‘Depart at Dawn from Baidi, Arrive at Jiangling by Dusk’ — Yangtze Three Gorges & Chongqing: A Perfect National Day Getaway
While abroad, a foreign friend once asked me: 'China has many interesting places, can you tell me which one is the most worth visiting? Just one, please.'
I've been asked this many times, and the answer that often pops out is: 'The Three Gorges!'
— Yu Qiuyu, *A Bitter Journey Through Culture*
'Leaving at dawn the White Emperor crowned with cloud, I've sailed a thousand miles through canyons in a day.' 'No other waters can ever compare to the sea; no other clouds but those of Wu Mountain linger in my memory.' 'Sunrise in the east, rain in the west — is it fair or foul, hard to tell.' These familiar lines all point to the magnificent landscape of our motherland — the Three Gorges of the Yangtze. During the 2017 National Day holiday, we embarked on a journey through the Three Gorges, feasting on its picture-postcard scenery and witnessing the grandeur of the Three Gorges Project.
First, a quick introduction to the Three Gorges.
Stretching from Baidicheng in Fengjie County, Chongqing in the west to Nanjinguan in Yichang, Hubei in the east, the Three Gorges — Qutang Gorge, Wu Gorge and Xiling Gorge from west to east — cover 193 km of world-class, poetically beautiful inland canyon scenery. Along the way, in Wushan County, there are the Little Three Gorges on the Daning River and the even smaller Small Little Three Gorges on the Madu River. Within Chongqing's river landscape you'll also find Fengdu Ghost City, the 'Home of Eastern Opera'; the uniquely shaped Shibaozhai; Zhang Fei Temple, a famed Ba-Shu site; and the Tuogu Hall of Liu Bei, Emperor of Shu Han. And Kuimen, or the 'Mouth of Qutang,' is the scene on the back of the 10 yuan note of the fifth renminbi series.
Kuimen — the 10 yuan note background
The fourth season of the Chinese Poetry Conference even featured a question about Kuimen. As the saying goes, 'Read ten thousand books, travel ten thousand miles.' If any contestant had actually been to the Three Gorges, answering that question would be a piece of cake, haha!
After this background, let me give you an overview of our trip, with a couple of touring maps.
The best way to explore the Three Gorges is by cruise ship. There are two main routes: downstream from Chongqing to Yichang, or upstream from Yichang to Chongqing — known respectively as the downstream and upstream journeys, differing by about one day. Once you board, everything — meals, accommodation, activities — is arranged by the ship, much like a group tour. So there's really no need to book through a travel agency; they only handle transport tickets, transfers and the cruise ticket, but on the ship you follow the ship's programme anyway. You can buy cruise tickets yourself for greater flexibility. We, for instance, stayed an extra two days in Chongqing after arriving. Tickets are available on Ctrip, with plenty of choices nowadays. When I booked there were very few options, so I reserved through the Yangtze Cruise Ticketing Sales Network — a legitimate website; I even checked their credentials to be sure. Cabins range from interior rooms, deluxe standard cabins to king-bed rooms, and some can accommodate extra beds, with prices varying accordingly — just pick what suits you. Our trip was upstream from Yichang to Chongqing, five days and four nights. Ships usually sail at night and dock during the day for excursions. The pace is relaxed and hassle-free, perfect for families with elderly and children. Some daytime excursions are optional — Three Gorges Tribe, Small Little Three Gorges, Baidicheng, Shibaozhai, etc. You can opt out. Prices are genuinely not cheap, since even docking would incur considerable costs, or so we were told.
Cruise ship selection: Different classes mean different prices and amenities, roughly divided into ordinary and luxury cruises. Luxury ones are further rated four-star, five-star, super five-star, etc. Ordinary ships are like budget hotels, luxury ones like four- or five-star hotels. Many luxury ships cater to international travellers, with foreign passengers and bilingual Chinese-English guides. Super five-star ships include some in the Gold Series, President Series, and Victoria Series; you can look them up online or ask sales consultants. I won't go through them all here. We chose the Golden 6, one of the most luxurious ships on the Yangtze, with an outdoor swimming pool, a helipad, a shopping street, a cinema, and an interpretation conference hall. It was supremely comfortable and glamorous — highly recommended.
The five-star hotel floating on the river — Golden 6
The ultra-luxurious Golden cruise ship, truly living up to its name, grand and elegant.
