Explore Guangzhou's Surroundings This Way: Few Crowds, Gorgeous Views with Waterfalls, Flower Seas, and a Glass Bridge
In years past, I would have been either traveling or on my way to travel. This year, the pandemic has turned everything upside down, forcing us to stay home until we were nearly moldy.
With the May Day holiday approaching, we dodged the crowds and drove to Zengcheng for a day trip. We visited Baishuizhai, Erlongshan, and other spots, savored authentic local cuisine, and stayed in a mountain guesthouse where we watched clouds roll by and flowers bloom and fade at their own pace.
Zengcheng is a perfect getaway near Guangzhou, just over an hour's drive from the city center. With 53.3% forest coverage and 13 forest parks including Taizikeng, Dafengmen, and Jiaoshiling, the air is incredibly fresh and refreshing.
If you're up for a mountain climb and waterfall views, Baishuizhai Scenic Area is the top choice. To stroll through a sea of flowers and walk a glass bridge, head to Erlongshan. On top of that, we snapped Instagram-worthy shots at 1978 Film Town and saw the golden beach at Menghuabucun Village, embraced by the Zengjiang River…
【Baishuizhai: Mountain Hikes and Waterfall Views】
Baishuizhai boasts the waterfall with the greatest vertical drop in mainland China. On the 828-meter-high Baishuizhai mountain, a cascade like a white dragon plunges 428.5 meters. Legend says it's the spot where He Xiangu, one of the Eight Immortals, transformed into a waterfall upon achieving immortality—hence the name "Baishui Fairy Waterfall."
The scenic area features the Fun Water Valley, a wooden boardwalk built with ship timber, the Baoming Platform, and multiple waterfall viewing platforms where you can admire the fairy waterfall up close and feel its thundering power.
As soon as we arrived, we felt completely refreshed. The dense trees and pure air made the hike surprisingly easy—we felt energized rather than tired. The trail has 9,999 steps, and climbing all of them takes five to six hours. We stopped at the 4,099th step by the mountain pool and turned back.
【Erlongshan: Tung Blossoms in Bloom】
I thought we'd missed spring and all the flowers, but at Guangzhou Erlongshan Garden, I discovered that the tung blossoms were still early and needed a little more patience.
On the weekend, we drove to Zengcheng and checked in at Erlongshan. The garden offers natural beauty—ancient forests, old terraces, waterfalls—and because there were few visitors, we didn't need masks and could breathe the clean air freely.
Erlongshan is divided into East Village's Stone Valley and West Village's terraced flower sea. The red flower sea, windmills, and glass bridge create perfect photo backdrops. Near the flower sea, a cluster of Dutch-style windmills adds charm. Walking uphill, you can see the Little White Dragon Waterfall, and there are Insta-worthy spots like the glass bridge, a grass-sliding field, a shouting fountain, a swinging bridge, and a scenic slide—though they were temporarily closed during the pandemic, they may reopen for May Day. Better to check with the garden before you go!
Erlongshan has over a thousand tung trees. Tung blossoms bloom relatively late, opening at the end of April. When in full bloom, they look like snow from afar, earning the nickname "May Snow." If you come during the May Day holiday, you'll catch them in their prime; miss them and you'll have to wait a whole year.
【Guangzhou's Most Beautiful Village】
Menghuabucun Village lies north of Zhengguo Town in Zengcheng, nestled among mountains. With hills, water, lush trees, and fresh air, it's often called the most beautiful village in Guangzhou.
Encircled by the Zengjiang River, the village's standout feature is a stretch of golden-sand beach that goes on for several kilometers—ideal for hiking, camping, and family outings.
Zhengguo Huxin Island sits in the upper reaches of the Zengjiang River. Since the Zhengguo Dam was built, it has formed a stunning inland lake. The uniquely curved hook-shaped dam offers a perfect vantage point to gaze over the river or take selfies against a backdrop of blue water and sky, capturing a blissful moment.
Near the dam, we bumped into a middle-aged man doing a live-stream. He was promoting refrigeration equipment and livestreaming every day. We were curious about his sales technique but didn't dare to ask or interrupt.
