Finally, You're Here~ Honeymoon Trip to Xi'an, Lijiang, Lugu Lake, Shangri-La, Chongqing, Chengdu
Once accustomed to a single backpack, a DSLR, and wandering alone through crowds,
Climbing the towering Mount Tai alone, strolling through the brightly lit Wuzhen alone, crossing the picturesque Mount Huangshan alone, lingering in the beautiful landscape of Zhangjiajie alone; and the legendary Huashan's single path, the 3D city of Chongqing, the bustling Bund in Shanghai, the historic Xi'an; the hustle of Beijing, the leisure of Chengdu, the cold of Harbin, the talent of Lijiang; the endless peaks of Lushan, the crystal-clear waters of Lugu Lake, the mischievous monkeys of Mount Emei, and the endless roads of Phoenix Ancient Town.
Traveling alone is free and unrestrained, but also lonely and silent.
Eventually, the solo journeys ended, and the honeymoon trip for two began.
I've been to most of these destinations before, so revisiting them helped avoid many unnecessary pitfalls. The timing was mid-to-late October, after the National Day holiday peak, so it was a low season with reasonable flight and accommodation costs. The detailed itinerary is as follows:
Day 1: Dalian - Xi'an (21:50-00:15), Days 1-3 stay at Ji Hotel (Xi'an Bell and Drum Tower Luomashi Branch)
Day 2: Xi'an sightseeing (Small Wild Goose Pagoda, Bell Tower and Drum Tower, Muslim Quarter, Shaanxi History Museum, Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, Grand Tang Dynasty Ever Bright City)
Day 3: Xi'an sightseeing (Shuyuanmen, Yongxing Fang, Xi'an City Wall)
Day 4: Xi'an - Lijiang (8:10-10:40), explore Dayan Ancient Town, Days 4-6 stay at Lijiang Lazy Bug Inn
Day 5: Lijiang, explore Dayan Ancient Town (Mu's Mansion)
Day 6: Lijiang - Jade Dragon Snow Mountain (booked a small group of 6 via Ctrip)
Day 7: Lijiang - Lugu Lake (chartered car), explore Likeng Peninsula, Days 7-9 stay at Lugu Lake Xinyue Yaji Lakeside Mountain Villa Resort Hotel
Day 8: Likeng Peninsula (unable to visit due to illness; originally planned to climb Gemu Goddess Mountain)
Day 9: Lugu Lake circle tour (chartered car)
Day 10: Lugu Lake - Lijiang (shared car), stay at Home Inn (Lijiang Ancient City Bus Terminal Branch)
Day 11: Lijiang - Shangri-La (bus), Napahai Yila Grassland, Dukezong Ancient Town, Days 11-12 stay at Crystal Orange Hotel Shangri-La
Day 12: Shangri-La, full day at Potatso National Park
Day 13: Shangri-La - Chengdu (Kuanzhai Alley), Days 13-14 stay at Grand King Town Hotel Chengdu
Day 14: Chengdu sightseeing (Wuhou Shrine, Jinli Ancient Street, Chunxi Road)
Day 15: Chengdu - Chongqing (high-speed rail), Ciqikou Ancient Town, Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street, Hongya Cave, stay at Ji Hotel (Chongqing Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street Branch)
Day 16: Chongqing - Dalian (return home)
The main travel period was two weeks, a bit long, so by the time we reached Chengdu and Chongqing, we were quite exhausted.
Major expenses:
Flights: Dalian - Xi'an 395 RMB * 2
Xi'an - Lijiang 490 RMB * 2
Shangri-La - Chengdu 500 RMB * 2
Chongqing - Dalian 420 RMB * 2
Transport: Xi'an airport drop-off private car 111 RMB
Lijiang - Lugu Lake chartered car 400 RMB (there is also a bus, ticket should be 80 RMB per person, or shared car around 100, but now it's strictly regulated, better to find a regular taxi or ride-hailing car, otherwise you might get stuck halfway)
Lugu Lake circle tour chartered car 400 RMB
Lugu Lake - Lijiang shared car 100 RMB * 2
Lijiang - Shangri-La bus 71 RMB * 2
Chengdu - Chongqing high-speed rail 146 RMB * 2 people
Accommodation: Xi'an: Ji Hotel (Xi'an Bell and Drum Tower Luomashi Branch) 267 RMB * 3 nights
Lijiang: Lijiang Lazy Bug Inn 244 RMB * 3 nights
Lugu Lake: Lugu Lake Xinyue Yaji Lakeside Mountain Villa Resort Hotel 1271 RMB * 3 nights
Lijiang: Home Inn - Lijiang Ancient City Bus Terminal Branch 112 RMB * 1 night
Shangri-La: Crystal Orange Hotel Shangri-La 229 RMB * 2 nights
Chengdu: Grand King Town Hotel Chengdu 340 RMB * 2 nights
Chongqing: Ji Hotel (Chongqing Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street Branch) 267 RMB * 1 night
Attractions: Xi'an Bell and Drum Tower combo ticket 50 RMB * 2 people
Xi'an City Wall plus bicycle rental 100 RMB * 2 people
Lijiang Mu's Mansion: 40 RMB * 2 people
Lijiang Jade Dragon Snow Mountain Ctrip group ticket: 519 RMB * 2 people
Lugu Lake ticket 70 RMB * 2
Napahai Grassland ticket 30 RMB * 2 people
Potatso Forest Park ticket 100 RMB * 2 people (I bought this with cash, can't quite remember if this is the exact price)
Chengdu Wuhou Shrine 30 RMB * 2 people
Apart from meals and souvenirs, the main expenses were about this.
Xi'an, one of the four great ancient capitals of China. This is not my first time in Xi'an; the memory of my last Huashan trip is still vivid. Xi'an is a city that combines history and cuisine. Huashan is not far from Xi'an, with direct high-speed trains. It's a good choice to go to Huashan while you have the courage. This time we only visited Xi'an, because someone had a fear of heights and vetoed the Huashan plan.
On the first day, we flew from Dalian to Xi'an at night, 21:50-00:15, the night ticket price was quite affordable. The next morning we could start sightseeing directly. Xi'an airport has buses to the city, running until the last flight, so no worries about transportation to the city. The airport is quite far from the city, about an hour's drive.
This is my third time in Xi'an. For accommodation, I suggest staying inside the city wall for convenience, near the Bell and Drum Tower or close to the city wall. There are many hotels to choose from, and it's convenient to get anywhere.
If you visit Xi'an alone, three or four days can cover most places. Day 1, visit attractions inside the city wall, including Bell and Drum Tower, Muslim Quarter, Xi'an City Wall, Shuyuanmen, Yongxing Fang, etc. Day 2, go to the Terracotta Warriors, Huaqing Pool, and come back to visit Giant Wild Goose Pagoda and Grand Tang Dynasty Ever Bright City at night. Day 3, set aside a day for Huashan to experience the legendary sword fight.