Why pick a Three Gorges cruise for the National Day holiday? During the October break, everywhere is packed. Why then recommend a cruise? Because the number of ships is fixed, space is limited, and cabins are finite, so at least meals and accommodation are comfortable, and you won't feel crowded on board. Of course the scenic spots can still get very busy, but given the peak holiday context, it's actually quite tolerable.
A word on safety: After the 2015 cruise accident, many remain uneasy. I asked specifically about this. Since that incident, regulations are extremely strict; sailings are absolutely prohibited in extreme weather. As long as you choose a reputable company and ship, safety shouldn't be a concern.
Now that you have the background, let's dive into this unforgettable and wonderful journey.
Date: October 2017
Route: Tianjin — Yichang (by Three Gorges cruise) — Chongqing — Tianjin
Detailed itinerary:
Day 1: Tianjin → Yichang (transfer via Wuhan), board at Yichang New Century Dock (meals and accommodation on board from then on)
Day 2: The fantastic and magnificent Xiling Gorge
Morning: Optional excursion — Three Gorges Tribe (extra charge) ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Afternoon: Shore visit — Three Gorges Dam (included)
Evening: Captain's welcome cocktail party; movie *Transformers 5*; dance party & fun time (detailed schedule below)
Passing through the five-level ship lock (breathtaking, the most classic and unforgettable) **********
Day 3: Morning: The poetic and picturesque Wu Gorge
Little Three Gorges (included), Small Little Three Gorges (extra charge) ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Afternoon: The majestic and precipitous Qutang Gorge
Shore visit — Baidicheng (Kuimen) scenic area (extra charge) ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Evening: Golden Three Gorges theme show; movie *Logan*
Day 4: Morning: Mid-Autumn Festival mooncake DIY activity; shore visit — Fengdu Ghost City (included)
Afternoon: Visit the bridge of the 10,000-ton luxury cruise ship; movie *The Great Wall*
Evening: Farewell banquet; 'Enchanted Three Gorges' show; movie *Allied*
Day 5: Arrive at Chongqing Chaotianmen Dock, check into hotel (near Jiefangbei)
Afternoon: Zhazidong (Prison) — Bai Mansion — Ciqikou — Jiefangbei
Day 6: Chongqing Three Gorges Museum (⭐⭐⭐⭐) — Great Hall of the People — Hongyadong (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐) — Two Rivers Night Cruise (⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐)
Day 7: Ride the Yangtze River Cableway, fly back to Tianjin
⚡⚡⚡⚡⚡ Special Note! (Pay attention!):
I took the cruise in October 2017, when luxury ships docked at Yichang New Century Dock and sailed upstream through the Five-level Ship Lock, giving me the chance to experience the marvel of 'big ships climbing stairs' and see the Three Gorges Dam's grandeur firsthand. However, starting January 2018, the Ministry of Transport revoked the priority lock passage for tourist ships (previously they could cut the queue). Now virtually all tourist ships skip the lock and dock at Zigui (or Maoping) instead. So this part of my account differs from the current reality. If you plan to go, be sure to ask beforehand.
Day 1: Tianjin → Yichang (transfer via Wuhan), board at Yichang New Century Dock
You can fly or take a high-speed train from Tianjin to Yichang. Flights are fastest but infrequent and pricey during Golden Week. There's no direct high-speed train; only ordinary trains taking 20+ hours. The most convenient and well-connected option is to transfer in Wuhan: Tianjin to Wuhan is easy, and there are plenty of high-speed trains from Wuhan to Yichang (the best route I found after consulting travel agencies and Ctrip). Train schedules may have changed, so check 12306 or Ctrip — Ctrip even suggests transfer options, quite smart. I actually prefer high-speed trains during holidays because fares don't go up — but tickets are hard to get. Use 12306's waitlist or Ctrip's ticket-grabbing service. Though nerve-racking, the odds are high, so keep calm. You can even book a backup ticket first and then grab a reschedule. I only got mine one or two days before departure — thank goodness for nerves of steel, haha.
Just to prove I passed through Wuhan
The layover was long, so I strolled around the station. Saw this beautiful tree but couldn't find its name. I asked a cleaning lady; she didn't know either, such a pity.
