Chongqing Fengjie | Following the Footsteps of Poets, Exploring the Past and Present (Full Guide and Itinerary Included)
Previously, I watched 'Chang'an: The Three Thousand Miles'. When I saw Li Bai arriving at the White Emperor City at the end of the film, it was here that he left behind his timeless masterpiece.
Leaving at dawn the White Emperor crowned with cloud, I've sailed a thousand miles through canyons in a day. With the monkeys' sad adieus the riverbanks are loud, My skiff has left ten thousand mountains far away.
Suddenly, I had a thought: I wanted to go there. Chongqing Fengjie. Following the footsteps of poets, exploring the past and present.
Departing from Chengdu, the high-speed train can take you directly to Fengjie, Chongqing. So, I came here on a whim: Kuizhou. Fengjie was called Kuizhou in ancient times. With its unique landscapes and rich poetic heritage, it has been a land of poetry. Li Bai, Du Fu, Liu Yuxi, Wang Shipeng, Lu You, and other poets from various dynasties created thousands of poems here, earning it the reputation of the "City of Poetry" since ancient times.
Contemporary renowned scholar Yu Qiuyu wrote: "Down the Yangtze River, the starting point of the Three Gorges is the White Emperor City. This beginning is truly splendid." "It seems that those who set out from the Three Gorges, whether male or female, are eccentric. They all stir up some whirlpools, cause some collisions. They all have a bit of rebelliousness, and they rebel in a magnificent and astonishing way. None of them regard their hometown as the final destination, just like the water of the Three Gorges striving with all its might to flow in all directions. The Three Gorges is destined to be a restless abyss. With its force, who knows what shape it will shape the land that bears it?"
Beside the magnificent Kuimen, beneath the calm river, the old city of Fengjie sleeps peacefully. Before my eyes now is a brand new county town of Fengjie, stretching and extending on the slope between Baota Ping and Sanma Shan.
On the first day in Fengjie, we first went to the Kuizhou Museum. Understanding a city begins with its museum.
Fengjie has a long history and splendid culture. 130,000 years ago, the "Fengjie people" of Xinglong Cave created the earliest carved artwork; the pottery shards unearthed at the Yufupu site, the oldest in Chongqing, prove that 8,000 years ago, the people of the Three Gorges took steps toward civilization; the Laoguanmiao culture is the earliest named Neolithic archaeological culture in the western gorge area (west of Qutang Gorge), and it is the "Noah's Ark" of humans avoiding flood disasters 4,000 years ago.
The museum's exhibition theme is "Kuimen, the Mightiest Under Heaven." There are three exhibition halls: one for the culture of the Three Kingdoms, one for poetry culture, and one for gorge and river culture.
Here are some of the museum's treasures I would like to introduce to you. The carved ivory of a stegodon: dating back 130,000 years. It is the earliest known consciously carved work by humans and provides important academic significance for studying the origins and lifestyle of East Asians.
Jade pendant in the shape of a Kui dragon: It was unearthed at the Yong'an Town site in Fengjie in 2005. The dragon is depicted with its head lowered and body bent, carved on both sides. There is a hole on the dragon's body for stringing, suggesting it was part of a set of ornaments. Kui dragon patterns are commonly found on bronze vessels from the Shang and Zhou dynasties. The Kui dragon was initially a mysterious and formidable totem, and by the Spring and Autumn and Warring States periods, it was also used to symbolize gentlemen and virtuous people.
The ancient city of Fengjie, Kuizhou, was also the location of the Kui State during the Spring and Autumn period. It provides valuable material objects for the study and inheritance of Kui culture. Bronze tripod: It is the largest Warring States bronze tripod found in the Three Gorges area to date. It fully embodies the majestic and dignified momentum of Chu culture and its exquisite casting craftsmanship, and is also a symbol of the status and class of the nobility.
Iron chains for locking the river: Located on the riverbank at the mouth of Qutang Gorge below the White Emperor City. These two iron pillars are actual war relics from 800 years ago. They were erected by the famous Song Dynasty general Xu Zongwu during the resistance against the Mongols, serving as historical evidence of the long tug-of-war between the Song and the Mongols beneath the White Emperor City.
