[Guangxi - Yangshuo 2] The Coveted 20 RMB Note Is Right in the 1800-Year-Old Xingping Ancient Town

Finally, the weather cleared up today.

The previous days were rainy, especially yesterday's Li River adventure with strong winds and heavy rain (see [Guangxi - Guilin 2] The Majestic Guilin Li River Cruise Adventure). The river swelled, and the Yulong River rafting was suspended. We were worried that today's scheduled Yulong River trip would be canceled, affecting our itinerary. We kept checking the weather and made several calls to the boat operator to confirm the river conditions and the likelihood of departure. The operator said the chances were high, but we would only know for sure in the morning. So we decided to take our chances and stick to the plan: head to Xingping Ancient Town in the morning for a leisurely time, then go rafting on the Yulong River in the afternoon.

Yesterday, we had already scouted a bus stop not far uphill from our hotel. After a few stops, it would take about 5 minutes to reach the bus station, which was very convenient—the most hassle-free part of our trip in terms of transportation.

We planned to catch the first bus from the station at 7:10 to Xingping Ancient Town, so we got up early. The front desk staff were still fast asleep as we strolled to the bus stop.

After walking for about 3 minutes, I looked up at the sign. It said the first bus departed at 7:00... Hmm... Hmm!! I shuddered.

"There is a bus stop not far uphill from our hotel, and after a few stops, it takes about 5 minutes to reach the bus station." What gave me chills was that the bus didn't start from our stop. By the time it arrived, we would definitely be late. Just as we were wondering, it was already 6:50. We decided to walk further to see if we could catch a DiDi car. But of all times, there was not a single car on the road. As time ticked by, we went from a slow walk to a brisk walk, then to a jog, and finally a full-on sprint, gasping for breath. Along the way, I told A-Ming we couldn't stop. If we missed the 7:10 bus, the next one wouldn't come until 9:40. My heart nearly jumped out of my mouth.

We finally reached the bus station and were about to rush to the ticket counter when we saw a minibus parked outside. Quite a few people were already on board, and the engine was rumbling. A woman standing by the open door shouted, "Going to Xingping? We're about to leave. Hurry up, buy tickets on the bus." The wheels seemed ready to roll away at any moment.

I couldn't speak. I nodded vigorously, swallowed hard, and dragged my tired body onto the minibus. As soon as we got on, the bus immediately set off. I gasped for air and checked the time—it was only 7:05, but the scheduled departure was 7:10. In other words, if we hadn't run for our lives, the bus would have left early.

The ride from the bus station to Xingping Ancient Town wasn't long—about 30 minutes.

Since we arrived early, there weren't many tourists yet. Only a few locals were going about their daily morning routines. I especially loved this feeling—as if we were living together with these residents.

In Xingping Ancient Town, the streets are paved with old stone slabs. Most of the walls and roofs are still made of ancient bricks and tiles, with wooden doors of varying ages. Every household, in tacit agreement, pastes traditional Chinese spring couplets. The blue-gray walls and brown wooden doors, paired with bright red couplets, add vitality and energy to this nearly 1,800-year-old town.

The stone roads in the ancient town are only wide enough for two cars to pass. The endless curves beckoned me to explore further. The buildings, averaging two stories high, are evenly and quietly arranged, leaving a large expanse of sky that perfectly highlights the natural mountain scenery with its strange rocks. They don't compete for attention; instead, they complement each other beautifully, making one unconsciously slow down.

The Xingping Ancient Stage was built in the 4th year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty, nearly 300 years ago.

The stage is located inside the Guandi Temple in the ancient town. It has two floors. Following the planned route, we first went to the second floor, which mainly displays ancient artifacts.

Notably, there is an imperial edict. According to the description, during the Kangxi reign, the Empress Dowager held a birthday banquet, and the emperor invited wise elders from across the land. Two elderly men from Xiping Ancient County (now Xingping) attended, presenting a pair of wooden carvings with the character "Shou" (longevity) as gifts. The Empress Dowager was delighted, so the emperor granted them a cast imperial edict. Folk legend says, "Rub the dragon's head with your left hand, and you won't worry for life." You can see a pile of banknotes on both sides of the edict, as if it's a standard procedure for tourists—everyone wants to pray for blessings.

