Self-Drive Tour | Living Amidst Yangshuo's Mountains and Waters, Savoring Local Cuisine, Enjoying a Different Slow Life

Staying at home for too long always makes me miss the outside world, the green mountains and clear waters.

For me, being on the road has always been a joyful thing. After spending months at home, I long for the time to meet the sun again.

So I came to Yangshuo once more, hoping to sweep away the gloom of this period amidst the green mountains and clear waters, and to seek beautiful days among them.

Day 1: Self-drive from Guangzhou – Check into Backyard Inn (Yulong River Branch) – Leisurely afternoon tea – Dinner at the inn

Day 2: Walk through Chuanyan Village – Sister Liu Beer Fish – Ten-Mile Gallery – Watch sunset over Yulong River at Gongnong Bridge – Local Farmhouse Cuisine

Day 3: Qingjiang Ferry – BBQ dinner

Day 4: Outdoor Adventure ATV Base – ATV off-road driving – Return trip

Day 1 – Check-in – Backyard Inn – Yulong River Branch

This time to Yangshuo, I didn't choose public transport like high-speed rail. Taking advantage of the still-free highways, I decided to drive to Yangshuo. It's quite convenient to drive from Guangzhou to Yangshuo. Starting from Guangzhou, passing through Huaiji and then Hezhou, as the distance from Guangzhou increases, the scenery along the way becomes more refined and elegant.

Arriving in Yangshuo, I chose to stay at the Backyard Inn in the Yulong River Big Banyan Tree Scenic Area. It wasn't my first time in Yangshuo, so I didn't book a hotel in the county town but chose the quieter Yulong River area.

The Yulong River has always been a core scenic area of Yangshuo, with clear and beautiful mountains on both banks, earning it the title of Ten-Mile Gallery. The Backyard Inn is located across from the Big Banyan Tree scenic area on the Yulong River, built alongside the water. My greatest expectation and purpose for this trip was to spend quiet time here, watching the flow of the Yulong River and the bamboo groves.

Upon arriving at the Backyard Inn, I dropped off my luggage and spent a good while just lounging in the inn. In spring in Yangshuo, the sunlight may not be bright, but the misty and rainy Guilin has a more elegant charm.

The Backyard Inn is not tall, a five-story building where each floor offers views of the bamboo groves, the flowing Yulong River, and the beauty of the Ten-Mile Gallery. Entering the room, it was very suitable for a vacation. The room was spacious, and as soon as I walked in, there was a large bathtub. Soaking in a bath during a journey is also a good way to wash away travel fatigue and relax both body and mind.

The room's decoration had a classical charm, with many traditional ornaments that showed the owner's care and craftsmanship. What I loved most was the balcony. Each floor's balcony faced the Yulong River, offering a direct view of the thousand-year-old banyan tree. It was a great enjoyment.

Besides staying in the room, sitting on the first floor amidst blooming flowers, looking at the clear swimming pool, having a cup of coffee, looking at flowers, reading a book, or just zoning out was also a happy thing.

Of course, coming here, I didn't waste the beauty of spring. After lounging for a while at the inn, I drank a cup of coffee. The aroma of coffee in the garden surrounded by flowers washed away the fatigue of the journey. Next, I wanted to see the nearby scenery.

Leisurely afternoon tea

In the afternoon, I chose not to go out. I stayed at the inn. By the pool, I ordered a delicate afternoon tea. Although the weather was a bit cold to swim, I just lazily lay in the tent by the pool, enjoyed a piece of delicious cake, and had a cup of aromatic coffee. Half-asleep and half-awake, the afternoon was leisurely and beautiful.

For dinner, I didn't eat out but had it at the inn. The green mountains and clear waters of Yangshuo nurture various fresh ingredients, and these wild ingredients are always exceptionally fresh and delicious. The most famous are the various river delicacies from the Li River.

The clear waters of the Li River produce a variety of fresh river delicacies. Li River fish is an unmissable delicacy, and for dinner, I chose fish as the main ingredient.

The chef sliced the fresh Li River fish into fillets, fried the bones until fragrant, and boiled them into a soup base. Then he added the fresh fish fillets, letting them cook briefly in the rich fish soup before they were ready to eat. The fish was tender and sweet, simple yet exceptionally delicious because of the fresh ingredients and the flavorful soup prepared by the chef.

Other dishes were also delicious.

Day 2 – Walk through Chuanyan Village

Next to the inn is the countryside. Due to its geographical advantage, the village has many homestays. The quiet village, along with various exquisite homestays full of the owners' ideas, seemed to have become a unique scenery here.

