Travelogue of Six Cities in Sichuan, Chongqing and Shaanxi

This year's vacation trip was originally planned for Wenzhou and Xiamen, but by July, typhoons ravaged the eastern coast. Although southern Zhejiang and eastern Fujian were not severely affected, the weather forecast showed continuous rain, so we had to give it up for safety. Zeze kept clamoring to go to Yunnan, so we shifted our focus from the southeastern coast to the southwestern interior. Due to limited vacation days, going to Kunming would require flying, which was too expensive. Travel agencies offered 6- or 8-day round-trip tours to Yunnan ranging from 2,500 to 4,000 yuan, but group tours come with many restrictions and shopping hassles, hardly our preference. Upon further inquiry, we learned that Zeze insisted on Yunnan because her grandmother and aunts had flown there last year and painted a rosy picture upon return. Zeze didn't really understand what Yunnan was like, but she knew it was far away and required a plane—the only mode of transport she hadn't tried yet, apart from a spaceship. Since no one around had taken a spaceship, that could wait, but the plane was something many family members had ridden and often bragged about, which annoyed her. So this time, she insisted on Yunnan, mainly for the plane ride! After learning this, we adjusted our itinerary and set Jiuzhaigou as our destination, of course arranging a flight on the trip. I bounced around various discount airline websites, comparing prices and considering travel factors, and finally settled on a rough plan: train to Chengdu, bus to Jiuzhaigou, bullet train to Chongqing, train to Xi'an, plane to Jinan, and finally bus home. To maximize the plane's utility, we didn't opt for cheaper red-eye flights but chose the 7:30-8:55 morning flight with a 4.6 discount for adults. Total for the three of us was 1,670 yuan, plus the long-distance bus from Jinan home. Compared to taking the train all the way, the plane alone cost an extra 1,400 yuan.

Five days before departure, we got the hard sleeper tickets from Yanzhou to Chengdu. I also registered an account on 12306.cn, and the online ticket buying experience was really smooth. With a few clicks, I easily purchased two hard sleeper tickets for L218 from Chongqing to Xi'an—a train that departs in the evening and arrives in the morning, saving on accommodation and gaining sightseeing time. At the same time, I bought the Xi'an-Jinan flight tickets on the Sichuan Airlines website. Before we even set off, money was already flowing out. But once these tickets were in hand, the overall framework of the trip was settled, and I felt much more at ease.

**Leshan Giant Buddha

At 11:30 p.m. on Friday night, we boarded the train. I climbed to the upper berth and lay down, while Zeze and her mom slept on the lower berth. Five-and-a-half-year-old Zeze had just slightly exceeded the free-ticket height of 1.2 meters, enjoying the last bit of travel height privilege. But this made things difficult for her mom: the narrow hard sleeper bed was almost entirely occupied by Zeze, who kept stretching her arms and legs. Her mom had to lie on her side, clinging to the edge to prevent Zeze from rolling off.

To kill time during the entire Saturday train journey, we brought lots of snacks. Zeze specially carried her small backpack, stuffed with her favorite treats. We also brought three Berenstain Bears picture books, a stack of drawing paper, some watercolor pens, a set of cardboard puzzle toys, and a newly purchased compact portable speaker, preloaded with many audio children's stories. These all proved very useful, especially the small speaker. Zeze listened intently to the stories and played "Cinderella" countless times along the way, eventually able to tell it herself.

By the time we reached Hubei Province, the train was already one hour late, but it made up time later and arrived in Chengdu at 8:40 p.m.—five minutes early. It seemed the train also felt my eagerness to reach the Land of Abundance!

Seeing that it was still early and the cloudy weather was quite cool, we adjusted our original plan to spend a leisurely day in Chengdu and decided to go to Leshan instead. So we split into two groups: one went to the accommodation to drop off luggage, and the other rushed to Xinnanmen Bus Station to buy tickets to Leshan and tickets for the next day to Jiuzhaigou. Buses from Chengdu to Leshan run frequently; before 4 p.m., they depart when full. Around 12:30 p.m., we arrived at Xiaoba Bus Station in Leshan. From there, we could take Bus 13 directly to the Leshan Giant Buddha scenic area, but we were starving, so we took Bus 1 to the city center for lunch.

Not far from where we got off, at an intersection, there was a memorial sculpture group. Upon closer look, it turned out to be the Monument to the Victims of the August 19 Air Raid. Leshan is close to Chongqing, which served as the wartime capital during the Anti-Japanese War. Although located deep in the southwest, it did not escape the invasion of the Japanese aggressors. On August 19, 1939, the Japanese invaders dispatched 36 bombers to brutally bombard Leshan city, completely destroying one-third of the city, killing over 4,000 people, and leaving tens of thousands homeless. After 63 long years, Leshan finally held a grand gathering to build this monument.

The streets in Leshan city are not very wide, but they don't feel congested or stuffy, rather humid without being dry, cool and pleasant. Leshan is famous worldwide for its riverside giant Buddha, and since ancient times it has enjoyed the reputation of "the best landscapes in the world are in Shu, and the finest of Shu is Jiazhou." It is a national historical and cultural city and one of the most culturally developed areas in Sichuan, regarded as an important sample of Bashu culture.

After a simple lunch, we took Bus 13 to the Leshan Giant Buddha scenic area. As soon as we entered the gate and climbed the steps, we were immersed in a lush, shady atmosphere. Dense trees enveloped the entire mountain and the people inside. Only by looking out through gaps in the trees could we see the wide river surging mightily. The vermilion cliffside carvings were half-hidden by clusters of verdant grass, requiring careful identification to discern the words and phrases. These words perfectly interpreted our immediate senses, so whenever we deciphered one, we felt a sudden clarity and understanding.

The mountain is not high, and we soon reached the flat top. There stood Lingyun Temple, with thriving incense. Walking to the edge of the mountain at the temple square, we suddenly came face to face with the giant Buddha's head. The Buddha's eyes were half-closed, kind and benevolent, with a dignified and serene countenance. Indeed, one must "start from the head" to see the Great Buddha. To get a full view, we queued for over an hour before descending the Nine-Bend Plank Road. This plank road was carved into the mountain at the same time as the Buddha. The narrowest part is only 0.6 meters wide, with 217 stone steps winding down the cliff to the river bank at the Buddha's feet. Since it only allows single-file passage, although the queue above moved inch by inch, once on the plank road, progress was quick. Along the cliff were ancient stone niches with Buddha figures, but most had weathered beyond recognition.

Looking at the Great Buddha from the plank road, one cannot help but be awed by its magnificent and imposing posture. The Buddha has broad shoulders and a wide chest, sitting against the mountain with arms naturally resting on his knees, his massive body facing the confluence of three turbulent rivers, with compassion and tranquility. Imagining the past when the river waters raged, often capsizing boats and drowning people, Monk Haitong, out of compassion to save sentient beings, vowed to carve a giant Maitreya Buddha statue on the cliff, hoping to rely on the Buddha's boundless power to tame the violent waves and benefit all beings. After nine decades and several generations of carving, the Great Buddha was finally completed in the 19th year of the Zhenyuan era of Emperor Dezong of Tang (803 AD).

