In Awe of Nature｜Reflections on an Arctic Circle Journey (Greenland Chapter)

📍 Calgary · 👁 5579 reads · ❤️ 2 likes

People often set humanity against nature, declaring they will conquer it. Little do they realize that before nature, humans are forever but naive children, and yet they aspire to be masters of nature! They are merely an ordinary part of the great organism of nature, just as a blade of grass is an ordinary part of it—what right do they have to stand against nature! If nature's wisdom is the ocean, then human wisdom is but a drop in that ocean. Though this drop may reflect the ocean, it is not the ocean itself.

We should no longer regard the rest of the universe as merely objects to conquer, nor other living beings as mere delicacies. Instead, we should first see them as life equal to ours, as creations of cosmic wisdom, as showcases of the universe's beauty. Above all, we should hold them in awe just as we hold ourselves in awe. To revere them is to revere the universe, to revere nature, and to revere ourselves. — Excerpt from Yan Chunyou's "In Awe of Nature"

After returning from Iceland and Greenland, I revisited Yan Chunyou's "In Awe of Nature" and gained a deeper understanding of the theme of revering nature. Once upon a time, we were obsessed with reshaping nature to suit us better, and nature never bothered to argue with us. Yet once we infringe upon nature's dignity, it can destroy us effortlessly. Learning to revere nature and then treat it with kindness is the greatest insight this trip has given me.

This article is a companion piece to "In Awe of Nature｜Reflections on an Arctic Circle Journey (Iceland Chapter)" (https://you.ctrip.com/travels/easticeland123786/4082054.html?isAuthor=true). The first half is a guide, and the second half is a travel log. Please pick and choose as you see fit.

Greenland—mentioned in middle school textbooks—has two major labels: the world's largest island and home to the Eskimos. On the map, apart from Canada, Iceland is the closest place to Greenland. Although the primary destination of this trip was Iceland, spending just a few more hours to fly across the Arctic Circle to reach "the northernmost land I will ever reach in my life" was reason enough and full of temptation. Thus, Greenland unexpectedly became another destination of this journey.

Although it was a spur-of-the-moment decision, the necessary preparations could not be skipped. Greenland is located in the northeastern part of North America, between the Arctic Ocean and the Atlantic Ocean. It is the world's largest island, with 83.7% of its area covered by ice and snow (as seen in satellite images, the entire island is mostly white). Some have calculated that if all of Greenland's ice melted, global sea levels would rise by 7.5 meters.

The island's inhabitants (Inuit, also known as Eskimos) are mainly distributed along the western and southwestern coasts, and the primary mode of transportation between settlements is by plane.

When visiting Greenland, the four main attractions are fjords, icebergs, ice calving, and whales, and the three dimensions for viewing are by air, by land, and by sea. For this Greenland trip, we selected Ilulissat (marked with a red box in the image below), located at latitude 69°N in central western Greenland. Ilulissat literally means "iceberg" in Greenlandic. It is the third-largest Inuit settlement in Greenland, situated 280 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle.

Because of the nearby magnificent Ilulissat Icefjord (a UNESCO World Natural Heritage site since 2004), Ilulissat has become Greenland's most popular tourist destination.

Finally, it should be mentioned that although Greenland geographically belongs to North America, it is actually a territory of Denmark. And although it is a Danish territory, its visa is not part of the Schengen Area—confusing, isn't it? So to visit Greenland, you need to apply for a special Greenland visa at a Danish embassy or consulate.

Occasionally, jagged black peaks pierce through the blinding white, endlessly stretching ice sheet.

On the eastern and central ice sheets, there is no trace of life for hundreds of kilometers.

The massive ice cap is dotted with numerous lakes. Viewed from above, the blue lakes come in various shapes, standing out vividly against the white backdrop.

Ice-free areas are mainly along the coasts, mostly plateaus. Only the western and southwestern regions are suitable for habitation.

In many coastal areas, ice moves directly toward the sea. Glaciers break off, sliding into the water to form massive icebergs.

