Traveling to the End of Southern Sichuan, a Hidden Boat Deep in the Riverbank [A Four-Day, Three-Night Trip to Qijiang]
[Travel Musings] Want to disappear with me into the misty, winding streets of Chongqing? Then come to Qijiang. 'On both banks the apes cry endlessly, a thousand boats have passed the ten thousand mountains.' In earlier years, my impression of Chongqing was elusive, cold, and mysterious. This trip to Qijiang completely changed my one-sided view of Chongqing. It turns out that within the misty, maze-like world of the Fog City, there is also a 'paradise hidden from the world.'
It can be the colorful and romantic Flower Fairy Valley, or the cool, dreamlike Ancient Sword Mountain, or the passionate Shihao Town, or the abstract and enigmatic 'Oriental Picasso.' We long to collide with art, encounter freedom, and seek to escape the summer heat in this July. So go to Qijiang, Chongqing, and find answers on the road.
1. Hengshan Flower Fairy Valley
No willow catkins rise with the wind, only sunflowers turn toward the sun. My first stop in Qijiang was directly to Hengshan Flower Fairy Valley, a place that sounds dreamy and whimsical, as if you might accidentally stumble into a fairy realm.
As everyone knows, Chongqing is the Fog City and a mountain city. 'On both banks the apes cry endlessly, a thousand boats have passed the ten thousand mountains.' In earlier years, my impression of Chongqing was elusive, cold, and mysterious. This trip to Qijiang completely changed my one-sided view of Chongqing. It turns out that within the misty, maze-like world of the Fog City, there is also a 'paradise hidden from the world.'
Hengshan Flower Fairy Valley is located in Hengshan Town, Qijiang District, known as a natural oxygen bar. With the theme 'Small Beautiful Life Paradise' and the purpose of 'creating simple happiness,' it has become the top choice for urban youth to briefly escape the hustle and bustle.
As a face-connoisseur, my first glimpse of Hengshan Flower Fairy Valley immediately attracted me with its romantic atmosphere. Over 800 mu of flower sea unfolded before my eyes, as if encountering a young girl in first love, with the air filled with the heartbeat of first love. A gentle breeze blew, and the flower sea surged with the heat wave, my restless excitement making me quicken my pace.
The scenic area is built along the mountains, with countless roads winding through it like silver jade belts set in emerald, complementing each other to form a beautiful landscape.
Under the blue sky and white clouds, a flower cart full of girlish heart stood on the green grass. The car body was surrounded by countless champagne roses and sunflowers reaching toward the sun. The front of the cart was cute and playful, romantic with a hint of playfulness, which was breathtaking. I thought this might be a love train heading for the gate of happiness! For girls who love taking photos, this is definitely a unique backdrop—pose freely and capture perfect moments in the frame.
Walking slowly along the road, July in Qijiang didn't seem as hot as expected. Occasionally a gentle breeze came, carrying the fragrance of flowers and blowing away the last trace of heat. Eye-catching sculptures appeared by the roadside, such as 'I'm waiting for you in Flower Fairy Valley,' using the sea of verbena behind as a gift, sending a final invitation to visitors.
This is the season for sunflowers and verbena to bloom—one positive and passionate, the other fresh and lovely, complementing each other and becoming the most loyal companions of this summer. The scenic area has a large green coverage, with lush grass occupying your eyes, even giving the illusion of late spring.
Inside the scenic area, there is a huge helicopter sculpture. Its bright green attempts to overshadow the grass, and its soaring posture reveals infinite dignity, as if challenging the midsummer heat.
The scenic area is very large, suitable for family outings. Coming here, you can feel the tranquility of 'the wind blowing, seeing cattle and sheep' and also experience the blend of Chinese and Western charm. People say summer scenery is extraordinary. This summer, come to Flower Fairy Valley and find the 'summer solstice yet to come' in your dreams.
2. Ancient Sword Mountain
Want to have a dreamlike coolness this summer? Then come to Qijiang's Ancient Sword Mountain. Almost every post-90s person has watched 'Chinese Paladin,' and I am no exception. That TV drama, which taught us love and hate, has faded away with our youth. However, on this trip to Qijiang, I encountered another 'Shu Mountain,' and for a moment, I felt a hazy sense of returning to Chang'an.
