A Spring Self-Drive to Guangzhou: Savoring Slow Living and Simple Pleasures Amidst Mountains and Waters
Spring is here! Spring is here! She arrives with light and graceful steps!
"The streets of the capital are moistened by rain like butter"—these spring drizzles are as tender as butter, so moist and silky, they tug at your heartstrings!
"The spring breeze greens the riverbanks once more"—this gentle spring breeze is so vibrant and lively, it stirs admiration!
The whole year’s work depends on a good start in spring. Spring means life, hope, and the beginning of all beauty. As a scenery chaser, with spring bursting outdoors, how could my heart not stir with excitement? The great poet Li Bai wrote, “In the misty bloom of March, one goes down to Yangzhou.” But spring is a master of fairness—everywhere looks beautiful. In my opinion, there’s no need to go all the way to Yangzhou in the glorious March; Paitan in Zengcheng, Guangzhou, is just as wonderful. It's less than a two-hour drive from Shenzhen. What are we waiting for? Let’s go! Let’s go!
Paitan Town is part of Zengcheng District, Guangzhou. There’s a story about the origin of the name. It’s said that in the past, this area was rich in timber. When transporting the wood, logs would be tied into rafts and placed in river pools, hence ‘Pai Tan’ (Raft Pool). Over time, the pronunciation shifted to ‘Paitan,’ and the name has been used since the Ming Dynasty.
Actually, Guangzhou has many fun places. Why Paitan? Proximity to Shenzhen is one reason; the other is that I simply love the environment. Paitan boasts rolling peaks and flowing streams... especially when spring arrives, with the spring breeze and spring rain, the hills and fields turn a fresh green—truly a forest town! For fast-paced Shenzhen folks, this is undoubtedly a great place to cleanse the mind and nurture the lungs.
Hi, I’m Manyou, a wanderer who loves travel and photography. Follow me to poetry and faraway places!
Feel free to leave comments at the end of the article; I’ll reply as soon as I see them!
Shenzhen departure — Sanheyuan Farmhouse Lunch — Check-in at Xiangjiang Health Valley — Hot spring — Hotel buffet dinner
Wanguo Fruit Town — Dafengmen — Paitan Market — Return to Shenzhen
For a foodie, the first thing is to eat, eat, eat—only when well-fed and hydrated can one have the energy to explore. We set off a bit late that day, and encountered a heavy rainstorm en route. By the time we reached Sanheyuan Restaurant, it was already 1:30 PM, and my stomach was rumbling on empty…
Following the navigation, we arrived at a food street, lined on the left side with farm-to-table restaurants. Parking spaces were available in front and on the side; dining there meant free parking—a small perk that was really appreciated. The first farmhouse restaurant on the street was Sanheyuan. When we arrived, nearly all the outdoor tables were full, a sign that the food must be good. After parking, we rushed inside eagerly. Faced with a tempting menu, my decision paralysis kicked in again. In the end, we ordered three dishes: stir-fried bamboo shoots with pork belly, bamboo-tube meatballs, and snail chicken hot pot. After all, it’s spring—time to taste seasonal freshness. When the dishes arrived one by one, we were stunned because the portions were quite generous; three dishes were enough for three people.
Stir-fried bamboo shoots with pork belly: 40 yuan per serving. The ‘flower belly’ is actually pork belly; it was the first time I’d heard such an elegant name for it, and it made me want to eat more. I took a piece of bamboo shoot first—it had a slightly tangy, funky flavor, but was silky, tender, and very appetizing. Already faint with hunger, we immediately wolfed down the food.
Bamboo-tube meatballs: 38 yuan. These were meatballs cooked inside bamboo tubes. The round, adorable little things charmed me instantly. If memory serves, there were more than a dozen—being not a big meat eater, it felt like a waste of good food, but luckily I had a big eater beside me. The meatballs were stuck tightly to the bamboo; a gentle nudge might not free them, but a forceful poke could send them flying... so eating this dish required a delicate touch. The meatballs were tender and easy to eat.
Snail chicken hot pot: 58 yuan. It was a large pot with river snails and chicken. The chicken was a bit dry; it would be even better if it were more tender.
