Encountering Colorful Guilin: I'm Waiting for You This Winter in Guilin [Including Ginkgo, Persimmons, Red Maples, Chinese Tallow]

📍 Guilin · 👁 1 reads · ❤️ 40 likes

How beautiful are the four seasons of Guilin?

Spring: misty rain on the Li River

Summer: rafting on the Yulong River

Autumn: Longji Rice Terraces, Haiyang ginkgo

Winter: Gongcheng persimmons, Zizhou red maples...

If you ask which season in Guilin is the most ethereal,

it must be Guilin's spring and summer.

If you ask which season in Guilin is the most colorful,

it must be Guilin's autumn and winter.

As a native of Guangxi,

I often have the chance to go to Guilin.

Last year I wrote a summer travelogue about Guilin,

and I've been thinking about Guilin's autumn and winter ever since.

Many people always rush to Yangshuo when they go to Guilin,

but besides the stunning landscapes of Yangshuo—the "best under heaven"—

the colorful Guilin is also very eye-catching.

People say that when it snows, Beijing becomes Beiping,

and in winter, Guilin turns back into Jingjiang.

Keke: A three-year-old female Corgi, extremely clingy to her owner. To take a photo with her, you have to forcefully hold her neck until she stops struggling, then you can take pictures freely. Otherwise, she's quiet and well-behaved, occasionally asking for pets and acting cute. She's like someone else's dog—when we take her into the village, the village dogs are afraid of her.

Qianqian: A new friend I met. I arranged to go with her to Zizhou before the trip, and she's just so photogenic~~

Tiaotiao's Mom: An alumna who's been to Guilin quite often recently. We often meet up to play together, and she often takes me to explore the streets and alleys of Guilin to find food, hahaha. A low-key mom who doesn't like to be on camera, raising an incredibly well-behaved son—a model mother. I always say that if I ever have a child, I'll call her every day for advice.

Tiaotiao: A super cute little boy, quiet and well-behaved, only occasionally seeking attention. When we went to Wujiu Beach, he saw a road sign indicating a U-turn, pointed at it, and said, "Look, that 'U' character is bending over!" I was stunned for a moment. Tiaotiao's mom kindly explained, and I finally got it—"Oh~~" Such innocent and whimsical remarks kept popping up throughout the trip, making the journey so much less boring.

Haiyang ginkgo is known as "the world's number one ginkgo township," with over a million ginkgo trees. It's safe to say that this season, Haiyang is bathed in a sea of yellow. I've visited Haiyang's ginkgo for two consecutive years, running through five villages. Travel agencies like to go to Big and Small Tongmuwan because they're closest to the city; Xiaopingle also has some tours, but the village is larger and more scenic than Big and Small Tongmuwan. For a wilder experience, I recommend Datangbian and Bindong Village (a bit farther). I've chosen these last two representative villages to recommend.

【Datangbian Village】

Admission: 20 RMB/person

Visit time: 2 hours

Best viewing: mid-to-late November to early December

Named because the village is built by a large pond, the village is simply called Datangbian (Big Pond Side). Normally there's no entry fee, but during ginkgo season, the village committee sets up a checkpoint at the entrance to collect fees. There's a parking lot inside, suitable for self-driving tourists. The village has many farmhouse restaurants. Starting from Guilin in the morning and having lunch here is a good idea—try a local chicken hotpot this season.

[Photo Spot 1: Pond Reflection] Entering the village, there's a row of stalls along the pond, mostly selling local specialties like ginkgo nuts and dried persimmons. They're homemade and sold directly by the locals, giving a very down-to-earth feel. I didn't encounter any overcharging. Most of the locals are elderly, probably left-behind seniors. Buying something from them and chatting a bit makes their day.

Along the pond, many new houses have been built, reflecting together with the ancient ginkgo trees. You can almost imagine what it was like hundreds of years ago when the ginkgo were first planted, their reflections in the pond.

[Photo Spot 2: Old Village by the Pond] By the pond, there's a cluster of old houses surrounded by century-old ginkgo trees. These trees are likely older than the houses. They have accompanied generations of villagers. Although the houses are now dilapidated, there seems to be a consensus in the village that these trees must not be touched. The old ginkgo trees greet each autumn as their leaves turn yellow and fall on time...