The west coast has the world's largest fjord, long and deep, extending into Greenland's interior, creating a complex bay system.

The glaciers near Ilulissat Icefjord discharge millions of tons of ice into the sea every day, moving at about 1 meter per hour, thus creating numerous icebergs. In 1912, the Titanic sank after colliding with one such iceberg.

Aerial view of Ilulissat town

Ilulissat is Greenland's third-largest settlement, with a population of about 4,500.

Experiencing a midnight sun cruise is the best way to explore the Ilulissat Icefjord during polar day. The pure white icebergs are wrapped in a layer of golden light—truly a visual feast, no exaggeration.

After the sun sets, the sky does not darken; instead, it turns a pinkish hue.

Watching ice calving is another must-do activity in Ilulissat.

The two animations below fully capture the entire calving process. Combined with the thunderous roar of collapsing ice entering the water, the word "shocking" is insufficient to describe the inner feeling.

Whales and seals are often seen in coastal waters, so whale watching is the third activity in Ilulissat. Disko Bay in Ilulissat is home to 15 species of whales. Personally, the whale watching experience in Ilulissat is even better than in Húsavík, Iceland, because the boats are faster and less crowded.

The above are all sea activities, but land hiking is equally spectacular. The three hiking trails around Ilulissat are not too difficult. When you stand alone facing a vast expanse of icebergs, aside from marveling at the greatness of the Creator, your soul can also be purified.

Of course, if you visit Greenland in winter, watching the Northern Lights and dog sledding are two must-try activities. But since I went in summer, these winter activities were not for me.

With all this preparation, the four main activities for this Ilulissat trip were finalized:

► Ilulissat Icefjord hiking

► Iceberg Midnight Cruise

► Day tour to Eqi Glacier – the calving glacier

► Whale Safari in Disko Bay

When preparing, I always recommend a few reference books. Here, I introduce some websites that are very helpful for understanding Greenland and booking activities:

► Greenland's official tourism website: The most comprehensive introduction to Greenland. Here you can discover different ways to explore Greenland's beauty in different seasons. Moreover, there are many more places to visit in Greenland beyond Ilulissat. The website includes introductions to other towns, so if you have enough time, you can visit several towns.

► World of Greenland: Mainly used for booking activities in Ilulissat. This website has a physical store in Ilulissat town, and all activity meeting points are at the store's entrance.

The success of every trip depends heavily on thorough preparation, especially when the destination has relatively harsh natural conditions. Pre-trip preparation is particularly important.

Like Iceland, flight options to Greenland are very limited. Apart from Iceland, the only departure point is Denmark. I chose Air Iceland Connect, a subsidiary of Icelandair, for 2 adults and 1 child at a price close to 10,000. The day before departure, after checking in online, I felt bored and checked the price again, only to find that booking early didn't offer much discount—the prices were similar, possibly due to monopoly on the route. Also, Air Greenland operates flights between Iceland and Greenland.

Air Iceland Connect flies small propeller planes like this, carrying about 30 passengers when full. I estimate that only half the seats were taken that day, with many empty. The flight was quite smooth, lasting 3 hours and 15 minutes.

Note: Air Iceland Connect flights depart from Reykjavík Airport in Iceland's capital, not the familiar Keflavik International Airport. Reykjavík Airport is very small, only handling domestic flights in Iceland and flights to Greenland and the Faroe Islands. Don't confuse the two.

This airline is similar to Spring Airlines, offering no meals unless purchased separately with a credit card.

For the flight from Greenland back to Copenhagen, I naturally chose Air Greenland. The aircraft is entirely red and very eye-catching.

The flight from Greenland's west coast to Copenhagen takes about 4.5 hours. I left Ilulissat at 9:20 PM. You can follow my example and choose a later flight, which allows you to stay in Ilulissat for a full three days (cherish your time inside the Arctic Circle) and save one night's accommodation—a win-win. Since Ilulissat Airport is small and cannot accommodate large jet aircraft, the flight to Copenhagen requires a stopover at Kangerlussuaq, also on the west coast, to switch to a larger plane. The ticket price for 2 adults and 1 child from Ilulissat to Copenhagen is around 10,000.

