A Three-Day, Two-Night Immersive Journey: Tracing Hutong Memories and Listening to the Voice of Beijing
What comes to mind when you think of hutongs? For me, it’s definitely memories of old Beijing. Even though today’s Beijing is modern and fashionable, with trends weaving through it, the hutongs still hold a meaning and memory for the city that nothing else can replace. Maybe it’s because I spent part of my childhood in a hutong, but my love for them runs deep in my heart. The cries of street vendors and the playful laughter of children—these are the most down-to-earth sounds of hutong life, and the most authentic sounds of old Beijing.
If you like this kind of route and want to experience the oldest parts of Beijing, then you must not miss the itinerary that follows. Perhaps you could use it as a reference and let me, a native Beijinger, guide you to listen to the city.
Pre-trip route design:
Day 1: Nanluoguxiang + Dongmianhua Hutong + Nanchizi Art Museum;
Day 2: Eighteen Half Hutongs + hidden mosque + Tongzhou Night Market;
Day 3: Qianmen Street + Yangmeizhu Xiejie hutong cluster + Panjiayuan Antique Market
What do you all think of the overall feel of this route? Actually, on the first day, Nanluoguxiang is just a pass-through. If you want to explore it in depth, it would probably take you a full day. Nanluoguxiang isn’t purely commercial either—there are many former residences of notable figures, and you could hire a professional guide for explanations. We’ll just take a brief look, because the highlight is a hutong most visitors overlook: Dongmianhua Hutong.
Wander through Nanluoguxiang to find the artsy Dongmianhua Hutong;
When I mention Dongmianhua Hutong, I’m sure you may find it unfamiliar. Yes, this is a hutong that gets overlooked. It may not be as famous, but it is one of Beijing’s most essential hutongs, and also the one richest in artistic atmosphere. Dongmianhua Hutong is located off Andingmen Inner Street in Beijing’s Dongcheng District. Gazing down along its barrier, you can take in the views at both ends of the alley.
At first glance, this hutong looks much like any other, but the campus of The Central Academy of Drama is here, instantly elevating the artistic vibe. And when you step into courtyard No. 15, you’ll discover just how unique it is. This was originally part of the residence of Fengshan, a prominent figure in the late Qing dynasty. Fengshan enjoyed the favor of the Empress Dowager Cixi. He had studied abroad, visiting Europe to observe the new-style armies of Germany and Austria, and developed a particular fondness for Western culture. So he built this Western-style archway within his old home. This design fundamentally sets it apart from other hutongs; it’s hard to imagine such a hidden world lies inside.
Even though the trees have shed their leaves in winter and the flowers are not in bloom, the archway still exudes an artistic aura, with the statues on each side featuring different designs. It’s even more beautiful here in summer. But for now, in the quiet of winter, you can admire the charm of these reliefs. Different families live here, and the thoughtful details decorating each doorway instantly made me feel: this is the hutong memory I’ve been searching for.
👏 Special tips:
Free admission, no tickets needed. People still live here, so be careful to keep your voice down after entering so as not to disturb the residents.
📇 Name: Dongmianhua Hutong
🚥 Address: Dongmianhua Hutong, Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng District, Beijing
🚇 Transportation: Metro Line 6 or Line 8, Nanluoguxiang Station
You can spend a good long time exploring this hutong. Even though it had rained the day I visited, it didn’t dampen my enthusiasm at all. I met up with a friend and we strolled leisurely through the alley. Catching a whiff of coffee, we looked up and were intrigued by a few playful words: “Courtyard for Shaking Off Singlehood.” It turned out a little coffee shop was tucked away in a side alley. The name “A Taste of Childhood” also had a nostalgic feel, so we went in to have a seat.
The shop is filled with nostalgic objects, things from childhood memories: cassette players, typewriters, telephones. This blend gives the place a vintage and nostalgic flavor. They also serve cakes and various teas and drinks to suit different tastes—perfect warming comfort after the rain.
Order a cup of coffee ☕️ or another favorite drink to warm the hutong winter. The equipment inside is all vintage, so it’s no wonder it evokes childhood memories and emotions. Maybe this is a trace of recovering your childhood. Chatting with friends here or just daydreaming marks the beginning of a lovely stretch of time.
