2019 Beijing Trip by Dawn Light
Beijing, the capital of the People's Republic of China, is China's political and cultural center. It is a world-renowned ancient capital and a world historical and cultural city, with deep cultural heritage and rich tourism resources, a pride cherished in the hearts of all Chinese people. As a child, the song 'I Love Beijing's Tiananmen…' deeply imprinted Beijing on our hearts; visiting and traveling to Beijing became our longing and first choice. I remember my first trip to Beijing in the 1980s, accompanying my father for medical treatment. Though there was worry, inner excitement still prevailed. In the end, due to long waiting times for tests, my father gave up on the treatment, but during the wait, we visited Tiananmen, the Great Wall, the Forbidden City, Xiangshan, and other sites. The deepest impression was eating roast duck: the two of us ordered a whole duck at a high price, not knowing about the dipping sauce or pancakes, which led to an embarrassing moment, but it left a deep memory. Later, for work and family matters, I went to Beijing 7–8 times, visiting nearly all attractions big and small, and tasting many delicacies. This time, the main reason for this Beijing trip was that my daughter was resigning from her postdoctoral position at Peking University's Boya program to become a postdoctoral researcher at the University of California, USA. As parents, we mainly came to accompany her and see her off. While doing so, we also toured some scenic spots.
May 2, 2019 Linxia–Beijing
After several days of packing and preparation, we finally got on the airport shuttle bus, but a family issue back home forced us to get off and forfeit the fare. Once it was resolved, a warm-hearted friend hired a taxi to take us to Zhongchuan Airport. Luckily, we had left ample time and with our friend’s help; otherwise, we definitely wouldn’t have made it. At 17:50, our flight arrived on time in Beijing. My daughter had booked a Buick business car online to pick us up. Soon we reached her accommodation—Building 8, Zhongguan Xinyuan. She had prepared a hot pot dinner, the spread was very bountiful. Watching my busy daughter, eating hot pot, and thinking that she would soon travel far away, my heart was a mix of emotions, filled with sighs.
May 3, 2019 Peking University – Hongbinlou – Beijing SKP – Taikoo Li Sanlitun
The weather was lovely today. Both of my daughter’s aunts and their families happened to be in Beijing, so we arranged to visit the Peking University campus together in the morning. Peking University, or 'Beida', is a key university directly under the Ministry of Education of the People's Republic of China and administered at the central level. It is ranked among the 'World-Class Universities and First-Class Disciplines', 'Project 211', and 'Project 985'. Founded in 1898 and originally called the Imperial University of Peking, it is the first modern national comprehensive university in China.
Peking University is a holy land in the hearts of countless students, and I felt truly honored to visit once more. Stepping into Beida, what met my eyes was a profusion of ancient trees, dignified and elegant old buildings, and memorial pavilions scattered everywhere. The rich cultural atmosphere and profound sense of history here create a unique charm that fills one with pride and joy. Weiming Lake and Boya Pagoda—just ordinary water and a simple pagoda—are enough to inspire endless longing in students.
Strolling on the campus, listening to children’s happy laughter, I bowed my head in thought and felt a sudden pang of regret: 'If a young man doesn't work hard, he will regret it when old.' It was a comfort that my daughter could do her postdoc at Beida; for me, that brought a little consolation. I sincerely hope that the children will understand this truth early and later enter their dream key universities.
At noon, my daughter’s uncle treated us to a feast at Hongbinlou near the Exhibition Center. We had roast duck, sweet-and-sour mandarin fish, sautéed sea cucumber with scallions, and more. Everyone was in high spirits, the atmosphere was great, and the food was delicious. After lunch we went to Beijing SKP, a very upscale and luxurious shopping destination on the eastern side of Chang’an Avenue. The moment you enter, your eyes are filled with boutiques of world-class international brands, each arranged exquisitely and beautifully. The environment was excellent, with a high-end feel. Most products were luxury goods with jaw-dropping prices—some things could cost a lifetime’s earnings. I wondered who would buy them. Here I felt my own income was quite shabby, heh.
After looking and appreciating, around 17:00 we reached Taikoo Li Sanlitun, one of the fashion landmarks of the capital, a consumption hub combining shopping, leisure, art, and entertainment.
