Early Autumn, Fragrant Hills and Temple of Azure Clouds: A Leisurely Tour (Part 1)

Fragrant Hills is all too familiar to Beijingers. Some visit four or five times a week, and some even go every day. Most people head to Fragrant Hills to hike, see the red leaves, exercise, and breathe fresh air, but they know little about its cultural sights. Actually, Fragrant Hills is expansive and rich in content, with numerous historic relics and human landscapes.

Fragrant Hills refers to Fragrant Hills Park, located at the eastern foot of the Western Hills in the northwest suburbs of Beijing, 20 kilometers from the city center. It is a large forested park with imperial garden features. The park was originally built in the 26th year of the Jin Dynasty's Dading reign, giving it a history of over 800 years. During the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, detached palaces were built here as imperial retreats. In the 10th year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing dynasty, pavilions, terraces, halls, and corridors were constructed, creating the renowned Twenty-Eight Scenic Spots of the capital. Later, walls were added and the site was honored with the name 'Jingyi Yuan' (Garden of Tranquility and Suitability), ranking first among the 'Three Hills and Five Gardens' of western Beijing, hence the park is imbued with strong imperial atmosphere.

Thanks to its proximity to the city, convenient transportation, dense woods, tranquil environment, fresh air, and panoramic views of the capital, it is deeply loved by locals. In late autumn, the hills are covered in red leaves, layers of forest dyed in crimson, making it a prime destination for autumn beauty in Beijing.

At the beginning of October, just after the National Day holiday, my wife and I spent two days taking a brief tour of Fragrant Hills, mainly the scenic spots in the lower hill areas.

(This picture is from the Internet)

Day 1: East Gate, Qinzheng Hall, Little White House, Jingcui Lake, Cuiwei Pavilion, Fragrant Hills Temple, Shuangqing Villa, Laiqing Pavilion, Xiabiao Deng, Zhishi Pavilion, Laiqiu Pavilion, Zhao Temple, Jianxin Studio, Glazed Pagoda, Spectacles Lake, cable car up, Xianglu Peak, hike down, Xiangwu Ku, Fragrant Hills Hotel, East Gate.

Day 2: East Gate, Qinzheng Hall, Zhiyuan Studio, Zhisong Garden, Laiqiu Pavilion, Yuhua Temple, Youqiu Pavilion, Duojing Pavilion, Zhao Temple, Spectacles Lake, North Gate, Temple of Azure Clouds, North Gate, Qinzheng Hall, East Gate.

Day 1: Enter through the East Gate.

The parking lot is quite large; climbing a few steps takes just two minutes to reach the East Gate. The East Gate was the main entrance of the original Jingyi Yuan, facing west to east. In front of the gate stand two bronze lions, and the characters 'Fragrant Hills Park' were inscribed by Guo Moruo.

The pair of bronze lions look majestic and fierce, yet their drooping ears make them appear endearingly cute. These Qing-dynasty Qianlong-era bronze lions were long known as 'hanging-paw lions,' because each lion had one paw raised and suspended in mid-air. In fact, like most lions, they are one male and one female. Under the male lion's paw was originally a silk ball, and under the female's paw a cub, but since both were made of bronze, they were stolen and sold as scrap copper. After repairs, they were stolen again, so for a long time people only saw lions with hovering paws. In 2008, welcoming the Olympic Games, professionals restored the 'hanging-paw lions' to their full glory, replacing the silk ball and cub, giving us what we see today. With today's security measures, chances of another theft are slim.

Just inside the gate stands a wooden archway. Its front bears the inscription 'Zhongling Yuxiu' (Nurtured by Nature's Finest), and on the back 'Xiangyuan Yiqing' (Everlasting Fragrance, Increasing Purity). The bracket sets are exquisitely beautiful, the paintings fine and gorgeous, imbued with imperial air.

On the screen wall north of the archway hangs a plaque reading 'Jingyi Yuan (Fragrant Hills), a Beijing Municipal Protected Cultural Heritage Site.' The brick carvings on the screen walls flanking the archway are superb in technique and vivid in form.

Behind the archway is the Crescent Moon River and a stone arch bridge. Crossing the bridge leads to Qinzheng Hall.

