Following the Millennia-Old Canal Culture: Exploring the Ancient Charm and Rebirth of 通州

When you think of 通州, the first thing that might come to mind is the burgeoning city sub-center. But 通州 is the northern starting point of the 大运河, where ancient grain transport docks coexist with the modern Universal Studios, creating a collision of history spanning a thousand years and a journey through past and present.

The canal is the soul of 通州, passing down a long history and civilization. Five rivers—the 温榆河, 小中河, 通惠河, 北运河, and 运潮减河—converge here. Countless canal culture relics remain, including the ancient courses of the 大运河, 永济渠, 通惠河, and the 萧太后运粮河, with tales of grain transport still widely told today.

Travel doesn’t always mean going far away; you can find poetry and scenery right in your own city. So let’s follow the historical thread of the 大运河 and embark on a two-day, one-night journey through 通州.

北京大运河景区 燃灯塔

“Recognize 通州 by a single pagoda silhouette.” The 燃灯塔 in the northern area of the 北京大运河景区 was undoubtedly the most distinctive landmark of 通州 back then. This structure, called the 燃灯佛舍利塔, was first built in the Southern and Northern Dynasties, with a history stretching back centuries. The brick-and-wood pagoda stands on a lotus-shaped Sumeru pedestal, rises 13 stories high, its wind chimes swaying. The outer walls feature exquisite Buddha statues with fine carvings.

The scenic area blends the elegance of Jiangnan with the grandeur of northern China, with water, rocks, flowers, and trees forming a delightful garden landscape. The lake is lush with vegetation, and in summer, lotus flowers bloom. Gazing at the ancient pagoda from here, the pavilions, terraces, waterside structures, and 燃灯塔 compose the most beautiful scene.

There is an elm tree named '塔榆' that grew for several hundred years on the 13th story of 燃灯塔. Later, it was transplanted to the lakeside. Now, new branches cluster thickly with lush green leaves, thriving.

The area also features several ancient buildings. The tomb of the Ming dynasty literary figure 李卓吾 is also worth a visit.

Today, the canal area has become the relaxing 北京大运河景区, with picturesque scenery, willows lining the banks. You can stroll along the river or take a ride on a quaint painted pleasure boat to take in the full beauty of the old grain transport docks.

Many bridges span the canal. The newly popular 千荷泻露桥 is particularly unique, with its white body and graceful lines. The lotus-leaf-edge design is stylish and aesthetically pleasing, drawing many young people for photo ops every day.

As the northern terminus of the 京杭大运河, 通州 has always been a key hub for grain transport and transportation, leaving behind an extremely rich cultural heritage. To get a systematic understanding of 通州’s history, the 通州博物馆 is a must-start.

Located on the south side of 新华大街, the museum is a well-preserved two-courtyard traditional quadrangle dwelling. Surrounded by towering skyscrapers, once you ascend the white marble steps and enter the courtyard, you’re greeted by painted beams and a timeless, antique atmosphere. Flowers bloom in the courtyard, making it pleasant all year round.

The exhibition halls, arranged chronologically, use a wealth of objects and materials to showcase the long and continuous history of 通州, especially the grain transport history that began in the Qin and Han dynasties and flourished through the Yuan, Ming, and Qing, giving us a comprehensive understanding of the canal civilization’s glory.

Though modest in size, the collection is abundant, gathering a large number of precious cultural relics from 通州 and the 大运河 area. From a well-preserved 通州 chronicle to a Tang dynasty unglazed white porcelain ewer with carved designs, and the exquisitely crafted Liao dynasty green-glazed square pottery vase that serves as the museum’s crown jewel, every artifact—enhanced with sound, light, and modern technology—records the weighty history of 通州 and showcases the diligence and wisdom of its people.

At noon, step into 通州小楼饭店. This restaurant has a century of history and is one of the most beloved time-honored brands among locals.

Order the signature braised catfish like a local—crispy outside and tender inside with a rich sauce, as if you’re experiencing life along the canal from a hundred years ago.

In the afternoon, drive to 张家湾. 张家湾 may not stand out today, but when we leaf through the history of the 大运河, from the rise of grain transport in the Yuan dynasty to its withdrawal from the historical stage in the early 20th century, the small 张家湾 was actually the largest dock on the 大运河 at the time, bustling with merchants and famed far and wide.

According to research, a small street in the ancient city of 张家湾 was the model for the 'Ten-Li Street' and 'Flower Branch Lane' in Dream of the Red Chamber. The author 曹雪芹 once ran a pawnshop here. To commemorate this great literary figure, a statue of 曹雪芹 stands on the bank of the 萧太后河 at the northern end of the 京杭大运河, for future generations to admire.

Today, the ancient city of 张家湾 retains only a short section of its old wall. The southern gate stands alone by the river, with a stone bridge arching over the water, connecting to the gate.

