Natural Beauty Irresistible, Seeking Marvels in Wuling Mountains (Part 1) — A World Heritage Journey in Wuling Mountain Region (Chongqing, Hubei, Guizhou)
Introduction: Wang Anshi wrote in 'Record of Travel to Mount Baochan': 'The world's most extraordinary and spectacular sights are often found in perilous and distant places, and therefore few people reach them. Thus, only those with determination can get there. Those with determination may not follow others blindly, but if their strength is insufficient, they also cannot reach. Those with both determination and strength, and who do not slack off, yet lack external aids in dark and confusing places, still cannot reach.'
Wonders on the Dividing Line. Wang's words that 'extraordinary sights are often found in perilous places' ring true. China's famous mountains, great rivers, World Heritage sites, 5A scenic areas, and diverse ethnic groups are highly concentrated along the boundaries of the three major topographical steps. The first step: mainly plateaus above 4,000 meters—boundary: Kunlun Mountains-Qilian Mountains-Hengduan Mountains. The second step: 1,000–2,000 meters, mainly plateaus and basins—boundary: Greater Khingan-Taihang Mountains-Wushan-Xuefeng Mountains. The third step: below 500 meters, mainly plains and hills. Taking the Wuling Mountain area on the boundary between the second and third steps as an example, it densely gathers important natural and cultural wonders such as Wulong in Chongqing, Shennongjia, Enshi, and Xianfeng Tangya Tusi Site in Hubei, Zhangjiajie, Yongshun Laosicheng Site, Furong Town-Hongshilin, and Fenghuang Ancient Town in Hunan, and Fanjingshan in Guizhou, including 6 World Heritage sites, 5 5A scenic areas, and 3 World Geoparks. According to Wang, to explore 'extraordinary sights,' one needs three conditions: 'determination,' 'strength,' and 'tools.' 'Determination' is spiritual and volitional; 'strength' and 'tools' are material, including physical ability and instruments. Now is the right time, hence the journey to the Wuling Mountains.
Wuling Ethnic Corridor. The Wuling Ethnic Corridor is a geographic and cultural channel for ethnic migration, extending southwest to northeast along the Wuling Mountains and five river systems such as the Yuan River. Its scope roughly corresponds to the historical Wuling Commandery and today's Wuling region. Mr. Pan Guangdan identified the Tujia ethnic group as directly related to the ancient Ba people. Located at the boundary between the second and third topographical steps, it is the dividing line between the Chengdu Plain and the Jianghan Plain. Some ancient Ba people merged with the Han in the Chengdu Plain, while those stranded in the Wuling Mountains developed relatively independently, forming a population dominated by the Tujia. In the Wuling Mountains, the southward migrating Miao-Yao groups and the westward migrating Zhuang-Dong groups also converged, mainly in the Miao Ridge area of Guizhou.
I. Wulong Karst, Chongqing
1.1 Karst Landform.
Karst (dissolution of soluble rocks) is a geological process dominated by chemical dissolution of water on soluble rocks (carbonate rocks, gypsum, rock salt, etc.), supplemented by mechanical actions such as erosion, undercutting, and collapse, and the resulting phenomena. In 2007, 'South China Karst' (first batch), composed of sword-shaped, pillar-shaped, and tower-shaped karst in Shilin, Yunnan; forest karst in Libo, Guizhou; and three-dimensional karst represented by natural bridges, ground fissures, and sky caves in Wulong, Chongqing, was successfully inscribed as a World Natural Heritage site.
On August 4, 2019, we departed from Leshan, driving along the Longhan and Guanglu Expressways, passing Zigong and Luzhou into Chongqing, covering more than 250 kilometers to reach Dazu Baodingshan Rock Carvings. In the afternoon, heavy rain poured, but we still visited the Beishan Rock Carvings in the rain.
