Exploring a Centuries-Old Town in the Beijing Outskirts: A Gubeikou Town Travelogue

Exploring a Centuries-Old Town in the Beijing Outskirts

--A Gubeikou Town Travelogue

I love traveling, getting close to nature, and savoring cultural relics. Gubeikou has long been a sacred place in my heart. Over twenty years ago, I passed by Gubeikou Station and saw the Wohushan Great Wall looming in the mist, which sparked endless daydreams... Later, I specially invited a good friend to hike the wild Wohushan Great Wall, and we climbed to the highest watchtower. From there, we could gaze upon the undulating peaks and Miyun Reservoir, drinking in the magnificent landscape and losing ourselves in this ancient border town.

Gubeikou Town has a long history and treacherous terrain, earning it the title 'Key to the Capital.' It is located in Miyun County, northeast of Beijing, a place considered the dragon vein of the city. It is a vital transportation artery leading to Northeast China, Inner Mongolia, and the North China Plain—truly the northeastern gateway to Beijing.

Gubeikou is a historic and cultural town centered around a millennium-old military stronghold, a place long contested by strategists. To the east coils Panlong Mountain, to the west crouches Wohu Mountain, and in between flows the surging Chaohe River. With mountains on both sides and a river in the middle, in the cold-weapon era, Gubeikou was a pass so narrow that one man could hold it against ten thousand. An ancient poem describes it: 'Layered peaks pierce the sky east and west, the pass allows but a few riders abreast; Heaven’s design once divided north from south—what does Heaven intend today?'

In the seventh year of the Tianbao era of Northern Qi (556 AD), the Great Wall was first built at Gubeikou. After the establishment of the Ming Dynasty, border defenses were strengthened, and the renowned general Qi Jiguang, famous for resisting Japanese pirates, was ordered to rebuild the Jizhen section of the Great Wall, with Gubeikou as a crucial node. The Gubeikou Great Wall comprises the Wohushan, Panlongshan, Jinshanling, and Simatai sections. This is an unrestored wild Great Wall; through its crumbling ramparts, you can vividly feel both its grandeur and its melancholy. The old town of Gubeikou also boasts numerous historical sites: Yang Linggong Temple, the God of Wealth Temple, the Medicine King Temple, the Niangniang Temple, and the Erlang Temple, among others.

On a sunny autumn day, I chose the Huaimi Line train to begin my exploration of Gubeikou Town. On the 12306 website, I booked a ticket for the Huaimi Line train S501. (If you haven’t pre-booked, you can buy a ticket on the spot at the suburban railway ticket window at Beijing North Railway Station.) Departure from Beijing North at 6:56 a.m., arrival at Gubeikou Station at 9:23 a.m.—a journey of two and a half hours, fare only 12 yuan. For the return trip, I took train S504, leaving Gubeikou Station at 5:20 p.m. and arriving at Beijing North at 7:52 p.m., also 12 yuan. Huaimi Line tickets don’t have assigned seats; you just find any empty seat. On non-holidays, it’s not crowded and there are plenty of seats.

Beijing North Railway Station is at Xizhimen. Metro Lines 2, 4, and 13 all have a Xizhimen stop. There are signs right outside the subway exit; in less than a minute, you’re at the entrance to Beijing North Station. Suburban railways have no waiting hall—you just go straight in and board.

The carriage was clean and tidy, the air fresh, and the Wi-Fi signal was good.

At 9:23 a.m., the train reached the terminus, Gubeikou Station.

Outside the exit, there’s a sign for the shuttle bus. The ride from Gubeikou Train Station to Gubei Water Town takes about twenty minutes; seniors with a card ride free. Gentle reminder: the dedicated shuttle bus only waits 15 minutes, then leaves on time. If you miss it, a taxi to Gubeikou Town costs 20 yuan for one stop, and 50 yuan to Gubei Water Town. The return bus schedule differs between weekdays and holidays.

Gubeikou Town transport and tourism map

Get off at Gubeikou Town Government Station. Enter the old town street through the landscape archway. Walking on the old flagstone road, you feel as if you’ve stepped back into the town’s distant past.