We arrived in Yichang just after 6 p.m. Not late at all. Earlier guides said taxis were easy, but that wasn't my experience. I have to gripe about Yichang's Didi drivers. I called three cars — they either refused to go or demanded exorbitant flat rates. In an unfamiliar city, with dusk falling, it was infuriating. Eventually a young man accepted. The journey was indeed very long and increasingly desolate. He explained that it was so far and he'd get no return fare, so veteran drivers avoided it. Still, if you take an order, you should honour it. I was grateful at first, but then he asked for extra money. After negotiating, I gave him 20 yuan extra. Considering the late hour and his difficulty, fine. But the whole Didi experience left a bad taste — the only time in all my years. The initial struggle to get a car made me feel utterly helpless. So my advice: if arriving in the evening, best to pre-arrange a pickup.
Boarding the cruise for the first time was so exciting, haha. The ship stayed docked overnight, setting off the next morning.
Golden 6 at night
After boarding, check in at the front desk. The cruise ticket was pre-paid; extra items included a fee to upgrade your deck floor — I remember it being 100 yuan per person per floor. You also had to choose and pay for optional excursions; those were compulsory to book. Here's the price list from back then.
Prices on board were high, allegedly including docking fees, guide fees, etc. You couldn't visit spots independently; you had to follow the ship's tours — no choice. We picked Three Gorges Tribe + Baidicheng + Small Little Three Gorges. I think all three were excellent and well worth it — I'll describe them later. Shibaozhai was dropped because too few passengers signed up.
Dinner that day wasn't included. The restaurant offered à la carte, but it was crazily expensive — over 100 yuan for a plate of Yu Xiang Rou Si (shredded pork in garlic sauce). The onboard supermarket wasn't cheap either. So unless you're flush, skip dinner on the ship that night.
There was also an evening orientation; worth a listen.
Orientation slides introducing Shibaozhai
Every night, the cruise posts the next day's programme, in both Chinese and English — very considerate.
Tired from the journey, Day 1 ends here. Get a good rest for tomorrow's wonderful tour.
Day 2: The fantastic and magnificent Xiling Gorge
Main sights: Three Gorges Tribe, Three Gorges Dam, Five-level Ship Lock passage
Breakfast was a buffet, good variety and flavour. Tables were assigned, so we'd dine with the same group throughout.
An online photo to give you an idea
After breakfast, the ship docked at Three Gorges Tribe — I cannot recommend this enough!!!!! Three Gorges Tribe is as picturesque as a painting; the description is not an exaggeration. The cruise grouped passengers in advance and you just followed your guide.
Three Gorges Tribe, nestled between mountains and water, is picture-perfect: traditional stilted houses dot the landscape, old-time sailing boats and black-awning boats are moored quietly in front of village homes, girls wash clothes with wooden clubs by the stream, and fishermen leisurely cast nets on the river. The customs and atmosphere that have persisted for millennia reflect the simple hospitality of the gorge people. (From Baidu Baike, but truly lives up to it)
Here are some unedited photos to give you a sense
This scenery is in fact the promotional image for Three Gorges Tribe
All shots taken with my phone, no beauty filters — standing there, it felt like walking through a painting.
A performance: throwing the embroidered ball, plus a baby-birth skit, adding lots of fun
Rumour has it that many performers on these boats are older folks made up to look young, because local young people have all left for work elsewhere, and the community isn't wealthy.
Back on board for lunch — buffet again. All meals on the cruise were buffets, so I won't mention them repeatedly.
In the afternoon, we went ashore to see the Three Gorges Dam, visiting Tanzi Ling (Jar Hill) and the 185 Viewing Platform (altitude 185 metres), offering a panoramic vantage point.
The ship lock channel and gates
Tanzi Ling is shaped like an upturned jar. The 185 Viewing Platform — 185 metres above sea level — was packed.
We were incredibly lucky: the guide said it was the first flood discharge from the dam in three years. Have a look. I took this from the bus — pity Ctrip doesn't support video uploads, so you can't feel the gushing power.
'Today is your birthday, my motherland'
In the evening, there was the Captain's Welcome Cocktail Party, very classy.
It was 1 October, and the captain led staff and passengers to celebrate our motherland's birthday.
The crew danced gracefully, and later invited passengers to join in
Dinner was the onboard buffet.
After dinner, we went back to rest because the most stunning, unforgettable, and paramount highlight was at around 10 p.m. — passing through the Five-level Ship Lock!!!!!!!!!!