The next morning after breakfast, we drove to Wulong. Passing the Yurong and Baomao Expressways, over 260 kilometers, we traversed mountains and rivers, entering the Wuling Mountains. As the saying goes, 'golden bridges and silver tunnels'—the Baomao Expressway cuts through mountains and bridges waters, showcasing China's strong engineering capabilities and determination to develop—truly exhilarating!
1.2 Wulong Limestone.
As mentioned, Wulong Karst is three-dimensional karst represented by natural bridges, ground fissures, and sky caves. The main attractions are the Tiankeng Scenic Area, Difeng Scenic Area, and Furong Cave Scenic Area, scattered in three locations. Shuttle buses connect Tiankeng and Difeng; Furong Cave is farther away.
1.3 Fairy Town.
The visitor center for Tiankeng and Difeng is located in Wulong Fairy Town. Fairy Town is a famous resort town in Chongqing. In August, it is still hot at noon, but cool at night, making air conditioning unnecessary. With the rapid economic development of Chongqing and the fame of Wulong tourism, the resort economy of Fairy Town is thriving. Numerous villas and foreign-style houses have been built on the mountain. As night falls, lights gradually brighten, covering the mountainside in splendor, reflecting the stars in the sky—a magnificent sight.
1.4 Three Natural Bridges.
In the afternoon, we took the scenic area shuttle directly to the Three Natural Bridges and descended into the Tiankeng. Tiankeng is a common type of karst landform, formed by collapse caused by water erosion of limestone. The natural bridges are remnants that have not completely collapsed. The shuttle stopped on the mountaintop beside the Tiankeng. Two paths lead to the bottom: one by elevator directly down, and one by a walking trail. We chose the trail to descend slowly. The vegetation was lush and green, with the river and lawn at the bottom faintly visible. Suddenly, the child screamed, 'What a big bee!' I turned and saw a bee-like creature fluttering among the flowers. Looking closer, it had feathers, a long beak, and was larger—wasn't it a hummingbird? It was indeed a hummingbird!
It took over half an hour to reach the bottom of the Tiankeng. The first Tiankeng is called Tiansheng Tiankeng. The bottom is flat with lush grass and dense bamboo. A small river gushed out of the ground, winding its way; a waterfall leaped off the cliff, crashing into the pit. The 'Tianfu Official Post' was hidden among the bamboo, surrounded by rugged rocks, creating a gloomy and eerie atmosphere. The 'Pillar of Heaven' stood majestically on the lawn, exuding a heroic spirit of survival against all odds. This was a filming location for Zhang Yimou's 'Curse of the Golden Flower' and Michael Bay's 'Transformers 4.' When we reached the middle of the Tiansheng Tiankeng, we saw its full view: one side gentle, the other steep, locked by Feilong Bridge and Qinglong Bridge. Feilong Bridge is the first natural bridge over the Yangshui River Gorge, also known as Toutao Bridge—tall, massive, and magnificent, known for its grandeur. Qinglong Bridge is the second natural bridge, also known as Zhonglong Bridge, named because after rain, the waterfall from the bridge turns into mist, and sunlight creates a rainbow, like a green dragon soaring upward. Passing Qinglong Bridge, we entered the Feiying Tiankeng, named because Qinglong Bridge looks like a flying eagle spreading its wings. Through Feiying Tiankeng, we reached Heilong Bridge, the lowest natural bridge on the Yangshui River Gorge, with a deep, dark arch like a black dragon winding along the ceiling. On the north side of the bridge wall, four hanging springs—Fog Spring, Pearl Spring, Yixian Spring, and Sandie Spring—display different styles, full of charm. These are the Three Natural Bridges, forming a unique geological wonder of 'three bridges sandwiching two pits.'