Of the three dishes, my favorite was the stir-fried bamboo shoots with pork belly; we nearly finished the whole plate. Overall, the food was decent; if it had a bit of chili, it would suit our spicy-loving palates even more. A reminder: the portions are generous; if dining as a couple, two dishes are enough—unless you're a big spender!
Name: Sanheyuan Farmhouse Cuisine
Address: No. 3, Lintian'ao New Village, Gaotan Village, Paitan Town, Zengcheng District, Guangzhou, Guangdong Province
Average cost: 70 yuan per person
When booking a hotel, I compared several online and was finally won over by Xiangjiang Health Valley. Amidst a sea of lush green, a row of European-style buildings peeked through, evoking a forest fairy tale—so we chose it. It’s very close to Sanheyuan Farmhouse Cuisine, just a short walk away. At the entrance, the first thing we saw was a large flowerbed bursting with blooms. It was drizzling continuously, and in the distance the mountains were wreathed in beautiful mist; I couldn’t resist hopping out of the car to take photos. After that, we walked along the inner path toward the lobby, the whole way refreshingly pleasant. The lobby is open-air, with a low wall at the front, a lounge area in the middle, and a huge swimming pool at the back. The best part is that from the lobby you can admire the Baishuixian Waterfall, cascading down like ‘flying flow plunging three thousand feet’... Swimming, sipping tea, and watching the waterfall here is truly a blessing. Pity the pool water was cold; if it were heated, my chubby companion would have already leaped in with a splash. After checking in, the staff kindly reminded us to scan a hotel map, so we could easily find our room. This time I booked a room in the Wellness Villa area, with an in-room hot spring and private garden—a treat for a getaway, because being good to yourself is the way. The Wellness Villas are not far from the main building, just around a corner. Everywhere you look is full of green, with birdsong and floral scents in the air. Our room was on the second floor; upon opening the door, there was a sitting room with a huge picture window. Inside was the bedroom, with six windows directly overlooking the garden. Opening them, a crisp, lively forest concerto filled the ears. And in the bathroom, there was even an in-room hot spring... I was utterly satisfied with this villa—exactly the forest dwelling I had dreamed of. Too bad I don’t have a gold mine; otherwise I’d love to buy one.
The main reason I chose Xiangjiang Health Valley among many hotels was its hot springs. The hot spring area has 68 pools with Chinese medicine themes, divided into zones for anti-fatigue, beauty and wellness, elderly health, children, spine care, and five internal organ conditioning... It’s said that the water here is a pure soda-type spring water, the finest among hot springs. The villa area is not far from the hot springs, just a few minutes’ walk. If you don’t want to walk, you can call the front desk and a handsome guy will drive a shuttle to pick you up. After changing into swimwear and entering the hot spring area, it felt like stepping into a tropical forest. The pools were discreetly nestled under various rare subtropical trees, offering good privacy. More interestingly, some pools like the Sky Pool, Ganoderma Pool, and Jujube Kernel Pool were built into the hillside, requiring a short climb and a path scattered with fallen petals to reach, evoking the poetic charm of ‘deep in the monastery, a winding path leads to a secluded spot.’ Not all pools were open that day—some were under maintenance. Among those I soaked in, my favorites were the Ice and Fire Spring, the Fish Therapy Pool, and the hillside Sky Pool, Ganoderma Pool, and Jujube Kernel Pool. I’ve been to hot springs many times, but this was my first experience of the ‘ice and fire’ sensation. It was actually a pair of pools: a large hot pool with a small icy one inside. Being afraid of cold, my mind argued: one part saying ‘Don’t go, you might catch a cold,’ the other saying ‘How useless, be brave and try’... So I just went for it—climbed out of the hot pool and jumped straight into the cold one. I repeated this three times; it was really an experience of fire and ice. Thrilling and refreshing! I seldom do fish therapy, mainly because I can’t stand the tickling. As expected, once I sat down, little fish swarmed to my feet, and I laughed uncontrollably from the tickle, while my feet reflexively jerked away. Meanwhile, my companion sat with his eyes closed as steady as a mountain, calmly enjoying the fish’s enthusiasm! The Ganoderma and Jujube Kernel pools were next to each other, hidden in a green jungle. The reddish one was the jujube pool, which had a sweet taste. I closed my eyes and let my body soak in the warmth, then slowly opened my eyes to savor this green kingdom. The Sky Pool truly lived up to its name—being here felt like soaking in the clouds. It’s a long, narrow pool, and looking out you see the European-style main building and misty distant mountains. I’ll let you in on a secret: it was the Sky Pool that drew me to book Xiangjiang Health Valley without hesitation. Especially when it rains, the scene turns into an impressionistic ink painting, as beautiful as a fairyland. Soaking in this forest warm soup, with steam curling gently nearby and ethereal mist drifting in the distance, I could almost hear the heavenly music of Bandari playing in my ears.
