A Three-Day, Two-Night Trip to Qijiang: A Cool Escape Outside Chongqing City, an Art Town Full of Delicacies!
Happy times are always so fleeting; the dreamlike romance still lingers in Qijiang, unwilling to let go. With the company of loved ones, we smiled as brightly as flowers. This trip deeply showed me the beauty of Qijiang, which never failed to meet my expectations.
With eyes closed, I can still feel the romance of Huaxian Valley—the faint fragrance of hundreds of flowers shimmering like a nebula. Looking up, I recall the ancient sword-shaped peaks hanging beyond the sky, the sound of Buddhist bells entering my ears, palms together, deepening my reliance on my faith.
Stepping with a calm pace, I strolled leisurely to the window and recalled that era of raging war. It was because heroes like General Wang Liang stepped forward for us that we now have a time of peace. If given the chance, I would retrace the Long March to express my respect for the revolutionary martyrs.
From time to time, the rise and fall of prosperity in the Qijiang Museum flashes before my eyes, and the farmers' woodblock prints are so simple and friendly.
Many days after leaving Qijiang, the impression of Qijiang has been deeply engraved in my mind. Reflecting the summer firelight, I sit quietly by the louver window, through the dappled light, savoring the beauty of this trip to Qijiang again.
Warm reminder: The temperature in Qijiang urban area is comparable to that of Chongqing's main city. It is necessary to bring sunscreen, sunglasses, and a parasol. Gujian Mountain and Huaxian Valley are high-altitude areas with some bumpy and winding mountain roads (especially the nine bends featured in Andy Lau's Lost and Lonely). Friends prone to motion sickness should bring motion sickness medication to prevent discomfort from affecting your travel experience. The temperature at night in high-altitude areas is low, so you can prepare a few long-sleeved clothes to keep warm.
About the itinerary:
Day 1: Chongqing main city — Qijiang District — Check in to Howard Johnson Hotel
Day 2: (Hengshan Town) Visit Huaxian Valley's romantic sea of flowers — View the ancient sword-shaped peak of Gujian Mountain
Day 3: (Yongcheng Town, Zhonghua Village) Visit Wang Liang's former residence — (Shihao Town) Retrace the Long March
Day 4: Visit the museum — Appreciate farmers' woodblock prints
On the first day, we were warmly received by the people of Qijiang and tasted the local time-honored delicacies, Stable Lamb and Beidu Fish. Exhausted, we checked into the local Howard Johnson Hotel. The hotel was small but complete, clean and tidy, making us feel very comfortable. With such a pleasant hotel, the trip became even warmer and more enjoyable.
On the second day, by nine in the morning, we were already prepared with anticipation for Huaxian Valley. Travel should be a spontaneous departure. Outside the window, the sunlight showed a few mottled patches, and the temperature seemed not to have diminished. After a night's rest, we were full of energy and set off on the road to seek flowers and valleys.
Roaming Across 800 Mu of Flower Sea
Hengshan Huaxian Valley in Qijiang is a must-visit first stop. Hearing the name Huaxian Valley for the first time, one can't help but think of the hit costume drama The Journey of Flower broadcast a few years ago. Although the two are not closely related, this place is by no means inferior, possessing the breathtaking idyllic scenery from the drama—deep forests, falling flowers, and flowing waters.
Huaxian Valley is located in Hengshan Town, Qijiang District. In 2017, it was rated as China's best summer resort and leisure tourism destination and China's best health and wellness resort town. A small township has transformed into a famous tourist town in the blink of an eye, an incredible coincidence of time and place. The Huaxian Valley scenic area in Hengshan Town sits on a mountain over 1,000 meters above sea level, with an average summer temperature of 25°C. It is truly a natural air conditioner gifted by nature to people. July and August are also the best time for flowers to bloom in full splendor and fragrance. Besides enjoying the air conditioning, there are also gorgeous flowers to admire.
Before arriving at Huaxian Valley, you will have to face the winding mountain roads typical of a mountain city. The mountain roads here are said to have eighteen bends—count that as few! Remember to bring motion sickness medication... These mountain roads are somewhat famous; it is said that Andy Lau's movie Lost and Lonely was filmed here. Along these winding mountain roads, there are also many plants and vegetation. Through the car window, you can slowly use this sudden greenery to soothe your eyes tired from staring at screens. Take a deep breath and let go of your fatigue. Wait a moment, and you will find that everything now is worth it!
