Half Sea, Half Desert—A 9-Day, 8-Night Independent Trip to Dubai and Abu Dhabi, UAE in January 2018
Written in late spring and early summer of 2020.
The beginning of 2020 was anything but ordinary. While everyone was immersed in the anticipation of another Spring Festival, an unexpected COVID-19 pandemic swept through like a flood of beasts. A virus so small it is invisible to the naked eye turned the seemingly powerful human world upside down. This is not just a scene from human imagination or movies; it unfolded before our eyes at the start of 2020.
Masks, protective suits, goggles, ECMO... These once obscure terms instantly became trending topics. To 'suffocate' the virus, roads, cities, and countries were locked down. Streets that should have been bustling with traffic were empty, as if the world had pressed the pause button, and the vibrant colors solidified into a silent black and white. Perhaps nature is reminding humanity in such a resolute way that it's time to stop and reflect, to see what we have done to the world, and to clear the debts we owe.
It is said that since human activities have significantly decreased, the world has slowly begun to restore its former self: animals leisurely roam the streets, heavily polluted rivers have become clear enough to see fish, the persistent haze has cleared, and the distant view is exceptionally sharp... This pandemic is a disaster for humanity, but for nature, it is an opportunity to catch its breath. Hopefully, this wake-up call will greatly enhance humanity's reverence for nature, encouraging us to protect the environment, cherish the present, treasure the peaceful times, and appreciate everything we have. Only after experiencing pain, helplessness, and despair can we understand the value of returning to a normal life. Only after being confined at home can we better savor the journeys we once took. Every escape is precious.
-------------------------------------------------- Gorgeous dividing line ----------------------------------------------------------
This time, I want to reminisce about my trip to the Arab world: the renowned Dubai and Abu Dhabi in the UAE. The label of a wealthy nation, the legend of luxury cars and gold everywhere, had long made me crave this exotic land.
The annual winter vacation is either spent in the north experiencing the ice and snow that the south lacks, or in a warm tropical place (like the UAE) to escape the cold. Coincidentally, on December 19, 2017, China and the UAE exchanged notes to include holders of ordinary passports in the visa-free scope. The amendment took effect on January 16, 2018, making the UAE the 11th country to mutually exempt ordinary passport visas with China. Such a good visa-free policy would be a waste if not seized immediately! So naturally, the UAE became our winter independent travel destination in early 2018.
This is a magical country, born in an endless desert, yet it has created many world records: the Burj Khalifa is the world's tallest skyscraper; Palm Jumeirah is the largest artificial island; The Dubai Mall is the largest shopping mall; the Dubai Fountain is the largest musical fountain; the Emirates Palace in Abu Dhabi is the only 7-star hotel; Ferrari World is the largest indoor theme park; and the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is one of the world's largest mosques. This is also the dreamlike legend of 'One Thousand and One Nights,' the sandy battlefield for cool car stunts in 'Fast & Furious 7,' and the place where Tom Cruise made his heart-stopping jump from the world's tallest building in 'Mission: Impossible – Ghost Protocol'...
For Dubai, Emirates Airlines was the first choice, with direct flights from Shanghai on an A380, including taxes at 4,387 RMB. The flight is quite long: 10 hours outbound and 8 hours return. Fortunately, the aircraft is large, with a screen behind each seat for games and movies to pass the time.
We changed hotels four times, mainly to cover various types of accommodations according to our itinerary. On the first night, we chose a serviced apartment near Dubai Marina, accessible by metro. The second night was the highlight: Atlantis, The Palm. Then we stayed three nights each in a five-star hotel in Abu Dhabi and a three-star hotel in downtown Dubai.
We booked the following on Ctrip: dinner at the Al Muntaha restaurant in Burj Al Arab, a helicopter tour over Atlantis, dinner at the Emirates Palace in Abu Dhabi, and tickets to Ferrari World and Dubai Parks and Resorts. On Qunar, we booked a desert safari package.
Here is the detailed 9-day, 8-night itinerary:
Our group consisted of four adults and one child: our family of three, plus my aunt and uncle. The total cost per person was around 14,000 RMB.
Day 1: Shanghai → Dubai → Dinner at Burj Al Arab
Our outbound flight was at 6:15 AM. By 3 or 4 AM, we were already excited, like we had taken a shot of adrenaline, and arrived at Pudong Airport.
One notable thing about Emirates is the in-flight WiFi, which is claimed to be available during the flight: 2 hours of free 20MB data, then 9.99 USD for 150MB and 15.99 USD for 500MB. Actually, 20MB of free data is enough to post a show-off WeChat moment at 30,000 feet.
However, it turned out not very useful, because you will be surprised to find that some areas are not covered by communication satellites, and our plane seemed to be surrounded by such areas. Anyway, one of my WeChat moments never got sent from takeoff to landing, so my show-off plan failed completely. But maybe with better luck, it could have been sent.
After landing, we went to the metro station to buy Nol silver cards (basic cost 25 AED per person, including 9 AED card fee). Later, we topped up 60 AED per person, which was enough for the entire trip.
The Nol card can be used on the metro and buses. When taking the bus, you must tap the card when boarding and alighting; otherwise, the maximum fare for that route will be deducted. Don't ask me how I know.
