A Light Boat Travels a Thousand Miles on the Yangtze River

Every summer, as usual, I need to spend time with my little grandson, who is in elementary school. The child is about to enter fourth grade, and I thought I could take him on a trip this summer vacation. With this idea in mind, I began comparing travel plans. The all-knowing internet offered countless "feasibility reports," and finally, I found that taking a Yangtze River cruise to the Three Gorges was a great idea: going upstream, we could fully enjoy the magnificent scenery of the Three Gorges; and by taking a cruise, we could avoid the fatigue of travel, which was especially suitable for traveling with a child. As for which specific cruise to choose, it didn't take much effort; we directly picked the largest and newest among the dozens of Yangtze River cruise ships: the ****. The largest and newest ship naturally had the most "expensive" tickets, but the quality was satisfactory and absolutely worth the price. The tickets we booked were bundled by a travel company: starting from our hometown by train to Yichang, boarding the ship, four nights and three days on the ship to Chongqing, then a one-day tour in Chongqing, and finally returning home by train. Cruise tickets could also be booked separately. At that time, I calculated that the costs were basically the same, so we chose the bundled ticket. After completing the entire trip, we found that it might have been more suitable to buy the ship tickets separately. So we booked the tickets early and waited for the summer vacation to begin. Close to summer vacation, a classmate wanted to bring his granddaughter to travel with us. We quickly inquired and found that tickets were still available, so we booked two more. Thus, two old folks and two children set off on the journey together.

The "Harmony" train sped across the Central Plains, and the little sister and little brother, who had never met before, quickly became good friends living in harmony.

In the drizzle, the train arrived at Yichang East Station. This was supposed to be the starting point for our "group tour." Our simple idea was that once we found the tour guide at the station, we wouldn't need to worry about anything. But that's not how the story unfolded. Sure enough, a young man holding a small flag met us and then told us to queue up ourselves to get tickets for the transfer to the cruise terminal. During the process, he didn't provide any corresponding service. When some passengers asked whether dinner would be served on the cruise, he had no idea! This treatment was no different from buying ship tickets on our own, because upon exiting the station, anyone who could read could find the transfer ticket counter immediately. Yichang is the boarding and disembarkation city for most Yangtze River cruises. The transfer seemed well-organized, but could there still be room for improvement? The most important thing is to provide detailed instructions in the ship tickets or travel contract, so that tourists are not like a flock of sheep, knowing to follow the lead sheep but not knowing where they are going!

The transfer buses departed as soon as they were full, carrying passengers from different cruise ships to the terminal. We could only buy some instant noodles and bread at the station and then boarded the bus. The bus wound its way out of Yichang city, crossed back to the south bank of the Yangtze River, and entered Zigui County. Looking out the window, we saw that we were upstream of the Three Gorges Dam before the bus stopped by the river. A few tables and a few service staff represented several cruise ships. We found the registration table for the **** ship, filled out epidemic prevention forms, and then walked down to the shore where the cruise was docked. There was actually a cable car for the slope, otherwise, carrying luggage and a child would not have been fun.

As we stepped over the ship's rail, the five-star cruise revealed its five-star style. The not-too-heavy rolling luggage was taken over by the staff, who warmly led us to the buffet restaurant on the ship to rest. Hot towels and lemon tea were brought to our hands, and what made us feel even more like "VIPs" was that the staff would handle all the check-in and room assignment procedures, then escort us to our room. In the buffet restaurant, we found that dinner was indeed available on the ship, and the price was not expensive. I don't know if this is the case for all Yangtze River cruises. The tour notification did not mention it, but we should have tried to find out clearly, because boarding always happens around dinner time. No matter what means of transportation arrives in Yichang, the day is tiring. Sitting down to have a leisurely dinner can also relieve fatigue. (Children's price was half.)

The room we booked had a balcony facing outward, which we imagined would be a great viewing platform. In reality, because the cruise was always sailing in the gorges, with clouds and mist surrounding the ship on all sides, and during the day we were on shore for activities, the balcony's role was not very significant, different from ocean cruises.

Entering the room, the TV screen had already displayed a welcome interface, making us feel especially warm! We sailed on the cruise for four days but never managed to take a full picture of the ship. This one will have to do!

The cruise's itinerary included shore excursions every day, all along the route from Yichang to Chongqing. Some were not included in the ship ticket and needed to be purchased separately. Since we were traveling with children, we naturally wanted to enjoy the beautiful scenery of the Three Gorges as much as possible. How could we give up? After dinner, we booked all the optional activities along the way. Later in the evening, we attended the ship's orientation meeting, then returned to the room to rest.

We had a very good night's rest, and the ship itself also "rested" well. Large-displacement cruise ships all dock upstream of the Three Gorges Dam and don't actually sail from Yichang to Chongqing, presumably to avoid the lock fees at the dam. This morning's activity was a visit to the Three Gorges Tribal Scenic Area. After breakfast, we disembarked according to the schedule. The Three Gorges of the Yangtze, from east to west, are Xiling Gorge, Wu Gorge, and Qutang Gorge. The Three Gorges Dam is located in Xiling Gorge, so half of Xiling Gorge is downstream at a relatively low water level, and the Three Gorges Tribal Scenic Area is right there. The dam bus took us along the south bank of the Yangtze to the scenic area. In the drizzling rain, we walked along the plank road into a fairy-tale-like canyon.