With three full days in Ilulissat, the itinerary was relatively simple. Returning to Copenhagen, we had half a day before departure, just enough to visit some famous sights in the city. The itinerary was as follows:

Reykjavík – Ilulissat – Midnight Cruise

► Stay: Hotel Arctic

Ilulissat – Eqi Glacier – Ilulissat

► Stay: Hotel Arctic

Ilulissat Whale Watching + Hiking – Copenhagen Airport

Copenhagen Airport – Nyhavn – Amalienborg – The Little Mermaid – Copenhagen Airport

Compared to Iceland's tight hotel resources, Greenland is even more strained. For Ilulissat, the entire town offers only 10 hotels on booking websites. The better ones are Hotel Arctic, Hotel Icefiord, and Hotel Avannaa, while the rest are apartments. You can imagine how scarce rooms are.

I chose Hotel Arctic, the best and only four-star hotel in town, a 5-minute drive from the town center (about 20 minutes on foot). I booked 9 months in advance and was lucky to get the last room—a small suite. So if you plan to visit Ilulissat, book accommodation well in advance, several months ahead.

The hotel's Ulo restaurant has a summer terrace overlooking Disko Bay, serving affordable Greenlandic cuisine. We ate there three times over three days, at about 100 per person, much cheaper than in Iceland.

The hotel has built a wooden boardwalk leading to the sea, offering a panoramic view of Disko Bay.

These three "yurts" can also accommodate guests.

The sea is dotted with icebergs of all sizes. Navigating ships, especially large cruise ships, in such sea conditions requires a bold yet careful hand.

On the outer side of the boardwalk, many Eskimo dogs are tied up. In summer, they have nothing to do; their time to shine comes in winter.

Inside the hotel, there are many craft paintings depicting Eskimo daily life, very lifelike.

Since I had contacted the hotel in advance, they gave me a small suite on the third floor (the top floor) with a sea view and a small balcony, offering a broad outlook.

View of Disko Bay from the room's balcony.

The hotel offers free airport transfers, about a 5-minute drive from the airport. Additionally, there are several free shuttle buses running between the hotel and the town center (at the World of Greenland store entrance) each day.

For WiFi, the front desk provides a password slip at check-in, with each person getting 1GB of free data valid for the entire stay.

Although accommodation in Greenland is expensive, Hotel Arctic's hardware and software justify the price. Finally, a reminder: if you plan to visit Ilulissat, book your room early.

All activities can be booked through the World of Greenland website. The service provider sends confirmation emails; print them out before you go. The hiking products from World of Greenland include a local professional guide. I personally think it's unnecessary to spend the money, as the actual experience shows these hiking routes are not difficult and the trail markers are clear, so there's no need to worry.

Greenland is a Danish overseas territory but not part of the Schengen Area. This means you must apply for a separate Greenland visa at the Danish Visa Application Center. In addition to the standard documents for a Danish Schengen visa, you need to provide copies of your round-trip flight tickets to Greenland and accommodation confirmation.

Since this trip went from Iceland to Greenland and then back to Denmark, entering the Schengen Area twice, I needed to include the Greenland itinerary in my Schengen visa application and check "multiple entries" on the form. The final visa is shown below. Pay attention to the areas circled in red: one indicates the number of entries as "multiple," and the other notes that the visa is valid for Greenland.

All told, we spent exactly three days in Ilulissat. Those three days were nothing short of rich and colorful. We experienced the midnight iceberg cruise, Eqi Glacier calving, Disko Bay whale watching, and Ilulissat Icefjord hiking—all unforgettable journeys. If Iceland is a world of fire and ice, then Greenland is entirely a kingdom of ice—a pristine, breathtaking white kingdom.

Our plane arrived in Ilulissat around noon. Ilulissat Airport is extremely small, and surprisingly, there is no security check or document inspection.

After being picked up and checking into the hotel, it was still early before our booked dinner, so we decided to take a stroll around town.

We missed the hotel shuttle to town and had to walk, taking about 20 minutes with stops along the way.

