A Vacation in Guilin

Since the outbreak of the pandemic, I haven't traveled far. Counting on my fingers, it's been over nine months. Now the domestic epidemic has been brought under control, and governments at all levels have begun adopting various measures to encourage people to travel, aiming to stimulate the recovery of related industries through tourism. We also felt that, given the current anti-epidemic situation, long-distance travel within the country was feasible. So in mid-August, we arranged to go on a vacation in Guilin with close family members.

Although the domestic epidemic has been controlled, sporadic cases still appear in some places. Therefore, epidemic prevention measures in the tourism industry have not been relaxed at all. When we arrived at Pudong Airport, the first thing was to check the health code. Only a green health code allowed entry. The health code is an innovative method of tracking health information pioneered in China. Its use relies on the widespread use of smartphones and full coverage of mobile signals. Mobile signal coverage depends on the number of base stations. Currently, China has about 3 million 4G base stations, accounting for 60% of the world's total. This is why many epidemic prevention methods can be implemented here but are difficult abroad—the hardware conditions are insufficient from a technical perspective. Everyone in the airport voluntarily wore masks without objection. The Chinese people's self-discipline and the traditional norm of subordinating individual will to the collective have made epidemic prevention measures effective.

There were not many travelers at the airport. Only about ten security checkpoints for domestic flights were open, with each queue holding around a dozen people—a stark contrast to the bustling scenes of the past. Even fewer passengers were at the international flight security checkpoints, which could be described as desolate. Indeed, the epidemic abroad has not been effectively controlled. Under such circumstances, even if someone paid me, I wouldn't dare to travel abroad.

Entering the terminal, I saw only domestic airline planes parked at the jet bridges. There were no foreign passenger planes on the tarmac, only two or three foreign cargo planes loading and unloading goods. The pandemic has dealt a fatal and long-term blow to the tourism industry. According to the latest estimates from the International Air Transport Association, it may take until 2024 for the aviation industry to recover to pre-pandemic levels.

Stepping onto Guilin's soil after disembarking, we had to check the health code again—truly a multi-layered defense. For this trip, we stayed at Club Med Guilin. The focus was leisure, with sightseeing as a secondary activity. Upon entering the resort, we checked the health code once more to ensure no one from high-risk areas entered. I think that the reason China has been able to thoroughly control the epidemic is not only due to people's conscious compliance with prevention rules but also because all industries strictly implement measures. Westerners' self-centered nature makes it impossible for them to achieve this.

Club Med Guilin is a fantastic resort. Covering over 800 mu, it is surrounded by mountains. There are large, lush green lawns, dense pine forests with thriving branches and leaves, and ponds of various sizes with rippling clear water. The resort has a modern layout—the guest rooms, lobby, restaurant, and tea lounge are all stylishly designed. Scattered along the roads, among trees, ponds, and lawns, are many modern-style sculptures. Most are made of granite with unique shapes, mostly geometric blocks like rectangles, spheres, and triangles, offering endless imagination to visitors.

Standing in the resort and looking around, the surrounding mountains undulate in the distance. Guilin's characteristic rounded peaks rise and fall, forming a perfect backdrop for the resort. The dark green of the forests and the emerald green of the lawns bring a touch of coolness under the scorching sun. The outdoor pool sparkles with a soft, deep blue light. The resort itself is a 4A-level scenic area with stunning scenery. In my opinion, it's as good as any four- or five-star scenic spot elsewhere.

The resort is well-equipped. Besides the standard pool and gym, it has archery fields, tennis courts, a golf course, rock climbing, trapeze, and other entertainment facilities not commonly found in hotels.

In the early morning, just after sunrise, the sunlight was not harsh. The gentle rays fell on the earth and through the sparse pine forest. Tree shadows stretched long, casting strips of light on the grass. Early birds chirped on the branches, and cicadas sang vigorously in the treetops. This reminded me of the ancient poetic line: "The chirping of cicadas makes the forest seem quieter; the singing of birds makes the mountain feel more secluded." At that time, the resort was still asleep. The paths were quiet, with only the occasional elderly person doing morning exercises. The morning resort was immersed in a peaceful and natural atmosphere.