The place was extraordinarily prosperous, with massive traffic, huge crowds, and shoulder-to-shoulder pedestrians. Global fashion trends, culture, art, food, and shopping all blended in this open space. All kinds of entertainment, dining, and shopping were available. It’s also a gathering spot for pretty girls and handsome guys, as well as foreigners from many countries… lots of people were using long lenses to photograph beauties and fashion shoots. As night fell, the area lit up with neon lights, red lanterns and green wine; the glittering streams of people and light reflected the noise and luxury of a big city—very lively and beautiful.
We popped our heads here and there, feasting our eyes. At the children’s urging, we all went to eat ice cream. Though many people were lined up, after a short wait it felt wonderful. My daughter’s uncle’s family also bought gifts for the kids. Tired from walking, we sat down together at a roadside bar stall, sipping drinks, listening to Beijing accents and tunes, feeling the breeze of the capital, and chatting about interesting life stories—extremely pleasant and satisfying. Around 22:00 we said goodbye to each other and went back to Zhongguan Xinyuan to rest.
May 4, 2019 Yuanmingyuan
I got up at 8:00 in the morning and around 9:30 our family cycled on shared bikes to visit Yuanmingyuan. Yuanmingyuan was a famous Qing-dynasty imperial garden, composed of Yuanmingyuan (Garden of Perfection and Brightness), Changchunyuan (Garden of Eternal Spring), and Qichunyuan (Garden of Blossoming Spring). Historically it was incredibly magnificent and elegant, known as the 'Garden of Gardens'. In 1860 the Anglo-French forces burned its main buildings to ashes; today only ruins remain, and visitors can only pay respects among the remnants and search for the shadows of its past glory.
Upon entering Yuanmingyuan, one is greeted by blooming flowers of many colors, with trees and grass everywhere. Green shade, lush and thick, tender green and emerald green deepening as you walk. The lake water was crystal clear and calm; lakeside willow branches drooped like countless green ribbons. There were arched bridges over streams, pavilions and meandering walkways, resplendent halls and exquisite towers. Many of the garden’s features were modeled after famous scenic spots from around the country; others were built following the poetic imagery of ancient verses. There was a 'Market Street' symbolizing a bustling marketplace, and hillside villages evoking pastoral landscapes. The garden not only had traditional Chinese architecture but also Western-style scenes. Roaming inside was like traveling north, south, east, and west, drinking in Chinese and foreign landmarks; lingering there felt as if one were in a fantasy realm.
Yuanmingyuan was not only architecturally grand but also housed the most precious historical artifacts. Arriving at the Xiyanglou (Western-style buildings) ruins, desolation filled the eyes. Broken walls and rubble piled everywhere; wild grass and scattered stones. A few surviving marble pillars stood tall above, telling that piece of history. Standing before them, I truly understood what it means to be 'beaten when behind'—truly heart-wrenching… Yuanmingyuan is vast; we walked, rested, and took photos, and then cycled home around 16:30.
In the evening, after eating dumplings stuffed with cabbage and shrimp, we rested.
May 5, 2019 Beijing Botanical Garden
Today my daughter stayed home to fill in forms. My wife and I went to the Beijing Botanical Garden to see flowers. We set off by subway around 8:30 and arrived at about 9:00. The Beijing Botanical Garden was founded in 1956 and is located at the foot of Xiangshan in Haidian District. It consists of a plant exhibition area, a historical and cultural scenic area, a nature reserve, and a research area—a comprehensive botanical garden integrating science popularization, research, and sightseeing.
Walking into the garden, the first thing we saw was a large boulder engraved with the bold calligraphy 'Beijing Botanical Garden', while below it a hundred flowers competed in bloom. Nearby were flower walls and baskets in full blossom. Wow, so gorgeous! We were instantly captivated and quickly started taking pictures. In the garden, many flowers were in peak bloom, in a riot of colors—purple, white, red… every blossom was so charming, so natural, so enticing, each so beautiful that one hated to leave. Like bees, we darted from one patch to another, photographing and admiring. Some flowers we recognized; others we couldn’t name. They all showed off a thousand postures and competed in beauty; we felt as if in a paradise of flowers, intoxicated.
