Autumn in Beijing: Romantic Splendor beneath Red Walls and Golden Leaves, so Brilliant and Enchanting
Famous writer Lao She once said, "You must live in Beijing in autumn. I don't know what heaven looks like, but from my life experience, the autumn of Beiping is heaven itself." Because I read this sentence and it etched itself into my heart, I chose to come to Beijing in the most beautiful golden October to witness just how stunning Beijing's autumn truly is!
A Beijing autumn travel guide – this one article covers it all!
As everyone knows, Beijing is the heart of China. It is the capital of the People's Republic of China, a municipality directly under the central government, a national central city, and a megacity. Every day, tourists from all over the country come here to sightsee and explore. I remember when I was about six years old, I followed my parents to Beijing to visit relatives. At that time, Beijing felt so big, so vast!
Now when I come to Beijing, it still feels huge, so huge that I sometimes lose my bearings. That's why I don't come often – as a directionally challenged person, I'm afraid of getting lost.
You must go to Beijing in autumn, because this season is the most suitable for travel. There's no wind, no rain, the weather is neither cold nor hot, and the sun shines warmly all day long. Ginkgo trees turn yellow, maple leaves turn red, and the essence of autumn saturates this thousand-year-old ancient capital. Beijing is at its most enchanting at this time.
The beauty of nature combined with a thousand years of history is truly intoxicating. A city with over three thousand years of history, Beijing has witnessed countless stories. Even though people change, the scenery remains the same, and the cycle of the four seasons continues unchanged. It’s as if the city is whispering endless tales spanning millennia.
In recent years (2007, 2008, 2009, 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020), I've visited Beijing for travel, study, business, visiting relatives, and meeting friends no fewer than seven times. Although that's not a particularly low number, I am still a stranger to Beijing. After all, I've lived in the south for too long and have long become unaccustomed to the northern way of life and environment.
Every time I came to Beijing, it was always in a hurry, just passing through. I never really took the time to explore properly. This time, I plan to visit all the major sights in Beijing and fulfill a long-held wish.
My itinerary: Beijing's Forbidden City – Olympic Park – Forbidden City – Mutianyu Great Wall in Huairou District – Jingshan Park, Beihai Park – South Street Ancient Alleys – Bird's Nest – Shichahai – Xiangshan (Fragrant Hills) – Tiananmen Square. Roughly these places, I’ll stroll, look, take photos, and start a slow exploration of Beijing.
1. Autumn at the Forbidden City
My first stop was Beijing's Forbidden City!
People say: Beijing's best spot for enjoying autumn – the Forbidden City, beautiful like the old imperial palace, with red walls, yellow tiles, and colorful leaves – the capital's most beautiful autumn scenery!
The autumn of the Forbidden City is a splendor that has endured six hundred years of history, yet is vividly present before your eyes.
Beneath the over thirty-meter-high walls, across the moat, looking up at the towering walls and gazing at the majestic corner towers, the sky is brilliantly blue, the water a deep blue, and the vegetation turns golden. Rarely is the Forbidden City so brightly enchanting.
Colorful leaves paired with red walls and yellow tiles gild this city with a layer of gold. The autumn scenery of the Forbidden City is absolutely unmissable. In autumn, every plant, brick, and tile here is imbued with poetry. There are many ginkgo trees, their leaves turned a golden-yellow hue, growing within the red palace walls. Just imagine how beautiful that scene must be!
Standing on the high steps of the grand halls, overlooking the Forbidden City, it is as picturesque as a painting. On the fringes are the awe-inspiring Hall of Supreme Harmony and a continuous expanse of magnificent ancient buildings. In the center, autumn colors of red, yellow, and green intertwine, decorating the Forbidden City with a riot of colors.
Walking into the Forbidden City, the thick sense of autumn greets you. The yellow glazed tiles and the golden ginkgo leaves reflect against the azure sky, a beauty so breathtaking it leaves you breathless. Then they reflect upon that streak of red high walls, or blanket the quiet little paths – every scene is utterly moving.
