Summer 2014 Private Customized Three Gorges Travel Notes
Every summer vacation, I struggle with whether to take my child on a trip, and this year was no exception. The main reasons are the intense summer heat, the need for a companion for the child, and the challenge of coordinating vacation time with adults. After failing to resolve these issues, I decided to take my family on a budget trip. Based on pre-trip research and online guides, I customized a self-guided tour along the Yangtze River Three Gorges. We started from Chaozhou by train to Wuhan, stayed one day in Wuhan, then took a bullet train to Yichang, followed by a cruise to Chongqing, stayed three days in Chongqing, and finally flew back. The entire trip lasted nine days.
I. Detailed Itinerary:
Day 1 (Saturday, August 16): Chaozhou to Wuchang on a regular fast train, departing at 17:35, overnight in a soft sleeper.
Day 2 (Sunday, August 17): Arrive at noon. Lunch at the Yonghe Restaurant in Wuchang Railway Station. Then taxi to Home Inn Shouyi Branch in Wuhan. After a short rest, visit Hubei Provincial Museum, Hankou River Beach, and Optics Valley Pedestrian Street. Dinner.
Days 3-7 (Monday to Friday, August 18-22): Morning visit to Wuchang Uprising Museum and Memorial Hall, with a distant view of Yellow Crane Tower. Afternoon visit to Guqin Terrace and Guiyuan Temple. Then head to Hankou Railway Station. Light meals at McDonald's and Yonghe Restaurant at the station.
Take bullet train from Hankou to Yichang, departing 15:06, arriving at Yichang East Railway Station at 17:08. Simple dinner at the station.
At 6:00 PM, a travel company car picks us up from the station to board the Golden Five cruise ship. On the 19th, visit Three Gorges Dam; on the 20th morning, visit Lesser Three Gorges and Mini Three Gorges; on the 21st afternoon, visit Fengdu Ghost City; other times free activities on the ship.
Optional paid stops offered by the cruise include Three Gorges Tribe and Baidicheng, which we did not attend.
Day 7 (Friday, August 22): Disembark after breakfast at 8:00 AM. Join a group for a one-day tour of Chongqing. After being picked up by the travel company, visit the Grand Hall, Yangtze River Cableway, Huguang Guild Hall, Zhazidong, Baigongguan, Ciqikou, and Hongyadong. Disband at the hotel (Roof Top Hotel). Explore Hongyadong commercial area and have dinner.
Day 8: Join a VIP one-day tour to Wulong, visiting Tiankeng and Difeng scenic areas. Return to the city at 5:00 PM, disband at Jiaochangkou at 8:00 PM. Overnight at Hilton Hotel.
Day 9: At 11:00 AM, visit Ciqikou again. At 3:00 PM, return to the city to visit Jiefangbei, then take Metro Line 3 to the airport. Evening flight back to Jieyang Chaoshan Airport - Chaozhou.
II. Expenses: Total about 12,750 RMB for one family (excluding shopping).
Two adults and one child (height 125 cm, under 12 years old). Child needs half-price tickets for trains and planes, free admission to scenic spots and battery cars, full price for cable cars.
(1) Transportation: 9,548.5 RMB
Outbound: Train soft sleeper to Wuhan, adult ticket about 460 RMB, total 1,009 RMB; Wuhan to Yichang train, adult first-class seat 102 RMB, child 53.5 RMB, total 257.5 RMB.
Middle: Three Gorges cruise Golden Five, Yichang upstream to Chongqing downstream five days and four nights, includes meals, accommodation, activities, and free scenic spots. Adult 2,450 RMB, child 500 RMB, total 5,400 RMB.
Return: Chongqing Jiangbei to Jieyang Chaoshan Airport flight, adult at 60% discount 918 RMB, child 810 RMB, total 2,646 RMB.
City buses, subway, and taxis in Wuhan and Chongqing: 176 RMB.
Other: ① Scenic spot self-paid battery cars: Hankou River Beach, Wulong Tiankeng, Three Gorges Dam total 90 RMB (15 RMB/person each); ② Yangtze River Cableway: 60 RMB for 3 tickets.
(2) Accommodation: 916 RMB
Wuhan 1 night, Home Inn group purchase price 119 RMB.
Chongqing 2 nights: Hongyadong commercial area Roof Top Hotel 408 RMB (35 RMB cashback); Hilton Hotel near Lianglukou 424 RMB.
(3) Group tours: 1,453 RMB
Chongqing one-day tour: 38 RMB per person, same price for adult and child, total 114 RMB (3 RMB cashback).