The harbor, photographed from Ilulissat Bridge. All booked sea activities depart from here by boat.

The outer walls of the town's residential houses are painted in various colors, looking colorful and fairy-tale-like under the sun.

World of Greenland's town office, also the shuttle stop for various hotels.

Town kindergarten.

Pisiffik supermarket, with a rich variety of goods.

Settlement built on the hillside.

Wherever you go, football is children's favorite.

The town is small; a walk around takes only five minutes. The biggest impression was that flies and mosquitoes outnumbered people. Few people were seen, but flies and mosquitoes often buzzed around. Many female tourists wore hats with mesh veils—quite sensible. Seeing we still had time, we decided to complete the easiest hiking route. Heading uphill south from the football field, passing an abandoned settlement called Sermermiut, about 10 minutes later we saw a bronze plaque—a UNESCO World Natural Heritage plaque. This is the starting point for all hiking routes.

This is a map of Ilulissat Icefjord, clearly showing that the Ilulissat Icefjord is the outlet of an inland ice cap flowing into the sea.

There are three main hiking routes around Ilulissat for viewing the icefjord (see below): the Red, Yellow, and Blue routes, all starting from the Old Heliport.

Brief introduction to the three routes (difficulty rated with four ★ as most difficult):

► Red Route: From Old Heliport to Holms Bakke, length 1 km, time 0.5 hours, difficulty ★★. The route is relatively flat with only a few climbs. This is actually a shortcut to Holms Bakke, mainly for viewing the icefjord.

► Yellow Route: From Old Heliport to Power Plant, length 2.7 km, time 1.5-2 hours, difficulty ★★★. The route is relatively flat with some climbs, mainly for close-up views of icebergs.

► Blue Route: From Old Heliport to Sermermiut, then to Holms Bakke, and finally to Quarry, length 6.9 km, time 4-5 hours, difficulty ★★★★. The route is uneven with many climbs. Although the longest and most difficult, it offers different perspectives of the icefjord.

► Special recommendation: The first fifth of the Blue Route (dashed blue line in the image below): From Old Heliport to Sermermiut, length 1.3 km, time 0.5 hours, difficulty ★. The entire route is a wooden boardwalk, the most convenient and fastest way to reach the icefjord, suitable for all ages including the elderly, children, and wheelchair users. It is highly popular among tourists and locals. If time is limited or physical strength is limited, don't miss the blue dashed line.

I hiked the blue dashed line, red route, and yellow route. The greatest feeling was that although hiking is hard, everything is worth it the moment you reach the summit and the magnificent icefjord and icebergs suddenly appear before your eyes. Words fail to describe such beauty, and a sense of awe for nature naturally arises.

This afternoon, I planned to complete the blue dashed section. The starting point, Old Heliport, is below the small hill with an observation station in the image below.

The first half of the route is a well-built wooden boardwalk, making it effortless.

In no time, we reached the mouth of the icefjord.

In less than half an hour, after passing a small hill, we arrived at the end of the route—the Sermermiut viewpoint.

From the height, the entire icefjord and its mouth were in full view.

You can climb down the rock face to get up close to the icefjord, but be sure to be safe—one slip could land you in the icy water.

Ilulissat Glacier is arguably the most "productive" glacier, not just in Greenland but in the entire Northern Hemisphere. The glacier is 7 km wide with a vertical drop of over 1 km. It produces about 43 million tons of ice per day, and the ice moves at about 50 meters per day—truly astonishing.

Many of the icebergs I saw now might have already drifted to some part of the North Atlantic by the time you visit.

Large blocks of ice line the shore.

The blue dashed line is indeed not too difficult and requires limited physical effort. Don't miss it if you want a close view of the icefjord.

This hike was quite easy. Returning to town, we caught a shuttle back to the hotel for dinner. After dinner, we went back to the town's World of Greenland store to gather for our first booked activity—the Midnight Iceberg Sightseeing Cruise. Many people participated, around over two hundred, but they were divided among several boats, so no need to worry about overcrowding. This shows that Iceberg Sightseeing is a must-do for almost every visitor to Ilulissat.

