A Secluded, Lesser-Known Royal Temple: Wofo Temple

Wofo Temple Travelogue – An Instagram-Worthy Spot with More Stories to Tell

Autumn in the ancient capital of Beijing is the most beautiful, with clear skies, crisp air, and an invigorating atmosphere. It makes you want to go out and explore this magnificent city... Nestled in the Western Hills, Wofo Temple offers a serene environment, a royal temple with centuries of history, well worth a visit.

We took a bus to the National Botanical Garden Southwest Gate stop, walked north for a few minutes, and entered the garden through the Southwest Gate.

The Southwest Gate of the National Botanical Garden.

National Botanical Garden map.

Autumn scenery inside the National Botanical Garden.

The 40th Parallel North landmark sculpture set against autumn colors. The sculpture uses the 40th parallel as its basic compositional element, stands 5 meters tall, and features a hollow semi-circular design. It is engraved with a world map, the 40°N mark, and representative plants from different temperature zones defined by latitude. The 40th parallel passes through world-famous cities such as New York, Beijing, and Madrid, and this climatic zone is ideal for plant growth and human habitation.

Shifang Pujue Temple (Wofo Temple) faces south with a mountain at its back. It was first built during the Zhenguan reign of the Tang Dynasty (627–649), originally named Doushuai Temple. Over successive dynasties, it fell into disrepair and was restored, changing names with the times. In the 12th year of the Yongzheng reign of the Qing Dynasty, it was renovated and renamed Shifang Pujue Temple. Since the Tang dynasty, there has been a sandalwood-carved reclining Buddha inside, and later in the Yuan dynasty, a giant bronze statue of Shakyamuni in nirvana was cast. As a result, most people call it 'Wofo Temple' (Reclining Buddha Temple). The temple complex is grand in scale and imposing in manner. The halls are towering, trees and flowers lush, hills and ponds reflecting each other, pavilions and verandas shining in interplay. Emperor Yongzheng praised it as 'the foremost scenic spot in the human world' and 'the crown of Buddhist monasteries in the Western Hills.' The architectural layout combines the rigor of a typical temple with garden-like features. From the Shanmen Hall onward, the Heavenly King Hall, the Hall of the Three Buddha, the Reclining Buddha Hall, and the Sutra Repository are located along the central axis. To the east and west of the axis are two courtyards: the East Court (formerly monks' quarters, now the Wofo Mountain Villa) and the West Court (the imperial lodging court, currently closed to the public).

Temple highlights: the bronze reclining Shakyamuni nirvana statue, ancient ginkgo trees (an autumn Instagram spot known as 'Yellow Leaf Temple'), ancient wintersweet (a winter Instagram spot for 'seeking plum blossoms in snow'), the Moon Pond (a uniquely shaped crescent-shaped release pond), and the Arhat of Emperor Qianlong (a temple legend).

Wofo Temple visitor map.

Opening hours: 08:00–16:00 (closed on Mondays, except public holidays).

Admission: Adults: 5 RMB; Students: 2.5 RMB; Free for seniors over 60 with ID.

The first sight at Wofo Temple is the 'Zhiguang Chonglang' archway (Wisdom Light Resplendent). It is a four-column, three-bay, three-roof soaring-column-style archway with a hip roof, gray tube tiles, and vermilion-painted columns. (According to records, there was once a wooden archway here that was demolished in the early post-liberation period due to dilapidation. This archway was rebuilt in 1984 and largely maintains the original appearance.)

The front plaque reads 'Zhiguang Chonglang' (Wisdom Light Resplendent, photo above), and the reverse reads 'Miaojue Hengxuan' (Profound Enlightenment Eternal, photo below).

Passing through the archway, you come to a stone-paved sloping path framed by low walls and lined with ancient cypresses, ascending step by step. The path is divided into three lanes by two rows of ancient cypresses; the middle lane is the original stone-paved ancient path, slightly wider, while the side lanes are narrower. The entire way is composed of dozens of centuries-old cypresses, their towering forms casting dappled shadows, and as the ancient path gradually rises, you feel as if you are walking from the mundane world into a Buddhist realm, instantly evoking a sense of solemn reverence.

Among the towering ancient cypresses, little squirrels occasionally leap and frolic, playing joyfully.

At the end of the cypress-lined slope stands the main gate of Wofo Temple, the 'Tongcan Mizang' archway (the glazed-tile archway), a landmark of the temple. Built in the 48th year of the Qianlong reign (1783), it is a four-column, three-bay, seven-eaves structure with a single-eave hip-and-gable roof covered in yellow glazed tiles. The Sumeru base, pole-holding stones, and arches are carved from white marble, with vermilion walls between the columns. The plaques on the side towers feature a design of two dragons playing with a pearl, while the central tower's plaque is inscribed with the four characters 'Tongcan Mizang' (Together Enter the Secret Storehouse) in Emperor Qianlong's own calligraphy, with 'Juzu Jingyan' (Complete and Sublime) on the reverse.