The mottled stone slabs on the bridge record the passage of time. Dozens of vividly carved stone lions adorn it. Emperor Wanli of the Ming dynasty bestowed the name 通运桥 upon this small bridge, but locals commonly call it 萧太后桥. Though now neglected and only visited by children playing, who could imagine that in its day, boats from the south all stopped here, making it a prosperous hub?

In the ancient town of 张家湾, 通州, there’s the 中国唐人坊人偶艺术博物馆, housing hundreds of traditional Beijing silk figurines, often called 'Chinese Barbie dolls.'

These masterpieces range from lifelike classical beauties to vividly shaped legendary figures—from ordinary street characters to figures from the Eight Immortals crossing the sea. Made from gauze and silk, the figures have incredibly realistic faces, delicate skin, and truly are exquisitely beautiful Tang dolls that have charmed for a millennium.

To experience this exquisite craftsmanship firsthand, you can take hands-on classes, offering more than ten types of intangible cultural heritage crafts like making Tang dolls, batik, embroidery, and more, making it easy for modern people to grasp the profound traditional arts of ancient China. It’s especially suitable for children, combining education with fun, allowing them to fully understand and appreciate the charm of China’s intangible cultural heritage.

If time is short, you can also visit the 唐人坊’s Beijing Gifts direct store to choose from a rich variety of Beijing-style gifts. The Beijing silk figurines, which have repeatedly served as state gifts, are each unique, each with its own story.

There are many guesthouses in 通州 whose names alone stir longing: '田里花间', '运河小院', '向北', '荷塘月色', '清韵别院'... Life along the canal stretches on, and these had long been tucked away in my 'wish list'.

In the evening, we chose to stay in 宋庄, mainly to make it convenient for exploring 宋庄 the next day. There are guesthouses of all sizes and budgets. We checked into a great-value B&B called '顺12'. It’s not big, but the Instagram-worthy interior and exterior design reveal the owner’s unique aesthetic, and the common areas are especially photogenic.

As the northern starting point of the 大运河, 通州 has a deep cultural and historical foundation, and 宋庄 is 通州’s 'art pearl.' The 宋庄 Art District is often called the 'painters’ village,' with art studios and galleries dotting the streets. Despite its name suggesting a small village, the area is quite large and divided into many different zones.

Since the 1990s, some artists from Beijing began working and living in 宋庄. After decades of development, 宋庄 has become like the vast sea that embraces all rivers, welcoming painters, sculptors, musicians, and all sorts of dreamers and art lovers from all corners. Today, it is home to tens of thousands of artists from across China and around the world.

When in 宋庄, you can’t miss the exhibitions. The three popular art museums not only have rich collections but are also incredibly photogenic both inside and out.

宋庄美术馆:

The tall building with a red-brick exterior is very eye-catching. On the ground floor, there are some cafés and art shops. Inside, white walls interplay with the shadows of red bricks, perfect for photos. Admission is free.

Its official name is actually 当代艺术文献馆, located right next to 宋庄美术馆. The Mediterranean-style white building is full of exotic charm.

It has six courtyards, most of which open upward to the sky within the building, hence it’s also known as the 'Paradise Gallery.' The architecture itself is very photogenic; taking photos outside is just amazing.

Despite its fame, 宋庄 has retained a quiet and peaceful atmosphere, far from the hustle and bustle, without heavy commercial undertones. In the evening, local residents cool off in the streets and casually sell homegrown fruits and vegetables, very down-to-earth. All sorts of artsy little shops are scattered in the alleys; a casual stroll might uncover hidden gems.

Apart from art, food is another thing that captivates me about 宋庄. From Northeast-style barbecue to Yunnan mushroom hotpot, Australian steaks to Japanese sushi, it seems like every cuisine you’ve heard of can be found here. The storefronts and settings are also quite artsy, turning every meal into an artistic pleasure.

This two-day, one-night trip through 通州, tracing the canal to explore the ancient and the modern, allows you to touch millennia-old relics, relive historical charm, and experience the elegance and leisure of modern 通州, letting go of all worries and enjoying a truly relaxing weekend.

If you, too, have a fascination and curiosity for history, enjoy delving into ancient legends, love art, food, and savoring life, then this itinerary is definitely for you. Here’s a simple reference for your trip:

Day1: 燃灯塔 - 千荷泻露桥 and 运河 - 通州博物馆 - 小楼饭店 - 张家湾 - 唐人坊

Day2: 宋庄, 宋庄美术馆, 树美术馆, etc.

Transportation: Public transportation between the major attractions in 通州 is convenient. Biking within the city is also a unique experience. To save time, driving is recommended.

Tickets: Apart from a few art museums that charge admission, all other sites on this itinerary are free to visit. Remember to bring your ID card!