Wandering Through Downtown Guangzhou: Staying at a Lingnan Garden Hotel for Classic Cantonese Flavors

The Garden Hotel, Guangzhou: Staying Amidst a Lingnan Garden

What does it feel like to stay in a hotel that’s even more luxurious than five-star? Out of my love for Hong Kong dramas and Cantonese cuisine, I visit Guangzhou every year and have stayed in all kinds of hotels there. For old-time Guangzhou locals, The Garden Hotel is a childhood memory. This five-star hotel, with 36 years of history, was one of China’s first three Platinum Five-Star hotels.

I passed by this Guangzhou Garden Hotel with its huge Lingnan garden a few years ago. It’s right in the central business district of Guangzhou, and its two massive Y-shaped buildings are very eye-catching. This time, instead of just passing by, I’m checking in to The Garden Hotel, Guangzhou to fully enjoy a vacation at a Platinum Five-Star hotel.

Gold-inlaid mural of Dream of the Red Chamber, a caisson ceiling with a golden dragon playing with a pearl, a spiral staircase – the magnificent design highlights the prestige of this 36-year-old five-star hotel. The moment I stepped into the Garden Hotel, I felt as if I were entering not a hotel, but a museum, an art gallery.

The lobby of the Garden Hotel features a classic Chinese design. Most striking is the huge mural behind the front desk, made of gold leaf, which depicts the story from Dream of the Red Chamber - 'Granny Liu’s Visit to the Grand View Garden'. It is inlaid with 200,000 pieces of gold leaf weighing 2 kilograms in total. Each scene recreates the life of the Twelve Beauties of Jinling and the splendor of the Grand View Garden. Familiar scenes include Daiyu burying flowers and Baochai chasing butterflies.

The ceiling above is another distinctive architectural feature: a caisson ceiling named 'Golden Dragon Playing with a Pearl'. It is composed of square pillars with bright patterns and carved wooden dragons gilded with gold. The overall design is circular inside and square outside, offering functions such as load-bearing, pressure release, fire prevention, and temperature regulation. The central circular dragon pattern has a radius of 1.7 meters, and the entire canopy is 7 by 7 meters. A total of 49,000 pieces of gold leaf, weighing 1 kilogram, were used.

Turning around, there is another mural, an exquisite and vivid stone carving depicting the scenery of Guangdong’s water towns. Inspired by Guangdong paper-cutting, it uses simple black lines to outline the local customs and landscapes of the Lingnan water region.

On one side of the hotel is the 'Hundred Beauties', a large Yangjiang lacquer painting imitating works by Tang Dynasty artists. It vividly depicts the pleasures of life of hundreds of palace maids and imperial consorts. Looking closely, each figure has different expressions and charms – some are playing, admiring flowers, chasing butterflies, playing music or chess, painting, or dancing gracefully, showcasing the prosperity of a golden age.

On the other side is the 'Hundred Horses', vividly portraying 100 steeds grazing and roaming. Each horse has a different posture, and the scene of galloping horses leaves a lasting impression.

Connecting the second and third floors is an eye-catching structure: a spiral wooden staircase in the Ionic style, full of ancient Greek flavor that transports you back to the last century.

The most distinctive feature of the Garden Hotel is its garden. This vast 21,000-square-meter garden with unique Lingnan character is hard to find in the pricey downtown area of Guangzhou. The hotel truly lives up to the word 'garden' in its name.

After crossing a small bridge, I looked up at the Garden Tower behind and discovered hidden gems: on the walls are a large mural 'Wild Geese Wall' and another of 'Hanshan Temple', both depicting Jiangnan scenery. They add infinite charm to the hotel’s back garden.

Pavilions, terraces, rockeries, and waterfalls – the Lingnan garden reveals both elegance and grandeur.

Koi fish swim happily back and forth in the pond, and the sunlight shining on the vegetation creates a thriving scene. This exquisite Lingnan garden makes me feel as if I’ve stepped into a secluded paradise in the heart of bustling Guangzhou, with all the noise and distractions shut out.