📇 Shop name: Mao Jiu Café · Courtyard for Shaking Off Singlehood
🕐 Opening hours: 10:30–18:00
🚏 Address: No. 19 Dongmianhua Hutong, Nanluoguxiang, Beijing
🚇 Transportation: 740-meter walk from Exit F (Northeast) of Nanluoguxiang Station, Metro Line 6/8
Have you ever imagined that you could experience the beauty of a Jiangnan water town right inside Beijing, and right near the Forbidden City and Tiananmen? A place like this truly shatters your image of Beijing.
Stepping inside, you indeed feel a water-town atmosphere wash over you. The area is actually not big. There’s currently an exhibition you can visit, featuring ink paintings by Tai Xiangzhou, where you can discover the “secrets” about dragons. After viewing, you can rest in the courtyard. Even just sitting quietly, lost in thought, is deeply pleasant.
🎨 The museum’s exhibition hall covers 1,500 square meters. The main hall has two floors and inherits the architectural features of traditional Chinese aesthetics. The light and shadows playing on the wall lattices are a work of art in themselves, and you can soak up the artistic atmosphere with your children. A full circuit takes about two hours. If you want to enjoy Jiangnan water-town charm without leaving Beijing, easily accessible by public transport, this is definitely the best choice.
⚠️ Important notes:
1. Special attire, including Hanfu and such, is not permitted; ordinary daily clothing is fine.
2. Large photography equipment, tripods, flash units, etc., are not allowed. I brought a very small tripod and had a hard time getting permission to use it on the condition that I wouldn’t disturb others.
3. Very important:
👀 Book in advance! Book in advance! Book in advance!
Staff said that to ensure the visitor experience, they strictly limit the number of people.
4. Those with small children, note: children under 1.2 meters in height are not allowed.
🕐 Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday, closed on Mondays
10:30–18:00
📇 Address: Inside Hutong No. 66, Nanchizi Street, Dongcheng District, Beijing
🚇 Transportation: 750-meter walk from Exit B, Tian’anmen East Station, Metro Line 1
The day’s itinerary is not rushed at all. You can experience the memory of old Beijing hutongs and also get to know Beijing anew by feeling the scenes of a Jiangnan water town—the most classic combination of northern and southern imagery. This is a fresh way to play, rejecting cookie-cutter experiences and searching for Beijing’s own memories and scenes.
Hidden within the Beijing Municipal Administrative Center are the Eighteen Half Hutongs, and hidden within the Eighteen Half Hutongs is a mosque.
My hometown is in Tongzhou District, Beijing—now the Beijing Municipal Administrative Center. Here there are ancient temples with timeless charm, towns with artistic flavors, streets full of ancient ambiance, and tender, romantic scenes. This time we walk into the Eighteen Half Hutongs to experience a different side of the administrative center and feel a more historical Beijing.
When mentioning the old city of Tongzhou, elders often talk fondly about the “Eighteen Half Hutongs.” This refers to the eighteen half-hutongs where the Hui ethnic community lived, crisscrossing horizontally and vertically, once an important part of the old Tongzhou city. The Eighteen Half Hutongs? Why “half”? And is there really a Bai Jiangjun Hutong—did a general actually live there? Historically, quite a few notable people lived in the Eighteen Half Hutongs, and Bai Jiangjun Hutong has always puzzled people: did a general really live here? The answer is yes: Bai Rong, a Tongzhou native of the Qing Dynasty, was General Bai. “A model for the nation, a gentleman of ancient virtue, his public heart was like stone, his public name never erodes” was a praise of Bai Rong by the Qing scholar Qi Junzao.
Apart from Bai Rong, another general lived on Bai Jiangjun Hutong—the patriotic general Feng Yuxiang. After Feng Yuxiang married Li Dequan, they lived on Bai Jiangjun Hutong. The Eighteen Half Hutongs area was also home to two other notable figures: Ma Jinglun, a Ming Dynasty supervising censor, and Li Zhi, an outstanding progressive thinker and writer of the Ming Dynasty.
