Shandong Travel: Step into Qingzhou Ancient City and Savor Its Ancient Charm (Photos)
Located in Shandong, Qingzhou Ancient City is one of the ancient Nine Provinces, with a history of over 7,000 years of development, 5,000 years of civilization, and twelve years of glory as a capital. To explore this ancient city's profound and enduring history and culture, during this year's Spring Festival, Beijing Target Action Cultural Tourism Group organized a four-day 'Spring Festival Self-Drive Shandong Tour,' and stepping into Qingzhou Ancient City to savor its ancient charm was the very first stop.
Gathering at Majuqiao Service Area (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
At 9 a.m. on February 2, 2022, led by Zhao Xiangjie, head of Beijing Target Action Cultural Tourism, the journalist was invited to join a group of nine fellow travelers—Zhang Qiuyue, Bai Yuchen, Wei Xu, Zhang Huailun, Luo Xiaofang, Wei Xiaoshun, Wang Minghe, and others—as they set off from Beijing on a self-driving journey to Shandong.
Binzhou Yellow River Bridge (Photo by Luo Xiaofang)
Perhaps due to the pandemic, from the Majuqiao Service Area on the Beijing–Shanghai Expressway to the second stop at Dagang Service Area for a short rest, there were very few vehicles, and the scene was one of emptiness. It was a stark contrast to the bustling crowds and traffic seen during past holiday periods. The drive was smooth all the way; the convoy passed the Binzhou Yellow River Bridge at 1:30 p.m., and after nearly six hours on the road, entered the Qingzhou Ancient City area in Weifang, Shandong, at 3:00 p.m., checking into the Canaan Promised Land Boutique Guesthouse.
Checked in at Canaan Promised Land (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Upon arriving at the first stop in Qingzhou and dropping off their luggage at the hotel, the group immediately headed to the ancient city, which was just steps away from Canaan. Entering the city, the sight of bustling pedestrians and strings of high-hung red lanterns instantly conveyed a strong festive atmosphere.
Stepping into Qingzhou Ancient City (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Observing the lively, joy-filled scenes of the millennium-old city celebrating the Spring Festival, my mind kept drifting back to the travel notes I had studied about Qingzhou beforehand. The interplay of ancient legacies and present-day realities merged in my thoughts, adding a sense of pleasure as I roamed the old city.
Haida Huijun Stone Archway (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Tracing back through history, Qingzhou was one of the 'Nine Provinces' in the ancient text Yu Gong, roughly referring to the area east of Mount Tai to the Bohai Sea. In remote antiquity it was land of the Eastern Yi tribes. Legend has it that after Yu the Great tamed the floods, he divided the country into nine provinces according to the lie of the mountains and rivers: Qing, Xu, Yang, Jing, Yu, Yi, Yan, Yong, and Liang, with Qingzhou at their head.
Overlooking Qingzhou Ancient City (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
China’s oldest geographical work, the Book of Documents – Yu Gong, states: 'Between the Sea and Mount Tai lies Qingzhou.' The 'Sea' refers to the Bohai Sea, and 'Dai' to Mount Tai. The Rites of Zhou records that 'Due east is Qingzhou,' with a note explaining: 'Because the soil pertains to the lesser yang, its color is blue-green, hence it is called Qingzhou.'
Flagstone Lane in Qingzhou Ancient City (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Qingzhou sits at a crucial transportation hub with an advantageous location. 'To the right it is shielded by mountains and rivers, to the left it is enriched by the sea'; it commands the peninsula to the east, controls Yimeng to the south, overlooks the Bohai Sea to the north, and has been a vital military town through successive dynasties. During the Southern and Northern Dynasties and early Tang, political officials also oversaw military affairs; in the Tang and Five Dynasties, Qingzhou served as the seat of the Pinglu Military Governor.
A Corner of the Ancient City’s Commercial Street (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
In Song and Jin times a Zhenhai army was garrisoned here; in the Northern Song, a Jingdong East Circuit Military Commissioner was established; in Jin, a Shandong East-West Circuit Army Command; in Yuan, a Yidu Commandery and General Command; in Ming, a Shandong Provincial Guard and Regional Military Commission; in Qing, a Shandong Provincial Commander, Circuit Intendant, and Coastal Defense Command, along with an Eight Banners garrison city.