Up ahead was Jingcheng Lake. The lake surface was very expansive, the blue water blending with the sky for a broad vista—lovely scenery! Standing under the lakeside willows, gazing at the glittering surface and inhaling the faintly fragrant breeze, I felt amazingly comfortable! Not far away was the tulip garden, where colorful flowers bloomed brilliantly, emitting fragrance in full splendor. Clusters squeezed together in lush profusion, like burning torches, dressing the earth like a brocade carpet—so enchantingly beautiful it made one linger.
Then clusters of white snowball viburnum on branches caught our eye. The pure white color stood out strikingly against the blue sky, feeling extraordinarily fresh. In the peony garden, most of the peonies had already opened; peonies of all colors vied in beauty, displaying their stately elegance and drawing exclamations from visitors.
The botanical garden is vast, with numerous plant varieties, as well as gardens, lakes, streams, hillocks, and mountain trails; there are cultural sites like the Wofo Temple and Cao Xueqin’s former residence; and restaurants and tea houses are scattered about. We strolled and admired as we went, and around 16:00 took the subway back home.
After 17:00, our daughter’s close friend Jinjin invited our whole family to the riverside branch of Hongyuan Shabu City for traditional Beijing Muslim-style hot pot. We had a very pleasant chat and went home around 21:00.
May 6, 2019 Olympic Park
I got up at 8:00. Our daughter went to handle her university checkout procedures. My wife and I took a bus to visit the Beijing Olympic Park to see the Bird’s Nest and the Water Cube. The Beijing Olympic Park is located in Chaoyang District, a unique cultural landscape at the northern end of Beijing’s central axis, covering a total area of 11.59 square kilometers. The park contains Asia’s largest urban artificial water system, Asia’s largest urban green landscape, the world’s widest pedestrian square, Asia’s longest underground traffic loop, and the largest celebration square. It features the Bird’s Nest (National Stadium), the Water Cube (National Aquatics Center), the National Indoor Stadium, the China National Convention Center, a dazzling array of sculptures, all kinds of exquisitely designed flower patterns, landscape light columns, and more—a public park integrating tourism, leisure, entertainment, and sports.
Entering the park, right ahead was a straight and wide avenue, flanked by various handsome buildings. On one side was the dragon-shaped waterway; the water was crystal clear, the banks luxuriantly green, willows swaying in the breeze, and colorful flowers blooming in clusters, adorning the place with exceptional beauty. Before our eyes stood the distinctly shaped Beijing Olympic Tower, incorporating Olympic ring elements.
Following the dragon waterway, opposite were the China Science and Technology Museum and the China National Studies Center. Further ahead was the pyramid-shaped TV broadcast tower known as the Linglong Tower and the eye-catching Bird’s Nest.
The Bird’s Nest (National Stadium) was the main venue of the 2008 Beijing Olympics. With its grand and elegant exterior and the many international events it hosts, it has become one of Beijing's new landmarks in recent years. Approaching it, we saw the outer structure of steel columns interwoven like tree branches into the form of a 'bird’s nest', its undulating arcs giving it the look of a rhythmic living body. The design is truly unique and exquisitely well built, with stunning visual impact, surrounded by blooming flowers—felt so beautiful!
Opposite the Bird’s Nest is the Water Cube, the main swimming venue built for the 2008 Summer Olympics and also one of the Games’ iconic structures. Its architecture is very unusual: the exterior is composed of over 3,000 irregular air-cushion bubbles, resembling water molecules in a blue ocean from afar—a brilliant concept. Nearby were the National Indoor Stadium and the National Sports Center, with sculptures and landscape light columns, and a subway station beside.
The day was fine and hot. We didn’t buy tickets to enter the Bird’s Nest or the Water Cube; we just browsed outside for more than five hours and then returned by subway.
May 7, 2019 Summer Palace (Yiheyuan)
We got up at 8:00, and the whole family went to visit the Summer Palace together. We arrived by subway around 10:00. The Summer Palace was originally the Qing emperors’ temporary dwelling and garden, once called Qingyi Garden. It is the largest and best-preserved imperial garden in China today, centered on the Tower of Buddhist Incense on Longevity Hill. According to different locations and terrain, palaces, halls, towers, pavilions, corridors, and kiosks of exquisite architecture were placed, while the Long Corridor at the foot of the hill links the diverse buildings with green hills and blue waters in a very beautiful scene. The garden also houses many precious cultural relics and is hailed as a 'Museum of Imperial Gardens'.