My advice: take the metro when possible, use taxis if the metro doesn't go there, and try to avoid buses as you may have to wait a long time for the next one.
[Dubai Metro Operating Hours]
Saturday–Wednesday: 6:00 AM – midnight
Thursday: 6:00 AM – 1:00 AM (Thursday in Dubai is like a small weekend, similar to Friday in China)
Friday: 1:00 PM – 1:00 AM
For reference, here are important facilities and attractions near each Red Line station:
[Rashidiya] International City; Dragon Mart
[Airport Terminal 3] Airport Terminal 3 (Emirates hub)
[Airport Terminal 1] Airport Terminal 1
[Deira City Centre] Deira City Centre Mall
[Union (interchange)] Bus to Sharjah; Al Ghurair City Mall; Dubai Creek
[Khaleed Bin Al Whaleed (interchange)] Burjuman Center
[Al Jafiliya] Dubai Immigration
[World Trade Centre] Dubai World Trade Centre; Jumeirah Mosque; Jumeirah Public Beach
[Emirates Towers] Emirates Towers; DIFC; The Gate Village
[Financial Centre] DIFC; The Gate Village
[Burj Khalifa / Dubai Mall] Dubai Mall; Burj Khalifa; Armani Hotel; Souk Al Bahar; City Walk
[Business Bay] Safa Park
[Mall of the Emirates] Mall of the Emirates; Burj Al Arab; Souk Madinat; WILD WADI
[Sharaf DG] Al Barsha
[Dubai Internet City] Dubai Internet City; Knowledge Village; Palm Jumeirah; Atlantis, The Palm
[Nakheel] Dubai Media City; American University of Dubai
[Dubai Marina] Dubai Marina Mall; The Walk at JBR
[Jumeirah Lakes & Towers] Dubai Marina Mall; Jumeirah Lakes & Towers
[Ibn Battuta] Ibn Battuta Mall
Green Line stations:
[Salah Al Din] Reef Mall; Fish Roundabout
[Union (interchange)] Bus to Sharjah; Al Ghurair City Mall; Dubai Creek
[Baniyas Square] Naif Square; Murshid Bazaar; Dubai Creek; abra station
[Palm Deira] Dubai Fish Market; Gold Souk; Mobile Phone Wholesale Market
[Al Ras] Gold Souk; Spice Souk; Murshid Bazaar
[Al Ghubaiba] Dubai Museum; Old Souk; Heritage Village; Dubai Creek; abra station
[Khaleed Bin Al Whaleed (interchange)] Burjuman Center
[Dubai Health Care City] Dubai Healthcare City; WAFI Mall
Our first hotel was Al Dar Tower near Dubai Marina, a serviced apartment—not recommended. It might have been newly opened, as the renovation smell hadn't dissipated. Although the room was spacious, the amenities were insufficient for our group; we had to call for everything. In the evening, there was no hot water for showers, and after calling maintenance, they said a valve hadn't been opened and we had to wait about half an hour for hot water. In short, there were constant issues, and the customer experience was poor.
After dropping our luggage, we explored the area a bit, took photos with the world's most twisted building—Cayan Tower—and strolled around Dubai Marina.
In the evening, under the guidance of our brilliant navigator, we tried to take a bus to Burj Al Arab for dinner. Whether it was the strong sea breeze or the building's height creating a wind tunnel effect, we were blown to the point of doubting life: is this still tropical Dubai?
Important: On the bus, you must tap your card when boarding AND alighting! Important things said three times.
At the entrance of Burj Al Arab, security verified our dinner reservation number. After passing, we walked a short bridge to the iconic sail-shaped hotel. It happened to be sunset, so we snapped a few photos on the bridge:
Upon entering the hotel, I was a bit disappointed: the famous seven-star hotel had dim lighting and wasn't as luxurious as expected. The Arabic buffet wasn't to our taste, and the dark red decor made the meal feel somewhat depressing. Personally, I think Burj Al Arab is better viewed from a distance; a close encounter is not advisable.
After dinner, we tacitly chose a taxi back. Dubai has many family-friendly taxis, and regular sedans can barely fit four adults and one child, so we mainly used taxis for the rest of the trip.
Day 2: Atlantis, The Palm (Helicopter Tour + The Lost Chambers Aquarium + Aquaventure Waterpark)
After breakfast, we checked out and transferred to Atlantis, The Palm. The taxi from Dubai Marina to Atlantis cost about 40 AED.
Our little one looked quite handsome today:
Atlantis, The Palm is themed after the legendary ancient civilization of Atlantis, located on Palm Jumeirah, the largest man-made island known as the 'Eighth Wonder of the World.' It covers 113 acres and cost $1.5 billion. With its ancient Persian and Babylonian architectural styles, underwater suites, deep blue waters of the Arabian Gulf, stunning Dubai skyline views, and world-class restaurants like Nobu, it is a shining pearl on the palm.
This hotel can be booked directly on its official website. Although it states that payment is required in advance and is non-refundable, actually, you don't need to pay upfront; you can pay upon check-in.
We booked a family connecting room—two separate rooms with a connecting door—including breakfast and dinner (about 7,000 RMB per night for four adults and one child). There were several restaurant options; for dinner, we chose the Saffron buffet (reserved in advance, no waiting), and for breakfast, the Kaleidoscope restaurant.