We planned two full days in Xi'an. We arrived the first night and flew to Lijiang on the morning of the fourth day. The two days were relaxed, just wandering around the ancient city. We didn't go to Huashan or the Terracotta Warriors. During the day, Xi'an is antique, and at night, the lights highlight its Chinese flavor. We spent one evening on the Xi'an City Wall and one evening at the Grand Tang Dynasty Ever Bright City.
A friend was coming to join us for two days, planning to arrive at the Bell and Drum Tower by airport bus around noon. So in the morning, we went to the Small Wild Goose Pagoda.
The specific itinerary for today: morning at Small Wild Goose Pagoda, noon at Bell and Drum Tower, lunch at Muslim Quarter, afternoon at Shaanxi History Museum (free tickets can be booked on the WeChat official account, or queue for free tickets, but advance booking is recommended due to crowd), evening at Giant Wild Goose Pagoda and Grand Tang Dynasty Ever Bright City (which is near the pagoda square).
Small Wild Goose Pagoda is free, just use your ID to get a free ticket. It's outside the city wall, accessible by bus or bicycle. Dalian is a city where few people ride bikes, so we chose to cycle.
Although it was off-season, it was Saturday, so there were quite many people. It took half an hour to exchange tickets and queue to enter. There were also tour groups, as it's free. There was a foreign tour group. Late October in Xi'an is cool, but foreigners, especially Europeans, wearing shorts and down jackets is a common sight I've seen before.
Small Wild Goose Pagoda is inside Jianfu Temple. Jianfu Temple is like a park, quite large. You can spend 1-2 hours there. There's a museum inside, worth a look. The weather in Xi'an in September-October and March-April is very nice, not too hot, perfect for walking.
The museum doesn't have many exhibits. Since we had the Shaanxi History Museum in the afternoon, we just took a quick look. When the time was right, we headed back to the Bell and Drum Tower to meet our friend.
The combo ticket for Bell and Drum Tower is 50 RMB per person. Although there's not much to see inside, as landmarks of Xi'an's center, they are worth a visit. First the Bell Tower, then the Drum Tower. Below the Drum Tower is the Muslim Quarter.
After the Bell and Drum Tower, it's a paradise for foodies. Muslim Quarter, as Xi'an's most famous commercial street, has no off-season, only peak season. Every time it's crowded. Xi'an specialties like cold noodles, biangbiang noodles, roujiamo, lamb paomo, etc., let foodies enjoy.
Another Xi'an specialty drink is Bingfeng.
We didn't try lamb paomo. I tried it on my first visit, and as a Northeasterner, I couldn't accept the taste.
I'm not a die-hard foodie, so the photos are from my wife's phone. The crowd in Muslim Quarter forced me to put my camera away in my bag.
After eating and drinking in Muslim Quarter, we cycled to Shaanxi History Museum. It was quite far. As someone from Dalian, a city without bike lanes, cycling on busy roads competing with cars was a special experience.
Shaanxi History Museum is quite good, worth a visit. They say to understand a city, you must first visit its history museum. For historic Xi'an, the museum has rich exhibits. When going, be sure to enter through the south gate.
Since we couldn't go to the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor, we looked at the Terracotta Warriors here. Without a guide, most people who don't know much about artifacts can't appreciate their historical value. It's worth hiring a guide at the Mausoleum, or you can eavesdrop. In the museum, there are also tour groups you can follow.
This is the legendary tiger tally used for mobilizing troops.
The reverse-flow teapot is a wonder of ancient Chinese ceramic art.
The pot defies the traditional method of pouring water from the top; instead, you turn it upside down, pour water from the bottom, then turn it right side up to pour. Hence the name "reverse-flow teapot."
There's a video in the museum explaining the principle clearly.
We were tired after visiting the Shaanxi History Museum, mainly from cycling. The Giant Wild Goose Pagoda is close to the museum, within walking distance. The musical fountain at the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda Square is said to be the largest in China. I saw it once before and it was impressive.
As night fell, the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda Square reached its peak.
For dinner, we ate at the food street in the north square. Xi'an is full of noodles.
Directly opposite the north square of the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda is the Grand Tang Dynasty Ever Bright City. It became popular online a while ago.
The statue of Xuanzang on the north square of the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda. Xuanzang, also known as Tripitaka Master, is commonly referred to as Tang Seng. To resolve differences among Buddhist sects, he traveled west alone for 50,000 miles during the first year of the Zhenguan era, enduring hardships to reach the center of Indian Buddhism at Nalanda Temple to obtain the true scriptures. This is the prototype of the main character in the novel Journey to the West.
Looking back from the Grand Tang Dynasty Ever Bright City, you see the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, beautifully illuminated by the surrounding lights.
The Grand Tang Dynasty Ever Bright City is very beautiful, with a strong Chinese flavor under the lights at night. There are many people. The street is long; walking and sightseeing takes about an hour.
There was a performance that went viral online, but the Unbreakable Egg Lady was not there this time.
After walking a distance, looking back, the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda was getting farther away.
At the end of the Grand Tang Dynasty Ever Bright City, there is a small stage. Just as we arrived, a band was playing. We rested and listened to music.
We were exhausted after all the walking. Walking back was impossible. With the huge crowd, getting a taxi was hopeless. Returning to the hotel became a problem. I strongly recommend thinking about how to get back when visiting the Grand Tang Dynasty Ever Bright City.
No taxis in sight, Didi had long queues. We checked Baidu Maps and decided to take a bus. The bus stop was far, requiring more walking.
On the way to the bus stop, we passed the Xi'an Tang City Wall Ruins Park, which has a Poetry Recitation Pavilion. The building style immediately caught our curiosity. It was like discovering a new world. No one was around, so we sneaked in. It's a maze-like circular building. When you speak inside, there's an echo, especially in the center. It's indeed a Poetry Recitation Pavilion, quite interesting, an unexpected discovery.
The walls of the Poetry Recitation Pavilion are carved with many poems. This is the center of the pavilion.
Fortunately, we caught the last bus. That ended the first day's itinerary. In Xi'an, I booked the Ji Hotel (Xi'an Bell and Drum Tower Luomashi Branch). The location is good, near the Bell Tower. From the airport bus stop at Bell Tower Hotel, it's a 2-3 minute walk. There's a food street downstairs, lively at night, but quiet after 11 PM. The hotel is newly opened with new facilities, large TV, smart toilet. Worth recommending.
Since we didn't plan to visit Huashan or the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor, today's schedule was relaxed. It rained a bit in the morning, and there was a marathon in Xi'an, causing many road closures, so most of the day was just wandering.
We went to Shuyuanmen in the morning, had snacks at Yongxing Fang at noon, visited the Xi'an Incident Memorial Hall in the afternoon, and finally the Xi'an City Wall.
Shuyuanmen is a street selling the Four Treasures of the Study, very cultural. It was rainy and early, so few people. The Forest of Steles is inside Shuyuanmen. Without a guide, you can't understand anything—just row upon row of inscriptions.