After the hot spring, it was dinner time. Too lazy to go out, we opted for the hotel’s buffet dinner at 90 yuan per person. The restaurant was spacious and bright; the overall ambiance was nice. After a walk around, I felt the selection was a bit limited. The food was light and health-oriented; we spicy-food lovers were craving a plate of chili sauce. What surprised me were the desserts, especially the peanut snow-skin and taro snow-skin treats. The outer layer was dusted with coconut flakes; the skin was soft, chewy, and then the filling slid smoothly onto the tongue... Cantonese dim sum is simply delicious.
Name: Xiangjiang Health Valley
Address: Xiangjiang Health Valley, Baishuizhai Scenic Area, Paitan Town, Zengcheng District, Guangzhou, Guangdong Province
Average cost: 500 yuan per person
I’d been wanting to pick strawberries for ages. Rumor had it that near Xiangjiang Health Valley there was a Wanguo Fruit Town Strawberry Station, just a five-minute drive. So lunch would be strawberries. After a full day of rain, the sky finally cleared up, and driving along a flower-lined road, the air was fragrant. Following the GPS, after crossing a bridge we arrived at the Wanguo Fruit Town base. Right at the entrance were dense rows of strawberry seedlings, the ground covered with green plastic sheeting, so no worries about getting shoes and socks dirty. Straight ahead was the greenhouse; inside, strawberries were grown on rows of white racks, with white sheeting on the floor and the greenhouse itself all white. Looking around, everything was white and green—a classic forest-healing style. I wondered if the owner had a white moonlight in his heart, for how could the strawberry greenhouse be so pure and refreshing? There were many varieties inside, such as Christmas Red and White Lovers. The first eye-catching variety was, if I remember correctly, White Lovers. These were white strawberries, imported from Japan. They were white with a blush of pink, like a bride in a wedding gown. Picking strawberries was charged by weight, at 48 yuan per jin. There’s a trick to picking: use scissors to snip gently so you don’t damage the stem and can get a complete berry. My chubby friend was picking strawberries for the first time and was super excited. As soon as he entered the greenhouse, his eyes scanned like a machine gun, searching for strawberries hiding under green leaves. When weighed, we had two jin!
Name: Wanguo Fruit Town
Address: Wanguo Fruit Town, Paitan Town, Zengcheng District, Guangzhou, Guangdong Province
Average cost: 48 yuan per person
Dafengmen is located between Baishuizhai Scenic Area and Nankunshan Scenic Area, with the Tropic of Cancer passing through it. It also goes by the name Dafengmen (Big Sealed Gate). Legend has it that during the Tang Dynasty, a beautiful village girl from Xiaolou in Zengcheng was enlightened by Magu and became He Xiangu, one of the Eight Immortals. Reluctant to leave her hometown for Penglai, she wished to bathe once more in the Sky Pool. To let her bathe in peace, the other seven immortals cast a spell at the foot of the mountain, sealing off the mountain gate and pathway—hence the name ‘Big Sealed Gate.’ Unfortunately, at this season, the Sky Pool is dry.
Originally I planned to visit Baishuizhai, having already experienced rafting at Dafengmen the summer before last. But Xiangjiang Health Valley gave us two free tickets to Dafengmen—how could we pass up such a bonus? Last time was summer rafting; this time we’d do a spring hike! A reminder: to get to Dafengmen, you need to drive a winding mountain road, so don’t speed. After ticket inspection, a short drive leads to the parking lot. There’s a small shop near the parking lot; if you need to stock up on snacks and water, do it here, as there are no vendors inside during this season.