The resplendent and majestic Hall of Supreme Harmony, Hall of Preserving Harmony, Hall of Central Harmony... What left the deepest impression on me was the Imperial Garden. Here, ancient trees over three hundred years old stand. Sitting in a pavilion, quietly admiring this beautiful scenery – how wonderful it is! The Forbidden City, moreover, speaks to every visitor of the dignity and supreme power of the imperial family.
The trees in the Forbidden City grow within walls that have weathered centuries. They have crossed vast spans of time to meet us, each one steeped in history and exceptionally evocative.
2. Olympic Forest Park
Beijing's autumn hues aren't confined to palaces; they are also found in parks all around. The Olympic Forest Park is located on Lincui Road, North Fifth Ring Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing. It is the largest sports park in the city. In late autumn, maple and ginkgo leaves turn yellow – it's the most beautiful season of the year.
Autumn deepens, and it's that most beautiful time of year in Beijing again. The ground carpeted in gold, passersby everywhere can't help but exclaim: "Beijing's autumn – beyond words." Here, the ginkgo trees are concentrated, forming one continuous stretch. The dense, golden leaves flutter down from the sky like a fairy-tale world paved in gold. Strolling along the forest paths, the golden ginkgo and maple leaves are swept up by the wind, a dazzling, overwhelming sea of yellow.
3. Stunning! How beautiful is Mutianyu Great Wall in autumn!
Have you ever been to the Great Wall in autumn? Although I've visited the Great Wall many times, the autumn Great Wall possesses a unique beauty. In the golden autumn season, the Mutianyu Great Wall scenic area is ablaze with color, its enchanting scenery attracting countless visitors. Come and see how beautiful Mutianyu is in autumn.
One is not a true man until he reaches the Great Wall! The most widely known section is Mutianyu Great Wall. In the second year of Yongle in the Ming Dynasty, a main pass was established here, and the Great Wall was built atop high mountains. Looking up from the valley, it seems to reach the sky, hence the pass was initially called "Motiangu" (Sky-Scraping Valley). Later, because "Motian" phonetically resembles "Mutian," and "yu" and "gu" are interchangeable characters, it came to be known as Mutianyu.
Starting from the late Ming Dynasty, families surnamed He, Wang, Yang, and others moved here to settle, gradually forming a village, from which Mutianyu Village gets its name. The Great Wall north of the village was first built during the Northern Qi Dynasty and was renovated several times during the Sui and Tang Dynasties. It was rebuilt in the early Ming Dynasty. According to historical research, the Mutianyu Great Wall was constructed under the supervision of Xu Da, a general under Zhu Yuanzhang, on the foundations of the Northern Qi Wall. Later, when famed generals Tan Lun and Qi Jiguang guarded the capital region, they further renovated it.
The wall is built from huashan granite, lime, and other materials. It features double-sided battlements with closely spaced watchtowers. Ming Dynasty cannons are placed on the wall, and the square crenel holes, topped with an arc, are built below the battlements, designed for both attacking enemies and protecting oneself. According to the "Record of the Four Towns and Three Passes," it states: "In the twenty-second year of Jiajing (1543), western invaders raided Mutianyu Pass and Jia'er Ridge; local government troops resisted and repelled them." Originally, there was a fortress in the village, about a hundred meters in length and width, of which only the foundation remains today. Here, mountain ridges roll, forests are lush, and the Great Wall snakes from southeast to northwest across lofty peaks. Because the mountain slopes vary from gentle to steep, interspersed with curves and straight sections, it has a strong three-dimensional effect.
Each arrow window in the watchtowers offers its own unique viewing angle. Close by, the entire hillside bursts forth with the richest array of forest colors. Among the vibrant kaleidoscope, the most dazzling are the smoke trees, like patches of red clouds, intoxicating the heart!
