang)
Today, Cheonggyecheon’s clear, beautiful waters and its banks offer comfortable leisure spaces. Along the waterway, excellent photographs and paintings are on display, providing an ideal place to experience culture, connect with nature, and observe and learn about the ecosystem. Walking along Cheonggyecheon, you’ll see parents strolling with their children, young couples dipping their feet in the water and chatting on the banks, relaxed and carefree. A series of uniquely shaped bridges span the stream, forming a delightful contrast with the rows of skyscrapers on both sides.
Group photo at Cheonggyecheon (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
As the fans wandered here, clicking their camera shutters non-stop, they also made sure to hold up their green banner reading ‘Guoan Forever Striving for First’ and struck all kinds of joyful poses, capturing unforgettable, wonderful moments.
Street scenes along the way (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
After visiting Gwanghwamun and Cheonggyecheon, the fans’ group continued by bus to the nearby Cheong Wa Dae (Blue House) and Gyeongbokgung Palace. The bus stopped, and they got off to walk along a very quiet street. Cheong Wa Dae is the official residence of the President of South Korea; its roof is covered with blue tiles, hence the name ‘Blue House.’ The road between the residence and Gyeongbokgung Palace is called Cheong Wa Dae Road.
Scenery along Cheong Wa Dae Road (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Because this is a special area, the atmosphere on this street feels somewhat different from elsewhere. The road is unusually tranquil, with very few vehicles. As it is the presidential residence, security is extremely tight; security personnel in suits or police uniforms stand guard, creating a solemn atmosphere. There are no shops here, and few pedestrians, which adds to the profound peacefulness.
Cheong Wa Dae Guesthouse (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Arriving at the square where Hyoja-ro and Cheong Wa Dae Road intersect, there is a stone phoenix statue symbolizing the head of state, with several groups of figure sculptures around the circular lawn. The reporter noticed a statue of a family of three, its lifelike figures reflecting the harmony and happiness of the family. Continuing past the square, you reach Cheong Wa Dae, which stands opposite the Sinmumun Gate, the rear entrance of Gyeongbokgung Palace. Cheong Wa Dae was originally a secondary palace of the Goryeo Dynasty. After the Joseon Dynasty established its capital in Hanyang (Seoul) in 1426, it was made into the rear garden of Gyeongbokgung, with buildings such as Ryungmudang, Gyeongnongjae, and a training ground, plus a plot of land for the king to do his own farming.
Entering Gyeongbokgung Palace (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
The roof of Cheong Wa Dae is covered with approximately 150,000 blue tiles, which have not faded despite more than 100 years of wind and rain. The main building is a two-story structure housing the president’s office, the first lady’s office, the Inwang Room for receptions, and the Baegak Room, a dining room for about ten people. The left annex contains the Sejong Room for meetings and audiences, while the right annex is the general affairs office. Since it was not a public open day, the fans did not go inside Cheong Wa Dae but entered Gyeongbokgung through Sinmumun Gate and visited the National Folk Museum of Korea within the palace and the ancient architectural complex of Gyeongbokgung, comparable to Beijing’s Forbidden City.
Geunjeongjeon Hall, Gyeongbokgung (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Gyeongbokgung Palace, one of the five grand palaces of the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910) in Seoul, was the dynasty’s main palace. Situated at the foot of Bugaksan Mountain, it is the centerpiece of the urban plan for Seoul, the capital of South Korea. Its name was chosen by Jeong Do-jeon, a founding minister of the Joseon Dynasty, from the Chinese poetry collection ‘The Book of Songs,’ specifically the phrase ‘君子万年，介尔景福’ (meaning ‘May you live for ten thousand years and enjoy boundless blessings’), picking the characters ‘Gyeong’ and ‘Bok.’ It was built in 1395 when King Taejo, Yi Seong-gye, moved the capital from the former Goryeo seat, and it boasts a history of 500 years.
A corner inside Gyeongbokgung Palace (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Gyeongbokgung, also known as ‘Bukgwol’ (Northern Palace), is one of Seoul’s largest and oldest palaces and served as the political center of Korea during the later feudal period. As the fans toured Gyeongbokgung, guide Mr. Kim’s clear explanations gave them a deeper understanding of Korean history from one perspective, proving to be a very rewarding experience.