Twilight in Qingzhou Ancient City (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
From March 1948 to April 1949, the East China Bureau was based in Qingzhou. Owing to its prominence, many princes and marquises were enfeoffed in Qingzhou over history. In Han, Shao Ou was enfeoffed as Marquis of Guang for five generations, and Liu Bian for three; in Yuan, Manu was enfeoffed as Prince of Zhongjing and Prince of Yi; in Ming, the Prince of Qi, Prince of Han, and Prince of Heng were enfeoffed here.
Ancient City Tourist Service Center (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Six ancient cities have existed here successively: Guangxian, Guanggu, Nanyang, Dongyang, Dongguan Weizi, and Qicheng. On November 18, 2013, Qingzhou was named a National Famous Historical and Cultural City by the State Council. On February 25, 2017, the Qingzhou Ancient City in Weifang was newly designated a National 5A-level Tourist Attraction.
Ancient City Tavern (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Entering the ancient city through the Haida Huijun stone archway, I found myself on a flagstone-paved road leading to the Fucai Gate tower. This South Gate Street runs about 200 meters, ending at the east-west Wanshougong Street to the north, which further leads to Ouyuan Street. On either side of South Gate Street are lanes like Donghuamen South Lane, Wanshougong Street, and Jiuqu Lane, along with a Catholic church, the Rouge Well, and the Haida Huijun Archway.
Catholic Church (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Strolling along South Gate Street, stalls selling all kinds of trinkets, handicrafts, and food outlets lined both sides in endless rows, doing brisk business. Countless red lanterns hung along the street heightened the festive bustle. The shopkeepers were very warm-hearted. When I bought a bag of local-style 'sawdust sesame cakes,' the young man thrust a handful of sorghum malt candy into my hand, sending an unexpected wave of warmth through me.
Fucai Gate Tower (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Following the short South Gate Street, I soon reached Fucai Gate. Gazing up at the gate tower engraved with the four big characters 'Guo Tai An Min' (May the Country Prosper and People Live in Peace), I noted the two horizontal plaques from top to bottom reading 'Yun Kai Tian Fu' (Clouds Opening to Heavenly Abundance) and 'Di Kong Hai Bang' (Land Embracing the Sea Domains)—strikingly impressive.
Madao (Horse Path) for Mounting the City Wall (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Fucai Gate, part of the Qingzhou Ancient City Tourist Area, is the south gate of ancient Nanyang City. Nanyang was first built in the Northern Wei period as an earthen fortification, then rebuilt in brick in the third year of the Hongwu reign. The wall stood 12 meters high, 6 meters thick, and stretched over 13 li and 108 paces, with 1,777 battlements. The four city gates were Haiyan, Daizong, Fucai, and Zhanchen. Within the walls were yamen offices, temples, churches, academies, official residences, public lodgings, guild halls, shops, stores, money exchange houses, and armed escort agencies—making it a true 'First Prefectural City of Shandong.'
The Journalist Takes a Photo at Qingzhou Ancient City (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Because ancient Nanyang City resembled a crouching ox, Qingzhou is also popularly called 'Crouching Ox City.' The rebuilt Fucai Gate and its platform follow the historical design. The gate tower is a two-story brick-and-wood structure, five bays wide and one bay deep, with double eaves and hip-and-gable roofs.
A Corner of a Traditional Building in the Ancient City (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The south gate platform contains two internal levels, used in ancient times as hidden troop chambers. In the arched tunnel at the center, three arched doorways on each side lead to the troop chambers, and stairs ascend to the gate tower. East and west horse paths on either side of the platform provide additional access to the wall.
Banners Fluttering in the Breeze (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Following the horse path on the left side of the tower, I climbed up onto the city wall. Looking out, the long wall was lined with red-and-black flags bearing the characters 'Qingzhou' fluttering at every battlement. Close by stood imposing ancient warrior statues and a few old iron cannons. Looking up, I saw the gate tower with its red pillars and sweeping eaves; looking down, a panoramic view of the ancient city unfolded.
Looking Up at the Ancient City Gate Tower (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
No visit to Qingzhou Ancient City is complete without a trip to the 'Memory of the Ancient City Cultural Exhibition Hall.' In addition to a series of precious artifacts showcasing Qingzhou's long history, there is also a 'Memory of the Ancient City: Old Photos of Qingzhou Prefecture' exhibition. Each weathered freeze-frame vividly tells a weighty history through silent images.