The ground is covered with yellow leaves; when autumn wind blows, they fall. An old-fashioned blower stands nearby. Today's children probably only see such old objects in farmhouse restaurants and Li Ziqi's videos.

As I bent down to pick up leaves, I found a big surprise besides leaves—ginkgo nuts! The white nuts sold in the village are the peeled kernels of ginkgo fruits. This was my first time seeing fallen ginkgo fruits from the tree. Ginkgo trees are truly wonderful—they provide beautiful yellow leaves for photos and edible fruits.

In dappled light, the old ginkgo and old houses have been companions for decades. Now the old houses remain, keeping the ginkgo trees company.

You can't see the wind, but with the ginkgo, you know when the wind comes and goes. And the ginkgo leaves seem to know autumn has arrived, putting on their new yellow clothes, waiting for the wind.

The ginkgo in Haiyang are very sensitive to the weather. If the temperature drops suddenly, for about a week, the ginkgo will turn a beautiful yellow. But it can't rain continuously, or the leaves will fall. To see the ginkgo fully yellow and still on the trees is rare—maybe once in several years. Before going to Haiyang, I had seen autumn in Beijing—the combination of palace walls and ginkgo, and the thousand-year-old ginkgo at Tanzhe Temple. Coming to Haiyang afterwards, although it has its own charm, I felt that compared to northern ginkgo, these are more delicate because it's not cold enough.

With a strong wind, ginkgo leaves cover the rooftops.

There are many photographers, all capturing the most beautiful scenery of Haiyang.

The rooster in the village is really proud and majestic.

The shadows of trees flicker on the earthen walls, swaying with the wind, and the sound of birds chirping. What a cozy autumn day with warm sunshine! I was holding Keke's leash (though she's my friend's dog), and at that moment, I felt life was worth it.

Suddenly, a rustling sound came. I looked up and saw a child picking up ginkgo leaves to take photos—so cute. With the parent's permission, I took a few shots of the child. This one is my favorite: the ginkgo leaves cascading from the child's hands like tiny swings.

Since I was taking portraits, I couldn't miss a photo with Keke. Other people's dogs are really other people's dogs—well-behaved and clingy. I'm so envious! My biggest wish is to own a Corgi.

She can't be more than two meters away from her owner. It was so hard to catch a still shot of her sitting still. The little one never takes her eyes off her owner.

The village dogs are also very friendly; a whistle brings them running with wagging tails.

[Photo Spot 3: Ginkgo Grove Behind the Village] Behind the village, there is a ginkgo grove about the size of two basketball courts, still lined with local stalls.

We took out a small table and chairs from the car trunk, rested a while, took photos, and had some tea. When the wind blew, the ginkgo leaves rustled, leaving an autumn sound in our memories. Of course, I also grabbed Keke and petted her endlessly—since it's so rare to see her, I couldn't let her off easily.

Autumn is also the harvest season in Guilin. At this time, sugar oranges, tangerines, oranges, and persimmons ripen one after another. When you come to Guangxi, to Guilin, you must taste these freshly picked seasonal fruits.

Visit time: 2 hours

Best viewing: mid-to-late November to early December

It's quite far and at a higher altitude than other villages, so it's colder and the leaves are yellower than elsewhere. The roads are rough, so self-driving is recommended. It's a relatively unknown treasure village. The ginkgo trees here are older, and around the few ancient trees in the village center, villagers often gather. They still seem very simple, dressed in a way that feels like the 80s or 90s.

The ginkgo trees in the village are scattered and, unlike elsewhere, grow very tall—you have to look up to see the tops.

The village is basically planted with ginkgo trees, so everywhere you go is golden yellow.

Unlike Datangbian, the old houses in Bindong Village are still inhabited, not largely abandoned. So the old houses and ginkgo trees have a lively, lived-in feel.

A hen wandering near the gate.

The blue sky and ginkgo trees reflected on the car window.

Through an abandoned doorway, a tall ginkgo tree in the courtyard towers, as if saying: "Don't leave me, master. Look, I'm still guarding the house waiting for you to return."

A single ginkgo tree in front of a house; when the autumn wind passes, yellow leaves cover the ground.