1.5 Longshuixia Ground Fissure.
Leaving the Three Natural Bridges, we could take a shuttle back or to the transfer station, or walk uphill to the station. Without incident, we caught the last shuttle to Longshuixia Ground Fissure and became the last group of visitors that day. Through the ticket gate and a tunnel, we reached the plank road above the fissure. Looking out from the plank road, an underground river burst out of the cliff, and under long-term water erosion, the cliff collapsed to form a huge natural cave hall. A surface river from the mountain fell from above the cliff, creating a steaming, roaring waterfall that merged with the stream from the cave hall. The plank road wound and spiraled down, bypassing the cave hall, passing through the waterfall, and extending to the bottom of the fissure. The merging rivers surged violently, cutting a fissure through the mountain.
1.6 Furong Cave.
Furong Cave is located in Jiangkou Town, Wulong, on the banks of the Furong River. Driving through mountains and gorges at low speed, we reached the Furong Cave visitor center. Visitors were sparse, mostly families, with few large tour groups. The footpath from the center to the cave had long been abandoned, overgrown with weeds, and almost everyone took the cable car directly. The cable car was twenty or thirty meters above the ground, slowly moving along the Furong River. Crossing a ridge, we saw Furong Cave in the distance. It was the hottest part of August, unbearably hot outside the cave, but as soon as we stood at the entrance, a cool breeze made us feel refreshed. Furong Cave is known as 'China's most beautiful karst cave,' and it lives up to its reputation. Inside, various stalactites, stalagmites, columns, and needles transform into 'Dinghai Shenzhen,' 'Ten Thousand Arrows Shooting Together,' 'Guanyin Sitting on Lotus,' 'Standing to Become Buddha'—countless forms, lifelike and full of charm. Under colorful lights and flowing water reflections, it became a dazzling, mysterious underground palace. One chamber after another, scenes connecting seamlessly, dazzling and overwhelming. Before we knew it, we had completed the tour and reached the exit...
II. Charming Enshi Prefecture
2.1 Enshi.
Hubei Tujia Autonomous Prefecture is home to over 20 ethnic groups, including Tujia, Miao, Dong, Hui, Mongolian, Zhuang, Yi, and Naxi, making it a typical region of ethnic diversity and the core area of the Wuling Ethnic Corridor. Enshi Grand Canyon is known as 'the most beautiful scar on Earth,' and Hefeng Duobi Gorge is called 'China's仙本那 (Semporna).'
2.2 Lichuan Tenglong Cave.
I often think of Tenglong Cave, and whenever I do, I feel terror and eeriness. Descending from Fairy Mountain, we passed Fengdu County and saw Baiyu Cave (one of China's five most beautiful karst caves). Via the Yinbai and Huyu Expressways, over 170 kilometers, we reached Tenglong Cave on the outskirts of Lichuan. Entering Hubei, it began to drizzle, and by the time we arrived, the drizzle had turned into a downpour. Ticket sales were suspended. About an hour later, the heavy rain stopped, and we could enter. Tenglong Cave consists of two main caves: the dry cave (the ancient channel of the Qingjiang River) and the water cave (the new channel of the Qingjiang River). The heavy rain caused the Qingjiang River to swell. When the water reached Tenglong Cave, it suddenly narrowed, as if choked, forming a drop with surging waves, rolling spray, and a thunderous roar. The yellow, turbulent body with a white foaming head of the Qingjiang River struggled, churned, and roared, then was swallowed by the black hole of Tenglong Cave into the underground. What a terrifying, eerie, and awe-inspiring natural spectacle—surpassing even Yunnan's Tiger Leaping Gorge! The entrance to the dry cave is enormous; it is said a helicopter could land inside. Two waterfalls cascade down the cave walls, forming the 'Two Dragons Spitting Water' wonder. Looking out from inside the cave, the tall entrance, its reflection, the 'Two Dragons Spitting Water,' the lawn outside, and the distant green hills make a perfect picture. At the entrance, a sightseeing car goes straight to the light show deep inside the dry cave; beyond that, tourists cannot explore.
The next day we stayed in Lichuan. We had booked a trek through the ancient Qingjiang River channel, but due to a night of heavy rain, it couldn't proceed. Fortunately, Lichuan is a cool city, a pleasant summer resort.