During the day, we either played tennis on the court, experiencing the freedom of swinging the racket; shot arrows at the archery field, feeling the heroic spirit of "drawing a bow like a full moon"; swam in the pool, enjoying the fun of cutting through the waves; strolled on mountain paths, seeking a leisurely pace of life; or swung clubs at the golf driving range, appreciating the elegance of this niche sport. However, being older, we couldn't climb cliffs or swing in the air like a pendulum to complete an aerial leap. If we were younger, there would be more activities to try and more fun to have.

The resort's meals were buffet-style, with a wide variety of options blending Chinese and Western cuisines. Each meal also included wine, ice cream, and various beverages. The lobby bar continuously offered tea and cocktails. Hygiene management in the dining area was very strict; masks were required when entering the serving area, and staff constantly reminded guests to cooperate.

Every evening, the resort held colorful entertainment parties to interact with guests. These interactive programs were lively and fun, especially popular with children. Most of the guests were parents with kids on summer vacation, taking the opportunity to relax and enjoy a wonderful holiday. This reminded me of my trip a few years ago to the AMC Royal Hotel on the Red Sea in Egypt. That place had a similar resort model—all-inclusive with food, accommodation, and activities, allowing guests to eat, drink, and play heartily without leaving the hotel. Many European and American tourists came there with their families for a relaxed and carefree holiday.

Staying at the resort, we could have plenty of fun without going out. But I had never been to Guilin before. Since I was young, I had heard the saying "Guilin's landscape is the best under heaven" and seen pictures of Elephant Trunk Hill. I was eager to see the real beauty of Guilin's mountains and waters. So we took some time to tour Guilin and Yangshuo.

The resort is about an hour's drive from Guilin city. We rented a car for a day trip to Guilin.

In the city center, we first visited the Li River scenery. Boarding a sightseeing boat, we saw the green Li River gently flowing through the city from north to south. The river is about 100 meters wide, clear enough to see the pebbles at the bottom from the boat. Along both banks, hills of various sizes were scattered—major scenic spots in the city. They were similar in height, with rounded tops covered in low shrubs. From a distance, the hills looked lush and green. These include Diecai Hill, Old Man Hill, Elephant Trunk Hill, and others. The most famous is Elephant Trunk Hill, Guilin's symbol and name card. It stands close to the Li River, shaped like a giant stone elephant with its long trunk touching the river, as if drinking water. Nature's craftsmanship is truly exquisite.

The boat moved slowly along the Li River, revealing the scenery on both sides. The scenic spots and the commercial center of Guilin are concentrated along the Li River, so buildings are unavoidable. The interaction of mountains, water, and architecture felt a bit disharmonious from the boat; the riverside buildings seemed somewhat cluttered, not enhancing the natural beauty. It's hard to say whether the buildings encroached on the landscape or the landscape squeezed the buildings.

We also visited the Jingjiang Princes' Mansion scenic area, originally the residence of Zhu Shouqian, a grandnephew of Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang. However, only a platform and a few steps remain from the Ming Dynasty. This historical site is more of a local relic than a major part of Chinese history. Before it became a scenic area, it was the site of Guilin Normal College. All the buildings on the ground are reinforced concrete, likely modern or contemporary remnants. The characters "Guilin Normal College" are still engraved on the gate lintel, and some students still study there. The scenic area didn't have many highlights; the underground palace's "Worship of Tai Sui" and the imperial examination hall were slightly interesting. But the ticket price is steep: 100 yuan for adults, half price (50 yuan) only for those over 70. It might be the only place in China offering half-price tickets only to those above 70. I recall that in Shanxi, scenic spots offer free entry to those over 60. Relying solely on ticket revenue to maintain a scenic area is not a smart approach.