There are many reasons to recommend Atlantis: First, its unique location at the tip of Palm Jumeirah, with the sea on all sides. The hotel is filled with marine elements—ceilings, walls, furniture, chandeliers, floors, handles—all inspired by the ocean. Second, it has a dedicated helipad for guests to enjoy aerial tours. Third, hotel guests have unlimited free access to the aquarium and waterpark by simply showing their room key for tickets/bands. Fourth, the staff are plentiful; you can ask anyone and get a satisfactory answer.
Although we only stayed one night at Atlantis, we packed the day with activities. The most thrilling was the helicopter tour. I booked a tour with ALPHA TOURS on Ctrip. A helicopter typically seats six, so we chartered one for about 5,000 RMB. At the hotel's front desk, there is a special counter for helicopter tour guests, and a shuttle takes you to the experience site (about 10 minutes). Before boarding, we watched a safety video, were assigned seats, stored belongings, and went through security. Then we waited for takeoff.
The weather was great with high visibility. The helicopter hovered over the hotel for a moment before heading towards the sea. Unknown islands dotted the blue sea like golden pearls:
Then it turned towards the city, showing the Dubai skyline with Burj Al Arab, Burj Khalifa, and skyscrapers. The view from above was indeed extraordinary:
Looking down at Atlantis from the sky, doesn't it instantly make you a fan?
The 15-minute aerial tour ended quickly, and we took a group photo in front of the helicopter:
This is the handsome pilot:
This is the future handsome pilot:
The afternoon highlight was The Lost Chambers Aquarium, the first open-air marine world in the Middle East. It houses over 65,000 marine animals, including sharks, eels, seahorses, and piranhas, with more than 20 impressive giant marine exhibits, recreating the submerged ancient city of Atlantis. The entire aquarium is themed around exploring the lost civilization of Atlantis, allowing you to imagine discovering the mysterious ruins while observing marine life. Legend has it that Atlantis sank beneath the ocean waves centuries ago; today, only the records of Greek philosopher Plato, human curiosity, and the 'Lost Chambers' of Atlantis remain!
Upon entering, you see a small dark blue tank with many fish swimming freely. To the left and right are two corridors. Take the right corridor first; on the left wall are ancient nautical charts, and on the right are several smaller tanks with fish in blue seawater. At the end of the corridor is another small blue tank. The lighting is dim, making the blue water seem particularly mysterious.
After exploring the right corridor, return and go left. The left side is divided into interior and exterior; the interior hall is the Ambassador Lagoon tank seen from outside. Inside the aquarium, the tank recreates the ruins of the lost continent of Atlantis, submerged 10,000 years ago. It depicts a genuine underwater ruin scene, dark and sunless. There are water jets, and fish swim freely among the broken walls and ruins. The Atlantis aquarium feels dreamlike, making me wish I could be a fish swimming all day.
The large tank also contains imitation ancient artifacts, colorful tropical fish swimming through them, and you can see giant groupers slowly approaching. Behind the tank, with curtains drawn, are the 'Neptune and Poseidon' underwater suites. In the bedroom and bathroom, you can open the curtains to see the underwater world. Each suite has three levels and costs about 40,000 RMB per night. Here's a photo from the official website to tease you:
In front of the large tank, there are Arabic-style chairs where you can sit quietly and watch schools of fish swim through the underwater ruins. If it's feeding time, you can see divers entering the tank to feed the fish. In the center of the hall in front of the tank is a strangely shaped magical artifact.
The aquarium also houses a very rare white crocodile. Typically, crocodiles need to stay in water for long periods to ambush prey, and most have dark green or grey skin for camouflage and heat absorption. However, a tiny minority are completely white with a pinkish hue. This is due to a rare congenital lack of melanin. Albinism causes the skin to be white and eyes pink. Albinism occurs in other animals too, like white tigers and white lions. Albino crocodiles are weak and need special care. They are sensitive to light and have fragile skin. Usually, only 20 out of 50 albino crocodile eggs hatch successfully, and there are only about 20 albino crocodiles worldwide. The white crocodile is priceless, reportedly valued at a staggering 97 million USD, equivalent to over 600 million RMB! I silently held my chin...
As Atlantis guests, we had unlimited access to Aquaventure Waterpark, the most popular waterpark in the Middle East. It features over 20 thrilling slides and river areas, covering 17 hectares, with exciting rides and experiences.
One of the star attractions is the Leap of Faith, a near-vertical drop at the top of the Tower of Poseidon. You climb to a height of nine stories and then plunge in one second down a transparent tube through a lagoon filled with sharks and rays. Very thrilling. Of course, I just watched...
Our little one is also a bit of a scaredy-cat, only daring to wade in the shallow water and play in the kids' pool. What a waste of such a fun waterpark on us.
Day 3: Atlantis → Abu Dhabi: Half-Day Tour of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
We got up early the next day to explore the hotel before the crowds. Truly, marine elements were everywhere.
At checkout, we happened to meet this gentleman at the front desk, whom I had 'harassed' multiple times during check-in. He patiently helped solve problems every time. He recognized me too, so we had to take a photo to mark a perfect end to our Atlantis stay. (Though I secretly thought his face resembled that of 'Lightning' from a certain meme.) I silently vowed: when I have more money, I'll come back and stay a few more days at Atlantis.