On the sea, we saw people kayaking. On calm days, it must be a great experience.

The sea surface was covered with floating ice, so navigating required some skill.

Icebergs are beautiful in all weather conditions. Under sunshine, the contrast is sharp; on cloudy days, blue shadows are most prominent; under the midnight sun, even at night, icebergs take on a unique glow.

Who made this cut?

We were also lucky to encounter a whale along the way.

According to the guide, more than 48 cubic kilometers of ice flow into the fjord annually. This results in massive icebergs, each face exceeding 100 meters, with many rising more than 100 meters above the water. These "giants" cluster together at the end of the fjord, giving us the opportunity to sail among them.

The guide also mentioned that in Ilulissat, the midnight sun phenomenon generally lasts from late May to late July. As time slowly approached midnight, the sun was setting, finally showing signs of "quitting work," and the highlight of our voyage was about to begin.

The midnight sun draped the pure white icebergs in a uniquely colored coat, the soft yellow and flawless white creating a marvelous optical effect, intoxicating viewers.

I've been fortunate to see sunsets in Santorini, the Maldives, and Tahiti, but none compare to Greenland's sunset.

Although the sun had set, the sky did not darken but instead took on a magical pink hue.

The Iceberg Sightseeing lasted about three hours. After disembarking, World of Greenland arranged transportation back to our hotel, so safety was not a concern. Reflecting on it, sailing among icebergs at midnight with sunlight still present was truly a fantastical and extraordinary experience. So, I highly recommend this activity to anyone visiting Greenland.

Today's activity was the Daytour to Eqi Glacier—the calving glacier. We took a boat from Ilulissat, heading 80 kilometers north to a glacier called Eqi to witness the rare spectacle of ice calving. The whole trip took about 10 hours.

On the way to Eqi Glacier, we saw various iceberg sculptures as usual.

This journey followed the coastline northward, passing Bredebugt, the settlement of Oqaatsut, and the Pakitsoq Fjord, where whales and seals are often seen.

After two hours, we entered the Ataa Strait, surrounded by steep mountains with many waterfalls and birds. The captain made a brief stop at the following waterfall, but having just come from Iceland and seen grander sights, I wasn't particularly interested in this small waterfall.

After passing through Ataa Strait, we entered the fjord where Eqi Glacier is located. There were hardly any large icebergs, only small floating ice, but they were beautiful against the seawater reflection.

After about four hours of sailing, Eqi Glacier came into view.

Eqi Glacier is known as one of the few most beautiful glaciers in Greenland, with a front width of 3.4 kilometers.

The sea near the glacier was filled with broken ice, showing how frequent calving is.

This section in the middle had already cracked and looked ready to collapse.

The boat stayed in front of Eqi Glacier for two hours. Everyone held their breath, staring at the glacier, afraid to miss the spectacular moment of calving.

Ice calving occurs mainly due to climate warming, causing glaciers to melt and crack, then large pieces of ice move and eventually fall into the sea under gravity.

Accompanied by a thunderous roar, we watched icebergs plunge into the sea—a perfect combination of sound and sight, truly awe-inspiring.

The boat entered an area of broken ice, where the sea surface looked like it was covered with a thin layer of frost.

The crew members were scooping up ice blocks. What for? Read on...

They broke the large ice into smaller pieces.

Passengers could taste this thousand-year-old ice—pure, with no impurities.

Lunch and snacks were provided on board. After lunch, the boat began its return journey. However, the boat made a brief stop at a dock not far from Eqi Glacier. Some passengers disembarked, while others from the shore boarded to join the remaining passengers on the return trip. Those who got off had signed up for the "Overnight Stay in Glacier Lodge Eqi" package, which combines a boat tour to watch calving with an overnight stay in a shore cabin. The cabins face Eqi Glacier, and there are hiking trails available, allowing more time to experience calving and the glacier.

