July 2015 Detailed DIY Beijing Travel Guide

Beijing, the capital of China, is a place we all yearn to visit.

Before setting off, I read through many travelogues and guides written by previous travelers, which helped me a lot. So after returning from Beijing, I decided to write one myself—partly as a keepsake of this trip, and partly to offer a little reference for friends planning or soon to travel to Beijing.

As for this Beijing trip, I started preparations as early as late May after buying the train tickets, because I was traveling with the whole family—old and young. So this was the most thoroughly prepared independent trip I’ve ever taken.

Buying tickets: Train tickets can be purchased two months in advance now. So if you’re traveling by train, once your travel date is fixed, book your tickets as early as possible. The sooner you buy, the more choices you’ll have—for example, a family can be in the same compartment, plus options like bed preferences. Comparatively, soft sleeper tickets are still in high demand.

Because I planned early, I bought the 1504 train tickets from Lianyungang East to Beijing at the end of May. This train departs in the evening and arrives the next morning. I got a hard sleeper—haha, sleep on the train and you’ll be there by daybreak.

Booking a hotel: After securing the train tickets, you can book your accommodation in Beijing. After screening and comparing, I finally booked Beijing Jiadejia Express Hotel on eLong. Let me explain the principle: prioritize convenient transport—the closer to a subway station, the better, and subway beats bus. Why? Because subways don’t get stuck in traffic, while buses do. In Beijing, apart from the Great Wall, which is far from the city center (in the suburban countryside), all major attractions are reachable by subway. Even if there’s no direct line, you can transfer. And when transferring, you don’t need to exit the station; you can transfer inside. Just be aware that transferring to another line can involve a long walk—really long. Don’t worry about getting lost; signs in the stations are very clear, just follow them.

Other preparations: ID card (for hotel check-in, and sometimes railway police on the train may check it). Some Beijing attractions offer discounts for seniors over 60, such as the Forbidden City and the Great Wall. Bank card (for emergencies). Band-aids. Anti-heatstroke medicine (like Huoxiang Zhengqi Water, Shidi Water etc.). Mosquito repellent oil. Chargers for all your electronic devices. Toiletries, extra clothes, etc.

Since I prepared my itinerary in advance, our whole trip in Beijing followed my plan exactly. Below I’ll detail it day by day.

July 12: At 17:29, the 1504 train from Lianyungang East to Beijing departed on time.

After a bumpy night, we arrived at Beijing Station on July 13 at 8:40 am (25 minutes late).

Right after exiting the station, we headed to the subway station at Beijing Station (turn left from the exit and go straight). There’s a row of windows at the subway entrance where you can get a Beijing Municipal Transportation Card (see photo below).

I feel it’s very necessary to get one. You can use it for subway, bus, and the train to Badaling. Although there’s no discount on the subway (bus and Badaling train offer a discount with the card), it saves the hassle of buying tickets. Remember, each person must have their own card; you can’t share one card between two people. During our 5 days in Beijing, we averaged about 70 RMB per person on the card. No need to load too much at once, because you can top up at any subway station. One thing to note: not every subway station handles card refunds, so find out in advance which ones do, so you can return it right before you leave.

Cards in hand, we passed security, entered the station, took Line 2 to Chaoyangmen, transferred to Line 6 to Ping’anli Station, Exit A, and after about a 3-minute walk we arrived at our temporary Beijing home for five days – Beijing Jiadejia Express Hotel. The hotel is super close to Ping’anli subway station—just a 2-3 minute walk from Exit A. Qingfeng Steamed Buns Shop is right downstairs, and across the street is Beijing’s famous Huguosi Snack Street. The Huguosi bus stop is right at the hotel entrance. A taxi from the hotel to Beijing North Station cost only 13 RMB. The hotel facilities are a bit dated, but the Wi-Fi was okay. Overall, I was quite satisfied—it’s economical and practical.

At the hotel, we dropped our luggage and went downstairs to Qingfeng for some buns and porridge.

Huguosi Snack Street right opposite the hotel.

Next door, the famous… you know, see for yourself?