The glazed-tile archway is magnificent, richly colored, and grand in scale, a true masterpiece within the temple. It is comparable in size to the glazed archways at Xiangshan Zhao Temple, the Guozijian (Imperial Academy), and the Western Paradise of the North Sea, and is one of the most splendid and exquisitely crafted archways in Beijing.

In the 18th year of the Chenghua reign of the Ming Dynasty (1482), Emperor Xianzong ordered the construction of the 'Tathagata Pagoda' at this site, personally writing the 'Shou'an Temple Tathagata Pagoda Inscription.' In the 12th year of the Yongzheng reign of the Qing Dynasty (1734), large-scale renovations began, demolishing the Ming-dynasty Tathagata Relic Pagoda and bestowing the name 'Shifang Pujue Temple.' Another major expansion took place in the 48th year of the Qianlong reign, adding the imperial lodge courtyard and the splendid glazed-tile archway.

The plaque on the glazed archway in Emperor Qianlong's calligraphy, framed by ten golden dragons playing with pearls.

The side tower's panel with two dragons playing with a pearl.

The white marble arch of the archway, carved with exquisite lotus throne, Mount Sumeru, and Baoxiang flowers (with a yin-yang symbol at the center) encircling the arch.

Plaques for the Beijing Municipal Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit and the National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit.

Passing through the archway, you enter the Bell and Drum Tower Courtyard. In the center is a crescent-shaped stone-lined pond, known as the Moon Pond. A delicate single-arch white marble bridge spans the middle of the pond, perfectly aligned with the temple's central axis. On both sides beyond the bridge are lawns and wintersweet flower beds.

To the east and west of the pond's north side, following the 'morning bell, evening drum' tradition, stands the Bell Tower on the east and the Drum Tower on the west in front of the Shanmen Hall. Both towers are square, 6.2 meters wide, with a double-eave hip-and-gable gray-tiled roof, rising to a height of 8.1 meters.

Inside the Bell Tower hangs an iron bell cast in the 29th year of the Wanli reign of the Ming Dynasty (1601). The bell is elegantly shaped and produces a clear, melodious tone; it is an important historical relic of the temple.

The Moon Pond is the temple's release pond, also called the 'Merit Pond.' It contains released goldfish and turtles.

The release pond often has 'thieves' visiting: first observing from a tree by the pond, then landing on the railing to pick a target, then diving in...

Crossing the stone bridge, directly north is the Shanmen Hall of Wofo Temple. The hall is three bays wide with a gray-tube-tile hip-and-gable roof. Above the central door hangs a plaque reading 'Shifang Pujue Temple.' Original inscription by Emperor Yongzheng of the Qing, the current plaque was re-inscribed by Zhao Puchu, President of the Buddhist Association of China. Inside the hall, flanking the sides, are clay-colored statues of the two 'Hum and Ha' guardians. Unlike other temples, these two figures are seated, not standing. They are the protective deities of Buddhism.

Plaque re-inscribed by President Zhao Puchu.

Small gates open to the east and west of the Shanmen Hall, so with the central gate, the three gates stand side by side, hence the hall is also called the 'Three-Gate Hall.'

A paved path runs from the Shanmen Hall all the way to the Reclining Buddha Hall, forming the central axis of the temple's layout.

The Heavenly King Hall is located north of the Shanmen Hall, the second hall of Wofo Temple, connected by the paved path. It is three bays wide with a gray-tube-tile hip-and-gable roof. Inside, a clay and lacquer-gilt Maitreya Buddha sits in the center, with a wooden lacquer-gilt standing Weituo guardian behind, said to be a Ming Dynasty relic. On either side are giant clay-colored seated statues of the Four Heavenly Kings.

Exquisite gilded double-dragon Hexi-style paintings on the beams and lintels inside the hall.

To the east of the Heavenly King Hall is a cluster of ancient wintersweet, planted during the Tang Zhenguan period over a thousand years ago and commonly known as the 'Foremost Wintersweet of the Capital.' The temple has dozens of wintersweet clumps. In winter snow, their fragrant, delicate blossoms create a spectacular capital winter scene, drawing people to 'seek plum blossoms in snow.'

The ancient wintersweet bears a red label reading 'Ancient and Famous Tree' issued by the Beijing Municipal Bureau of Landscape and Forestry.