According to historical records, the Buddha was originally painted in bright colors, resplendent and magnificent. The red sandstone of Lingyun Mountain is loose and easy to carve but susceptible to weathering. To protect the statue, the ancients built a nine-story wooden pavilion to cover it, designed a scientific and concealed drainage system, and carried out repairs over the centuries, allowing the Buddha to stand here for 1,200 years. With a seated height of 71 meters, it is the world's tallest stone Buddha statue. In December 1996, the Leshan Giant Buddha, together with Mount Emei, was inscribed on the World Natural and Cultural Heritage List. The same fate did not befall the world's tallest standing Buddha—the Bamiyan Buddhas in Afghanistan, also carved over 1,000 years ago. Due to the arrogance and ignorance of the Taliban extremist organization, this world cultural heritage treasure was destroyed in 2001.

As the Nine-Bend Plank Road neared its end, the vast Buddha feet appeared before us. Their size exceeded my imagination. I recalled seeing a photo in my childhood where many people stood on one of the Buddha's toenails, which amazed me and sparked my original longing for the Leshan Giant Buddha. Seeing it today truly satisfied my heart.

Standing on the platform by the river, looking up at the Maitreya's countenance, the Buddha's lowered eyes seemed to gaze upon us ordinary beings from all over the world. The sound of the surging river filled my ears, and I felt truly small. But the Buddha says, "A grain of sand contains a world, a leaf contains a Bodhi; all beings are equal, and everyone can become a Buddha." The Buddha's wisdom and enlightenment are meant to perfect oneself and save others. Under the Buddha's radiant light, no one is left out. The worries of life are not about the presence or absence of external things, but rather about the state of one's inner mind.

Passing the Buddha's feet, on the left side is the "Lingyun Plank Road" carved in modern times. It cuts through cliffs and caves, hidden among sheer precipices, forming a circular tour route with the Nine-Bend Plank Road. We took this path to Jizhi Gate, where there were two forks: one uphill to the East Gate, the other to the South Gate and Wuyou Temple. We chose the South Gate direction. This path was densely wooded, with few tourists, and had a wild charm, though it was a longer walk. We passed the Mahao Cliff Tomb from the Eastern Han Dynasty, which was included in the ticket price, so we visited it. We were basically the only visitors. The cliff tomb was a square cave carved by hand, taller than a person. The inner part was off-limits, but lights were on inside, revealing some stone carvings and several beautiful stone reliefs on the rock wall.

Continuing forward, we passed a replica Qing-dynasty ancient village—Fishing Village. On the right, a unique arched bridge appeared in the river. On an islet in the middle of the river, vegetation was exceptionally dense, with faint eaves peeking through—that was Wuyou Temple. With limited time, as we needed to return to Chengdu in the evening, we didn't go there and went straight to the road. There happened to be a Bus 13 stop.

Besides sightseeing, travel also includes food, shopping, etc. We asked a private taxi driver on the roadside and agreed on 20 yuan to take us to a famous Niu Hua Tofu Pudding snack shop. There, we ordered Leshan specialties: beef burritos, tofu pudding, cold cakes, and something called "fen." As for the taste, some were spicy, some were sweet—we really couldn't handle them.

At 6:30 p.m., we boarded the bus back to Chengdu. Two hours later, we arrived at Xinnanmen Station. By then, the banks of the Jinjiang River were lit up with lights, and a cool breeze was blowing—very pleasant. Thinking about the next day's trip to Jiuzhaigou, we didn't feel tired at all.

*Tips supplement:

- There are multiple bus stations between Chengdu and Leshan, but they correspond to each other. Xinnanmen's buses go to Xiaoba, which is the most convenient. Chengdu has frequent departures; Leshan has buses every 20 minutes. I bought return tickets as soon as I got off the bus. The ticket seller said if we came back early, we could exchange for an earlier ticket.

- After viewing the Great Buddha, if you don't necessarily want to see the Mahao Cliff Tomb or Wuyou Temple, you can go directly to the East Gate. There are some scenic spots along the way that you didn't see when coming up. We didn't go that way because we mistakenly thought the East Gate was the main entrance, but actually the main entrance is the North Gate. From the East Gate, you can take Bus 13, which saves a lot of time and distance compared to going to the South Gate and Wuyou Temple.

- "Oriental Buddha Capital" is a man-made attraction. I'm told it's not entirely uninteresting, but I generally don't go there, partly due to time and cost considerations.

- If your schedule is tight (Xinnanmen - Xiaoba - Main Gate - Great Buddha - East Gate - Xiaoba - Chengdu), half a day is enough to see the highlights of Leshan. You can come early, visit, have lunch, and return to Chengdu. Take a nap on the bus, arrive at Xinnanmen around 3 or 4 p.m., then leisurely visit Kuanzhai Alley or Jinli, have dinner, and spend the day relaxed and comfortable.

**The Sublime Beauty of Jiuzhaigou (Before Entering the Valley)

I had long yearned for Jiuzhaigou.

There are two roads from Chengdu to Jiuzhaigou: the western route via Dujiangyan and Wenchuan, 440 km; the eastern route via Mianyang and Jiangyou, 530 km. The journey takes 9-12 hours. After the great earthquake, the western route was repaired and is now better and shorter, so most people take this route now. Some travelers suggest taking a loop for the round trip to enjoy different scenery—that makes sense, but it's not up to us since we're taking long-distance buses, and the route is decided by the bus company.

This time, we didn't join a tour group. Last year, we went to Changbai Mountain with a tour group and felt very uncomfortable. We found it wasn't as difficult as imagined, and all the time was wasted in shopping stores. For a well-known mature tourist area like Jiuzhaigou, public transportation is well-developed. Xinnanmen Bus Station is Chengdu's tourism distribution center. Every morning from about 7:20 to 7:50, a bus departs for Jiuzhaigou every five minutes. We bought tickets for the 7:35 bus the day before.

Coincidentally, the day before we left, the road near Yingxiu in Wenchuan collapsed, so the bus to Jiuzhaigou had to take the eastern route. When we returned, the road was open, and we took the western route back. Indeed, the scenery on both sides was different. Because of the landslide, there were fewer tourists in Jiuzhaigou than usual for those two days—another lucky break for us.

However, the eastern route took a full 12 hours. It started on the expressway, then turned onto ordinary roads. The further north we went, the more winding the roads became. Zeze got a bit carsick and was coaxed to sleep by her mom several times. Around noon, the bus stopped in Pingwu for lunch. Fifteen yuan for a bowl of rice with toppings—people lined up to buy, as it was more proper than eating bread and drinking cold water. The bus stopped several times mainly for water and rest. Even the most seasoned driver had to be extra careful on this road.

Jiuzhaigou Valley's entrance is at an altitude of 2,040 meters, 1,500 meters higher than Chengdu, about the same as climbing Mount Tai. So after entering Aba Prefecture, a chill set in. From Jiuzhaigou County to the entrance took another two hours or so. In the evening, we finally arrived at Jiutong Bus Station at the valley entrance. The extreme inaccessibility in the past created and preserved Jiuzhaigou's pristine beauty, but now, with its growing fame and influx of tourists, that beauty is rapidly fading.

