North Africa 3 Countries, Middle East 2 Countries 35-Day Free Travel - Egypt Chapter

If you don't travel, those plots that seem only to appear in movies will never happen. Whenever you walk alone towards a distant place, unpredictable things seem to be waiting for you there, beyond your design or avoidance.

Travel can shrink the world so that you meet friends as soon as you step out, yet it can expand your heart to embrace friends from all over the world, regardless of gender, race, or ethnicity. Travel is just that interesting.

Due to the pandemic, I hadn't been abroad for three years. This year, the country opened up, allowing us to go out. In November 2023, I decided to go abroad. This time, I chose Egypt, one of the four ancient civilizations. Tunisia also just became visa-free for Chinese independent travelers in early November. Then, looking at the map, I saw that nearby Morocco was also visa-free, so I started planning a trip to the visa-free countries of North Africa. To avoid backtracking, I carefully studied the map and flight tickets. The UAE was also visa-free, so I decided to enter through Cairo and return via Dubai. At Alexandria Airport in Egypt, I met a father and son from Guangdong who were doing business in the Middle East. They told us that Oman in the Middle East was well worth a visit. We immediately re-planned our itinerary and embarked on a 35-day trip to three countries in North Africa and two in the Middle East. During these 35 days, I saw the architectural styles of various countries: the elegant and serene Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, the ostentatious Gold Frame of Dubai, the Louvre Abu Dhabi, the man-made Palm Jumeirah, as well as the understated yet luxurious Oman, the blue-and-white Sidi Bou Said in Tunisia that resembles Greece's Santorini the most, Casablanca, the largest city in Morocco made famous by a movie, and Chefchaouen, which uses every shade of blue to perfection. Besides enjoying different natural landscapes, we also experienced the hospitality of students on Djerba Island, who eagerly took photos with me on campus. In Chefchaouen, Morocco, a street vendor, having taught himself Chinese for a year to communicate with Chinese people, added me on WeChat and asked me to teach him Chinese. A kind Egyptian young man helped us cross the road, and an Egyptian girl kept helping me find hotels. The warm and unrestrained Moroccan people, the two Germans in a Marrakech hotel who were eager to learn how to make our fermented black bean fish, and the Omani taxi driver who spoke proudly of his country. During this trip, we also chased dolphins in the Gulf of Oman, played with them, performed prayers at the Grand Mosque, and not only felt the grandeur of the pyramids, Abu Simbel, and Luxor Temple but also engaged in wit battles and bargaining with Egyptian taxi drivers and businessmen. We also deeply experienced some local cultures and customs, such as coincidentally attending a local wedding at a hotel in Alexandria, Egypt; seeing the earliest Tunisians—the Berbers—living in cave dwellings; and witnessing the world's endangered green sea turtles laying eggs and hatching. These are not things you can gain by sitting in a city café reading a few books. During this trip, we used various means of transportation: 9 flights, trains, taxis, Uber, Didi International, and self-driving. Different countries, different visa requirements, different exchange rates, different currencies—all these were challenges for me. Despite the differences in language, lifestyle, customs, and cultural backgrounds among ethnic groups, all humans on this planet are connected. People share emotions of love, attachment to short lives, a longing for fresh air and a peaceful life, a love for delicious food. Life inevitably involves joys and sorrows, partings and reunions, and even birth and death are so similar—from the pyramids and Valley of the Kings in Egypt to the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor and Qianling Mausoleum in China. The earth is truly too small. Below, I will talk about these five countries separately.

I. Egypt - Ancient Civilization of the World

As an ancient civilization of the world, with thousands of years of history and rich culture, this was the main destination of my trip. I looked up to this great place with a sense of awe. What people revere is not merely the remaining ruins, but the thoughts that this ancient civilization brings to all of humanity. Looking back at the night sky of human history, countless civilizations shine. Ancient Egypt was the most brilliant existence, mysterious and distant, once radiant, but the noise of impermanence was eventually replaced by silence, vanishing into boundless darkness. And we, as humans, cannot escape the shackles of time, becoming mere passersby in the long river of history. When everything fades away, the pyramids will still stand here, becoming transcendent and telling their immortal stories to future generations. And humanity's contemplation of the meaning of existence will never cease. Perhaps here we can find the answer. Before leaving, I read travel guides saying that self-driving in Egypt is a challenge for adventurers—pedestrians cross the road freely, cars go fast. I screamed every time I crossed the road, so we decided not to drive and used Uber the whole way. In hindsight, it was wise. Details are as follows:

Flight: Sichuan Airlines direct flight, from Tianfu New Airport to Cairo, 11 hours, Airbus 330, spacious seats, meals on board. For domestic flights from Cairo to other Egyptian cities, Egypt Air is at Terminal 3, Nile Air at Terminal 1. We flew from Cairo to Aswan on the same day, taking a free shuttle bus from T3 to T1.