The Three Gorges double-line five-level ship lock is second to none in scale, the world's second-largest lock. It's 6.4 km long, with the main lock section 1.6 km and approach channels 4.8 km. Normal water level in the reservoir is 175 m, while the lowest navigable downstream level is 62 m — a drop of 113 metres, equivalent to a 40-storey building. (Baidu)
Baidu photo to visualise it
'Large ships climb stairs, small ships take the lift.' That's the vivid analogy for how vessels get past the dam. The 'stairs' are the double-line five-level lock, the 'elevator' is the ship lift. How do ships climb this extraordinary staircase? Suppose a boat comes from downstream heading upstream. First, water in Lock 5 is lowered to match the downstream level; the lower gate opens, the boat enters. The lower gate closes, and water is pumped in, raising the boat. When the water matches Lock 4's level, the middle gate between Locks 5 and 4 opens, and the ship moves up one level like climbing a step. This repeats until it exits Lock 1 into the placid lake beyond. Going downstream is the reverse. Smaller vessels use the ship lift, a direct 'elevator' over the dam. (Baidu Baike)
If that sounds complicated, just remember 'big ships climb stairs, small ships take the lift' — very graphic. I recall my childhood geography textbook explaining the principle in detail, essentially the 'communicating vessels' concept, which makes it easy to grasp. The boat enters Lock 5, gates close, water fills, level rises, gates to Lock 4 open, boat moves up, and so on. But as the saying goes, 'What you learn from books is shallow after all'; witnessing it in person drives the process home and truly reveals the awe-inspiring greatness of the Three Gorges Project. Words really don't suffice. And since tourist ships no longer go through the lock, this exclusive experience is absolutely irreplaceable and unforgettable!!!
Waiting to enter the lock
Two boats ahead entering the next chamber
From the water marks you can see the ship started down below and has now risen to the top
After entering the next chamber, the gates shut, the water starts rising again, and so on.
Finally the last gate — the broad river lies right ahead
Emerging from the final gate, the scene turns into a tranquil lake — a vast river expanse with boats coming and going. From our balcony we could enjoy the calm water and beautiful night view.
The whole lock passage took over two hours. Without experiencing it yourself, it's hard to imagine the wonder and impact. It's incredible how such a mega-project could be built amid these towering mountains and mighty river; truly, the greatness of our motherland!
The second day ended on a thrilling note. Here's the Day 3 schedule:
Day 3: The poetic and picturesque Wu Gorge, the majestic Qutang Gorge
Main sights: Little Three Gorges, Small Little Three Gorges; Baidicheng, Kuimen
'The Goddess should be unharmed, but she would be astonished by the changes wrought.' The Goddess Peak in Wu Mountain, resembling a graceful maiden veiled in mist and wrapped in romantic legend, has left a brilliant mark in Chinese poetry culture. Unfortunately, we'd just passed by when we got to the deck, so we missed her grace. But a touch of regret is also beautiful — a reason to return.
'No other waters can ever compare to the sea; no other clouds but those of Wu Mountain linger in my memory.' From Yuan Zhen's line we know that Wu Gorge's clouds and rain are said to be the finest under heaven. Wu Gorge is known worldwide for its exquisite beauty — deep valleys, strange peaks, layer upon layer, clouds swirling, the river meandering intricately. Sailing through it feels like entering a gallery, full of lyrical charm.
During the cruise, we transferred to smaller boats like this to visit the Little Three Gorges.
Longmen, Bawu, Dicui — wondrous peaks and waters surpassing even the great Three Gorges. The Little Three Gorges on the Yangtze attract crowds with their lovely scenery. Running from Wushan County in the south to Dachang Ancient Town in the north, they are commonly called the Wushan Little Three Gorges, or Daning River Little Three Gorges, the highlight of the Daning River Scenic Area.
The Little Three Gorges consist of Longmen Gorge, Bawu Gorge and Dicui Gorge. The scenery is incredibly beautiful; photos simply can't capture the real thing.
The Small Little Three Gorges are on the Madu River, a tributary where Dicui Gorge lies, and include Changtan Gorge, Qinwang Gorge and Sancheng Gorge. They are the sister gorges of the Little Three Gorges, 15 km in total, and called 'small little' because they're even narrower. The Small Little Three Gorges were an extra-cost option; those who went transferred to the black-awning boats below, others rested on ship.
