Strolling Through Taoranting

On a sunny winter day, I strolled through Taoranting Park, enjoying a leisurely time.

Taoranting Park lies in Xicheng District, Beijing, and is a national AAAA tourist attraction. Built in 1952, it integrates classical architecture and modern garden design, highlighting the pavilion culture of the Chinese nation. The park covers 59 hectares, including 17 hectares of water. Within the park is Cibei Temple (a Beijing City protected cultural relic), an ancient temple from the Yuan Dynasty. In the 34th year of the Kangxi reign (1695), Jiang Zao, an official from the Ministry of Works who supervised the kilns, built a pavilion inside Cibei Temple and took inspiration from Tang poet Bai Juyi's verse "When chrysanthemums bloom and homebrew matures, together we'll drink and be carefree" to name it "Taoran" (meaning carefree contentment). It became a celebrated Qing Dynasty pavilion, one of China's four famous pavilions, and the park's name derives from it. At the park's center is a ring-shaped lake with a central island, where Taoran Pavilion and Cibei Temple are located. Three bridges divide the lake into East Lake, West Lake, and South Lake. In summer, you can row boats on the water; in winter, an artificial ice rink is set up for skating, snow tubing, and more.

The park features distinct scenic areas: Shengchunshanfang, Huaxia Mingting (Famous Chinese Pavilions), Taoran Jiajing, Tanying Liujin, and a children's play area.

Opening hours: daily 06:00–21:00. Admission: 2 yuan per person. Accessible by Metro Line 4 and bus.

Taoranting Park East Gate

Taoranting Park guide map

Morning exercisers in the park

In the Tanying Liujin scenic area, bleak winter sees few visitors.

Fallen leaves, trees, covered walkways, and strollers bring a touch of life and liveliness.

Forest walkways paved with grey tiles exude an ancient charm.

Winding corridors and scattered ornamental stones create an unhurried, soothing atmosphere — winter here is never short of beauty.

The park always brims with activity and happiness.

The Jade Rainbow Bridge linking to the central island.

Kite flyers on Jade Rainbow Bridge, tirelessly enjoying themselves.

Magpie mini-kite.

Panda mini-kite.

Sparrow hawk mini-kite.

Crossing Jade Rainbow Bridge brings you to the island and the Taoran Jiajing area.

Aiwan Pavilion is situated on Yuelu Mountain in Changsha, Hunan Province. Originally built in the 57th year of the Qianlong reign (1792) by Luo Dian, head of Yuelu Academy, it was later renamed after Du Mu's poem "Mountain Travel", evoking "Stopping to admire the maple grove at dusk, leaves frost-redder than spring flowers." The pavilion has weathered changes; in 1952 Hunan University renovated it, and its president Li Da wrote to Chairman Mao Zedong, who inscribed the plaque "Aiwan Pavilion". Taoranting Park built this replica in 1986.

Xiehu Bridge has two archways at its ends: "Jiajing" and "Taoran". These were originally on East and West Chang'an Avenue, with wooden structures of three bays, four columns, and three roofs. The pillars were all towering (sky-reaching) style, each flanked by diagonal supports. Both archways bore "Chang'an Avenue" plaques. In the early 1950s, the Beijing municipal government planned to remove them. To preserve them, Premier Zhou Enlai personally ordered them relocated to Taoranting Park. They were demolished during the Cultural Revolution but later restored to their original form, though the plaques were changed to "Jiajing" and "Taoran".

Statues of the early prominent revolutionary activist Gao Junyu and his girlfriend Shi Pingmei. Their graves are also on the island. The love story of Gao Junyu and Shi Pingmei is widely known, often compared to Liang Shanbo and Zhu Yingtai of the Republican era; their tombs are called the "Gao-Shi Tomb".

Fengyu Tongzhou (Shared Storm) Pavilion was modeled after the Shadi Pavilion in Anhui. In 1991, Anhui suffered catastrophic floods; to thank the nation for its selfless donations, a replica of Shadi Pavilion was built in Taoranting Park, named "Fengyu Tongzhou" — a tribute to the national spirit of mutual aid in times of trouble. The original Shadi Pavilion was built under the Kangxi reign and features a unique three-story hollow structure with a surrounding veranda and upturned eaves; iron horse bells hang from its octagonal corners, chiming in the wind. Viewed from any angle, each plane is octagonal, hence also called "Octagonal Pavilion".