At the age of 59, Li Bai set out from Kuizhou, sailing eastward by boat, and wrote "Leaving at Dawn the White Emperor City." Du Fu lived in Kuizhou for one year and nine months, composing over 430 poems, accounting for one-third of his extant works. This includes "Climbing the Height," written in Fengjie and hailed as the best seven-character regulated verse of all time.
Liu Yuxi pioneered the Bamboo Branch Songs here, with one particularly famous piece created in Fengjie.
White Emperor City · Qutang Gorge | Kuimen, the Mightiest Under Heaven
Fengjie has a long history and culture, and is also home to world-famous scenic spots like White Emperor City, Qutang Gorge, and Kuimen.
It's said that the most beautiful part of China is the Yangtze River, the most beautiful part of the Yangtze is the Three Gorges, and the most beautiful part of the Three Gorges is Kuimen.
Kuimen, also known as Qutang Pass. High mountains on both banks tower over the river, forming the gateway through which the Yangtze enters the Three Gorges from the Sichuan Basin. The high mountains on both sides of Kuimen are called "White Salt Mountain" to the south and "Red Armor Mountain" to the north, rising abruptly from the ground, reaching into the clouds. Near the river, the cliffs stand as if cut by a knife, like a natural gate, facing each other across the river.
The starting point of the Yangtze Three Gorges is at the White Emperor City · Qutang Gorge scenic area in Fengjie, where you can see the scenery featured on the 10 yuan note. It is the best place to view "Kuimen, the Mightiest Under Heaven."
Entering the scenic area and crossing the covered bridge, you arrive at White Emperor City. White Emperor City is located on White Emperor Mountain on the north bank of the Yangtze River at the mouth of Qutang Gorge. Originally called Ziyang City, it was built by Gongsun Shu at the end of the Western Han Dynasty.
It leans against high mountains, surrounded by water on all sides, with many scenic spots and historical sites. There are the White Emperor Temple, a forest of steles, Star-Gazing Pavilion, River-Viewing Tower, Three Gorges hanging coffins, Daxi cultural site, etc., all worth savoring slowly.
White Emperor City has witnessed countless upheavals and changes in the landscape, and has also seen the rise to fame and good fortune of many great men. During the 12 years when Gongsun Shu proclaimed himself emperor here, wars raged everywhere, yet White Emperor City remained peaceful.
Li Bai wrote the world's fastest poem here: "Leaving at dawn the White Emperor crowned with cloud, I've sailed a thousand miles through canyons in a day." Du Fu wrote the world's most regulated poem here: "The boundless forest sheds its leaves shower by shower; The endless river rolls its waves hour after hour." Liu Yuxi wrote the world's most romantic poem here: "On one side of the sun there comes the rain; you say the sun is shining but now it's raining."
Qutang Gorge | Deep Boat Tour
Qutang Gorge starts from White Emperor City in Fengjie County in the west and ends at Daxi Town in Wushan County in the east, with a total length of 8 kilometers. It is the shortest, narrowest, and most majestic and precipitous of the Three Gorges.
Inside the gorge, the White Salt and Red Armor mountains face each other across the river, rising over 1,200 meters, like a natural gate, creating the world-famous majestic spectacle of "Kuimen, the Mightiest Under Heaven."
Taking the Red Armor No. 6 boat tour and looking up at Kuimen gives a different feeling compared to overlooking it from White Emperor City. Along the way, you can see ancient plank roads, bellows hanging coffins, cliff carvings, and Red Armor Tower.
When you reach Red Armor Tower, the boat stops and you can disembark for half an hour to visit the Red Armor Tower ancient fort and the monkeys on the ancient fort.
The Qing Dynasty poet Zhang Wentao once lamented: "Gorge rain drizzling all day long, my skiff truly falls into a painting; even with ten thousand delicate brushes, it's hard to depict Qutang's mountains on both banks."
[Boat Information] Boarding Red Armor No. 6 at Kuimen Impression: departure at 12:30 noon; boarding at Baota Ping Tourist Pier: 13:00, picking up passengers midway. Ticket: 80 yuan/person. Route: Kuimen Impression - Baota Ping Tourist Pier - Qutang Gorge - Ancient Elephant Hall Jiangxia Ferry (or Baota Ping Pier) - Kuimen Impression.