【Zengcheng Instagram Spots】
For artsy vintage-style photos, head to 1978 Film Town. Set along the Zengjiang River, the film town's standout feature is a striking red revolutionary mural on the cinema building. It houses Windsor Castle, a white chapel, Reform and Opening-up Street, an art gallery, a museum, a yacht marina, a cinema, the B4 Theater, and bars and restaurants. The town also hosts creative industries like film, music, and advertising, making it a pilgrimage site for social-media-savvy photographers.
Upon entering the creative park, the revolutionary-themed graffiti on the cinema wall immediately grabs your attention. The cinema regularly screens art-house or 4K films and even has couple screening rooms—a thoughtful touch for dating pairs.
The 1978 Art Gallery displays a collection of purple clay teapots, their varied shapes a feast for the eyes. Taking one home required deeper pockets than we had—a truly sad story. The second-floor tea room hosts tea ceremonies where you can sip and chat, a lovely way to unwind.
The Liyu Church is another Insta-hit. Its clean, bright white design makes it a popular spot for wedding photos and occasional band performances.
The towering chimney is 1978 Film Town's landmark. Once a sugar and paper factory, its industrial bones were preserved and blended with modern art elements, giving the town its artsy retro vibe.
Passing a vintage barbershop, we saw someone getting dreadlocks, told they'd last months without washing. If you're after a Beckham-style retro side part, let the barber craft one for you. The busy barber said a "1978"-themed side part looks even better once colored.
【Mountain Hideaway Guesthouse】
My ideal life is about returning to nature and simplicity. In Zengcheng, we found a guesthouse called Yunshuijian (literally “between clouds and water”), a poetic name. It has 34 rooms, unassuming from the outside but exquisitely designed within.
The guesthouse sits riverside, facing the Zengjiang River with Jiufeng Mountain at its back, near the Huxin Island scenic area. The setting is comfortable and picturesque.
A rusty signboard, rustling bamboo groves, and swaying foxtail grasses lead the eye to a gray industrial-style building—the guesthouse.
Inside, the design is Nordic minimalism, a stark contrast to its rustic shell. I stayed in a garden room with a courtyard, where I brewed a pot of Pu'er tea, gazed at the distant green mountains, listened to the gurgling water, and savored a secluded, peaceful moment.
My friend adored the river-view room. There, you can soak in the bathtub while drinking in the Zengjiang scenery, or chat with family over red wine—a long-lost warmth that stirs the heart…
【Zengcheng Specialty Foods】
Zengcheng is a treasure trove of local delicacies: lychees in summer, late-season choy sum in winter. The region also abounds with winter melons, and the bean-flavored mountain spring tofu is intensely aromatic. Paitan roast chicken is a must-try, and Zhengguo wontons are uniquely delicious.
The chicken is free-range and marinated with a secret blend. A brick oven is heated with firewood, then the chicken is placed inside and slow-cooked away from direct flames. Without charcoal grilling, the skin never chars, leaving the meat incredibly tender, smooth, and richly chicken-flavored without any smokiness.
Zengcheng has a large Hakka population, so Hakka cuisine is done authentically. A whole goose is rolled in a wok until about 70% cooked, then shiitake mushrooms and other aromatics are added, and the goose is braised until done. The result is deeply savory, rich but not greasy, and bursting with flavor.
The Zengjiang River offers a bounty of freshwater treasures: river shrimp, yellow sand clams, grass carp, crucian carp, and mixed small fish. The tiniest shrimp—barely the size of a pinky—are the best, needing only a quick blanch; the shells are thin and crisp, the meat incredibly sweet. Steamed grass carp is tender and intensely flavorful, and as a fish lover, I couldn't stop eating it!
Mountain Spring Stuffed Tofu:
Paitan tofu is exceptionally silky and bean-aromatic, thanks to Zengcheng's pristine water. You'll find it everywhere, and it's very affordable.
