2023-01 Desert Miracle, Dubai

Day 1: Hong Kong to Dubai, transit in Doha.

Day 2: Desert Safari. Accommodation: Avani Palm View Dubai Hotel & Suites.

Day 3: Dubai Marina, Dubai Ferry. Accommodation: Avani Palm View Dubai Hotel & Suites.

Day 4: Burj Khalifa, Dubai Mall. Accommodation: JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai.

Day 5: Ski Dubai. Accommodation: JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai.

Day 6: Dubai Mall, Museum of the Future. Accommodation: JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai.

Day 7: Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood. Accommodation: Al Seef Heritage Hotel Dubai.

Day 8: Return to Hong Kong.

Dubai's prosperity today is not due to endless oil reserves (Abu Dhabi holds 90% of the UAE's oil reserves), but perhaps the vision and execution of its leaders. This should be the most open city on the Arabian Peninsula, and it continues to improve. The process of building a diverse international metropolis—from transshipment trade, to promoting tourism and financial services, to unique skyscrapers, and to investing in innovative technology for the future—is remarkable. The震撼 of Dubai lies not only in the world's tallest man-made structure, Burj Khalifa, and the world's tallest fountain, The Dubai Fountain, with their combination of light, sound, and water, but also in the ambitious Dubai Economic Agenda (D33). Everything reminds people of the crisis sense that if you don't move forward, you fall behind—not just for individuals, but for countries and regions as well.

Day 1 consisted only of the airport and flight. The Plaza Premium Lounge offered a modest selection of food, but the dishes were fairly tasty, though the salad was a bit lacking. Drinks, however, had many choices. Besides regular soft drinks, they surprisingly offered unlimited various alcoholic beverages. It was indeed an ideal resting space before a long flight, making the waiting time before boarding pass quickly. Boarding time arrived in the evening.

This was our second time flying Qatar Airways. Upon boarding, each seat was already equipped with a pillow, blanket, personal amenity kit, headphones, and a COVID-19 kit. During the 8-9 hour flight, two meals were served, plus two rounds of drink service, with flight attendants offering drinks proactively in between. There were also some small gifts for the Lunar New Year. The in-flight meals were average, with flavors suitable for most passengers. The entertainment system was rich, with many newly released movies. I watched three movies throughout the flight and almost forgot to sleep. The economy class seat pitch on the B777 was better than budget airlines; my knees did not touch the seat in front.

Doha has become another transit hub connecting Asia, Africa, and Europe. Its overall design is more modern than Dubai's, and shops in the airport are almost always busy. The second leg was on an A350, with fewer passengers—only about 70-80% full. The economy seat pitch was still comfortable, and the entertainment system was more advanced than the first aircraft. However, due to the short flight, no personal amenities were provided. Although the flight only lasted an hour and no meal was served, it wasn't like many airlines that only offer a small bag of nuts. Instead, they provided a croissant, drinks, a special dessert, and fruit.

We didn't rest well on the plane, and we had little interest in exploring Dubai Airport, so we went through immigration directly. In comparison, Terminal 1 where we arrived seemed quite old and worn. This was our second visit to Dubai. Unlike our brief visit eight years ago, this time we had more time to experience this international city in the desert of the Middle East from different perspectives.

On Day 2, we arrived early in the morning at our first hotel, Avani Palm View Dubai Hotel & Suites. We didn't expect to check in early, but the staff kindly arranged an available room for us, and we checked in at 6:30 AM, allowing us to sleep a nice recovery nap.

After waking up from the nap, we had lunch at Taqado Mexican Kitchen near the hotel. We finally tried Tacos, which often appear in American food competition shows. The crispy corn tortillas were filled with various toppings, offering multiple textures, but we had to watch out for the dripping sauce. Their Burrito contained rice, which was very filling, and with grilled beef, it tasted good.