"The Summit of the Three Gorges," at an altitude of 1,388 meters, is the highest point of the Yangtze Three Gorges. It originates from a line in Du Fu's "Ten Quatrains on Kuizhou Song": "Red Armor and White Salt both pierce the sky, lanes and alleys wind around to the mountaintop."
The scenic area is located on the top of Red Armor Mountain, above Kuimen. It stretches over 10 kilometers, from Zuofang Cao in the north, overlooking White Salt Mountain to the south, facing White Emperor Poetry City to the west, and bordering Wushan Airport to the east.
The summit of the Three Gorges is also inextricably linked to music. More than 4,000 years ago, "Kui the Music Master" artisticized the sounds of nature and human labor, creating elegant temple music. This place is also one of the birthplaces of Chinese music.
When we went, the weather was not very good. It seemed misty and overcast, with occasional drizzles. But even so, knowing the results might be disappointing, we were still willing to carry our heavy equipment and climb to the summit, panting heavily.
Life is like such a practice. And when we stood at the summit, waiting quietly, the distant sunlight pierced through the thick clouds and mist, just like the Yangtze River water, striving with all its might to flow in all directions, penetrating the earth and mountains, creating this "Kuimen, the Mightiest Under Heaven."
[Tips] There is now a cable car here. The cable car goes from Shimiao to Kuigu Square. After getting off the cable car, you still need to walk for a distance to reach the observation deck. There is also the scenery from the 10 yuan note here.
[Ticket Info] Ticket: 20 yuan/person. Round-trip cable car: 80 yuan/person. Round-trip sightseeing car: 30 yuan/person.
If visiting White Emperor City and Qutang Gorge during the day sparked countless imaginations about the past and present, and took you on a journey through poems to the summit of the Three Gorges, then the evening live performance "Return to the Three Gorges" directed by Zhang Yimou projects these imaginations scene by scene before our eyes.
"Return to the Three Gorges" uses classical Chinese poetry as its main theme, set against the backdrop of Kuimen, Qutang Gorge, and White Emperor City. With heaven and earth as the stage and mountains and water as the screen, it allows us to experience the magnificent landscapes of the Yangtze Three Gorges, the unique local customs of the Bayu region, and the profound cultural heritage of Poetry City Fengjie in a dreamlike poetic atmosphere.
Chinese culture has a long history; the Bayu region is blessed with exquisite scenery. Over millions of years, the mighty Yangtze River has flowed eastward, shaping the breathtakingly majestic and perilous Three Gorges; over two thousand years, the sun and moon have risen and set, and countless literati have come to Fengjie, their thoughts surging, freely wielding their brushes, forging the enduring "Chinese Poetry City."
If you want the most spectacular scenery, the Three Gorges are the best. When Kuimen opens, poems descend from the heavens. Under this scene and feeling, the stars and moon are close, and the landscape accompanies us. Arriving at the starting point of the Three Gorges, the holy land of poetry, standing at the mouth of Qutang Gorge and on the head of White Emperor City, under the starry sky of our homeland, with a poetic heart under heaven.
Listen, Li Bai, Du Fu, Liu Yuxi, Su Shi... are reciting poems and composing verses here. [Performance Time] 20:00 to 21:00 every night [Ticket] List price 200 yuan/person, online booking is more favorable at only 180 yuan/person.
As night falls, you can always see many people cooling off by the river, some simply soaking in the water to escape the heat. What a wonderful life atmosphere by the river! We took the Red Armor No. 6 night cruise to tour the Poetry City, feeling the river breeze at night, observing Fengjie on the shore, and experiencing the cool night scenery of the Poetry City.
[Ticket] Sunday to Thursday: 30 yuan/person; Friday to Saturday: 50 yuan/person [Departure Time] Every night at 20:00.
Fengjie Self-Driving Route | Xinglong
Another must-visit place in Fengjie is Xinglong. Xinglong Town has a subtropical monsoon climate; the annual average temperature is 12.3°C. You can see how cool it is here, making it a deserved summer resort.