Yesterday we visited Muslim Quarter; today we went to Yongxing Fang. The food in Muslim Quarter is special because there's no pork, so it's quite different from other cities' food streets. Yongxing Fang is more like a normal food street, though it still has many Shaanxi specialties.
The wine-smashing bowls that went viral online still attract many visitors.
Yongxing Fang is near the east gate of Xi'an City Wall. At night, you can see the lively scene from the wall.
We wanted to stay on the city wall until night, but it was too early to go up. So we visited the Xi'an Incident Memorial Hall, not far from Yongxing Fang, within walking distance.
I've been to Xi'an three times, and each time I'm reluctant to leave the city wall. I love the feeling of strolling on it. From day to night.
The city wall is very long. On foot, it takes half a day to complete. There are bicycles for rent, single or tandem. Even cycling takes about an hour. The surface is paved with stone, so it's bumpy, and your bottom will ache. We rented bikes for a lap, then walked a bit.
The Xi'an City Wall has four main gates: East Gate (Changle Gate), South Gate (Yongning Gate), West Gate (Anding Gate), North Gate (Anyuan Gate). I think Yongning Gate is the best. The South Gate is also close to the Bell Tower, offering a view of the lit Bell Tower at night.
We rented single bikes, one little red, one little white.
As night fell, the lights on the city wall turned on.
Passing by Xi'an Railway Station from the city wall.
Passing by the east gate, we saw the bustling area below. We realized it was Yongxing Fang, which we visited at noon. Yongxing Fang is lively at night, so we decided to go down the east gate and visit it again, solving dinner.
The buildings on the city wall look great in photos after lighting up.
Yongxing Fang at night was still buzzing with voices.
The two-day Xi'an itinerary ended successfully. Qu Xiaopang said she doesn't like Xi'an because she doesn't understand the history, can't read.
As a historic ancient city with Chinese flavor, Xi'an makes me linger and forget to return. I've been three times. Actually, this trip was a transit. Dalian has no direct flights to Lijiang, but transferring in Xi'an was affordable and allowed us to play for two days. A good choice.
Lijiang, a place close to the sky. The clouds seem to float right above your head, within reach.
As a Northeasterner, Lijiang is quite far. This is my second time. Even after two visits, I still can't forget this place, just like the six times I've been to Wuzhen. There's a nostalgia that's hard to let go.
Most people fly directly to Kunming for Yunnan trips, as the provincial capital has more flights. Direct flights to Lijiang are rare. Dalian also has no direct flights. Flying to Kunming feels too far from Lijiang, so we transferred in Xi'an. Normally, flying to Kunming would go to Dali first, but Dali no longer has Erhai Lake. Without Erhai, Dali loses its soul. Over-tourism caused severe pollution, so Erhai had to be closed.
Lijiang's altitude is not high, but the temperature difference between day and night is large. The biggest feature of Lijiang this season is that people wear all kinds of clothes: down jackets, short sleeves, even down jacket upper and shorts lower (imitating Europeans?).
Lijiang has many places to visit, but I arranged a relaxed itinerary. I didn't want to be as tired as with a tour group, getting up early and returning late. We flew from Xi'an to Lijiang in the morning. Since we booked three nights at the inn, they provided airport pickup. Lijiang airport is quite far from Dayan Ancient Town. When booking a hotel, check if they offer airport pickup. I booked Lijiang Lazy Bug Inn on Ctrip. To be honest, it was different from what I imagined. I've been to Lijiang before and stayed at an inn. No comparison, no harm. The previous inn left a very good impression, so this one was somewhat disappointing. The main issue: I booked a local group to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain through the inn (I thought, staying here, let them earn some money, everyone happy), but the local group didn't book the big cable car tickets to reach 4680m. Although I know those tickets are tricky, if they weren't booked, I wouldn't go, but they wanted to charge me 20% cancellation fee. I couldn't understand that, and I lost faith in the inn's service. I canceled and rebooked a local group on Ctrip for the next day, which guaranteed a big cable car ticket, with a Mercedes business van pickup, 5-6 people per group. This group was quite satisfactory.
We arrived at Dayan Ancient Town around noon. We got up early for the early flight. After resting at the inn, we started exploring the ancient town. Dayan Ancient Town is the largest ancient town I've visited. In two visits, I spent about 3-4 days just wandering around, but I still feel many places remain unexplored.
Dayan Ancient Town centers on Sifang Street, extending outward. It's said there are over 4,000 inns in the ancient town, plus shops, bars, etc. Imagine how large it is. The inns are diverse; there must be one you like. But those with choice difficulty might struggle. Even with 4,000 inns, during peak season, they are hard to find, plus the crowded streets. So off-season is better. Even now in this season, the ancient town still has many people.
Everywhere in the ancient town, you see people wearing shawls, and they are sold everywhere. It seems a must-buy item in Lijiang. Shawl shops usually have a weaving machine, and sometimes a young lady working on it.
At night, Dayan Ancient Town is beautiful. People flow endlessly, bustling and lively. A dazzling variety of shops. Though most goods might be from Yiwu Small Commodity Market, there are still some Lijiang specialty shops waiting to be discovered.
In the off-season, Lijiang Ancient Town is not so noisy. A turn might take you to a path that belongs only to you. No need to look at navigation, no need to calculate distance. Just go wherever you want, aimlessly wandering in the ancient town at night. It's a real enjoyment.
Lijiang receives plenty of rain. Always carry an umbrella, as it might drizzle anytime.
Yak and black goat ribs. This is a specialty of Yunnan. Close to Tibetan areas, yak meat is abundant. It looked tempting. At first, I thought it was 48 RMB per stick, but then realized it was 48 RMB per jin. Qu Xiaopang couldn't resist and bought a small box for over 100 yuan. Not cheap, but tasty, though the meat was a bit tough.
The big waterwheel is a landmark. When you reach it, you're at the edge of the ancient town. There's a medium-sized square, crowded, with locals dancing square dance.
Sifang Street is the center of the ancient town. It's a square from which many small roads lead to various parts.
Once at Sifang Street, you're not far from the bar street.
The glittering bar street, with various bar styles, all beckoning. Happy, loud, tender songs mix together. If you like drinking and lively places, this is a good choice. Just don't expect a romantic encounter; you might meet a bar girl.
The ancient town is really big. Even with a good sense of direction, I sometimes got lost in the sea of people. If you want to go somewhere specific, Baidu Maps is needed. For those with a poor sense of direction, finding their inn might be a big problem.
This is the courtyard of the inn we stayed at in Lijiang Ancient Town. Every inn in the ancient town has one thing: a tea table.
When you stay at an inn in Lijiang Ancient Town, you must sit down and have a few cups of tea made by the staff, listen to their stories about Lijiang. Sometimes you meet other travelers, all tired from walking, and sit together for tea, sharing what you've seen and heard. It's quite nice.
