Autumn in Beijing: A Poetic Romance beneath Red Walls and Golden Leaves, Dazzlingly Splendid and Utterly Intoxicating

The famous writer Lao She once said, 'You must live in Beijing in autumn. I don't know what heaven looks like, but from my life experience, the autumn of Beiping is paradise.' This quote etched itself into my memory, so I chose to come to Beijing in the most beautiful golden October, to witness just how stunning Beijing's autumn truly is!

A complete travel guide to Beijing in autumn—this article is all you need!

As everyone knows, Beijing is the heart of the motherland, the capital of the People's Republic of China, a municipality directly under the central government, a national central city, and a megacity. Every day, tourists from all over the country come here to sightsee and visit. I remember when I was about six years old, I followed my parents to Beijing to visit relatives. Back then, Beijing felt so vast!

Even now, Beijing still feels vast, so vast that I sometimes lose my bearings. That's why I don't come often—as someone with no sense of direction, I'm afraid of getting lost.

You must visit Beijing in autumn, because it is the best season for travel. There is no wind, no rain, the weather is neither cold nor hot, and the sun shines warmly all day long. Gingko leaves turn yellow, maple leaves turn red, and autumn's mood saturates this ancient capital of a thousand years. At this time, Beijing is at its most enchanting.

Natural beauty combined with a thousand years of ancient charm is simply intoxicating. A city with over three thousand years of history, Beijing has witnessed countless stories. Even though people and times change, the scenery remains, and the cycle of seasons continues unchanged, as if telling tales spanning three millennia.

In recent years (2007, 2008, 2009, 2015, 2017, 2019, 2020), I have come to Beijing no fewer than seven times for travel, study, business, visiting relatives, and friends. Although that's not a small number, I'm still quite unfamiliar with the city. After all, I've lived in the south for too long and am no longer accustomed to the lifestyle and environment of the north.

Every time I came to Beijing, I was just passing through hastily and never had a proper tour. This time, I planned to visit all the major sights in Beijing one by one, to fulfill a long-held wish.

My itinerary: Forbidden City – Olympic Forest Park – Forbidden City (again) – Mutianyu Great Wall Scenic Area in Huairou District – Jingshan Park, Beihai Park – South Street Ancient Alleys – Bird's Nest – Shichahai – Fragrant Hills – Tiananmen Square. Roughly these places, strolling, gazing, and snapping photos, embarking on a slow exploration of Beijing.

Part 1: Autumn at the Forbidden City

The first stop was the Forbidden City!

People say: The best place to enjoy autumn in Beijing—the Forbidden City becomes the magnificent Zijincheng, with red walls, yellow tiles, and colorful leaves, the most beautiful autumn scene in the imperial capital!

The autumn of the Forbidden City is a splendor that has passed through six hundred years of history yet is vividly before your eyes.

Beneath the over thirty-meter-high walls, across the moat, you look up at the towering walls and the majestic corner tower. The sky is deep blue, the water is deep blue, the vegetation turns gold. Rarely is the Forbidden City so bright and enchanting.

Colorful leaves paired with red walls and yellow glazed tiles gild the entire palace in gold. The autumn scenery of the Forbidden City is absolutely unmissable. In autumn, every tree, every blade of grass, every brick, and every tile of the Forbidden City becomes exceptionally poetic. There are many ginkgo trees, their leaves a golden yellow against the red palace walls—just imagine how beautiful that is!

Standing on the high steps of the great halls, you can overlook the Forbidden City like a painting. In the distance stands the awe-inspiring Hall of Supreme Harmony and the splendid ancient complex stretching out, while in the middle, a tapestry of red, yellow, and green autumn colors adorns the palace in brilliant hues.

Walking into the Forbidden City, the thick autumn atmosphere envelops you. Yellow glazed tiles and golden ginkgo leaves reflected against the azure sky create a beauty so breathtaking it stops your breath. Set against those vermilion walls or carpeting secluded paths, every scene is a moving masterpiece.

The magnificent and imposing Hall of Supreme Harmony, Hall of Preserving Harmony, Hall of Central Harmony... What impressed me the most was the Imperial Garden, filled with ancient trees over three hundred years old. Sitting in a pavilion, quietly taking in the scenery—how delightful it is! The Forbidden City tells every visitor about the majesty and supreme authority of the imperial family.

The trees in the Forbidden City grow within walls that have weathered centuries, reaching across the long river of time to meet us. Each tree is steeped in history, exuding a unique charm.

Part 2: Olympic Forest Park

Beijing's autumn colors are not confined to palaces; they also grace parks throughout the city. Olympic Forest Park, located on Lincui Road in the North Fifth Ring area of Chaoyang District, is Beijing's largest sports park. In late autumn, maple and ginkgo leaves turn golden—the most beautiful season.