As we got off the bus, locals came to solicit accommodation, offering standard rooms for only 150 yuan. I had booked a room at the Caogen Renjia Youth Hostel online for 280 yuan per night, so I regretted it a bit. But Zeze's mom consoled me, saying we didn't know what conditions those 150-yuan rooms had, and since it was late, having a settled place was better. That made sense.

We hailed a taxi and agreed to stop at the entrance to buy tickets and then go to the hotel—15 yuan. The hostel was in Pengfeng Village, the nearest administrative village to Jiuzhaigou. On both sides of a rushing river, hotels and shops stood in rows, very lively, far from our usual image of a village. Caogen Renjia was in a small alley. The room was decent, with carpet, but no toothbrush or soap.

After dropping off our luggage, it was almost 9 p.m. We ordered a few dishes at a small restaurant opposite our lodging, drank two liang of homemade barley wine, and five of us spent nearly 200 yuan. The food was mediocre. But this was our first proper restaurant meal and first drink since leaving home.

After dinner, we strolled around. There were still many people. In the dim light, the nearby mountains showed patches of varying shades of black like clouds. It wasn't as cold as legend said; a thin jacket over a T-shirt was enough.

We went to bed, agreeing to get up at 5:30 the next morning.

*Tips supplement:

- For buses from Xinnanmen to Jiuzhaigou, be sure to find the bus according to the specific departure time on the ticket. The time is used to differentiate buses, but they don't strictly depart at that exact minute. Usually before 8 o'clock, they leave when full. After buying tickets, we didn't look closely at the time, thinking it was 7:30. That morning it was raining, and we hurriedly boarded a bus marked 7:30, even discussed swapping seats to sit together. Later, we found our tickets clearly said 7:35. So we had to quickly switch buses, almost leaving a bag of fruit on the first bus.

- Jiuzhaigou Tourism Transport Center is Jiutong Bus Station. It takes about ten minutes to walk to the entrance along National Highway 301. Further ahead is Pengfeng Village, the main concentration of hotels and shops near the entrance. Most claim to be about 800 meters from the entrance, but walking takes 10-20 minutes. A taxi from there to the entrance (scenic area gate) usually costs no more than 10 yuan.

- Jiuzhaigou entrance ticket is 220 yuan, and the internal shuttle bus is 90 yuan, seemingly sold together, and can be paid by card. The ticket is in postcard form but without prepaid postage; you need to add stamps to mail it. Half-price tickets use the old design worth 170 yuan, stamped with "paid 110 yuan," and postage is already paid, so you can mail them directly.

- The ticket does not have a date, so if you find accommodation inside the valley and stay overnight, the next day, even if someone checks tickets, they can't tell you entered twice. We didn't encounter any ticket checks during our entire day in the valley.

- Hotel prices in Jiuzhaigou vary greatly with seasons and tourist numbers, and sometimes even within a day. Booking online is like buying futures, and prepayment guarantee is often required.

- Our group of five, including two people in their sixties and a five-and-a-half-year-old child, had no altitude sickness. Although we each drank two bottles of Rhodiola rosea the day before in Chengdu, I don't think it was due to that. I didn't see any oxygen stations in Jiuzhaigou.

**The Sublime Beauty of Jiuzhaigou

At 5:30, Zeze also got up. After a quick wash, we went to the same restaurant as the night before for breakfast. They had started cooking early, and the landlady was very warm. At the intersection, there were many taxis. We took one directly to the entrance, costing 10 yuan. It was just getting light, and the scenic area gate had not yet opened.

At 6:30, the westernmost ticket gate began operation. We went in and boarded the first sightseeing bus. Within two minutes, it was packed, and the bus departed. Our Jiuzhaigou journey officially began.

The first section had no special scenery. On the left side of the road, a jade-green river rushed through the valley. The bus went upstream and soon reached the first scenic spot—Hoye Village. This village looks like a large lotus leaf from above, hence its name. This section is the Shuzheng Valley. The sightseeing bus does not stop on the way up to the entrance but goes directly to the Primeval Forest, introducing each spot along the way. I pressed my face against the window, greedily looking out. In the early morning light, the entire Jiuzhaigou seemed still asleep. Did our motor disturb her? Even a glimpse from the bus stirred my excitement. She was so beautiful.

After the bus turned right at Nuorilang Center, the mountain road became more winding. Zeze, having just eaten breakfast, felt carsick and said she was going to vomit. The driver let us off at the Arrow Bamboo Lake stop. Zeze threw up by the roadside. We were indeed the first batch of visitors; from here to Five Flower Lake, we only saw crowds later.

In the early morning, Arrow Bamboo Lake was shrouded in a thin mist. The wide, blue-green water surface reflected the cloudy mountains. A few wild ducks swam by, creating ripples. On the opposite shore, we could vaguely see a plank road, but didn't know how to get there. Walking along, we finally discovered the wooden plank road leading into the lake. This plank road was built over a swiftly flowing stream. Strolling along it, we felt merged into this natural wonder of emerald seas and cascading waterfalls, accompanied by intertwined trees, fragrant flowers, flowing water, and protecting mountains. We didn't want to break free.

Arrow Bamboo Lake Waterfall is 150 meters wide and only 7 meters high, with a gentle and soothing sound—one of the more elegant and quiet waterfalls in Jiuzhaigou. There is no clear watercourse here; instead, trees stand in the stream, and water flows through the forest, creating a complex scene. Infected by the joy of thousands of streams flowing freely, even our steps became light.

Suddenly, we saw a vast expanse of clear blue water ahead—we had reached Panda Lake. Reflecting the peaks, a few white-headed kingfishers were flitting and stopping on some broken logs floating on the water. Passing the lake, we came to a flat rest area. Following the rumbling sound, we descended along the plank road. A fine mist of water hit our faces, and the Panda Lake Waterfall, with the highest drop in Jiuzhaigou, appeared before us. Just moments ago, Panda Lake was so calm; the water surged out of the lake, suddenly plunging down, forming a powerful torrent that roared to the valley bottom like ten thousand horses neighing, with white waves surging, majestic and grand—like a vigorous concerto played in the quiet, secluded forest.

From Panda Lake Waterfall to Five Flower Lake, there was another section of plank road along the mountain foot beside the stream. The forest became denser. Sometimes we saw tall, thick trees lying on the slope with fresh breaks, and there were sunken logs in the water. Signs along the road warned, "Beware of falling rocks, do not stay."

Five Flower Lake is the core attraction of Rize Valley. The water here, reflected by the sky and the shadows of the forest, showed various colors—blue, green, white—like a fairy tale, exquisite and translucent. Facing it, everything was so pure, so serene, so natural, as if the whole world had been washed clean. This was the most splendid and enchanting water I had ever seen. Although lacking sunlight made it a bit plain, this beauty was enough to make other waters bow and submit.

From here, we took a bus intending to go directly to Mirror Lake. The commentator said, "Why not go to Pearl Shoal? Pearl Shoal Waterfall is the best waterfall in Jiuzhaigou." In the materials I collected before the trip, Mirror Lake was described excessively, while Pearl Shoal was rarely mentioned, so I thought it was just an ordinary spot that could be skipped. Hearing her words, I was a bit skeptical, but we still got off at Pearl Shoal.

