Savoring Local Flavors in Yixian's Yandu Ancient Town
Since we left Beijing late (the imperial capital, you know—so big, so congested, understandable), by the time we reached the ancient town it was already afternoon, and after all that hassle (see the previous post "Watching the Dancing Girls in Yixian's Yandu Ancient Town"), I was quite worn out—after all, I'm an old youth with a busy mind, so I get tired more easily than others. It was time to find a place to rest and grab a bite.
Anyone who read my last travelogue knows that I'm a little picky about food. So letting myself eat freely is not an easy task (actually, we've been spoiled by modern China—after living through a few great famines, I'd eat anything, what a spoiled habit…). I asked a few old hands in the antique street, waited for some enthusiastic netizens' replies online, and also searched and compared several nearby dining spots myself (mind you, I'm a particular person—though that's shaped by being ~broke~; otherwise why call it 'broke-but-picky'?). The answers were surprisingly unanimous… all pointing to the second floor of the Xuheng Hotel in the ancient town. Don't panic—I am, after all, an experienced foodie who has traveled far and wide. Even though the reviews were good, my cautious nature won't let me settle easily. So driven by hunger and curiosity, I decided to take you all on a visit to check it out, to get a feel for it first.
Pushing open the hotel lobby door, a wave of elegance greeted me. Sure enough, the large Chinese knot and the finely carved chairs, the whole lobby exudes an antique charm with its wooden details. The strong Chinese-style design made me feel extremely comfortable. While admiring it, I also rehearsed in my mind the scene of stepping into such a refined place. After all, hotel front desks usually have a few pretty girls, so I walked up to the front desk with an air of profundity (indeed, three pretty girls were there—nervous!). I put on what I thought was a gentlemanly smile, steadied my voice strained by nerves, and under several kind and polite gazes, asked, "Um, excuse me, the hotel restaurant is on the second floor, right? Is it open for meals now?" Having received an affirmative answer from the young lady, I casually brushed the hem of my not-so-long jacket and strode toward the elevator with what I imagined to be a dashing exit (in hindsight, it might have looked like I was fleeing in their eyes—I'm not sure). Inside the elevator, I rubbed my slightly stiff face. I thought to myself, I must undergo a trial—right now! (I get nervous in situations with many girls, and no amount of life experience has cured that.)
(All three girls dodged when I tried to take a photo—what a shame~~~)
The few seconds inside the elevator felt like a lifetime. When I stepped out and saw the corridor leading to the restaurant, the décor eased my unease: this corridor has a touch of Japanese dry landscape gardens (karesansui), blended with Chinese curio-cabinet designs. It matched the external style of the ancient town beautifully—kudos!
Walking further in, I saw the restaurant's bar counter. At that moment, there was only one young lady behind the counter (my trial had fallen through). Perhaps because I had just faced three at once, the pressure from a single one wasn't as overwhelming anymore. I promptly sat down at a table in front of the counter and said with gusto: Order up! I must say, the restaurant's menu had a great design sense—not like something to fob off diners. The main recommendations were Yunnanese cuisine, which made me curious. Yunnan dishes are very difficult to prepare. Let me explain: Yunnan cuisine, also called Dian cuisine, has been influenced by neighboring provinces and the many ethnic groups within the province, so it has never really formed a cohesive system. Over the years, senior chefs in Yunnan have been promoting the integration of its styles, but all attempts ultimately failed. The reasons are complex, because Yunnan food can be fragrant, spicy, sour, or mild—it carries flavors from Sichuan, Guizhou, Guangxi, and also features dishes from the Yi, Dai, Bai, Miao, and Zhuang peoples. Each has iconic dishes, yet none can represent the whole. It's hard to generalize, hence the complexity. Have you ever tried mango tossed with xiaomila chili peppers? Or suan duoyi (a type of wild fruit) dipped in salt? Tsk tsk~ that taste... unforgettable for life~~~
Looking at the menu, my thoughts drifted far away, until the sweet erhua (rhotic accent) of the young lady pulled me back to the table. I was momentarily dazed, then said firmly, "Can you really make authentic Yunnan dishes?" Gazing at her, I didn't see stars in her eyes, but I saw clear sincerity. At that moment… I knew she wasn't lying. That settled it—mischievous courage swelled in me: fried potatoes, sour bean and red bean soup, green pepper with ham, cold tree moss salad, stir-fried chicken, stir-fried pork, boiled fish, and then... "Are you dining alone?" "Yes," I looked at her. Her little red mouth was slightly agape, her eyes full of shock... Instantly, I realized what I'd done. "Ahem, I have reading difficulties. Just ignore me, I just have a habit of reading the words aloud"… Alright, start over.
Before the dishes even arrived, the aroma had already drifted to my face. I flared my nostrils, trying to tell from the scent whether the dishes were authentic. As I sniffed and savored, I waved the girl away… because drool was about to gush out (my mind said don't be gluttonous, but my body was very honest)~~~ how embarrassing, where was my poise… where was my restraint…
When the head chef heard I was a solo tourist from the south, he was overjoyed (I have no idea why he was so excited—probably just pure enthusiasm). He put down his pots and pans despite being busy and came out specially to meet me. Under his supervision, I stood from "an artistic perspective" and admired the private room setting and dishes on other tables (actually I only wanted to see the food; the environment didn't matter). The dishes arrived one after another. He watched as I started wolfing them down. When I drank the soup, I even buried my face in the big bowl. The chef looked at me and laughed: "Your hair is in the soup." What~~~ I was offended! I thought your soup was beautiful, and you talk about my bangs getting wet? I'm really annoyed~~~ (just kidding—what if he later refused to give me a discount? Poise, poise~~.)
As for how the dishes tasted? I won't tease you folks in front of the screen. Let's just say the "clean plate" speaks for my attitude.
(To be continued in the next post)