Visa: Egypt offers visa on arrival. A flight attendant will distribute entry cards. Fill it out on the plane. After landing, buy a visa sticker for $25 at a bank near customs, stick it on a blank page of your passport, and present it to the customs officer. They stamp it directly for smooth entry.

Time Difference: Egypt is 10 hours behind China. Egyptian time is 10 hours later than Chinese time.

Transportation: (Using Uber App)

Cairo's traffic is terrible. If you need to go to the station, allow plenty of time to avoid delays. White taxis are relatively formal, with young drivers who can speak some simple English. It is recommended to ask hotel staff for an approximate price before going out and have them write the Arabic name of your destination on paper for bargaining and directions. When taking a taxi, it's best to open Google Maps yourself and ask the driver to follow the navigation to avoid detours. I used Uber in Egypt, paying in cash, which was very convenient and avoided being scammed. Just enter your destination. It's best to download the app and input your information before leaving China, so you can use it directly abroad.

SIM Card & WiFi: Buy a 10-day SIM card with data at the airport, put it in your phone for easy taxi and messaging.

I rented a portable WiFi device called "Roaming Man" in China, which worked very well. In African countries, the network speed is slower (4G). I rented an unlimited data, no time limit plan for 39 RMB per day, picking it up and returning it at the airport departure hall. I especially praise Roaming Man: I originally rented the WiFi for 40 days, but due to itinerary changes, I returned 5 days early. I informed customer service, and they immediately refunded the 5 days' fee. I will choose them again for future trips abroad.

Currency: EGP is called Egyptian Pound, unit L.E. It is convenient to withdraw cash from ATMs in Egypt. ATMs are widely available; those with the "123" logo accept UnionPay savings cards. Currency exchange at the airport is the worst, 1:30, with low rates and tax. In Egypt, accommodation is settled in USD. Outside Luxor Temple, next to KFC, there is a shop with an exchange rate of 1:45 EGP, but you can exchange as you go; there are many exchange places.

Itinerary: Cairo → Aswan → Luxor → Cairo → Alexandria

D1: 11.8 Chengdu → Cairo (flight)

D2: 11.8 Cairo → Aswan (flight)

D3: 11.9 Aswan → 270km → Abu Simbel → Aswan (round-trip charter)

D4: 11.10 Aswan → Luxor (train or boat) 239km, buy ticket same day

D5: 11.11 Luxor

D6: 11.12 Luxor → Cairo (Giza area) 657km (flight)

D7: 11.13 Cairo

D8: 11.14 Cairo → Alexandria (218km) (Uber)

D9: 11.15 Alexandria

D10: 11.16 Alexandria

D11: 11.17 Alexandria → Casablanca, Morocco (flight)

Egyptian Totems: Upper Egypt: eagle, Lower Egypt: snake

Food: Egypt is rich in tropical fruits and sugarcane juice. Sugarcane juice is Egypt's national drink, and mango juice is also very tasty. Fruits are super cheap; locals price per kilogram. Remember to bargain when buying. Local specialty desserts include Muhalabiyya (milk pudding), which the host's sister in Aswan treated me to—it tastes like our yogurt; Ruz bi laban (rice pudding), and Ommali (layered pastry).

Shopping: Egypt's specialties mainly include papyrus paintings, perfumes, perfume bottles, copper plates, dates, Egyptian cotton towels, T-shirts, etc.

Pharmacy: Uses the internationally recognized medical symbol "蛇徽" (caduceus), a snake winding around a cup or a stick. Arab countries' pharmacies all use this sign.

Major Egyptian Cities:

1. Aswan: In ancient Egyptian, it was "Swenet," meaning "trade," later evolving into "AsSuan." But from ancient Egypt to the present, its pronunciation has always been "Aswan." The most beautiful stretch of the Nile is in Aswan; the cleanest city is also Aswan. From entering Aswan, you notice the locals have darker skin, distinct from Egyptians; they are called "Nubians." Nubia has always existed as a subsidiary of Egypt. Aswan was the richest place in ancient Egypt, rich in granite, lapis lazuli, celestine, gold, etc. The stone materials for ancient Egyptian temples and obelisks came from here.

Attractions: Abu Simbel, Old Cataract Hotel—where Christie, author of "Death on the Nile," once stayed; Elephantine Island—the most beautiful section of the Nile; Aswan High Dam—one of the world's seven major dams; Aswan Museum; Nubian Museum; Philae Temple; Aswan Railway Station.