In this perfect autumn weather, climb onto the spine of the mountain where the Great Wall "giant dragon" coils. The valleys on both sides stretch endlessly with a tapestry of red, orange, yellow, and green. Visitors can leisurely admire the red leaves in the forests right beside the Great Wall, getting up close to the autumn colors with the Wall as a backdrop, embracing autumn.
Many people come to Mutianyu lured by the fame of the Great Wall, but in fact, the natural scenery here is also outstanding. Mutianyu Great Wall is nestled among mountain ranges. The scenic area is lush with vegetation, boasting a coverage rate as high as 96% – a scale of greenery unmatched by any other section of the Wall. In spring, flowers bloom in profusion, competing for beauty; in late spring, you can enjoy peach blossoms, and if you're lucky, you might even see a sea of clouds hovering over the ridges, reminiscent of Huangshan. In summer, the mountains are covered in verdant green, with streams murmuring; it enjoys the reputation of "Mutianyu, the Unique Beauty of the Ten-Thousand-Li Great Wall."
4. Greet the first ray of morning light at Tiananmen Square to watch the flag-raising ceremony
The moment the first ray of sunlight rises over Tiananmen Square, tourists from all over the country gather here to watch the flag-raising ceremony.
Tiananmen Square is the largest city-center square in the world. It is 500 meters wide from east to west, 880 meters long from north to south, covering an area of about 440,000 square meters, capable of holding one million people. The resplendent Tiananmen Rostrum sits at the north end of the square. The Five-Starred Red Flag flutters high above. The Monument to the People's Heroes stands erect in the center. The solemn Great Hall of the People and the magnificent National Museum of China face each other across the east and west sides. The Chairman Mao Memorial Hall and the freshly repainted Zhengyangmen Gate Tower stand at the southern part of the square.
In the autumn Beijing sky is high and the clouds are pale, with a gentle breeze blowing. We came from the underground passage in front of Tiananmen to the north side of the square. The first thing we saw was a Five-Starred Red Flag, fluttering high in the wind. Many tourists nearby were taking photos as souvenirs. In the center of the square stands the Monument to the People's Heroes, like a giant. To its left is the Great Hall of the People, where a hundred flowers bloom and the scenery is delightful.
Tiananmen, the Tiananmen Rostrum, was the main gate of the Imperial City of Beijing during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Construction began in the fifteenth year of Yongle in the Ming Dynasty (1417). It was initially named "Chengtianmen," meaning "Carrying the Mandate of Heaven, Receiving Orders from Heaven." It was designed by Kuai Xiang, an imperial architect of the Ming Dynasty. In the eighth year of Shunzhi in the Qing Dynasty (1651), it was renamed Tiananmen. It consists of a platform and the gate tower, with a marble Sumeru pedestal, reaching a total height of 34.7 meters. The Tiananmen tower is 66 meters long and 37 meters wide. Beneath the platform are five arched gateways. The central, larger archway is located on the central axis of Beijing's Imperial City; in the past, only the emperor could enter and exit through it.
5. Take you to see the red leaves of Xiangshan (Fragrant Hills), as the leaves gradually reach their prime viewing period
The red leaves of Beijing's Xiangshan are extraordinarily red. Admiring maple leaves is a major feature of autumn. Every autumn, starting from the end of September, the leaves of the smoke trees covering the mountains turn as red as flames, setting off the entire Xiangshan in a particularly spectacular display. Hence, the red leaves of Xiangshan have become one of the most popular autumn travel destinations.
In this season, Xiangshan Park is undoubtedly one of the most popular tourist destinations in Beijing. As an imperial garden with a history of nearly a thousand years, Xiangshan Park not only has rich cultural connotations but also stunningly beautiful scenery that lifts the spirits.
Xiangshan Park boasts a long history. Its ancient buildings, old trees, and ancient stone carvings all bear witness to the vicissitudes of time. Additionally, the cultural atmosphere of Xiangshan Park is very rich. It was once a Qing Dynasty imperial garden, and many literati and scholars left behind calligraphic works and poems here.