Ancient Sword Mountain, also known as 'Rooster Mouth,' is one of Chongqing's top ten summer resorts and one of the 'Twelve Scenic Spots of Bayu.' Meeting Ancient Sword Mountain in such a scorching July is truly not wasting this divine favor. The average annual temperature here is 18.5°C, like an air-conditioned room with a built-in humidifier—cool but not dry, making people linger.
My first glimpse of Ancient Sword Mountain attracted me with its varied Danxia landforms. The rocks here, shaped by years of weathering, present various forms—some beautiful and fresh, some majestic and steep—directly striking your senses. Any flowery language pales in front of nature's masterpiece.
Following the ancient path upward, the surroundings are lush and green, occasionally hearing the cries of apes, birds, and the sound of clear springs sliding down stone walls. Pausing to look into the distance, the layers of forest are dyed in colors, green shadows overlapping, as if the sky has dropped a green brocade, making people feel purified.
At Ancient Sword Mountain, besides appreciating the exquisite mountain itself, there is also a temple with curling incense smoke—Jingyin Temple. The ancient temple is surrounded by cliffs on all sides. If not inside it, one would be truly intimidated.
As a Buddhist sacred site in Bashu, Jingyin Temple has a history of a thousand years. The temple gate, weathered by wind and rain, shows some mottling, but the delicate carvings and exquisite design have not changed, enough to witness the temple's status.
Climbing the steps, moss covers them, and a sense of historical weight comes over you. Yet even so, the incense atmosphere of Jingyin Temple cannot be concealed. Stepping inside, there is a feeling of 'emptiness in all directions.'
Most of the buildings inside the temple are made of red brick walls, with uneven fading and even peeling, giving an authentic taste of the old temple. Although Jingyin Temple is a bit worn, pilgrims come in an endless stream. Colorful knots weigh down the big trees, creating a strong sense of peaceful years.
What catches the eye is that the scenic area also has tent camping sites—stars, grass, lake, tents—just thinking about it makes happiness well up. The tent rooms here come in various styles: natural wood low-key home style, Nordic exquisite minimalist style. Whether you are a happy mother with children or a single man or woman pursuing freedom, you can always find your perfect cabin here.
As night falls, the temperature becomes more comfortable. Lying quietly on the grass, watching the full sky of stars, surrounded by wind rustling bamboo, the shadows of Ancient Sword Mountain under the moonlight sway gracefully—content and satisfying.
3. Wang Liang's Former Residence
'In the myriad trees frost and sky red all over, the heavenly army's anger rushes to the sky.' This verse was written to celebrate the victory of the first counter-encirclement campaign in 1931. It is majestic, revealing infinite praise for this triumph. Among the distinguished contributors was Wang Liang, the commander of the Fourth Red Army, a great man forever engraved in the hearts of Chinese people. On this trip to Qijiang, I also paid homage to Wang Liang's Former Residence, adding an even deeper shade of red to this already passionate July journey.
In Zhonghua Village, Yongcheng Town, Qijiang, stands a quadrangle courtyard building quietly, like an enduring old man guarding this land. This is Wang Liang's Former Residence. At first sight, I was attracted by its simple and clean appearance. White walls, black tiles, a low-key gate with an old plaque, black background with gold characters, 'Wang Liang's Former Residence' clearly visible. Couplets on both sides complement each other, telling the heroic legend of Commander Wang Liang. Compared to Wang Liang's glorious historical stories, his former residence appears much dimmer, without excessive decoration, inspiring even more reverence.
Entering Wang Liang's Former Residence, a small courtyard greeted me with a broad view, as if I could see Commander Wang Liang studying military strategy there as a child. The gray stone bricks on the ground are arranged in patches, gradually mottling under wind and rain. Yet even so, the courtyard's original elegance remains, fully revealing Commander Wang's temperament.
The former residence is divided into three main areas: the main residence, Red Qijiang, and Wang Liang's Deeds. The layout is organized around Commander Wang Liang's life story. Wandering through, you can both feel Commander Wang Liang's brilliant achievements and glimpse details of his daily life.
First entering the main residence, the living room came into view. As simple as always, aside from a few tables and chairs, there was no other furniture. Compared to some magnificent living rooms, Wang Liang's Former Residence is truly frugal. The entire building, besides basic facilities, has no lavish decorations, making one admire General Wang Liang's incorruptibility.