Then we started our first stop of the trip – Temple of Heaven:

Take Metro Line 6 to Dongsi, transfer to Line 5 to Tiantan Dongmen (Temple of Heaven East Gate). A 50-meter walk and you’re there.

Temple of Heaven combo ticket: adults 35 RMB, children 28 RMB. I recommend the combo ticket; the main sights within the Temple of Heaven require a ticket to enter.

After exploring, we exited through the East Gate, took Metro Line 5 to Dongdan, transferred to Line 1 to Tiananmen East, went through an underpass, and arrived at Tiananmen Square.

The incredibly spacious Tiananmen Square.

The Monument to the People’s Heroes. It bears Chairman Mao’s handwritten inscription: “The People’s Heroes Are Immortal.”

The square building behind the monument is the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall.

We originally planned to visit Qianmen Street on the way, but on July 13 it was scorching hot (the weather forecast said 40°C!), so we gave up and took Metro Line 2 from Qianmen Station to Xuanwumen, transferred to Line 4 to Ping’anli, and went back to the hotel. That was Day 1.

Perhaps the heavens feared we’d suffer too much, because on the night of the 13th it rained heavily—how heavy? No idea. But when we woke up, the ground was damp and the temperature was noticeably cooler.

July 14 itinerary: Badaling – Dingling

There are two ways to get to Badaling Great Wall: one is to take the direct train from Beijing North Station; the other is bus 877 from Deshengmen, which runs on an expressway. We chose the train, so I’ll focus on that.

We got up around 5:10 am, freshened up, and took a taxi from the hotel to Beijing North Station—not far, 13 RMB.

We swiped cards, went through security, and entered the waiting hall. On the left side there’s a prominent sign: “→ Train to Badaling”. Follow the arrow, walk to the ticket check area, and wait there. Because the Badaling train has no assigned seats, you must arrive early and line up to secure a seat. It’s about an hour’s ride, and standing can be tiring. The first train departs at 6:12 am. Around 6:00, staff arrived and opened the gate. The moment they did, everyone who’d been queuing started running—why? To grab seats! We were at the front and got seats as we’d hoped. Haha, a little sense of achievement!

At the ticket check gate, queue right under this electronic screen.

Grand departure for Badaling.

A note: On the train they sell bottled water (2 RMB a bottle), instant noodles in a bowl (6 RMB), with hot water available—good for those who didn’t have breakfast. Small bread rolls (8 RMB a pack). The prices felt reasonable. We bought water, noodles, and bread on the train; we ate the noodles right there and took the rest with us for climbing the Wall—things are expensive at the scenic spot!

After about an hour and a half, the train reached Badaling. Curiously, the train stopped, then reversed and shunted back quite a way before finally stopping at Badaling Station. They say this is Zhan Tianyou’s switchback track design. We got to experience it today—nice!

Enter the building under the big “Badaling Station” sign and swipe your card again to exit.

From Badaling Station, there’s a stretch to the climbing area. A free shuttle bus runs. Once onboard, the attendant will say it takes 4–5 hours to hike up and it’s very tiring, suggesting you take the slideway or cable car. The free shuttle has two stops. I strongly recommend getting off at the first stop. The terminus is where the slideway and cable car are; if you want to hike, you’ll walk extra if you get off there. Of course, if you really don’t want to walk, take the slideway or cable car. At the first stop, you’ll see signs everywhere on walls and ground saying “Climbing Direction” etc. Follow them and you’ll soon spot the ticket office.

Badaling Great Wall adult ticket: 40 RMB. Discounts for children and seniors over 60.

After the ticket check, right at the entrance you’ll see signs pointing to South and North. The North section is relatively gentler, so most visitors climb the North side, and we were no exception. But don’t rush up North just yet—head a few steps up the South side first. The Heroes Monument is there waiting for your photo. Once you’ve taken the picture, come back and climb the North side.

We climbed from North Tower 1 all the way to North Tower 12. Including breaks and photos, it took 2.5 hours. We reached Bear Park just before 11:00 am. Completely not the exaggerated 4–5 hours the shuttle attendant claimed! And we didn’t even walk fast.

Below is a sketch of North 1 to North 12:

The magnificent Great Wall stretching for miles.