Scenery at Imjingak (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
On the morning of May 21, the fans continued their Seoul sightseeing. They first traveled by bus to Imjingak, located near the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) and the 38th Parallel. Imjingak, built in 1972 as a security tourism spot to wish for the reunification of the Korean Peninsula, is situated 7 km south of the Military Demarcation Line and about 54 km northwest of Seoul City Hall; it is the northernmost point accessible to ordinary civilians. Imjingak consists of one underground floor and three above-ground floors, comprising a memorial hall, Unification Park, and various monuments. Here they also saw a signboard promoting tours to Panmunjom.
Overlooking Imjingak (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Around Imjingak, there is Mangbaedan, an altar for looking toward one’s hometown and expressing longing for ancestors; an exhibition hall displaying over 400 pieces of materials and pictorials related to North Korea’s military, political, and social aspects; the Peace Bell, Peace Garden, war memorials of the Imjin River area, the U.S. participation monument, and tanks and aircraft used during the Korean War.
Reporter at Imjingak (Photo: Zhu Yang)
Additionally, there is the Bridge of Freedom, ‘Railroad Dream Run (the severed point of the Gyeongui Line),’ and the memorial tower for Myanmar diplomat Aung San and others who sacrificed their lives. It is a security-themed tourist site that remembers the pain of war and division and is permeated with a strong yearning for reunification.
Panmunjom tour promotion sign (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Opposite Imjingak is Mangbaedan, a place where those who left their hometowns come to pay respects facing their native places every Lunar New Year and Chuseok (Korean Thanksgiving). Behind Mangbaedan is the Bridge of Freedom, which was used by North Korea to repatriate South Korean prisoners of war after the armistice agreement was signed in 1953.
Colorful ribbons (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
At Imjingak you can also spot small groups of South Korean soldiers and colorful ribbons tied to the barbed-wire fences, hinting at the site’s connection with war.
Fans take a photo (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Standing on the high platform at Imjingak, the fans could observe North Korea across the border very clearly through powerful binoculars. At that moment, the reporter, standing there and letting his imagination wander, felt more strongly than ever the importance of cherishing and maintaining the hard-won peace, so far removed from gunfire.
Class at the kimchi school (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
The fans’ experiences in Seoul were truly varied and colorful. After visiting Imjingak, they went to the Goyang Kimchi School in Seoul to experience the joy of making kimchi and trying on Korean clothing. It was a hands-on way to gain a deeper understanding of Korean food culture and traditions, and it was nothing short of delightful.
Fans trying their hand at kimchi-making (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
At the Goyang Kimchi School, after seeing the nutritional value presentation and the dazzling variety of kimchi types and recipes, they marveled at how something so simple could be a cultural symbol—truly remarkable! Then, wholeheartedly playing the role of students, under the teacher’s step-by-step guidance, each fan very seriously completed their own ‘first’ kimchi creation. Moreover, when they learned that all the kimchi they made would be collected and donated by the school to a local welfare center for the elderly, the fans were deeply moved. They felt happy and joyful to be able to enjoy such a public-spirited activity while in a foreign land.
Views of Olympic Park (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
After the kimchi school experience, in a well-squeezed moment of free time, Mr. Kim led everyone to the Samsung Electronics Experience Exhibition Hall, where the fans got a taste of modern electronic products. Then, the most exciting moment finally arrived: the entire group would head to Seoul’s Sangam (World Cup) Stadium, which hosted World Cup matches, to watch the evening’s main event—Guoan versus Seoul FC.
Entering Yanshan Stadium (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Seoul Yanshan World Cup Stadium (Seoul World Cup Stadium), located in Mapo-gu, Seoul, is a football-specific venue. Built for the 2002 FIFA World Cup, it was completed in December 2001. The stadium is well known for its unique architectural style. In 2003, the UK-based Construction Industry Council, through World Soccer magazine, named Seoul World Cup Stadium one of the world’s top ten ‘inspiring stadiums,’ describing it as ‘one of many football stadia that have transcended their purpose to become objects of architectural astonishment.’
