Travel in Hebei: A Journey to the Western Qing Tombs in Yi County (Photos)

In Yi County, Hebei, there is the famous Western Qing Tombs. The vast 83-square-kilometer necropolis, centered on 14 Qing dynasty royal tombs and supplemented by the temporary palace, Yongfu Temple, barracks, and government offices, forms the largest, best-preserved, and most architecturally diverse ancient imperial tomb complex in China.

Western Qing Tombs Scenic Area (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Stone Archway at the Western Qing Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

On May 6, 2007, the journalist, together with Cao Qun, president of Beijing Aiche Sunshine, and his team, took this as a key project on the Beijing Aiche self-driving tour route of Yi County. Accompanied by Liu Xuejun, then director of the Yi County Tourism Bureau, and deputy director Zhao Hezhong, they visited the Western Qing Tombs for inspection and exploration.

Pailou inside the Western Qing Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

A Photo at the Western Qing Tombs (Photo: Cao Qun)

Strolling into this vast architectural complex, which was designated as one of the first batch of National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units by the State Council of the People's Republic of China in 1961, listed as a World Cultural Heritage site in 2000, and rated as a 5A-level tourist attraction by the Ministry of Culture and Tourism on January 7, 2020, I could also hear the detailed explanations from the guide specially assigned for this visit.

Entering the Western Qing Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Chong Tomb at the Western Qing Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

The Western Qing Tombs are located at the foot of Yongning Mountain, 15 kilometers west of Yi County, Baoding City, Hebei Province, covering an area of more than 800 square kilometers. It is the last imperial tomb complex of the Qing dynasty. Construction began in 1730 (the eighth year of the Yongzheng reign), continued through the mid-18th to early 19th centuries, and extended into the Republican era.

Entering the Underground Palace (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Stone Statue in the Underground Palace (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In fact, the original tomb site chosen by Emperor Yongzheng was at Jiufeng Chaoyang Mountain in the Eastern Qing Tombs. However, he thought that 'though the scale is large, the terrain is incomplete, and the soil in the cavity contains sand and stones, making it truly unusable,' so he abandoned that site and ordered another 'auspicious eternal resting place' to be found.

A Photo at Chong Tomb, Western Qing Tombs (Photo: Wang Jue)

Overlooking a Corner of the Western Qing Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

At that time, the tomb site selectors reported that beneath Yongning Mountain in Yi County was 'an area where heaven and earth gather elegance, a place where yin and yang converge, where dragon veins, lair, sand, and water are all perfect. The landscape and geomantic energy possess every auspicious feature.' Emperor Yongzheng was very pleased upon reading this and agreed that 'the mountain veins and water patterns are clear and detailed, truly an upper auspicious land.' From then on, Qing emperors were buried alternately in the Eastern Tombs in Zunhua and the Western Tombs in Yi County.

A Corner of Architecture at the Western Qing Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Altar at the Western Qing Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

In the journalist's view, it was fortunate that Emperor Yongzheng's decision to choose Yi County as the tomb site, in a way, inadvertently avoided the notorious fate of being looted by the warlord Feng Dianying, the 'Tomb Raider of the Eastern Tombs.' Of course, this is just a lighthearted remark; no one could have predicted that, and history is history.

Wandering at the Western Qing Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Bell Tower of Yongfu Temple inside the Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

So, exactly how many members of the Qing imperial family are buried here? The guide explained that from the construction of the first tomb, Yongzheng's Tai Tomb, until the completion of the Guangxu Emperor's Chong Tomb in 1915, spanning 186 years, the Western Qing Tombs contain four imperial tombs: Tai Tomb (Emperor Yongzheng), Chang Tomb (Emperor Jiaqing), Mu Tomb (Emperor Daoguang), and Chong Tomb (Emperor Guangxu); three empress tombs: Tai Dong Tomb, Chang Xi Tomb, and Mu Dong Tomb; three concubine tombs; and four other tombs (Prince Huai Tomb, Princess Tomb, Prince A-ge Tomb, Prince Wang Tomb, etc.). In total, four emperors, nine empresses, 56 consorts, and over 70 princes, dukes, and princesses are buried here.

Tomb Platform Pathway (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Tomb Platform Ramparts (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

It is worth mentioning that the Xuantong Emperor Puyi, who died in 1967, was initially buried at Babaoshan. Later, in 1995, his remains were moved to the Hualong Royal Cemetery within the Western Qing Tombs. Covering a building area of over 50,000 square meters, with more than 1,000 palace rooms and over 100 stone carvings and stone structures, it forms a grand and magnificent ancient architectural complex.

A Corner inside the Tomb Area (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Sacrificial Ceremony (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Walking into the Western Qing Tombs, one sees a vast array of complete ancient buildings beneath resplendent golden halls. As it was during the May Day 'Golden Week' holiday, a grand performance reenacting the 'Qing Imperial Sacrificial Ceremony' was also held. The spectacular scene attracted many tourists to watch.

Long'en Hall at the Western Qing Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Ancient Pines and Cypresses inside the Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Today, apart from the immense ancient architectural complex, the Western Qing Tombs is also a scenic tourist destination with an elegant environment and beautiful scenery. Within the 800-square-kilometer area, stretching 200 li in circumference, lies the largest man-made ancient pine forest in North China.

Statue inside the Hall (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Stone Wall outside the Underground Palace (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

From the start of construction, the Qing dynasty planted tens of thousands of pine trees at the foot of Yongning Mountain, along the Yishui River, and inside and outside the tombs. Today, there are 15,000 ancient pines and over 200,000 young pines and cypresses. The tomb area is lush with pines and cypresses, with clear waters and green hills. The 14 tombs are nestled among the pine forests, half-hidden, like a splendid landscape painting.

Screen Wall inside the Tombs (Photo: Feng Ganyong)

Group Photo (Photo: Lin Lan)

The journalist and his companions, visiting the Western Qing Tombs, deeply felt that the magnificent natural scenery and the spectacular cultural landscape of the ancient architectural complex are perfectly integrated here. The remote, mysterious, and antiquely transcendent scenes were unforgettable and made them reluctant to leave. (Text and photos: Feng Ganyong)