Bashang Photo Journey: This Autumn’s Most Enchanting Scenery – Miss It and Wait a Year! (Travelogue)

Our homeland is vast and magnificent. Ask any photographer where the most beautiful early autumn spot is, and they’ll tell you: Bashang! This Bashang is the Ulanbutong Grassland in Inner Mongolia. Every year at the end of September, thousands of photography enthusiasts gather here, seeking the most beautiful light and shadow of autumn. Taking advantage of the Mid-Autumn Festival short holiday, a group of ten of us joined the [Golden Autumn: Bashang Counts as Most Enchanting] 6-day in-depth photography tour of Bashang grassland autumn colors and Jinshanling Great Wall, organized by the Yangtze River Delta Photographers’ Circle. On the first two days we encountered rainy weather, which was a bit of a pity, but along the way, the captivating scenery still left a deep impression on us.

Day 1: Shanghai – Beijing – Jinshanling Great Wall

On September 19, 2021, at 07:48, we took the G110 high-speed train from Shanghai Hongqiao Station to Beijing South Station, arriving at 13:32, and thus began our 6-day Bashang photography tour.

After exiting Beijing South Station, we followed our tour leader, Teacher Cai Jiesheng, on foot to the designated boarding point. We boarded the tourist bus “Jin AX0299,” which the whole group of 30 would use throughout the following five days. Then we headed to Jinshanling Great Wall, originally planning to photograph the sunset glow. Around 18:30 we arrived at Jinshanling in Luanping County, Hebei Province. Due to time constraints, the sunset shoot was canceled and rescheduled as a sunrise shoot for the next day. Our local guide (Qiangzi) met us at the Jinshanling Great Wall scenic area, having already bought our tickets. Everyone had to get off the bus for facial recognition, which would facilitate entering the scenic area the next morning to photograph sunrise.

In the square inside the Jinshanling Great Wall scenic area, an intangible cultural heritage performance of “throwing iron flowers” was underway. We all hurried to the bus to get our cameras and capture this rarely seen spectacular sight. “Throwing iron flowers” involves mixing charcoal and pig iron in a small iron cage, which is hung by a rope from the top of a 4-meter-high wooden pole. After igniting it, five people rotate the pole together. The burning charcoal melts the pig iron, and through centrifugal force, the molten iron is flung dozens of meters, creating a rain of fire and sparks in the air due to oxidation – a truly magnificent scene.

Watching the intangible cultural heritage “throwing iron flowers” at the foot of Jinshanling Great Wall, fellow photographers couldn’t help exclaiming: Too beautiful, too stunning! After the shoot, we checked into a farmhouse courtyard near the scenic area.

Day 2: Jinshanling Great Wall – Ulanbutong Grassland

We got up at 4:30, gathered in the downstairs living room at 5:00, and took villagers’ private cars to Jinshanling Great Wall. Because it was raining, about half the group chose not to go, reasoning that you couldn’t shoot the sunrise in the rain. I felt that since we were already at the foot of the Great Wall, no matter the weather, we should go up and take a look. After all, the Great Wall is the pride of every Chinese!

Jinshanling Great Wall, acclaimed as “the Great Wall in the National Anthem.” It is located amidst the steep Yanshan Mountains at the border of Luanping County, Hebei, and Beijing. This section of the Great Wall is the best-preserved and most architecturally exquisite part of the entire Ming Great Wall.

At 5 a.m., braving heavy rain, we walked over 20 minutes and climbed onto the Great Wall, taking in its full grandeur and fulfilling the heroic aspiration that “you are not a true man until you reach the Great Wall”! The most beautiful section of the Great Wall, majestic and awe-inspiring!

After photographing Jinshanling Great Wall, we returned to the farmhouse for breakfast. At 8:30 we boarded the bus for Ulanbutong Grassland. On the way from Jinshanling to Ulanbutong, the guide took us to the No.21 Northern Folk Residence Museum, where we had our first lunch.

The No.21 Northern Folk Residence Museum is in Weichang County, Chengde City, Hebei Province, at the Mulan Autumn Hunting Exhibition Hall. It’s a small scenic spot brimming with local flavor. The museum is not large but has a tavern, specialty shop, exhibition hall, restaurant, and fruit stand – small yet complete. We stayed for two hours, finished lunch, and then hurried off to Bashang. I loved those old, traditional houses.

The drive from Jinshanling to Ulanbutong, due to rain, prohibited tourist buses on the highway, so we traveled entirely on surface roads, a bumpy ride that took nearly nine hours to reach Ulanbutong.

In the evening, the hotel hosted a welcome banquet for us. Warm grassland girls offered us cups of fermented mare’s milk wine brimming with blessings. In the lively atmosphere, we began three days and nights of in-depth autumn color photography on the Bashang grassland.