2.3 Enshi Grand Canyon.
Enshi Grand Canyon lies deep in the Wuling Mountains, also typical karst landform, including tiankeng, ground fissures, cliffs, peaks, stone pillars, karst caves, and underground rivers. It is known as a 'Natural Museum of Karst Topography' and 'the most beautiful canyon on Earth.' Currently, the open sections are mainly Yunlong Ground Fissure and Qixingzhai. Driving from Lichuan over mountains to the Enshi Grand Canyon visitor center, it was still hot after the rain.
2.4 Yunlong Ground Fissure.
Taking the shuttle to the fissure scenic spot, we found a long queue. Through the ticket gate, over a covered bridge, we descended to the plank road clinging to the fissure wall. Walking along the plank road to view the fissure, the scenery was similar to Wulong's Longshuixia Ground Fissure.
2.5 Qixingzhai.
After squeezing out of the fissure, we took the shuttle up to Qixingzhai (there is also a cable car to the summit). From Qixingzhai overlooking the fissure, the earth looked like a deep scar. Qixingzhai is named after seven easily defensible forts once built on the summit. Arriving at the starting point of the uphill trail, we rested at a fried potato stall. The owner's homemade sour chili mixed with potatoes was appetizing and gave us energy. Before leaving, we bought a large bottle of sour chili. Though we didn't have fried potatoes, mixing it with Lichuan water shield made another delicious dish.
Qixingzhai features typical mountain scenery and karst landform. Climbing along the cliffside plank road, the view widened, and the scenery grew more beautiful. Suddenly, a stone pillar grew out of the cliff, solitary and pointing to the sky, seemingly blocking our way. The path twisted, and we passed through a crevice to reach the summit. Looking down from above, the solitary pillar was close at hand; wild lilies bloomed pale yellow on its peak; Enshi pines grew slanting in rock crevices, their branches sturdy. Gazing into the distance, the winding road we came on disappeared over the mountaintop; the Qingjiang River threaded through the canyon, heading toward Enshi City; peaks on both sides rose and fell in various forms; scattered Tujia houses at the foot of the mountains harmonized with nature. The summit trail meandered through stone forests, peak clusters, and rock crevices. Walking slowly, scenes appeared one after another: 'Suspended Coffin High,' 'Cliffside Plank Road,' 'Xiangyun Torch,' 'Welcome Pine,' 'Elephant Head Mountain'... After about 2–3 hours, the sun slanted westward, and the trail descended, signaling the return trip, but this was the moment of wonder! Passing through crevices and descending steps, we heard a commotion ahead. Turning around a huge rock, our eyes lit up: a stone pillar, wider at the top and narrower at the bottom, stood like a joss stick between two peaks. In the setting sun, slanting light fell on the pillar, shining brightly. This is the iconic 'One Joss Stick' formation. Past it stood the 'Twin Towers,' two peaks resembling the Petronas Towers in Indonesia. Looking out between the two towers, Enshi Grand Canyon was cloaked in golden gauze in the sunset—truly 'so many beauties in this land!' After the Twin Towers, we saw 'Mother and Child Deep Love.' Our family of three, still reluctant to leave, started the return journey to Enshi City.
2.6 Enshi City.
Descending from Qixingzhai was very late, but we had booked a homestay in Enshi City, so we had to drive. That night we stayed near the Hongxing Meikailong (Red Star Macalline) area, ate Tujia cuisine, and had a satisfying meal with wine. The next day we visited the museum, Tusi City, and Nv'er City. In the evening, we walked to a nearby food street. We had intended to find a high-end restaurant, but a roadside stall grilling small yellow croakers caught our attention. The croakers were crispy and delicious—likely 'unprecedented and never to be repeated.'
The farthest point of this trip was Enshi City. Then we returned to Wulong, and from Wulong via Chishui back to Leshan. Ctrip, Tujia, and Amap provided great assistance.