The mountain road twists and turns, and the dreamlike wonderland quietly approaches us. Before long, the car stopped, people grew excited, and I was deeply dazzled by the sea of flowers before me, staring blankly from my seat for a long time... The flower sea seemed boundless; the vast fields of verbena were so purple that they refreshed the heart. If you didn't look closely, you might mistake them for lavender. Perhaps the geographical environment here is not suitable for growing lavender, but compared to lavender, the verbena here is not much inferior—it just lacks the quiet perfume.
Verbena is also a plant with profound connotations. In Christianity, it is a sacred flower representing justice and peace. In magical stories, verbena can also counteract vampires, adding a touch of European classical color to this flower sea. The flower language of verbena represents innocence and expectation, like a pure maiden waiting for love. In the flower bushes, cute lettering reads, "I'm waiting for you at Huaxian Valley." Here, you might also find your love.
Facing the colors before us, we cheerfully stepped into this mysterious garden. Opening the car door, the refreshing and refined fragrance of flowers rushed straight to my face, and I was immersed in it. Closing my eyes, I quietly felt the unparalleled floral scent. In the distance, wind chimes sounded, giving one the illusion of being in a fairy tale world. The scenic area's designs are truly wonderful! Targeting vision, taste, and hearing, every second was seized to let the beauty of Huaxian Valley invade our young hearts.
Walking slowly along the flower-lined path, another expanse of gold appeared before us. Golden sunflowers swayed in the wind under the sun's gaze, like obedient little children. The sunflowers emitted a dazzling light, which through my pupils, shone on my calm heart, and my mood became joyful and exhilarated.
Small flowers decorated the roadside, guiding me to the verbena I had been gazing at for a long time. In the vast sea of verbena, a faint path crossed, leading to the center of the flower sea, where the most beautiful picture was captured.
The flowers in the scenic area gradually became unruly, forming various shapes in clusters. Clusters of flowers gathered into eye-catching hearts, ring after ring—this is also an unmissable internet-famous photo spot. If couples cross it together, they are sure to have a happy life together.
There are also many signs in Chongqing dialect in the scenic area, such as "So beautiful, no one can compare" and "I'm the most beautiful in the world." It's unclear whether they are praising the flowers or people, but they reflect the fun of mountain city people's speech.
The scenic area is divided into six major themed experience zones: Cute Pet Paradise, Huaxian Valley Boat Ride, Flower Slide, Huaxian Speed Slide, etc. Besides the scattered flowers, there are also cute and funny little animals, all gathered in the Cute Pet Paradise. After sightseeing, you can also choose Hobbit magical cabins, RVs, etc., to experience the natural oxygen bar.
After admiring the 800 mu flower sea of Huaxian Valley, everyone felt reluctant to leave. After a simple lunch, we set off again on the path to seek immortals and explore the peaks.
Climbing the Ancient Sword-Shaped Peak of Gujian Mountain
Gujian Mountain has always been one of the "Twelve Scenic Spots of Bayu" and has long been a popular summer resort for Chongqing locals. With dense vegetation, towering ancient trees, and shrub forests, the forest coverage rate is over 85%, making it the "Lung of Qijiang City" and a natural oxygen bar gifted by nature to the people of Chongqing. Gujian Mountain boasts unique natural scenery, rich cultural landscapes, and touching legends.
The mountain range comes from within Guizhou Province, with the highest peak over 1,100 meters above sea level and the lowest over 700 meters. Seen from a distance, Gujian Mountain resembles a sharp sword thrust into the sky by the heavens, majestic and imposing, and also like a rooster holding its head high and crowing, hence it is also called Jigongzui (Rooster Beak). The mountain is high and secluded, with verdant and straight trees. Surrounded by mountains, the annual average temperature is about 18°C, cool and inviting.