The beautiful natural scenery is another important reason why Xiangshan Park is highly favored by tourists. Every autumn, the red leaves of Xiangshan are like fire and rosy clouds, contrasting delightfully with the green mountains and trees, forming a magnificent picture.
In Beijing's Xiangshan, every autumn, the leaves of the smoke trees all over the mountains turn as red as flames, turning a deep purplish-red after frost. These smoke trees were planted during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. After more than 200 years of growth, they have gradually formed a forest area of 94,000 smoke trees.
For touring Xiangshan Park, there is a classic sightseeing route. Visitors can enter through the park gate, climb up the stone steps, and enjoy the ancient architecture and natural scenery along the way. After reaching the mountaintop, you can visit Xiangshan Temple and experience the mysterious Buddhist culture. Finally, descend along the winding mountain road, passing by Xiangshan Lake, and take in the beauty of the lake and mountain scenery.
6. The perfect ending for autumn appreciation: Jingshan Park and Beihai Park
Jingshan Park, the back garden of the Forbidden City on Beijing's central axis, offers a panoramic view of the Forbidden City to the south when you reach the highest point, Wanchun Pavilion. To the northwest, you can take in the entire Beihai Lake and the White Pagoda. To the east, you can see the distinctive CCTV Headquarters building and China Zun tower echoing with Guanmiao Pavilion from afar. The clash and fusion of ancient and modern cultures washes over you, a breathtaking beauty in both color and momentum.
Described in poetry as "embroidered paths winding around, red mansions gracefully welcoming," Jingshan is both "a jade island in snow" and "a white jade capital in the clouds," which tells us how beautiful the scenery of Jingshan was then. In my eyes, however, Jingshan presents "trees covered in brilliant golden leaves, countless gates within the red-walled palace." In this season of drifting yellow leaves, let us have a late-autumn rendezvous at Jingshan...
Beihai Park, the Beihai Park that inspired the song "Let Us Sway Twin Oars," was also once an imperial garden. Weeping willows caress the clear water, the White Pagoda is set against the deep blue sky, and the evening sunset is splendid. On benches by the water, there are sweet couples, lively children, and a talented old gentleman playing the accordion while another sings operatic arias a cappella, drawing crowds and applause.
Sit quietly by the lake, watch the afterglow of the sunset, and feel the romance that belongs to Beijing. In addition to the gardens within gardens like Xiaoxitian, the Nine-Dragon Screen, Wulong Pavilion, and Jingxin Studio, I also recommend you take a look at the "Beihai Royal Post Station," which displays many old stamps and their corresponding history.
Beihai Park is bordered by the Forbidden City and Jingshan to the east, overlooks Zhonghai and Nanhai to the south, connects with Xingsheng Palace and Longfu Palace to the west, and adjoins Shichahai to the north. It is the most scenic of the "Three Seas" in Beijing. Once the site of palaces of the Liao, Jin, and Yuan Dynasties, it is the oldest and best-preserved imperial garden in China to this day.
Compared to the delicate and graceful autumn scenery of Jiangnan, the autumn colors of the north seem more intense and profound. Coupled especially with the red walls, green tiles, and golden glazed roofs of this imperial garden, one deeply feels the understated elegance within the solemnity of Beihai Park.
Notes:
1. The best time for autumn viewing each year is October and November. Plan your trip accordingly to witness the most beautiful autumn in Beijing.
2. For photos, it is recommended to wear light-colored clothing to avoid clashing with the background colors as much as possible.
3. Tickets for the Forbidden City need to be booked in advance on the official website.
4. For Tiananmen, you need to queue up, have your ID checked, and then enter.
5. For the Summer Palace, it is recommended to buy a combo ticket. The park is extremely large, so be sure to plan your route well before exploring.
6. Security checks at Tiananmen Square, the National Museum of China, and the Forbidden City are all very strict.