We arrived at the village's central square, where two particularly old ginkgo trees, probably centuries old, stand. This is also where the village elders gather to chat and hold meetings. I lingered here for a while. Most of the villagers are elderly, still living as they did a decade ago—carrying water with shoulder poles, wearing old-fashioned Zhongshan suits, with hens roaming everywhere... In this autumn season, with a few outside visitors, the elderly seem shy yet excited, neither hawking goods nor refusing to be photographed. Everything is harmonious.

In the slanting light of the setting sun, an old man seemed a little lonely, waiting for something.

Ginkgo trees can be seen from every angle in the village.

Gongcheng County has two famous treasures: Gongcheng persimmons and Gongcheng oil tea. Whether for scenery or food, Gongcheng has the perfect conditions. Speaking of persimmons, you can see persimmon groves everywhere in Gongcheng, but the most concentrated and representative place is Hongyan Village.

Visit time: half a day to a full day

Best viewing: November to December (2020 was a leap year, so harvest came earlier; in previous years, persimmons could still be seen until mid-December)

Transport: Take the bullet train to Gongcheng Station, then a minibus for 20 RMB per person to Hongyan Village. If in a group, Didi is more cost-effective.

[Spot 1] There's a big slope on the main road in Gongcheng County. At the top, it's ideal for telephoto shots. The street lamps on both sides are decorated with persimmon-shaped ornaments, very local, and especially festive during the persimmon harvest season. This street is a main artery, with heavy traffic. We went early in the morning when there were fewer cars. If you want to take photos like us, please be careful of safety.

[Spot 2] Rolling Water Dam. To enter Hongyan Village, you must cross this dam. In autumn and winter, the water level is low; in summer, it rises and makes crossing difficult. Cars can drive across, but people must walk, so two rows of stone piers allow people to pass each other. Children enjoy walking on them, and adults are reminded of their childhood. When there are many tourists, there can be "traffic jams" because aunties stop to take photos, haha.

From above, the water level difference between the two sides of the dam is 1-2 meters, with green river water flowing in front of the village. In Guangxi, you often see such blue-green water, living up to its reputation for beautiful landscapes. Upstream of the dam, there are boats for sightseeing. In the morning, the green water is like a mirror, and the boat leaves a wake.

[Spot 3] Opposite the Rolling Water Dam is the village's Wind and Rain Bridge. There's a small one in the village. Gongcheng is a Yao autonomous county, so many Yao customs are preserved. When we went, the children had a holiday for the Panwang Festival. If you happen to come across it, you can join in. During the day, the bridge is crowded with locals selling specialties, making it hard to take photos, so we went in the early morning.

Wind and Rain Bridge was originally built by ethnic minorities in Guangxi to shelter from wind and rain. Now it's also a gathering place for locals to chat.

[Spot 4] Before entering the village, both sides of the road are lined with persimmon groves. There's a two-story viewing platform where you can photograph the red lantern-like persimmons hanging from branches. You might also see fruit farmers harvesting and occasionally receiving small gifts from them—fully ripe persimmons. Here you feel a sense of abundance, even though the fruit has nothing to do with us, hahaha.

I tore open a tree-ripened persimmon given by a farmer. The flesh was crisp and tender, with distinct layers. Because it ripened on the tree, it was sweeter and more aromatic than those bought at stalls. In the persimmon grove, you often see discarded persimmons due to blemishes or damage. Since Gongcheng is famous for crisp persimmons that need to be soaked after picking, these discarded ones can't be eaten immediately, so they go to waste. But this year, seeing the busy farmers and carts loaded with persimmons, it seems like a good harvest year.

There are many stalls along the roadside selling persimmons. I bought two crisp persimmons to try. Since they've been soaked, they don't make your mouth feel numb; they're crunchy and sweet, with the best texture in the flesh. Eating persimmons in a persimmon grove—could there be a more fitting scene? Hahaha.

We arrived late; more than half of the persimmons on both sides of the road had already been harvested. Only the grove we were in remained. The farmers were working hard to pick more while the weather was good. Compared to our leisurely photo-taking, their busy scene was a stark contrast. I've only seen tea picking and rice harvesting before; picking fruit is much harder. They need to be skilled at climbing trees, then show off their lightning-fast picking techniques.