Most inns in Lijiang Ancient Town are wooden structures. Under the lights at night, they have a classic charm, but the soundproofing might not be great.
The second day in Lijiang was originally for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, but since the big cable car wasn't booked, we postponed it to the next day.
Actually, there are many places to go in Lijiang, but we decided not to go anywhere and just wandered slowly in the ancient town for the day.
Dayan Ancient Town, commonly known as Lijiang Ancient Town, is the largest. Not far away is Shuhe Ancient Town, which is smaller and less crowded, probably more leisurely.
You can also watch "Lijiang Eternal Love" in Lijiang. I wanted to see it because I had seen the performance in Songcheng, Hangzhou, which is a must-see in life. The live show was great.
The main ethnic group in Lijiang is the Naxi. Naxi women do the work. Naxi people consider plumpness as beauty. They call beautiful and capable women "Pangjinmei." On the way to Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, the driver uncle told us that Naxi men don't work and are very lazy. For him to come out and work is considered especially diligent.
Mu's Mansion was the residence of the Mu clan, rulers of the Yunnan region, like local emperors. It went through several dynasties and still prospered. As the saying goes, "Heaven is high and the emperor is far away." This was the frontier, so the emperor's control was limited.
The architectural style of Mu's Mansion is almost like a royal palace, magnificent. The ticket is 30 RMB, including a guided tour. After buying the ticket, wait a bit until about ten people gather, then a guide leads the tour. Following the guide gives you a better understanding of how splendid the mansion was. After the tour, you can explore on your own. But since there's a guide, it's better to listen; otherwise, you won't understand anything.
Behind Mu's Mansion is Lion Hill, the highest point in the ancient town. Climbing it offers a panoramic view of the entire ancient town. From the top of Mu's Mansion, you can also see the whole town. Mu's Mansion is built on the hillside, requiring climbing. Qu Xiaopang's psychological effect started acting up, feeling altitude sickness, so we didn't go to Lion Hill. After visiting Mu's Mansion, we went out to continue wandering the ancient town.
Lion Hill scenic area closes at night, so don't plan to take night photos from the hill.
We had lunch at a place whose name I forgot. It's not far from Mu's Mansion, at the end of Zhongyi Lane. It was something like a music restaurant. The taste and price were good, so we ate there twice. They have online group-buy packages with generous portions. The yak hotpot set was good.
During lunch, an old Naxi grandmother came selling pomegranates, carrying a small bamboo basket. At her age, carrying such heavy pomegranates to sell is not easy. We bought two for about 13 yuan. The grandmother was Naxi; we had difficulty communicating. The restaurant waiter helped translate. Actually, fruits in Lijiang are cheap. Pomegranates are abundant and inexpensive.
Actually, coming to Lijiang is about enjoying this leisurely life. Don't rush to major attractions. Set aside a whole day to slowly stroll in the ancient town. It's a real enjoyment.
The ancient town is huge. Just wander slowly. You might spend the whole day on different streets. If you see a shop you like, go in. Although the goods are commercialized, just browsing and relaxing is a good choice. There will always be one or two small items that catch your eye.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is Lijiang's cash cow. Many tourists come for its fame. Actually, there are many snowy mountains to climb towards Tibetan areas in Shangri-La, but Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is the most famous. The scenic area is huge. It's recommended to join a local group. The most important point is whether you can book a ticket for the big cable car to 4680m. Booking it yourself is difficult; most tickets are reserved by tour groups. Grabbing a big cable car ticket early in the morning is tough. I booked a 5-6 person group on Ctrip for over 500 RMB per person, with Mercedes business van pickup, one meal included (self-service hotpot), scenic area ticket, big cable car ticket, and mountaineering gear (down jacket, oxygen tank). The key is that if you book, you're guaranteed a big cable car ticket, unless it's closed due to weather.
Weather is crucial for Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The mountain should have snow, preferably from a few days earlier, so the top is covered in thick snow. Clear weather is needed to appreciate its beauty. We happened to go after a snowfall, but the snow from yesterday hadn't been cleared yet. So we took the big cable car directly to 4506m. Inside the scenic area, you first take a bus to the cable car station, which is already around 3700m. Then the cable car takes you to 4506m, and from there you climb to 4680m.
At 4506m, people with severe altitude sickness start feeling symptoms. Carrying an oxygen tank is important; at such altitude, oxygen is scarce. Move slowly and talk less. Start using oxygen early; waiting until symptoms appear is too late.
There was no fog on the mountain at first, but a wind blew some mist from the hillside. At 4500m, it's cold, but with strong sunshine, it didn't feel cold. Later, we took off our down jackets.
After getting off the cable car, you're at 4506m. Follow the wooden boardwalk upward to reach 4680m. Unfortunately, the snow on the boardwalk hadn't been cleared completely, so we could only go halfway before the path was blocked. It was a pity not to reach 4680m this time. Since it snowed yesterday, there was still thick snow. The weather was clear, with a bit of mist. Last time, although I reached 4680m, it was overcast and I couldn't see anything.
Since we couldn't go up to 4680m, we stayed a while and then took the cable car down. Afterward, we had the self-service hotpot and went to the next spot - Blue Moon Valley, which Qu Xiaopang especially liked.
The water in Blue Moon Valley, from the upstream, changes from green to blue. That turquoise blue water looks like a watercolor painting.
Walk downstream along the water's edge. Blue Moon Valley takes about an hour to explore. There are electric carts at several stops, but I recommend not taking them. The valley isn't that long. Walking along the water slowly is fine. Taking the cart might miss some parts of the scenic area.
Upstream of Blue Moon Valley is Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. The scenery is beautiful.
The upstream water is shallow and green. As it gets deeper downstream, the water turns turquoise.
Blue Moon Valley is so beautiful that any photo can be a screensaver.
It seems that Blue Moon Valley in Lijiang is a popular spot for wedding photos, just like Dalian's beach or Hangzhou's West Lake.
This place is indeed suitable for wedding photos. No matter how you shoot, the scenery is good. We encountered at least ten couples taking wedding photos along the way.
It felt close to the sky, as if clouds were floating overhead, within reach.
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain scenic area is worth visiting. The most important thing is the weather; if it's bad, the big cable car closes.
There is also an outdoor stage show called "Impression Lijiang," but I missed it on both visits. To watch it, you'd need more time, so I missed it each time. Few tour groups include this show.
Climbing to 4680m and strolling around Blue Moon Valley is quite nice. The timing was just right, not too early or late. Depart from the ancient town around 8am, return by 4-5pm.
In the evening, we returned to the same music restaurant from yesterday. We ordered a four-person set meal. The staff looked confused when we, a couple, ordered a four-person set. Ha-ha. Maybe we thought we could eat that much after the tiring day at Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, especially Qu Xiaopang.
We went upstairs. Because it was off-season, the restaurant wasn't very crowded. The second floor was empty, just us. We found a great spot. Felt good.