Wulong one-day tour: 359 RMB per adult, child refund 95 RMB, total 982 RMB.
Mini Three Gorges self-paid tour: 120 RMB per person, same price for adult and child, total 360 RMB.
(4) Meals: 524 RMB
Wuhan: about 286 RMB; Chongqing: about 238 RMB. Group tours and cruise include some meals.
(5) Self-purchased scenic spot tickets: Guqin Terrace 30 RMB for 2, Guiyuan Temple 30 RMB for 2.
(6) Donations, worship, and photos: 40+100+30 RMB.
(7) Shopping and others.
III. Scenic Spots (in order of visit):
1. Hubei Provincial Museum
I think it's a relatively large museum in China, slightly less than the National Museum and Shaanxi Museum. It offers insight into the ancient civilization of the middle Yangtze River. Highlights include four treasures: Warring States chime bells, Yue Kingdom sword, Yuan dynasty blue-and-white porcelain, and ancient skull fossils. You can also listen to a performance of ancient chime bells (extra 15 RMB). We visited after checking in, mainly to enjoy the air conditioning. Afterward, we could have visited the Art Museum and East Lake, but it was almost 4 PM and the chime performance had ended; the Art Museum was also closed. East Lake didn't interest the child much (no cherry blossoms). Then we headed to Hankou River Beach.
2. Hankou River Beach
Historically, it symbolizes the rise and fall of "Greater Wuhan." Many Western-style buildings, notably the Jianghan Customs Building. One side is an open river beach park about 7 km long, popular for leisure. We took a battery car. I think it can't compare to Shanghai's Bund or Guangzhou's White Swan area or Pearl River New Town. Actually, it's not as good as our Binjiang Corridor, just longer. It's said the night view is beautiful with bars, but we were hungry and went to Optics Valley.
3. World City·Optics Valley Pedestrian Street
Also Optics Valley Square, similar to Guangzhou's Tianhe City, but with new Western-style planning including modern, Spanish, Italian, French, and Nordic streets. From east to west, starting from Arc de Triomphe, through Rhine Square, Düsseldorf Square, to Caesar Square, Juliet Wedding Square, Mont Napoleon Square, Berlin Square, Picasso Square, Spanish Square, Bullfighting Square, and sunken square. You can feel architecture and food from various countries. The child liked it. We ate Korean food.
4. Wuchang Uprising Memorial Hall, Revolution Museum, Shouyi Square
The memorial hall was formerly the Hubei Provincial Assembly Hall, built in 1909, a red brick building known as Red Building. On October 10, 1911, the Wuchang Uprising started here, overthrowing the feudal monarchy. The square commemorates the uprising. The museum was built for the 100th anniversary. The memorial hall is the main historic site. All three are together near our hotel. After a morning rain, we visited these places, took a photo at the base of Yellow Crane Tower but didn't go up (under renovation, 80 RMB ticket). Since we had seen it before, we took a taxi over Wuhan Yangtze River Bridge to the other side, where Turtle Mountain Park and TV tower are. But we went to Guqin Terrace instead.
5. Guqin Terrace (Yu Boya Terrace)
Located at the west foot of Guishan, east bank of Moon Lake, built in the Northern Song Dynasty to commemorate the story of Yu Boya and Zhong Ziqi, "high mountain and flowing water meeting a soulmate." According to legend, Boya played music here, and woodcutter Ziqi understood his melodies. After Ziqi died, Boya broke his instrument and never played again. The terrace has rich cultural atmosphere; listening to guqin and zheng music is charming. It would be even better with a side of gongfu tea. The place is small. Following a local's suggestion, we went to another nearby attraction.
6. Guiyuan Temple
Located in Hanyang, built in 1658, one of Wuhan's important temples, but similar to other temples. We went to pray for safety and good journey. It's near Guqin Terrace and not far from Hankou Station. The most distinctive feature is the Arhat Hall with 500 gilded arhats. The taxi driver told us to count arhats and get a fortune slip (extra charge). We counted but didn't get it interpreted.
Travel tips: Wuhan's most famous is Yellow Crane Tower; others include East Lake and Hubu Alley. We had visited before. Accommodation suggestions: near Yima Square (with Shouyi Square, Yellow Crane Tower, close to Wuchang Station), near the Provincial Museum (with Art Museum and East Lake), or along Metro Line 2 (Optics Valley or Jianghan Road Pedestrian Street).
(II) Yangtze Three Gorges
7. Three Gorges Dam
The world's largest water conservancy project. Three scenic spots: Tanziling, 185 Platform, and Closure Memorial Park. We visited the first two. We didn't see the dam crest flood discharge. We visited at 2 PM in strong sun, but there were escalators. The experience: the country is powerful, the project is spectacular, and it benefits millions downstream.