Address: South Street, Tongzhou, Beijing
Transportation: You can park your car nearby and walk in; parking spaces in the hutongs are quite limited.
Today’s hutongs are not only beautiful but also carry deeper cultural heritage. The “wall museums” are an original form, where you can see various old objects displayed in showcases, many from childhood days. There are also displays of exquisite handicrafts. Even some Winter Olympics sports are featured here, keeping up with the times—a perfect blend of tradition and modernity. If you want to see a different kind of hutong, you must come here.
In the hutong, you can not only experience nostalgia, but also find a hidden mosque. From a distance, a green-domed building caught my eye. I hadn’t noticed it before; walking down the alley, I discovered it was a mosque 🕌, and a prayer service was about to begin inside.
🛕 The mosque has separate prayer areas for men and women, distributed on the left and right sides. The men’s prayer hall is clearly grander, while the women’s looks simpler. Yet when the call to prayer sounded, it felt like a journey through time, almost as if I had been transported to some places in Qinghai or Tibet. The sunshine was perfect, warming my body. Most residents here are Hui people, and they still uphold their traditions and customs.
⚠️ Visiting tips:
Remember to keep quiet here, no loud noise, and do not disturb the worshippers. Everyone is allowed to enter; there are no special restrictions.
🕐 Opening hours: 08:00–20:00
💰 Admission: Free
📇 Address: No. 1 Huimin Hutong, Tongzhou District, Beijing
🚗 Transportation: Drive and navigate to South Street, or Xiaolou Restaurant.
After visiting, you can eat at Xiaolou Restaurant, which also has a long history. Xiaolou is a famous century-old Hui restaurant; the original name was “Yihexuan,” founded in the 26th year of the Guangxu reign, 1900. For Tongzhou locals, it has accompanied generations as they grew up. Xiaolou Restaurant is Tongzhou’s most iconic, with its “Xiaolou Three Jiaos” (crispy-fried catfish, crispy-fried pork slices, crispy-fried gezhai) as representative dishes with a long history. Xianyuan fermented bean curd speaks of traces of time, and every dish has a different story behind it…
My grandfather often talked about Xiaolou, because it’s not just a place to eat; it’s also a memory from his childhood. Now grown up, with my own children, I continue to bring them here. As you all know, I’ve traveled with my child to many places and many countries. This time, I want to take you to my hometown and introduce its cuisine. Every dish is a legacy of history, each with a different story.
Besides the Xiaolou Three Jiaos, other iconic foods include gezhi boxes—most of my family can make them, and they’re a must-have dish for Chinese New Year’s Eve dinner. Also, braised pork slices, rich but not greasy—you must try them personally to feel their deliciousness and happiness.
This arrangement can be said to offer the ultimate experience of old Beijing. Come evening, you can also head to the Tongzhou night market to sample different snacks and local delicacies. The pandemic has thrown many people’s lives into disarray. Beijing’s winter is even colder, and without the summer street-side barbecues, something always feels missing.
🛍 I stumbled upon a local night market in Tongzhou by chance and hurried there with my family just to see what it was like. The night market isn’t big, located near the subway station, and commuters and nearby residents usually come here to eat. We had already had dinner when we arrived, and my family said they didn’t have room to eat more; otherwise, we definitely would have tried some things.
🥯 A rich variety of snacks and delicacies:
Mao eggs (balut)—a snack common in my childhood, but I dare not eat them. You can choose ones without feathers. There’s also famous Changsha stinky tofu, various malatang, French fries 🍟, and similar snacks.
🍛 Northeastern-style big meals are eye-catching here, with fish 🐟 smelling delicious, and even various small hot pots. There are special tents, so no need to worry about the cold.
My favorite has to be the tanghulu (candied hawthorn skewers)—the price is so affordable, with various fruits 🍉 and some daily essentials. Though the street isn’t big, as the saying goes, “a sparrow may be small but it has all the vital organs.” If you want to experience this, why not come and take a look!
🕐 Usual hours: It starts when it gets dark around evening and goes until about 10 p.m.
🚗 Transportation: Drive and navigate to Zhangjiawan Xinhua Kindergarten, and you’ll find it.