Since we ordered a four-person set, they brought us this big bowl of rice. It was an unforgettable serving. We stared at each other. Finally, we asked the waiter to change it to a small bowl to avoid waste. Even four people couldn't finish that big bowl.
We also ordered a small bottle of fruit wine. It tasted good, though I'm not a heavy drinker.
A bit of wine, relaxing~
The three days in Lijiang basically ended here. Lijiang is a memorable place, making you want to come back. Qu Xiaopang said she wants to come again.
I had been to Lugu Lake before, but time was tight, so I've been longing to return.
Lugu Lake is not far from Lijiang in distance, but it's all winding mountain roads, about 4 hours of driving. However, the scenery along the way is beautiful. You can take a bus or charter a car. The bus goes to Daluoshui Village. If you stay at Daluoshui, you get off directly at the inn. If staying at Likeng Peninsula, you need another taxi.
Both times I've stayed at Likeng Peninsula. It's the iconic representation of Lugu Lake, with beautiful scenery. I recommend staying at Likeng. There are dozens of inns around Likeng Peninsula, and 5-6 on the peninsula itself. The inns on the peninsula are hard to book, especially during peak season, both in price and availability. Last time I stayed at Bandao Yangguang on the peninsula, considered the best inn there, with good facilities, location, and service. Every room has a balcony with lake view, standard lake-view room, but expensive.
This time I didn't choose Bandao Yangguang. Instead, I chose a newly opened one called Xinyue Yaji Lakeside Mountain Villa Resort, mainly because its 270-degree view room attracted me. I spent a lot to stay for three nights.
Finally stepped onto the long-awaited Lugu Lake.
I chartered a car to Lugu Lake, a ride-hailing car, 400 RMB. If sharing, it's 100 per person. After some hesitation, I chose to charter. The advantage is that you can stop anytime to take photos of the scenery. But the road was twisty, with many turns, making Qu Xiaopang carsick. If you're prone to carsickness, it's better to take the bus, as it's more stable.
We stopped a few times along the way. This is the Jinsha River.
There are several rest stops and viewpoints. Qu Xiaopang was too carsick; we bought motion sickness patches at a rest stop.
The Lugu Lake ticket is now 70 RMB, as it was downgraded to a 4A scenic area.
Lugu Lake scenic area is huge. Although it's a scenic area, many local residents live inside. There are many villages, mostly commercialized.
The local people here are Mosuo. Why "Mosuo people" not "Mosuo ethnic group"? Because the 56 ethnic groups in China do not include Mosuo. They are a branch of the Naxi, so they are called Mosuo people.
Mosuo are also known as the "walking marriage" tribe. This is the most interesting aspect. Nowadays, most Mosuo no longer practice walking marriage. In walking marriage, if a man meets his beloved woman on the Walking Marriage Bridge during the day, he can visit her boudoir at night after her family falls asleep, with her consent. Mosuo don't have marriage as such; only walking marriage. And children born to women are not raised by the biological father but by her brothers. Men don't raise their own children but their nieces and nephews. This walking marriage is really...
Lugu Lake is located on the border of Yunnan and Sichuan provinces. Actually, two-thirds of the lake belongs to Sichuan. The scenic area has two entrances, one in Yunnan and one in Sichuan. We came from Yunnan, so we bought tickets at the Yunnan entrance. Upon entering, there is a viewpoint high up, overlooking the whole lake. Due to weather, fog and clouds, we didn't see the beautiful reflection of blue sky and white clouds on the lake. The thick cloud layer made the lake look gloomy.
View of Daluoshui Village from the viewpoint.
Small path from Likeng Village to Likeng Peninsula.
Lugu Lake's pig trough boats look shabby but are photogenic. The photos didn't turn out great because of the weather.
These pig trough boats are rowed manually, slowly gliding on the lake. Very leisurely, but don't spend too long on the water as it gets tiring. Many places on the lake offer pig trough boats. If you've watched "Dear Inn," you can take a pig trough boat to see it. No need to take them elsewhere.
We checked into Xinyue Yaji Lakeside Mountain Villa Resort. The hotel's location is good, with a large floor-to-ceiling window with a nice view. It's newly opened with new facilities: smart toilet, electric curtains, projector. A modern, simple inn.
This is definitely a staged photo.
Behind Likeng Peninsula is a viewpoint. The classic photo of Likeng Peninsula on Lugu Lake is taken from here. I'll include one from last time when the weather was good.
After a 4-hour drive, we rested at the inn. In the evening, we went for a walk. There's a small path below the viewpoint, hard to find, leading directly to Likeng Peninsula. Lugu Lake is large, and the lights are dim at night, not like the glittering nights of Wuzhen or Phoenix Ancient Town.
After the walk, we returned to the inn. The inn had a small electric scooter to take guests to nearby places.
A tiring day. Took a bath.
Due to Qu Xiaopang's discomfort, we canceled the day 8 itinerary and rested in the hotel. Originally, I had nothing specific planned; I wanted to go to Gemu Goddess Mountain. But Likeng Peninsula is too remote. The pharmacy didn't open all day. We couldn't find any medicine for stomach pain. And the inn's service needs improvement. In a place where pharmacy opening times are unstable, a qualified inn should have some common medicines on hand.
After resting for a full day, Qu Xiaopang felt a bit better. Today we could finally go out.
The plan was to circle the lake. I initially wanted to cycle around the lake, but after researching, considering time, distance, physical strength, cycling was still challenging. Also, Lugu Lake now enforces strict regulations; there are few places to rent bikes because the road around the lake is unsafe—narrow roads, many cars, prone to accidents. Electric bikes are no longer allowed. So we chartered a car for the circle tour.
Chartering cost 400 RMB per day. Sharing, if available, is 100 per person.
The circle around Lugu Lake is about 70 km, so cycling requires significant stamina.
During our three days, the weather was not great, mostly cloudy, with little sunshine. It didn't have that feeling of blue sky reflecting on the water from my previous visit. Because of the cloudy weather, the lake looked dim.
We started from Likeng Peninsula, going counterclockwise.
Lugu Lake has two Lover's Beaches: one in Yunnan, one in Sichuan. We first reached the Yunnan one. I think the Yunnan Lover's Beach has better scenery, with a larger sandy area, allowing closer contact with the clear water.
Soon we reached Daluoshui Village. Likeng Peninsula is not far from Daluoshui. Last time, I walked from Likeng to Daluoshui and then took a bus back to Lijiang. It took about half a day, around 10 km. Daluoshui has many inns, many built along the lake. I think the scenery is slightly inferior to Likeng Peninsula.
We encountered a group of little black ducks on Lugu Lake. Not sure what species.
Around noon, we reached the place where you can row a boat to the Dear Inn. The boat ride costs 180 RMB per person, I think. I can't remember exactly.