Day 3: Ulanbutong Grassland (Wucai Mountain, Yangshubei, Grassland Village Scenery, Huagulu Lake, Huagulu Mountain, Aobaotu)

We got up at 4:30 and set off punctually at 5:00. Breakfast had to be eaten on the road — dry rations distributed the day before. Before departure, the guide gave each person two hot steamed buns and one egg. Due to rough roads, the vehicles switched to red jeeps for the next two days, six people to a jeep. We were in jeep No.125. In early autumn on Bashang, it was quite cold in the morning, especially for your two hands holding a camera, stinging with cold.

Wucai Mountain (Five-Color Mountain) lies in Ulanbutong Township, Hexigten Banner, Chifeng, Inner Mongolia, and is one of the main spots within the horse farm area for viewing secondary forest autumn scenery. During these days, Bashang experienced a rain spell rare in years. The sky was overcast early on, with occasional drizzle, so any hope of shooting sunrise was dashed.

Every year from late September to early October, due to light frost, different tree species on the mountain display different colors according to their cold resistance. Wucai Mountain seems to don festive attire: pine green, oak red, apricot purple, birch and poplar yellow and so on — truly “a blaze of red across the mountains, layers of forest dyed in color.”

On the first day of photography in Ulanbutong Grassland, we rode local off-road vehicles the whole day. When it rained, the guide called everyone to get back in the vehicles quickly and headed to the next scenic spot, Yangshubei.

Along the way, the views outside the window were so beautiful. To satisfy everyone’s urge to shoot, the guide would selectively stop. A flock of sheep grazing in the roadside grass became our photographic target.

When we stopped at Yangshubei, the rain had ceased. Everyone eagerly walked into a birch forest.

Yangshubei is a scenic point in Ulanbutong. Here, rolling hills stretch endlessly, and the grassland extends as far as the eye can see. In fact, there aren’t many poplar trees (yangshu) locally; the main species are larch, Mongolian pine, white birch, and spruce. Strolling through the meadows and birches, fully enjoying the fresh air bestowed by nature, the beautiful scenery truly pleased the eyes, and the fine eco-environment nurtured the body. It’s reputed to be an ideal location for photographers.

After shooting Yangshubei, we continued to the next spot.

We stopped to photograph a herd of cattle grazing on a small roadside slope.

The jeep drove on rugged mountain paths that were not originally roads. Continuous rain made the trails muddy. There were no proper roads — the path was pressed out by the wheels of jeeps. The vehicles followed two deep ruts, bouncing all the way, galloping across the vast grassland. You could feel what a true off-road ride is like, shaking you until your insides nearly burst!

A jeep ahead of us got stuck in a mud pit, wheels spinning and unable to get out. All the passengers had to get off, and after repeated adjustments, it finally drove clear.

We arrived at a grassland household. Herders presented us with snow-white hada scarves, and warm grassland girls offered us cups of fermented mare’s milk wine full of blessings.

Then we went to a wild wolf base in the countryside to photograph wolves, with a chance to get up close and personal with them.

We shot a beauty and a wolf.

After that, we returned to the grassland to capture a set of scenes of local herder life.

There was no deliberate staging; everything was spontaneous and cheerful. While many were still waiting for the performance to start, the show was actually drawing to a close.

We boarded the jeep again for the next scenic spot: Huagulu Lake.

This was Huagulu Lake, akin to a small river commonly seen in Jiangnan water towns, showing how precious water is on the grassland.

By the shore of Huagulu Lake came a horseback riding team.

A herder’s self-driven vehicle, navigating the muddy mountain road — something ordinary people probably wouldn’t dare to drive.

Bumping along in the jeep, we reached Huagulutai.

The area around Huagulutai was the main battlefield when Emperor Kangxi fought against Galdan. Historical relics are now covered by vast grasslands, leaving only herds of cattle and sheep spread across the mountains and plains.

We climbed to the highest point to enjoy the breathtaking grassland scenery.

Our last stop was Aobaotu. “Aobao” is a Mongolian transliteration, meaning a heap or pile made of wood, stone, or earth. It originated on the Mongolian Plateau but is not exclusive to it. “Tu” refers to a roughly circular large mound. Aobaotu is within Yuanbaoshan Village, Ulanbutong Sumu.

The Aobaotu scenic area features undulating terrain and well-spaced trees. Because of its relatively high elevation, in the evening, camel herds frequently pass by here, forming a unique spectacle.

The higher ground at Aobaotu allows you to see vast expanses of golden birch forest when photographing autumn landscapes. With good timing and favorable light, you can create stunning images. Finding a distinctive angle also yields great results!

We watched camels trekking across the desert, photographed the grassland sunset and afterglow, and spent an unforgettable day on the grassland during the Mid-Autumn Festival.

Day 4: Ulanbutong Grassland (Houshan, Princess Lake, Panlong Canyon, Horse Splashing, Galloping Horses)

At 5 a.m., we took the bus to Houshan (Rear Mountain) behind Princess Lake, one of Ulanbutong’s nine major sunrise shooting sites, to photograph sunrise and morning mist.

Before dawn, we climbed a small hillock. The cold wind pierced our clothes and numbed our hands, giving us a real taste of the biting cold in early autumn.