The cable car at Badaling.

Visitors making the climb.

There are many side paths between North 1 and North 12; if you don’t want to go on, you can exit anytime or simply turn back. We descended from Tower 12, which leads down to Badaling Bear Park. Walk further and you’ll reach the parking lot, where bus 877 back to the city is waiting. Just get on if you’re returning, and you can use your transportation card.

See the people queuing to board? That’s bus 877 back to the city. Bus 879 to Dingling is about 10 meters further ahead.

A note: Among the North towers, Tower 8 is the highest point. After Tower 8, it’s all downhill, much steeper than before, and some sections have no steps—more like a smooth slide, very slippery. Visitors with elderly or kids should think carefully.

Steep sections of the Wall; most people go down gripping the railing.

There are almost no toilets while climbing Badaling (I saw a toilet sign near the snack shop around North Tower 7, but we didn’t go, so I can’t say exactly where). Make sure you use the toilet before starting your climb.

Past the parking lot, cross a narrow road, and you’ll see another line of people waiting for bus 879 to the Ming Tombs. Our destination was Dingling, the second-to-last stop. Bus 879 runs infrequently, about every half hour. We boarded and after roughly 75 minutes reached Dingling parking lot. On bus 879 everyone gets a seat, so no worries—once it’s full, the conductor won’t let more on.

Buy tickets and visit Dingling Underground Palace.

Dingling entrance ticket: adults 65 RMB, discounts for children and seniors over 60.

Dingling is the tomb of Emperor Wanli of the Ming Dynasty. I didn’t take photos inside the underground palace. If you’re interested, stop by when you go to Badaling.

After visiting the underground palace, there’s a museum on one side of the square displaying artifacts excavated from Dingling. It’s free if you’re curious.

Then go back to the parking lot and take bus 872 (the same spot where you got off 879) back to the city, terminating at Deshengmen.

Note: If you plan to visit Dingling after the Great Wall, no matter whether you take the train or bus, you must leave early in the morning to catch the earliest departure. That way, you’ll have plenty of time and won’t feel rushed. Plus, in summer, climbing the Wall early is cooler. Don’t you agree?

Bus 872 also takes about 1.5 hours to Deshengmen. I dozed off on the ride back—probably too tired, hehe.

At Deshengmen, cross the road; behind a police kiosk, go down some steps to a bus stop and take bus 409 to Huguosi Station, right by the hotel.

In the evening, we went to Bianyifang near Qianmen and had a big feast—Peking duck.

The chef slicing the duck.

After eating and drinking our fill, we strolled along Qianmen Street before heading back, making up for the little regret from Day 1.

Take Metro Line 2 to Xuanwumen, transfer to Line 4 to Ping’anli, Exit A, back to hotel.

“He who has never been to the Great Wall is not a true man; he who doesn’t eat Peking duck will leave with regrets.” Today we did both! Haha~~

July 15 itinerary: Summer Palace – Yuanmingyuan – Tsinghua University

From Ping’anli, take Metro Line 4 to Xiyuan Station, Exit C2. Walk west along Tongqing Street for about 500 meters, and you’ll see a decorated archway, as pictured below.

Walk around the archway, cross a road, and you’ll face the East Gate of the Summer Palace, which is the main entrance.

Summer Palace admission 30 RMB (non-combo). Discounts for students and seniors over 60.

Our sightseeing order: East Palace Gate – Hall of Benevolence and Longevity – Garden of Virtue and Harmony – Hall of Jade Ripples – Yiyun Pavilion – Hall of Joyful Longevity – Long Corridor (walk halfway along the corridor to Paiyun Gate) – take a boat from Paiyun Gate to the other side of Kunming Lake – Seventeen-Arch Bridge – Bronze Ox – then walk all the way along the embankment, pass through the Long Corridor again to its end – Marble Boat – exit via North Ruyi Gate.

An elderly man painting with a large brush dipped in water.

Behind my son is the Hall of Jade Ripples, where Empress Dowager Cixi placed Emperor Guangxu under house arrest. There are side chambers on both sides, but their doors were all bricked up—take a close look when you visit.