Passing the parking lot, head right to the trailhead: on the left is the 10-kilometer route, on the right the 5-kilometer route, both running along the river. We chose the 5-kilometer path. From the start, you descend to a bridge, and on the riverbank lies a ‘Giant Immortal’s Foot.’ After crossing the bridge, on the left bank a large rock resembling a foot suddenly appears—that must be it. The first kilometer mainly follows the riverbed, looking at all kinds of rocks; here, a vivid imagination is a must. Soon you’ll reach Jinxiu Waterfall, with a drop of 192 meters; it’s a tiered cliff waterfall, and during the rainy season it must be spectacular. Near Jinxiu Waterfall, there are pothole clusters—a geological wonder. While you can’t witness the thundering cascade this season, the rare potholes are a great sight. After leaving Jinxiu Waterfall, the path turns to steps; some are quite steep, so bring a trekking pole. Walking along this winding mountain path, my heart feels light. Watching my chubby friend, laden with a camera backpack, striding ahead, he deserves an award—‘Best Porter Chubby Guy of the Year.’ Finishing the steps, you find yourself above the waterfall; there’s actually a reservoir up here. This spot calls for a photo like Bian Zhilin’s ‘You stand on the bridge watching the scenery.’ Cross the bridge and walk a bit further, and you enter Butterfly Valley, where you can occasionally go down to the river to play. The water here is crystal clear, with a hint of light green. Let my heart dance lightly with my skirt in this landscape.
Further on is the Bamboo Forest Secret Realm; though small, the atmosphere is lovely. Around the corner is the Four Seasons Flower Sea, filled with various azaleas that dazzle the eyes. After passing through the flowers, the 5-kilometer route turns back. Along the path are many charming little sights, like intertwined love trees, with cute cartoon images of a boy and girl painted on the trunk—don’t miss them. On the way back, we reached the reservoir bridge where the 5- and 10-kilometer routes meet again. To avoid retracing our steps and see something different, we took the 10-kilometer path, which essentially follows the opposite riverbank. This route has steeper steps, so once again, bring a trekking pole to save energy. After the steps, we faced Jinxiu Waterfall again; this side has a bamboo-woven pavilion. Honestly, I’ve seen many pavilions, but such a bamboo-woven one was a first. Sitting inside, cooling off and listening to the waterfall, was pure bliss.
Bidding farewell to the waterfall, continue forward and you’ll encounter a roadblock—Little Sealed Gate. My chubby friend weighs 170 jin; anyone heavier might risk getting stuck! Pass through Little Sealed Gate, walk a few more minutes, and you’re back at the starting point where the 5- and 10-kilometer routes converge. Here’s my hiking track: 5 km start – Giant Immortal’s Foot – Jinxiu Waterfall – Forest Bathing Area – Butterfly Valley – Bamboo Forest Secret Realm – Four Seasons Flower Sea – Intertwined Trees – Part of the 10 km route – Jinxiu Waterfall (again) – Little Sealed Gate – 10 km start. In reality, we walked about 6 kilometers in two hours. Overall, the Dafengmen hiking route is well designed, forming a loop with different scenery roughly every kilometer... Walking, resting, playing, and taking photos, it didn’t feel tiring.
Name: Dafengmen Scenic Area
Address: No. 3, Xianquan Central Road, Paitan Town, Zengcheng District, Guangzhou, Guangdong Province
Opening hours: 8:30 AM – 5:30 PM
Average cost: 30 yuan per person
Whenever I visit a new place, if time permits, I always check out the local market because it’s steeped in the daily life of the locals and, more importantly, you can buy affordable, high-quality local specialties. After leaving Dafengmen, we drove half an hour to Paitan Market. The market is small but well-organized, selling daily essentials like grains, cooking oil, fruits, vegetables, meat, and clothes. The locals strolled around at a leisurely pace, while I struck up a conversation with a vegetable vendor. She smiled and asked, ‘Girl, would you like some Paitan sweet potatoes? Yidiandianhong (a sweet variety) is 3 yuan per jin; the other sweet potato is 3.5 yuan per jin—one sweet, the other starchy and creamy.’ I smiled back and said, ‘Auntie, I’ll take both, but can you give them to me for 3 yuan per jin?’ ‘Alright, take them.’ Sure enough, a little charm works.