Today, we moved to Abu Dhabi. We took a taxi + bus (Nol card also works on buses) to our hotel: Grand Millennium Al Wahda Abu Dhabi. It was conveniently located near the bus stop and within walking distance of a shopping mall for supplies.
That afternoon, we visited the famous Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. We took taxis round trip: 35 AED there, 40 AED back, both family-friendly cars, very affordable.
The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is another miracle of the UAE, with many highlights worth seeing. Let me first use an official description to systematically introduce it: It is the largest mosque in the UAE, built to commemorate Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the first president of the UAE after its founding in 1972. He was the ruler of Abu Dhabi and died in 2005; under his leadership, the UAE developed to where it is today.
The mosque is the third largest Islamic architectural masterpiece in the world. During construction, designers from Italy, India, Turkey, Iran, and China were hired globally, and building materials were sourced worldwide. Thirty-eight engineering companies undertook various projects, employing 3,000 workers. It took 13 years and cost $5.5 billion. Every detail is world-class, exquisite, and refined. It opened to the public on Eid al-Adha in 2007 and can accommodate up to 41,000 worshippers.
The mosque has 82 domes and over 1,000 columns. Its design follows traditional Islamic architecture. The main dome is 57 meters high, and there are 57 decorative smaller domes on walls, gates, and side doors. Both interior and exterior walls and domes are made of top-grade white marble and white plaster. The spacious courtyard in front of the main prayer hall is paved with white marble. Every piece of marble has nearly identical color and texture, and the joints follow the stone's natural curves rather than regular squares. The marble surface is decorated with huge floral and vine patterns.
The main prayer hall houses the world's largest hand-woven carpet, costing $5.8 million. It was woven by 1,200 Iranian workers using 38 tons of wool imported from Iran and New Zealand, taking 18 months. The carpet has 220 million knots, is made in nine pieces, covers 5,627 square meters, and weighs 35 tons.
The chandelier in the main prayer hall is a gilded crystal chandelier custom-made from Germany, composed of over 11,000 Swarovski crystals. It is considered the most beautiful and largest crystal chandelier in the world. On the white marble walls, the names of Allah are written in 99 languages. The lifelike patterns on the ceiling, the elegant vines on the walls, and the colorful floral designs on glass doors and windows are all breathtaking.
Outside the main prayer hall, the long colonnade features different ornamentation. The rows of columns resemble date palm trees. The tops of the columns are wrapped in gold, glittering in the sun. The columns are inlaid with mica and mineral pigments that change color in the sunlight, very beautiful.
Around the mosque, four minarets rise high, each 107 meters tall. Minarets are decorative and symbolic features of mosque architecture, used for the call to prayer and for observing the crescent moon to determine the start of Ramadan.
Wandering around the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque made me truly understand the wealth of the UAE. The nation spent so much time, manpower, and resources to build such a mosque—the power of faith is indeed great.
Two important points for visiting the mosque: 1) Dress code. According to Islamic tradition, women must wear a robe covering from head to toe. Free robes are available at the entrance. Men do not need robes but must not wear sleeveless shirts; trousers must cover the knees. Everyone must remove shoes before entering the prayer hall. 2) Etiquette. Do not speak loudly. No jumping or playful poses in photos. No holding hands, hugging, or intimate gestures. Respect Muslim religious culture and beliefs.
Here is a photo in the robe—correct demonstration:
And a photo holding hands—wrong demonstration:
Regarding the hand-holding photo, I knew the rules beforehand, but once inside, I was so awed by the scene that I forgot. A Muslim attendant reminded me. It's their turf, so I had to follow their rules. I obediently took out my phone and started deleting photos one by one (actually deleting the bad ones first). For the last one (the best), I couldn't bear to delete it, so I pleaded with the attendant with pitiful eyes. He softened and let me keep it, which is how I got this hard-earned negative example.
The mosque lit up at night was even more stunningly beautiful:
That day, the mosque so captivated me that I dreamed of her.
Day 4: Full-Day Tour of Louvre Abu Dhabi + Dinner at Emirates Palace
Louvre Abu Dhabi is located on Saadiyat Island. A taxi from our hotel cost 30 AED each way.
To enhance its status in the art world, the oil-rich UAE wanted to 'replicate' the Louvre in Abu Dhabi. Faced with the wealthy nation's offer, the renowned Paris Louvre欣然 accepted, agreeing to open a branch, lend artworks, and allow the use of the name 'Louvre' for a 30-year lease worth nearly 1 billion euros. Additionally, Louvre Abu Dhabi will build its own collection. The museum opened in November 2017, just in time for us to experience its freshness.
The museum was designed by French architect Jean Nouvel. It covers 24,500 square meters, including 6,000 sq m of permanent galleries and 2,000 sq m of temporary exhibition space. Located at the entrance of Saadiyat Island, Nouvel's bold design gives the museum a memorable landscape. A layered steel and aluminum roof makes it appear to float, becoming a city landmark.