This tree has a story behind it.

View of Seventeen-Arch Bridge from afar.

The pagoda in the distance is the Tower of Buddhist Incense on Longevity Hill.

We exited the Summer Palace through this gate.

After exiting, turn right and walk straight for about 7–8 minutes to a bus stop. Many buses go to Yuanmingyuan; as long as the bus stops there, just hop on.

Adult ticket: 25 RMB (combo). Discounts for children and seniors over 60.

To be honest, Yuanmingyuan isn’t that impressive—it’s basically a huge park. The ruins park is a pile of rubble, but there you can see with your own eyes the iconic image we’ve seen in books and on TV—the Great Fountain (Dashuifa). That’s about it!

Plaque on Yuanmingyuan’s main gate.

Inside the ruins park.

The landmark of Yuanmingyuan – Dashuifa.

After touring the ruins park, circle back to the gate you entered, turn left, and look up—you’ll see the West Gate of Tsinghua University. Unfortunately, that day Tsinghua was holding its graduation ceremony, so we couldn’t get in. Just took a photo at the gate, a slight regret.

We took Metro Line 4 back to the hotel. After a short rest, we headed out again in the late afternoon. Destination: Nanluoguxiang and Houhai.

From Ping’anli Station, take Line 6 two stops to Nanluoguxiang, Exit E, and you’re right there. Both sides of the alley are lined with quirky little shops.

We just took a brief walk and then made our way directly to Houhai. Compared to the hustle and bustle of Nanluoguxiang, it’s quieter here.

Street performers singing along Houhai.

At dusk, locals swimming and cooling off in Houhai.

The calm “sea” surface.

A few ducklings paddling contentedly…

This is also a haven for anglers.

By the time we’d wandered here, night had fallen, so we went to the nearest Beihai North Gate Station, took Metro Line 4 one stop, and returned to the hotel.

July 16 itinerary: Forbidden City – Jingshan Park – Beihai Park

Take Metro Line 4 to Xidan, transfer to Line 1 to Tiananmen West. After exiting, walk east about 100 meters, pass security, and you’ll be under Tiananmen Rostrum.

Visitors queuing for security checks.

In preparation for the September 3rd military parade, Tiananmen Rostrum was wrapped for renovation, leaving only Chairman Mao’s portrait visible.

Cross the Golden Water Bridge and you reach the main gate of the Forbidden City – the Meridian Gate.

Forbidden City, adult ticket 60 RMB, discounts for children and seniors.

Armed police vehicle parked outside the Meridian Gate.

You can pre-purchase Forbidden City tickets online; at the entrance there’s a dedicated lane where you just scan your ID card to enter, saving the ticket queue. But if you use ID entry, there’s no paper ticket. Actually, the Forbidden City has many ticket windows, so buying on-site is also fast and doesn’t take much time.

Our sightseeing order in the Forbidden City: first walk the central axis all the way to the Imperial Garden, then switch to the eastern line. The Treasure Gallery is on the east line (10 RMB). The Nine-Dragon Screen is inside the Treasure Gallery; Beijing has two Nine-Dragon Screens, the other is in Beihai Park. Concubine Zhen’s Well is also in the Treasure Gallery, near the exit. Finally, tour the western line, heading north back to the Imperial Garden, and exit through the Gate of Divine Prowess.

The Forbidden City is huge; we spent about 6 hours. Near the Meridian Gate entrance, you can rent an electronic guide. For independent travelers, I recommend getting one. No deposit needed, fee is 20 RMB each. The guide auto-senses and automatically narrates at each spot. Plus, it explains almost all the treasures in the Treasure Gallery—really nice. Remember, you must return the guide when exiting; you can’t take it out.

After visiting, exit through this gate.

Jingshan Park is right across.

After leaving the Gate of Divine Prowess, turn left and walk about 30 meters, cross via the underpass, and you’re at Jingshan Park.

Two reasons to visit Jingshan Park: 1) see the crooked tree where Emperor Chongzhen hanged himself; 2) enjoy a panoramic view of the Forbidden City from the hilltop.