As autumn deepens, Beijing's most gorgeous season arrives. Everywhere, golden hues draw sighs from passersby: 'Beijing's autumn is beyond words.' Here, ginkgo trees cluster together in dense groves, thick golden leaves swirling through the air like a fairy tale world paved with gold. Strolling along the tree-lined paths, golden ginkgo and maple leaves dance on the breeze, a blinding cascade of yellow.

Part 3: Stunning! How Beautiful is the Mutianyu Great Wall in Autumn!

Have you ever visited the Great Wall in autumn? Although I've been to the Great Wall many times, the autumn Great Wall has a different kind of beauty. In the golden autumn, the forests of Mutianyu Great Wall Scenic Area are painted in layers of color, drawing countless visitors. Come see how beautiful Mutianyu is in autumn.

'He who has never been to the Great Wall is not a true man!' The most widely known section is Mutianyu Great Wall. In the second year of Yongle in the Ming Dynasty, a pass was established here, and the wall was built high upon the mountain. Looking up from the valley, it seems to touch the sky, hence the name 'Motian Valley' (Sky-scraping Valley). Later, because 'Motian' sounds similar to 'Mutian,' and 'yu' and 'gu' are interchangeable characters, it became known as Mutianyu.

Starting from the late Ming Dynasty, families with surnames He, Wang, and Yang moved here, gradually forming a village, and thus Mutianyu Village got its name. The Great Wall north of the village was first built during the Northern Qi Dynasty and repaired several times during the Sui and Tang dynasties. It was rebuilt in the early Ming Dynasty; according to documentary research, the Mutianyu Great Wall was built under the supervision of Xu Da, a great general under Zhu Yuanzhang, on the ruins of the Northern Qi Wall. Later, when famous generals Tan Lun and Qi Jiguang guarded the capital region, they further repaired it.

The wall was built from granite, limestone, and other materials, with battlements on both sides and densely placed watchtowers. Ming-dynasty cannons sit atop, with double crenellations and arrow slits below, arched on top and square-shaped, designed both to strike the enemy effectively and to protect the defenders. According to the 'Records of the Four Towns and Three Passes': 'In the 22nd year of Jiajing (1543), Western invaders attacked Mutianyu Pass and Jia'er Ridge; the local garrison repelled them.' A fort about a hundred meters square once stood in the village, but now only the foundation remains. Here, mountains roll, forests are lush, and the Great Wall snakes from southeast to northwest along the ridges of towering peaks. Due to the varying steepness and winding lines, it has a strong three-dimensional feel.

Each arrow window in the watchtowers offers a unique viewing angle. Up close, the entire hillside bursts with the richest colors—among the riot of hues, the smoke trees blaze like patches of red clouds, intoxicating the heart!

With perfect autumn light, climb onto the ridge where the 'giant dragon' coils. On both sides, valleys are ablaze with endless reds, oranges, yellows, and greens. Visitors can leisurely admire the red leaves among the mountain forests beside the Great Wall, embracing autumn up close with the ancient wall as a backdrop.

Many people come to Mutianyu for the Great Wall, but the natural scenery here is also outstanding. Nestled among mountains, the area boasts lush vegetation with a coverage rate of up to 96%, a density unmatched by any other section of the wall. In spring, flowers burst into bloom, vying for beauty; in late spring, you can enjoy peach blossoms, and with luck, see a sea of clouds coiling around the peaks like at Huangshan. In summer, the mountains are covered in emerald green, with babbling streams. It is praised as 'the finest section of the Great Wall, Mutianyu alone excels.'

Part 4: Watching the Flag-Raising Ceremony at Tiananmen Square at Dawn

At the moment the first ray of sunlight rises over Tiananmen Square, visitors from all over the country gather to watch the flag-raising ceremony.

Tiananmen Square is the largest city-center square in the world, measuring 500 meters east to west and 880 meters north to south, covering about 440,000 square meters and capable of holding a million people for gatherings. The resplendent Tiananmen Rostrum stands at the northern end of the square, the Five-Star Red Flag flutters high above, the Monument to the People's Heroes stands in the center, the solemn Great Hall of the People and the magnificent National Museum of China face each other on the east and west sides, and the Chairman Mao Memorial Hall and the newly painted Zhengyangmen Gate Tower stand to the south.

In Beijing's autumn, the sky is high and the air is crisp, with a gentle breeze blowing. We passed through an underground passage from the front of Tiananmen to the northern side of the square. The first thing we saw was a Five-Star Red Flag flying high in the wind, with many tourists nearby taking photos. In the center of the square stands the Monument to the People's Heroes, like a giant. To its left is the Great Hall of the People, where flowers are in full bloom and the scenery is delightful.

Tiananmen, the main gate of the imperial city in the Ming and Qing dynasties, was first built in the 15th year of Yongle (1417) of the Ming Dynasty, initially named Chengtianmen, meaning 'bearing the mandate of heaven.' It was designed by Kuai Xiang, a master architect in the imperial service. In the 8th year of Shunzhi of the Qing Dynasty (1651), it was renamed Tiananmen. It consists of a platform and a tower, with a white marble base, reaching a total height of 34.7 meters. The Tiananmen Rostrum is 66 meters long and 37 meters wide. The platform has five gateways, the central one being the largest, located on the central axis of Beijing's imperial city. In the past, only the emperor could pass through it.