A farmer brother was very cooperative. When he saw me taking photos, he occasionally paused for a shot. When he found a ripe persimmon, he called me over from a distance to give it to me. Haha, such simple and lovely people! This encounter made me like Gongcheng even more.

A photography teacher was taking pictures in the persimmon grove. I chatted with him—he came from Guangdong, traveling with a group of retired friends. Every year when the persimmons ripen, they drive over to taste them. With his photography hobby, he always takes photos. I hope my retirement life will be like that: with old friends, a hobby, a stable pension, and nothing to worry about.

The persimmons picked under the sun still have a layer of sugar on their skin, with a slightly matte texture, looking like plump orange babies. The washed persimmons on the stalls are shiny, but those in the picking baskets are the most charming.

Keke was also curious about these persimmons, looking like they tasted good—such a cute little rascal.

The picked persimmons are directly poured into baskets and then taken away in batches.

Next, it's photo time. Keke's ears drooped because I was holding her tightly; she kept wanting to return to her owner. Haha, such a loyal dog! I so wanted to take her home, hahaha.

Guess which persimmon in my hand is ripe? Haha, the orange, semi-transparent one was given to me by a farmer from the tree. Since I had already received several soft persimmons from other farmer brothers, I gave some to a Guangdong auntie who was taking photos nearby. She then kindly lent us her bamboo basket for our photoshoot—haha.

Lying in the persimmon grove, taking a group photo with little Keke and baskets of persimmons. When the drone flew up, I truly saw how spectacular this persimmon grove is.

[Spot 5] Hongyan Village is a great place to wander. I loved this village during my first visit two years ago; it has a strong cultural atmosphere, especially during persimmon season. The harvested persimmons are brought home, peeled, dried, and turned over, relying on sunlight to transform the plump little persimmons into dried persimmon cakes.

Peeling persimmons is also a therapeutic and stress-relieving activity. A machine rotates the persimmon while you hold a peeler along its edge; a fast peeler creates a parabolic curve of skin. I stood there silently watching the brother peel half a basket of persimmons in one go. For them, it's work, but for us tourists, it's very soothing.

In the village, persimmons are dried everywhere. Upon closer look, I realized that dried persimmon cakes are made from peeled persimmons dried in the sun. The locals still retain the most primitive and sincere craftsmanship, relying on sunlight and wind to make the cakes. You can see persimmons drying everywhere in the village—on both sides of the road, in yards, on rooftops—a spectacular sight of autumn drying.

It seems that decades or even centuries ago, the village made persimmon cakes the same way. Every year during the persimmon harvest season, which lasts over a month, every household dries persimmons, passing on the tradition from generation to generation. I once watched Li Ziqi's video on making persimmon cakes, and I realized how fitting it is to follow the seasons and do things in accordance with nature's schedule.

Through the sunlight, the persimmon cakes look like little semi-transparent lanterns, glowing and appearing soft and sticky. After one or two months of sun exposure, the finished cakes must be delicious—haha.

Behind the village pond is a cluster of old houses. Most of the owners have built new houses in the front streets and opened farmhouse restaurants, leaving the old houses abandoned and overgrown. Some of these old houses with two or three courtyards would be perfect for guesthouses. I really liked them, but now they're covered in weeds. While wandering, you occasionally come across a small persimmon grove, with drying persimmons everywhere—on rooftops, roadsides, and yards.

An old three-courtyard house facing the pond has been tidied up and opened to visitors. The furniture has been removed, leaving only some old washstands and chairs. This is my first time seeing such an old residence: three courtyards, a second floor, brick main structure but mostly wooden interior. Judging by the scale, this family must have been quite wealthy in the village.

A small courtyard would be very atmospheric when it rains.

A corner of the old house: climbing vines, faded green bricks, rotten wooden windows, a worn-out bamboo chair.

Going further in, it feels like this area was once a wealthy neighborhood. Not exactly grand mansions, but with some carved beams and painted rafters. Most houses have three courtyards, with multiple side rooms. There are archways and ornamental arches.

Look at this house's grand entrance—it's built like a memorial arch.

I never knew the fruit on trees could be so enticing. Covered in a layer of sugar, I couldn't bear to wash it before taking a bite.