On the fourth floor is an outdoor swimming pool with a Southeast Asian vibe. With a city garden plus an outdoor pool, the Garden Hotel truly lives up to its name. The newly upgraded pool is worth spending some precious joyful hours at.

Of course, the comfort of a hotel stay is closely tied to the room. This time I stayed in an executive Cantonese charm room, which is full of traditional Lingnan elements – from the kapok flowers on the table to the Dream of the Red Chamber mural on the wall. Classical and modern styles blend naturally. In such a cozy environment, you just want to vacation, not work.

The suite design provides a good separation between bedroom and living room so that work and sleep don’t disturb each other. At over 60 square meters, it’s very comfortable and spacious for the prime downtown location.

The soft king bed, comfortable daybed, and especially the mural behind the bed – also with Dream of the Red Chamber elements – are worth appreciating. Pillows come in different heights and firmness so guests can choose the most comfortable one.

The bathroom is spacious, and my favorite is the large bathtub. Soaking in it after a day out is wonderfully relaxing. The hotel’s custom-made shower gel, shampoo, and a full set of amenities are thoughtful and considerate.

The living room has both a desk and a sofa area, perfect for work and meetings. The most special touch is the desk printed with kapok patterns – the city flower of Guangzhou – adding a strong local flavor.

The prepared snacks are also full of Lingnan elements, making you feel warmly welcomed.

The Garden Hotel has several classic restaurants covering Cantonese, Western, Japanese, and other cuisines. Some of them are quite famous in Guangzhou and often top the rankings; even people who aren’t staying here come just to dine. In Guangzhou, a city renowned for its food, the dining options at the Garden Hotel are more than abundant. Whether you come specifically to eat or dine as a hotel guest, you’ll be full of pleasant surprises.

The Waterfall Restaurant is the hotel’s internet-famous dining spot and one of Guangzhou’s popular Instagram-worthy restaurants. Its fame comes from the floor-to-ceiling windows that look out onto the garden’s waterfall. Through the glass, you can see the spectacular 18-meter waterfall. The bright, open dining space with this view is especially beautiful.

In front of the Waterfall Restaurant stands a gilded statue of General Liu, a symbol of Lingnan totemic culture, akin to a door god.

It’s not just the environment that’s trendy; the afternoon tea snacks are too. The afternoon tea here is semi-buffet style. Besides classic Cantonese dim sum, you can also order a Ferris wheel afternoon tea set. Exquisite desserts are placed one by one on the Ferris wheel’s suspended trays – it’s so girly that any woman would fall in love with this delicate presentation.

Of course, Cantonese dim sum is the heart of the afternoon tea. Shrimp dumplings, siu mai, served on artful tableware, almost look too good to eat.

Various Western and Japanese pastries come together in a borderless afternoon tea spread that lifts your spirits.

There are many more dim sum options at the Waterfall Restaurant – chicken feet, barbecued pork puff pastry, golden cake, and all kinds of Cantonese dim sum. If you want a window seat, come early, as those seats are in high demand.

The Garden Hotel is home to several Michelin-recommended restaurants, and Lai Wan Pavilion is one of them. This restaurant is very popular among Cantonese people, and many come specifically to host friends here, as it’s a Michelin-recommended authentic Cantonese eatery.

The décor is in an antique Xiguan style, making me feel as though I’ve traveled back in time to old Guangzhou’s Lychee Bay. Flower boats are moored beside you; while you sit inside, a gentle stream flows by, and delicious food accompanies you – this is a childhood memory for many Cantonese.

This oyster shell wall is actually made of real oyster shells – quite impressive.

The atmosphere sets the mood; now let’s see how the food tastes. First up is the lychee wood barbecued pork. Char siu is a classic Cantonese roast. Grilled over lychee wood, the meat is fatty and tender, the skin crispy, drizzled with sauce, with a faintly sweet and fragrant taste. It’s a perfect start.