At Tanziling, we saw the five-step ship lock, which we passed through that evening after dinner on the cruise (about 2 hours). Many people watched from the deck.
8. Lesser Three Gorges and Mini Three Gorges
Lesser Three Gorges are the lower reaches of Daning River tributary: Longmen Gorge, Bawu Gorge, Dicui Gorge. Features include strange peaks, waterfalls, hanging coffins, and ancient villages. We saw one hanging coffin from afar.
Mini Three Gorges on Madu River is narrower and requires changing to a small black-awning boat. Along the way, bamboo flute sounds or local Ba people singing. The boatman explained and sang. We donated 20 RMB and got two keychains.
9. Fengdu Ghost City
Located in Fengdu County on the north bank of the Yangtze. Known for unique ghost culture. Buildings are blue-toned, with Hell's Bridge, Gate of Hell, Wangxiang Terrace, Jade Emperor Hall, and 18 levels of hell. We passed the first three gates. The guide said if you don't blush or have a racing heart, you haven't done wrong. Crossing Naihe Bridge requires couples to hold hands and look at each other for a future together.
Travel tips: The Three Gorges section is from Xiling Gorge in Yichang to Wu Gorge and Qutang Gorge before Baidicheng. Many historic sites. Cruise is relaxed; for in-depth, consider a land trip along the Yangtze banks in the future. For example, Qu Yuan's hometown, Wang Zhaojun's hometown, Yunyang Zhang Fei Temple, Shennv Peak, Shennong Stream, Shibaozhai, etc. November offers red leaves, but it may be cold on the cruise. Suggest hiring a local speedboat for Lesser Three Gorges.
(III) Chongqing
10. Yangtze River Cableway
A cross-river cableway from city center to the other side. It's said to be the only one across the Yangtze in China. Popular due to movies like "Crazy Stone." Locals pay 3 RMB per ride with transit card; tourists pay 10 RMB one way. Round trip 20 RMB. I suggest skipping it—too crowded, especially with kids. The cable car is like a bus cabin, standing room for 20.
11. People's Grand Hall
Located on Renmin Road, a pseudo-classical architecture group, one of Chongqing's landmarks, somewhat like Beijing's Temple of Heaven. Originally built as "Southwest Military and Political Assembly Hall," renamed in 1955. In front is People's Square. The tour only sees the exterior; entrance costs 10 RMB. Nearby is a display of Chongqing intangible cultural heritage, a shopping point but with unique products. Local specialties are cheaper than in the city.
12. Huguang Guild Hall
Also called Yu Wang Temple, a complex of ancient buildings from early Qing dynasty, including Guangdong Guild, Qi'an Guild, etc. It is the largest ancient guild hall complex in a city center. Built during Qianlong period, expanded in Daoguang. It was a meeting place for merchants from Hubei and Hunan. Historically, many guilds operated in Chongqing. This area is now collectively called Huguang Guild Hall. It's related to the "Huguang filling Sichuan" migration.
13. Zhou Junji Hot Pot Industrial Park
An industrial tourism site, production base for Zhou Junji hot pot ingredients. The one-day tour includes lunch there: self-service hot pot 68 RMB per person. Also a supermarket. It's a bit rundown, not as clean as expected.
14. Zhazidong and Baigongguan
Zhazidong was a former coal mine turned into a secret prison by the KMT in 1938. Baigongguan was a villa turned prison. In 1943, it became a guesthouse. These are related to the novel "Red Rock." The child knew about "Little Carrot Head" (a child prisoner). Others imprisoned: General Huang Xiansheng, Zhou Junshi, Liao Chengzhi, Song Qiyun, Xu Linxia (parents of Little Carrot Head). Both sites are at the ends of Geleshan, forming a red tourism route. Also nearby: Red Rock Square, Martyrs Cemetery, and Southwest University of Political Science and Law.
15. Ciqikou
An ancient town in Shapingba District, west of the city center. Named for porcelain production. It was a busy water and land dock. Famous for Mao Xue Wang, Ruan Kuai Qian Zhang, Jiao Yan Ma Hua. Now a Ming-Qing style street with specialty shops. Very crowded. Chen Mahua shops have long queues. It's okay to spend time in tea houses, listen to Sichuan opera, eat local snacks. Nearby Baolun Temple is an ancient temple where the Jianwen Emperor allegedly lived in seclusion. The one-day tour allowed 40 minutes. The child got interested in braiding hair, so we later took the subway back. Free admission, which is generous compared to many ancient villages charging 80 RMB.