The quaint village, with perfect lighting, invited me to stroll with my camera. It was a relaxing, carefree comfort—taking photos when I wanted, or chatting with village children, exchanging unintelligible words with elderly folks (since I don't understand their dialect), counting how many persimmons were left out of reach on the trees. An entire morning passed like this.

Speaking of Zizhou Island, it's a treasure scenic spot I recently discovered. As a child, we all learned about Elephant Trunk Hill from textbooks (am I revealing my age?). So when visiting Guilin, besides Yangshuo's landscapes, another goal was to see Elephant Trunk Hill. I used to think only Xiangshan Scenic Area could provide a view. Then I thought, since Elephant Trunk Hill is in the water, both sides of the Li River should be able to see it. So I discovered this treasure—Zizhou Island on the opposite bank of Xiangshan. Why is it a treasure? Xiangshan costs 60 RMB; Zizhou Island costs 28 RMB—mysterious smile, hahaha, the way to save money~~

Admission: 28 RMB

Unexpectedly, in autumn and winter, visiting Zizhou Island offers more than just Elephant Trunk Hill: you get a bonus of red maples and ginkgo all over the island.

Let's talk about Zizhou Island's history: It was the official garden of Pei Xingli, the prefect of Guizhou during the Tang Dynasty. Since then, Zizhou Island has been the best vantage point for viewing Elephant Trunk Hill. Liu Zongyuan, one of the Eight Great Prose Masters of the Tang and Song, was invited by Pei Xingli to visit Zizhou Island. Following the literati custom, he composed a poem after the visit, resulting in "The Record of the Zijia Islet Pavilion," where he wrote, "The beauty of this pavilion is the finest under heaven," which is the earliest association of Guilin's landscape with "finest under heaven."

Zizhou Island is actually a peninsula. Another reason to include it in my itinerary is that Laodongjiang Guilin Rice Noodles, a famous old brand in Guilin, is just a five-minute walk from Zizhou Island. With these two attractions combined, how could I not make a special trip? And it turned out I caught its most colorful season. Red like fire, pink like rosy clouds, yellow like gold, green like emerald, sparkling under the sun. That was my first impression of Zizhou Island from a drone.

"At the ancient ferry where strange rocks tower, Zizhou red maples announce Guilin's autumn," wrote poet Zhang Bao of the Qing Dynasty. Indeed, in late autumn, Zizhou Island dons a colorful coat, beautiful beyond words. Riding a sightseeing car through the woods, passing from emerald green to bright yellow to purple-red, feels like traveling through a colorful world.

The red maples and ginkgo on Zizhou Island are concentrated at the large lawn at the entrance and near the last stop of the electric car.

On the other side is Elephant Trunk Hill. From Zizhou Island, the elephant's trunk faces to the right—probably the only difference from Xiangshan Scenic Area. It feels like you get a 180-degree panoramic view of Elephant Trunk Hill. When I visited, Guilin happened to be hosting an event upstream that released water; otherwise, the Li River water level would be lower in this season.

I invited Qianqian to Zizhou for portraits. She chose a cheongsam that matched the ancient charm of Zizhou Island perfectly.

After entering the scenic area, don't take the electric car right away. Cross the bridge at the entrance and keep walking until you reach Yanyu Lake. This is a secret lesser-known photography spot on Zizhou Island. There are many red maples and antique-style buildings.

Holding an oil-paper umbrella, is the reflection in the lake a fairy or a mortal?

The red maples behind are dyed in layers.

There are quite a few fallen leaves on the lake surface, but these leaves are exactly what autumn looks like.

【Bamboo Grove】

There are two bamboo-lined paths on Zizhou Island, both with feathery bamboo. The sour bamboo shoots used in Guilin rice noodles and snail noodles are made from pickled shoots of this bamboo. Haha, we've drifted to food again. Since Ang Lee's "Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon," I've always felt bamboo forests are mysterious—martial artists' fights are incomplete without bamboo as a backdrop. This time, Qianqian wandered through the bamboo grove with an oil-paper umbrella, adding a different scene to the forest.

The red maples on Zizhou Island are different from those in Beijing. Zizhou's maples are trident maples, while Beijing's are mostly five-lobed. Pick a maple leaf, and autumn is in your hand.

Ginkgo leaves that are about to turn yellow.

With red leaves as background, a beauty in front.