The boatman sang folk songs and let tourists put on his rain cape and bamboo hat for photos — very friendly. The guide explained that the rising water levels and scenic development had significantly impacted locals' lives. They used to collect medicinal herbs on the mountains, but now to prevent rockfalls, it's forbidden. Most tourism income goes to companies, so ordinary villagers don't earn much. This was partly a lead-up to encourage buying souvenirs: Small Little Three Gorges keychains, 20 or 30 yuan, I can't recall. Though supposedly voluntary, after the guide's emotional stories and the boatman's interactions, nearly everyone bought one. The keychains were quite nice, and we happily bought one to support the locals.
I even dug out the keychain to show
The guide also mentioned unsolved mysteries of hanging coffins in the Little and Small Little Three Gorges, but I honestly didn't see any, so no photos.
After enjoying the Little and Small Little Three Gorges, we returned to the cruise and continued on. We arrived at Kuimen.
This is the reverse side of the RMB note at Kuimen
Passing Kuimen, we reach Baidicheng.
'Leaving at dawn the White Emperor crowned with cloud, I've sailed a thousand miles through canyons in a day.' Li Bai's immortal line has made Baidicheng a household name. Located at Baidicun 1 Community, Baidi Town, Fengjie County, Chongqing, on the north bank of the Yangtze at the mouth of Qutang Gorge, Baidicheng commands Kuimen to the east and the county seat to the west, right at the western entrance to the Three Gorges. What impressed me most here was the view of Kuimen from Baidicheng.
Kuimen, at the foot of the mountains in Qutang Gorge, Fengjie County, was a crucial pass on the ancient route from the east into Shu, contested by strategists since the Qin and Han dynasties. Flanked by towering cliffs, it is the gateway where the Yangtze enters the gorges from the Sichuan Basin. With its turbulent, roaring waters, Kuimen is known as the most imposing pass under heaven. Most famously, it's the backdrop of the current 10 yuan note, underscoring its status.
The stunning Kuimen, slightly different from the banknote — obviously the angle differs. The banknote looks like an aerial shot, making the mountains and river even more magnificent!
Kuimen in misty rain has a unique charm
After Baidicheng, the cruise exits the Three Gorges. The river widens, Chongqing grows closer, and bridges become more numerous.
Day 4: Mid-Autumn Festival mooncake DIY activity; Fengdu Ghost City; visit the bridge of the 10,000-ton luxury cruise; 'Enchanted Three Gorges' show
The last day on board was relaxed, with only one included shore visit — Fengdu Ghost City.
In the morning, there was a mooncake-making DIY activity, perfect for kids. It was free, though the cruise certainly knows how to make money from children. At the first night's welcome party there was a lucky draw — 100 yuan per try — and many kids joined in; just that one event must have raked in a lot.
Then we visited Fengdu Ghost City as scheduled.
Fengdu Ghost City is a historical and cultural town dating back to the Han dynasty, popularly known as the 'Ghost Kingdom Capital' or 'Underworld Court,' believed to be the resting place of souls. It's not only a legendary ghost town but also a treasury of folk culture blending Confucianism, Daoism and Buddhism, one of the most notable cultural sites on the Yangtze Gold Tourist Line. The city is famous for its underworld-inspired buildings and statues, like the giant King Yanluo head on the hilltop. Scenes include familiar names: Naihe Bridge, the Yellow Springs Road, the Gates of Hell. It's not scary at all, not like a haunted house; in fact, the guide was quite humorous. At the 'Yellow Springs Road,' for instance, the guide joked: 'Everybody, don't answer your phone now, or someone might ask, “Where are you?” and you'd say, “I'm on the Yellow Springs Road.”' Haha. The site is quite positive, actually, imparting life lessons: do good in life and you'll rest in peace after death; if you commit evil, you'll be condemned to the eighteen levels of hell and endure endless torment. I remember a game from childhood called *Fengshen Bang* (Investiture of the Gods), where one level was the eighteen hells, each level housing sinners subjected to specific tortures — wasting food, gossiping, etc., each sent to a particular hell. The site has similar descriptions and displays. The overall message is to live virtuously, which I find very correct.
Because it's a ghost city, I didn't take many photos. Here's the emblem — a stylised combination of the four characters 'Fengdu Ghost City,' can you see?
In the afternoon, we toured the bridge of the 10,000-ton cruise ship. If you booked Three Gorges Tribe + Baidicheng, this visit was complimentary; otherwise, 100 yuan per person.
I may not understand all the equipment, but being able to command such a huge vessel is truly impressive!
There was also a movie — *The Great Wall*.