Of course, there are also attractions like Liu Sanjie's former residence, worth visiting. In Guilin, Liu Sanjie is always a legendary name. This legendary woman with a moving voice left beautiful tales of pursuing love and freedom, which have been passed down to this day. Liu Sanjie's former residence records the story of this legendary woman. The house looks a bit dilapidated, but this kind of atmosphere fits the memory of a "former residence". The outer walls are covered with many murals depicting agricultural scenes of Guangxi. This rural charm is also very touching.

Sister Liu Beer Fish

For lunch, I chose Sister Liu Beer Fish to taste Yangshuo's specialty cuisine. Beer fish is a local specialty of Yangshuo, and there are many beer fish restaurants on the streets. But Sister Liu Beer Fish has always been a favorite flavor in Yangshuo. Whether beer fish is delicious depends not only on fresh ingredients but also on the sauce, which is indispensable. Fish from the Li River, combined with a sauce that is an intangible cultural heritage, creates delicious beer fish. Of course, at Sister Liu Beer Fish, there is more than just beer fish.

Wrapped in fresh leaves, the pork absorbs the natural fresh fragrance of the leaves. Without greasiness, even eating several pieces doesn't feel fatty.

The pork ribs are very tender; gnawing on the bones and meat is very flavorful. Roasted, the cooking method draws out the fat. With delicious seasonings, the ribs are even more fragrant.

Around Qingming Festival, there are many wild vegetables in Yangshuo, including wild chives. Scrambled eggs with wild chives require no complicated cooking. The aroma of free-range eggs with the fragrant chives makes a delicious combination.

Lipu taro from Guangxi is very famous, highly aromatic, and very soft and sticky. Making taro in a pressure cooker makes it soft and glutinous, simple yet delicious.

Wild bamboo shoots, available only in spring, are very crisp and have a fresh scent. Stir-fried with pork belly, the fat flavor of the pork belly makes the bamboo shoots even more aromatic.

Small Li River shrimp are very fresh and sweet. The chef first fries them until fragrant, then stir-fries them with fragrant tea leaves. The simple Li River shrimp become aromatic, retaining their original sweetness and crispness. It's an excellent appetizer for drinks.

At Sister Liu Beer Fish, the highlight is of course the beer fish. The sesame sword fish from the Li River is used; its flesh is firm and sweet, with very few bones, so you don't have to worry about eating it. The chef first cleans the fish, then brings it to the table. The server stir-fries green pepper slices, ginger slices, and onions in a pot, then adds the cleaned fish, and finally adds the sauce and self-brewed beer. Then you wait for the delicious beer fish to cook. Sister Liu Beer Fish thoughtfully provides a small hourglass. When the sand runs out, the beer fish is ready. Opening the pot lid, the aroma fills the air. The sweet fish with the rich sauce is the most touching flavor of beer fish.

Stewing chicken soup in bamboo tubes is a special cooking method in Guilin. The bamboo's fragrance penetrates the chicken soup, and the free-range chicken is firm and very delicious.

Now at Sister Liu Beer Fish, you can also bring the deliciousness of beer fish home. The special sauces are available in convenient bagged form, making them an excellent souvenir from Yangshuo.

Waking up on the second day, after enjoying a simple and delicious breakfast at the inn, I continued to focus on the Yulong River. The banks of the Yulong River are always full of scenery. Since it's called Ten-Mile Gallery, every spot is a painting. Walking here is like walking in a painting.

Due to the mountains and special karst landforms, the width of the Yulong River changes endlessly. On wide stretches, the Yulong River flows quietly. On windless days, the wide river is like a tranquil mirror, quiet and moving. On narrow stretches, the river becomes more unrestrained, offering a different charm.

Along the Yulong River, there are many villages. Local farmers have planted various plants along the riverbank. Different seasons and months bring different flowers. In March and April, the most touching are the rapeseed flowers.

Under the spring sunshine of March and April, vast fields of rapeseed flowers are gorgeous and golden. The sea of rapeseed flowers is a unique beauty beneath the elegant mountains.

Watch sunset over Yulong River at Gongnong Bridge

The Yulong River is the most concentrated area of beautiful scenery in Yangshuo, and Gongnong Bridge is one of its landmarks.

Gongnong Bridge is next to the Yulong River Big Banyan Tree scenic area. It is the starting and ending point for bamboo raft rides on the Yulong River. During peak times, you can see a hundred rafts competing, which is lively and moving.

This time at Gongnong Bridge, there were no bustling bamboo rafts, but the quietness brought a different scenery and flavor. On the bridge, on one side is the big banyan tree. The Yulong River passes through the elegant mountains, flowing quietly beside the big banyan tree.