16. Hongyadong
Located in the core commercial area of Jiefangbei, at the confluence of the Yangtze and Jialing rivers. Features traditional Bayu stilted buildings built along the mountain and river. It's a 13-floor complex with folk customs, shopping, dining, and entertainment. Especially beautiful at night. Streets: Zhiyanhe Bar Street, Tiancheng Lane Bayu Style Street, Feast Food Street, and City Balcony. The one-day tour usually ends here. Our hotel was nearby; we explored and ate.
17. Wulong Tiankeng (Natural Three Bridges) and Difeng (Ground Fissure)
Tiankeng: Three natural stone bridges: Tianlong, Qinglong, Heilong. They are the largest natural bridge group in Asia. Scenic spot used in Zhang Yimou's "Curse of the Golden Flower" and "Transformers."
Difeng: A 5 km long gorge, 200-500 m deep, spectacular. Both are part of Wulong core scenic area. Tickets bought at Fairy Mountain Town visitor center. We joined a one-day VIP tour, convenient and cost-effective. Regular tour 309 RMB, VIP 359 RMB includes 25 RMB meal. Self-travel would be more expensive (bus ticket 60 RMB each way).
Travel tips: Wulong is worth visiting, but 3 hours from Chongqing city. Consider a two-day tour to stay on the mountain and watch the "Impression Wulong" show. Also visit Fairy Mountain grassland, Tiankeng, Furong Cave. Difeng is similar to other gorges. Dazu Rock Carvings are also famous.
IV. Travel Feelings
This is a suitable route for family trips, comfortable and semi-independent. Often we could sleep in. Wuhan day was free; Chongqing had one day of pure shopping. Except for the Wulong day requiring early rising, other times were relaxed and enjoyable.
We prepared thoroughly, the itinerary was reasonable, costs minimized, and the trip went smoothly without delays. The flight even departed 10 minutes early. We experienced various transport modes: train soft sleeper, bullet train, plane, cruise, boat, and awning boat, plus city buses and subway.
Although summer, the weather was good. The hot city of Wuhan wasn't hot due to rain. On the cruise, temperature stayed below 30°C, with air conditioning. Two spots (Three Gorges Dam and Fengdu) were a bit sunny, but escalators helped. In Chongqing, it was below 25°C, perfect for shorts and t-shirts. On Wulong mountain, it was cooler but not cold while walking.
The route wasn't tiring. The cruise covered the scenic essence with short walks. Free activities on the top deck: tai chi, sunbathing, or in the sun cafe chatting, playing cards, drinking coffee/tea. My daughter swam twice in the small pool, watched "Frozen" and "Transformers 4" in the cinema, and made a friend from Beijing. Evenings we enjoyed beer and performances in the bar. The cruise was stable (17,500 tons), sleeping was smooth.
The Chongqing city tour was a bit rushed but not tiring, covering most city sights. The Wulong day trip took 4.5 hours for two spots; elevators went down 200m, then flat or downhill paths for about 2km, no uphill.
Wuhan and Chongqing have low consumption. Even in high-end commercial areas, prices are similar to Guangzhou Beijing Road or our Xin Qiaodong, far lower than Guangzhou's Tianhe City or Shenzhen's Mixc. Both cities are building subways, causing mess. Construction-wise, Wuhan lags behind Guangzhou by about 10 years, Chongqing by 12 years. However, Jiefangbei cross street feels like a big city, and the Nan'an new district is beautiful. Chongqing is famous for spicy hot pot; Wuhan for duck necks (Zhou Hei Ya, Jing Wu duck head).
The Three Gorges are no longer as magnificent as imagined. Dams have raised water levels up to 175m, making steep mountains look ordinary. Many historical sites are submerged, and we no longer see trackers or hear apes. It's a pity we didn't visit before 2003. But higher water has made Lesser Three Gorges and Mini Three Gorges popular. Small towns like Wuxian, Fengjie, Fengdu, Fuling have built new cities on mountainsides, looking like mini Hong Kong.
V. Travel Tips
1. Book and depart early.
The itinerary is tightly linked; any delay affects the next leg. Arrive early at stations/airports to browse or eat. Large stations need time for security and check-in. Free photo souvenirs are available at Hankou Railway Station and Chongqing Jiangbei Airport.