A day’s itinerary like this won’t be tiring, yet you get to experience the combination of ancient and modern Beijing—this unconventional approach brings a lot of joy and happiness. You can explore off-the-beaten-path routes and also visit a night market to enjoy various classic snacks. Isn’t that rich and varied?
Continuing our immersive experience the next day—Beijing has many hutongs. How can you experience the thickest atmosphere of everyday life? Then you must not miss the Yangmeizhu Xiejie hutong cluster. Why call it a cluster? Because at the edges of this one hutong are different hutongs, one after another.
On the way there, you’ll pass Qianmen Street. Speaking of Qianmen Street, it also has a long history. At Qianmen Street, listen to the most nostalgic sound of old Beijing 🔊: the clanging streetcar. I can’t remember the last time I came to Qianmen Street. Now it’s no longer how I remembered it; while keeping its old Beijing character, it has acquired a mix of trendiness and retro vibes. The sunshine was just right, and for a dazed moment, I felt like I was looking at a scene abroad.
🚉 From the distance came that remembered sound—the streetcar passed before my eyes, instantly pulling my thoughts back. Tanghulu, sugar paintings, those childhood images flooded back. Though the street has fewer hawking calls than before, it has gained a sense of quietude.
⛅️ Under the blue sky and white clouds, strolling along the straight street always brings a stirring feeling. People in twos and threes, leisurely and carefree. Roadside statues 🗿 depict memories of Beijing. You can find all those familiar delicacies here, along with various pastries 🥧. If you want to taste the flavors of Beijing, start right here.
📇 Address: Qianmen Street, Xicheng District, Beijing
🕐 Open: All day
💰 Admission: Free
🚇 Transportation: Metro Line 7, Zhushikou Station, Exit A, right there when you exit.
There are plenty of shops on both sides of Qianmen Street, including various food shops, pastry stores—all representing the flavor and scenes of Beijing. You can choose to step in and sample or buy some souvenirs. The street is very clean and tidy, incredibly beautiful under the blue sky and white clouds. You can also choose to ride the clanging streetcar to experience Beijing of that era, as if traveling through time. Mentioning this streetcar always prompts the elders at home to tell many stories from their childhood. While visiting Qianmen Street, you’ll also see the famous Dashilan—do step inside to take a look. There are art exhibitions and sculptures, which can both cultivate your mind and let you experience a different pedestrian street.
Crossing through from Qianmen Street, you’ll see the hutong cluster. In fact, every alley in the hutong area is very interesting, full of the thickest lived-in atmosphere. Yangmeizhu Xiejie is a street in Beijing, located southwest of Qianmen, about half a kilometer west from the west entrance of Dashilan Street, stretching from Meishi Street in the east to Yanshou Street in the west. In the Ming Dynasty, it was called “Slanting Street,” because its direction slants from northeast to southwest, hence the name. Yangmeizhu Xiejie was once a cultural street; Liang Shizheng, a Grand Secretary of the Dongge during the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty, and modern writer Shen Congwen both lived on this street.
👉 Visiting tips:
There are many different hutongs nearby; pick any one and you’ll get a different feeling. The lived-in atmosphere of the hutongs is stronger, forming a sharp contrast with the tall buildings around, giving a very different sensation.
✍️ You can also check out some representative buildings right in the hutongs, though some have changed quite a bit. If you get tired of walking, don’t worry—there are many atmospheric cafés ☕️ hidden in the hutongs, very Instagrammable and blending coolly with the surroundings. This is why I love hutongs: they always bring us different feelings.
🥯 Walking along, you’ll find that hutong life is another world compared to the outside. There’s a sense of “a sparrow may be small but it has all the vital organs.” Many roadside stalls in the hutongs even offer some foods that have disappeared from the main streets. Egg-filled pancakes are one of my favorites.
📷 Such scenes always remind me of the flavors of my childhood. Sometimes, even without buying anything, you can still feel the happiness. Whether it’s proper meals, snacks, a variety of fruits, or cooked foods, you can find any kind of food right outside your doorstep. With all the coffee ☕️ shops around, such a scene is hard to find in the city.