As the stream reached this area, it spread over a large gentle slope of shoal. The rock surface of the shoal was covered with pits of various sizes, splashing countless water droplets that jumped and scattered like pearls. Bai Juyi's famous line "Large pearls and small pearls fall onto a jade plate" perfectly depicts this scene. Standing on the central plank road and looking ahead, the torrent suddenly disappeared. Turning right and descending, a stretch of white waterfall appeared on the right, with water vapor filling the air and a deafening roar. It turned out that the end of the sloping shoal was a cliff. The vast shoal water plummeted straight down the valley, splitting the rock face, forming several cascades, like thousands of troops shouting and charging forward, displaying an irresistible explosive force and impact. Standing on the viewing platform directly in front of the waterfall, looking up, letting the spray and mist drench us, the scene blurred before my eyes, but my heart swelled with heroism and sharpness. The water fell into Danzu Gully and continued to surge and roar, rolling white-tipped green waves.

Following the plank road, we soon came to a fork. Turning right and crossing a bridge led to the Mirror Lake parking lot; going straight led to Mirror Lake. We continued in the direction marked on the guide sign for Mirror Lake. Along the way, we asked a cleaner if we had reached Mirror Lake. She said, "This is it," but we saw lush reeds everywhere—it didn't look like the mirror-like feeling we had imagined.

We walked for a while and finally encountered another guide sign indicating that our location was Mirror Lake. Really? The water surface was quite wide, and the reflections were nice, but it didn't stir much surprise in me. Perhaps the continuous stunning scenery along the way had piled up in my heart before I could digest it, leading to aesthetic fatigue? Later, thinking back, Mirror Lake was still very beautiful. Its beauty lies in its grandeur and composure, in the way it embraces the endless mountains in its bosom yet remains so quiet and tranquil. The turbulent stream upstream calmed down when it reached here, as if nestling into a mother's arms to rest before moving on.

From the guide sign, we saw that the next stop, Nuorilang, was still far away. So we turned back to the Mirror Lake parking lot and took a sightseeing bus back to Nuorilang Center. At some point, it started drizzling, and the sun rarely showed itself. This was a great pity for sightseeing.

We took shelter from the rain in the waiting pavilion at Nuorilang Center. It was past noon. We heard that the restaurant here was very expensive, and many online guides advised bringing your own food. So we ate some of the provisions we had brought as lunch.

The rain continued, and Zeze was a bit drowsy. We took a sightseeing bus to Long Lake, so Zeze could nap on the bus to regain energy.

The left branch of the Y-shaped route in Jiuzhaigou is Zechawa Valley, ending at the highest and largest lake in the scenic area—Long Lake. Along the way, we mainly passed Upper, Middle, and Lower Seasonal Lakes and Zechawa Village. Because the attractions are concentrated, there were many tourists at Long Lake, quite different from our experience earlier in the day.

The best viewing point for Long Lake is the semi-shady, semi-sunny pine tree, with bare, withered branches on one side and lush, swaying leaves on the other. The trunk stands straight, reaching into the clouds. The vast, dark blue lake was surrounded by overlapping green mountains, shimmering, appearing calm and solemn. White clouds lingered among the mountains, dreamlike. Thinking of the legendary water monsters and the distinct Tibetan and Qiang cultures, a sense of remoteness and mystery arose.

From Long Lake, we followed the crowd downhill and entered a plank road from the roadside. Ahead, a patch of sapphire-like blue crystal faintly emerged. The closer we got, the larger this crystal became, and finally, we saw clearly: in the depths of this valley, there was such a heavenly pool of turquoise water. I couldn't believe my eyes. If I hadn't seen it myself, I would never have imagined there could be such blue, such clear water in the world—blue enough to intoxicate, clear enough to mesmerize. The small and exquisite Five-Color Pond—was it really a piece of heavenly jade left behind in the mortal world? Take more photos—here, no technique or SLR is needed. Just point the lens at that water, and you will capture the most magnificent picture in the world.

In my opinion, although Zechawa Valley has few scenic spots, the Five-Color Pond is fully worthy of representing Jiuzhaigou.

Exiting the Five-Color Pond, we took a bus directly back to Nuorilang Center, then walked through the shopping hall. It was packed with people and noisy. It seemed unreasonable not to buy something. Because Zeze got carsick in the morning, we missed the Primeval Forest. Now it was a bit past 1:30, so we decided to go straight to the top of Rize Valley—the Primeval Forest.

On this ride, Zeze showed no obvious signs of carsickness. The bus passed Swan Lake and Sword Rock Hanging Spring. The hanging spring required careful observation to see—thin streaks on the huge cliff face. When we arrived, we first climbed the Sword Rock viewing platform. Looking into the distance, Sword Rock truly resembled the sharp tip of a sword piercing the clouds.

Here, Zeze found her joy: there was a place to rent costumes for photos. We had seen such a place at Long Lake too, but it was crowded there, and we had heard before that the price here was cheaper. Indeed, perhaps also because of the drizzle, we rented a set of Tibetan children's robes for ten yuan. Zeze was extremely happy, posing in various positions, making full use of those ten yuan.

The Primeval Forest attraction has a circular sightseeing plank road; visitors are not allowed to go inside. This is actually just the edge of Jiuzhaigou's primeval forest, with towering trees dense and vast. Under the drizzling rain, the forest felt even deeper and more majestic. Happily, there were many little squirrels, keeping Zeze busy chasing them.

We took a bus from the Primeval Forest back to Nuorilang Center, then walked to Nuorilang Waterfall, officially starting our tour of Shuzheng Valley.

In Tibetan, "Nuorilang" means male deity, extended to mean tall and majestic. Nuorilang Waterfall is nearly 300 meters wide, the widest waterfall in China. The viewing platform was crowded with people queuing for photos, which ruined the scenery. This was due to herd mentality. Since the waterfall is very wide, we walked a bit further ahead. The crowd thinned, and the viewing platform was a bit farther from the waterfall, but this actually gave a better view and allowed us to appreciate the magnificence.

After viewing the waterfall, we came to a fork. One path led to Mirror Lake. This was the connection point from Mirror Lake along the plank road.

Instead of going up to the road to take a bus like most people, we continued on the plank road. This section had nice scenery. The stream was confined in the valley, with rapid, tumbling waves. We wanted to stop and watch, but were drawn by the beautiful scenery ahead. The plank road was narrow without railings; if too many people walked together, it would be crowded and dangerous.

At a rest point, the plank road leading to Rhinoceros Lake was closed. So we went up to the road and took a bus to Rhinoceros Lake.

I had always thought rhinoceroses were African and Asian tropical animals, never found in Jiuzhaigou. But after searching online, I learned that Asian rhinos were native to China and once widely distributed, including in the Sichuan area. Due to human impact and climate change, their range gradually shifted south and shrank until they became completely extinct in China in the 1950s.

The name "Rhinoceros Lake" differs from most lakes in the valley, which are named after shapes. It is the second-largest lake in Jiuzhaigou and the main attraction of Shuzheng Valley. What a vast blue-green lake! Distant mountains and near grass were well-defined, the view wide. Green mountains and clouds were reflected, making it hard to tell which was real mountain and which was cloud shadow—blinking made you unable to distinguish.