Qinzheng Hall was where the Qianlong Emperor handled state affairs and received princes and ministers during his visits. Originally built in the 10th year of Qianlong, it was burned down by Anglo-French forces in 1860. In 2002, it was reconstructed on the original site. Over the front hangs a gold-lettered plaque personally inscribed by Qianlong, 'Qinzheng Hall.' Inside are a horizontal plaque reading 'With Harmony and Joy,' also in Qianlong's calligraphy, and the emperor's gilded throne, along with a carved dragon screen and other furnishings.

Qinzheng Hall has north and south side halls, which used to be rest areas for princes and ministers. Today, the south side hall serves as an exhibition space and shop, while the north side hall has been turned into the park's visitor center.

From Qinzheng Hall, you can go up the hill either to the south or north. The south path leads towards Fragrant Hills Temple and Laiqing Pavilion; the north path goes to the cable car, North Gate, and Temple of Azure Clouds. Numerous intertwining trails on the hill connect, so no matter which way you go, you can reach Xianglu Peak.

The Little White House was originally the 'Green Cloud Boat,' one of the Twenty-Eight Scenic Spots of Jingyi Yuan. After being burned by Anglo-French forces in 1860, the Fragrant Hills Children's Home built a library on the site, commonly known as the 'Little White House.' After the Central Committee of the Communist Party moved into Fragrant Hills, this became the Central Committee Library.

Fragrant Hills Hotel is located within the park, on the site of the largest imperial palace in Jingyi Yuan, the Xulang Studio. Designed by the internationally renowned Chinese-American architect I. M. Pei, the hotel blends classical Chinese architectural art, garden art, and environmental art. Following the mountain's contours, its layout rises and falls, meandering through courtyards intertwined with rocks, lakes, flowers, trees, and white-walled, grey-tiled main buildings—creating a delightful interplay.

If the outside parking lot is full, parking at Fragrant Hills Hotel is a good choice. After your stroll, you can enjoy a meal here. The first floor is more casual; the second-floor Shanhaijing restaurant is relatively upscale, with an elegant atmosphere and excellent food. Aside from being a bit pricey, it's flawless.

Jingcui Lake was formerly 'Daishui Pingshan' (Circling Water, Screen Mountains) in Jingyi Yuan. After restoration, it was named Jingcui Lake. The lake water is crystal clear, and the trees around it are lush and graceful.

A winding path leads deeper into the woods, where the meditation retreat nestles among blossoms and trees.

Cuiwei Pavilion, built during the Qianlong reign, is one of the Twenty-Eight Scenic Spots of Jingyi Yuan.

Wildflowers carpet the hills, and trees soar into the sky.

Yingluo Rock, built in the Ming dynasty, is a man-made rockery with a spring trickling down, producing a delightful gurgling sound. Beside it stands a small pavilion with a plaque reading 'Pure Sound.' Above it is another open pavilion, its plaque bearing the title 'Deep in Green Bamboo,' inscribed by Emperor Kangxi.

Beyond 'Deep in Green Bamboo' stands a wooden archway facing south, with four pillars, three bays, seven roofs, and bracket sets. On the north side is written 'First Tour of the Western Hills,' and on the south 'Crown of the Capital.'

Passing the 'Crown of the Capital' archway brings you to the foot of Fragrant Hills Temple. Here, there is a marble-railed pool called Zhile Hao. Through the weathered carvings on the railings, you can sense the passage of time. This was originally the temple's fish-releasing pond.

About Fragrant Hills Temple: According to records, during the Tang dynasty, two temples—Ji'an Temple and Fragrant Hills Temple—already existed here. In the Southern Song dynasty, the two were merged, and Emperor Zhangzong of the Jin dynasty named it 'Great Yong'an Temple.' In the Yuan dynasty it was rebuilt and renamed 'Ganlu Temple.' In the Ming dynasty it was rebuilt once more and called 'Yong'an Chan Temple.' During the Qianlong reign of the Qing, it was expanded on the original site and bestowed the imperial name 'Great Yong'an Chan Temple,' becoming one of the Twenty-Eight Scenic Spots of Jingyi Yuan. Built against the hillside in an orderly, grand fashion, it was once the foremost among the temples of the Western Hills. In 1860 and 1900, Fragrant Hills Temple was burned by Anglo-French and Eight-Nation Alliance forces, leaving only Zhile Hao, Listening-to-Dharma Pines, the Imperial Stele of the Shala Tree Song, stone screens, and other relics. After five years of restoration, on November 28, 2017, the temple reopened with a completely new appearance.