The famous Tiankeng (Heavenly Pit) and Difeng (Ground Fissure), the Dry Kuimen, and the Jinfeng Cloud Sea are all along this route. There are also dozens of attractions such as the Three Gorges Tiankeng Rural Park, Daping Forest Park, and Longqiao River. The best way to explore is definitely by self-driving. This loop line has camping bases, flower seas, forest parks, summer resort homestays, etc. You can both enjoy natural wonders and relax your body and mind.
Original Ecological Summer Resort Hidden Gem | Longqiao River
I didn't expect Chongqing to have such a cool original ecological summer resort: Longqiao River, located in Fengjie, Chongqing, with an average summer temperature of around 25°C. As soon as you enter the scenic area, the temperature drops significantly, cool and comfortable.
There is the longest underground river discovered in the world so far. The entire scenic area is truly peaceful, with no dense crowds of tourists. You can fully enjoy the private paradise gifted by nature. Clear streams, waterfalls, karst caves, natural bridges, canyon landscapes...
It is hidden in the lofty mountains of Longqiao Tujia Ethnic Township, at an altitude of about 1,500 meters. The forest coverage rate is as high as 87%. It has four distinct seasons and is a typical peak-cluster canyon landform, with beautiful, secluded, strange, and steep landscapes. Along the way, mountains and rivers complement each other, vegetation is rich, the air is fresh, and the river is clear.
At the natural bridge, you can take a bamboo raft, which is also a flowing experience. It takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to walk the entire route slowly while playing and taking photos. Except for a short downhill staircase at the entrance, the path is mostly flat, so it won't be too strenuous even for the elderly.
[Location]: Xinglong Town, Fengjie County, Chongqing (Close to Xiaozhai Tiankeng and Three Gorges Original Village, you can visit them together) [Opening Hours]: 8:30 am - 7:00 pm [Tip] If you want to explore the caves along the way, it is recommended to bring a light long-sleeved shirt. There are few shops inside, so it is advisable to bring water and extra snacks. If you plan to play in the water, wear comfortable sandals. Xinglong Town is about a 15-minute drive from Longqiao River.
Jinfeng Cloud Sea | Scenery You Can Pick Up on the Self-Driving Route
Jinfeng Mountain is located in Xinglong Town, Fengjie County. It is named for its peak resembling a golden phoenix. With an altitude of over 1,900 meters, it is the highest point of the Fengjie Tiankeng and Difeng scenic area. Even more astonishing, on the land stretching over 30 kilometers, there are more than 1,000 similarly shaped peaks, resembling the breasts of a beautiful woman. Therefore, they are called "Ten Thousand Breasts Peak Cluster," earning the reputation of Chongqing's Wanfeng Forest.
The reason it's called Jinfeng Cloud Sea is not only because of the unique topography but also because after rain, clouds and mist linger among the mountains, and you can often see a sea of clouds. This also makes it a famous place in Chongqing to view the sea of clouds.
Such a beautiful place has not yet become a specialized scenic area, so there is no entrance fee. It's like a freebie of stunning scenery picked up on a self-driving trip.
The beauty of Fengjie is truly worth discovering with our hearts.
Three Gorges Tiankeng Rural Park
Here, the altitude is 1,300 meters, the forest coverage rate is 80%, and the average summer temperature is below about 25°C. The negative oxygen ions per cubic centimeter reach 1,300.
As one of the few summer camping bases in Chongqing, the mountain life at the Tiankeng campsite has already begun here.
Immersed in the cool nature, listening to insects and birds, starting the camping time, enjoying the 23°C coolness.
There are many entertainment projects in the Three Gorges Tiankeng Rural Park, such as the Tiankeng cliff swing, Tiankeng suspension bridge, etc., all thrilling and exciting. There are also parent-child projects suitable for children, like the pet paradise, sand paradise, and carousel.
