Yangshuo in the Summer of This Year

Day 1: Hangzhou – Guilin Liangjiang Airport – Yangshuo – West Street

Day 2: Yangshuo – Li River Essence Tour (Yangdi Dock – Xingping Dock) – Silver Cave – West Street

Day 3: Yangshuo – Yulong River Jinlong Bridge Dock – Old County (Cycling) – Yangshuo – Impression Liu Sanjie

Day 4: Yangshuo – West Street (Buying Souvenirs) – Guilin

Day 5: Guilin – Hangzhou

Hangzhou – Guilin: Shandong Airlines SC4951

Guilin Liangjiang Airport – Civil Aviation Building (about 1 hour, fare: 20 yuan)

Civil Aviation Building – Guilin Railway Station: Taxi, fare: 20 yuan

Guilin Bus Station – Yangshuo North Station: Time: 1 hour 40 minutes, fare: 25 yuan

Yangshuo North Station – Hotel: Bus: 1 yuan, take bus from Yangshuo North Station to Yangshuo South Station and get off at West Street stop

Hotel – West Street: Walk, 5 minutes

Yangshuo North Station – Yangdi Dock: Fare: 7 yuan, Time: about 1 hour

Xingping Bus Station – Yangshuo North Station: Fare: 7 yuan, Time: 40 minutes

Yangshuo Park – Silver Cave (booked tickets through Sanjie Travel Agency, includes shuttle bus)

Yangshuo North Station – Yulong River Jinlong Bridge Dock: Fare: 7 yuan, Time: 30 minutes

Yangshuo North Station – Guilin Station: Fare: 25 yuan, Time: 1 hour 40 minutes

◆Hotel Accommodation:

Banshan Garden Hotel [Recommended]

Rosewood Western Restaurant, Master Chef Beer Fish, West Street Snack Street

◆Food Recommendations:

Wood-fired pizza, mango smoothie, pork chop bun, German hot dog, beer fish, stuffed snails, Qingbuliang (a sweet soup)...

When I was a child, there was a song called 'I Want to Go to Guilin'; a saying, 'Guilin's scenery is the best under heaven'; a buzzword, 'Travel with the RMB', one of which is the 20 yuan note featuring the Li River landscape; several times we planned to travel but postponed for various reasons. Now we can finally have a spontaneous trip. How about Guilin, Yangshuo, and the Li River landscape?...

This was truly the most spontaneous of all trips. In early June, I decided to take a vacation at the end of July, but hadn't decided on a destination. Two weeks before departure, I was still debating where to go, finally chose Guilin, and then just went.

The original plan was: fly to Guilin on the first day, then take a bus to Yangshuo, spend 3 days in Yangshuo, then go to Longji Rice Terraces, with Guilin only as a transit point without much sightseeing. But due to time and other reasons, I gave up Longji Rice Terraces, which was the only regret of this trip. Maybe it's a reason for me to go again next time~~~~~ Arrived at Liangjiang Airport, got off the plane, took the airport bus at the entrance (fare: 20 yuan), arrived at the Civil Aviation Building in about 40 minutes, then took a taxi to the bus station. The taxi cost 20 yuan (no meter), and we were four people, so about 5 yuan per person. Like in any city, there were people shouting at the bus station, 'Yangshuo, Yangshuo, leaving now!' Those buses probably stop along the way. In the end, we chose the direct bus from Guilin Bus Station to Yangshuo, 22 yuan, about 1.5 hours. Along the way, I observed this most important tourist city in a once highly turbulent province. Some sections of the road to Yangshuo were very bumpy, even if not highways, they should be provincial roads. Well, the economy is different...

I booked Banshan Garden Hotel in advance through Ctrip. From the bus station, took the bus to the hotel. Got off at West Street stop, walked to the alley next to the Industrial and Commercial Bank – the hotel is there. The location is excellent, close to the bus station and the bustling West Street area, yet quiet and peaceful.

The environment is unique, very retro and Chinese, but serves Western food – an interesting combination.

After resting, I went out for a stroll. Hadn't eaten much besides the airplane meal, so first to fill my stomach! Walked through Cassia Flower Lane and found the highly popular Rosewood Restaurant. Indeed, the food was good. The environment was also distinctive, with a large fireplace and European-style décor. The wood-fired pizza was thin-crust and really fragrant.

Most people were out sightseeing, so it was quiet and peaceful, and souvenirs were cheaper.

West Street is actually the busiest street in Yangshuo. Because of its fame and representativeness, many travel notes refer to the entire central area of Yangshuo as West Street. The whole town has many crisscrossing alleys, easy to get lost the first time, but after walking more, it becomes familiar. No need for a map; just wander freely.

West Street is very lively – places to eat, drink, and have fun, including lively bars. Suitable for young people!