Since ancient times, the saying "Guilin's landscape is the best under heaven" has been popular. I think this might be due to the ancients' favoritism toward their hometown, using the most flattering words to praise it, or perhaps due to historical limitations—they rarely traveled far and couldn't appreciate the vastness of the country's magnificent scenery. Of course, Guilin's landscape is truly beautiful, but it doesn't reach the level of "best under heaven." Not to mention other places in China, even within the same southwestern region, Guizhou and Yunnan provinces have countless beautiful sceneries. "Guilin's landscape is the best under heaven" is somewhat exaggerated.

The well-known line "Guilin's landscape is the best under heaven" is often followed by "Yangshuo's landscape is the best in Guilin." This indicates that the most exquisite part of Guilin's landscape is in Yangshuo. So we spent a day driving to Yangshuo to see the beautiful scenery.

The beauty of Guilin's landscape always unfolds along the Li River. Any sightseeing must involve the Li River. On the way to Xingping, we took a bamboo raft and cruised on the Li River for about an hour.

It was summer, the peak tourist season. In previous years, the river would be crowded with people, and one would have to queue for a raft. This year, due to the pandemic, the raft business was much worse. Most rafts were moored by the river, waiting for customers.

These "bamboo rafts" are not made of thick bamboo poles tied together but from plastic tubes shaped like bamboo—essentially plastic rafts. They have railings and a canopy, making the ride comfortable and safe. They are not poled manually but driven by an internal combustion engine.

"Yangshuo's landscape is the best in Guilin" truly lives up to its reputation. Sitting on the raft and looking around, I saw faint green mountains, flowing blue waters, and the raft gliding through the landscape like a real painting. The mountains along the river are covered with dense forests, mostly shrubs or low trees that wrap the mountains tightly without altering their contours. The mountains maintain their original shapes—some like galloping horses, some like flying dragons, some like fairies, some like naughty children—leaving room for imagination and various beautiful legends.

The weather was excellent today. The vast sky was a sparkling blue, with large white clouds floating slowly. The blue sky and white clouds were exceptionally vivid.

Under the vivid sky, the serene mountains clung to the slow-flowing water. The mountains stood by the water, and the water circled the mountains. Over millions of years, mountains and water have merged as one, inseparable. The mountains make the water more beautiful, and the water adorns the mountains with deeper green. The majestic peaks reflected in the green river water perfectly captured the charm of "Peaks reflected in the water, mountains floating; every mountain and river is enchanting." This also highly summarizes the grace and beauty of Yangshuo's natural scenery.

We sat on the raft, a gentle breeze blowing against our faces, carrying away the heat and refreshing our spirits. Our raft drifted lightly on the Li River like a leaf. The faint green mountains came toward us, and small boats occasionally passed by. At that moment, it felt like being in a paradise. Again I recalled the lines: "Guilin's landscape is the best under heaven; Yangshuo's landscape is the best in Guilin." The most brilliant and beautiful scenery of Guilin is in Yangshuo, on the Li River there. "Guilin's landscape is the best under heaven" is a bit of an exaggeration, but "Yangshuo's landscape is the best in Guilin" is truly well-deserved and accurate.

We got off the raft near Xingping Ancient Town and immediately admired the famous reflection of Huangbu Shoal. The river here is wide, clear, and mirror-like. Standing on the viewing platform and looking at the opposite bank, several peaks rose gracefully from the water, like slender beauties. The wide river provided ample space for reflections, which were particularly complete and clear—truly a feast for the eyes. The beauty of the Li River's mountains lies in their reflections; the most captivating reflection is at Huangbu Shoal. The scene was chosen for the back of the 20-yuan note (fifth series).

In Yangshuo, we also visited the Silver Cave's karst cave and the Ten-Mile Gallery, gaining a lot.

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