In the evening, I chose to dine at a nearby farmhouse restaurant. "Farmhouse cuisine" sounds like a rustic name, but it uses many locally produced ingredients. Following the principle of eating only seasonal foods, they select various seasonal ingredients, which are even fresher and more delicious.

Sweet Li River fish, small fish are first deep-fried, then stir-fried with chili and other ingredients. The fish is fragrant, with the flavors of other ingredients, making it very appetizing.

Sweet Li River shrimp are simply boiled. Just dip them in a little soy sauce to bring out the full freshness of the small shrimp. Simple is delicious.

Thunder fungus is a special type of fungus here, found only after rain. It is crisp, and stir-fried with pickled beans and chili peppers, it goes very well with rice.

Steamed Li River fish and whole-eel oil-fried eel are both delicious sweet ingredients. Without complicated cooking, just highlighting the original taste of the ingredients is already very delicious.

Local free-range chicken has firm flesh and crisp skin. Cooked with termite mushrooms in soup, the broth is sweet, and the chicken is also very tasty.

Large river snails have crisp meat. Stuffed with minced pork, the texture of the pork and snail meat blends together, creating Yangshuo's famous dish: stuffed snails.

Simple farmhouse dishes preserve the deliciousness of the ingredients. Simple yet returning to nature, there is a kind of beauty. Amidst the green mountains and clear waters, the true delicacies are not exotic foods but these local ingredients. A meal of farmhouse cuisine can satisfy even gourmands.

Day 3 – Qingjiang Ferry

On the third day, I slept in at the inn, then headed to Qingjiang Ferry. It takes about 20 minutes by car from Yangshuo county to Qingjiang Ferry.

Qingjiang Ferry covers a large area. From the foot of the mountain to the top where Qingjiang Ferry is located, the scenery along the way is beautiful. Halfway up the mountain, looking at the villages and scenery below, there is a peaceful and tranquil feeling. Qingjiang Ferry is vast. Walking in from the gate, you see the rural charm everywhere. Qingjiang Ferry has its own farm, its own mountains and lakes. Because of this, the ingredients at Qingjiang Ferry come from its own farm, exceptionally fresh. Here, you can cook delicious food with the ingredients yourself. The large earthen kiln is perfect for roasting kiln chicken. Clean the local chicken, apply seasoning, wrap it in aluminum foil, and roast it in the earthen kiln for 40 minutes. The kiln chicken is ready to eat. Besides chicken, you can also roast corn, sweet potatoes, and other ingredients in the kiln. The food made in the earthen kiln using the most traditional method is simple, retaining the freshness and deliciousness of the ingredients, very touching. At Qingjiang Ferry's restaurant, there are also many simple and delicious dishes to choose from.

For dinner, I chose poolside barbecue at the inn. Under the peaceful night sky of Yangshuo, charcoal sparks dotted the poolside. The chef grilled a variety of delicious foods over charcoal.

Fresh oysters were sweet and delicious; pork belly was fragrant without being greasy. With refreshing beer, this night, with a slight tipsiness, falling asleep in the sweet air here was beautiful...

Day 4 – Outdoor Adventure ATV Base

Having been to Yangshuo many times, I didn't choose familiar spots like West Street in the afternoon. Instead, I chose a more niche and fun activity.

Off-roading is an activity full of masculine energy. The roar and lines of an ATV get your blood pumping. Driving through muddy roads and crossing puddles are the greatest joys of off-roading.

At the outdoor adventure ATV base, you can choose from ATVs (sand buggies), go-karts, and SUVs. Each type of off-road vehicle offers a different thrill.

ATVs have the strongest torque, while go-karts have the lowest chassis, giving the best sense of speed close to the ground. As for SUVs, with their high ground clearance, they can easily handle both gravel and muddy roads, and even drive directly on riverbeds, making them most suitable for challenging various terrains.

Climbing into the off-road vehicle, the roar of the accelerator gets your adrenaline pumping. Driving an off-road vehicle along country roads, deliberately choosing muddy or rough paths, with Yangshuo's elegant mountains on both sides and bumpy roads beneath, is the most fun way to enjoy an off-road vehicle.

Leaving Yangshuo always fills me with reluctance. I hate to leave the green mountains and clear waters, the sweet air. But perhaps what I hate to leave even more is the leisure here. Without the hustle and bustle of the city, here I can daydream, waste a lot of time, taste delicious food, and feel the beauty of natural ingredients. That is the reason to come to Yangshuo.