Booking early saves money: ① Flights: even in peak summer, we got 60% discount; off-peak about 50%. Direct flight 2 hours. ② Train tickets: book early for soft sleeper or first-class seat. Soft sleeper is limited. ③ Cruise: early booking saves 50-100 RMB; for Century cruises, 20 days early saves 300 RMB. ④ Hotels: early booking gets good prices. Home Inn group price 119 RMB vs walk-in 200 RMB; Roof Top Hotel reserved in advance; Hilton non-refundable price lower. ⑤ VIP tours also need early booking. Regular one-day tour 38 RMB online vs 88-128 RMB through other channels.
After designing the itinerary, book everything (over 10,000 RMB paid before departure). Then travel without carrying much cash. Avoid changes; cancellation fees can be high (cruise change fee 500 RMB per ticket).
Our bookings: train tickets via 12306 app; flights and hotels via Ctrip app; cruise via Tmall Sichuan Global Travel; Chongqing and Wulong tours via Chongqing Hanglu Travel. Sellers sent SMS confirmations, contacted one day before.
2. Cruise tips.
Yangtze Three Gorges is China's only inland river cruise route. Upstream Yichang to Chongqing 5 days 4 nights, downstream 4 days 3 nights. Same price for both directions. Includes three free meals and three free scenic spots. Ships: best are Explorer (price unknown), Century series (3000-3100 RMB), then Golden series (2450-2500 RMB), President series (2150 RMB), Victoria and Kai series (1750 RMB), and lower. High-end ships 20-day early booking saves 300 RMB. In September low season, Century tickets can be as low as 2050 RMB, cheaper than Golden 2450 RMB and slightly better.
We took Golden Five, so-called five-star. I'd rate lobby five-star, room four-star, restaurant three-star. Buffet meals were filling but ordinary; final dinner was a set meal with over 20 dishes (wasteful). Facilities: cinema, bar, sun cafe, walking street, gym were good. Coffee shop was free and comfortable. Pool and wave pool small for kids.
Onboard consumptions were high: popcorn 30 RMB, mahjong 80 RMB/hour, movie ticket 35 RMB. We pre-booked a family package: 300 RMB for 15 drinks (beer, juice) and 5 movie tickets, plus reserved seats for evening shows. Room upgrade: 300 RMB per floor. Dining upgrade to VIP view: 300 RMB per person. No free WiFi; paid and expensive. We brought our own hotspot.
Some add-on costs were unreasonable. Three Gorges Tribe 280 RMB, Baidicheng 280 RMB, Mini Three Gorges 120 RMB. Children under 120 cm get half price; ours was 124 cm, so full adult price. One add-on cost 840 RMB for family. The included visit was only 2 hours and missed other parts. For example, Three Gorges Tribe local tour would cost 190 RMB for a full day including all three sections (ticket alone 220 RMB). We skipped most add-ons, only did Mini Three Gorges. Baidicheng ticket is 120 RMB; Ctrip advance 105 RMB, but cruise charges 280 RMB.
3. Mistakes
- The Home Inn booking was a mistake. Group price 119 RMB was cheap but poor location: 800m from bus stop, far from metro, construction nearby. Taxi drivers couldn't find it easily.
- Chongqing one-day tour was a regular group, rushed, crowded, poor bus. For quality, choose VIP tours, though none recommended for Chongqing city tour.
V. Precautions
① Bring your own mobile hotspot. Cruise has no WiFi; Hilton charges 120 RMB/day. Bring night-vision binoculars for viewing on cruise or outdoor performances. Swimwear and goggles if child wants to swim.
② At Wuchang Station, taxis queue but touts offer rides with extra 20 RMB. We fell for it. Every city's station is a scam hub.
③ On Mini Three Gorges tour, bought two packs of local chicken jerky for 100 RMB each from the boatman. Later in Chongqing, same product sold for 50 RMB. So we bought two more.
① Above itinerary for reference. Photos in QQ space 55525105, all taken with phone.
② For quality travel, book Century cruise 20 days in advance. For Wulong, take a two-day tour and stay on mountain, then return to city by 4 PM to catch evening flight to Jieyang.
③ Shopping: personal preference. Chongqing vegetarian meat (dried tofu) in small packs, various flavors, can be torn. Beef flavor tastes like steak. Local chicken jerky also good. Both come in spicy. Three Gorges stones are beautiful, various colors, stone jewelry affordable.
④ If avoiding 18-hour train to Wuhan, take flight (two daily, about 600 RMB advance). Or direct flight to Yichang Sanxia Airport from Xiamen. We considered evening flights far from city without metro. Train arrival at noon allowed immediate sightseeing. For groups, soft sleeper compartment is comfortable.
⑤ If used to trains, Chaozhou now has direct train to Chongqing North, hard seat about 290 RMB. Soft sleeper 863 RMB, similar to flight.