Reporter outside the stadium (Photo: Zhu Yang)
When viewed from above, Seoul World Cup Stadium resembles a traditional Korean kite and a sailboat, symbolizing the flight of a kite toward victory, blending Korean traditional culture with the World Cup and embodying the beauty of the stadium. It can accommodate 67,000 spectators and is one of Asia’s largest football-specific venues.
Reporter inside the stadium (Photo: Zhu Yang)
At the same time, it was the venue for the 2002 World Cup opening ceremony and the opening match between France and Senegal, as well as the semi-final between South Korea and Germany. After the 2002 World Cup, Seoul World Cup Stadium continued to be used for matches of the South Korean national football team. Since 2004, it has also served as the home ground of FC Seoul.
Group photo with fans (Photo: Li Bin)
Upon arriving at the stadium, even though there was still some time before kick-off, the fans could no longer contain their joy and excitement. Everyone was holding up various cheering banners and scarves, posing for photos against the backdrop of Yanshan Stadium. Some had painted their faces with national flags or Guoan emblems. If you were among them at that moment, you could deeply feel the fans’ burning passion and electrifying enthusiasm! They came for football, they came for Guoan! They came for their dreams! And above all, they came for victory!
Posing with cheer banners (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Finally, it was time to enter the stadium. This was not the first time the reporter had accompanied Guoan fans to an away match. Back on October 8, 1995, the reporter sailed with Guoan fans from Tianjin Tanggu to Dalian to watch Guoan’s away game against Dalian, which ended in a 0-0 draw. Although the outcome of this match was still unknown, the feeling of cheering for Guoan in a foreign country was on a completely different level! The jubilant, heart-stirring scene made it impossible to stay detached; you were swept up and became one of them!
Guoan players enter the field (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
The Guoan players walked onto the pitch, and the fans in the Guoan supporters’ section went wild, raising their hands and shouting encouragement. The players came to one side of the stand and bowed collectively to thank the fans who had traveled so far. The response was another deafening roar of cheers. Names of some Guoan players—Xu Yunlong, Yang Zhi, Matić—were repeatedly chanted in unison by the fans.
Cheering for Guoan (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
Although most of these fans’ names are hard to call out, the reporter still wanted to understand their feelings as Guoan supporters. Through brief interviews with one older fan, Zhao Wancai, a taxi driver by trade, and a younger fan, Zhu Yang, who worked in a foreign company, it became clear that watching Guoan football matches had become an indispensable hobby in their lives.
The jubilant, lively scene (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
The many match-going experiences they shared earned the reporter’s deep respect, and he was sincerely moved by their steadfast devotion to Guoan. Although the match ended in defeat for Guoan that evening, the reporter heard very little abuse directed at the players. Instead, when the dejected Guoan players came over to thank the fans after the game, they were met with warm cheers of encouragement. This, perhaps, is the spirit and character of the Guoan travel supporters’ group.
At a large amusement world (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
On May 22, after finishing the trip’s most important mission—cheering for Guoan’s match—the fans continued with a two-day sightseeing tour of Seoul. They visited a large amusement park, the N Seoul Tower, and Seonyudo Ecology Park. They also went to the famous Myeongdong shopping district and Walkerhill, Asia’s first integrated dining, leisure, entertainment, and shopping complex, thoroughly enjoying culinary delights, entertainment, and shopping.
Korean hot pot (Photo: Feng Gangyong)
After successfully completing the entire journey, the Guoan travel supporters’ group embarked on their return trip on the afternoon of May 24. Though the six days were brief, the reporter saw that the fans had already become like a family, getting along harmoniously and happily with one another. Perhaps this is the truth behind the saying, ‘All football fans are one family.’ Upon parting, many fans were already making plans to come again the following year, if possible, to cheer for Guoan once more! The reporter thought: While the outcome of a match is important, what truly matters is having such adorable, selfless fans who love the team without expecting anything in return. They are an invaluable treasure... (Text & photos: Feng Gangyong)