We crossed a bridge at the southern end of the lake to the opposite shore. There were no other tourists on this side. The plank road was shaded by dense woods on the slope, cool and refreshing. On the left, the wide stream was dotted with flowers and trees. Sometimes a serene, intoxicating blue surface appeared, sometimes a low, surging cascade. Walking, we felt a bit uneasy. We could see the road and buses on the opposite shore, but there was no way to cross.

Finally, a person came from the opposite direction, which put us at ease. Not far ahead, there was a bridge, and suddenly we saw so many people—that made us feel more secure. Crossing the bridge, we reached a mill. I heard this was the filming location for the movie "The Young Heroes." I had seen that movie as a child, remembering it in gray tones. There weren't many movies back then, and this one was famous and quite good. Nowadays, many tourist attractions associate themselves with movie locations to boost their fame; some even changed their names because of movies. I think it's unnecessary—too much talk actually lowers their value.

It was past 5 p.m., and everyone was tired, so we gave up the idea of continuing on the plank road. We took the bus and got off at Spark Lake and Bonsai Shoal, viewing from the lakeside platforms. To my surprise, Bonsai Shoal was very beautiful. On the shallow shoal with flowing water, clusters of flowers, grass, and trees looked like countless bonsai gathered together, vying to show off their charm.

We boarded the bus, and all the beautiful scenery gradually receded. Looking back, I saw the tall, green, majestic mountains standing firm. The pure beauty of Jiuzhaigou had been imprinted in my heart. Whenever I think of it, my soul will be washed, purified, and uplifted.

*Tips supplement:

- The Jiuzhaigou scenic area is large, but it can be visited in one day. In my opinion, enter the valley early, take the sightseeing bus directly to the Primeval Forest, then take the bus down to Arrow Bamboo Lake. The stops in between—Sword Rock Hanging Spring, Fragrant Grass Lake, and Swan Lake—do not stop; it's better to sit on the side near the valley. From Arrow Bamboo Lake, walk back a bit to find the plank road to the opposite shore, or go downstream along the road to the plank road below Arrow Bamboo Lake Waterfall, passing Panda Lake and Five Flower Lake, then take a bus to Pearl Shoal. Via Pearl Shoal Waterfall, walk the plank road to the Mirror Lake parking lot. Note: Mirror Lake is large; the parking lot is at its easternmost end, not the Mirror Lake stop on the sightseeing bus route, but there are dedicated buses to take passengers from the parking lot to the Mirror Lake stop and Nuorilang Center. If you don't take the bus here and continue on the plank road, you'll have to walk all the way to Nuorilang Waterfall to cross to the other side—it's very far. So it's recommended to take the bus to the Mirror Lake stop. Across from the stop is the center of Mirror Lake, with a small viewing platform. You won't stay long, then take another bus to Nuorilang Center.

- At Nuorilang Center, take a short break, have lunch, then take a bus to Zechawa Valley. The bus goes directly to Long Lake; passing Upper and Lower Seasonal Lakes, you can just view from the bus—no stops in between. Walk from Long Lake to Five-Color Pond, then take the bus back to Nuorilang Center. Walk through the shopping hall to Nuorilang Waterfall. Now only Shuzheng Valley remains. If time permits, you can walk along the plank road to the next exit and take a bus to Rhinoceros Lake. Then visit the various lakes of Shuzheng Valley in sequence. All scenic spots have bus stops, and there are plank roads as well.

- All scenic spots in Jiuzhaigou can be reached by road or plank road on foot, but some plank roads are flooded or closed for safety. Roads and plank roads are on opposite sides of the valley, so the views differ. Plank roads are the main paths for sightseeing.

- The Jiuzhaigou scenic area map is usually a big Y shape, for reference convenience, with south at the top and north at the bottom. On larger regional maps, the direction is reversed.

- The lake water is blue and clear, you can see to the bottom, but swimming is strictly prohibited.

- It's not as cold as imagined inside the valley. A long-sleeved shirt is enough; at most, add a vest. You can bring a simple raincoat, but showers in Jiuzhaigou come and go. Wearing a raincoat feels cumbersome; an umbrella is more convenient.

- When returning from Long Lake, you can get off at Zechawa Village to see the Tibetan village. It's very close to Nuorilang Center.

**The Majestic Dujiangyan

On the western route back from Jiuzhaigou to Chengdu, passing through Songpan, Mao County, Wenchuan, and Dujiangyan, the total journey is about 9 hours. We planned to visit Dujiangyan directly after returning from Jiuzhaigou. To save time, we originally thought of leaving the valley around 4-5 p.m., somehow getting to Songpan (about two hours by car), staying there overnight and visiting the ancient town, then taking a bus to Dujiangyan the next day.

There was no other way to get from Jiuzhaigou to Songpan in the afternoon than renting a car—300 yuan. Accommodation in Songpan was easy to arrange, but the bus ticket from Songpan to Dujiangyan was problematic—we would need someone to buy it for us while we were touring Jiuzhaigou on that day. On the night we arrived at Jiuzhaigou, we found that the hotel could arrange tickets from Jiuzhaigou to Dujiangyan, departing at 6:30 a.m. So we finally decided to play it safe and skip Songpan, which also allowed us to enjoy Jiuzhaigou more leisurely.

At 6:30 in the morning, after breakfast, the hotel staff took us to the intersection and put us on the bus. We left Jiuzhaigou in the cool air. The bus soon entered winding mountain roads. There was a place called Nine Bends, but I couldn't count how many there were—switching back and forth in 180-degree turns. Zeze felt uncomfortable, having woken up early, and soon fell asleep in her mother's arms.

The road ran alongside the Minjiang River. The mountains on both sides were towering, and the river grew wider. On the opposite bank was the original national highway damaged by the earthquake, now designated as the "5·12 Wenchuan Great Earthquake Site." Seeing this still evoked the tragedy of that time. As the bus passed Beichuan, Wenchuan, and Yingxiu, all we saw were new buildings and schools—hardly any traces of the disaster. But the unprecedented national unity and perseverance triggered by that earthquake will remain a spiritual driving force for our progress.

In Beichuan, we passed many statues of Yu the Great—this was his hometown. Our country is truly vast. In that ancient era, Yu traveled across rivers and lakes, born in the deep mountains of northern Sichuan, finally dying in Kuaiji Mountain in Jiangnan. Even by today's standards, the distances he covered are remarkable.

Around 3 p.m., we were dropped off at a crossroads in Dujiangyan City. Then we took a taxi directly to the scenic area entrance—Lidui Park. Not far inside was a fountain, with several water jets shooting from the ground, forming a dome-shaped water curtain. In the middle were replicas of some iron blocks; the originals are still underwater, functioning. The greatness of Dujiangyan lies in the fact that this water conservancy and irrigation project built during the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods has been functioning for over 2,000 years, embodying Chinese wisdom. This is truly a miracle. As a cultural relic, Dujiangyan has survived without being damaged by political or religious changes, mainly due to its practicality. Moreover, in the face of various degrees of geological disasters over centuries, Dujiangyan has remained intact, thanks to the ancients making full use of the natural terrain, guiding the flow with minimum artificial construction. This harmonious coexistence and mutual enhancement between man and nature represent the highest level of human understanding and transformation of nature.

