A Chongqing Road Trip to Youyang: Folk Tunes in an Ancient Town and Flower Seas at Die Shi Hua Gu — Just Bliss!
I have a close friend who has roamed mountains and rivers, sojourned in various places, and visited over a hundred towns and cities. During a casual conversation, he said to me with deep feeling, 'Gongtan Ancient Town in Youyang is the most comfortable place I've ever been to. It’s no exaggeration to call it the most beautiful ancient town in China.' I was puzzled. In terms of fame, Gongtan is no match for Phoenix Ancient Town; in terms of development, it can't compare to Zhouzhuang or Tongli. Why would my widely-traveled friend speak so highly of its beauty?
With this question in mind, I arrived in Youyang at the tail end of May and stepped into this millennium-old town that had been on my mind. Speaking of my first impression of Gongtan Ancient Town, it wasn’t something I saw, but something I heard. Beautiful folk melodies wafted through the streets and alleys, every note seemingly tinged with nostalgia.
Those who love folk music tend to have gentle hearts. As the literary breeze of Chinese pop music, folk is a simple and pure form of expression, a return to basics and a search for one's original heart. You need to listen with your heart to grasp its essence. Gongtan Ancient Town shares these qualities. After witnessing the bustling traffic and glitzy nightlife of big cities, in this low-key, unpretentious, and gently serene town, you’ll discover a different kind of beauty in life.
Gongtan Ancient Town is not only a town perfect for sketching; it is also a city of arts, where folk music seems to have found its true home. As you wander through the streets and lanes, opening your ears, those voices—some lazy, some clear—delivered with either tender or deep tones, imperceptibly add an indescribable touch of artistic flair to the ancient town. While strolling about, it feels as if every corner of the town is filled with leaping musical notes, and at the next turn, you might just bump into a folk singer.
I heard that every weekend, three or four singers are invited to perform here. Perhaps you might run into them somewhere in the town—on the riverside boardwalk of Gongtan, in a street corner or alley, or maybe even on a boat... In any case, every weekend, folk musicians are here crooning just for you.
Someone told me that the most beautiful sight of the ancient town is in the morning after rain. At that time, a thin mist rises from the surface of the Wujiang River; together with the green mountains on both banks and the clear water below, the ethereal white fog paints a stunning ink-wash landscape. Unfortunately, the two days I visited were gloriously sunny, so I didn't get to see the scene I had imagined—walking on flagstone paths under an oil-paper umbrella. Nor did I witness Gongtan’s post-rain peerless beauty. But some journeys must leave a bit of regret, which then gives you a reason for a second visit.
The southeastern Chongqing route is not short of scenery; Youyang, Pengshui, and Qianjiang all boast their own attractions. Gongtan Ancient Town, located at the confluence of the Wujiang and Apeng Rivers, faces Yanhe County in Guizhou across the water. It is hailed as a brilliant pearl on the Wujiang River Gallery and is currently the only well-preserved millennium-old town along a major river in the world.
The flagstone streets here rise and fall, winding and deep. The Tujia stilted houses are perched on cliffs, soaring magnificently, honored as 'musical notes on the cliff'. The ancient buildings here are like artistic sculptures, treasures in the history of ancient architecture. This is also the 'Old Street' depicted in the paintings of the renowned Chinese painting master Wu Guanzhong.
The cultures of trackers, docks, salt merchants, and religion have deep roots here, bearing witness to the 1,800-year history of Gongtan Ancient Town. The ancient customs of the Tujia and Miao ethnic groups, along with folk opera, dance, and handicrafts, have all been passed down. Mr. Wu Guanzhong described Gongtan Ancient Town as 'a street of the Tang Dynasty, a city of the Song Dynasty, and the home of your grandparents.'
As a famous historical and cultural town in China and the top historical and cultural town in Chongqing, Gongtan Ancient Town is the core scenic area and a brilliant pearl of the Wujiang River Gallery, renowned for its 'peculiar mountains, grotesque rocks, emerald waters, treacherous shoals, covered bridges, towpaths, and cliff tombs.' The Qing Dynasty poet Mei Ruoweng praised this place in a poem: 'Of all the wonders of Sichuan's landscapes, this should be ranked first.'
At night by the Wujiang River, Gongtan Ancient Town seems like a world from a comic book. Red lanterns hanging high on the stilted houses, time flowing slowly here, the gurgling of the Wujiang River, the caress of a gentle breeze, and the occasional barking of dogs in the distance—all of it enchanted me. If you've lost yourself in city life, why not come to Gongtan one weekend? Slow down on the flagstone paths, pause under the stilted houses by the river and gaze into the distance, and you'll find that all of life's troubles are nothing but self-inflicted worries!
Wouldn’t you fall in love with a place like Gongtan Ancient Town?
Apart from Gongtan Ancient Town, Youyang has another newly popular Instagram-worthy spot: Die Shi Hua Gu (Stone Flower Valley), which is as beautiful as a painting. Remember the sea of purple muhly grass that flooded social media feeds last year? Yes, that’s the place. Located 95 kilometers from Gongtan Ancient Town, if you’ve come all the way to Youyang, a visit to Die Shi Hua Gu is a must-do!
Here, you’ll find stromatolites everywhere, formed 500 million years ago during the Cambrian period. Their unique shapes have an artistic feel. Now, with flowers blooming all over the park, the mysterious stromatolites combined with vast fields of verbena and galsang flowers create a masterstroke of nature—a place that seems straight out of a painting.
Different flowers bloom in different seasons here—ruby saltbush, chrysanthemums, crape myrtles—each beautiful in its own way! Right now, you’ll see vast expanses of galsang flowers and that mysterious purple ocean of verbena. The phrase 'a riot of color' doesn’t do justice to its beauty. Any random snapshot taken while walking among the flowers will dominate your WeChat Moments.
There are also many art installations in the park, like 'Train', 'Whisper', 'Passing Time', and more—perfect for photos.
If you’re lucky, you might catch a flash mob performance right at the main entrance!
Die Shi Hua Gu holds great scientific significance. Even if we don’t fully understand its mysteries, we can still explore the park and find our own moon goddess—each month of the year corresponds to a moon goddess with a unique symbol! These mysteries are something you need to experience slowly, with a calm heart.
You can also take the 'General Zipline' across a small gorge and feel the summer wind rushing through your hair.
In addition to blooming flowers, there are also stone flowers that blossomed 500 million years ago.
'Flowers on Stone' is not a made-up gimmick; it’s a real phenomenon!
Die Shi Hua Gu and the Rural Art Village are included in the same ticket and can be visited together. The scenic area provides free electric shuttle buses, so no worries about getting around.
Artists joined hands with local villagers, folk craftsmen, and inheritors of intangible cultural heritage. Over seven months, they tailored their efforts to local conditions here in Youyang, jointly creating 17 rural art pieces. Each work reflects a combination of traditional rural life and modern elements.
There are also children’s performances here. If the timing works, don’t miss their playful shows.
With flowers blooming everywhere, Die Shi Hua Gu is destined to be Chongqing’s next hot photo destination. This season, the hillsides are covered with galsang flowers waving at you, and verbena is eagerly awaiting your arrival! In such a beautiful early summer, why not plan a relaxing weekend getaway?