The road at the foot of the mountain winds and twists. As the car climbed along the road, Qijiang City grew smaller and smaller, and more scenery unfolded before our eyes, like a kaleidoscope. Along the way were mountain homes, farm stays, orchards, and convenience stores. This forest far from town felt like it lacked nothing.
The car stopped at the foot of the mountain, and we had lunch at a farm stay. The simple countryside dishes didn't look great, but the ingredients were all grown locally by farmers, ensuring freshness and health—a rare treat for those living in big cities.
Under the shade of the trees were scattered bits of light shadows; clearly, it was a nice day. Unknown small flowers by the path bloomed conspicuously. Tall ancient trees stood on a green lawn, and people had set up hammocks between them. Birds sang on the branches, the wind whispered softly by the ears, and such a beautiful scene was sure to let one sleep well.
Ahead was a temple. Not far away, we could hear the long ringing of Buddhist bells. Gujian Mountain is not only a perfect place for leisure and entertainment but also a sacred Buddhist site. The Jinyin Temple before us was originally called Gujian Mountain Temple, built during the early Song Dynasty from 960 to 1127. It was rebuilt during the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, and in recent years, the Guanyin Hall, Medicine Buddha Hall, and Brightness Hall were restored.
The temple's mountain gate was polished smooth by visitors. Devout men and women from far away came to worship. People say, "The Bodhisattva of Jigongzui—responsive to the distant but not the near," a saying that confirms the temple's efficacy. Stepping through the mountain gate, the temple was filled with the smoke of incense. The temple was not as magnificent as imagined, giving more of a sense of solemnity and cleanliness. Involuntarily, we bowed three times and offered three sticks of incense, praying for Buddha's blessings.
Stepping out of the mountain gate with devout faith, we felt our souls purified, and this trip was sure to be safe. With cool steps, we formally began the ascent to the summit. A stone path about 2 meters wide wound and twisted, accompanied by green branches and leaves, vaguely leading to the depths of the mountaintop. We slowly circled the "sword peak." On steep sections of the mountain trail, iron chains were set up to assist tourists. The rust-stained iron chains were polished shiny by use, connecting not only people's safety but also their faith. Lush branches and leaves filled the mountain, with dappled sunlight penetrating through to guide the way. When tired, people could rest in a pavilion nearby, and sweet spring water flowed from the mountain crevices, moistening throats and relieving fatigue.
Nearing the summit, red ribbons tied to green branches along the roadside expressed people's reliance on Gujian Mountain. With remaining energy, tourists stepped onto the final mountain gate via an even narrower path, where voices buzzed. On both sides of the path, locks of love clinked with crisp sounds, like the cries of lovers echoing in the sky. Some locks still shone with metallic luster, while others were already rusty. Men and women with the same faith would surely, like these locks of love, be together forever—even as appearances age, the vows made in youth remain unchanged.
A crowd of tourists jostled each other. On the Jigongzui observation deck, the landscapes of Qijiang City lay in full view—green mountains embracing blue lakes, ancient trees setting off houses. Though the mountain is not high, it gives a sense of overwhelming power, deserving the title "Little Mount Emei of Eastern Sichuan." The sheer cliffs and towering ancient trees made us reluctant to leave for a long time.
The back mountain was a vast sea of forests, with winding trails meandering through. This is also a small fitness area and a little paradise for couples. Along the path were ponds and wooden cabins for rest and sightseeing. One could also sit down and enjoy a few cups of tea, savoring the beauty of the mountains, each breath fresh and pure.
As evening approached, we set off on the return journey. The trees on the mountain were still lush green; without the nourishment of sunlight, they turned from emerald to dark green. The mountain forest sang at dusk, the wind brushed across our fingers and cheeks, sweeping away our fatigue, as if asking us to stay a little longer and listen to the coming night. Though reluctant, we left resolutely with anticipation for tomorrow.
The previous night, we had already arranged today's itinerary. In the morning, we visited Wang Liang's former residence, and in the afternoon, we walked the Long March to feel the legacy of the older generation of revolutionary martyrs. The drizzly rain ensured a solemn journey today.
