A Golden Autumn in Guangzhou: Exploring the Dazzle of the New Districts and the Heritage of the Old City

Thanks to my fifth aunt, I studied at the Guangzhou Institute of Foreign Trade (now Guangdong University of Foreign Studies) during university. That's how I came to know Guangzhou's old town and new districts! After graduation, I visited Guangzhou a few times on business, but always in a rush. Later, with a child, we went to Chimelong Safari Park. However, I've always missed the old and new sights within the city.

At a good friend's invitation, my husband and I discussed – since we couldn't leave the province over the National Day holiday, why not head up to the provincial capital! We went for its new look and old charm!

Day 1: Canton Tower

Canton Tower, affectionately called 'Slim Waist,' is Guangzhou's new landmark. Inside the tower, at 428 meters and 433 meters, there are two themed observation decks: Cloud and Starry Sky. With blue sky, white clouds, and dazzling stars, you get a panoramic view of Guangzhou's new central axis and the Pearl River. Both observation decks have a suspended corridor made of fully transparent tempered glass. We arrived at night, so we only saw the twinkling starry sky – an unprecedented feeling of walking on air! Walking up to the Ferris wheel at 460 meters, which has 16 spherical capsules, we lingered on the horizontal Ferris wheel, gazing up at the romantic starry sky, and down at the Pearl River, taking in the gorgeous beauty.

Day 2: Chen Clan Ancestral Hall, Shamian, Yongqing Fang, and Pearl River Night Cruise

The Chen Clan Ancestral Hall was built in the 14th year of the Guangxu reign of the Qing Dynasty (1888). It is one of the most well-preserved and representative late Qing folk buildings in Guangdong, known for its distinctive sculptures. It has an ancient architectural style full of Guangzhou charm and Lingnan character. Even if you don't understand old architecture, just visiting these quiet old halls is a long-held wish. Throughout the hall, in its halls, corridors, courtyards, doors, windows, railings, roof ridges, brick walls, beam frames, and shrines, you'll see wood carvings, stone carvings, brick carvings, ceramic sculptures, stucco relief, and iron casting – vivid in shape and rich in color. Besides the sculptures, the painted decorations are not to be missed. There are thousands of paintings, no two alike in style or design, all born of the artists’ rich imagination, and worth careful appreciation.

Shamian is a very interesting place in Guangzhou. Its architecture showcases the 19th-century European flair of the city. The environment is extremely beautiful, perfect for a stroll, a drink while reminiscing about the past, and gazing at Swan Pond, which adds a special ambiance.

Yongqing Fang is located on Enning Road. This old street was once the economic hub of southern China when it opened as a port in the late Qing Dynasty. Today, it has transformed into Guangzhou's new Instagrammable hotspot. Tradition and modernity collide, history and reality intertwine, and the 'Xiguan flavor' and 'modern chic' stand together without any awkwardness.

The Pearl River night cruise departs from Tianzi Wharf, commonly known as 'Guangzhou's First Wharf.' The Pearl River includes tributaries such as the East River, West River, and North River, which merge at the Guangzhou section. As night falls, the glittering water and brilliant lights create a mesmerizing scene. On the Pearl River night cruise, you can admire the Pearl River Danxin, Canton Tower, and Autumn Moon over the Pearl River, among other 'Yangcheng' (City of Rams) sights, with Guangzhou's local culture unfolding before your eyes.

Day 3: Whampoa Military Academy, Yuyin Shanfang, Nansha Marina

The Whampoa Military Academy is a school that produced many heroes and military leaders. Countless generals and commanders came from here; it was once the cradle of Chinese military strategists. At the main campus, you can see dormitories and classrooms used by former students. Sun Yat-sen's former residence is a two-story yellow house. Bringing kids here is a great idea (even if they won't understand everything).

Yuyin Shanfang was first built in 1866 and is one of Lingnan's four great gardens (alongside Qinghui Garden in Shunde, Liang Garden in Foshan, Yuyin Shanfang in Panyu, and Ke Garden in Dongguan). Compared to the other three, its layout is more intricate. Using the techniques of 'hidden charm' and 'scaled-down grandeur,' it condenses pavilions, terraces, studios, waterside buildings, rockeries, and bridges onto just three mu (about 0.2 hectares) of land, creating a microcosm of nature with gardens within gardens and scenes within scenes, offering a profound and expansive wonderland. Through the meticulous craftsmanship of skilled artisans, the garden’s decorations are rich yet refined, plain yet elegant, giving a sense of tranquility and subtle beauty, as if immersed in 'warm waves and fragrant dust.'

At night, Nansha Marina bustles with energy. Its Southeast Asian architectural style, seaside open-air bars, and moored yachts create a picture of exotic charm. Enjoy the sea breeze, have a drink, and give yourself a full relaxation.

Day 4: Nansha Waterbird World Eco-Park

The Waterbird World Eco-Park is located at the southern tip of Guangzhou, where the Pearl River meets the sea, near the Lingding Ocean, with an excellent natural ecological environment. Known as a 'bird paradise' and the 'kidney of the earth' in Nansha, visitors can interact closely with animals (ostriches, pelicans, peacocks, black swans, etc.) without barriers, as if stepping into a natural ecological habitat. The park is lush with trees; walking inside feels refreshingly cool! The bamboo-woven structures are truly breathtaking, a feast for the eyes thanks to the collaboration between craftsmen and designers.

Day 5: Shawan Ancient Town

Shawan Ancient Town was first established during the Song Dynasty, with a history of over 800 years. It is a well-preserved ancient town in the Panyu area and a representative of Guangfu folk culture. Chebei Street was historically a renowned street where wealthy families lived, while Anning West Street is a typical prosperous rural market street in the Lingnan Pearl River Delta. Liugeng Hall is the ancestral hall of the He family in Shawan, with a solemn layout, grand scale, and exquisite workmanship, making it an iconic building of Shawan Ancient Town. Shawan's folk culture is well worth seeing; it is the birthplace of Guangdong music, and the 'Three Masters of the He Family' along with the traditional folk art 'Shawan Floating Colors' are celebrated far and wide. Various folk activities are held here during traditional festivals, making it very lively.

Eating in Guangzhou – The food is not to be missed; seeking out flavors is an essential part of the journey.

Taotao Ju – You can just give it a casual try; there are plenty of other restaurants with better food.

Hao Guang Chi – Next to the Chen Clan Ancestral Hall, with authentic dim sum and a rich local buzz. Highly recommended.

The restaurant by the Pearl River night cruise – Roast suckling pig. One serving is definitely not enough for three!

Junxiao Farmhouse – Roast goose and steamed grass carp. Very homestyle flavors.

Nansha Ming Ji Farmhouse – Sesame-fragrant chicken, white horn fish (you'll be lucky to find it).

Shisiyong Seafood Market – Buy fresh and cook on the spot, bustling with energy. You can see the freshness. Don't miss the double-shell crab!

Zhou Xing Yuan – Rice porridge hotpot. A unique and special taste.

Shawan's ginger milk curd and traditional Cantonese wonton noodles. No matter how much you eat, you'll always want more!!!!

In golden October, touring the provincial capital, the new districts dazzle, the old town's heritage endures, natural scenery, cultural geography – all in countless forms. Guangzhou is worth visiting again and again!

Written on October 5th at Shawan Ancient Town