The centuries-old plank bridge, on the main thoroughfare, is constructed from large stone slabs riveted together with cast iron, now polished to a shine. It once saw imperial carriages pass in glory, and later wept under the tread of Japanese tanks. The iron pegs in the stone tell of the wear and tear of time.

After the bridge, follow the ancient street south. At the T-junction, turn left and you’ll see signs pointing to scenic spots.

Beside the sign is a fitness garden where residents sun themselves, exercise, and chat.

The well named by Emperor Kangxi: people used to fight while drawing water, so Kangxi advised covering the well with a large stone slab pierced by three openings, allowing three groups to draw water at once. Later, a rumor spread that water drawn from different holes tasted different. The ancient well is now protected.

Old millstones and grinders by the roadside hint at bygone days.

The streets of the old town are clean and tidy, with residents meticulously sorting their household waste.

Along both sides of the street, you’ll find well-preserved old houses and new ones with grey bricks and tiles.

An old mansion with a screen wall bearing the character for ‘blessing’ at the entrance.

A moon gate inside the residence.

Striking new houses also line the road, showing the quiet transformation of the ancient town.

Continue south along the old street and you reach Yang Linggong Temple.

Yang Linggong Temple was first built in 1025. It faces south, with two courtyards: a front courtyard and a rear one. It has a main gate, side gate, front hall, rear hall, and meditation rooms on the east and west. The entire complex covers about 1,200 square meters and has undergone five repairs. During the early Cultural Revolution, the statues were smashed, and the gate and both halls were torn down. In 1993, it was restored to its original appearance. On the outer wall of the main gate, the words ‘Prestige Shakes the Frontier’ are written; on the east wall, ‘Spirit Fills Mountains and Rivers’—eight huge characters, each a square meter in size, powerful and majestic, perfectly complementing the ancient temple.

Yang Jiye and the Yang family have always held a lofty place in people’s hearts. Their whole family was loyal and brave, national heroes who fought against foreign invaders. Every year on the 14th day of the ninth lunar month, Yang Linggong’s birthday, locals hold a three-day temple fair, with opera, yangge dance, and stalls. People come from a hundred li around, making it wonderfully lively.

The main gate of Yang Linggong Temple

Yang Linggong Temple is not large, but it is exquisite, simple, and dignified. It has two courtyards, with two main halls—front and rear. The front hall enshrines Yang Linggong and his eight sons. A plaque reading ‘Truly Invincible’ hangs above, in the strong calligraphy of General Feng Yuxiang. On the pillars are two interesting couplets. One reads: ‘Pan has no burial place to this day; the Yangs have an ancestral temple from ancient times.’ The other: ‘Why take up a brush to express indignation? The world’s fairness will speak for itself.’

In the center of the front hall is a statue of Yang Linggong, about two meters tall, seated on a one-meter-high brick platform. He wears armor and a helmet, with kind eyes and a wide mouth, a gray beard, and a commanding, battle-ready air. In front of him is a miniature two-foot clay figure of Yang Linggong, and below the niche stand two fully armed warriors, one holding a long-handled broadsword, the other a military manual, standing solemnly.

His eight sons are seated: the first, third, fifth, and seventh on his lower left, the second, fourth, sixth, and eighth on his lower right—all spirited and imposing. In front of the main hall, a warhorse and a groom are sculpted, completing the martial atmosphere that inspires reverence.

On the outer walls of the main hall, murals depict Meng Liang and Jiao Zan, two famously fierce generals from the Yang family. The well-known storytelling performance ‘The Generals of the Yang Family’ and the beloved drama ‘Meng Liang Steals the Bones at Haotian Pagoda’ recount the story of Meng Liang’s heroic deeds. They tell how Yang Linggong and his son Yang Qilang died in the Liao kingdom, their bones hung on Haotian Pagoda and shot at daily. Their spirits appeared in a dream to Yang Liulang. Yang Liulang and Meng Liang retrieved the bones from the pagoda. On the way back, they met Yang Wulang at Mount Wutai, and together they killed the pursuing Liao general Han Yanshou, repelled the Liao troops, and returned victorious—a thrilling tale.

The rear hall enshrines She Taijun and the female generals of the Yang family. A couplet on the pillars reads: ‘Loyal and devoted, the Yang family warriors astound heaven and earth; with righteous hearts, the heroines of the household turn the universe around.’