Misty rain veiled the scene, distant mountains like indigo; streams babbled, green hills surrounded us; leaves blocked our view, boats meandered. The beautiful canyon scenery constantly slowed the tourists' steps. Rain soaked our shoulders and wet our feet, but it couldn't dampen our joyful mood. The little boy kept trying to capture the beauty with the small camera on his watch.

The scenic area also arranged folk performances, showcasing local marriage customs to visitors from afar, attracting crowds of tourists three layers deep.

The morning's trip ended all too quickly, leaving us wanting more. In the afternoon, we set off from the cruise again, taking a bus to the downstream side of the dam. This time, our destination was the Three Gorges Dam itself. The viewing platform was on the north bank of the Yangtze, with escalators that easily carried visitors up to the top of the platform. Only then did we realize that no matter how high we climbed or where we stood, we could only see the side view of the Three Gorges Dam and the five-step ship lock.

We walked around with the child but couldn't get the best angle to see the dam's majestic appearance, which was a pity.

Coming down from the viewing platform, we returned to the riverbank to board a smaller cruise ship that headed towards the Three Gorges Dam again. This time, we were going to pass through the famous ship lift of the Three Gorges Dam—the most meaningful optional activity. The small yacht sailed from the downstream direction towards the dam. We thought we would finally see the front of the dam, but no. The boat still avoided the center line of the river and entered the ship lift channel from the north side. When the Three Gorges Dam first started operating, all ships passed through the five-step locks, which was less efficient. Later, a ship lift was built, allowing ships of 3,000 tons or less to "cross" the dam via the lift, greatly increasing speed.

The yacht slowly entered the guiding channel of the ship lift. Tourists tried to get a good spot on the deck to see the entire lifting process most clearly.

After the boat entered the lift chamber, the rear sealing plate of the chamber closed. Soon, the huge power would lift the boat, together with the lift chamber and the water that kept the boat afloat, up to the water level upstream of the dam. On the deck, we could clearly see at least a hundred steel cables, which were counterweight devices, and four sets of key synchronizing gear and rack drives.

With a low rumble, the lift chamber began to rise steadily. It felt fast as we quickly reached the upstream side. The upstream water level was not high that day, so we ascended about 60 to 70 meters with this giant "elevator."

Exiting the ship lift, the small yacht was to take us back to our "mother ship." The day's trip was about to end. Just then, we suddenly found ourselves right behind the Three Gorges Dam—we couldn't see the front, but the back view was even more impressive! This was another benefit of visiting the ship lift; without this segment of the journey, we would never have reached this position, and we would never have seen the full view of the dam.

In the evening, the ship held a captain's welcome party. We attended politely for a while and then turned in early. The cruise, under the cover of night, set off (finally) upstream towards the great river.

Upstream of the Three Gorges Dam, due to water storage, the water level has risen, and it is said that the original magnificent scenery can no longer be seen. However, many tributaries in the gorges still retain their charming beauty. This morning, we changed to a small boat again and turned into Shennü Creek of Wu Gorge to experience the steep yet beautiful gorge scenery.

Sitting on the yacht, we looked far at the rugged peaks of distant mountains—cliffs and strange rocks, layers upon layers. Closer, the turbid yellow water surged, twisting and turning, roaring forward. We followed the creek deep into the gorge. Every turn brought a new scene, like a perfect ink-wash painting! Imagine if the water level dropped another 80 meters here—what would it look like? The yacht turned back to return. Suddenly looking up, we caught a glimpse of Shennü Peak through the clouds, revealing a hint of her beauty.

Returning to the "mother ship" for lunch, the ship continued forward into the Qutang Gorge area. On the right side, we could already see Baidicheng built against the mountain.

Baidicheng is well-known from the Three Kingdoms period when Liu Bei, defeated in battle, entrusted his son to Zhuge Liang. The Baidi Temple we were to visit is on the mountain on the north bank of the river. It is said that the Baidi Temple was built in the Eastern Han Dynasty. Originally, one had to climb a high slope, but now the water level has risen, saving a lot of effort.

Following the energetic youngsters, we quickly reached the mountaintop. Besides enshrining "White Emperor" Gongsun Shu, the Baidi Temple also contains many historical figures from the Three Kingdoms period.

At the top, there was a photo spot where one could see the famous Kuimen—the background of the old 10-yuan note (third edition). We each took photos, bearing witness to our "visit."

Turning down the hillside, we looked up and saw a "Hanging Coffin Museum." It turned out that many hanging coffins had been discovered on the cliffs along the river, but they may have been damaged over time, so a museum was built to record this existing relic.

Similarly, the scenic area arranged some cultural performances to let visitors experience local customs.

The downhill path was gentle and cool. Watching the cheerful grandchildren, the elderly felt very gratified.