Cibei Temple stands at the southwest corner of the island. Built in the Yuan Dynasty and also known as Guanyin Temple, it has over 700 years of history. Its main gate faces east, and its layout is precise and dignified. The three-bay open hall on the west side is Taoran Pavilion, constructed in the 34th year of Kangxi (1695) by Jiang Zao, who named it "Taoran" from Bai Juyi's line "When chrysanthemums bloom and homebrew matures, together we'll drink and be carefree." Cibei Temple covers 2,700 square meters, with buildings totaling over 800 square meters. Its main structures include the gate, Guanyin Hall, Zhunti Hall, Wenchang Pavilion, Taoran Pavilion, South Hall, West Hall, and North Hall. Surviving ancient relics include stone pillars from the Liao and Jin dynasties, and engraved steles like "Ode to Taoran Pavilion", "Record of Taoran Pavilion", the "Taoran" plaque, and the "Taoran Pavilion Gathering" poem.

East side of Cibei Temple on the high terrace.

Old locust tree in front of Cibei Temple's gate

A hundred years ago, Comrade Mao Zedong (fourth from left) posed under this locust tree with colleagues.

Cibei Temple gate.

Inside the temple gate.

South of the gate is Zhunti Hall. Facing north, it stands opposite Guanyin Hall. "Zhunti" is a Sanskrit transliteration meaning purity. Originally enshrined three bodhisattvas including Zhunti, its couplet reads: "Dharma rain and clouds of compassion bless all beings; golden wheel and jeweled canopy shine forever." (Now a special exhibition room on early revolutionary activities.)

North of the gate is Guanyin Hall, the main hall of Cibei Temple. In the 43rd year of Kangxi, its plaque read "Great Freedom"; in the 28th year of Daoguang, it was changed to "Freedom Beheld".

Inscribed stone tablet from the 23rd year of Guangxu (1897) commemorating the restoration of Cibei Temple at Heiyaochang

Wenchang Pavilion faces south, 3 bays wide (8.1 m), 1 bay deep (4.4 m), about 10 m high, covering 83.28 square meters, with a small square pavilion in front.

East side of Taoran Pavilion. The plaque "Taoran Pavilion" was written by Qi Baishi, and the couplet "Mist hides the ancient temple, none arrive; a couch leans in the deep hall, moonlight comes" was written by Weng Tonghe, tutor to the Guangxu Emperor.

Interior of Taoran Pavilion. The "Taoran" plaque was inscribed by Jiang Zao; the couplet "As if hearing Mr. Tao split three paths; come share a shrine with Amitabha" was written by Lin Zexu (Qing Dynasty anti-opium minister).

On the south wall inside Taoran Pavilion, a stone carving of Qi Baishi's lyric "Moon over West River: Revisiting Taoran Pavilion, Gazing at the Western Hills"

West side of Taoran Pavilion. The plaque "Taoran Pavilion" was written by Guo Moruo; the couplet "Mist wreathes the ancient temple, none arrive; trees lean in the deep hall, moonlight comes" was inscribed by Weng Fanggang.

Cibei Temple and Taoran Pavilion courtyard.

Courtyard of Cibei Temple.

The lake outside Cibei Temple is already covered with a thin layer of ice.

Crossing Yun'an Bridge leads to the Huaxia Mingting (Famous Chinese Pavilions) Garden.

Guide map of Huaxia Mingting Garden

The plaque "Huaxia Mingting Garden" was written by Qigong. East Gate of Huaxia Mingting Garden (open 6:00–21:00)

Corridor leading to Yunhui Lou

Corridor leading to Qingyin Ge

Yunhui Lou · Qingyin Ge were originally built during the Qianlong period on the east bank of the South Sea, one of the Three Seas in the West Garden, for the Qing emperor to relax, enjoy views, and listen to music. In 1954, architect Liang Sicheng proposed relocation, endorsed by Premier Zhou Enlai, and the buildings were moved here. Zheng Zhenduo, the first director of the New China's Cultural Relics Bureau, called it "a pioneering feat of relocating and reconstructing ancient buildings." In 2014, the park conducted conservation repairs, and in 2015, based on Qing palace furnishing archives, the interiors were restored to present the royal garden's original look and feel.