The most prominent feature is the 180-meter-diameter dome, supported by only four concrete pillars. Over 7,000 tons of steel, with free-form perforated编织 materials, cover the 55-building complex. The dome connects fragmented building groups into a closed loop. The iconic silver roof is woven from eight layers of geometric patterns, inspired by traditional Arabic domes and local palm leaf interlacing. The giant net-like dome covers the entire museum, allowing natural light to diffuse dreamily throughout the space, with gentle breezes, fully displaying architectural poetry. 'The geometric design of this building complex roof was carefully calculated. It consists of eight ceiling layers: the outer four layers are stainless steel, the inner four are aluminum,' Nouvel explained his design concept. 'During the day, every ray of light passing through the roof is visible, like a projection in a cinema, changing with the sun's position. At night, 7,850 'stars' light up, visible both inside and out.' Thus, the curved perforated layers of the roof, with complex patterns precisely calculated, perfectly utilize the superposition and repetition of eight geometric patterns of different sizes and angles. Sunlight penetrates the eight layers, creating diffusion and cinematic effects; at night, it becomes an oasis of light in the dark. This design has a romantic name: 'Rain of Light.'
Artist Giuseppe Penone's work 'Growth' runs through the entire interior space. The eight-layer geometric structure of the roof accurately conveys the 'Rain of Light' effect: light falls from the sky, scattering everywhere in the museum, leaving a lasting impression.
Despite the lofty architectural concept, I vulgar person could only describe it as 'looking like a pot bottom from afar.' Our little one was even more down-to-earth, holding a selfie stick like a mine detector.
Besides architecture, Louvre Abu Dhabi has rich collections spanning painting, sculpture, and artifacts, divided into six series: People, Ancient World, Saints, Oriental Images, Western Gaze, and Cultural Dialogue. From ancient Persian art to modern masters like Picasso and Gauguin, from a 3,000-year-old Iranian bracelet to nine paintings by American abstract artist Cy Twombly, the collections are dazzling and impressive.
Based on these exhibits, the permanent exhibition of Louvre Abu Dhabi organizes large shows chronologically through human civilization, focusing on four periods: the birth of civilization, the medieval period and the birth of Islam, the classical period (Renaissance to the Enlightenment), and modern and contemporary art from the late 18th century to today. This exhibition reflects the past and future of Abu Dhabi's art scene, highlighting its ancient role as a 'bridge between Eastern and Western cultures' in a new light: as the first global art museum in the Arab world, Abu Dhabi hopes this venue will be 'not only a container for art and culture, but also a place for exchange and dialogue between civilizations,' an important step in seeking deeper cultural exchanges with Europe and the world.
Due to time constraints, we could only skim through and pick a few interesting treasures:
There are also docents in the museum:
Both in architecture and art collections, Louvre Abu Dhabi shows the world the 'black gold kingdom's' determination to create a 'spiritual oasis' and boldly shape the future.
That evening, we had dinner at Emirates Palace. Actually, our main interest was not the dinner but curiosity about this so-called 7-star hotel.
Emirates Palace is a classical Arabian royal palace-style building, a miracle rising from the desert. It is located on the northwest coast of Abu Dhabi, with a 1.3 km golden coastline. It is the most luxurious hotel to date and the only 7-star hotel in the world, costing $3 billion. It is said to be 'built for kings.' The hotel is now managed by Kempinski and designed by famous British architect John Elliott. Its design is solemn, grand, and rich in Arabian style. From a distance, it looks a bit like a mosque or a huge castle.
Stepping into this grand palace of gold and marble, you might think you've entered the Arabian palace from 'One Thousand and One Nights.' From the main building to the annexes, it stretches nearly a kilometer in width, displaying the unique opulence of Arab civilization. Domes are a hallmark of Arab architecture; generally, a building has one large dome and several smaller ones. Emirates Palace has an astonishing 114 domes, all made of mosaic, extraordinarily splendid and solemn. The largest dome has a diameter of 42 meters, is silver-plated, and topped with gold. The exterior walls use sand-textured materials, reflecting the colorful Middle Eastern desert, giving this magnificent structure a strong Arabian flavor. The main gate is a triumphal arch made of Italian stone, 40 meters high.
After passing through a slope hundreds of meters long, you reach the hotel lobby. The interior decoration is equally stunning. Besides the finest marble and mosaic, and valuable oil paintings, even every sign is gleaming with gold, making this hotel a 'golden palace' only found in myths. The decoration uses the latest materials and technologies. The dome uses the latest lighting technology, special anti-corrosion materials, and pure gold. At night, it automatically glows, shining bright without fading. It is said to be the largest dome building in the world. The hotel used 190,000 cubic feet of imported marble, 1,002 Swarovski crystal chandeliers, whose dazzling brilliance is staggering. Just the custom crystal chandeliers require 10 cleaners to maintain.
The hotel covers 242,800 square meters but has fewer than 400 guest rooms. It also has a 7,000 sq m grand hall, the largest in the Middle East, accommodating 1,200 people; a ballroom for 2,800; 12 restaurants and 8 entertainment halls, with 128 kitchens and pantries, capable of serving over 2,000 diners simultaneously; and 40 meeting rooms and a press center with 12 workstations. The corridor from one end to the other is nearly a kilometer long; guests often get lost and need a staff member to show them back to their rooms.