Fragrant Hills Temple faces east, with its layout rising step by step from east to west along the slope. The Xiangyun Archway can be considered the eastern starting point of the temple.

Steps ascend through ancient towering trees to the Jieyin Buddha Hall, which sits squarely in the center. This hall serves as the entrance gate, with a plaque reading 'Great Yong'an Chan Temple of Fragrant Hills.' Inside, the Jieyin Buddha is enshrined. On either side of the hall are splayed screen walls with fine brick carvings.

Further up, on the north and south sides, stand two ancient pines soaring into the clouds with dense, vigorously twisting branches. Their large limbs stretch out long toward each other, resembling two disciples cupping their hands in respectful listening. The southern pine even leans towards the Buddha hall, and a large rock beside it bears the inscription 'Listening-to-Dharma Pines.'

Above the pines is the Heavenly King Hall. Between the pines and the hall runs a sloping path. A short walk down this slope leads to a famous courtyard—Shuangqing Villa. We decide to visit it first before continuing along Fragrant Hills Temple.

Shuangqing Villa was originally the site of 'Pine Dell Villa,' one of the Twenty-Eight Scenic Spots personally named by Emperor Qianlong. In 1860 and 1900, Pine Dell Villa was looted and burned by Anglo-French and Eight-Nation Alliance forces. In 1917, Xiong Xiling, the fourth Premier of the Republic of China, founded the renowned Fragrant Hills Children's Home and built a villa here dedicated to nurturing talent, which he called 'Shuangqing Villa.'

On March 25, 1949, after the Central Committee of the Communist Party of China and the Central Military Commission moved into Beiping, they lived and worked at Shuangqing Villa. The villa became the command center of the CPC Central Committee and witnessed the path of the Chinese revolution to victory, bearing extraordinary historical significance. It is now a patriotic education base; advance reservation is required for visits.

After visiting Shuangqing Villa, we continue on to Fragrant Hills Temple.

Heavenly King Hall: the central shrine enshrines Maitreya Buddha, flanked by the Four Heavenly Kings, with Skanda at the back.

Behind the Heavenly King Hall, a stone stele is encased in a glass cover, with only its top exposed. This is the 'Song of the Shala Tree' stele, a square monolith commissioned by Emperor Qianlong in the 38th year of his reign. The stele's top features four dragon ridges, and its body is engraved with the 'Song of the Shala Tree' in Manchu, Chinese, Mongolian, and Tibetan scripts. Four finely carved vajra warriors kneel at the corners of the sumeru base, supporting the stele. On the southwest face of the top, Qianlong inscribed a poem about the shala tree: 'The shala tree in Fragrant Hills Temple, planted no one knows when. Its kingfisher-green leaves reach the sky with seven lobes, just like the seven Buddhas' gatha.'

On the south side stands a 'Stele of Gratitude Bestowed upon Yong'an Chan Temple of Fragrant Hills.' Drum and bell towers flank the courtyard. In the middle, on the north and south sides, are two hexagonal mandala halls, which originally housed esoteric Buddhist statues. After restoration, they now display thangkas in place of the original statues.

Above the mandala halls stands a wooden archway, inscribed 'Yong'an' on the east side and 'Ganlu' on the west side, combining the names of the two earlier temple names.

Yuanling Yingxian Hall is the main hall of Fragrant Hills Temple, equivalent to the Mahavira Hall. Entry is barred. In front of the hall stands a marble screen built in the Qianlong period, entirely in white marble. On its east side are engraved the 'Heart Sutra,' 'Diamond Sutra,' and 'Sutra of the Eight Great Realizations,' personally written by Qianlong. On the west side, from left to right, are images of Manjushri, the Ancient Dipamkara Buddha, and Avalokiteshvara, painted in the 14th year of Qianlong.