On the east and west sides of the paved path in front of the Heavenly King Hall stand two steles. The eastern one is the 'Stele for the Reconstruction of Pujue Temple in the Western Hills,' inscribed by Wang Zeji, son of Wang Xitong (the 'Cement King' of the Republic of China) and a senator in the Republic of China Senate. It recounts the reasons and process of the temple's reconstruction during the Republican era.

The paved path north of the Heavenly King Hall leads to the Hall of the Three Buddha.

The Hall of the Three Buddha is the main building of the temple, equivalent to the Mahavira Hall in many temples, and the largest structure. It is five bays wide and three bays deep, with a single-eave hip-and-gable roof of yellow glazed tiles trimmed with green. Inside, wooden lacquer-gilt statues of the Three Buddhas are enshrined: from east to west, the Medicine Buddha, Shakyamuni, and Amitabha, reportedly Tang Dynasty relics and among the oldest sculptures in the Western Hills. Along the east and west walls are seated clay-colored statues of the eighteen arhats. Behind the Three Buddhas, facing Mount Shou'an, is a 'reversed Guanyin' statue, recently restored, with a kind expression and natural posture. Her robe is intricately decorated using the traditional 'gold peeling' technique: gold leaf is applied as a base, then pigments are painted on top, patterns are outlined, and parts of the pigment are peeled away to reveal the gold underneath, creating a unique decorative effect.

Outside the Hall of the Three Buddha hangs a plaque reading 'Shuanglin Suijing' (Profound Realm of Twin Trees) in Emperor Qianlong's calligraphy, flanked by his couplet: 'Green bamboo and yellow flowers, the Zen forest reveals the emptiness of form; jeweled canopies and beaded nets, the Brahma temple is wondrously sublime.' (The current couplet was inscribed by Aisin Gioro Pu Jie.)

The plaque 'Shuanglin Suijing' in Emperor Qianlong's calligraphy, framed by sixteen golden dragons.

Among the eighteen clay-colored arhats inside the Hall of the Three Buddha, one stands out: seventeen are dressed in monk's robes, but the one in the southeast corner wears a dragon robe and has a flowing beard, looking majestic like an elderly monarch. Why such an image in Wofo Temple? According to local Xiangshan legend, this arhat was modeled on Emperor Qianlong. Believing himself to be a divine ruler with profound Buddhist learning and a reincarnated arhat, Qianlong ordered his own image enshrined here. However, some say it is Emperor Yongzheng. Since Wofo Temple was once the family temple of Prince Yunxiang by imperial decree, the family might have enshrined the emperor's image to show gratitude—a plausible story.

Golden resplendent Hexi-style paintings on the beams and lintels of the Hall of the Three Buddha.

In front of the Hall of the Three Buddha is a small moon platform, with a stele on each side, both mounted on tortoise-shaped pedestals and topped with hornless dragon crowns. The eastern stele is the 'Imperial Stele of the Shifang Pujue Temple' from the 12th year of the Yongzheng reign (1734), with a poem by Emperor Qianlong on the reverse. The western stele is a poem stele from Qianlong's visit in the 48th year (1785).

The Jialan Hall (Protectors of the Monastery Hall) is the east side hall of the Hall of the Three Buddha. Inside, King Prasenajit sits in the center, flanked by Prince Jeta on his left and the Elder Anathapindada on his right. On the north side is a statue of Guan Yu with his son Guan Ping on his left and Zhou Cang on his right. On the south side is a seated Weituo statue.

Plaque of 'Jialan Hall' in Emperor Qianlong's calligraphy.

The Zushi Hall (Patriarchs Hall) is the west side hall. In the center is Bodhidharma, the first patriarch of Chan Buddhism, flanked by the second patriarch Huike on his left and the third patriarch Sengcan on his right. On the north side is the sixth patriarch Huineng, and on the south side is Baizhang Huaihai.

Plaque of 'Zushi Hall' in Emperor Qianlong's calligraphy.

The ceilings of the side halls are decorated with painted flat checks, and the beams feature gilded double-dragon Hexi-style paintings.

On the east side of the Hall of the Three Buddha hangs a bronze bell cast by Hongxiao, the second Prince Yi of the Qing Dynasty. The bell is 1.31 meters high with a mouth diameter of 0.88 meters, a perfectly preserved ancient bell in Beijing's Wofo Temple. Bells are Buddhist instruments struck to gather monks for ceremonies. Buddhists believe ringing bells can relieve affliction and bring blessings. In Chinese folk tradition, striking bells is a custom for peace, blessings, and longevity.

Inscription on the ancient bell.