We entered via the North Palace Gate. Right inside was the Three-Arch Bridge, under which lay Suzhou Street. Standing on the bridge and looking around, everything was clear at a glance. Suzhou Street was built in imitation of a Jiangnan water town, with small bridges, flowing water, and shops lining the banks, mainly for the pleasure and shopping of emperors, empresses, and concubines—creating a bustling market atmosphere, heh. Exiting Suzhou Street and passing an archway named 'Cifu' (Compassionate Blessing), we reached a religious complex combining Han and Tibetan styles, resplendent and imposing. This is the main architectural group on the back hill, the Four Great Regions. Continuing upward brought us to the highest point in the Summer Palace, a beamless Buddhist hall called the Sea of Wisdom. Its entire outer structure is decorated with exquisite yellow and green glazed tiles, with a small amount of purple and blue glazed tiles on the roof, giving the whole building a richly colorful and magnificent appearance. Descending, we saw the Pavilion of the Fragrant Buddha and the Hall of Dispelling Clouds. Longevity Hill is not tall, so going up and down was easy.
At the foot of the hill lay the famous Long Corridor, facing Kunming Lake and leaning against Longevity Hill. Winding and twisting, it stretches 728 meters with 548 pillars. Famous for its fine architecture, it is the longest corridor in classical Chinese architecture and garden design. Every beam and rafter is decorated with colorful paintings—over 14,000 pictures in total, vivid and splendid.
In front of us was Kunming Lake, clear and mirror-like. The sun shone on its surface, a gentle breeze stirred, and ripples glistened. Not far away, a few boats drifted on the lake, adding color to the tranquil blue. Leaning on the railing, enjoying the beautiful scenery around Kunming Lake and feeling the soft breeze, I felt so comfortable! Heading west along the Long Corridor, by the lakeside there was a giant marble boat, also called the Qingyanfang (Boat of Purity and Ease). It measures 36 meters long; its upper two stories are wooden structures painted to imitate marble grain, with brick-carved top decorations—exquisite and magnificent, this is a famous waterfront architectural treasure in the Summer Palace.
We continued along Kunming Lake, crossing Jiehu Bridge, past ancient willows on the West Dyke, and reached the Jade Belt Bridge. All along the way we walked in the shade of trees, felt the cool breeze, watched Kunming Lake, and inhaled the faint fragrance of flowers and grass—our mood was wonderful.
The garden was lush everywhere; the lake rippled with blue waves; between white clouds and blue sky, red walls and green tiles stood majestic and grand. On the West Dyke, towering ancient willows provided deep shade and cool comfort. Here we could appreciate the beauty of hills and lake, and also feel the historical and cultural weight of an imperial garden. As we roamed, one could casually spot some natural wildlife—a mother duck with her ducklings playing freely… truly an enjoyment.
After about five hours of wandering, we were a bit tired. Not far ahead was the West Gate of the Summer Palace, and we ended our day’s tour there. After 15:00, we took the subway back.
May 8, 2019 Packing up
I helped my daughter pack her belongings at home, mail things, and so on. We bought tickets and planned our itinerary, preparing to take the train tomorrow night to the Chengde Mountain Resort.
May 9, 2019 Tsinghua University
After finishing the necessary formalities and mailing the things, we all went out to explore the area around Zhongguan Xinyuan. Zhongguan Xinyuan is a comprehensive campus built by Peking University to enhance its reception capacity, integrating accommodation, dining, conferences, teaching, and recreation—the surroundings are really nice. But after walking around for a while, my daughter felt unwell, probably from mental stress and worry. My wife and daughter went back home to rest. I also felt restless, so I cycled alone on a shared bike to visit Tsinghua University.
Tsinghua University, abbreviated as 'Qinghua', was founded in 1911. It is a national key university directly under the Ministry of Education, a base for cultivating high-level talent and scientific research in China, known as the 'cradle of red engineers' and a place countless students dream of. I remember a few years ago when I had something to do in Beijing, I was casually strolling at Tsinghua early one morning. A student came up, bowed to me, greeted 'Hello, teacher!' and asked for directions to somewhere. I was both flattered and embarrassed; I pointed vaguely forward and told him to ask someone else. Another time, my child and I were standing at the gate of Lanzhou University talking; a junior schoolmate of my child saw me and immediately said 'Hello, teacher!'—perhaps I have an air of a professor, heh, but these two incidents left a deep impression on me; thinking of them now still makes me feel quite pleased.