Duxing (Sole Awakening) Pavilion is located on Mount Yusi in Miluo County, Hunan, as an auxiliary pavilion to Quzi Shrine. Quzi refers to Qu Yuan, the great patriotic poet of Chu during the Warring States. He served as a senior minister but was exiled to the Yuan and Xiang rivers after slander, writing immortal poems like "Li Sao" before drowning himself in the Miluo River. Legend says Qu Yuan often talked with fishermen by the ferry pavilion by the Miluo. Later, people renamed it "Duxing Pavilion" based on the line from "The Fisherman" in the Songs of Chu: "All the world is muddy, I alone am clean; all are drunk, I alone am awake." Taoranting Park built this replica in 1987. The pavilion is hexagonal with red columns, green tiles, and bright paintings; above the eave hangs a horizontal board inscribed "Duxing Pavilion" by Mao Dun and Zhao Puchu.

Lanting (Orchid Pavilion) is one of the renowned gardens south of the Yangtze, at the foot of Lanzhu Mountain southwest of Shaoxing, Zhejiang. The Book of Yue says King Goujian of Yue planted orchids here, hence the name. On the third day of the third month in the 9th year of Yonghe (353 AD), the famous Eastern Jin calligrapher Wang Xizhi gathered with Xie An, Sun Chuo, and 41 others for the purification ritual, floating wine cups along a winding stream and composing poems. Afterwards, he wrote the world-famous "Preface to the Orchid Pavilion Collection". Thus, Lanting became a sacred place in calligraphy. Taoranting Park rebuilt it in 1985. The stele inscribed "Lanting" in the pavilion was written by the Kangxi Emperor; it was smashed during the Cultural Revolution but later repaired. It is popularly known as Little Orchid Pavilion.

Little squirrels around Lanting

E's Pond Stele Pavilion is part of Lanting. Because Wang Xizhi loved geese, a goose pond was dug. The two characters "鹅池" (Goose Pond) are said to be written by Wang Xizhi and his son Wang Xianzhi. Wang Xizhi is honored as the "Sage of Calligraphy", and his son as the "Little Sage". Taoranting Park built this replica in 1986.

Shaoling Thatched Cottage Stele Pavilion: West of Chengdu by Huanhua Brook, Du Fu's Thatched Cottage marks the residence of the great Tang Dynasty realist poet Du Fu, who fled to Chengdu in the 2nd year of Qianyuan (759) to escape the An Lushan Rebellion. His famous poem "Song of the Autumn Wind and a Straw Hut" was likely written here. In the 13th year of Yongzheng (1734), a stele pavilion named after Du Fu's alias Shaoling was built on the site, becoming a noted structure. The four large characters on the stele were written by Prince Guoguo, Yunti, the 17th son of Kangxi. Taoranting Park built this replica in 1985.

Erquan (Second Best Spring) Pavilion is in Xihui Park, Wuxi, Jiangsu. The spring was dug in the 14th year of Dali (779) of the Tang, with upper, middle, and lower pools. Its water, called "dragon saliva", is fragrant and perfect for tea. The Tang tea master Lu Yu rated it the second best in the realm; Su Dongpo praised it, leaving the line: "Alone I bring the moon from heaven to test the second spring on earth." During Song Huizong's reign, it became imperial tribute. Emperor Gaozong of Song, while moving south, drank here, built a pavilion, and inscribed "Source of Living Water". Emperors Kangxi and Qianlong both visited on their southern tours to taste the water and write poems. In modern times, the blind folk musician Abing composed the famous "Moon Reflected on Second Spring". The pavilion is delicate and elegant, with double-dragon ornaments on the roof. Inside is a stele by Yuan calligrapher Zhao Mengfu reading "Second Best Spring Under Heaven", and the lower pool features a stone dragon-head spout, said to be a Ming relic. Taoranting Park built this replica in 1987.

Jinyue (Moon Immersion) Pavilion sits in Gantang Lake, Jiujiang, Jiangxi. Legend has it the spot was the command platform of Wu's Grand Commander Zhou Yu during the Three Kingdoms. It was built by the famous poet Bai Juyi when he was demoted to serve as a sub-prefect of Jiangzhou from 815 to 818 AD. Later generations named it Jinyue Pavilion after a line in his "Pipa Song": "At parting, the vast river was steeped in moonlight." The pavilion was rebuilt several times; in late Qing, monk Guhuai collected alms to reconstruct it, resulting in a simple, elegant style. Taoranting Park built this replica in 1988.