A. Abu Simbel: Abu Simbel Temple, located southwest of Aswan, was built by the great Ramesses II for his beloved queen Nefertari. It is a very fascinating and romantic place. It takes about 4 hours to drive from Aswan, only a dozen kilometers from Sudan. Although the journey is long and tiring, seeing the colossal stone statues makes it all worthwhile. There is also a miraculous phenomenon: at a fixed time each year, the sun's rays shine into the innermost chamber onto the king's face. That is indeed a miracle, so the Sun Festival is held here every year, with people from all over the world gathering to witness this marvel of human wisdom.

This temple was built by Ramesses II to show off his power and to try to extend his life into the afterlife. The temple has two majestic pylons, a hypostyle hall with 48 huge stone columns, two spacious courtyards, and three sanctuaries—very spectacular. During the visit, you can observe the evolution of architectural styles and techniques of various types of Egyptian temples.

B. Elephantine Island: Elephantine Island is an island in the Nile, one of the oldest regions in Egypt. Artifacts unearthed on the island date back to prehistoric times. Located near a large waterfall on the Nile, it serves as the border between Egypt and Sudan. The name "Elephant" comes from several factors: it was once an important ivory trading area, and the large boulders along the riverbank look like elephants lying in the sun from a distance.

C. Water Temple - Philae Temple: Philae Temple is dedicated to the goddess of love, Isis. Philae is a small island in the Nile south of the Aswan High Dam, where the temple originally stood. When the British built the Aswan High Dam in 1902, Philae Island was submerged, and visitors could only see the temple gate and columns protruding from the water. The temple contains hieroglyphic inscriptions and vivid reliefs, dedicated to the goddess of abundance Hathor and the goddess of fertility Isis, among others. It is said that Isis has ten thousand names; she not only governs fertility but is also the patroness of all people, thus highly revered by the ancient Egyptians. In 1980, Egypt decided to relocate the monuments to another island to restore their original appearance. At dusk, the setting sun adds a touch of melancholy and beauty to the temple.

2. Cairo: Attractions: Egyptian Museum, Ramesses Square, Giza Pyramid Complex (also called the Memphis Necropolis), Pyramid of Khufu, Great Sphinx, Nile River, Saladin Citadel, Khan el-Khalili Bazaar.

A. Pyramids and Sphinx: The Giza pyramids on the Giza Plateau is the collective name for a group of pyramids, not a single pyramid. They were built between 2600 and 2500 BC, synonymous with ancient Egyptian civilization, and one of the Seven Wonders of the World. Among the Giza pyramids, the three largest and best-preserved are the Pyramid of Khufu, Pyramid of Khafre, and Pyramid of Menkaure, arranged according to the constellation Orion. The Great Pyramid of Khufu, as the tomb of Pharaoh Khufu of the Fourth Dynasty, is the largest and tallest Egyptian pyramid. Built around 2580 BC, it is not only a symbol of Egypt but also the oldest of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

Speaking of Egyptian pyramids, one thinks of the Sphinx. Located in the pyramid complex near the pyramids of Khufu and Khafre, the Sphinx is about 4,000 years old and, along with the pyramids, is a representative relic of ancient Egyptian civilization and a symbol of Egypt. As the name suggests, the Sphinx is a statue with a human face and a lion's body, lying on the desert with its front paws extended. The entire statue is about 22 meters high and 57 meters long. Originally, besides the front paws, the Sphinx wore a crown, had a sacred snake relief on its forehead, a long beard, and a necklace around its neck. However, after thousands of years of wind and sand, the crown, necklace, and beard have disappeared. The Sphinx is not right next to the Pyramid of Khafre but a short distance away. After entering the Giza pyramid site, pass the Pyramid of Khufu and walk through a corridor to reach the Sphinx. There is a gallery next to the Sphinx where you can climb up to take photos. After visiting the Sphinx, you can walk to the Pyramid of Khafre and nearby Pyramid of Khufu.

B. Egyptian Museum: The Egyptian Museum is near Tahrir Square in downtown Cairo, a must-visit when in Cairo. It was founded in 1863. The ticket is cheap, displaying thousands of years of artifacts, including pharaoh statues, mummies, Egyptian art treasures, and daily utensils. Closed on Mondays. Here you can see the museum's most precious treasure—the golden death mask of Pharaoh Tutankhamun.

C. Saladin Citadel: Also the Egyptian Military Museum, offering a panoramic view of Cairo.

3. Luxor: The world's largest open-air museum. Main attractions: Karnak Temple, Luxor Museum, Colossi of Memnon, Valley of the Kings. The most stunning is Karnak Temple.