🚏 Location: Just cut through from Qianmen Street and walk straight there; it’s very easy to find.
🚇 Transportation: Metro Line 7, Zhushikou Station, Exit A.
Spent the whole afternoon wandering with friends but didn’t feel tired at all, because the hutongs have this charm—they always make us feel their unique allure. Seemingly ordinary yet hiding infinite splendor and surprises. Inside the hutongs, there are also all kinds of distinctive cafés and restaurants, so you needn’t worry about dining. Afternoon tea options are plentiful, and they offer the unique hutong scenery and atmosphere.
We chose a very chic, Instagram-style café hidden in a hutong. The lived-in buzz of the surrounding hutongs was strong, giving a vibe of modern and historical fusion. We strolled along the hutong to get there and never felt bored, because the environment is very comfortable. Walking into the café, you can smell the aroma of coffee. You can opt for a piece of cake 🍰 to go with it. Head up to the second floor, choose a spot by the window to bask in the sun, or sit in the courtyard outside and watch hutong life go by. The weather was clear, and under the blue sky and white clouds, the hutong felt even more cozy. Such a leisurely afternoon tea is a rare treat. The café’s Instagram style combined with vintage charm gives different feelings to different people. The old Beijing hutongs can compose their own kind of scenery.
📇 Shop name: Qian San Men
🕐 Opening hours: 10:00–19:00
💰 Price: Typical café prices, very reasonable.
🚏 Address: No. 20 Tiaozhou Hutong, right next to Yangmeizhu Xiejie
🚇 Transportation: Take Metro Line 7, get off at Zhushikou Exit A, and walk.
Here, you can enjoy the sun-bathed hours, and chat in the Instagram-style seats. One café with two different styles—I think that’s a landscape exclusive to the hutongs. The down-to-earth bustle paired with modern Instagram aesthetic has no discordance; instead, it adds a touch of refined charm. Besides this, there are many other unique restaurants and guesthouses. If you want a more immersive experience, consider staying overnight in the hutong—the evening liveliness or the tranquility inside a shop are all different sounds of the hutongs, different facets of Beijing.
I wonder if you all like the “Ghost Blows Out the Light” series of books or film adaptations. For the final stretch, you might want to browse Panjiayuan Antique Market, which presents yet another face of Beijing. I really like “Ghost Blows Out the Light” and “The Lost Tomb.” The Panjiayuan that Hu Bayi and Wang Pangzi always mention is right here; Da Jinya’s shop is here too, so I came with the feeling of treasure hunting.
👉 After several rounds, I found that this is also a wholesale market of sorts, and a mixed bag. To find something you truly want, you not only need to pick carefully but also have to keep your eyes peeled, or you might end up buying a fake. I like the silver jewelry here, though it’s not cheap—pieces running into four figures are common. It just depends on how you bargain.
Visiting tips:
Panjiayuan Antique Market is located southwest of Panjiayuan Bridge on the South Third Ring Road in Beijing, covering an area of 48,500 square meters. The market is divided into six sections: a ground-stall area, an antique building area, a classical furniture area, a modern collection area, a stone carving area, and a dining service area.
🚦 Transportation guide:
About 100 meters west from the western end is Panjiayuan Antique Market. Or you can go from the Machinery Bureau Party School, then head south for one traffic light, go east for 200 meters to get there.
🚋 Bus: 34, 36, 51, 99, 674, 300, get off at Huawei Xili or Panjiayuan stop.
🚇 Metro: Take Line 10, get off at Panjiayuan Station, Exit B, walk west about 100 meters, and you’ll see it on your left.
An itinerary like this not only shows you Beijing’s memories and images, but also lets you feel its most ancient side and its most modern designs. Without the well-known major attractions, you can still experience the authentic old Beijing—the sweetness of tanghulu and sugar paintings on your tongue, tasting old Beijing’s sweetness. The sunlight in the hutongs tells Beijing’s history, while culturally and historically rich streets and markets add different pictures of Beijing. If you want to trace hutong memories and hear the distinctive voice of Beijing, you absolutely must not miss this kind of itinerary. Next time you’re in Beijing, remember to take a walk and personally experience the unique hutong culture of old Beijing.