The boat ride is quite long, all manual rowing, slow. In the middle of the lake, you can taste the water of Lugu Lake. It's drinkable. I tried a bit; it had a slightly sweet taste.
The sturdy uncle rowing the boat. They are all locals, a bit hard to understand. The round trip took over an hour; it seemed tiring, but the uncle appeared unaffected.
Boat in the middle of the lake.
The lake center is deep. Even though the water is clear, you can't see the bottom. You could faintly see aquatic plants swaying.
High mountains and flowing water, blue sky and white clouds. The scenery was picturesque.
Because of inconvenient transportation, Lugu Lake has relatively few visitors. It still retains much natural beauty, like a paradise. However, with the construction of airports and roads, more and more people are coming. Eventually, Lugu Lake might follow the fate of Erhai Lake. So come to Lugu Lake while it still has clear water.
Getting closer to the Dear Inn, I recalled scenes from the variety show.
The capable boss Wang Ke, the hardworking hostess Liu Tao (like a little spinning top), the always-arguing Kan Qingzi and Ji Lingchen (unfortunately now broken up), and Chen Xiang who could only make hand-grabbed cakes. The first season of Dear Inn is quite memorable. When I first came to Lugu Lake, the first season was airing. I didn't know about the show at the time; I watched it after returning home. Since I didn't fully explore last time, and after watching the show, I've always wanted to come again.
I love the clear water of Lugu Lake, so clear you can see the bottom.
The Dear Inn has now become a tourist attraction. I checked online; it's very hard to book.
I remember Yi Yangqianxi silently painting here without saying a word.
This is a dividing line between Yunnan and Sichuan. Past this point, you enter the Sichuan part of Lugu Lake. After crossing this line, the architectural style gradually changed.
Grass Sea. This is why Lugu Lake's water is clear—the Grass Sea purifies the water, maintaining its clarity.
This is the famous Walking Marriage Bridge. As a crucial place for the walking marriage tradition, where men and women meet. They say you shouldn't backtrack on the bridge, so the driver went around and waited on the other side.
A bronze man charging for photos on the Walking Marriage Bridge.
The sky was gloomy, reflecting on the water, making the lake look murky.
Goddess Bay is said to be the most beautiful place in Lugu Lake, a must-visit. The winding road above the bay had partially collapsed, making it hard to drive down, so fewer people go.
The sky was too gloomy, so we didn't enjoy the beauty of Goddess Bay.
The Good People's Eatery (Hao Ren Xiao Chi) was mentioned in Dear Inn when Wang Ke and Chen Xiang ate there. It was 30 RMB for all-you-can-eat then; now it's more expensive. We gave it a try.
Chicken stew with matsutake mushrooms. Matsutake is expensive; could it be real matsutake? Anyway, it's all-you-can-eat.
The taste was okay. Maybe we were hungry from playing. Even the sugar-tossed tomatoes tasted good.
When we saw Likeng Peninsula again, it meant the circle tour was almost over.
We set out at 8:30 am and returned around 3:00 pm. The circle tour took about 6-7 hours. Apart from the weather diminishing Lugu Lake's beauty, everything else was good.
A small boat on Lugu Lake.
This is a photo from my previous solo trip. The sun was shining, blue sky and white clouds reflected on the lake, giving a refreshing feeling.
The three-day Lugu Lake trip came to an end. Many people still haven't heard of Lugu Lake. The broadcast of Dear Inn significantly increased visitor numbers and raised its popularity. However, with more tourists, the natural scenery may gradually erode, and commercialization will become more serious. So, while Lugu Lake still retains some natural beauty, it's a good choice to visit. Unfortunately, due to various reasons, Qu Xiaopang's impression of Lugu Lake was not good.
Shangri-La, meaning "sun and moon in the heart" in Diqing Tibetan. It's a paradise many yearn for, said to be the closest place to heaven.
The name "Shangri-La" was only changed at the end of 2001. Before that, it was called Zhongdian County. On December 17, 2001, with the approval of the State Council, Zhongdian County was officially renamed Shangri-La County.
Actually, the distance from Lugu Lake to Shangri-La is not far, but there is no direct road. You have to go back to Lijiang and then from Lijiang to Shangri-La, forming a triangle. Both Lugu Lake and Shangri-La now have airports; a direct route would be convenient.
There are many buses from Lijiang to Shangri-La, some direct, some going to Tiger Leaping Gorge. Tiger Leaping Gorge is between Lijiang and Shangri-La, close to Lijiang. If time permits, it's good to visit. We were a bit tired and, after much deliberation, decided to go directly to Shangri-La.
On the tenth day, we rested in Lugu Lake for the morning, then shared a car back to Lijiang around noon. We booked a Home Inn near Lijiang Bus Terminal for convenience in catching a bus early the next day. That evening, we went to the ancient town again. The next morning, we took a bus from Lijiang to Shangri-La. Two days were mostly spent on the bus.
The bus from Lijiang to Shangri-La took about 4 hours. We arrived in Shangri-La around noon. We stayed at Crystal Orange Hotel, not far from the ancient town, good location. Since Shangri-La's ancient town is small, we didn't insist on staying inside it. It's quite different from Lijiang Ancient Town.
Upon arriving in Shangri-La, the Tibetan influence was obvious. The architectural style was very different. Shangri-La's buildings looked grand.
This was my first time in Shangri-La, and also my first time so close to Tibetan areas. It truly felt like purifying the soul.
Originally, we planned to visit Songzanlin Monastery first. We took a Didi, and the female driver gave us some suggestions. We changed plans and first went to Napahai Yila Grassland, since Qu Xiaopang didn't like temples.
At Yila Grassland, we paid 30 RMB each for tickets. They also offered horse riding. I felt a bit cheated. We didn't ride horses; we just bought tickets and slowly wandered. I thought Napahai is so large; not every part should be fenced and charged.
But when we walked in and saw this beautiful scenery, it felt worth it.
Due to the season, it wasn't warm, and the grassland wasn't very green. Scattered cattle and horses roamed, adding fertilizer. But it couldn't stop the picturesque scenery.
From the location, through Yila Grassland, that should be Shika Snow Mountain. Shika is a snowy mountain near Shangri-La that you can climb.
Sky, snow mountain, lake, grassland. This is a view you'll never see in a city. Standing quietly on the grassland, gazing into the distance, is refreshing.
The hair braids were done last night when we wandered in Lijiang Ancient Town. We didn't braid during the three days in Lijiang, but she insisted it was suitable in Shangri-La.
Let us be lovers, live freely and happily
Ride horses galloping, sharing the worldly prosperity
Sing with wine, expressing inner joy
Live life to the fullest, grasping youth passionately
Seeing this photo, that song came to mind.
Picture in mind~~~ Ziwei!!! Ziwei!!! A pair of big nostrils...
Although we didn't ride horses, many people wanted to experience galloping.
When researching Shangri-La, I never considered Yila Grassland as a main destination, thinking a grassland is just a grassland. Also, I never figured out how to get there. It was a lucky surprise. Plus, today's weather was clear, and the scenery was worth the visit.