[Transportation] Address: Group 8, Xinglong Town Residents' Committee, Fengjie County, Chongqing Self-driving: Navigate to "Three Gorges Tiankeng Rural Park" Bus: Take buses 301, 303, or 602 from Fengjie High-Speed Rail Station to Guoping Bus Station. From Guoping Bus Station, take a bus to Xinglong Town (Sanjiaoba) to Xinglong Town Bus Station. From Xinglong Bus Station, take the Three Gorges Tiankeng Rural Park shuttle bus or a taxi for 2 km to reach the Three Gorges Tiankeng Rural Park.
Daping Forest Park | Cool Off and Daydream
It is another free summer resort in Xinglong. The average summer temperature is only about 20°C, with a fresh natural air conditioner.
Upon entering the forest park, you are greeted by towering trees. Sunlight filters through the leaves, falling on hammocks between trees. Cows roam freely. What a pleasant afternoon.
Many people cool off under the trees: young people, the elderly, and children can all find their own space here. Napping, picnicking, swinging in hammocks, enjoying a slow life—this is the best mode to start here.
Three Gorges First Village | A Less-Crowded Spot to Enjoy White Emperor City and Qutang Gorge
"Three Gorges First Village" is located in Three Gorges Village, Yongle Town, Fengjie County, Chongqing, about 20 km from Fengjie County town. It faces White Emperor City across the river. Naturally, it has become a less-crowded spot to enjoy White Emperor City and Qutang Gorge.
Here you can taste the local cuisine of the Three Gorges countryside, such as Qutang rural chef dishes and Qutang Orange Garden hotpot, and experience the original pastoral landscape.
With the magnificent landscapes of the Three Gorges as the attraction, poetry as the medium, the village as the foundation, poetic countryside as a feature, cultural leisure experiences as the focus, and dining and accommodation as the core, that is the "Three Gorges First Village."
Generations of Intangible Cultural Heritage Food | Zhuyuan Guzi Chicken
When in Fengjie, you must try the traditional local cuisine passed down through generations: Guzi Chicken (䀇(gǔ)zi ji). It originated in Zhuyuan Town, Fengjie County, Chongqing. It is made using a special earthenware pot fired by local folk kilns.
It is made with aged bacon and salted pig trotters smoked over high-mountain pine firewood, and free-range farm chicken, steamed in a special Guzi pot for four hours. During the entire process, not a single drop of water is added; the ingredients are cooked solely by steam from the small holes in the Guzi pot.
The soup is crystal clear, the chicken is tender and delicious, with a strong and delicious smoked flavor, fatty but not greasy, lean but not dry.
The production technique of Guzi Chicken has been recognized as a Chongqing municipal intangible cultural heritage. It is a must-eat dish when visiting Fengjie.
The restaurant we went to is said to be the most authentic, with the chef's skills passed down through generations. If you want to eat Guzi Chicken, you need to order in advance because the production process is time-consuming; you might not get it if you order on the spot. There are also steamed beef with rice flour, leaf jelly, matsutake mushrooms, garlic spare ribs, etc., all very delicious.
Location: Kuimen Impression Zhuyuan Guzi Chicken Flagship Store (160 meters east of the intersection of Shicheng West Road and Haicheng Road)
Tujia Traditional Food | Hanging Pot Hesha
"Hanging Pot Hesha" is a traditional Tujia specialty food. Since Xinglong Town in Fengjie borders Taiyanghe Township in Enshi, Hubei, and is surrounded by Tujia townships, you can naturally taste Tujia traditional cuisine in Xinglong Town.
Hesha, also called lazy bean dregs or lazy tofu, is made from soybeans and is relatively simple to prepare. It's much easier than making regular tofu, so it's called lazy tofu. Despite its "lazy" name, Hesha is highly nutritious and delicious, melting in your mouth, suitable for both the elderly and children. Tujia people particularly love this food, even to the extent of saying, "Use chili as salt, celebrate New Year with Hesha." This shows how much they cherish it.
Hanging Pot Hesha is served in a hanging pot: one compartment contains Hesha, another contains old duck and radish soup, and another contains crispy fried potatoes. By the way, the potatoes here are really tasty. Besides these, there are various side dishes, both meat and vegetable, filling the entire table.
The best part is that it costs only 30 yuan per person, and all dishes can be refilled unlimitedly. We were amazed! It's such a great deal! If you have the chance to visit Xinglong Town in Fengjie, don't miss this super affordable and healthy Hanging Pot Hesha.