Canglang (Surging Wave) Pavilion is Suzhou's oldest famous garden. In the 4th year of Qingli of the Song (1044), poet Su Shunqin built it by the water. During the Kangxi reign, it was overhauled and moved onto a hill within the garden. The name comes from "The Fisherman" in the Songs of Chu: "When the River Canglang is clear, I wash my cap-strings; when it is muddy, I wash my feet." Su styled himself "Old Man of Canglang Pavilion" and wrote a record of it. The pavilion bears a couplet handwritten by the Qing classics scholar Yu Yue: "Bright breeze, bright moon — priceless; near waters, far mountains — all hold feeling." The first line is from Ouyang Xiu, the second from Su Shunqin. Taoranting Park built this replica in 1986.

Zuiweng (Old Toper) Pavilion is on Mount Langya in Chuzhou, Anhui. In the 5th year of Qingli of the Northern Song (1045), after Ouyang Xiu was demoted to governor of Chuzhou, the monk Zhixian built this pavilion for him. Ouyang often feasted here, got tipsy on just a little wine, and nicknamed himself "Old Toper", also naming the pavilion. He wrote the famous "Account of Old Toper Pavilion". Su Shi later wrote a calligraphic stele of the essay, and the pair are hailed as "Two Masterpieces". The pavilion is graceful, with wide eaves and slender columns suggesting flight. Beside lies a large horizontal rock inscribed in seal script "Zuiweng Pavilion", and to the west is "Brewing Spring". Taoranting Park built this replica in 1986.

Zhexian (Banished Immortal) Pavilion is the main feature of the Li Bai scenic area, shaped as a half-pavilion with flying eaves and a gourd finial. Inside are carved two poems by Qiu Rui and Yang Rong about Li Bai, the banished immortal. Taoranting Park built this replica in 1995.

Chuitai (Blowing Platform) is in Slender West Lake, Yangzhou, Jiangsu. The Book of Song records that Xu Zhan built a wind pavilion, moon platform, blowing platform, and qin hall. The blowing platform was also called Fishing Platform because Emperor Qianlong once fished from it. Taoranting Park built a replica on the West Lake inside the park in 1986. Its three round gates frame sightlines south to Yunhui Lou, north to Huxin Pavilion, and west to Zuiweng Pavilion, creating picture-perfect compositions.

Baipo (Hundred Slopes) Pavilion stands in the Three Sus Park, Sichuan, in memory of Song writer Su Dongpo. While serving as prefect of Yingzhou (now Fuyang, Anhui), Su wrote the poem "Boating on Ying": "I love to stroll along the shore, the Ying waters strangely delight ... Upstream it's clear and straight, downstream twisting into ripples. Painted boats mirror bright, I laugh and ask, who are you? Suddenly scales appear, disheveling my beard and brows, shattering into a hundred Dongpos, then in an instant back again. This shallow pool's whimsy frolics with me." In the Jiading era (1214) of the Southern Song, Meizhou prefect Wei Liaoweng built Baipo Pavilion based on Su's poem in a ring-shaped city lake. Through time, both lake and pavilion vanished. In 1928, Baipo Pavilion was rebuilt on Rui Lian Pond inside Three Sus Shrine in Meishan. Taoranting Park built this replica in 1989.

Strolling through the park, you'll find ancient poems carved on ornamental stones everywhere.

Doesn't this rock resemble an Easter Island moai?

Tang poet Bai Juyi's "Pipa Song" engraved on a stone shaped like a pipa.

A replica of Hangzhou West Lake's Mid-Lake Pavilion.

The plaque "Yaotai" was written by Huang Miaozi.

The Yaotai courtyard now houses Yaotai Tea House where visitors can enjoy tea.

Yaotai Tea House entrance

Colorful paintings along the corridors

Kiln slag unearthed at Yaotai

Toy store in the children's play area

Ticket price list

In the play area, there are two free stone slides called Big Snow Mountain and Little Snow Mountain. Many local visitors not only bring their children but also slide themselves to relive childhood memories.

The park's Popular Science Cabin

Inside the cabin: an exhibition on the six major plant organs

Insect specimen display

Cartoon landscape installations on the lawns.

"Watchful" — two cartoon owl installations, a large and a small, representing common nocturnal birds in the park. Their mutual gaze conveys the beauty of harmonious coexistence between humans and nature.