At night, West Street is the most bustling. During the day, most people are out playing, but at night it's crowded with people. Browse the unique shops, buy various small items, and there are also bars, of course. Since business is slower during the day, it's better to buy souvenirs in daytime when you can bargain; street stalls only come out at night~~~

Master Chef Beer Fish

In Yangshuo West Street and the town, beer fish is everywhere. On our first day, of course we had to try it! We saw many restaurants with the Master Chef Beer Fish sign. Crispy fish skin, tender meat, with a light wine aroma – indeed a great dish and a Yangshuo specialty!

Today's highlight is the Li River rafting. Although 'Guilin's scenery is best under heaven', that scenery mostly describes the Li River, and the essence of the Li River is actually in Yangshuo. The previous afternoon, we inquired at several travel agencies. The rafting prices were similar. Compared to Yulong River, it felt a bit expensive (more on that later). There are three sections to choose: Xingping to Nine Horses Fresco, Yangdi to Nine Horses Fresco, Yangdi to Xingping; and another section seen online, Guanyan to Yangdi to Xingping, but few sell that. We chose the longest and most classic: Yangdi to Xingping. One raft can hold 4 people; 300 yuan for 2 people, 480 for 4 people. It's a motorized bamboo raft, quite large, fitting four comfortably. If you don't have enough people, consider sharing with other tourists. It's best to start early, as the large tourist boats from Guilin arrive around noon, causing big waves and ruining the beauty, and more people later.

'Guilin's scenery is best under heaven' – to truly appreciate the Li River's beauty, you must take a motorized bamboo raft in Yangshuo.

Arrived at Yangdi, called the rafter whose number was on the ticket. He would buy the tickets first, then we boarded together. The Li River rafting is now government-managed, seemingly standardized, but expensive, and it's said most of the revenue goes to the government; the rafter only earns a few dozen yuan per trip. One trip takes about 4-6 hours, and often only one trip per day. It's worse on the Yulong River; Li River rafts are motorized, allowing the rafter to use a small motor, while Yulong River rafts are entirely hand-poled, much harder, yet they earn little... Rafters have a tough life.

Before departure, the rafter asked if we were in a hurry. If not, he would drift slowly, letting us enjoy the Li River's beauty. In suitable spots for photos or shallow water, he would stop and let us play, not urging us to move on. Near noon, he brought us to a farmhouse for lunch. It's said rafters get commissions, but that's fine as long as the prices are reasonable and the food is good. The farmhouse he took us to was excellent, especially the recommended Li River sword bone fish – firm, fresh meat, tough skin rich in collagen, priced at about 69 yuan per jin (500g). We ordered two more dishes, and the total was about 50 yuan per person, quite acceptable. In some travel notes, people invited the rafter to eat with them. Our rafter, though dark and sturdy, was shy; when we invited him, he declined and chatted with other rafters. I didn't see him eat later – maybe he didn't? Too bad the ticket had his number but we lost it, and I forgot his surname, otherwise I could recommend him.

After lunch, we continued drifting, passing the Nine Horses Fresco – actually a cliff face with rocks of different colors forming patterns like a horse painting. The rafter said most people can't see all nine horses; a saying goes if you see seven, you'll be a top scholar, if you see nine, you'll be the champion. I didn't see nine, so I can't become the champion...

After the Nine Horses Fresco, drifting a bit more, we reached the 20 yuan RMB scenery spot. There's a rock for photos – a classic 'I was here' shot.

Overall, the Li River is truly beautiful – grand compared to the landscapes of Jiangnan. Drifting quietly on the river, letting your mind go blank, feeling time stand still, all worries disappear. I really want to be a rafter on the Li River – since the bamboo rafts are motorized, no need to paddle, drifting daily amidst such beautiful scenery – how pleasant would that be?...

Arriving at Xingping, we took a free electric cart to the bus station to catch a minibus back to Yangshuo (valid with ticket – keep it safe). If you have time, you can get off before the bus station and visit Xingping Ancient Town, which is said to be nice. The town leads to the bus station.

Silver Cave is in Lipu County, famous for Lipu taro, haha~~~ Silver Cave is a typical karst cave, spanning twelve peaks, a multi-layered cave including a grand hall, upper and lower sections. The tour takes about 2 hours, with some walking up and down. Inside, stalactites from different geological ages shine brilliantly, white and flawless, like the Milky Way pouring down. Due to special minerals, they sparkle like silver and diamonds under lights, hence the name 'Silver Cave'. Different ages of stalactites show different colors. It's far more spectacular than the small caves in Zhejiang. Particularly magnificent are the silver diamonds, with still water below reflecting them like a vast waterfall! Also the 'Jade Pool Fairyland' is even more beautiful with its mirror-like reflection. In short, don't think it's just an ordinary cave – it's eye-opening. Recommended.