Ancient City Cultural Exhibition Hall (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The Qingzhou Museum is the only county-level national first-class museum in China, housing over 30,000 artifacts, including more than a thousand national treasures. Among its holdings are the Ming-dynasty palace examination paper of Zhao Bingzhong, an Eastern Han jade disc inscribed 'For the Benefit of Descendants,' Warring States jade figurines, and Buddhist statues from the Longxing Temple site—all treasures of the collection that are utterly unique in the country.
Inside the Exhibition Hall (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The museum features twelve halls: a Qingzhou General History Hall (divided into two exhibition rooms: prehistory–1840 and 1840–1949), a ceramics hall, a Longxing Temple Buddhist sculpture group hall, a Longxing Temple Buddhist sculpture masterpieces hall, an ancient calligraphy and painting hall, a bronze mirror hall, a stone sculpture hall, a stelae hall, a jade hall, a bronze statuary hall, a revolutionary relics hall, and an ancient coin hall. The displays follow a principle of excellence and specialization, highlighting Qingzhou’s character while integrating science, artistry, and visual appeal to suit all tastes.
Ninety-Spice Copper Hotpot (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
On the evening of the second day of the Lunar New Year (2022.02.02), as dusk was falling after our exploration of Qingzhou Ancient City, we drove from the hotel to find dinner. Boss Zhao Xiangjie confidently led us to a barbecue restaurant he had once enjoyed, but upon arrival, we found a sign saying it was closed until the fifth day of the New Year. With no choice, we searched online and ended up at 'Ninety-Spice Copper Hotpot.' Although it wasn't the charcoal-fire style of old Beijing, the copper pots were genuine, and the flavor was quite good.
Entering Qingzhou Sleepless City (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
After dinner, I joined the Target Action Spring Festival Self-Drive Shandong Tour convoy for the final stop of our Qingzhou Ancient City excursion: driving several kilometers to the renowned Qingzhou Sleepless City, truly a dazzling, ever-bright wonderland. After about a 20-minute drive, a scene of brilliant, multicolored lights greeted us, leaving our group in awe.
A Corner of Sleepless City (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Before coming, a local friend of Boss Zhao had told us that Qingzhou Sleepless City is themed around exquisite national-chic culture, blending ancient charm, Qilu folk customs, and modern elements, and using artistic lighting, creative performances, intangible cultural heritage displays, and interactive entertainment to showcase the spirit of Qingzhou and the richness of Shandong culture.
Photo at Sleepless City (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Walking into Sleepless City, the stunning variety of illuminated scenery was overwhelming. All sorts of amusement facilities drew countless visitors joyfully enjoying themselves. On a long 'land boat' with dozens of people standing on it, everyone swayed back and forth in high spirits, their happy faces and ringing laughter echoing long into the night sky.
Sleepless City Shopping Street (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
Here, national-chic street performances, dreamlike situational acts, tech-powered shout springs, a giant Transformer, an online-famous swaying bridge, national-chic parade floats, intangible cultural heritage workshops, dozens of trendy amusements, and over a hundred culinary experiences come together, showcasing a rich array of offerings and innovative cultural experiences. I heard that when it first opened, it made a huge splash and ignited the night-tourism economy of Qingzhou and Weifang. Now, during the Spring Festival, the Sleepless City is ablaze with light every night, thronged with visitors and vehicles flowing like a river of brilliance.
Sleepless City Nightscape (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
It is said that Qingzhou Sleepless City follows the model of Xi’an’s Grand Tang Dynasty Ever-Bright City, focusing primarily on food, complemented by high-density performances and dazzling lighting, creating an overall feeling of both ancient and modern, prosperous grandeur.
Dazzling Night Views (Photo by Feng Ganyong)
The area of the Sleepless City is not especially large, but under the glow of red lanterns lining every street, the lanes brim with the lively hustle and bustle of a marketplace. The entire city is steeped in a solemn yet jubilant atmosphere, evoking the lingering charm of Tang and Song dynasties and revealing the flourishing scene of the Haidai ancient capital—a truly delightful and mesmerizing experience. Concluding our visit to Qingzhou Sleepless City with a sense of lingering enchantment, our first day’s itinerary with the Beijing Target Action Self-Drive Shandong Tour drew to a perfect close. (Text and photos by Feng Ganyong)