Originally, an afternoon stop at Shibaozhai was planned, but it was optional and too few passengers signed up, so it was cancelled. Yes, that can happen — but it saved time and we kept sailing.
That evening was the farewell banquet, a sit-down meal. Having shared a table for days, we could bond a bit. The crew also asked for feedback and held a prize draw.
After dinner was settlement time. Onboard photographers had been taking candid shots all trip; you could buy prints for 30 yuan each. We picked a few as keepsakes.
The night featured the 'Enchanted Three Gorges — Host and Guest Gala,' which even invited foreign tourists to perform. The show was great. Supposedly the performers were all ship staff — chefs, waiters, crew — so it seems you need some talent to work here, haha.
A film, *Allied*, played later.
Here was the Day 5 schedule:
Day 5: Chongqing Chaotianmen Dock, Zhazidong — Bai Mansion — Ciqikou — Jiefangbei
Morning at last: Chongqing! Checked out and disembarked. On leaving, some porters practically grabbed your luggage, because there were steps ahead. At first I thought it was a free cruise service, but then I realised they expected payment. These strong men were very pushy, almost snatching bags. So if you need help, fine; if not, be very clear. Just a heads-up.
Docking at Chaotianmen
Chaotianmen is at the confluence of the Jialing and Yangtze rivers in Yuzhong District, the hub of the 'Two Rivers,' and the departure point for night cruises. The merging of the two waters is worth a photo stop.
Mountain city Chongqing is called the 'City of Bridges' — and for good reason.
We took a Didi to our hotel, around 10 yuan and very close. We stayed at Ren Lai Ren Wang Hotel Apartment near Jiefangbei, clean and simple with a friendly host. It's in the Segaier Building, which houses many such serviced apartments. Highly recommended because the location is unbeatable: walking distance to Jiefangbei, the Yangtze River Cableway, Hongyadong, and the metro station. Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street is Chongqing's most famous commercial hub, making shopping and dining incredibly convenient.
After resting, we took the metro to Bai Mansion.
In primary school, I read *Red Rock* very attentively, moved to tears by the revolutionary martyrs, and wrote a thick book report — it still affects me deeply. So visiting Zhazidong and Bai Mansion was a must for me in Chongqing. My parents also came; their generation is very familiar with these names. So we made it our first stop.
Witness the 'National Day Golden Week' crowds
Bai Mansion — don't be fooled by the refined name, this was truly hell on earth
Look how thick and heavy those chains are
Zhazidong, where countless righteous revolutionaries were imprisoned, struggled, and sacrificed. In remembrance, in tribute!
Both sites are free, as they are now patriotic education bases. From Zhazidong, it's a walkable distance to Ciqikou. Just ask a police officer or use Baidu Maps.
A stone-paved path, a thousand-year-old Ciqikou. Ciqikou Ancient Town is rich in Ba-Yu, religious, Shaci, Red Rock, and folk culture, a microcosm and symbol of old Chongqing, hailed as 'Little Chongqing.'
Doesn't it ooze artsy vibes? Yet still jam-packed with people.
Back at Jiefangbei in the evening, Chongqing's night view is stunning!
My shooting skills are too limited, I'm ashamed I couldn't capture the nightscape properly.
In Chongqing, you must try a bowl of authentic Chongqing Xiaomian (noodles). Honestly, this neat little shop didn't taste as good as the street stalls, haha.
Day 6: Chongqing Three Gorges Museum — Chongqing Great Hall of the People — Hongyadong — Two Rivers Night Cruise
Today we originally planned a day trip to Tiankeng Difeng (Heavenly Pit and Earthly Seam) and Tiansheng Sanqiao (the Three Natural Bridges), but the previous day's crowds frightened us, so we hesitated. Then the weather turned drizzly — heaven made the decision for us. We changed plans: to the Three Gorges Museum.
The Chongqing China Three Gorges Museum, aka Chongqing Museum, is a first-class national museum jointly built by central and local government. The 360-degree surround-screen film *The Great Three Gorges* is most recommended. It was absolutely breathtaking, making you feel like you're on a plane one moment and then sailing through stunning landscapes the next. I've watched surround films before, but this one left me speechless — you simply must experience it yourself. Highly recommended!!!
