Touring the Land of Yan and Zhao, Feeling the Stirring Ballads – A Two-Day Trip to Shijiazhuang and Baoding

📍 Chiang Mai · 👁 7 reads · ❤️ 468 likes

Hebei has nurtured a rich and splendid civilization since the Stone Age, especially during the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, when the states of Yan and Zhao, as well as the ancient Zhongshan Kingdom, performed many historical legends on this land. The Hebei Museum adopts a thematic exhibition approach, featuring nine permanent halls: Hebei in the Stone Age, Shang Dynasty Civilization in Hebei, Stirring Ballads – Stories of Yan and Zhao, Martial Spirit of the Warring States – Ancient Zhongshan Kingdom, Han Dynasty Masterpiece – Mancheng Han Tombs, Renowned Kilns and Porcelain, Northern Dynasties Murals, Quyang Stone Carvings, and Flames of Resistance – Heroes of Hebei. When I visited, I happened to encounter a touring exhibition of Han tomb artifacts from the Xuzhou Museum. The Hebei Museum’s collection is extensive, offering a comprehensive introduction to the history of the Yan-Zhao region.

Recommendation: ★★★★★

Dinner was at Xiaofangniu, a Hebei chain restaurant that bills itself as the Haidilao of the stir-fry world. The service is warm and attentive, the prices are moderate, and it’s worth a try.

Zhengding Ancient City shines brightly at night, with lights tracing the outline of the city walls. The four pagodas within the city stand out brilliantly, serving as iconic landmarks of the ancient town.

Recommendation: ★★★★

I stayed overnight at the Zhengding Guohao Hotel, close to Zhengding Station but a bit far from the old town. The hotel is relatively new, but the breakfast was rather disappointing.

Recommendation: ★★★

Day 2: Longxing Temple is the attraction with the greatest number and highest value of cultural relics in Zhengding Ancient City, boasting six unique features, most notably a colossal Thousand-Armed and Thousand-Eyed Guanyin statue.

Recommendation: ★★★★★

Tianning Temple is a very small site, now only preserving a wooden pagoda originally built in the Tang Dynasty.

Recommendation: ★★★

Kaiyuan Temple’s main structures include the Sumeru Pagoda, the Bell Tower, and the Triple Gate. The Sumeru Pagoda and the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda share an almost identical appearance, both being typical Tang Dynasty Buddhist pagodas. The Bell Tower is a two-story brick-and-wood structure, both of which are precious protected heritage sites.

Recommendation: ★★★★

For lunch, I opted for a famous local restaurant – Hao’s Ribs, known for its stewed ribs. The Jingjiang shredded pork also tasted great, offering good value for money.

Departing from Zhengding to Baoding.

The Zhili Governor’s Office is the most completely preserved provincial-level government office from the Qing Dynasty, offering a fairly complete glimpse into the administrative structure, departmental setup, official ranks, and treatment during that era.

Recommendation: ★★★★

The Ancient Lotus Pond is located opposite the Zhili Governor’s Office and is a gem of northern ancient gardens. However, the overall scenery of the site is not particularly outstanding; the views should be better in summer.

Recommendation: ★★★

Baoding and Shijiazhuang have each served as Hebei’s provincial capital at different times. Touring these two cities, it’s not difficult to catch a glimpse of Hebei’s past and present over the past century. Baoding, its former glory now a chapter of history, remains a down-to-earth, unpretentious northern city full of life. Wandering its streets, the cries of vendors and the many small shops let you feel the daily life and warm humanity of ordinary people. Shijiazhuang, a city brought into being by the railway, has developed to this day thanks to its unique geographic advantages. Shijiazhuang Station is also the only provincial-capital station served by both the Beijing–Guangzhou Railway and the Beijing–Guangzhou High-Speed Railway. Yet history tells us time and again: there is no once-and-for-all success; only persistent effort can keep you riding the wave.

Note: Attraction and hotel recommendations are rated from low to high as Not Recommended, ★★★, ★★★★, ★★★★★.

Travelogue Contents

1. Day 1: Hebei Museum – Zhengding Ancient City

2. Day 2: Zhengding Longxing Temple – Zhengding Tianning Temple – Zhengding Kaiyuan Temple – Baoding Zhili Governor’s Office – Baoding Ancient Lotus Pond

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