To the east and west of the Hall of the Three Buddha stand two thousand-year-old ginkgo trees, each with a trunk girth of over 5 meters and a canopy covering over 100 square meters. They are surrounded by white marble balustrades with lotus-bud capitals, reportedly installed during the Qianlong-era renovations in 1783. In late autumn, yellow leaves flutter and carpet the ground, giving Wofo Temple the nickname 'Yellow Leaf Temple.'

The ancient ginkgo tree east of the Hall of the Three Buddha.

Signage for the ancient ginkgo tree as a protected famous tree.

The ancient ginkgo tree west of the Hall of the Three Buddha.

Signage for the ancient ginkgo tree as a protected famous tree.

The Reclining Buddha Hall stands behind the Hall of the Three Buddha, the fourth hall on the central axis. It is three bays wide with a single-eave hip-and-gable roof, green glazed tiles edged in yellow. Inside is the temple's main bronze reclining Buddha.

On a treasure bed inside the hall lies the bronze reclining Buddha cast under Emperor Yingzong of the Yuan Dynasty. The statue measures 5.3 meters long, 1.6 meters high, and weighs about 500,000 jin. (The History of Yuan records: 500,000 jin of bronze smelted, over ten thousand workers, ten years of construction [including earlier phases], five million taels of silver spent.)

The Buddha's head faces west, body lying south, in a lateral reclining posture. His legs are stretched out, his right arm bent to support his head, left hand resting naturally on his thigh, all resting on a lotus throne carved from white marble. His expression is serene and natural, simple yet exquisite, embodying the purifying, solemn style of Buddhist art. Behind him stand the twelve enlightened disciples of Shakyamuni, their expressions solemn and composed, holding lotus flowers and bowing their heads.

In a display case beside the reclining Buddha are several pairs of huge shoes, offerings from various Qing emperors.

Above the door of the Reclining Buddha Hall hangs a plaque reading 'Xingyue Hengming' (Eternal Brightness of Dharma Nature) inscribed by Empress Dowager Cixi. Flanking the door are couplets: 'Arouse Bodhi mind to realize all dharmas as wish-fulfilling' and 'Manifest the longevity form to deliver all sentient beings,' inscribed by Mr. Pu Jie.

The plaque 'Xingyue Hengming' in Empress Dowager Cixi's calligraphy, measuring 1.5 meters wide and 0.45 meters high, with her seal 'Imperial Brush Treasure of the Empress Dowager Cixi' at the top center. 'Xing' refers to 'Dharma nature,' or 'Suchness.' The Awakening of Faith in the Mahayana holds that the source of all phenomena arises from the one true mind, the so-called 'Suchness-conditioned arising.' Thus, dharma nature is the 'one mind,' and the whole phrase means dharma nature is as eternally bright as the moon.

Inside the Reclining Buddha Hall hangs a plaque reading 'De Da Zizai' (Attaining Great Freedom), inscribed by Emperor Qianlong. It originally hung outside the hall. During the Guangxu period, Empress Dowager Cixi and Emperor Guangxu visited Wofo Temple to offer incense. Cixi wrote 'Xingyue Hengming' for the Reclining Buddha Hall, after which her plaque was installed outside and Qianlong's plaque was moved inside.

Golden resplendent Hexi-style paintings on the beams of the Reclining Buddha Hall.

The blank steles on either side of the platform in front of the Reclining Buddha Hall.

The Sutra Repository, situated behind the Reclining Buddha Hall, is the last building in the temple. It is five bays wide, with a front colonnade, double-eave flush-gable roof with ridge-end ornamental spines, and gray tube tiles. There are three-bay north side rooms to the east and west. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, Wofo Temple was famous not only for its reclining Buddha but also for its sutra collection.

To the east of the Sutra Repository stands an old tree with a short, thick trunk covered in knobby gall-like growths. On closer look—wow! It’s a centuries-old pagoda tree.

The ancient pagoda tree's protected famous tree signage.

Many ancient trees in the temple bear tags showing they are adopted by caring individuals.

On either side of the central axis halls are north-south side paths. Beyond the east wall is the former monks’ quarters, which include the Great Refectory, Great Meditation Hall, Jiyue Pavilion, Qingliang Hall, and Zutang Courtyard, all in traditional courtyard style. Now it is the Wofo Mountain Villa. Beyond the west wall is the imperial lodge courtyard for royals on excursions, currently closed to visitors.

Varied small gates set in the red walls on the east and west sides.

Ancient trees beyond the red walls.

Auspicious beasts painted on the temple beams to ward off evil and bring good luck.

Persimmons in the temple symbolize 'all things as you wish.'

Side rooms on the east of the central axis have been converted into the 'De Da Tea House' for visitors to rest and enjoy tea.