Passing the fountain, we walked onto the Yan'gong Causeway, flanked by full-body bronze statues of individuals who contributed to the project over the centuries. Like all projects, Dujiangyan requires regular maintenance and repairs; the difference is that this work has continued for over 2,000 years without interruption. On both sides of the causeway are two small canals, decorated with 248 dragon heads spouting water, based on the Taoist concept of "Wuji generates Taiji, Taiji generates two aspects, two aspects give rise to four forms, four forms evolve into eight trigrams."

Lidui, as the name suggests, is the part of the mountain separated from the main Yulei Mountain by Li Bing when he excavated the Baopingkou (Bottle-Neck Channel). On top of Lidui stands Fúguān Temple, with a front hall housing a stone statue of Li Bing carved in the Eastern Han Dynasty. Behind the hall, a winding staircase leads down to Baopingkou. Leaning on the railing and looking down, we saw the muddy yellow river swiftly flowing through the narrow bottle-neck gorge, rushing toward the fertile Chengdu Plain. Baopingkou is the first phase of the Dujiangyan irrigation system, manually excavated using the method of fire-setting rocks to crack them. Shaped like a bottle neck, it is the throat of the inner river. The natural formation of Lidui also helps block and cushion the water flow, creating favorable conditions for sand discharge and flood release at the Feishayan (Flying Sand Weir).

Exiting Fúguān Temple westward, crossing a rope bridge, we reached Feishayan. This is the third phase of Dujiangyan. The scenery here is sparse, but it is the hub where Li Bing further regulated water volume after the Fish Mouth diversion, using centrifugal force to collect sediment and even boulders carried by the river, ensuring the smooth flow of Baopingkou. It is also the best viewing platform for Lidui and Baopingkou. The river is divided by Lidui: one part flows left into Baopingkou, the other stagnates in front of the weir. During floods, water overflows the spillway and returns to the main stream of the Minjiang River. Looking across the river, the mountains were lush green. On top of Lidui, there were scattered rooflines and eaves, full of vitality and antique charm. Human creation and function have long become one with the mountain and water.

We took the scenic area sightseeing car from Feishayan to the Fish Mouth. This is the forefront of Dujiangyan. Li Bing used a natural sandbar to build a fish-mouth-shaped dividing dike thrusting into the middle of the river, splitting it into two, achieving a 4:6 water distribution during dry and flood seasons, providing a stable irrigation source for the Chengdu Plain. Looking ahead at the Minjiang River, it no longer appeared narrow and cramped as it did when we returned from Jiuzhaigou; instead, it was vast and wide, with a clear white line of rolling waves at the Fish Mouth.

Looking east from the inner river embankment, we saw Yulei Mountain enveloped in dense green forest. Connecting the two sides is the famous Anlan Rope Bridge. There was an ancient rope bridge here, but it was destroyed in the late Ming Dynasty. During the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty, Mr. and Mrs. He raised funds to rebuild it, and it was named Anlan Bridge. The bridge we see today is no longer the original; it was reconstructed in the 1970s when the outer river sluice gate was built. The original bamboo cables were replaced with more durable steel cables, and the wooden piers were replaced with concrete piles. Because the location was moved 100 meters downstream from the Fish Mouth, the bridge length was halved from the original 500 meters. Even so, the Anlan Rope Bridge still spans the river like a ribbon, retaining its ancient charm and imposing manner.

Walking onto the bridge, the feeling was extraordinary—one word: wobbly! You had to tightly grip the steel cables. The more you tried to steady it, the more nervous you became. Below was the surging river, and you couldn't help but look and think. So you just hardened your heart and pressed on. Zeze was very impressed by this bridge. After finally getting ashore, the dizzy feeling lasted for a few minutes.

After crossing the bridge, we arrived at Erwang Temple. The entire building complex is built along the mountain slope, making you almost always look up as you enter. Originally a shrine to honor Li Bing and his son, they were later granted the title of kings in the Song Dynasty, and after the Qing Dynasty, it was renamed Erwang Temple. It was severely damaged in the Wenchuan earthquake but has been restored without a trace. The incense here is still thriving. On the screen wall facing the temple gate are large characters written by Comrade Deng Xiaoping: "Benefiting Generations for Ten Thousand Years."

We did not go to Qinyan Tower; we only walked a section of the Songmao Ancient Trail before turning back. Actually, from here, crossing Yulei Mountain, there is another exit of the scenic area. But after walking nearly ten hours in Jiuzhaigou yesterday and just taking eight hours by bus today, with our luggage still on our backs, and needing to return to Chengdu in the evening, we gave up going further.

Exiting Dujiangyan, we saw not far away a bustling covered bridge with multiple eaves flying upward, magnificent and majestic. We couldn't resist walking over. Inside, the bridge was decorated with painted beams and carved rafters, full of antique charm. Under the setting sun, the inner river rolled eastward beneath the bridge, Baopingkou appeared faintly, and Yulei Pass stood towering. This is the Southern Bridge, known as the "First Bridge of the Tianfu Source."

We took Bus 4 outside the scenic area gate, and after more than half an hour, arrived at the Dujiangyan intercity train station. We bought tickets for the 19:48 bullet train, costing only 15 yuan. We had a simple meal at the station. Arriving at Chengdu Station at 8:30 sharp, we then bought bullet train tickets to Chongqing for after 4 p.m. the next day.

This was our second time in Chengdu within three days. Tomorrow, we would explore it properly.

*Tips supplement:

- The visitor center at the Dujiangyan scenic area offers luggage storage, but it's not free: 5 yuan per piece, and closes at 5:30 p.m. I have stored luggage at Jingpo Lake, Yuantouzhu, Lingshan Giant Buddha, and other scenic areas—none charged, and service was friendly. Disapproval of Dujiangyan here.

- The scenic area mailbox hangs on the west wall of the main gate, still the familiar old-fashioned iron square green box.

- The sightseeing car (Feishayan - Fish Mouth) costs 10 yuan one way, 15 yuan round trip. If you're unsure whether you'll return the same way, buy a one-way ticket; when returning, you can present the one-way ticket at Fish Mouth and pay 5 yuan.

- We had planned to go to Mount Qingcheng, but after visiting Jiuzhaigou, we lacked the energy for mountain climbing.

- The intercity bullet trains between Dujiangyan, Mount Qingcheng, and Chengdu are well-developed, comfortable, economical, and fast.

**Chongqing, the Mountain City

Initially, we had not intended to visit Chongqing. After Chengdu, we were to head to Xi'an to catch the plane. However, upon checking online, we found that the train from Chengdu to Xi'an takes about 15 hours—an overnight train arriving in the afternoon the next day. The train from Chongqing to Xi'an takes only 11 hours, with an extra train departing in the evening and arriving in Xi'an early the next morning, giving us a full day in Xi'an. The bullet train between Chengdu and Chongqing takes only two hours. So we decided to see Chongqing. Although we would only stay less than 24 hours, since it's a big city, it's hard to live there, but hard to see all of it too.

Chongqing is one of China's four municipalities. As early as the pre-Qin period, it was the capital of the Ba State. During the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties, it was the administrative center of Sichuan Province. In 1939, it became one of the six municipalities under the National Government, and even served as the provisional capital during the Anti-Japanese War. In 1997, Chongqing regained its municipality status, commanding the southwest region, forming a strategic triangle with the other municipalities.