Emirates Palace has 394 suites, divided into 8 categories: Presidential Suite, Palace Suite, Gulf Deluxe Suite, Gulf Suite, Diamond Room, Pearl Room, Coral Room, and Deluxe Room. Prices range from $600 to $13,000 per night, plus 20% service fee. The smallest room is 55 sq m; the largest Presidential Suite is nearly 1,000 sq m. The 16 Palace Suites are on the 6th and 7th floors, each 680 sq m. Each suite has 7 dedicated butlers on standby 24/7. Before guests arrive, the butler adjusts the language of computers and other devices to the guest's most familiar language, and sets TV in the bedroom, living room, and dining room to show favorite programs or music. The six Presidential Suites on the top floor are reserved for Gulf heads of state or royal family members, with a dedicated entrance driveway.
Emirates Palace's proud slogan: 'Meet all your wishes, realize your dream of being a king.' Besides the surface luxury, all rooms are equipped with so-called '22nd-century facilities,' realizing a mythical dreamlike experience. All rooms come with 50- or 61-inch interactive plasma TVs and wireless high-speed internet. Suites have even more advanced laptops and office equipment with printing, scanning, and faxing. Guests receive a $2,500 handheld computer, like having an Aladdin's lamp servant. This small computer has an 8-inch color screen, runs Linux, and connects to TV, stereo, and other devices. Guests can control all room facilities, set wake-up calls, download movies, record videos, or call staff. Hotel staff use similar devices to remotely control TV, lighting, sound, and air conditioning. A full-time security officer manages the hotel's network, including 16 firewalls and intrusion detection systems. If needed, the hotel's computer and broadcast networks can be completely disconnected from the outside, like the US government's internal security network. Another unique feature is the concealed plumbing system: over 1,000 kilometers of blue, red, and green fiber optic and electrical cables wind within, along with other high-tech gadgets, proving that cutting-edge technology is the hotel's most shining attraction.
The hotel has far more staff than guests, with a staff-to-guest ratio of 6:1. Because the interior is so large, some stairways are over a kilometer apart, so staff use 45 golf carts for transportation.
Service at this luxurious hotel is exceptional. Staff serve Arabic coffee on silver trays covered with rose petals and give flowers to ladies. Room attendants place lavender under sheets and pillows daily for a fragrant sleep. For bathing, there are seven options; if you have enough money, you can add tens of thousands for a champagne bath. On the private beach or by the massive pool (the size of a football field), staff will quietly mist you to cool down. Without a doubt, guests can enjoy a king-like life here.
Sunset photos on the hotel's exterior walkway and our group photo in front of the hotel:
The Etihad Towers across from Emirates Palace is also a famous Abu Dhabi landmark. Taking afternoon tea at its observation deck with a view is a popular activity.
Although we didn't go up, borrowing a photo from someone else is enough to satisfy the craving:
In 2015, 'Fast & Furious 7' skyrocketed the fame of Emirates Palace and Etihad Towers. At the beginning of the movie, when the main characters walk down the stairs in style, it was filmed in front of Emirates Palace. The hotel's classical Arabian exterior left a deep impression.
The unforgettable car stunt scene in the movie took place at Etihad Towers, where the hero drives a supercar, crashing through windows across three buildings, making hearts race and adrenaline surge.
Day 5: Full-Day at Ferrari World Abu Dhabi
Another day of taxis round trip: 80 AED each way.
Ferrari World Abu Dhabi is the only Ferrari-branded theme park in the world—a unique multi-sensory park and the largest indoor theme park globally. The entire 'Ferrari World' cost $40 billion to build, located under a huge triangular red roof on Yas Island, adjacent to the Formula 1 Abu Dhabi Grand Prix track.
The park covers 86,000 sq m, with Ferrari GT classic streamlined side design and a 200,000 sq m fiery red roof. On the roof is the world's largest Ferrari prancing horse emblem, 66 meters in diameter.
In the world of Ferrari, red is always the protagonist. The entire park is filled with red, accompanied by the roar of engines. The park has the largest Ferrari car display outside Maranello, where visitors can view many classic and contemporary Ferrari racing cars.
The most attractive ride is Formula Rossa, the world's fastest roller coaster, with a top speed of over 240 km/h. Due to the extreme speed, operators provide goggles to protect riders' eyes. Inspired by F1 cars, the ride uses a hydraulic launch system similar to that of a jet fighter, using 20,800 horsepower to propel the car up to 52 meters in the air and reach 240 km/h in under 5 seconds, followed by high-speed loops. For roller coaster fans, this is heaven; riding it a few times can justify the ticket price.
Of course, as usual, we didn't participate in such thrilling rides. Instead, we chose a gentler roller coaster, but even that scared me into closing my eyes with my heart pounding.
We drove go-karts, rode vintage cars, showed off long legs, watched performances, and the day at the theme park passed quickly.
During a break, the grandfather and grandson both pulled out their phones, with identical postures and expressions:
Day 6: Abu Dhabi → Dubai; Half-Day Tour of Gold Souk, Spice Souk, and Al Fahidi Historical District; Dubai Creek Abra Ride; Evening: Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa Light Show, and Dubai Fountain
This was an extremely packed day.
In the morning, we took a bus from Abu Dhabi back to Dubai and dropped our luggage at the hotel. Rove Downtown Hotel is in a great location, opposite the Dubai Mall, with a view of the iconic Burj Khalifa from the room.