We spent about 1-2 hours at Yila Grassland. The driver aunt was still waiting at the entrance and drove us back to the hotel. On the way, she recommended a visit to a Tibetan family. I had thought about it before, and we had booked it, but later canceled for various reasons. Usually, tour groups that come to Shangri-La will visit a Tibetan family, a special activity. Maybe next time.
After a short rest, we walked to Dukezong Ancient Town. The style of Dukezong is grand, the streets spacious. It felt "nouveau riche." Very different from Lijiang's Dayan Ancient Town.
The ancient town is small, and due to the off-season, there were few visitors. Like Lugu Lake, it's remote, and most tourists come in tour groups, not many independent travelers. Plus, it's at high altitude; people with altitude sickness don't adapt easily.
Speaking of altitude sickness, our room at Crystal Orange Hotel was on the sixth floor. When we returned, the elevator was under maintenance, so we had to climb six floors. Qu Xiaopang immediately took out the leftover oxygen tank from Jade Dragon Snow Mountain and lay on the bed inhaling... a pitiful sight.
The building facades of Dukezong Ancient Town give a thick, wealthy feel.
On the square, a Tibetan mastiff lazily lay in the sun. Though it seemed gentle, no one dared to tease it.
This mastiff charges for photo taking.
In high-altitude Shangri-La, reduce physical activity. Even a small hill climb might cause oxygen deficiency.
The world's largest prayer wheel in Dukezong Ancient Town requires at least 10 people to turn. When we went up, there was a tour group, otherwise, during this off-season with few people, it wouldn't turn.
A place Qu Xiaopang always yearned for: Potatso National Park, where Xie Na and Zhang Jie had their wedding. Maybe she likes Zhang Jie's songs, love me love my dog. Potatso National Park is large. Inside, you need shuttle buses to reach various spots, similar to Zhangjiajie.
Due to heavy tourism, the park has been damaged. Several spots are now closed; only Shudu Lake is open.
Potatso National Park is a bit far from the city. There are minibuses from the city bus station to the park, likely privately contracted. The driver was a local Tibetan. Along the way, through his introduction, we learned more about Shangri-La and Potatso. Of course, the driver's most common phrase was "Tashi Delek."
The altitude inside the park is much higher than the city, averaging over 3000m, with some places close to 4000m. There's a lot of walking. Given Qu Xiaopang's psychological effect, we bought two oxygen bottles. After getting off, it was clearly very cold. We only wore light clothes, so we rented two heavy coats.
The weather was not as good as yesterday; it was overcast. Otherwise, the scenery would have been better.
The off-season reason is also the weather—the plants and trees are not as lush. In summer with clear weather, it would be a great place.
The rented heavy down jackets kept us warm. Not as ugly as I expected. The women's red down jacket was a bit...
A yak watched her jump. At every place, she had to jump for a photo. It wasn't as high as it looked; she mainly lifted her calves high. I captured a good shot.
We walked along the lake for a long distance, about 2-3 hours. Fortunately, there were few people; otherwise, this narrow path would be packed.
Where are the cattle and sheep going?
This was walking in the primeval forest, with free-range cattle and sheep.
The distant grassland should be covered with cattle and sheep, but too far to see clearly. I thought walking along the lake would lead there, but the trail ended before that. Probably because many scenic spots are closed.
After circling a large area, there was a shuttle bus at the end to take us back to the entrance. If other spots were open, there would be a bus to another spot.
Since most of Potatso National Park is closed, half a day was enough. We returned to the city around 2-3 PM.
What I remember most about Shangri-La was the dinner of Yang Guo Fu Malatang (spicy hotpot). It was the most expensive Yang Guo Fu I've ever had. The shop was near the Crystal Orange Hotel. We spent over 70 RMB, and we didn't even eat much. In Dalian, a malatang meal is at most 30-40 RMB. Vegetables and fruits in Shangri-La are expensive because they need to be transported from other cities.
The temperature difference between day and night in Shangri-La is huge. It was very cold at night, but that didn't stop us from wanting to see the ancient town's night view.
The enthusiasm of square-dancing aunties is unstoppable everywhere. In Dukezong Ancient Town square, they had a collective square dance. Passionate, bold, and with Tibetan characteristics.
Many people in Tibetan areas want a Tibetan knife. The knives in the ancient town are very expensive. Outside the ancient town, it's hard to find shops selling Tibetan knives. If you want to buy one, it's better to buy from the factory. However, taking it away is difficult. You can't carry it, and shipping requires local real-name registration. Regulations are strict now, so I gave up on owning a Tibetan knife.
We stayed in Shangri-La for two days. The next afternoon, we flew to Chengdu. Initially, we didn't plan to go to Chengdu and Chongqing, but we found a flight from Shangri-La to Chengdu, and spending a couple of days in Chengdu and Chongqing, then flying from Chongqing back to Dalian was a good idea. Otherwise, we'd have to take a bus back to Lijiang, and there's no direct flight from Lijiang to Dalian.
After two days in Shangri-La, Qu Xiaopang was still not satisfied, saying she wants to come again. She likes this place. If we come again, we can visit nearby snowy mountains or go deeper into Tibetan areas. I've always wanted to go to Yubeng Village, a true paradise. No roads lead there; you have to hike through the mountains. But without physical fitness, it's hard to get in.
Chengdu, a city you don't want to leave once you arrive. I wrote a travelogue last time when I came alone.
Chengdu is just a city, but it always makes people linger. It has a unique charm.
It took over an hour to fly from Shangri-La to Chengdu. Our flight was after 3 PM, and it was dark by the time we reached downtown. The most profound feeling upon returning to Chengdu was finally no oxygen deficiency, though maybe a bit of oxygen intoxication.
I booked the Grand King Town Hotel in Kuanzhai Alley. The hotel is right at Kuanzhai Alley, a five-minute walk. It's near the metro, convenient to go anywhere by subway. From the airport, we took the subway directly to the hotel.
Last time I visited Kuanzhai Alley during the day; this time we experienced it at night.
Chengdu's specialty: pandas.
Panda dolls and paintings are everywhere in Chengdu. It's a panda city, home to the world's largest panda breeding base.
Actually, Kuanzhai Alley is similar to commercial food streets in other cities.
Although it's called Kuanzhai Alley, there are actually three alleys: Wide Alley, Narrow Alley, and Well Alley.
This wood is called golden-hemp nanmu. A set of tables and chairs made of this wood can cost tens of thousands or even over 100,000 RMB.
Sichuan has many specialties, including Sichuan opera face-changing.
Coming to Chengdu, you must eat chuanchuanxiang (skewers). Last time I came alone, I didn't have it. I didn't want to eat skewers or hotpot alone.
This brand, Chuan Tian Xia, is just downstairs from the hotel. We ate skewers first, then went to Kuanzhai Alley.