Feeling tired, we ordered an afternoon tea at the park, sat down to enjoy tea and snacks, and chatted. Nowadays, travel isn't just about rushing through itineraries and taking photos—you have to slow down. Rest is the most important purpose of travel, not always rushing. Fangye (Wilderness) is located in a forest, true to its name, feeling a bit like the Emerald City.

A cup of fruit tea, a leisurely afternoon—only one scenic spot in a day.

The large lawn of Zizhou is layered from above: yellow ginkgo, red trident maples, and unknown green trees arranged in layers.

Two Rivers and Four Lakes include the Li River and Taohua River in Guilin's city center, plus Shan Lake, Rong Lake, Gui Lake, and Mulong Lake. They form a beautiful ring of waterways around the city and are Guilin's scenic名片. Among them, the Sun and Moon Twin Pagodas on Shan Lake are the most representative.

Admission: Free; boat tour 210 RMB (nighttime)

The Two Rivers and Four Lakes connect all the water systems in Guilin's city. For a full view, take a boat tour; if you have time and want to stroll, walk along the banks. The night views of the Two Rivers and Four Lakes are truly beautiful, with very distinctive lighting.

The history of Shan Lake dates back to the Tang and Song dynasties. It was an artificial moat dug as the southern city defense. During the Ming Dynasty, the city expanded, enclosing the lake within. Since the Ming, government offices were often built by the lake, and celebrities and gentry lived nearby. Literati frequently gathered here, making Shan Lake the cultural center of Guilin. Day and night offer different scenery. In this season, when ginkgo and red maples change color, the trees around Shan Lake are all dressed in colors.

The viewing platform at Shan Lake is shaped like a pipa (Chinese lute). From above, it looks like a pipa surrounded by colorful ribbons.

Behind Shan Lake is the Li River; behind the Li River is Zizhou Island. The entire island is lush green dotted with red and yellow.

In the morning, the Sun and Moon Twin Pagodas are reflected on the mirror-like lake. At this moment, Shan Lake's tranquility is undisturbed, waiting for the sun to rise and the wind to bring visitors.

Walking along the Two Rivers and Four Lakes, the Sun and Moon Twin Pagodas area is the most essential part. The Sun Tower is 41 meters tall with nine floors, decorated entirely with pure copper. This copper tower set three world records: the tallest copper tower, the tallest copper building, and the tallest tower in water. The Moon Tower is 35 meters tall with seven floors, made of glazed tiles.

As I mentioned, Shan Lake looks different by day and night, so I came back in the evening to stroll around Rong-Shan Lake. Indeed, the Sun and Moon Twin Pagodas are the most beautiful. If you take a boat tour, it's also quite nice. According to Tingting's mom, who has been on the boat, you can experience the novelty of the boat riding an elevator. Along the way, you see many bridges of different styles, each beautifully lit. The boat also plays commentary, especially legends told vividly.

A close-up of the Moon Tower.

Rong Lake is connected to Shan Lake, separated by Yang Bridge. East of the bridge is Shan Lake, west is Rong Lake, named after the banyan and camphor trees growing on the banks. Rong Lake is not large; it used to be the southern moat of Guilin. In the eighth year of Hongwu in the Ming Dynasty, the city expanded, and the moat was abandoned, later becoming a scenic lake.

From above, Rong Lake shows a bridge shaped like the Big Dipper connecting the shore to the island. The bridge's layout follows the Dipper pattern, made of white marble, hence called the Big Dipper Bridge.

At night, the lights on the right side of the island are the Big Dipper Bridge.

Wujiu Beach is a bend of the Li River on the outskirts of Guilin. Every December, when the Chinese tallow trees turn red, it becomes a popular spot. For a hundred li along the Li River, there's the picturesque Huangbu Beach in spring and summer, and the fiery red Wujiu Beach in autumn and winter. Wujiu Beach is a large riverbank on the Li River, dotted with clusters of tallow trees. In autumn and winter, it best showcases the charm of the Li River. Viewed from above, it resembles a poetic ink-wash painting.

Transport: Just navigate directly. Now navigation apps define it as a scenic spot, so it's convenient. Self-driving is recommended; otherwise, it's hard to reach.