Yuanling Yingxian Hall is architecturally exquisite and of high status. The roof is covered with yellow glazed tiles trimmed in green, with a grand chiwen on the main ridge and glazed dragon ornaments running the entire ridge. The ridge ornament shines brilliantly: its base is a blue glazed vase, topped by a lotus pedestal, five-tiered rings, a canopy, a crescent moon, and a jeweled finial. On the sloping ridges are seven figurines: after the man on a chicken come dragon, phoenix, lion, heavenly horse, sea horse, suanni, and fish, indicating the building's elevated status.

Behind Yuanling Yingxian Hall is the last group of buildings in Fragrant Hills Temple. Up the steps is a through hall called 'Broadened Horizon.' In usual temple layouts, this would be the site of the sutra library and rear garden. At the center of rockeries stands a three-story, octagonal pavilion with grey tiles and a single-eave pyramid roof, named Tanpu Xianglin Pavilion, somewhat reminiscent of the Tower of Buddhist Incense in the Summer Palace. Each floor has a wraparound veranda and a front plaque. Stone ramps on either side of the pavilion lead up to a hillside hall, while covered walkways along the walls climb to the topmost Qingxia Jiyi Tower.

Exiting Fragrant Hills Temple, we did not continue upward but arrived at the gate of Laiqing Pavilion. In 1949, after the CPC central organs moved into Fragrant Hills, leaders such as Zhu De, Liu Shaoqi, Zhou Enlai, and Ren Bishi lived and worked here. To the east of Laiqing Pavilion is an old mountain gate bearing the plaque 'Lengjia Miaojue.' Passing through this gate, we head downhill.

Xiabiao Deng, situated at the foot of the 'Eighteen Bends,' was built in the Qianlong period and is one of the Twenty-Eight Scenic Spots of Jingyi Yuan. Originally an open pavilion with three bays along the 'Nine Bends and Eighteen Bends' path, here one could watch the rosy sunset clouds rise. Emperor Qianlong wrote a line, 'treading the steps to watch the rising clouds,' hence the name Xiabiao Deng.

Zhishi Pavilion was originally built in the Qing dynasty as a three-tiered hexagonal pavilion. Emperor Qianlong had it constructed to express filial piety to his mother, with a name conveying 'know the time at a glance, act accordingly, follow heaven's will, and cherish time.' The pavilion once housed tribute clocks from various Western countries. The restored pavilion now contains a clock as before, so people may 'know the time' and treasure every moment. On its top tier is an automatic chiming clock, and on the finial is a gilded bronze phoenix wind vane, the golden phoenix spreading its wings in the wind, truly magnificent.

Passing by Laiqiu Pavilion, we stroll amid a sea of pines and cypresses toward Zhao Temple. Amid the greenery, dots of red leaves appear, hinting that autumn has arrived. Among the green woods on the hill, a glazed pagoda suddenly towers into view.

Continuing on, we reach Zhao Temple. Its full name is Zongjing Dazhao Temple, a Gelugpa Tibetan Buddhist monastery. It was built by the Qing court to receive the Sixth Panchen Lama during his visit to Beijing. Along with Xumi Fushou Temple in Rehe and the Yellow Temple in Beijing, it served as the Panchen Lama's seasonal residence during the Qianlong reign.

The glazed archway in front of Zhao Temple is one of ten surviving glazed archways in Beijing. As the highest rank of archways, it is exquisite and majestic, and a iconic image of Fragrant Hills. Both sides' plaques are written in Manchu, Chinese, Mongolian, and Tibetan—a unique feature among all plaques. On the east side is 'Fayuan Yanqing' (Celebration of the Dharma's Origin); on the west side is 'Huizhao Tenghui' (Brilliant Light Radiating Wisdom). The corbel spaces feature six-dragon border decorations. Above the side arches are the most ornate glazed decorations of 'two dragons playing with a pearl.' The stone carvings on the arched doors and bases are all extremely fine. Throughout Zhao Temple, besides exquisite craftsmanship, a strong Tibetan architectural style is apparent.