We started searching for good food while on the subway. This place had good reviews.
In Sichuan, eating hotpot or skewers with oil dip is almost mandatory. But maybe only outsiders use it. Using oil dip makes it less spicy. The oil dip is placed on the table, charged at 5 RMB per bottle.
Since Qu Xiaopang can't handle very spicy food, we ordered a鸳鸯锅 (Yuanyang pot, half spicy, half mild). I felt that since we're in Sichuan, we must experience the numbing spiciness. The skewers were self-serve. Since it was our first visit, there was a promotion reducing 50 RMB. So overall, the price was reasonable, and the taste was good.
We planned to visit Wuhou Shrine and Jinli Snack Street. But while we were at Wuhou Shrine, it started pouring rain, so we had to rush back to the hotel. The day's itinerary was mostly ruined by the heavy rain.
Wuhou Shrine and Jinli are adjacent. Last time I came during the Spring Festival, there was a lantern festival at Wuhou Shrine.
We didn't wait until Chongqing to have hotpot; we started in Chengdu.
After much online searching, we chose Bashu Dajiang at Chunxi Road. Again we ordered yuanyang pot. The mild part was just a small center. Looking at the pot full of chili peppers, it was spicy to even think about.
Qu Xiaopang said Sichuan hotpot has no soul because there's no sesame sauce, only oil dip.
When the red oil melted and the pot boiled, it made our appetites soar.
Duck blood; too red.
When checking, this place was said to be very popular, usually with queues. But when we went, there were few people. However, looking at the rows of stools for waiting, it showed that during peak season, there are many. We went around 2-3 PM.
We stayed in Chengdu for two nights. Maybe we had been traveling too long; by the time we reached Chengdu, we were already tired of playing. Plus, the weather in Chengdu wasn't good during these two days, so our Chengdu trip was quite limited. After eating and drinking, we slowly strolled on Chengdu's streets. The rain stopped, and we walked all the way to Tianfu Square.
Chengdu is very close to Chongqing, similar to Beijing to Tianjin. High-speed trains are frequent.
Chongqing, a 5D fantasy city.
Chongqing is indeed a magical city with distinct characteristics. Even just wandering around the city is incredible.
Chongqing has become an internet-famous city, with countless people coming to check in. Chongqing and Dalian are similar in that there are almost no non-motor vehicle lanes. As a mountain city, biking is too difficult.
We took a high-speed train from Chengdu to Chongqing in the morning. After getting off, we took Chongqing's famous rail transit, which goes through mountains, buildings, and has 90-degree turns, like a roller coaster.
We booked a Ji Hotel on Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street. This might be the worst Ji Hotel I've ever stayed at. The facilities were too old; it seemed to have been open too long without renovation. The location is excellent, right on Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street, two minutes from the monument.
This time, I got off the rail transit at the same mall as last time, and again couldn't find the exit. Other cities' subway maps are flat, only Chongqing's are 3D. It's a city where even Baidu Maps is not easy to use.
After checking in and unpacking, our first stop was Ciqikou Ancient Town.
Another ancient town characteristic of Chongqing, built on a mountain, often requiring climbing stairs.
In Chongqing, the most common sights are hotpot and noodles. In the ancient town, the most common are these pots of hotpot base. The smell is incredibly fragrant.
When I first came to Ciqikou alone during the Spring Festival, it was packed, so crowded I didn't recognize myself. Even now in the off-season, there are still many people. Ciqikou seems a must-visit for tourists.
The ancient town is full of shops selling chili sauce, offering free samples. Those who can't handle spicy should be cautious. Qu Xiaopang is a cautionary tale.
An ancient town requiring climbing steps.
Without physical strength, you can't survive in Chongqing.
Ciqikou has too many noodles and hotpots. Having a bowl of noodles nearby is a good choice. We found a place and specifically ordered a non-spicy Chongqing noodle, but it was still extremely spicy.
By the time we returned from Ciqikou to the pedestrian street, it was dark. After a short rest at the hotel, we went to Chongqing's most iconic place: Hongya Cave.
Hongya Cave has 11 floors. Legend has it that from the first floor, you take the elevator to the 11th floor, and you end up back on the 1st floor.
The night view of Hongya Cave is top-notch. On one side is the brilliant lights of Hongya Cave, on the other is the Qiansimen Bridge over the Jialing River.
Hongya Cave is truly a cave. Entering the cave and looking out, it's like Water Curtain Cave. At that time, the Qiansimen Bridge lights weren't on yet.
As we walked, the lights on Qiansimen Bridge came on. The first time I came, I thought the river below was the Yangtze, but later I saw it was the Jialing, which merges with the Yangtze further ahead.
This is the best spot to photograph Hongya Cave. All promotional photos of Hongya Cave include this angle. There are many people here. Previously, you could cross the road from above to reach this side. But now, due to the heavy crowd, the road is completely blocked. Pedestrians cannot cross. To get across, you have to go down to the lowest level of Hongya Cave, walk behind it, and at about the middle part, go under the bridge to the other side, then walk back. This path is hard to find.
Hongya Cave seems to be in peak season all year round. Whenever you go, there are many people, especially at night.
This young lady was going all out to take a photo of her boyfriend. The pose was touching.
Chongqing's nightlife is very rich. After visiting Hongya Cave, we returned to Jiefangbei Pedestrian Street around 8-9 PM. The street was still packed, most likely tourists.
This was the last day of our trip. Our flight from Chongqing to Dalian was at night. We slept in. The final day's plan was to wander slowly in this fantasy city. Sometimes slow wandering reveals different urban scenery.
Kaixuan Road Elevator. We passed by it by chance. When I checked Baidu Maps, it told me to go down directly from here. It's an outdoor elevator, rare in most cities. Riding it costs 1 or 2 RMB per person. You can also take the stairs next to it. We took the elevator down and climbed the stairs up.
This elevator is quite unique. On the way back up, we saw another Chongqing specialty: mahjong. Some elderly people, aunties and uncles, set up tables at the staircase entrance to play mahjong. They really love it.
During our idle wandering, we saw a Baixiang Street. Inside, a couple seemed to be traveling for marriage; they were wearing wedding dresses and carrying big bags, taking photos everywhere. It seemed fun, though the bags looked heavy. This kind of travel wedding felt really good.
Our two-week honeymoon trip ended at Chongqing Airport. Holding a thick stack of double tickets and receipts, a strong sense of happiness arose.
Two backpacks, one DSLR, two people's journey.
Travelogue Directory:
1. Xi'an
2. Day 1
3. Day 2
4. Day 3
5. Lijiang
6. Day 4
7. Day 5
8. Day 6
9. Lugu Lake
10. Day 7
11. Day 8
12. Day 9
13. Shangri-La
14. Day 10
15. Day 11
16. Potatso National Park
17. Day 12
18. Chengdu
19. Day 13
20. Day 14
21. Chongqing
22. Day 15
23. Day 16
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