Moving to the bedroom of Wang Liang's parents, there was a worn-out wardrobe and an old wooden bed. The carvings along the bed edges were vivid and lifelike, still unchanged after a century, making one marvel at the superb skills of ancient craftsmen.
In contrast, the display area for Wang Liang's deeds and Red Qijiang was much brighter. Red-brown wooden walls hung with portraits of General Wang Liang's life. A few brief summaries clearly explained his great contributions. For such a hero who sacrificed for the country, any praise is insufficient. Only when people remember his appearance is the greatest respect for the hero.
Times change, people's lives change rapidly, but hearts remain sincere. Looking at these enduring images, one's eyes can't help but moisten.
4. Shihao Town (Red Army Bridge, Red Army Cave, Red Army Martyrs' Tomb, Red Army Street)
I wonder where the wild geese from the sky go, what makes them so joyful on the long march. Speaking of the Long March, many friends feel their blood boil. As a great miracle in human history and an immortal glorious chapter of the Central Red Army, it is still passed down by word of mouth.
As people of the new era, walking on the happy broad road, it's hard to feel the hardships of the past. But on this trip to Qijiang, I came to Shihao Town, an essential stop on the Red Army's Long March. With its rich red culture atmosphere, for the first time, I truly entered the Long March and conversed with heroes, beyond textbooks.
First glance at Shihao Town, I was attracted by its unique historical flavor. Although the town is famous for red culture, it doesn't have overly flashy decorations. It is quiet and simple overall, exuding a faint red atmosphere. Walking along Red Army Street, stopping now and then, every step felt particularly heavy. Even on such a sunny day, my mood remained unsettled. Occasionally, a large memorial tower appeared; its stele weathered gradually under wind and rain, exuding a sense of historical weight. Around the memorial tower, green pines stood upright, just like the Long March spirit, evergreen all year round.
The green mountains are buried with loyal bones everywhere. Walking slowly along the path, tombstones appeared faintly in the bushes on one side—these are traces of revolutionary martyrs. Uneven stone tablets, vigorous and powerful inscriptions, in their square inches, freeze the martyrs' lives. To deeply understand the story of the Red Army and Shihao Town, the exhibition room is a must-see. On the walls, white and red, are displayed pictures of revolutionary soldiers struggling hard. The revolutionary flame is passed on; the spirit will never die.
What catches the eye is an old stone wall at the foot of the green mountain. On the wall is painted a bright red five-star national flag, with old slogans still clearly visible. In front of the stone wall, piles of broken stones, muddy river water flowing through. Even under such harsh conditions, the red flag symbolizing the Red Army spirit remains enduring, hard to ignore. Moving to the Red Army Cave, my nose felt a sour ache. A small cave made of old thatch suddenly appeared before me, forming a strong visual contrast with the surrounding green trees—bleak and barren, making one involuntarily give a thumbs-up to the Red Army soldiers.
In Shihao Town, there is also a stone-wood structure bridge, with a hip-and-gable green tile roof design and chuandou-type beams, showing the authentic ancient bridge design. It is the Red Army Bridge. Compared to traditional bridges, the Red Army Bridge carries more historical missions, witnessing the Central Red Army's Long March to Qijiang during those stormy years. It is like a mirror, reflecting ancient and modern times. Walking on the ancient bridge, you can almost hear the shouts of Red Army soldiers. In an instant, nearly a hundred years have passed like a fleeting moment, yet the old bridge remains unchanged.
5. Qijiang Museum
If time's gift to a city is the treasure of years, then the most precious part of that treasure is hidden in the museum. To truly understand a city's rise and fall, and to feel the sweet and bitter of urban life, you only need the time of a trip.
The predecessor of Qijiang Museum was Qijiang Stone Carving Art Museum. Now it has a total of five exhibition halls: the Preface Hall, Qijiang Dragon Hall, Geology Hall, History and Culture Hall, and Stone Carving Hall. At first sight of Qijiang Museum, its signboard catches the eye—an irregular stone carving sculpture comes into view, unique in shape, highly artistic, making one's eyes light up. Entering the museum, the cool gray tone perfectly interprets sophistication, and the consistently artistic attention to detail heightens interest.