Wang Liang was born on August 5, 1905, in Yongcheng Town, Qijiang District. Originally named Wang Huagai, he studied at the Whampoa Military Academy and spoke three languages. He joined the Communist Party of China in 1927 and participated in the Autumn Harvest Uprising on the Hunan-Jiangxi border in September of the same year. He later followed Mao Zedong into Jinggangshan, participated in the creation of the Jinggangshan Revolutionary Base, and also attended the famous Gutian Conference. After the Red Fourth Army was reorganized in Changting, Wang Liang became the commander of the First Column of the Red Fourth Army. During the reorganization in Ji'an, the 25-year-old Wang Liang was appointed commander of the Tenth Red Division. This young hero had an extraordinary life, and what is even more admirable is his spirit of tenacity, hard work, and fearlessness, embodying the Red Army spirit.
With a heart of remembrance for the martyrs, we came to the hometown of Comrade Wang Liang, Zhonghua Village, Yongcheng Town, Qijiang. A black-and-white courtyard house in the village was the general's former residence, backed by Mount Fengguan and facing Mount Laoying. In front of the courtyard, a plaque engraved with "Wang Liang's Former Residence" hung under the eaves, just as the general's achievements will be remembered for ages. His heroic deeds kept flooding my mind—killing enemies and making meritorious contributions; a true man should defend his country.
With admiration for the general and curiosity about what other wonderful stories his life held, we stepped into the "Wang Liang Former Residence" with questions.
Entering the residence, the great achievements of General Wang Liang were clearly presented before us through texts, pictures, and old artifacts. Centered on the general's deeds, the exhibition was divided into three themes: the former residence, Red Qijiang, and Wang Liang's deeds, recounting his military life. In less than thirty years, Wang Liang tread so brilliantly and fully.
Stepping into this historically rich courtyard, the most prominent items on display were a pocket watch and a fountain pen. According to the narrator, these two items had great significance. They were very precious at the time, and Wang Liang did not buy them himself; they were rewards for his victory in the great encirclement campaign. In that battle against the Kuomintang's large-scale encirclement, General Wang Liang made outstanding contributions. He led his troops to the enemy's flank, cooperated with friendly forces in a fierce attack, annihilated the entire 18th Division headquarters and two regiments of the Kuomintang army, captured over 9,000 enemy soldiers, seized more than 9,000 firearms, and captured the enemy's frontline commander Zhang Huizan alive, achieving the great victory of the Red Army's first counter-encirclement campaign. These two items were spoils captured from Zhang Huizan in that battle. Chairman Mao and Commander-in-Chief Zhu De firmly decided to award them to Wang Liang. From then on, Wang Liang kept them until the victory of the Anti-Japanese War. Today, these honors are preserved in the Chinese People's Military Museum.
In addition to the pocket watch and fountain pen, the letters Wang Liang wrote home are also well preserved in his former residence. Fighting for the country without being able to return home is the sorrow and regret of every hero who sacrificed for the motherland.
To commemorate General Wang Liang, the people of his hometown erected a monument to Wang Liang at the Qijiang District Martyrs Cemetery. In 2005, the centenary of Wang Liang's birth, the people of Qijiang spontaneously built a "General's Pavilion" on the highest peak of Yongcheng Town, Mount Fengguan, and inscribed it with carvings such as "Military achievements passed down through the ages" and "Teacher of the ages," ensuring General Wang Liang's deeds are remembered forever.
Qijiang was also an indispensable section of the Red Army's journey through Chongqing. Although the main force of the Red Army only stayed in Qijiang for seven days, it had extremely important strategic significance. In Qijiang, we once again walked the Red Army's Long March route, listening to more heroic stories.
Visiting Wang Liang's former residence is more like reviewing a history of heroes, enabling future generations to remember that red spirit and understand the hard-won peace of today.
Visiting the Museum and Appreciating Woodblock Prints
To deeply understand the culture of a region, you must visit its local museum. After visiting Qijiang for several days, it was only on the last day that we finally visited its museum, and I felt a little apologetic.
The Qijiang Museum is located in the Farm Community, Gunan Street, Qijiang District. It is a comprehensive museum showcasing the culture of the Qijiang River basin, and it is the only museum in China featuring the culture of the Liao people. It is also a popular science education base of the Ministry of Land and Resources, a Southwest experiment base of the Historical Architecture Protection Center of Tongji University, a popular science education base of Chongqing, and a humanities and social science popularization base of Chongqing.