Admission: 5 RMB/person, 10 RMB/car

Best time for red leaves: mid-to-late December

Back in summer, Tiaotiao's mom and I agreed to visit Wujiu Beach this year. In December, I kept an eye on the weather and checked Weibo for real-time photos. Finally, on December 9, the sun came out after a long time, so we set off immediately. Along the way, Tiaotiao kept making funny remarks. When we started, the weather was bad with thick clouds. Tiaotiao noticed our concern and comforted us, "I'm starting to eat the clouds now. By the time we arrive, I'll have eaten them all." Such a thoughtful little guy.

Then we kept passing U-turn signs, and Tiaotiao's witty comments came again:

Tiaotiao: "Tingzi jiejie, why is that 'U' character always bending over?"

Me: "?????"

Tiaotiao's Mom: "He means the U-turn sign. Only his mother can understand his childlike language."

Me: "!!!!!"

I patted Tiaotiao's head—what an amazing little boy~

From above, due to the low winter water level of the Li River, large riverbanks are exposed. Wujiu Beach, originally an island in the river, is now accessible on foot from the shore. Many self-driving cars drove directly onto the island.

In the distance, the karst mountains look like sheer cliffs chopped by an axe, with the murmuring Li River below.

Entering Wujiu Beach, we spotted a herd of cows grazing on the riverbank from afar. I took Tiaotiao to see them. Since kids don't understand danger, his mom held him at a distance, while I charged ahead.

There were about a dozen cows, mostly mothers with calves.

A curious calf stared at my lens and kept mooing at me. Its fine fur shimmered golden in the sunlight.

Due to the weather this year, many tallow trees had started shedding leaves before turning fully red—similar to Haiyang's ginkgo. To see them fully red and still on the trees, you might have to wait three to five years. According to Tiaotiao's mom, you need extremely cold weather in November, with no wind or rain, to get beautiful red leaves and ginkgo.

Luckily, we found a small grove still with leaves. A calf was grazing leisurely there.

Fiery red tallow trees against the karst mountains and Li River, perfect for picnics and camping. There are few restaurants nearby, so bring your own food and drinks. Remember to protect the environment and not litter.

Tallow trees are quite tall, slender and tall with few branches. Due to the sudden temperature drop, the red leaves at the top remain, while others have gradually fallen.

I helped Tiaotiao take photos. He found a leaf half green and half red and said he wanted to give it to me. I asked him to find another one like that for his mom, so he began searching earnestly in the grove again.

Whose little cutie is this?

Earlier, we had been photographing red leaves, but Tiaotiao wanted to play in the river. We kept coaxing him until we finished, then took him to the riverside. He imitated his father skipping stones—but forgot his dad threw a stone, hahahaha.

This tree might be the reddest tallow we saw all trip.

I captured a shot just before he fell after running. The other day, I saw a video about parents born in the 80s-90s: when their child cries on the ground, instead of comforting, they pull out their phones to record. That's probably our generation's parenting style. When Tiaotiao fell, his mom stood by and said, "It's okay, a man is not afraid of falling." Originally his face was scrunched up, but suddenly he stood up on his own, brushed off his knees, and didn't cry even though it hurt. So adorable.

It's such a blessing to have a local foodie to take you to delicious places. After meeting Qianqian, I basically had my lunch, dinner, and late-night snacks arranged, hahaha. Besides the famous Guilin rice noodles and beer fish found everywhere, oil tea is a very representative local delicacy.

After photographing persimmons, don't forget to go to the county town for the most authentic Gongcheng oil tea. Gongcheng's oil tea is the most famous, especially during persimmon season—it warms the stomach and dispels cold. Try all the little snacks that go with oil tea. Gongcheng oil tea is a very authentic Guilin snack. If you can handle it, you must give it a try, especially in winter.

I asked a local friend from Gongcheng for a recommendation: Baichuan Oil Tea, a small, authentic shop favored by locals.

Address: Inside Gongcheng Hotel, Taiping Street, Gongcheng Yao Autonomous County, Guilin

It feels a bit like a food stall. You order directly in the kitchen, see the ingredients, and the dishes come as they are, with clear prices and real ingredients. There are many snacks; the dishes I ordered were all good—no duds. Recommended.