Part 5: Taking You to See the Red Leaves of Fragrant Hills, Now at Their Peak Viewing Period

The red leaves of Fragrant Hills in Beijing are exceptionally red. Admiring maple leaves is a signature autumn activity. Every autumn, starting in late September, the hillsides are covered with smoke tree leaves, red as flames, making the entire Fragrant Hills strikingly spectacular. Thus, the red leaves of Fragrant Hills have become one of the hottest autumn travel destinations.

In this season, Fragrant Hills Park is undoubtedly one of Beijing's most popular tourist sites. As a royal garden with nearly a thousand years of history, Fragrant Hills Park not only has rich cultural connotations but also heart-soothingly beautiful scenery.

Fragrant Hills Park has a long history; its ancient buildings, ancient trees, and ancient stone carvings all bear witness to the vicissitudes of time. Moreover, the cultural atmosphere is very strong—it was once an imperial garden of the Qing Dynasty, leaving behind many calligraphic treasures and poems by literati.

Its beautiful natural scenery is another major reason Fragrant Hills Park is favored by tourists. Every autumn, the red leaves blaze like flames and rosy clouds, complementing green hills and trees, forming a stunning picture scroll.

In autumn, the smoke tree leaves all over the hills turn red as fire, and after frost, they become a deep purple-red. These smoke trees were planted during the Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty. Over more than 200 years, they have grown into a forest area of 94,000 smoke trees.

There is a classic sightseeing route in Fragrant Hills Park. Visitors can enter through the park gate and climb up the stone steps, admiring ancient architecture and natural scenery along the way. At the top of the hill, you can visit the Xiangshan Temple and experience the mysterious Buddhist culture. Finally, walk down the winding mountain road, passing by Xiangshan Lake, and enjoy the beauty of the lake and mountains.

Part 6: Perfect Autumn Finale at Jingshan Park and Beihai Park

Jingshan Park, the back garden of the Forbidden City on Beijing's central axis. At the highest point, Wanchun Pavilion, you can look south for a panoramic view of the Forbidden City; to the northwest, take in a full view of Beihai Lake and the White Dagoba. To the east, the 'Big Pants' of China World Trade Center, the CITIC Tower, and Guanmiao Pavilion echo across time—the collision and fusion of ancient and modern culture hit you directly, a breathtaking beauty in both color and grandeur.

'Embroidered paths winding around, crimson towers gracefully meeting'—Jingshan was once described as 'a jade island in the snow' and 'a white jade capital in the clouds,' showing just how beautiful its scenery was back then. In my eyes, Jingshan is 'trees full of golden leaves glistening, red walls and palace gates layer upon layer.' In this season of drifting yellow leaves, let's meet in Jingshan for a late-autumn rendezvous...

Beihai Park, the Beihai Park where we once rowed boats, was also a former royal garden. Weeping willows caress the emerald water, the White Dagoba nestles into the clear blue sky, and the sunset casts an incomparable glow. On the benches by the water, there are sweet couples, lively children, and a talented elderly man playing the accordion while another sings bel canto a cappella, drawing a crowd and applause.

Sitting quietly by the lake, watching the afterglow, you can feel Beijing's unique romance. Besides the attractions within—Little Western Paradise, Nine-Dragon Screen, Five-Dragon Pavilions, and the Heart-Easing Study—I also recommend visiting the 'Beihai Royal Post Station,' which displays many old stamps and related history.

Beihai Park, with the Forbidden City and Jingshan to its east, Zhonghai and Nanhai to its south, Xingsheng Palace and Longfu Palace to its west, and Shichahai to its north, is the most scenic of the 'Three Seas' in Beijing. Once the site of palaces built during the Liao, Jin, and Yuan dynasties, it is the oldest and best-preserved royal garden in China.

Compared to the graceful and delicate autumn scenery of Jiangnan, the autumn colors of the north seem more richly saturated, especially when paired with the royal garden's red walls, green tiles, and golden glazed roofs, allowing you to deeply feel the solemn yet elegant beauty of Beihai Park.

Notes:

1. The best time to enjoy autumn is October/November each year. Plan your visit to catch Beijing's most beautiful autumn.

2. For photos, light-colored clothing is recommended; avoid clashing colors.

3. Forbidden City tickets need to be booked in advance on the official website.

4. Tiananmen requires queuing up and identity verification to enter.

5. For the Summer Palace, it is recommended to buy a combo ticket. The park is huge, so be sure to plan your route before exploring.

6. For Badaling Great Wall, take bus 877 from Deshengmen directly. Download the Yitongxing app; it works for both subway and bus.

7. Security checks at Tiananmen Square, the National Museum of China, and the Forbidden City are very strict.