The Yangtze River cruise we chose was worthy of its reputation for "quality enjoyment." The daily buffet meals varied, catering to tastes from all over the country. The children picked and chose their three meals a day based on their preferences, as if they were on a mission to taste all the world's cuisines. We felt that the dining and environment on this Yangtze cruise were no less than those of many international cruise brands we had taken on the sea before the pandemic.

The food was great, but that night's performance was even more stunning. Before the show started, the luxurious performance hall was already packed.

The staff from various positions on the cruise transformed into trained performers! The show included traditional, modern, and revolutionary elements, keeping the audience completely engrossed. The audience's warm applause was unending, for the young men and women who had worked hard all day and now sang and danced at night.

It was remarkable that the cruise line could select a group of multi-talented young people to perfectly serve dual roles as crew and performers!

The cruise moved quietly forward amid the enthusiastic applause of the tourists, entering the Chongqing area. The next morning, we were to visit a somewhat mysterious place: Fengdu Ghost City. I originally thought it was an ancient site, but upon arriving on the mountain, we found the entire hill covered with newly built scenes from "another dimension." Several local guides earnestly told stories of the "yin-yang boundary," leading half-understanding tourists to experience the afterlife (or ghost-life). In this bright world, how could such eerie atmosphere be allowed! We deliberately kept away from such vibes, walked along the mountain path to enjoy the scenery, and descended early. The tourist commercial area at the foot of the mountain was also sluggish, with many shops apparently empty.

The cruise continued towards downtown Chongqing, and our Yangtze River journey was about to end. "Wu Mountains embrace the blue sky, Ba River flows like this." In just three short days, the children traveled a thousand miles, fully appreciating the beauty of the Jingchu region along the Yangtze, observing the danger of the Bashu region, experiencing the strange beauty of the Three Gorges, and feeling the magnificence of the dam. This wonderful summer trip was very rewarding. I believe that years later, they will still remember this extraordinary July 2021!

The cruise docked at Chaotianmen Pier in Chongqing. The steep steps here were utterly primitive, so we had to hire porters to carry our luggage up to the roadside. Our included one-day tour of Chongqing began. The bus was full of tourists who had arrived in Chongqing by various means. The guide first took us to Liberation Square. The former Chongqing landmark, the Liberation Monument, was surrounded by skyscrapers, making one sigh at the changes of the times! Here, we were to ascend the city's tallest building, the Global Financial Center, for an aerial view of Chongqing.

The rainy day made Chongqing even more blurry than a foggy day. No matter how high we climbed, we couldn't see far.

At an altitude of 590 meters (relative to 339 meters), looking through rain-stained glass at the densely packed buildings in the mist, we couldn't help but marvel at the vastness of this mountain city. Of course, on a clear day or a starry night, this would be the perfect place to overlook Chongqing...

Hongya Cave and Ciqikou—judging by their names, I thought they were scenic spots. Only upon arrival did I realize they were commercial markets. Hongya Cave is famous for being built into the mountain, showcasing the mountain city's features; Ciqikou is an old street full of local specialty shops and people bustling in and out.

Whether attractions or markets, they didn't hold much appeal for us. We did a quick tour, just to say we had been there. By the roadside, we saw several ear-cleaning shops, which are rare in our hometown. The signs read: "Rumble rumble loud noise, tingling tingling so comfortable." Chongqing people really know how to enjoy themselves!

Chongqing's houses are built into the mountains, dense and crowded; Chongqing's roads wind around the mountains, narrow and twisting. Due to traffic issues, we couldn't visit some planned sites, but driving around Chongqing still gave us a good taste of this mountain city's character. Even the subway station was built inside a building, which is probably unique in the world.

In the afternoon, we came to the main and most desired destination for us and the children: Bai Gongguan (White House). Upon arrival, we found it was crowded beyond belief, making it impossible even to take a photo. We could only follow the crowd and look around, letting the children feel the cruel scenes of the reactionaries persecuting revolutionary martyrs, and the martyrs' unyielding spirit and noble sentiments in resisting the enemy. A poem carved into the brick by a martyr using a bamboo chopstick head was the best reflection of the martyrs' lofty ideals.

After visiting Bai Gongguan, our one-day tour of Chongqing was coming to an end. The hotel we stayed at that night happened to be located right next to Tanshizi Old Street. Exiting the hotel door (on the fourth floor), we found an escalator that allowed us to easily move between different levels of the commercial area. Since it was dinner time, we directly chose a Chongqing hotpot restaurant, but we ordered all non-spicy items (%&*……￥).

After dinner, we took a walk to enjoy the famous night view of the mountain city.

Tanshizi Old Street had up and down levels, about five layers (layers of roads, not buildings), crowded with people enjoying the evening. The prosperity of the big city intertwined with the leisurely mood of the residents, leaving us with an extraordinary impression of Chongqing.

The next morning, a heavy downpour hit Chongqing. A taxi took us to Chongqing South Railway Station early. Here, we were to begin our journey home. The children seemed not to have had enough fun—the outside world is always more exciting. Looking forward to next year, heading to even more wonderful places!