A. Karnak Temple: Karnak Temple is located 700 kilometers south of Cairo on the east bank of the Nile. It is a vast temple complex from ancient Egypt and the ancient temple of Thebes. Construction began in 2000 BC, with over 50 pharaohs participating in its construction. It was finally completed in the 3rd century BC, making it the longest-built temple in human civilization. The temple is divided into three parts by brick walls, with the central part being the best-preserved and largest, dedicated to the sun god Amun. The left side is dedicated to the god Montu, and the other to Amun's wife, the vulture goddess Mut, but it has not yet been excavated. In addition, there are dozens of smaller temples in the complex. On the avenue leading to the Karnak Temple pylon, there are two rows of ram-headed sphinx statues. The ram head symbolizes fertility and prosperity, while the lion body represents strength and dignity. Historically, this avenue guarded by ram-headed sphinxes, also called the Sphinx Avenue, once led 3 kilometers to Luxor Temple. The entire temple features many murals, statues, and columns that have been reassembled from fragmented ruins using mud and stone. This is because Karnak Temple has been built for over 4,000 years and completed for over 2,000 years. Due to human and natural damage, the temple was once unrecognizable. It took countless years and the efforts of many archaeologists to present the current Karnak Temple to the world.

Inside Karnak Temple, there is a large scarab beetle statue. It is said that walking around it counterclockwise seven times can ward off evil and bring good luck.

B. Luxor Temple: Located in the city center, it was originally a small temple for celebrating the New Year. Later, Amenhotep III, Thutmose III, and Ramesses II expanded and renovated it, turning it into a place for welcoming the gods Amun-Ra, Mut, and Khonsu, so it is also called "the southern harem of Amun." Every year during the Opet Festival (late May to June), a grand ceremony is held here. In front of the temple is the Sphinx Avenue, originally stretching to Karnak Temple but now interrupted. Inside the temple, you can see a huge statue of Ramesses II, a granite obelisk, and magnificent columns.

C. Valley of the Kings: Also known as the King's Valley. The Great Pyramids of Giza and the Nile Delta were the burial sites chosen by pharaohs of the Old Kingdom. To prevent tomb raiding and to be closer to the southern dynasty's roots, pharaohs of the New Kingdom chose another location for their tombs—the present Valley of the Kings. The barren Valley of the Kings is deep in the mountains west of Luxor. Almost all pharaohs from 1539 to 1078 BC built their tombs here. When archaeologists began excavating the Valley of the Kings in the early 19th century, almost all tombs had been damaged. However, tomb raiders were not professional archaeologists, and through the efforts of many archaeologists, some astonishing discoveries were made in the 20th century, most notably the tomb of Tutankhamun.

Tips: 160 EGP allows you to visit three tombs. Must-see: Tomb of Tutankhamun, tombs of Ramesses III and VI, and the tomb of Seti I. Arriving at the Valley of the Kings at 3 PM can help you avoid crowds.

D. Colossi of Memnon: The Colossi of Memnon are two massive stone statues standing on the plain between the west bank of the Nile and the Valley of the Kings. These two statues originally stood in front of a pylon, about 18 meters tall. The reliefs on the base sides depict the Nile god Hapi holding lotus and papyrus, symbolizing the unification of Upper and Lower Egypt. The statues were built by Amenhotep III during the height of the New Kingdom, but they are heavily weathered, with faces unrecognizable. Behind the statues was once his mortuary temple, but later pharaohs dismantled it for their own buildings. By the Ptolemaic period, the building was completely destroyed. People believed the statues were of the Greek mythological figure Memnon, hence the name.

4. Alexandria: Egypt's largest seaport, second-largest city, and a historic city. A summer resort on the Mediterranean coast, often called the "Pearl of the Mediterranean." Located west of the Nile River's mouth, about 200 km from Cairo. The city is over 30 km long east-west and less than 2 km wide at its narrowest. Major shipping lines, including Dishi International, can transport container goods from major Chinese ports to this port.

Attractions: Montaza Palace, Qaitbay Citadel, Corniche, Alexandria Library, the world's earliest library, Pompey's Pillar, Roman Amphitheatre.