The gate of Tsinghua remains antique and elegant; the characters for 'Tsinghua University' are as graceful and appealing as ever. Once inside, I followed the tree-lined avenue; on both sides were green spaces or buildings blending Chinese and Western styles, ancient towering trees, tranquil brooks, and hillocks—all serene and beautiful. Pavilions, terraces, and towers complemented lakes, waters, and woods; the environment was utterly charming. Here and there one could see small groups of young people reading or chatting. This time, cycling or walking, I visited the library, the Grand Auditorium, the Tongfang Building, the Tsinghua School, the Century Tripod, the sundial, the statue of Wen Yiduo, Tsinghua Pond, Shui Mu Tsinghua, the Gongzi Hall, Guyue Hall, the Lotus Pond by Moonlight, and Jinchun Garden Heritage Park.
By the Lotus Pond—the lake surface was covered with vigorous lotus leaves, like small green umbrellas, punctuated by a few pink lotus blossoms. The water was clear, and along the banks weeping willows danced gently in the breeze. Sitting under the willows, gazing at this beautiful scene, I imagined the famed beauty of 'Moonlight over the Lotus Pond' described by Mr. Zhu Ziqing: 'Moonlight like flowing water quietly pours over this patch of leaves and flowers…' It still felt marvelously poetic. In the peony garden, various peonies were blooming one after another; big flowers revealed their charm, whether the famed Yao Yellow and Wei Purple, or Zhao Pink and Bean Green—all graceful and alluring, displaying their flirtatiousness.
The campus was dotted with diverse sculptures and stone inscriptions, crafting a cultural atmosphere, the most engraved being the university motto: 'Self-discipline and Social Commitment'. At 'Shui Mu Tsinghua', inscribed by the Kangxi Emperor himself, the lake rippled, rockeries assumed quirky shapes, and a small 'waterfall' babbled—a landscape where hills held water and water embraced hills. The lakeshore was lined with drooping willows, huge trees leaned over the water and pierced the clouds, and fish leaped in the water—truly an ideal place for study and leisure.
Around 17:00 I cycled back home on the shared bike. At about 19:00 in the evening, we happily went to Hongbinlou in Chaoyang District for roast duck and sweet-and-sour mandarin fish, only to suddenly realize we had bought a train ticket for 0:10 on May 9—which was actually early morning, and the train had long since departed. We hurriedly bought online tickets for the morning of May 10 to Chengde. That night we had to return to Zhongguan Xinyuan, take out our packed luggage, and go to sleep.
Summary: Some time ago, when I was chatting with my daughter on video, she teased me and asked if I had written about our Beijing trip. Indeed, over three years have passed. I always felt busy and never found the chance to settle down and sort out my thoughts. And the longer the time, the harder it felt to convey the feelings and mood back then. During this recent period, the unprecedented pandemic confined us at home with nucleic acid tests and citywide lockdowns. My thoughts drifted back, and I finally compiled our family’s Beijing trip in May 2019. This time, we mainly visited China’s top two universities—Peking University and Tsinghua University, admired the famous imperial gardens Yuanmingyuan and the Summer Palace, appreciated new landmarks the Bird’s Nest and the Water Cube, toured the nationally key botanical garden—Beijing Botanical Garden, and also savored Beijing Muslim cuisine at Hongbinlou roast duck and Nanmen Shabu hot pot. We also explored the high-end, bustling shopping areas of Beijing SKP and Taikoo Li Sanlitun. Overall the experience was excellent, deeply memorable, leaving a lifetime of happy memories, brimming with contentment.
Postscript: After a period of consulting materials and recollecting, I have finished recording the 2019 Beijing itinerary. Through this recording, I have elevated my travel quality and perfected my own journey. At the same time, I enriched my knowledge and experience, deepened my impressions, combining sensory and spiritual enjoyment—this, I feel, is truly a perfect trip, a trip in the true sense. Writing this record, on the other hand, may provide a simple reference for fellow travelers who share the same love of travel. Even if just one person finds it slightly useful, I will be deeply gratified.