In the center of the rear hall stands the dignified statue of She Taijun, flanked by lifelike figures of the Eighth Sister, Ninth Sister, Mu Guiying, Yang Paifeng, and other female warriors.

Murals on the inner walls tell stories of the Yang family: Mu Guiying’s great battle at Hongzhou, the breaking of the Heavenly Gate Formation, and other vivid episodes.

Not far south of Yang Linggong Temple, you’ll see a screen wall with a ‘You Are Here’ tourist map.

The God of Wealth Temple, built in the first year of the Daoguang reign of the Qing Dynasty (1821), enshrines Bi Gan, Fan Li, and Guan Yu. During the Cultural Revolution, it was used as a warehouse for the production brigade, which preserved its original state; the old artifacts are extremely rare and have now been restored.

The Medicine King Temple, Guandi Temple, and Guanyin Pavilion were built together on a high platform, commonly called ‘two steps, three temples.’ The Medicine King Temple is three bays wide and two bays deep, dating from the Ming Dynasty, a place to pray for health. The Guandi Temple was built alongside it, similar in size and layout, intended to protect the fortress. The Guanyin Bodhisattva Temple is on the steps. On the other side of the steps is the Dragon King Temple, for favorable weather. Inside the temple compound is a stage, still an original relic. Outside the stage is a glazed screen wall.

From left to right: the glazed screen wall (back), the stage at the gate of Guandi Temple, and the gate of the Medicine King Temple.

The memorial arch inside the gate.

Directly ahead is Guandi Temple; to the right is the Medicine King Temple.

Guanyin Bodhisattva Temple. (Inside the temple, if you look up, you can see the ancient city wall covered with yellow moss—a rare sight. Old city walls usually have black stains from rain and frost, but yellow moss adds a sense of antiquity. Look closely, and you’ll see many bullet holes on the wall, evidence of Japanese bullets.)

The stage at the gate of Guandi Temple (interior view).

An information board on the east wall inside the gate of Guandi Temple.

The ‘glazed screen wall’ in front of the stage. On the screen wall, between two dragons, is a spider spirit. The moisture on its navel was used to forecast weather: dry—no rain; tiny water droplets—overcast; large drops—rain.

Every year on Yang Linggong’s birthday, the old town holds a temple fair. Here, residents watch a performance on the ancient stage.

The play performed is ‘Yang Bajie Goes on a Spring Outing.’ It tells how the Song emperor, escorted by Lord Bao, goes out to enjoy the spring scenery and encounters Yang Bajie and Yang Jiumei from the Tianbo Yang mansion, also out enjoying spring. The emperor is captivated by Bajie’s beauty and, upon returning to court, sends Lord Bao with an imperial decree to propose marriage. She Taijun receives the decree and ‘curses the foolish ruler inwardly… lowers her head, and devises a plan, asking for a betrothal gift list that cannot be found.’ It’s a witty, humorous, and beloved program, adored by the people for many years, never tiring of hearing it.

South of the Medicine King Temple gate is the North Gate Tower of Gubeikou Town.

Outside the North Gate, the plaque reads ‘Ancient Road to a Mighty Pass.’

Ancient cannons on the gate tower.

Overlooking the ‘Two Steps, Three Temples’ from the North Gate Tower.

From the North Gate Tower, the view stretches over Gubeikou Town, Chaohe River, and the watchtower atop Wohushan Great Wall (the highest peak far away).

Westward along the wall from the North Gate Tower are the remains of the Northern Qi Great Wall, on which the Ming Great Wall was built. This section is severely weathered and damaged; few of the original outer bricks remain.

Continue westward along the Northern Qi Great Wall ruins (this is a wild section, with simple dirt and stone paths on the ramparts; be careful). After about twenty minutes, you’ll reach the first watchtower (which has undergone emergency restoration). Savor the experience of climbing a wild Great Wall. Below is a view of the first and second watchtowers in the distance.

Exiting the North Gate and walking south a short way leads to the Ancient Imperial Way.

Ticket information sign: a combined ticket for the old town sights costs 20 yuan per person; the Panlongshan Great Wall costs 25 yuan per person.

Guesthouses and restaurants along the Ancient Imperial Way.

The scenic river channel beside the Ancient Imperial Way.

