Guangzhou Again – Strolling Through Xiguan

Travel mode: plane (Nanjing – Guangzhou) and self-drive.

Route: Nanhai God Temple (visit: 1.5 hours, ticket: 15 yuan), Lingnan Impression (arrived at 16:40, closed at 5, couldn't enter), Guangzhou University Town Science Museum (exterior), Beijing Road for food.

Accommodation: CityNote Xino Hotel (Guangzhou Beijing Road Dafosi Park Subway Station Branch) 271 yuan/standard room.

Travel mode: walking, taxi.

Route: Lu Xun Memorial Hall (1.5 hours, book online in advance, free entry), Guangdong Museum (1.5 hours, book online in advance, free entry), United Bookstore.

Accommodation: Beijing Road Xino Hotel.

Travel mode: walking, subway.

Route: Museum of the Nanyue King's Palace (1.5 hours, free entry), Yuexiu Park (2 hours, book online in advance, free entry), Guangzhou Museum, Yuehai Restaurant for food.

Accommodation: Jinzhou Hotel (Guangzhou Yuexiu Park Subway Station Branch) 207 yuan/standard room.

Travel mode: walking, taxi.

Route: Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall (free for medical staff), Beijing Road, Tao Tao Ju for food.

Accommodation: Guangzhou Huamao Guangfu Culture Hotel 151 yuan/standard room.

Travel mode: bus, taxi, subway, plane (Guangzhou – Nanjing).

Route: Shangxiajiu Street, Xiguan Grand Mansion, Liwan Lake Park, Xin Tai Le Restaurant for dining.

We hurried along the familiar streets of Shangxiajiu, and seeing that time allowed, decided to head to Xiguan Grand Mansion. On every trip, as long as my energy permits, I always want to see more and walk further. “Xiguan Grand Mansion” is a familiar name, but having been to Guangzhou many times, I had never visited it. This time, I finally managed to.

Address: Liwan District, Guangzhou.

Shangxiajiu Street and Xiguan Grand Mansion are not far apart. To save time, we took a taxi, arriving at the destination with just the minimum fare.

Guide map of Guangzhou Xiguan Yongqing Fang Tourist Area. Yongqing Fang includes five interconnected historical and cultural blocks: Fengyuan Street – Liwan Lake, Changhua Street, Enning Road, Duobao Road, and Baoyuan Road. The core area mainly features three landmark attractions: Yongqing Fang, the Cantonese Opera Art Museum, and Liwan Bay.

We plunged into secluded, leafy lanes – Fengyuan North Street. Although called a “street,” it’s actually too narrow for cars, only pedestrians and cyclists can pass.

A street brimming with local life.

80 Fengyuan North Street, a traditional Xiguan residence. The gate is quite distinctive, giving a sense of layered security.

82 Fengyuan North Street houses the Liwan Museum’s “Xiguan Folk Customs Museum.” Why are both the main gate and inner gate tightly shut? Through the closed gates, one can more clearly see the unique three-tiered door of Xiguan residences: the outermost is a half-height screen door, called “short-legged hanging fan door” or “corner door,” which shields pedestrians’ view when the innermost wooden door is open; in the middle is a “tangkong door” made of 13 or 15 horizontal hardwood bars; the innermost is the usual double-leaf hardwood door found in courtyards. This design provides ventilation and security, well suited to Lingnan’s hot, rainy climate.

84 Fengyuan North Street, a tall white building in Western architectural style.

This is the location of the Liwan Museum, and its door is also closed. Regrettably, I wonder if it’s because today is Monday. Unable to visit inside, I could only peer from outside at this early Republican-era building.

This grand mansion was the former residence of national capitalist Mr. Chen Lianzhong in the Republican period. Built in the early years of the Republic, it differs from Western architecture and is an innovation in traditional Guangzhou residences. The Western-style window cornices and railing decorations, blended with traditional Xiguan grand mansion elements, make it even more distinctive.

On each side of the mansion is a Qingyun Alley. “Qingyun” means “rising rapidly in the world,” also known as “cold alley,” “fire alley,” or “water alley.” In the old days, they served multiple functions: ventilation, fire prevention, drainage, lighting, drying laundry, passage, and planting flowers.

Walking through the lanes, crisscrossing and meandering. Underfoot are polished blue bricks; overhead rise the high walls of old mansions. From the Ming and Qing dynasties, this area was Guangzhou’s commercial hub. Many prominent families, officials, and wealthy merchants gathered here, building grand residences in Xiguan – now commonly called “Xiguan Grand Mansions.” These rich merchants traveled extensively, even overseas, so their homes not only preserve traditional Guangzhou architectural style but also incorporate the finest elements of architectural art from different regions, making the buildings and decorations increasingly splendid.