Oil tea comes with many small accompaniments. The basic 1.0 version includes rice puffs and hemp balls, plus scallions and cilantro. The 2.0 version adds fried dough sticks and taro sticks. Each addition costs a little more, choose according to your preference.

In the kitchen, I also ordered eggplant stuffed with minced meat and mixed fried ribs. A plate full of fried goodies made us all shine with oil and happiness.

Hemp balls are my favorite. If there are leftovers after finishing the oil tea, I always take them home. They're delicious even eaten plain.

A bowl of 2.0 version oil tea—tell me, isn't it fragrant? Hahaha.

Just like Lanzhou pulled noodles, can you visit Guilin without having a bowl of Guilin rice noodles? Usually, when I eat rice noodles in Guilin, I only eat one type: as long as I see people standing at the entrance of a shop, eating noodles, that shop must be good, hahaha. Guilin people eat rice noodles this way: even if there are no tables, they stand and eat happily. This scene only exists at old shops. Laodongjiang was a noodle shop I had been following for a while; almost every time I go to Guilin, I take a taxi to eat there.

Address: No. 3 Longyin Road, Qixing District, Guilin

Outsiders often confuse "two liang" and "three liang" in Guilin. It's simply small bowl (two liang) and large bowl (three liang). Also, don't order set meals—set meals at chain stores in Guilin are usually traps for tourists. Just order à la carte.

The marinated eggs soaked in the marinade are very flavorful.

A bowl of rice noodles is quickly prepared, but the toppings you add yourself are the second life of the noodles.

There are N types of chili to choose from. Guilin people take their noodle toppings very seriously. If a restaurant's toppings are bad, customers won't come.

We usually eat the noodles dry with seasonings first, then add soup after finishing.

In Guilin, there's a food hotspot called Tiexi. If you mention Tiexi to a Guilin local, most will first swallow their saliva because there are so many delicious things there. This time, I followed Qianqian to try her favorite spicy braised food, and I was instantly won over. I never thought braised food in a spicy hot pot could be so delicious. I already love braised food and spicy hot pot, so this combination doubled my love. It's now on my must-eat list for Guilin.

Average cost: 50 RMB

Address: No. 2 Cuizhu Road North Lane, Guilin

First, pick your ingredients from the fridge, then have the shop cut and process them, and put them into the spicy hot pot. Even outdoors in this weather, eating such a hot pot doesn't feel cold; after two bites, you're warm.

Meatballs and tofu puffs are my favorites, along with beef tendons, chicken kidneys, and other delights.

Even through the screen, I'm swallowing my saliva again. When will I go to Guilin next? I must eat there again.

I've never been a big breakfast person, but in Guilin, I can't give up breakfast because there are too many delicious options. I might be a fake Nanning native and a true Guilin native—the flavors suit me better than Nanning's. Besides Laodongjiang Guilin rice noodles, there's another must-visit breakfast spot less than 50 meters away: Nuoxiang Station (Nuomi Xiang Yizhan). I once chose accommodation near this shop just to have the sticky rice breakfast as early as possible.

Average cost: 6 RMB (4, 5, 6 RMB depending on size)

Address: Near No. 6 Shijia Yuan Road, Qixing District, Guilin

What does "lip and teeth retain fragrance" mean? The owner makes the sticky rice like a rice burger: sticky rice on both ends, with fillings in between: mung bean paste, spicy tofu strips, pickled vegetables, chili, and fried "lotus root slices." One bite delivers layers of texture: soft and sticky on the outside, then soft and savory-spicy, finally crispy... How can anyone resist this texture?

The owner asks about your taste preference when wrapping. You must eat it hot, otherwise the fried "lotus root slices" become soft and lose their crunch.

This is probably the soul of the sticky rice—my favorite.

Mung beans are my favorite too. I don't know how the owner achieves such a perfect combination of textures; every ingredient is just right.

Camera: Sony A7R3

Lenses: Sony 16-35mm/2.8, Sony 70-200/4, Sony 50mm/1.8

Drone: DJI Mavic Air 2

Travelogue Directory:

1. Preface

2. Travel Companions

3. Photo Previews

4. Yellow | Ginkgo — Haiyang Township

5. Orange | Persimmons — Gongcheng Hongyan Village

6. Red + Yellow | Trident Maple — Zizhou Island