Although it's only a three-star hotel, there were many fun details everywhere:
In the afternoon, we went to the Gold Souk. As the name suggests, it's a market primarily for gold, with jewelry shops lining both sides of the street. Even if you're not interested in buying precious metals, you should visit to experience Dubai's splendor. It's the world's largest gold market, gathering jewelry from Dubai, India, and around the world, mostly 18k and 22k gold. The local government strictly requires all shops to clearly indicate purity and weight, so you can be confident in your purchases. When you see a piece you like, remember to bargain—it's part of the fun.
The Gold Souk was a spectacle of gold. Almost every window displayed diamond-studded gold jewelry, lustrous pearls, and sparkling platinum and silver. Looking at those huge gold pieces, I wondered: is it really okay to wear such heavy jewelry?
I was only attracted to this golden scorpion:
The Spice Souk is near the Gold Souk, but the vendors were too pushy, even grabbing us, so we quickly escaped.
Every great city has a great river flowing through it. Dubai Creek plays that role here.
It divides Dubai into two parts: the northern bank is the old city of Deira, and the southern bank is the newer Bur Dubai. The creek is actually a 16-kilometer inlet, once Dubai's main trade route to the outside world. Most of Dubai's historical buildings and landmarks are along its banks.
Many traditional Arabic wooden boats, called 'abras,' ply the creek. On board, we saw flocks of seagulls circling around, waiting to be fed.
After disembarking, we visited old Dubai. Having seen enough skyscrapers, strolling through the old city was a different experience. The Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood preserves a cluster of Arabic buildings from the 1840s to the 1970s.
Al Fahidi is very quiet. Occasionally, you might pass a local in the alleys. Without heavy promotion, there are not many tourists. Due to the dry climate, Dubai has few natural plants, but in Al Fahidi, you can see many flowers and trees. The more plants a house has, the wealthier the owner is, because plant maintenance is very expensive.
Because of the dry and hot desert climate, the mud-brick houses have thick, sturdy outer walls for insulation, keeping the interior cool even in summer, and also windproof. These Arabic wind-tower houses, built with clay and coral stone, effectively block the desert heat. At the corners of the roofs are square wind towers, which are not just decorative; they channel natural wind into the house to keep it cool, like an energy-free air conditioner—truly green.
Narrow lanes wind between the wind-tower houses, leading people into corners forgotten by time. Without the city's bustle and noise, the area is exceptionally quiet, filled with a simple and serene atmosphere. Walking through Al Fahidi is like traveling back in time; every photo here carries a strong nostalgic, humanistic feel.
From the old city, we returned to the city center. After a short rest at the hotel, we leisurely walked to the Dubai Mall across the street. That's the advantage of a great location. Interestingly, part of the Dubai Mall was under renovation at that time, blocked off by walls. Without clear signs, we circled around several times, unable to find the entrance. Just as we were at our wit's end, we saw an elderly foreign couple also wandering outside the wall. We asked, and they were looking for the entrance too. Fellow 'entrance seekers,' we decided to join forces. The couple looked to be in their eighties but were full of energy. The old man walked briskly ahead, asking people for directions, saving us a lot of trouble. Finally, we found a breakthrough from the parking lot and successfully entered the mall.
The Dubai Mall holds several world records:
- Total land area of 1,124,000 sq m, currently the world's largest shopping mall.
- During a one-month Dubai Shopping Festival in March 2010, the mall recorded over 5 million visitors, a historical record.
- It was named Best Shopping Experience by Grazia Style Awards in April 2010.
- In 2012, it attracted over 65 million visitors, making it the world's most popular shopping and leisure destination.
- In 2017, it unveiled the world's largest OLED screen.
- The aquarium inside has the world's largest acrylic viewing panel (32.88 m wide × 8.3 m high × 750 mm thick, weighing 245 tons), with a capacity of about 11,220 liters, housing about 33,000 aquatic species, including sharks and stingrays.
In this wealthy nation, everything must be 'big.' Even chocolate is displayed on walls. This brand of chocolate is a well-known Dubai souvenir. Personally, I found the taste just so-so.
The Food Court is a great place, always popular. We solved most of our meals there in the following days.
After eating, at 8 PM, we went to watch the light show at Burj Khalifa and the Dubai Fountain. There are signs inside the Dubai Mall to guide you to the world's tallest building.
Burj Khalifa was originally called Burj Dubai, but was renamed in honor of Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, the ruler of Abu Dhabi, who provided financial support to Dubai during its debt crisis in late 2009.
Burj Khalifa is 828 meters tall with 162 floors, costing $1.5 billion. It used 330,000 cubic meters of concrete, 62,000 tons of reinforcing steel, and 142,000 square meters of glass. About 4,000 workers and 100 cranes were used. Concrete was pumped to a height of over 606 meters, breaking the record of 492 meters set by the Shanghai World Financial Center. The building has 56 elevators, with speeds up to 17.4 m/s, the world's fastest elevators made by ThyssenKrupp.
The floor plan is Y-shaped, with three sections converging into a central core, spiraling upward to reduce the building's profile and withstand desert storms. The award-winning design inherits Islamic architectural style, with the Y-shape inspired by the spider lily, a desert flower. This design maximizes structural integrity and offers stunning views of the Arabian Gulf.