In the afternoon, we went for a Desert Safari. By then, clouds had increased significantly, with some areas gray. The sky in Dubai always carries a desert yellow-gray hue, regardless of weather conditions. On the way to the desert, it started pouring rain. On the highway, combined with the strong desert winds, the rain slammed against the windshield. Even with the wipers, the car ahead was slightly blurry. After nearly an hour's drive, we finally turned onto the red sand dunes near the E44 highway. The 4x4 sped across the undulating dunes, climbing and diving along steep edges, feeling a bit like a roller coaster, but the thrill of each slope was controlled by the driver. Today's heavy rain made the sand less soft, which might have reduced the bumpiness. The heavy rain and strong wind diminished the scenery at the dune tops. Not only was it hard to walk on the dunes, but even standing for a few photos was difficult, and sandboarding was impossible. However, before we left, the rain stopped, and sunlight peeked out just before sunset. We seized the opportunity to climb a low dune and enjoy a barely-there sunset.

Dinner was at a camp in a desert oasis, Al Marmoom Oasis, about half an hour's drive from the dune bashing area. The roads had mostly dried, with only some puddles proving the earlier rain. We arrived a bit late; the sky was already dark, so we couldn't see the full oasis. The desert night was cold, especially with the strong wind all day. Only the campfire and blankets kept us warm. The food wasn't kept warm enough; the BBQ was okay, but overall quality was average. After that, there was a campfire show with several special performances, each entertaining, along with some Middle Eastern activities. On the way back to the hotel, there was no sign of rain. The desert climate is truly magical.

On Day 3, the hotel's buffet breakfast was decent. There were many fruits, vegetables, and eggs, relatively less meat, and some Arabic specialties. Even after the meal time, they didn't rush guests to leave.

We didn't head out until noon, going to Dubai Marina. The Dubai Tram from Media City can reach there. Yesterday's rain seemed to have exhausted the clouds; we had a cloudless blue sky, with only some clouds appearing after noon. The Beach at JBR has numerous sea-facing restaurants and a beautiful public beach. The beach to the north is monopolized by major hotels and resorts. We walked through a gap next to a building under construction onto the soft, fine sand. We strolled along the beach, where people were playing in the gradually blue waters of the Persian Gulf, and many sunbathers were on the sand. Occasionally, two camels appeared, attracting customers and attention. The traditional camel decorations contrasted sharply with the tall skyline behind.

After walking on the beach, we rested at Starbucks, replenishing water. Sitting on the terrace facing the sea, we gazed at the blue sea, bathed in winter sun, feeling the sea breeze weakened by the glass railing. Time seemed to fly without notice.

Then we headed to Bluewaters Island, separated by a bridge. The bridge has four observation decks, offering views of the entire Dubai Marina waterfront and the giant Ferris wheel Ain Dubai. Unfortunately, it wasn't operating, but we could still get close and feel its size—the world's largest Ferris wheel. Up close, we realized our own smallness. The wind was strong, preventing us from walking too long along the coast.

Back inside the marina, we walked along the Marina Promenade, surrounded by tall buildings and countless boats on the water. But there were far fewer pedestrians than seagulls on the railings. It wasn't until near Dubai Marina Mall that the area became livelier.

From there, we took the Dubai Ferry to Al Ghubaiba. This route travels on the Persian Gulf off Dubai, offering a sea view of the city's skyline. Unfortunately, winter in Dubai gets dark too quickly. By the time the ferry reached open sea, it was nearly pitch black. Only the lights of buildings were visible. The hotel lights on Ain Dubai and The Palm Jumeirah were still splendid, but the Burj Al Arab and the Downtown Dubai skyline including Burj Khalifa lost their charm. Instead, the historical buildings of Al Fahidi looked more charming under the lights.

Disembarking, the winter night in Dubai felt colder with the strong wind. We hurried along the riverbank but still got a headache from the wind. Hungry, we went to Creek City Restaurant by the river. Their Turkish BBQ was good, and portions were generous, though slightly salty. The fish was tender. We discovered that Afghan fried rice was delicious—long-grain Indian basmati rice, dry and suitable for fried rice, with rich ingredients and meat juices soaking in. We couldn't stop eating.

After a full meal, we experienced Dubai's rail transit. Compared to cars speeding on the E11 highway, the Metro was much slower, but it's good that one line runs through the entire city north-south.