Do you recognize this dark thing? It’s black olive. The auntie said the flesh can be pickled and served with congee; it’s very flavorful. I tried a pickled one but didn’t quite take to it. Next, this other thing—I initially thought it was sweet potato, but upon asking, it turned out to be kudzu root. The auntie said it’s a unique, nutritious green food with medicinal benefits; locals use it in meat soup. It’s delicious and cheap, only 5 yuan per jin. As a soup lover, I immediately packed one to take home.
‘How about some late-season choy sum? Fresh, 6 yuan per jin,’ the auntie at the next stall said with a smile. ‘Sure, but let me take a photo of you.’ ‘Don’t take my front view; I’m not photogenic.’ See, this is the lively banter you only get at a market.
I’d heard that Zengcheng’s Simiao rice is ‘the jade among grains, a delicacy in every meal.’ After wandering for ten minutes, I hadn’t spotted it yet. The vegetable vendor, hearing I was looking for Simiao rice, pointed to a shop across the street. Inside, they had many kinds of rice, but my heart was set on that one. Simiao rice is long-grained, slender, with a white jade-like surface that seems to have a silky sheen, hence the name ‘silk-thread rice.’ I asked the seller what made it special, and without hesitation she said, ‘Fragrant—it has a really rich rice aroma.’ At 3.8 yuan per jin, it wasn’t expensive, so I bought five jin. The next day, back home, I eagerly cooked a pot. As steam rose, a wonderful rice fragrance filled the air. Upon tasting, it was fragrant and soft; I broke my record and ate two bowls of rice that day... Now I think, five jin was far too little; next time I’ll carry back a whole sack.
After walking around and buying what I wanted, my stomach started its empty-city act again, so I decided to have a bowl of gaizai fen before leaving. This rice noodle dish is common at breakfast stalls but rarer in the evening. Led by the rice seller, we stepped into a small local eatery. A bowl cost 13 yuan, with plenty of char siu pork. The noodles were soft and smooth, and the char siu was decent. With some chili sauce, it would taste even better.
Name: Paitan Market
Address: Paitan Market, Paitan Town, Zengcheng District, Guangzhou, Guangdong Province
Opening hours: 8:00 – 11:30; 14:30 – 17:30
Average cost: 100 yuan per person
1. The Dafengmen Scenic Area is relatively primitive and enclosed; according to the management, there are wild cats roaming around. If you encounter one, keep your distance and don’t tease them.
2. At this season, Dafengmen is mainly for spring hiking, but some steps are steep; it’s advisable to bring trekking poles. The hiking route has 5 km and 10 km options; choose based on your stamina and time.
3. To get to Dafengmen, you’ll drive a winding mountain road; control your speed and drive safely.
4. Inside the scenic area, currently only near the parking lot is a small shop; make sure to buy snacks and water there if needed.
5. If you enjoy spicy food, bring a bottle of chili sauce with you; the local food is not spicy, and after a few meals, you’ll miss that kick.
6. The portions at Sanheyuan Restaurant are generous; don’t order too much at once to avoid waste.
In Paitan, a place of beautiful mountains and clear waters,
a simple, unadorned farmhouse meal let our taste buds feel spring;
a forest hot spring bath immersed our bodies in spring;
a strawberry-picking session brought our hearts back to spring;
a forest hike let our body and soul dwell in spring...
Who would have thought this small place holds such great energy? ‘Had I known Paitan, why bother with Jiangnan?’
I think I’ll definitely return. After all, these mountains and waters hide the slow life and simple pleasures that city folks so eagerly seek.
Hi, I’m Manyou, a wanderer who loves travel and photography. Follow me to poetry and faraway places!
Feel free to leave comments at the end of the article; I’ll reply as soon as I see them!
Travelogue directory
1. Opening words
2. Preview of beautiful pictures
3. Brief itinerary
4. [One]: Dining at Sanheyuan, eat bamboo shoots and bamboo-tube meatballs in spring
5. [Two]: Resting at Xiangjiang Health Valley, a forest hot spring bath
6. [Three]: Fun at Wanguo Fruit Town, a fresh world in the strawberry greenhouse
7. [Four]: Strolling at Dafengmen, a rustic green forest
8. [Five]: Shopping at Paitan Market, a glimpse of local life
9. [Six]: Tips
10. [Seven]: Closing words
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