The Ming and Qing Dynasty District at the Foot of the Prince City, Larger than Wuhan's Hubu Alley: Guilin's East-West Alley Revives Its Bustle
The city walls are overgrown with grass.
Guilin's new landmark, Jingjiang Prince's Mansion and East-West Alley, brimming with historical remnants. Text and photos by Liu Guoxiong.
Guilin is a historic city, and I used to visit it often. But none of those trips were as in-depth or high-profile as the one I took last year to participate in the 2019 China-ASEAN Expo Tourism Exhibition Scouting Tour. Let's put it this way: this scouting trip offered relatively upscale accommodation, dining, and transportation, aiming to show that traveling to Guilin and Liuzhou doesn't have to be budget travel – you can also come here to indulge and experience a slow-paced life.
Now it takes only two hours from Nanning to Guilin by bullet train, which is very convenient. On the afternoon of October 17, 2019, I arrived at Guilin Station. As soon as I got off the train, I had the organizer pick me up and take me to East-West Alley to meet up with the media scouting group. The driver took me to the alley entrance near Liberation Bridge by the Li River, saying that cars weren't allowed inside. From there, I would see the Jingjiang Prince's Mansion.
It was my first time entering Donghua Street, and I noticed that the buildings along the street were all designed in an antique style. When I arrived at the Jingjiang Prince's Mansion and just stepped through the main gate, I ran into the main group coming out. I didn't even have time to look around, so I missed it this time. I then followed the group to explore East-West Alley.
The East-West Alley district is located in the downtown area of Guilin. It consists of two alleys on the left and right in front of the Zhengyang Gate of Solitary Beauty Peak and the Jingjiang Prince's Mansion. It officially opened as a new street in 2016. Two years ago, I passed through Guilin on my way to Congjiang, Guizhou, and stayed overnight. I came here out of curiosity that evening and found very few people and few shops open. I never expected that this time, despite a light rain, the place would be bustling with activity – all the shops, big and small, were open. It turns out East-West Alley had become a new hot tourist attraction in Guilin.
The Jingjiang Prince's Mansion, where East-West Alley is located, was the residence of the Ming Dynasty princes in Guilin. Fourteen generations of Jingjiang princes lived in this mansion. Because of its prominent location, it has always been a bustling area. The current East-West Alley is promoted as a Ming and Qing Dynasty district, with buildings and streets restored to their old appearance – black bricks, black tiles, red windows, wooden doors, and ancient city walls – all exuding an antique charm and full of historical remnants. Walking through it gives you a sense of traveling back in time. The area is large, even bigger than Wuhan's Hubu Alley. It is now quite prosperous, and I hope it will become increasingly well-known in the future.
View of Liberation Bridge from the car
View of the newly built Xiaoyao Tower from the car
Donghua Road along the Li River
Wangfu Garden – a residential community
Alley on the right side of the main gate of Jingjiang Prince's Mansion
On the left is Jiangnan Alley
Ancient city wall at the main gate of Jingjiang Prince's Mansion
Gate archway of the main wall
On this wall are the large characters “Zhuangyuan Jidi” (Top Scholar in Imperial Exam)
Following the main group, I came out and wandered through East-West Alley
The buildings in East-West Alley are restored in an antique style
There are some small alleys where you can take your time to explore
Many store signs
Also shops selling handicrafts
This row of small huts sells various items
Walking through the ancient alley in the rain, the stone slabs underfoot are smooth and shiny
An introduction to the ancient city wall: The Jingjiang Prince City has a history of over 600 years, and the most typical remaining example is this weathered ancient city wall
East-West Alley is a great place for photos
A street for buying local specialties