A. Montaza Palace: Also known as "Egypt's Summer Palace," "Montaza Palace Gardens," "Montaza Gardens," "Farouk Summer Palace," etc. It was the palace of Egypt's last king, Farouk, located in a vast scenic area on the eastern edge of Alexandria. Montaza Palace is at the eastern end of the Corniche, a former summer palace for kings and royalty, hence also called the Summer Palace. The palace overlooks a quiet beach, surrounded by date palms and gardens, combining Florentine and Turkish architectural styles. The most scenic building is the Haramlik Palace, built on a highland, now converted into a luxury hotel. Today, Montaza Palace is more like a park, including a museum, sections of beach, restaurants, and a well-equipped tourist center.

B. Qaitbay Citadel: For ancient sailors, the Egyptian coast was a nightmare; the flat coastline often hid reefs and shoals. One night in 280 BC, during a dark and windy autumn night, an Egyptian royal wedding ship sank after hitting a reef while entering Alexandria's port, drowning all the royal family and the bride from Europe. This tragedy shocked the entire Egyptian court. Subsequently, Ptolemy I ordered the construction of a tall lighthouse so that sailors could see it from far away before approaching shore. After 12 years of construction, the Pharos Lighthouse was completed in 283 BC. Due to its massive size and unique shape, the ancients ranked it as one of the Seven Wonders of the World.

C. Pompey's Pillar: Standing on the ruins of the Temple of Serapeum, you must climb 100 steps to reach it. Pompey's Pillar is a huge column 22 meters high, carved from red Aswan granite. It stands prominently on the remains of the Rhakotis hill, where Alexander the Great grew up. For centuries, Pompey's Pillar has been a major attraction in Alexandria. Its main body is a tapered granite shaft, with a foundation 2.7 meters deep, topped with a beautiful Corinthian capital. Inscriptions at the base indicate the column was erected in 291 AD to support a statue of Emperor Diocletian. The rulers of that time, to spread Greek culture while preserving Egyptian civilization, created the Serapis cult. The word "Serapis" comes from the Egyptian god Osirapis. Ptolemy I added characteristics of Greek gods to create a new patron god Serapis for his people, and built the Temple of Serapeum on Rhakotis hill. In later religious conflicts, the temple was destroyed by Christians.

D. Alexandria Library: This futuristic disc-shaped building is a world-renowned reading venue, providing over 2,000 seats. The entire exterior is inscribed with texts in various languages to reflect the library's multicultural tradition and spirit. It houses 8 million books and is the world's earliest library.

E. Roman Amphitheatre: A representative Roman building—the circular theater—hidden in the Kom El-Dikka excavation site. It is small in scale, but as the only Roman amphitheater in Egypt, it is extremely precious. Discovered by Polish archaeologists in the 1960s, it is believed to date back to the 4th century, a typical Greco-Roman structure. 13 rows of European marble steps form a semicircle, accommodating 600 spectators.

Impressions from the Egyptian trip:

1. In this Islamic country, conservatism and openness coexist, fashion and conservatism each lead their own way. There are the ancient pyramids, Sphinx, Luxor Temple, and Abu Simbel, while also the modern city of Alexandria and Red Sea water activities.

2. Egypt is not suitable for self-driving. Pedestrians cross the road anytime, traffic is fast, and there are few traffic lights. Although traffic is chaotic, we didn't see any accidents.

3. The main entrances of attractions are not as grand as we imagined; some even lack a gate. At the world-famous pyramids, we doubted at the entrance whether it was a genuine world-class site—disorderly, with many touts. You must reach the Sphinx before 9:30; 10 minutes later, the photo spots are filled with tour groups, and vendors and scammers appear. Entering the Pyramid of Khufu requires an additional 100 EGP. Many people around the pyramids will ask if you want to ride a camel. You can negotiate price, but be sure to ask whether tips or other fees are included.

4. Accommodation and attractions charge foreigners in USD. Tickets can only be paid by Visa credit card. POS machines are outdated and sometimes fail. You can try multiple times or ask to change the POS machine. I encountered this in Luxor when checking out at the hotel; they said my credit card had a problem. I urgently contacted ICBC, but the card was fine and had overseas functionality enabled—it was a POS issue.

5. In Egypt, you can bargain heavily when taking taxis or shopping. It's best to use a calculator to show prices.

6. Egypt has a tropical desert climate. Sun protection and hydration are very important. The temperature difference between day and night is large; bring a jacket for the evening.

7. Try not to buy juice from small stalls; it's often mixed with tap water, unhygienic, and likely to cause diarrhea. Buy fresh-squeezed juice without mixing, or purchase bottled water from supermarkets, or use the hotel's provided bottled water to boil for tea or coffee. Otherwise, tap water from the hotel tastes strange even after boiling.

8. Bring some essential medicines such as Huoxiang Zhengqi fluid for diarrhea and colds.

Next: Morocco Chapter - Self-driving Tour