Chongqing's night scenery is famous. We arrived in the evening, dropped our luggage at the hotel, and took a car directly to Nanshan Yikeshu, a perfect spot to view Chongqing's nightscape. Climbing from the viewing platform to the top floor of the observation pavilion, we looked out into the distance. Under the dim night lights, Yuzhong District resembled a huge, luminous ark floating on the river, studded with pearls, like stars scattered along the bank, shimmering with splendor. Unfortunately, perhaps due to power constraints, few lights were on, and they went out early.

On Nanshan, we also enjoyed an outdoor dinner in style. A crescent moon appeared and disappeared among the clouds. Low shrubs surrounded our table. Under the dim yellow light, we tasted the owner's homemade osmanthus wine. A cat lazily walked by our feet. In the profound silence, words were superfluous; only thoughts could wander freely. This night in Chongqing was worth savoring.

The next day, we went directly to Ciqikou Ancient Town. We arrived early, so many shops were just opening. Ciqikou dates back to the Song Dynasty and became a bustling commercial port in the Ming Dynasty. In the early Qing Dynasty, due to the local production of blue-and-white porcelain, it was named Ciqikou (Porcelain Mouth). With its rich cultural heritage, it is known as "a stone-paved road, a thousand-year-old Ciqikou."

The town's roads are all paved with stone slabs. Although the buildings on both sides have been renovated in modern times, the old wooden doors and decaying eaves still reveal traces of historical vicissitudes. Looking at these continuous old houses, one can indulge in nostalgic sentiments, but actually living here might not be comfortable.

Ciqikou is home to many famous Chongqing local foods, such as Chen Mahua (fried twisted dough sticks). But when we got there, we found several shops all claiming to be "Chen Mahua"—hard to distinguish the genuine from the fake. Later, we heard they're all fake. Actually, with local products, how do you tell real from fake? The name "Chen Mahua" itself is problematic; it's unclear if it can be registered as a trademark. It's likely that any mahua made by someone surnamed Chen has the right to call it that—it's a generic product name. When I checked online later, there is a relatively authentic Chen Mahua—Chen Changyin, whose company is Chongqing Ciqikou Chen Mahua Food Co., Ltd. Indeed, its official website states its registered trademarks are "Chen Changyin" and "Guzhen Chen Ma," and all storefronts uniformly use "Guzhen Chen Mahua" as the sign. But puzzlingly, some photos in the "Store Display" section of the website show signs that are not their standard font combination; there are even shopfronts of obvious "fake" Chen Mahua, including some places I saw in Ciqikou. It seems brand awareness is still lacking here. I bought some randomly—taste not bad.

After strolling through Ciqikou, we continued forward to the famous Gele Mountain. I heard that a few days earlier, the area was cordoned off while searching for a murderer, who was later shot dead, so the situation had relaxed. Gele Mountain indeed has very dense forests. This natural leisure summer resort, however, feels somewhat eerie due to the notorious Baigongguan and Zhazidong prisons of over 60 years ago and the nationwide fame of the novel "Red Rock."

Baigongguan and Zhazidong are both built on mountainsides, not far apart, and both are small in size. Here, there was only a difference in political views between the interrogators and the interrogated; prisons have no class nature. But differing political views cannot be an excuse for disregarding right and wrong. Considering the overall social development of that time, the Communist Party members imprisoned here indeed represented the progressive forces of society. Their reasonable pursuit of freedom and democracy was unacceptable to the authorities. Faced with the choice between life and ideals, they resolutely chose to sacrifice themselves for their ideals.

Whether a person's life ends at 30 or 80 is, of course, significant for the individual as a physical entity. But once a person possesses a great mind, lofty aspirations, and indomitable will, life becomes merely a carrier for survival, no longer the primary concern. Thus, even if life passes, their great spirit can shine through the ages, inspiring future generations. This spirit transcends party lines and time; it is the inherent spiritual endowment that enables humanity to continuously create civilization and progress. These were truly outstanding representatives of humanity.

I recall Sándor Petőfi's famous poem: "Life is dear, love is dearer; for the sake of freedom, both can be abandoned." In this place where martyrs gave up life and love for freedom, one can truly appreciate the poem's essence.

At noon, we went to Hongyadong for lunch. Hongyadong faces the river, built into the cliff, magnificent and antique. Most restaurants inside serve local specialties, very distinctive. I've forgotten what we ate, but the feeling of eating heartily and comfortably at that small shop with rough wooden square tables and long benches has stayed with me.

We walked from Hongyadong to Chaotianmen. It was around 2 or 3 p.m., with the scorching sun blazing. The riverside square was unbearably hot, and it was under renovation, so we didn't stay long. We took a taxi to Jiefangbei.

Jiefangbei is Chongqing's commercial hub, with towering skyscrapers—a typical urban jungle. We bought Zeze a delicious and expensive foreign ice cream by the roadside, thinking this would give her fond memories of the place.

We returned to the hotel to pick up our luggage, had an early dinner nearby, and took a taxi to Chongqing North Station around 6:30 p.m. to catch the 19:37 train. Then came the problem.

Our hotel was at the southern exit of Caiyuanba Bridge. The day before, it took 20 minutes from the train station, but today we hit a traffic jam. Fortunately, the driver knew his way, weaving through streets and alleys, racing until we arrived ten minutes before departure. His final words reflected his professionalism: "Since you took my car, I couldn't let you miss your train."

Chongqing, in our last moment before leaving, once again showed and conveyed your rigor and warmth.

*Tips supplement:

- Chongqing has relatively few tourist attractions within the city; most are free. Ciqikou and Gele Mountain are in the same area and can be visited in a day. There are sightseeing buses connecting Baigongguan, Zhazidong, and other Red Rock sites, costing 20 yuan per person.

- Trains to Chongqing usually stop at North Station. It is said that the Chongqing Station in the city center will be transformed into an intercity station in the future.

- The extra train L218 from Chongqing North to Xi'an is an old green train, quite dirty, without air conditioning or hot water.

**Famen Temple: Past and Present

I had been to Xi'an many years ago, visiting Huaqing Pool, the Terracotta Warriors, the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda, and the Shaanxi History Museum, as well as climbing Huashan. Xi'an has been prosperous since ancient times, rich in cultural heritage, exuding a thick historical atmosphere wherever I went, showcasing the most glorious peak of our nation and country. At that time, I regretted not visiting Famen Temple. This time, we had only one day and one night in Xi'an. After getting off the train and having breakfast, we went directly to Famen Temple.

Famen Temple is a major attraction on the western route of Xi'an tourism. Actually, Famen Temple is located in Fufeng County, Baoji City, about 100 km from Xi'an city center—a little over an hour's drive. Around 10 a.m., we arrived at the gate of the Famen Temple Cultural Scenic Area.

Famen Temple's worldwide fame stems from the discovery in 1987 of a Buddhist relic—the finger bone of Sakyamuni—in its underground palace. People travel thousands of miles to see the relic with their own eyes. However, it is not easy to see. According to scenic area staff, the relic is only displayed on the 1st and 15th of each lunar month and on weekends; otherwise, it cannot be seen.