Soup is always on a Cantonese table; it’s in their blood. This bowl of double-boiled chicken with black chicken and jujube is packed with ingredients and has a delicate, fragrant taste. Unlike elsewhere, Cantonese start with soup, which also awakens my taste buds.

The 'gold and silver eggs with night-blooming cereus' is a smooth, healthy, and green dish.

The pan-fried noodles with bamboo fungus and vegetables offer rich textures, combining various ingredients with chewy noodles – very filling.

The stir-fried kidney with ginger and galangal is a nourishing dish. The kidneys are bouncy and flavorful.

The oxtail stewed with tomatoes and kidney beans resembles a tomato beef brisket, with abundant ingredients. The sweet-and-sour tomatoes and oxtail combine perfectly.

The braised tofu casserole reminds me of home cooking. The tofu is well-seasoned and goes great with rice.

The lychee egg tart – Lychee Bay is famous for its abundant lychees, and the egg tart with real lychee flesh has a sweet fragrance that I, as a dessert lover, can’t resist.

In the evening, I enjoy a drink at the executive lounge. Old photos and vintage movies create a nostalgic atmosphere. I ask the bartender to make us today’s special cocktail. With flickering lights and captivating music, the nightlife here is enchanting.

The bar has live singers every night, usually starting at 9 p.m., performing songs from different eras.

The executive lounge’s hospitality package includes drinks and an assortment of small snacks. I have to say, at the Garden Hotel, you never have to worry about going hungry.

At night it’s a bar, in the morning it transforms into an indoor and outdoor breakfast restaurant. Whether you dine inside or outdoors, you can enjoy your meal accompanied by garden views, watching the sunshine spill over the garden – very pleasant.

Breakfast is semi-buffet style, with plenty of self-serve items and also made-to-order specialties. For instance, eggs come in several ways – sunny-side up, over easy, scrambled – to suit different preferences.

My favorite is the eggs Benedict. Cutting through the egg white with a knife, the yolk slowly flows out, blending with the rich, smooth Hollandaise sauce that has a hint of refreshing lemony tartness. Then I fork up the English muffin and take a bite – it’s simply delicious.

Croissants, mille-feuille, and doughnuts are soft and fragrant, a sweet-lover’s delight.

Sunny-side-up eggs are also worth trying.

Siu mai and shrimp dumplings, traditional Cantonese dim sum, are also available.

A must-order is a bowl of Guangzhou-style wonton noodles. Bamboo-pressed noodles, a representative of Guangzhou cuisine, are made with alkaline water and duck eggs, giving them a springy texture. The broth, simmered with dried flounder and pork bones, is rich and flavorful. A few shrimp wontons elevate the whole dish.

There are also various self-serve buffet items, a dazzling array that makes for a richly textured breakfast.

Oh, and be sure to try the mixed juices here. They come in different flavors, each freshly squeezed from real fruit – nutritious and tasty.

Peach Blossom Garden is the hotel’s signature Chinese restaurant, also recommended by Michelin, bringing together culinary delights from across the country. As the name suggests, it’s inspired by the story of Liu Bei, Guan Yu, and Zhang Fei swearing brotherhood in the peach garden from Romance of the Three Kingdoms. On either side of the entrance bridge, Guan Yu’s Green Dragon Crescent Blade is on the left, and Zhang Fei’s Serpent Spear on the right, welcoming guests.

Inside, you see two painted ceramic murals on either side, depicting the Oath of the Peach Garden and the Three Heroes Battling Lü Bu respectively.

There are also eight murals of other Three Kingdoms heroes: Liu Bei, Guan Yu, Zhang Fei, Kongming (Zhuge Liang), Zhao Zilong, Sun Quan, Cao Cao, and Lü Bu. Here at Peach Blossom Garden, you can reminisce, raise a glass, and savor the culture of the Three Kingdoms.

Peach Blossom Garden is decorated in a very classical antique style, with various wooden furniture and ornaments, full of traditional Lingnan flavor.

The private rooms here are also creative, each themed after a Three Kingdoms figure. With grand antique-style décor and various wall decals, you can see the restaurant’s attention to detail. These rooms are perfect for family gatherings.