During the 2018 New Year's Eve, Dubai staged an unprecedented magical light show on Burj Khalifa. Tourists from around the world gathered for a miraculous night. The Burj Khalifa light show broke the Guinness World Record for 'largest single building light show.' The show lasted until March 31, allowing us to witness it. I remember the viewing platform was packed with people. I held my selfie stick, continuously taking photos and videos of Burj Khalifa, exclaiming the whole time: So extravagant!
This light show, called 'Light Up 2018,' paid tribute to the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, marking the 'Year of Zayed,' while also showcasing the city's vibrant spirit and proud achievements, bringing the world's attention to Dubai.
Next to Burj Khalifa, on an artificial lake, is another iconic attraction: the Dubai Fountain, the world's largest and most spectacular fountain.
The Dubai Fountain was designed by WET, the same company behind the famous Bellagio fountain in Las Vegas. It cost $218 million, is 275 meters long, and can shoot water up to 150 meters, equivalent to a 50-story building. Its lights can be seen from 20 miles away, making it the brightest focal point in the Middle East.
The fountain shoots 22,000 gallons of water, with 6,600 lights and 50 color projectors. The water jets have over 1,000 different choreographies, truly ever-changing. Accompanied by Arabic and international songs, the water columns dance gracefully. Each performance uses different music and choreography.
That night, I was so focused on capturing Burj Khalifa that I almost missed the fountain show—a bit regrettable.
Day 7: Full-Day at Dubai Parks and Resorts
Dubai Parks and Resorts is an entertainment paradise covering 25 million square feet, with three theme parks and a water park, offering unique fun and excitement. Motiongate Dubai, Bollywood Parks Dubai, Legoland Dubai, and Legoland Water Park offer over a hundred indoor and outdoor attractions. This resort will enchant not only kids but also adults.
It's impossible to explore the entire resort in one day, but time was limited, so I bought a ticket on Ctrip allowing entry to two parks in one day (381 RMB per person, same for adults and kids). We chose Legoland Dubai and Bollywood Parks Dubai. Since the resort is remote, we took the metro and then a taxi. The advantage was few crowds; we didn't have to queue for any ride and could enjoy our favorites multiple times. However, we had to keep track of time and not stay too late. We left around 6 PM and found only one taxi in the parking lot. We quickly grabbed it; any later, there might have been none.
Legoland Dubai is the world's seventh Legoland. Near the entrance is a display hall with 20 million LEGO bricks forming a mini city, replicating Dubai's skyline and Middle Eastern landmarks like Burj Al Arab and Burj Khalifa, all scaled down.
Outside the hall are LEGO animals, cartoon characters, and even a bust of Einstein.
The park has over 40 LEGO rides, making adults feel like children again. Even my elderly aunt and uncle enjoyed themselves. We tried almost every ride.
One ride simulated firefighting: three adults and one child worked hard to operate a fire truck to put out a fire, flustered and shouting to each other: 'Hurry!', 'Over here!', 'That way!', 'Aim!' It was hilarious and lively. Although the staff didn't understand what we were shouting, they couldn't help laughing.
Bollywood Parks Dubai is the world's first Bollywood-themed park, covering many classic Bollywood movies, full of Bollywood vibes. We had so much fun at Legoland that we only entered Bollywood around 4 PM. We watched several 4D movies. I loved the 'Hero's Journey' flying experience the most; it blew the 'Soaring Over the Horizon' at Shanghai Disney out of the water. Best of all, there were no lines; we just walked in. My little one enthusiastically rode it twice and declared it awesome—definitely worth the ticket price.
That day was physically exhausting. In the evening, we went back to the Dubai Mall for dinner at the Cheesecake Factory. At 8 PM, there was still a wait. The meal was quite late, but the taste was good.
Day 8: Shopping at Dubai Mall + Desert Safari with Sunset Dune Bashing + Arabic Buffet + Traditional Dance Show
Our last full day in Dubai was relatively relaxed. We slept in, then visited the Dubai Mall again, bought some chocolate as souvenirs, and had lunch.
In the afternoon, we had a desert safari package booked on Qunar. The driver arrived at our hotel at the appointed time to take us to the Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve.
For dune bashing, we had a dedicated SUV. The driver was a pro, handling the steering wheel like a toy. The car bounced over sand dunes for about 15 minutes, a bit thrilling.
Deep in the desert, the sun was about to set:
The red dress against the yellow sand was a perfect match. I posed a few times, pretending to feel something:
Afterwards, the driver took us to a dinner venue: a spacious courtyard with Arabic carpets on the ground and low tables. We sat on the floor to experience the local dining atmosphere. In the middle was a stage for performances while we ate. What we ate wasn't important; the key was that the desert cools down at night, with a large temperature difference, so you must bring warm clothes.
Experience the desert revelry:
Day 9: Dubai → Shanghai
Time to say goodbye to this wealthy nation. Once again, from a bird's eye view, we looked down on this country that is half sea and half desert. I marveled at nature's wonders and human ingenuity in transforming the world.
I made a wish to Aladdin's lamp: May humans and nature coexist harmoniously, free from troubles like the COVID-19 pandemic.