The small square in front of the Liwan Museum.

The museum’s courtyard gate – whether closed due to the pandemic or simply not open today, it’s a pity I couldn’t use the museum to learn about Xiguan Grand Mansions in more detail.

I could only look through the wall at Mr. Chen Lianzhong’s former residence. The Western-style villa, with Roman and Greek columns and Western arches, paired with a Lingnan-style courtyard, presented a perfect scene. But I truly regret not being able to enter today. The Xiguan Grand Mansion I’d so often heard about remained out of reach.

On one side is the former residence of General Jiang Guangnai, now part of the museum. Unfortunately, I could only view its exterior.

Built in the early Republic, this three-story brick-and-timber structure blends Xiguan Grand Mansion style with Western building forms, a typical Lingnan mansion residence of the modern era.

The southern side of Fengyuan North Street forms a small square enclosed by several buildings. The Guangdong Puppet Art Theatre, also the Xiguan Grand Mansion Theatre, sits at one corner of the square.

In another corner is 33 Fengyuan Street, a house built in the Republican period – a time-worn old Lingnan building, the Little Red House.

The two- and three-story staggered design is striking. The red-brick side wall has a semi-hexagonal shape, with carved stone arch door frames featuring exquisite floral patterns.

Locals enjoying themselves in the small square.

Walking northeast along the canal corridor, clear green waters reflect Lingnan-style architecture.

Liwan Bay, also called Liwan Creek, is not an isolated river but a general term for the crisscrossing waterways in this riverside wetland area.

Along the creek there are bridges, pavilions, and halls, complemented by Lingnan’s lush vegetation – everywhere is emerald green, flowers bloom almost endlessly, adorning the landscape with charm and beauty.

By the long canal stands an antique grand stage. The stage uses one of Xiguan Grand Mansion’s most distinctive features – Manchurian windows. These square panes are inlaid with colorful glass. The main blue-brick structure, contrasted with multicolored Manchurian windows, manages both rustic simplicity and dazzling opulence.

Where there’s water, there must be bridges. Five bridges cross Liwan Creek: Longjin Bridge, Dexing Bridge, Daguan Bridge, Zhishan Bridge, and Yongning Bridge. Each is uniquely shaped; this one is Dexing Bridge.

Crossing the bridge to the west side of the creek, the street-side shops run everyday local businesses.

Looking at the opposite bank, this cluster of buildings blends Xiguan Grand Mansion features with foreign-style small houses.

A cleaner in a small boat on the creek.

Starbucks sits inside this garden-castle-style building.

The Time-Honored Brand Street in Liwan District.

Address: 155 Longjin West Road, Liwan District, Guangzhou (Liwan Lake Park).

The park centers on the lake, rippling green waves. The lake mirrors the trees, and trees embrace the lake.

Pavilions, terraces, halls, corridors, and chambers rest by the emerald shore or over the water, peeking through the greenery.

In the park, trees cast shade, willows sway, grass carpets the ground, bridges curve and railings twist, waterside pavilions and stone bridges reflect in the shimmering lake – a classic southern scene.

Every bridge over the lake has a different shape, none identical.

Far across the water stands a statue of a woman, reminding me of Mochou Lake in Nanjing.

Inside the park is Panxi Restaurant, one of Guangzhou’s three major garden restaurants.

The Yueying Pavilion by the lake.

Lakeside pavilions are gathering spots for locals. They bring their own sound equipment and sing – though in dialect I couldn’t understand – local opera.

Summer lotuses add a touch of charm to the clear green waves.

This part of the lake is completely covered by lotus leaves.

A white corridor rides over the lotus pond, its layered depth making the scene even more vibrant.

Dragon boats are a Lingnan specialty, too!

A rockery and long corridor in one corner of the park.

Even the long wall isn’t idle – it doubles as a science gallery with picture displays.

A small square by the lake.

Houses bordering the park. The park is a civic park, without a clear boundary with the outside.

A long corridor serves as a divider, under which groups of friends gather to chat.

Here a sign introduces the “Pantang Wuyue Historical and Cultural Block.” It turns out this area right next to the park is one of the very few remaining rural settlement clusters in Guangzhou that still preserves the layout, texture, and typical humble features of the Qing Dynasty.

Checking the time, I had to return to the hotel for my luggage and head to the airport. This place will have to wait for next time. Now that “next time” feels like something to look forward to!