The museum has a building area of over 3,500 square meters and an exhibition hall area of over 2,100 square meters. It displays the history, geology, and other cultures of Qijiang, turning a building into a living textbook.
Inside the museum, we learned about the origin of Qijiang District. According to "Essentials of Historical Geography for Reading History": Qijiang "is south of the county, also known as the Yelang River. It flows from Nanchuan County, also called the South River. When it reaches the county, its color is like dark silk, hence the name Qijiang." There are also many legends about the origin of Qijiang. During the Warring States period, a general fought his way to Qijiang, severely wounded. Upon waking from a faint, he asked his subordinates where this place was. None of them knew. At that moment, a small boat swayed on the river, with a flag on it inscribed with the character "綦" (Qi). So the general named the place Qijiang. After his death, his robe and bronze sword were buried in Qijiang, and it is rumored that the name Gujian Mountain (Ancient Sword Mountain) also originated from this bronze sword.
Southern China has been called the land of southern barbarians since ancient times. The most striking exhibit in the museum is the civilization of the Liao people in the Qijiang area. It is said that in ancient times, the Nanping Liao ethnic group lived in the Qijiang area. This group inhabited places full of poisonous snakes and plants in the mountains, and the people were fierce and warlike. When Liu Bang, the founder of the Han Dynasty, was enfeoffed by Xiang Yu to Shu, the land of Shu was in a mess but actually fertile. Liu Bang, along with Xiao He and others, recruited talents in Shu, then marched east to capture the three Qin regions and became the ruler of the world. Legend has it that the Nanping Liao also played an important role in helping Emperor Gaozu (Liu Bang) pacify the country.
In ancient times, the Qijiang area was also favored by dinosaurs. Scientific researchers have discovered many dinosaur fossils and footprints in Qijiang, and these ancient relics are also displayed in the Qijiang Museum.
Qijiang is a hall of woodblock prints. It has been named the hometown of farmers' woodblock prints and has been listed as a Chongqing intangible cultural heritage project.
Upon arriving at the Qijiang Farmers' Woodblock Print Institute, you will surely be amazed by the rich collection of prints. These prints are drawn from the lives of the common people, with vivid compositions and bright colors. From these prints, we can see the optimistic attitude of the Qijiang people towards life.
The prints incorporate modern elements, simple yet fashionable. They appear not only in the institute but also in the streets and alleys of the city, showing the colors from people's hearts, making the city more colorful and people's hearts warmer.
Qijiang is not only an area with profound history and culture but also a traditional food city.
The streets are lined with a dazzling array of delicacies: Ganshui rice noodles, lamb noodles, Beidu Fish, Stable Lamb... Just the aroma is irresistible.
Among them, Beidu Fish and Stable Lamb are the most famous. You'll encounter such shops everywhere on the streets. Beidu Fish became renowned in the 1980s and is famous both at home and abroad. It is made using traditional methods, with seasonings such as chili, Sichuan pepper, and garlic. After the fish is cooked, it is drizzled with a secret boiling oil. Hearing the sizzling sound, your taste buds will also come alive. This numbingly spicy taste is a favorite of Chongqing people. As eating methods evolved, versions such as pickled vegetable fish, tomato fish, and fish head soup wontons were also developed.
Stable Lamb, as a traditional delicacy, has been passed down for over 200 years. It is an intangible cultural heritage of Qijiang and an old brand of Chongqing. A single lamb can be made into a variety of dishes: braised lamb chunks, special grilled lamb chops, special grilled lamb slices, grilled lamb liver, special lamb trotters, etc., satisfying diners from multiple regions and thrilling the taste buds in summer.
My stay in Qijiang for a few days allowed me to witness its picturesque scenery, fragrant flower seas, rich and diverse regional culture, and a wide variety of special foods—all enough to occupy my entire summer. Time flies. With stars overhead and the sounds of roadside flowers, grass, and insects, the wonderful memories experienced here surge again. But I have to leave this charming little city and its beautiful scenery. Farewell, Qijiang~