Zhengguo Wontons are a century-old specialty. Great wontons have thin skins and generous fillings, but it's the rich broth that makes them unforgettable. The filling uses pork with a perfect 3:7 fat-to-lean ratio, ensuring a bouncy, fragrant texture. The broth is simmered with pork bones, dried sole, and dried shrimp skin, then finished with a scattering of scallions—color, aroma, and taste all in one bowl.
Aici (mugwort rice cakes) are a Hakka tradition and my personal favorite. Locals pound mugwort leaves with steamed glutinous rice into a dough, fill it with a mixture of sesame and peanuts, and steam until done. Unlike those from other regions, the Aici here have no bitterness, a brighter hue, and a softer, chewier texture.
【Zengcheng Self-Drive Routes】
Want to breathe fresh air, let your kids get close to nature, and taste authentic Zengcheng food? Pack the family into the car and come for a road trip. Here are nine curated “wellness and lung-cleansing” routes that promise mountains, rivers, deep breaths, and a delightful, laid-back adventure!
Route 1: “Fresh Air Reset” Green Escape
Dafengmen Scenic Area – Baishui Fairy Waterfall Scenic Area – Shimalong Wetland Park – Baishuizhai Village Eco-Park – Xiangjiang Health Valley
Food Picks: Traditional Baishuizhai roast chicken, steamed reservoir fish head with black olive, steamed meatballs in bamboo tube, river snails steamed with tiny shrimp, plain-boiled late-season choy sum, steamed kudzu slices
Route 2: Hidden Paradise Town Tour
Shangjiubei Village – Deng Village – Menghuabucun Beautiful Countryside – She Ethnic Folklore Village
Food Picks: Paitan mountain spring tofu, Paitan kudzu, Paitan white tea, Zhengguo cured meats, Zhengguo Huangtang pickled turnip, Zhengguo wontons, rice noodles
Route 3: Ethereal Spiritual Journey
He Xiangu Scenic Area (ancestral temple, Immortal Well, rooftop peach, thousand-year vine, pagoda, bell tower) – Xiaolou Renjia Scenic Area (boating among lotuses on Eight Immortals Lake, Lychee Garden at Shizu Fairy Mountain, Baode Ancestral Shrine)
Food Picks: Xiaolou winter melon banquet, Zengcheng choy sum banquet
Route 4: Wellness Hot Spring Soak
Baishui Fairy Waterfall Scenic Area – Dafengmen Scenic Area – Hot Spring Wellness Tour (Zengcheng Golden Leaf Hot Spring, Sanying Hot Spring, Xiangjiang Health Valley, Gaotan Hot Spring, etc.)
Food Picks: Paitan roast chicken, Baishuizhai sweet potato
Route 5: Natural Oxygen Bar Eco-Excursion
Menghuabucun Village – Jiaoshiling Forest Park – Lihu Lake – Zengjiang Gallery – Fengtai Lansheng – Shitan Dragon Boat Spectacle
Food Picks: Licheng lychee banquet, Shitan clam soup, Shitan full beef feast
Route 6: Lingnan Charm Leisure Trip
Erlongshan Scenic Area – Zhongxin Cui Taishi Ancestral Shrine – Kengbei Village Ancient Architecture Cluster – Cui Yuzhi Memorial Hall
Food Picks: Zhucun chicken rice, Zhongxin Hakka braised goose
Route 7: Bikeway Joyride
Licheng Street Section (South) – Paitan Town Section (North) – Zengjiang Street Section (East)
Food Picks: Licheng lychee banquet, Paitan roast chicken, Licheng lychee banquet
Route 8: Enchanting Zengcheng Culture Tour
She Ethnic Folklore Village – 1978 Film Town – Zengjiang Gallery – Lihu Lake
Food Picks: She ethnic loquat wine, lychees, mountain stream snails
Route 9: Rustic Charm Tour
Baishui Fairy Waterfall Scenic Area – Shangjiubei Village in Paitan Town – Deng Village in Paitan Town – Xiaolou Renjia Scenic Area
Food Picks: Xiaolou winter melon banquet, Zengcheng choy sum banquet