Street Food Found Everywhere | Baomian
It was only when I arrived in Fengjie that I learned the word "Baomian." In Sichuan, it's called Chaoshao; in Fujian, Biang; in Guizhou, Huntun; in Jiangxi, Wonton; and here, in Fengjie, it's called Baomian.
Ancient Chinese believed this was a sealed bun without seven openings, so it was called "Hundun" (chaos). Following Chinese character formation rules, it later became "Huntun" (wonton). People in Fengjie love it; you can find Baomian in every street and alley. It is often paired with "Gege"—traditional mini steamers: steamed pork ribs Gege, beef Gege... served with Baomian.
Qutang Manwu (Qutang Leisure House) | Original Ecological Food in the Mountains
Qutang Manwu is a ten-minute drive from the Summit of the Three Gorges. Located on the mountainside of Kuimen on the north bank of Qutang Gorge, it offers an excellent view and has its own orchard. It is a distinctive homestay where you can stay overnight and enjoy original ecological food.
We stopped here for a rest and meal. Most of the vegetables we ate were grown here. The chef's skill was remarkable, preserving the original freshness of the food. After the meal, we could sit in the bookhouse here. If oranges are in season, you can also pick them.
Accommodation in Xinglong
If you prefer comfortable and convenient accommodation on the Xinglong self-driving route, then a hotel is certainly a better choice. We found this hotel, which exceeded my expectations. It is luxurious and grand, built to four-star standards.
It integrates accommodation, dining, and meetings, with large banquet halls, Chinese dining rooms of various styles, a deluxe western restaurant, a lobby bar, etc. The rooms are spacious, and a buffet breakfast is provided.
There are also billiards and table tennis rooms, a gym, and an outdoor rubber basketball court. There are two parking lots, so parking is convenient. And the price is not expensive.
Because it's close to the town, shopping at nearby supermarkets is very convenient.
Location: Xinding Hotel is located in Shiru Village, Xinglong Town, within the national scenic area of Tiankeng Difeng, Fengjie County, Chongqing.
Living in a 22°C Summer | Light Camping
If you like camping, you can drive from Xinding Hotel to here, about 17 minutes away. Amidst Chongqing's high temperatures of over 40°C, I never expected to find such a cool place, even feeling a bit cold at night. No air conditioning, yet we covered ourselves with two thin quilts. This is a 22°C summer. Surrounded by forests, the air is fresh, cool, and pleasant.
No wonder many locals are willing to spend a weekend here camping, enjoying the coolness, and savoring mountain cuisine.
In the evening, we sat around a bonfire with a few friends chatting, while a group of people danced around the bonfire. How delightful! Looking up at the starry sky, looking down at friends.
At night, lying in a tent, listening to the chirping of insects, it was the best lullaby. Location: Group 2, Qingquan Village, Xinglong Town, Fengjie County, Chongqing.
Itinerary:
D1: Take the "Red Armor No. 6" night cruise of Poetry City. Stay at: Kuizhou Hotel. Eat at: Zhuyuan Guzi Chicken Flagship Store.
D2: Kuizhou Museum → White Emperor City · Qutang Gorge → Qutang Manwu → Summit of the Three Gorges Scenic Area → Return to the Three Gorges. Stay at: Kuizhou Hotel. Eat at: Qutang Manwu, Three Gorges Specialty Fresh Fish Restaurant.
D3: Three Gorges Tiankeng Rural Park → Daping Forest Park → Longqiao River → 22°C Summer. Stay at: 22°C Summer. Eat at: Hanging Pot Hesha, 22°C Summer.
D4: 22°C Summer → Jinfeng Cloud Sea → Three Gorges First Village. Stay at: Kuizhou Hotel. Eat at: Kezhouji Theme Restaurant.
D5: Red Armor No. 6 [Deep Tour of Qutang Gorge] → Return.
Transportation:
[By Air] You can fly to Chongqing or Wanzhou first, then take a high-speed train to Fengjie. [By Train] You can take a high-speed train directly to Fengjie Station, or first go to Chongqing North and transfer within the station to Fengjie.