The Zhao Family Mansion, a centuries-old dwelling beside the Ancient Imperial Way, built in the traditional Beijing courtyard style.

An introduction to the Zhao Family Mansion.

The Hongxi (grand happiness) screen wall that greets you upon entering.

The north-facing main house in the courtyard.

A small gate between the south wing and the west wing leads to an outside vegetable garden.

Several guest rooms at the back.

The Old Village History and Culture Museum by the Ancient Imperial Way.

Exhibits inside the museum.

Ms. Lian Wei (born Du Jianru), mother of the famous performing artist and movie star Zhang Ruifang, was a native of Gubeikou Town and a veteran revolutionary.

In the town’s Cultural Courtyard (also called the Princess Mansion), a temple fair program is being rehearsed. Here’s the lead dancer.

Enthusiastic visitors couldn’t resist donning performance props and joined the lead dancer in a segment of ‘Running Donkey.’

Erlang Temple was built in the Ming Dynasty, with a history spanning over 600 years. It faces south, covers 97.5 square meters, is five bays wide and two bays deep, and enshrines the Martial Sage Guan Gong, the God Erlang Shen, and Guanyin Bodhisattva. Guan Gong embodies loyalty, filial piety, chastity, and righteousness; Erlang Shen is majestic and mighty; Guanyin Bodhisattva is infinitely compassionate, delivering all beings from suffering. It’s a place where believers and common folk from a hundred li around pray for peace and safety.

In the center of the temple is the statue of Guan Gong; in the left side hall, Erlang Shen; in the right side hall, Guanyin Bodhisattva.

The seated statue of Guan Gong.

South of Erlang Temple, a chain bridge spans the scenic river channel. Behind the temple, on the hill, are remnants of the Great Wall and a ruined watchtower.

Beside the chain bridge is a nearly silted-up water gate in the Great Wall, its plaque reading ‘Ancient Pass.’

From Erlang Temple, it’s about a one-hour walk to Panlongshan Great Wall.

Leaving Erlang Temple, I noticed a sign nearby. Feeling that the old town was developing too fast, I quickly downloaded an app and tried to follow the instructions, but I couldn't get it to work. When I asked residents, they didn’t know either. Oh well! I’d been fooled.

About twenty minutes outside the old town, you arrive at the Seven Warriors Monument. Paying homage at this martyrs’ site, I bowed three times.

Reading the summary of their deeds.

After about an hour’s walk, passing Erzhai, you reach the entrance to Panlongshan Great Wall scenic area.

Panlongshan Great Wall stretches 5 kilometers, winding through rugged mountains and deep ravines. From a distance, it looks like a giant dragon coiling along the ridges. Since this section hasn’t been extensively restored, it feels ancient and desolate, yet it retains its complete historical character. The highlights are the General Tower and the 24-Eye Tower. The General Tower is the highest point of Panlongshan Great Wall; with 22 door openings and kept in its original state, it looks majestic. This was a command post, fiercely contested in battle. The 24-Eye Tower is the easternmost watchtower on Panlongshan, echoing the General Tower. It has three stories; the first and second stories each have three arrow windows on all four sides, and the top story has battlements around it. With a total of 24 observation ports, it’s a rare and very precious architectural feature in Great Wall history. Standing on this ancient wall and gazing into the distance, the scenery is spectacular and glorious, filling you with a sense of historical vicissitude.

Tourist Guide Map of Panlongshan Great Wall Cultural Scenic Area

Sign for the nearest watchtower to the entrance. It's suggested to go to General Tower first—a climb of about twenty minutes—then head east to Haowang Tower, and finally to the 24-Eye Tower. The whole tour takes about three hours.

The wooden boardwalk up the mountain extends all the way to the trailhead, making the ascent effortless.

Beside the boardwalk, a set of sculptures depicts the process of building the Great Wall: moulding bricks, firing them, inspecting the finished products, carrying bricks to the construction site, as well as quarrying and transporting stone blocks.

Panlongshan Great Wall watchtower—Haowang Tower.

The watchtower has undergone emergency structural reinforcement.

Interior of the watchtower.

The Great Wall leading toward the 24-Eye Tower section has collapsed in parts due to heavy rainfall this year (emergency repairs are underway), posing significant safety hazards, and access has been prohibited.