On Day 4, the sky turned cloudy again. Although the sun shone in the morning, clouds kept accumulating on the horizon. After breakfast at the hotel, we started the day's itinerary near noon. We first changed to another hotel, JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai, located in Business Bay near Downtown Dubai and Dubai Water Canal. From the balcony, we could see the Burj Khalifa.

We walked along the Dubai Water Canal near the hotel, getting close to the various uniquely designed bridges. Looking back, we could see the Downtown Dubai skyline from different angles.

After walking for over an hour, we wanted to go further, but dark clouds gathered in the sky. It was already raining in the distance. As we approached the hotel, the rain clouds caught up.

Today's itinerary revolved around Dubai Mall. First, the Burj Khalifa. This tallest man-made structure in the world is worth exploring inside. Unfortunately, the weather didn't cooperate. When we stepped out onto the observation deck on the 148th floor, the sky was overcast. Soon, heavy rain started. At over 500 meters high, besides a bird's-eye view, we expected a panoramic view, but rain obscured more and more of the distant scenery. We waited an hour for the rain to pause. Then, on the outdoor observation deck, we felt the desert's fierce wind, especially at such heights. The 148th and 124th floors each had two outdoor observation decks facing different directions. We stayed from afternoon until the lights came on, but the sky remained gray—a bit disappointing.

Leaving the tower, we wandered through the second-largest shopping center in the world. It's easy to get lost. The signs are in multiple languages and fairly clear, but it's really huge. The Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo always attracts a crowd. People gathered at the aquarium's viewing window, watching the leisurely fish.

Walking made us hungry. Dinner was at YO! Sushi, a revolving sushi restaurant. Monday to Thursday evenings, they have an all-you-can-eat special. The ingredients were fresh, and the selection was decent, but the sushi and rolls weren't authentic.

By night, the rain had mostly stopped. People gathered around The Dubai Fountain. Against the lake, the lights of Burj Khalifa and surrounding buildings were even more dazzling. The fountain show every half hour was captivating. The water changed with the music, covering an area of over 270 meters. Our eyes couldn't take it all in. Although each show lasted only 3-4 minutes, time seemed to fly. We watched it three times.

On Day 5, we enjoyed the abundant breakfast at Kitchen 6 in the hotel. Different cuisines had their own open kitchens, but because there were many, we had to walk to different areas to pick food. Overall, the food was good and tasty.

We set out at noon again to Ski Dubai. Building and maintaining a ski resort in a desert city on the Arabian Peninsula must be an expensive investment. It's an attraction for Mall of the Emirates, and the first indoor ski resort in the Arabian Peninsula. However, this mall has now been overshadowed by Dubai Mall, with not many unique features.

For those who don't experience snowfall, snow is always exciting. When we changed into gear and entered, it happened to be penguin meeting time. We could see a few cute penguins up close. In the afternoon, the queue times for each activity were acceptable. Compared to the snow activities at Harbin Ice and Snow World, the overall organization here was better, and queue times were shorter, but the thrill level was average. The Snow Park activities were more suitable for children. For adults, the most interesting was probably the Mountain Thriller, which requires a cable car to the mid-mountain. It claims a downhill speed of up to 45 km/h, with a winding track, like a sled. We played inside for nearly three hours. After 5 PM, we noticed more people entering, so we left.

Afterward, we added some warmth to our cold day at Tribes, which has an African vibe. The HAKUNA MATATA TASTING PLATTER was actually various appetizers, generous in portion, each delicious. The MIX GRILL BRAAI was four different skewers of grilled meat, equally tender and tasty.

On Day 6, it was cloudy for the third consecutive day, with occasional rain. I really wondered if this was a city on a desert. After breakfast, the weather didn't improve; it started to rain heavily. Our plan to go to La Mer beach had to change to Dubai Mall to increase our daily step count. Sitting in the car driving in the rain, I felt a strange illusion of being in Hong Kong during spring rain. We wandered in the mall for an hour or two and decided to find a spot facing The Dubai Fountain to see its daytime view.