From Zhao Temple, we walk north across a stone bridge to Jianxin Studio. Jianxin Studio is one of the few buildings in Fragrant Hills that survived the destruction of the Eight-Nation Alliance. Built during the Jiajing reign of the Ming dynasty, it was renovated under Qianlong and Jiaqing. Legend has it that this was where the emperor admonished his officials. It is not part of the Twenty-Eight Scenic Spots but is one of the 'Two Scenic Spots of the Annex,' the other being Zhao Temple.

Jianxin Studio is a garden-within-a-garden with a Jiangnan flavor. Inside, rugged rocks, verdant pines and cypresses, pavilions, terraces, and halls are all embraced by water and hills—a secluded and serene spot.

Following the wall of Jianxin Studio upward, we climb dozens of stone-paved, rugged mountain steps to reach the Glazed Pagoda of Zhao Temple up close. Its full name is the Glazed Longevity Pagoda, built in the 45th year of the Qianlong reign. It is the final group of structures in Zhao Temple, a seven-story, solid, multi-eaved pagoda. Its octagonal sumeru base supports a body with eighty glazed niches for Buddha statues, and copper bells hang from the eaves. The pagoda was damaged by Anglo-French forces, with wooden structures and stone Buddha statues destroyed. It was renovated in 1965 and is now an iconic structure of Fragrant Hills Park. I've learned that only three glazed pagodas remain in Beijing: one in the Summer Palace, one on Jade Spring Hill, and this one in Fragrant Hills—the largest of all.

After viewing the pagoda, we pass Spectacles Lake and head to the Fragrant Hills cable car station to get a bird's-eye view of the hills and Beijing.

Fragrant Hills' lush woods and tranquil environment are loved not only by people but also serve as a paradise for birds. With growing awareness of animal protection, birds have become unafraid of humans, and it's common to see various birds frolicking or foraging, adding to the joy of a visit.

The cable car station is near the North Gate. I hadn't ridden the Fragrant Hills cable car for many years. Such equipment is rarely seen nowadays, but it feels warmly nostalgic, as if returning to childhood. Its biggest advantage is the open design, giving a wide field of vision for easy photography. This was Beijing's first tourist cable car, in operation since 1982, with a one-way trip taking about 18 minutes. Sitting in the cable car, you take in the full beauty of Fragrant Hills and the panoramic view of Beijing.

Jingang Baozuo Pagoda of the Temple of Azure Clouds.

Central TV Tower.

China World Trade Center and China Zun.

Five-colored hills begin to show.

The cable car ends at Chongyang Pavilion, the highest point of Fragrant Hills—Xianglu Peak. This is the best place to overlook the capital. With favorable weather, clear skies, and the afternoon offering the best visibility, from Chongyang Pavilion you can see Beijing in all four directions. Streets are orderly, a few landmark buildings stand out clearly, and there are not many supertall structures, giving the city a poised, dignified feel that fits the ancient capital well.

The Summer Palace and the twin pagodas on Jade Spring Hill dot the green mountains and clear waters. Roads twist like ribbons. As the sun sets, the afterglow bathes the capital, the whole city suffused with rosy clouds, quiet yet passionate, ancient yet youthful, full of vigor and vitality. Standing on the summit of Fragrant Hills, I sigh with emotion: I love you, Beijing.

Trees gradually turn gold and leaves red; Fragrant Hills' most beautiful autumn is about to arrive.

Bathing in the sunset, we walk down the hill. When we pass Xiangwu Ku, it is already closed. Built in the 10th year of Qianlong, Xiangwu Ku is the highest-ranking scenic spot among the Twenty-Eight Scenic Spots of Jingyi Yuan. Nestled halfway up the hill amid green shade, serene and elegant with fragrant plants, it is called 'Cave of Fragrant Mist.' Small archways stand to its east, south, and north; a large archway lies to the west. On the northern slope is the famous 'Sunny Snow on the Western Hills' stele.

By the time we pass Xiaoyou Pavilion, it is completely dark. The trail downhill has no lighting, yet it doesn't feel dark or lonely, as groups of people are constantly descending. It seems hiking Fragrant Hills has become a habit for many Beijingers.

In the evening, we dine at Shanhaijing on the second floor of Fragrant Hills Hotel. The dishes are exquisite, the atmosphere elegant, and the flavors excellent. Aside from being a bit pricey, there's nothing to criticize.