The main color of the museum is gray, with plain concrete bricks matching gray walls, creating a strong modern technological feel. The semicircular ring light design adds a touch of industrial style, making one admire the designer's ingenuity. Walking slowly along the corridor, the surrounding walls display vivid pictures, bringing the origin and evolution of mankind to life, instantly adding a touch of scholarly atmosphere befitting a museum.
The museum's hall displays several dinosaur fossil sculptures, full of vitality. Even after the test of time, they no longer look as they once did, yet they cannot hide their proud demeanor. The surrounding walls are painted with scenes of primeval forests, perfectly echoing the sculptures, pushing the atmosphere to the extreme. Moving to the History and Culture Hall, the scene changes abruptly. The minimalist style disappears, replaced by neatly arranged natural wood display boards. Warm spotlights soften the entire space. Ancient books in glass cabinets remain fresh.
On the Morandi-colored walls, ancient villages appear faintly. In the hazy view, I glimpsed the Red Army Bridge of Shihao Town. These eternal paintings frozen in inches become the most precious memories in the hearts of Qijiang people. Some of these images have faded, some due to old craftsmanship cannot achieve high fidelity, but for Qijiang people, none of this matters. They are like a spark, guiding the way home for passersby.
Comparatively, I prefer the Stone Carving Hall. Those thousand-year-old objects baptized by time lie quietly there, silent but emitting a special magic that is hard to ignore. Without seeing them with my own eyes, it's hard to imagine that in such a backward and barren era, so many breathtaking treasures could have been left behind, truly eye-opening.
If an old street is a microcosm of an era, then a museum is definitely the moonlight treasure box of several generations. Once opened, it can traverse ancient and modern times, revisiting those fleeting golden years.
6. Qijiang Farmer's Printmaking Academy
Before coming to Qijiang, I had heard that it is the 'Hometown of Chinese Folk Culture.' This visit proved it well-deserved. In Qijiang, there is an art form that is hard to define. It is a shining business card for Chongqing's external exchanges, a deep local imprint in the hearts of Qijiang people, and the 'Oriental Picasso' in the eyes of the international art world. It is Qijiang Farmer's Printmaking.
Hearing the term 'farmer's printmaking' for the first time, I was puzzled. I had seen many exhibitions of various sizes, but farmer's printmaking was a first. I believe many friends, like me, are initially confused. So what exactly is this farmer's printmaking? This trip to Qijiang Farmer's Printmaking Academy certainly broadened my horizons.
Qijiang Farmer's Printmaking Academy is located on the north side of Jiulong Square. At first glance, it was unremarkable, with a modest gray marble exterior that didn't catch my eye. But as I entered, the initial boredom instantly vanished. Vivid colors leaped, constantly activating my thoughts, as if entering an abstract fairy tale world full of infinite possibilities.
The academy has four floors. The first floor is the art exhibition hall. With luck, you can encounter colorful art exhibitions. The dark red walls have distinct textures and are full of texture. Various farmer's prints of different styles are arranged together, making it hard to look away. These prints are bright in color, bold in technique, and abstract in style, easily transporting you to a fantastic multi-dimensional world.
In contrast, the second floor is even more captivating. The boutique exhibition hall here gathers the essence of Qijiang farmer's printmaking. Strolling through, you can also see exhibits from all over the world, giving a sense of artistic enrichment. The 'Miao Music Picture' here is vivid and down-to-earth, attracting countless visitors and earning widespread praise.
The third floor is the printmaking workshop. If time permits, don't miss the entire process of printmaking, from material collection to carving to printing. Each step requires full concentration and 100% dedication. The fourth floor is the training classroom. After understanding the printmaking techniques, you can come to the training room to 'show off your skills.' Once you truly engage in creation, you will personally feel the pricelessness of art. No need to worry about proportions or color matching—rely entirely on imagination and create freely, allowing art to flourish in your hands, granting the soul ultimate freedom.
At this moment, as a photographer, I wander through the corridors of the academy, feeling the free flow of prints, trying to freeze artistic moments with light and shadow. At that moment, it was as if time stood still; countless free little sprites danced wildly before my eyes, perceiving the real world in the abstract.