Inside Dubai Mall, facing the fountain, there are various restaurants, many full of customers. L'ETO had good dessert reviews. We luckily found a seat near the glass railing. However, the tiramisu we ordered was average in texture, not outstanding. The drinks were okay, and the specialty coffee container was unique. From the outdoor space, we could see the entire water surface. When the music fountain performed, the effect was stunning. Unfortunately, we couldn't see Burj Khalifa from here. But spending an afternoon in such a comfortable environment, with a couple of drinks and conversations, was enough.

After that, we went to the Museum of the Future. Its exterior design is an asymmetric ring wrapped in steel and glass, a beautiful anomaly among concrete and steel skyscrapers. The windows are artistic interpretations of Arabic calligraphy. Inside, there are no pillars. Each floor is designed as a vast interactive movie set, focusing on themes like future space travel and life, climate change and ecology, health and wellness, and spiritual home. No one knows what the future looks like, but what is presented here might be one possibility.

Leaving this beautiful building, we returned to Dubai Mall and happened upon a laser light show on Burj Khalifa, even more spectacular and stunning than just the fountain show. We wanted to go to Time Out Market Dubai, whose terrace has a great view of Burj Khalifa and Dubai Fountain, but all seats were taken. After watching a music performance, we had to leave.

We went to Bosporus Turkish Cuisine. Karisik Pide Yumurtali is a flatbread with three different fillings, crispy base, allowing a taste of various flavors. Beef Iskender Kebab: the bread filled with yogurt was delicious, but the beef was slightly overcooked.

On Day 7, the sun returned to Dubai, though occasional clouds still drifted by.

Today we had to change to the last hotel. We checked out at noon before heading out. Al Seef Heritage Hotel Dubai is located in the historical district of Dubai Old City. The rooms are scattered across several different old buildings, with furnishings retaining many characteristic copper items, including copper bathroom fixtures and washbasins. Everywhere in the room exudes a sense of age. However, it was very lively. We chose a room facing Dubai Creek, where the riverside was relatively quiet, but the door faced Al Seef's street, so the noise outside could still be felt through the door. Additionally, check-in efficiency here was very low. On average, each guest took 20 minutes, and we didn't get room keys immediately. Some guests complained of waiting two hours. We also had to queue twice to get our room keys.

This was the last day of our Dubai trip. We visited Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, experiencing the old town from the mid-19th century. Most of the original infrastructure in this neighborhood is well-preserved. Traditional wind towers built with stone, teak, gypsum, palm wood, and sandalwood represent a part of history. Every alley, every tower, every curtain, and the blue sky and sunlight create different light and shadow effects on walls and corners. Wandering through the winding streets, we could explore museums and galleries. There are over 50 buildings in the neighborhood, some open for tours. Although small, it's worth a stroll.

Not far from the neighborhood is the Dubai Museum, but it was closed for business, so we couldn't see the city's history and origins through it.

Then we walked along the river, returning to Al Seef. This area is also a large cluster of traditional-style buildings, with restaurants, shops, and many prayer rooms interspersed. Until Al Seef Marine, where modern-style restaurants and shops begin. We caught the tail end of sunlight, lingering among the traditional-style buildings, surprised by the scenery under different light and shadow.

Al Fanar Seafood Restaurant has an outdoor area by the river. The grilled fish platter had good barbecue flavor, but the fried calamari rings were a bit too dry. Additionally, the fried rice lacked rich ingredients and the meat juice didn't penetrate the rice.

After dinner, the neighborhood seemed even livelier. We took a short walk, observing the streets under the lights, under the moonlight, by the water's edge, in the cool breeze—feeling different from during the day. It's a pity we would leave early the next morning, unable to fully experience the night by the water.

During the return transit, we had more time to explore Doha Airport. We discovered a rainforest park in the middle of Concourse C with a treetop walkway. Walking and resting there was a nice relaxation after a long journey.

Dubai's achievement of a miracle in the desert relies on humanity's persistent struggle against nature, the ambition to rival the heavens, and also the original intention that everyone here and even everyone in the world should follow.