The ten-hour ice calving experience tour came to a perfect end as the boat returned and docked at Ilulissat harbor. Although it took nearly an entire day, the journey was well worth it because it offered a unique opportunity to witness the breathtaking natural phenomenon of calving so closely, amidst ice-filled waters. So, if you have a chance, go experience it yourself.

Today's plan: morning hike on the Red Route, midday whale watching, afternoon hike on the Yellow Route.

The endpoint of the Red Route, Holms Bakke, is actually a viewpoint along the Blue Route, but accessed via a shortcut. Holms Bakke goes deeper into the icefjord than the Blue Dashed Line endpoint of Sermermiut.

The Red Route had decent trail conditions, with some climbs occasionally.

Red markers along the way, so no worry about straying off the path.

We passed two ponds with very clear water.

The sky was clear of clouds today. When the full view of the icefjord appeared under the blue sky, I couldn't help but exclaim "Wow!"

Ice blocks near the shore were relatively smaller, possibly due to pressure.

At that moment, I just wanted to let go of all distractions and sit quietly facing the icefjord. The only sound was the wind whistling, with no other noise. Experiencing this once in a lifetime is enough.

After contemplating life, it was time to greet the whales of Disko Bay. So I got up and headed back to World of Greenland for the last booked activity in Ilulissat—whale watching. In summer, Disko Bay is usually home to humpback whales, minke whales, and fin whales, and sometimes they come close to the town or can be seen in the icefjord. Humpback whales are the most commonly encountered.

This is the fast boat for whale watching. Compared to the boat I used for whale watching in Húsavík, Iceland, this one is faster, more maneuverable, covers a wider sea area, and crucially, had fewer people. So, for those whose itinerary includes both Iceland and Greenland and want to go whale watching, my advice is to choose Greenland only—you can save the money from Iceland whale watching.

As we departed, a helicopter was circling overhead. This is another popular activity by World of Greenland called "Kangia Classic Summer," with helicopters provided by Air Greenland. Due to the aerial advantage, a helicopter tour can take you to the core area of the icefjord, unreachable by boat or on foot, and even land on the glacier. However, this activity is expensive, costing about 3000 RMB per person. Since I had already seen the entire fjord and town from the air on the incoming flight, I didn't think it was worth the expense. Of course, if money is no object, feel free to ignore this.

The process of searching for whales at sea was also a tour of the world's largest "ice sculpture park."

A mother and calf humpback whale had just finished feeding and were leisurely swimming in coastal waters.

The white underside of the tail is a distinguishing feature of humpback whales.

Near the icebergs, we found another family of five.

Rarely poking their heads above water.

These two seemed to be whispering to each other.

Perhaps they had a particularly satisfying meal, as they kept slapping the water with their fins. Even the tour leader said it was the first time he had seen such behavior.

The tail was striking a pose.

Though I was still captivated, compared to my whale watching experience in Iceland, this was quite perfect with no regrets. The entire whale watching session lasted 3.5 hours, thoroughly enjoyable. Reluctantly, the boat left this area.

Back on shore, it was already 4 PM. My flight was at 9:30 PM, leaving enough time to hike the Yellow Route. As mentioned earlier, the Yellow Route runs in the opposite direction from the Red and Blue routes, mainly for viewing icebergs at the mouth of the icefjord.

The white "ribbon" on the tundra in the image below is the wooden boardwalk of the Blue Dashed Route.

The inland area felt quite desolate.

On two hilltops, I saw similar piles of stones stacked up—meaning unknown.

Rocks painted yellow serve as markers for the Yellow Route.

Without further ado, let's just appreciate the view!

Looking back at Ilulissat town from a high point.

Along the way, many fungi-like plants grew on the tundra.

Circling around, we returned to town.

When it was time to leave, my child said we had been here three days without touching the Arctic Ocean's water. Strictly speaking, this is not the Arctic Ocean, but since this is likely the northernmost point on Earth we will ever reach, we can kid ourselves and pretend it is.

Although it was July, the seawater was still very cold—just look at the expression: chilling to the bone!

On the way back, we met a small Eskimo dog and took a photo with the little cutie.