Upon entering Jingshan Park, turn right immediately, walk about 240 meters along the path, and you’ll reach the spot where Emperor Chongzhen died for his country.

Follow the small trail upward from there—soon, maybe ten minutes, you’ll reach the pavilion at the summit.

From here you can take in the full panorama of the Forbidden City.

The white pagoda in the distance is Beihai Park.

On the western side of the pavilion, a trail leads down. When you hit a paved road, turn right and walk to exit Jingshan Park, then continue straight for over 200 meters to Beihai Park.

I didn’t notice at the time, but back then we bought a combo ticket for Beihai Park, 20 RMB per person, child discount available, no discount for age 60—discounts might be for seniors over 70. If you want to see the White Pagoda up close, you need the combo ticket. Honestly, it’s not really necessary; viewing from below is enough.

“Let us row the oars, the little boat pushes through the waves, the beautiful White Pagoda is reflected on the lake, surrounded by green trees and red walls…” This song must be familiar, right? Beihai Park is the inspiration for that song.

After leaving Beihai Park, we went back to the hotel to rest. As night fell, we headed to Xidan for a stroll—just take Metro Line 4 to Xidan Station.

Even in the capital Beijing, the nationwide square-dancing craze is alive and well.

July 17 itinerary: Chairman Mao Memorial Hall – National Museum of China – Prince Gong’s Mansion – Bird’s Nest & Water Cube – Wangfujing Pedestrian Street

We woke up to light rain. This was our last day in Beijing.

Take Metro Line 4 to Xidan, transfer to Line 1 to Tiananmen West, pass security, and enter Tiananmen Square. For the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall, only wallets and phones are allowed—nothing else. So remember, before queuing, you must store your bags. The storage is across the street from the side of the Memorial Hall (I think the east side, but I got disoriented, sorry). The number of visitors paying respects was beyond “many.” We walked non-stop with the crowd for about 1.5 hours before even entering the hall. In front of the hall, there’s another security check: take out wallets and phones and place them in a small tray. Near the entrance corridor, there are white chrysanthemums for sale, 10 RMB for three stems—you may buy them to offer to Chairman Mao if you wish. Not mandatory.

You enter from one door, walk and look, but cannot stop; you exit from another door in less than a minute.

After leaving the Memorial Hall, we retrieved our bags and headed to the National Museum of China, very close by. Despite the downpour, the queue was still long. We waited about 40 minutes to get in. Remember: for the National Museum, you must bring your ID card. Place it on the reader and in about 10 seconds a ticket pops out—haha, your name is printed right on it. Stylish~~

At the entrance, there’s another extremely strict security check—almost a body search.

Truly worthy of its name, the National Museum is grand and classy.

Exhibition hall layout guide.

After the museum, we went straight to Prince Gong’s Mansion. Take Metro Line 1 to Xidan, transfer to Line 4 to Ping’anli, then Line 6 to Beihai North Gate Station. Exit and walk through a hutong—it’s very close to the station.

Prince Gong’s Mansion, adult ticket 40 RMB, discounts for children and seniors over 60.

This mansion was the residence of He Shen, Emperor Qianlong’s favorite minister. You probably know about him, so I won’t elaborate.

See that? The windows on the wall are all different shapes; it’s said He Shen could tell what treasures were hidden inside each room based on the window shape.

People queuing to touch the Lucky Fu character engraved by Emperor Kangxi inside the rockery—remember to quickly stuff your hands in your pockets afterward to bring the luck home!

From Prince Gong’s Mansion, take Line 4 from Beihai North Gate Station one stop to Nanluoguxiang, transfer to Line 8 to Olympic Sports Center Station. There you’ll find the Bird’s Nest and Water Cube.

The building in the background is the Pangu Seven-Star Hotel.

The main stadium of the 2008 Beijing Olympics – Bird’s Nest.

The tower in the distance is Linglong Pagoda.

In the evening, we went to Wangfujing Pedestrian Street.

Finally, a family photo of the three of us.

As I write this, the travelogue is about to end. Here, I want to thank everyone who helped us during our 7-day trip in Beijing. Although I love Beijing’s Tiananmen, I love you all even more.

Goodbye, Beijing!