The Famen Temple Cultural Scenic Area consists of two main parts. From the gate, passing through the Mountain Gate Square and Buddha Light Avenue, to the He Ten Stupa, is the first part—the Modern Buddhist Pilgrimage Area. Entering via Buddha Light Avenue to the other side is the second part—the Restored Ancient Temple Area. The entire scenic area is vast and grand, especially the He Ten Stupa, 148 meters high, with a unique shape. Inside, it is magnificently decorated, comparable to the Brahma Palace at Lingshan in Wuxi. Moreover, the stupa enshrines the only surviving Buddha bone relic in the world, making all other temples bow in reverence.

Between the Mountain Gate and the He Ten Stupa Plaza lies the 1,230-meter-long Buddha Light Avenue, 108 meters wide, paved with concrete. There is no shade, making it hard to walk under the sun—is this a symbol of the suffering one must endure to reach the other shore? Modern people have found a solution: several sightseeing cars serve as ferries, relieving the suffering of sentient beings while filling their own pockets. However, these sightseeing cars are shaped like little trains, running back and forth before the majestic Buddhas and Bodhisattvas, which looks quite comical.

We were lucky—it was Saturday, so we could view the relic from afar. Although we couldn't see clearly even with effort, we still had a close encounter with this sacred object as possible, indicating that our affinity with the Buddha was not exhausted. Inside, there was a free sutra copying area. You could choose a passage of scripture, with brush and ink provided, and copy it as if no one else was around. You could take it home or leave it there—quite an interesting activity.

This modern Buddhist pilgrimage area obviously cost a lot of money. According to reports, it was designed by a famous architect who also designed Taipei 101. But I felt it was too rigid and restless. The main reason is the lack of undulating terrain, flowing water, and lush vegetation. From the mountain gate, you can see everything at a glance, lacking depth and layering. In this regard, it can't compare to the Lingshan Sacred Realm in Wuxi. If the weather had been blue sky and white clouds with a cool breeze, it might have been better, but the day we went was gray despite the sun, dampening our mood.

Apart from a Ming Dynasty brick pagoda, the ground buildings of the ancient Famen Temple have long been lost to history. If not for the decision to rebuild the pagoda in 1987, Famen Temple might not enjoy today's glory and prosperity. The Restored Ancient Temple Area is mainly a temple rebuilt on the original site, with the highlight being the Famen Temple Museum.

Famen Temple's underground palace had never been looted, yielding 2,499 Tang Dynasty treasures—truly breathtaking. While admiring these exquisite artistic treasures, we should especially remember those who risked their lives to protect the national treasures, even sacrificing themselves. During the Republican period, Zhu Ziqiao organized the restoration of Famen Temple pagoda. They discovered the stone slabs covering the underground palace. Given the war, Zhu thought carefully and decided to seal the entrance, swearing all workers to secrecy. In 1966, facing the Red Guards' frenzied destruction of temples and excavation of ground, Abbot Liangqing of Famen Temple sacrificed himself by self-immolation, sparing the underground palace from calamity. These were great people who truly practiced the essence of Buddhism.

When we came out, it was past 2 p.m. We were starving, so we had a buffet lunch at a vegetarian restaurant near the gate. It was filling, but the taste was average.

My overall impression of the Famen Temple scenic area was disappointing. Too many new additions, and the motive to make money was too obvious. The Buddha is supposed to save sentient beings from suffering; although investment needs returns, sentient beings are now tourists, but they shouldn't be fleeced. The scenic area also lacks spiritual vitality and interest due to the absence of mountain forests and water. However, those thousand-year-old Tang treasures, the legendary story of Famen Temple's underground palace, and the unique Buddha bone relic are still enough to attract, fascinate, and linger in one's memory.

Returning from Famen Temple, we went directly to the Giant Wild Goose Pagoda Square and watched the 6 p.m. music fountain show. This was specially arranged for Zeze, as Buddhas and Bodhisattvas held little appeal for her, but the fountain delighted her. For me and Zeze's mom, it was a revisit, and seeing the long-buried memory scenes reappear stirred special feelings.

**Return Journey and Postscript

From our accommodation in Xi'an to Xianyang Airport took about 20 minutes. In the early morning mist, we arrived at the vast airport plaza. For this trip, we had started as a group of five, but for the sake of the flight, we split into two groups in Chongqing. Zeze's grandparents stayed one more night in Chongqing and took the K16 train back the next day—a well-timed train departing Chongqing North at 12:50 p.m. and arriving in Yanzhou at 1 p.m. the following day. The three of us, on the other hand, rushed to Xi'an overnight, stayed one night, then took the early morning flight to Jinan, and then a long-distance bus home. Both groups arrived home around the same time.

It was Zeze's first time flying. Although we got up very early, she was still excited, bouncing around the waiting hall, striking various poses for photos. The plane took off on time, circled on the runway, then roared upward at an angle, as if eager to escape the constraints and troubles of the ground, to enjoy the freedom of soaring in the vast sky.

Through the porthole, the silver wing trembled slightly in the air, its surface smooth but slightly rough. Zeze sat by the window, twisting her head to look outside. The sun came out. Below the plane were thick, foam-like white clouds, like thick cotton candy. If you stepped on them, it would probably be soft. Ancient painters and poets could only look up at the high sky and white clouds, sketching their beautiful imaginations of this unreachable mysterious space. If they could see this scene as we did today, how great would be the poems they would compose, and how magnificent the paintings they would create!

The plane served a simple breakfast: a box of porridge, two pastries, a small packet of pickles, and hot tea available on request. These ordinary foods, normally tasteless, became somewhat flavorful and even enjoyable in this specific cramped cabin, accompanied by the endless sea of clouds outside. Just like being in a deep valley forest, by a small bridge and flowing water, with a beautiful woman playing a zither, surrounded by twilight—even a cup of the coarsest tea would make you feel intoxicated.

Good things are always short-lived. The plane began its descent, soon piercing through the clouds. The sky gradually changed from bright to gray. On the ground appeared crisscrossing streets, rivers, and villages. Looking down at the earth from this angle, I realized how narrow our usual view is—we see only trees, not the forest.

We arrived at Jinan Yaoqiang Airport. The plane slowed down and stopped steadily. There was a direct bus from the airport to Jining North Bus Station, costing 120 yuan per person, but it didn't depart until 11 a.m. Since it was only 8:30, we took the airport shuttle to the city (20 yuan per person, 40 minutes; Zeze got a half-price ticket). From there, we boarded a long-distance bus to Jining. Unexpectedly, the bus did not take the expressway but traveled on National Highway 104, taking over four hours to get there.

The trip was finally over. Over ten days, we had traveled through six cities and visited ten scenic spots. For the first time in my life, I set foot in the land of Sichuan and Chongqing. The local culture and customs, the natural beauty—all were deeply captivating and unforgettable. From the hometown of Confucius and Mencius to the capital of Bashu, the distance is about 3,000 li, and each place is still a considerable distance from our country's borders. Facing these ancient yet new cities, this beautiful and fertile land, I felt immense pride. With such a vast territory, magnificent landscapes, and rich culture, how could we not love and protect her, and contribute our sincerity and strength to her pride and prosperity!