The first floor consists of a courtyard and the ancient stage. Although the site is a bit worn and faded, it is remarkably well-preserved.

Besides the ancient town and stage, there's another must-visit spot for every tourist: the 20 RMB note.

What does the 20 RMB note have to do with Xingping? Because the scene on the back of the 20 RMB note—the Reflection of Yellow Cloth—is located at the Xingping Ferry.

The name "Reflection of Yellow Cloth" comes from the clear and transparent waters of the Li River here. Looking into the water, you can see a large yellow rock slab at the bottom, several zhang in length and width, like a piece of yellow cloth spread on the riverbed. It sounds like a stunning sight. But as I mentioned earlier, the river swelled yesterday. Although the Li River has calmed down today, the murky water makes it impossible to see the yellow rock slab. However, the yellowish river surface could be seen as the "Yellow Cloth Reflection"—a bit of self-amusement during the trip.

Tourists here naturally take photos with a 20 RMB note and the real scene together—it's an unspoken agreement. We also couldn't resist pulling out that brownish note from our pockets to enjoy the moment.

It is said that there are cormorant fishing performances here at night, known as the Li River Fishing Lights.

Cormorant fishing is an ancient method. Fishermen tie a rope around the cormorant's throat and let it dive into the water to catch fish. The fish in the cormorant's mouth cannot be swallowed because its throat is constricted. The fisherman then retrieves the fish as his catch for the day.

Although we didn't schedule this activity and didn't plan to stay until evening to watch the performance, we happened to see a fisherman carrying cormorants on our way back—a stroke of luck.

Ever since we set foot in Guilin, A-Ming and I have been eating Guilin rice noodles quite often.

First, Guilin rice noodles are a must-try local delicacy when visiting Guilin, and they are readily available. Second, the taste really suits my palate. Even years after returning to Taiwan, I still often recall that flavor, leaving me wanting more.

Each shop has different toppings for Guilin rice noodles. Some are simple, some are elaborate, but the basics always include pickled beans, peanuts, bamboo shoots, and meat slices. The texture of Guilin rice noodles is different from Taiwanese rice noodles. They are somewhat like thinner rice noodles (mi tai mu), smooth, chewy, fragrant, and rich. They are eaten dry. But according to the locals, the authentic way is to eat them dry first. When about one-third of the noodles remain, you pour in a ladle of hot soup that every shop keeps on hand, turning it into a soup dish. These two entirely different flavors will make you give a thumbs up.

When in Guilin, you absolutely must not miss this classic dish.

Besides the main meal, we also bought the century-old songhua candy (pine flower candy) from the ancient town. It looks a bit like sachima, tastes good, but is quite sticky. I also tried ai cao gui (mugwort cake), which is similar to Taiwan's cao zai gui (vegetable bun in Minnan). But perhaps due to different preparation methods in different places, the taste didn't suit my palate. I held it in my hand for a long time before finishing it all.

But travel is all about trying new things and experiencing local culture and food—that's what makes it interesting.

1. Bus → Take bus 601 or 801 to the bus station.

2. Bus station → Yangshuo-Xingping (4 buses for the outbound trip; return buses every 30 minutes to 1 hour, about a 30-minute ride)

Travel diary directory: 1. Marathon 2. Quiet Little Town 3. Ten-Thousand-Year Stage - Xingping Ancient Stage 4. 20 RMB 5. Lunch 6. Transportation Travel Information Hotel Guide Strategy Guide Airline Guide Website Guide Travel Guide Cruise Guide Corporate Travel Guide Franchise Cooperation Distribution Alliance Friendship Links Corporate Gift Card Procurement Insurance Agent Agency Cooperation Hotel Franchise Destination and Scenic Spot Cooperation More Franchise Cooperation About Ctrip About Ctrip Ctrip Hotspots Contact Us Careers User Agreement Privacy Policy Business License Security Center Ctrip Content Center Intellectual Property Trip.com Group Algorithm Disclosure