As the first morning light appeared, the frosted grassland slowly warmed up. Water vapor began to rise gradually, forming continuous advection fog that wove through the mountains and woods — indescribably beautiful.

After descending from shooting sunrise at Houshan, we took the bus to Princess Lake. Princess Lake is on the Ulanbutong Grassland in Hexigten Banner, Inner Mongolia. At the entrance stands a statue of Princess Lanqi.

Legend has it that the third princess of Emperor Kangxi, Lanqi Gege, was forced to marry Galdan. Passing through the Inner Mongolian grasslands, she wept so bitterly that her tears formed this lake. That little body of water has become a must-visit spot in Ulanbutong. This small lake, beautifully adorned by the white birches on its shore, wildflowers, grassland, sand, and various shrubs, is a favorite among visitors.

Blue sky and white clouds, mountains and colorful forests reflected in the clear lake water — uplifting and intoxicating.

Leaving Princess Lake, we boarded the bus to Panlong Canyon, a famous canyon on the Ulanbutong Grassland. All year round, a winding stream flows through the valley floor, like a coiling dragon lying in the beautiful valley, hence the name “Panlong” (coiling dragon).

Panlong Canyon is a secluded spot that combines grassland views, pristine woods, rivers, lakes, gullies, and valleys. Without any steepness or overwhelming grandeur, it shows a primitive beauty, a unique beauty.

At 3:00 p.m., we arrived at the horse-splashing performance site, a full hour before the 4:00 p.m. show, in order to grab a good vantage point.

Here the water flow was not too fast. Most importantly, there was a powerful backdrop: rolling hills covered with trees that had turned a vast expanse of golden yellow in the autumn season, combined with white splashes kicked up by galloping horses — it was truly a stunning sight.

When thousands of horses galloped past, water splashed everywhere. It was a spectacle of surging beauty, a display of strength, interwoven into a wondrous image of horses rushing through water.

At 4:30 p.m., we moved to the site for shooting “galloping horses.” On the hillside, photography teams were lined up three deep (first row sitting, second row with tripods, third row standing), stretching several hundred meters, with over a thousand spectators.

The herd thundered nearer, accompanied by the roar of hooves and clouds of dust. Under the setting sun, they glowed golden — an extremely stunning scene.

Among the galloping horses, there was even a foal nursing.

Driven by herders, the herd charged down from the hillside, closely resembling a cavalry squadron charging at an enemy in ancient battlefields — a truly magnificent sight.

At 18:10, the sun set, and a severe traffic jam hit the great grassland…

Day 5: Ulanbutong Grassland (Beigou, European-style Scenic Area, Hamaba, Evening Return)

At 5:30 a.m., we rushed to Beigou to photograph the sunrise. Although we didn’t encounter advection fog, the sunrise at Beigou was still refreshing and uplifting — a great place for photography.

Beigou is a long north-south oriented gully. Because it lies north of the former site of the Ulanbutong Hongshan Army Horse Farm headquarters, locals call it Beigou (North Gully). Beigou stretches across the horse farm, extending over ten kilometers.

At the other end of the wooden boardwalk is the European-style Scenic Area, with hillsides covered in white birch trees — very beautiful scenery.

On the grassland, yellowing pasturelands were dotted with haystacks neatly gathered by herders.

This is the Bashang Grassland outdoor filming base; many films and TV dramas are shot here every year.

In the afternoon, we were arranged to shoot Hamaba and Evening Return. Hamaba lies within the “Huamugou National Forest Park.” The waters of Hamaba wind through hilly valleys. On the grassland, this “two mountains flanking a gully” landform is unique and offers a broader view, making it a paradise for photographers.

The area is hilly and uniquely structured. In autumn, the scenery is brilliantly colorful: red leaves all over the mountains blend with the bright yellow birch leaves, creating naturally formed, seamless paintings.

Honestly, this spot didn’t have many distinctive features, but it was worth experiencing the scenery along the hiking trail.

Evening Return is the key photographic subject at Hamaba. In the late afternoon, the crowd of photographers waiting on the hillside was spectacular.

Across the hilltops were stands of white birch; on the slopes were irregular patches of lawn; at the foot, scattered old elms with elegant forms. In the gaps between trees were circular or rectangular sheepfolds and cattle pens enclosed by wooden fences. As dusk approached, herders returned with their flocks. Hundreds of sheep entered the village lanes, and all you could hear was the crisp sound of shutters clicking in unison.

Day 6: Bashang – Beijing – Shanghai

At 5:00 a.m., we checked out and started the return journey from Ulanbutong, Inner Mongolia, to Beijing. All the way, rain kept falling. Because of the rain, the highway was closed to tourist buses, so we traveled entirely on surface roads, a bumpy ride that took nearly nine hours to reach Beijing South Railway Station.

On September 24, at 15:49, we took the G151 high-speed train from Beijing South Station back to Shanghai Hongqiao Station, arriving safely at 22:12, ending the 6-day photography tour.