As usual, soup comes first. During my days in Guangzhou, I’ve gotten used to having soup before a meal. The Eight Treasures Winter Melon Cup – a small winter melon fits perfectly in the plate as if custom-made. Though the soup is hot, the winter melon is truly thirst-quenching and cooling in summer.

Appetizers of pink pomelo juice peach, sakura shrimp seaweed sprouts, and tasty sauce flower snails are also exquisitely prepared. The sakura shrimp seaweed sprouts are especially crispy and refreshing, instantly cooling you down.

The Nine-Grid Roast Platter is extremely delicate and visually stunning. Among the nine small dishes, six hold different roast meats, and three are dipping sauces. You can choose your favorite sauce or enjoy the original flavor. The crispy outside and tender inside offer rich layers of texture.

Peach Garden Tri-Colored Chicken, incorporating Three Kingdoms elements. Cantonese love chicken, leading to many preparations. Different tastes of poached chicken and roast chicken create a symphony of flavors in your mouth.

Steamed marble goby with olive oil has a light taste; the fish is fresh and tender, slipping smoothly into the mouth.

Black garlic thin-sliced wagyu beef and seven-spice salt grilled corn hearts – this is my favorite dish. The beef is very tender, with a hint of sweet-and-sour flavor. The thin-sliced style means every bite is superb. You can tell the wagyu is top quality.

Fresh matsutake mushroom clay pot rice with seasonal vegetables – clay pot rice is a traditional Cantonese dish. What I love most is the crispy rice crust on the edge, the soul of the whole dish.

During the Mid-Autumn Festival, The Garden Hotel, Guangzhou will also hold its first Mid-Autumn themed event. All around the hotel, various colorful lanterns await discovery. At the lobby check-in point, a bright moon hangs high – looking up as you enter, you see a full moon suspended there. It’s a rare experience to reunite with family and friends here during the festival.

At the first-floor glass corridor check-in point, pink and purple lanterns hang, with light and shadows filtering through the glass. The reflections of the lanterns are very romantic. Taking photos here with friends is sure to produce Instagram-worthy shots.

The check-in point at Lai Wan Pavilion on the second floor is 'Lychee Tree Adorned with Lanterns'. By Lychee Bay, lanterns of all colors are tied to lychee trees, creating a festive atmosphere. Inside the flower boat, enjoy authentic Cantonese cuisine while celebrating the Mid-Autumn reunion with family.

The most poetic and picturesque check-in point is in the back garden – 'Moonlit Koi'. A bright moon hangs in the sky above a small bridge over flowing water. Colorful lanterns and koi fish shine together, evoking endless thoughts. Mid-Autumn Festival is also about missing distant loved ones. Strolling in this poetic garden is truly idyllic.

At the check-in point of the 1st floor Garden Japanese Restaurant, a 'Jade Rabbit Gazing at the Moon' – so cute you can’t resist taking a photo with it.

[National Day room package] During National Day, there is a special garden suite package, perfect for a family of three. An extra bed is available, so three people can sleep comfortably. Parents and children can enjoy a buffet breakfast at the Waterfall Restaurant, and a family exploration package at Lai Wan Pavilion. Spending two days during the National Day holiday at the Garden Hotel for some family time – you can imagine how joyful that would be. For more details, search WeChat for 'Guangzhou Garden Hotel' official account.

Experiencing what it’s like to live in a garden in Guangzhou – finding tranquility at the Garden Hotel in the bustling downtown – is truly rare. The Lingnan-flavored garden and room allow an outsider like me to learn about Cantonese history and culture. Staying here, you can taste different Cantonese delicacies in a day, blending tradition with trendy innovation. Every time I look out the window at the crisscrossing traffic, I feel peace here. Vacationing at the Garden Hotel, Guangzhou on a hot afternoon makes me not want to rush around to tourist spots but simply savor the various cuisines and enjoy the cozy environment. Perhaps for me, this is also an unforgettable and happy journey.