It was time to say goodbye to the Icefjord, a natural heritage site; to Ilulissat; and to Greenland. May humanity reduce carbon emissions from our activities, slow down the melting of this ice kingdom's glaciers, and preserve this beautiful scenery for future generations!

Thus, all the "performances" in Ilulissat came to a perfect close. In two and a half days, not only was the weather cooperative, but the activity schedule was also reasonable and compact, and the chosen activities were diverse, covering all dimensions. So, we essentially experienced the essence of Greenland. I hope my itinerary will inspire and help you when you visit Greenland in the future.

Although Denmark was not the main destination of this trip, the first and last nights of this Nordic journey were spent in Copenhagen. So, as part of a complete itinerary, it is necessary to record my experience in Copenhagen, though not in great detail.

First, about Copenhagen International Airport. Its full name is Copenhagen Kastrup Airport, with three terminals. Terminal 1 is for domestic flights. Terminals 2 and 3 handle international flights as well as flights to Greenland and the Faroe Islands. All international arrivals are at Terminal 3.

If you have extra time to go to Copenhagen city center, the easiest way to travel between the airport and the city is by metro. The metro runs 24/7 and is located at the end of the arrivals hall at the airport. It takes you to Kongens Nytorv or Nørreport stations in central Copenhagen, with trains every 4 minutes and a journey time of under 15 minutes. Tickets can be purchased at DSB ticket machines in Terminal 3. Note: the machines only accept coins and credit cards, not cash.

Since we arrived in Copenhagen at 7 PM on the first day and flew to Reykjavík the next morning, we chose to stay the first night at Park Inn by Radisson Copenhagen Airport, two metro stops from the airport (Femøren station, exit right at the hotel). If you prefer not to travel, you can choose Clarion Hotel Copenhagen Airport, right next to the airport.

I chose Radisson for its brand. As an airport hotel, the facilities were adequate and breakfast was acceptable.

The window faced the metro tracks, but soundproofing was excellent—no noise issues.

Park Inn by Radisson Copenhagen Airport is close to the seaside, about a 10-minute walk. After checking in around 8 PM, I took a walk to the beach while it was still light.

From a distance, I couldn't figure out what that building was; up close, I realized it was a public swimming pool.

Densely packed yachts, all quietly moored in the harbor.

At dusk by the sea, everything was calm.

The National Aquarium Denmark, also known as the Blue Planet, is the largest aquarium in Northern Europe.

The Øresund Bridge connecting Copenhagen, Denmark, and Malmö, Sweden's third-largest city, spans 16 kilometers.

On the last day, we arrived in Copenhagen from Greenland at 7:30 AM, with our return flight to Shanghai departing at 6:40 PM. We had a few hours to explore central Copenhagen.

From the airport, we took the metro to Kongens Nytorv in the city center, then walked 600 meters to the famous Nyhavn.

With our tight schedule, we couldn't sit down with a beer and quietly enjoy the unique scenery.

Nyhavn was originally a very busy commercial port where ships from all over the world docked to rest. Now, the beautiful old buildings along the canal have been renovated, and many upscale restaurants occupy this historic port.

There are sightseeing boats on the canal. Departing from Nyhavn, they take you on a water tour of famous sights such as the Copenhagen Opera House, Amalienborg Palace, Christiansborg Palace, the Black Diamond library, and The Little Mermaid statue.

Along the canal, there is also a striking building where every window is blocked by life jackets. These life jackets come from refugees who have crossed to the Greek island of Lesbos in recent years to escape war.

Hans Christian Andersen once lived at Nyhavn 20, where he wrote his world-famous fairy tales "The Tinderbox," "Little Claus and Big Claus," and "The Princess and the Pea." He also lived at No. 67 for 20 years and at No. 18 for two years.

A 10-minute walk north from Nyhavn brings you to Amalienborg Palace. Amalienborg is considered one of the greatest masterpieces of Danish Rococo architecture, built in the 18th century. It consists of four identical palaces: Christian VII's Palace, Christian VIII's Palace, Frederick VIII's Palace, and Christian IX's Palace. These palaces are arranged around an octagonal courtyard and serve as the main residence of the Danish Queen. If the Danish flag is flying atop the palace, it indicates the Queen is in residence.