At the museum, I discovered something really interesting: the phrase 'Depart at dawn from Baidi, arrive at Jiangling by dusk' actually comes from Li Daoyuan's *Commentary on the Water Classic*, dating to the Northern Wei Dynasty! Li Bai's line 'Leaving at dawn the White Emperor crowned with cloud, I've sailed a thousand miles through canyons in a day' was inspired by that earlier passage.
Opposite the museum stands the Chongqing People's Great Hall, modelled after the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests in the Temple of Heaven, and one of Chongqing's landmark buildings. The hall itself is average for sightseeing; if you're short on time, you can skip it.
It really does look like the Temple of Heaven
After these two stops, evening approached, and the main event arrived — Hongyadong and Two Rivers Night Cruise, five stars!!!!!
(Chongqing's metro is very convenient, and different lines are painted different colours, quite cute.)
Hongyadong has 11 storeys. Its main structures are stilted houses, or Diaojiaolou, built along the mountain slope and riverside — unique Ba-Yu traditional architecture.
By the time we reached Hongyadong, dusk was falling, so we queued — huge crowds. They say it's best to come at night. Even before the lights came on, entry was already restricted. Once inside, we strolled floor by floor. Soon the lights illuminated everything — absolutely enchanting!
Again, a pity that photos can't convey the real beauty. But you can go admire it yourself in Chongqing.
What's more magical: we entered from the road on the 11th floor and kept going downstairs, yet when we exited on the ground floor, we were still on a road! That's the biggest surprise mountain city Chongqing gives visitors!
From the ground level, strolling along the Yangtze was delightful. You can also walk onto the Yangtze River Bridge and look back for a full view of Hongyadong — truly dreamlike and stunning! The real scene is even more beautiful than online pictures.
Following Baidu Maps, we headed to Chaotianmen for the Two Rivers Night Cruise. Chongqing's terrain is a real workout; facing a long flight of steps, I gritted my teeth, summoned determination, climbed up in one go, only to lift my head and see — oh my, another long staircase! At the dock, again: crowds. One note: buy Two Rivers Night Cruise tickets online, cheaper than on-site. More queuing and waiting.
'No visit to Chongqing is complete without its nightscape.' Missing Chongqing's night view would be a huge regret. The 'Two Rivers Tour' cleverly combines Chongqing's landscape with its world-renowned night cityscape into an urban calling card, letting you enjoy tier upon tier of glittering lights from any vantage point. It's called 'Two Rivers' because Chaotianmen sits at the Yangtze-Jialing confluence. You board at Chaotianmen, sail a stretch on the Yangtze, then turn back, cruise the Jialing, and return to the dock. You can freely enjoy the view from the upper deck, eating snacks, with the breeze in your hair — absolutely delightful. I've taken similar night cruises elsewhere, but Chongqing's Two Rivers Night Cruise is a must-do; the nightscape is simply gorgeous.
Hongyadong as seen from the cruise boat
A kaleidoscope of colours, rippling reflections
The Yangtze River Cableway at night
After enjoying the lights, we returned to Jiefangbei. Chongqing's nightlife truly redefined my expectations. It was nearly 11 p.m., yet the streets were fully lit and buzzing with life. Hotpot restaurant hostesses were still inviting people in. I wondered how late they'd eat, but everyone seemed to be having a ball. Chongqing is truly a foodie's paradise, a magical place.
Day 7: Check off the Yangtze River Cableway, fly back to Tianjin
Our flight was at 1 p.m., so morning allowed time to ride the cableway. Expecting crowds, we got there over half an hour early. Good heavens, the queue already stretched to the street. We managed to line up before hordes of tour groups, yet we still waited a long time. A special experience — ride from one side, then take the metro back, haha, just for the sake of doing it. But here's a tip: if your aim is simply 'to experience the ride,' take the metro to the opposite station and board from that side, because the queue there is clearly much shorter. Only by actually doing it would you know.
We called a Didi to the airport, smooth and easy. Homeward bound!
The seven-day trip ended like that. Chongqing's mountainous terrain left a deep impression — you enter on what seems the ground floor, climb several levels, then exit onto what is still street level — too intriguing. The main part of this journey was the Three Gorges cruise, so time in Chongqing was a bit short. Many trendy spots and the Wulong Three Natural Bridges were left unseen, leaving some regret. But nothing is ever perfect; a tinge of regret is also beautiful, giving a perfect excuse to come again. Chongqing, I will return.
Through springs, autumns, winters and summers, to see thousands of mountains and rivers. The world is so vast, and I am on my way.