Entrance fee plus round-trip transport: 100 yuan per person, also booked through the inn. If I remember correctly, there are three departures daily: 9am, 2pm, and 3pm. Since our Li River rafting in the morning would be long, we chose the 3pm slot. Just wait at the designated spot, and a bus will come – very convenient.

Today's highlight is naturally the Yulong River rafting. Prices vary significantly; a raft holds only 2 people, and expensive quotes can be 300 yuan. There are more options: Chaoyang to Gongnong Bridge, Xinglong District, Jinlong Bridge to Old County. Some say if you haven't been to Fuli Bridge, you haven't truly visited Yulong River, so I requested to go from Jinlong Bridge upstream to Fuli Bridge, then back to Jinlong Bridge, then to Old County. Some travel agencies don't offer the upstream segment. In the end, our inn offered the best price: 210 yuan for a private raft covering two sections (we booked two rafts). We also booked tickets for the first show of Impression Liu Sanjie for the evening. After asking a few agencies, the inn gave the best price: 350 yuan for two VIP seats.

Again, it's best to start early to avoid crowds; the calm Yulong River is more beautiful. Take the Jinbao minibus from the bus station to Jinlong Bridge Dock – remember to ask for the Baisha direction. The rafting ends at Old County. For the return, we planned to rent bicycles and cycle back to Yangshuo, enjoying the rural scenery along the way.

If the Li River is grand and majestic like a well-bred lady, then the Yulong River is more like the landscapes of Jiangnan – graceful and delicate, like a maiden from a small family. The Li River is wide with high mountains on both sides; the Yulong River is narrower, with mountains and rural fields. When there are few boats and the water is calm, the Yulong River resembles an ink-wash painting. On the Li River, you occasionally hear the motor of bamboo rafts (not always on) or the sound of large boats, while the Yulong River is quieter and more comfortable. Floating along, I almost wanted to take a nap! The rafts on the Yulong River are small, seating only two. Entirely hand-poled by the rafter, they work even harder! The raft is small, without a floorboard like the Li River rafts, so water seeps through the bamboo gaps. Also, there are some descents that splash water, so we recommend wearing quick-dry clothes and sandals or slippers – avoid long jeans. The whole rafting takes about 4 hours. Also, the Li River rafts have canopies, while the Yulong River rafts have a large umbrella but still offer little protection from the strong sun, so sun protection is essential!

After arriving at Old County and disembarking, there are bicycle rentals nearby. The rental price is standard: 15 yuan per day, 100 yuan deposit per bike, but the bikes vary in quality. We test-rode and chose a shop with Giant bikes for easier cycling.

Cycling from Old County back to Yangshuo, without detours, takes about an hour. We first cycled back to the inn, had lunch, and took a short rest. Then we set out again, planning to take a route on the map that goes deeper into the mountains, reportedly leading to the Yulong River along its banks. We cycled for a long time on a dusty main road until we reached what we thought was the mountain entrance. We asked two locals passing by, and they said the round trip would take a lot of time. Afraid of being late for the Impression Liu Sanjiie show, and also worried about getting lost, plus the area was surrounded by high mountains with a single narrow path and almost no people – it felt a bit eerie. So we decided to turn back. Next time, I'll make sure to ask for a clear route and set aside enough time for cycling.

But the cycle ride from Old County back to Yangshuo already offered beautiful rural scenery. I recommend cycling through the countryside in Yangshuo!

Compared to other Impression series, this one seemed average.

Impression Liu Sanjie was the first of the Impression series. I've only seen Impression West Lake; compared to that, I found Impression Liu Sanjie quite average. Maybe I don't appreciate it. But someone behind me said they had seen it several times and it seemed to get worse each year, with sloppy performances. Still, since we came, we had to see a local specialty show, otherwise it would feel like we hadn't been there. So it's still recommended! It integrates the Li River landscape with Guangxi's minority culture, plus the large-scale environmental lighting art of the Impression series – overall quite spectacular.

Like with Silver Cave, after buying tickets, wait at the designated spot and a bus will take you to the Li River Theater. After the show, the same bus takes you back. But there were so many people that just getting from the parking lot to the exit took about 20 minutes. The Li River Theater is actually not far from West Street; if you know the way, walking might be faster!

The only regret of this trip was not going to Longji. Actually, we could have gone to Longji before going to Yangshuo. Maybe it's an opportunity to come to Guilin again.

Finally, it's time to leave Guilin. As always, the hardest part of ending a trip is leaving behind the leisurely vacation and relaxed mood. Going back means being busy again, sigh~~~~

Goodbye, Yangshuo; goodbye, Li River; goodbye, Yulong River; goodbye, Chunji Roasted Goose! I've already planned my next trip: Guilin to Longji, see the terraces then turn to Guilin and Yangshuo, drift on Yulong River again, and go cycling! I will come again!