Below is a display of the "quadruplets"; you can spot the differences. Christian VII's Palace is used by the Queen for receptions and official representatives; visitors can tour it.

Christian VIII's Palace partly houses the Glücksburg royal museum; visitors can tour it.

Frederick VIII's Palace is not open to the public.

Christian IX's Palace is not open to the public.

In the center of the courtyard stands an equestrian statue of King Frederick V, considered one of the finest equestrian statues in the world. Frederick V died in 1766; the statue was unveiled in 1771.

Amalienborg is also famous for the Danish Royal Guard that patrols the palace.

The Danish Royal Guard leaves Rosenborg Castle at 11:30 AM daily, marches through the streets of Copenhagen, and holds a changing of the guard ceremony at Amalienborg at 12:00 PM. If you want to see the Royal Guard, plan accordingly. When the Queen is in residence, the Royal Band accompanies the changing of the guard.

North of Amalienborg is the Frederik's Church, also known as the Marble Church, the largest copper-green dome church in Denmark, with a dome diameter of 31 meters.

St. Alexander Nevsky Church is the only Russian Orthodox church in Copenhagen, located on the same street as Frederik's Church. It was built by the Russian government from 1881 to 1883 because Tsar Alexander III married Princess Dagmar of Denmark on November 9, 1866.

Kastellet is a military fortress in Copenhagen that played an important role in the defense against England in the early 19th century. It is a must-pass on the way to the Little Mermaid statue. The moat clearly indicates it is a military site.

St. Alban's Church was built between 1885 and 1887, mainly due to the increasing number of British residents in Copenhagen. Its architecture is in the traditional English Gothic Revival style.

Kastellet is shaped like a five-pointed star, with five bastions: King's Bastion, Queen's Bastion, Count's Bastion, Princess's Bastion, and Prince's Bastion.

Although many buildings here still serve military purposes and cannot be freely entered, the lush lawns, abundant trees, streams, windmill, and crowds of tourists make this fortress feel more like a lovely city park.

The Little Mermaid statue is perhaps the most famous tourist attraction in Copenhagen. Located at Langelinje Pier, it is made of bronze and granite, inspired by Hans Christian Andersen's fairy tale about a mermaid who gives up everything in the sea to be with a young human prince.

Every morning and evening, the Little Mermaid swims from the bottom of the sea to the surface, perching on a rock in the water, gazing longingly at the shore, hoping to catch a glimpse of her beloved prince.

Since its unveiling on August 23, 1913, the Little Mermaid statue has been a victim of vandalism multiple times. She has lost her head twice, had an arm sawed off once, and been doused with paint many times. Yet each time, she has been rescued and restored, always standing in her original spot in the water.

May she never suffer harm again!

Rosenborg Castle is the source of Denmark's splendid cultural treasures. The royal family lived here until 1720. Since 1838, the castle, along with all its contents, has been a historical museum.

Six hours in central Copenhagen could only be a whirlwind tour, touching on highlights. I also recommend the Chinese-language website of the Copenhagen Tourism Board, which offers recommendations for 12/24/48-hour itineraries—very helpful.

Nowadays, I often see news about Greenland online, but most of it is about climate warming and glacier melting. Because I've been there, I care even more and feel more pained.

I think global warming is already a common challenge for all humanity, yet many people continue to destroy this beautiful world for their own interests and greed. Although I cannot influence others and my individual strength is negligible, I am willing to start with myself: travel green, reduce carbon emissions from individual activities. May the beautiful scenery endure for more people to appreciate, and may harmony between humans and nature no longer be just empty words!

Travel Log Contents

1. Preface

2. 1. Acquaintance

3. 2. Knowing

4. 3. Falling in Love

5. (1) Flights

6. (2) Itinerary

7. (3) Hotels

8. (4) Activities

9. (5) Visa

10. 4. Love

11. [Day 1]