How to Spend Two Days in Guilin? (See the Most Beautiful Persimmons in Gongcheng, Enjoy the Scenery of the Li River!)

Due to work, I haven't had time to travel far this year. Before I knew it, autumn was almost over, and I hadn't seen any autumn colors. Asking for leave was out of the question. Where could I go for just a weekend? I set my sights on Guangxi, mainly because of the convenient high-speed rail. I happened to hear about Gongcheng, and the bullet train from Guangzhou South takes only two hours and ten minutes. Decision made! To accommodate the schedules of the six of us traveling together, we set the departure date for the second weekend of December and booked tickets in advance. I also did some research online. A friend who went a week before departure said the persimmons had already been picked, and I heard that the ginkgo trees in Haiyang Township still had leaves. I was torn about changing the route. In the end, we all agreed to "take things as they come" and "everything is for the best," so we waited quietly for departure.

During the pandemic, I hadn't traveled far. Now that autumn had arrived and the epidemic was under control, I finally had the idea to see autumn colors. Work was busy, so taking leave wasn't easy, so I only had the weekend to wander.

On the road...

On the day of departure, everyone got up early. The six of us headed separately to Humen High-Speed Rail Station to transfer at Guangzhou South. I arrived early; a few barely made it to the station. It took only ten to twenty minutes to reach Guangzhou South, and we had nearly an hour to transfer—plenty of time. But then...

I don't know why, and I dare not ask. Out of six people, only one managed to board the train on time, and the other five, including me, missed it! My mind went blank until a staff member urged me to go to the counter to change tickets. The next train was in about ten to twenty minutes, but it was too late. We could only change to one that left more than fifty minutes later. Fortunately, the change was successful, but it wasted nearly an hour, and we went from having seats to standing.

The two-hour ride was quite fast. Even though we had no seats, we managed to find empty seats by seizing opportunities. After moving twice, we finally sat until we arrived at Gongcheng.

Gongcheng Hongyan Village Persimmon Trip

Since there were no car rental points in Gongcheng, self-driving wasn't an option. Upon exiting Gongcheng Station, many drivers were soliciting passengers. We chose to go to the county town first for oil tea hotpot and then hire a car to Hongyan Village. We quickly arrived at an oil tea restaurant in the county town, met up with Uncle C, who had arrived earlier, and started a pleasant lunch. I realized later that I didn't take any photos of the meal.

After eating, I snuck out for a walk along the Chajiang River. Then the driver urged us, so we set off for Hongyan Village.

Hongyan Village is not far from the county town, less than half an hour's drive. Since it was already mid-December, I was worried there wouldn't be many persimmons left. On the way, before entering the village, there was a small persimmon grove opposite a gas station. A sign read, "Park for photos: Small car 10 yuan, Large car 20 yuan," but no one was collecting money. The persimmons were perfect, with all leaves gone and the fruit very ripe—some almost fully ripe and bright red. Clearly, they were left for photo-taking. So my worry about there being no persimmons was unnecessary. Due to time constraints, we stopped for a few photos and then continued into the village.

Hongyan Village, bustling with tourists, is a newly developed modern rural area, backed by persimmon mountains and facing the Lianhua River.

At the village entrance, a dam with stone steps had tourists hopping across one by one.

The Lianhua River flows through the village, with babbling water spilling over the road, showing its soft beauty. People could walk through the water or follow the two rows of artificial "lotus stakes" winding along, either playing in the water or strolling. The elderly and children could all find fun.

A must-have for a developing riverside village—bamboo raft rides on the river.

Soon we entered the village. It wasn't big. First, we saw these newly built uniform small Western-style houses, indicating that the village was doing well from persimmons and tourism, presenting a socialist new countryside scene.

After crossing the water (no need to wade in winter), we entered the old part of the village. Behind the old houses, there was a small persimmon grove that was also quite nice.

Since it was mid-December, the scene of persimmon seas covering the mountains was no longer visible. But at the village entrance, there was a persimmon grove left for tourists to see. The persimmons were bright red, leaves all gone—just the right time! I had been worried about no persimmons, but it turned out to be the best time! At that moment, the sun also cooperated by breaking through the clouds. In the morning, it was so gray I doubted life, but happiness came suddenly!

This grove at the village entrance seemed intentionally left for photo-taking.

I snapped a shot of a sweet girl.

A reminder: a telephoto lens is a must for photographing persimmons; besides candid shots, it compresses the space, making the whole frame full of persimmons near and far.

Entering the persimmon grove, I found that the trees were not tall, the soil not as fertile as imagined, yet the fruits were countless, like stars, as big as fists. Immersed in the grove, I was instantly "ignited" by the red, filling my heart with surprise and my face with smiles. Observing each tree closely, I could always find a few deep red, luscious, and tempting ripe persimmons, so attractive they made your mouth water, just like the saying in WeChat Moments: "Drooling even through the screen."

In the old village, you could see many scenes of drying persimmons.

There was also a century-old wind-rain bridge across the river, bamboo rafts scattered on the water, Yao girls in colorful costumes, and stalls selling persimmon cakes with loud shouts...

These blood-red persimmons are fruits that have fully ripened on the tree, ready to eat. Their color alone is very appealing. 10 yuan for five—nice and not expensive!

Besides persimmon cakes, the most sold item was peach gum. Gongcheng's vast peach blossom forests produce abundant peach gum, said to have beauty benefits. It's a favorite among women. Cooked peach gum is 5 yuan per bowl, dried is 25-30 yuan per catty.

I came across a beautiful red-leaf tree.

After sweeping through the village, the car hadn't arrived, so we walked up to the back mountain viewing platform to see the whole village. If staying overnight in Hongyan, you could climb Matou Mountain to see the sunset, which would offer a better view. The driver mentioned a ginkgo village, and after checking the map, it wasn't far, so we decided to visit before dark.

Finally, a panoramic view of Hongyan Village. So beautiful, isn't it?

Hongyan Village is a great place—beautiful mountains, water, and scenery, plus delicious persimmons and rice noodles that never get boring.

Thus ended the Gongcheng persimmon part, ready to head to the ginkgo village.

Beidongyuan Village: An Unexpected Golden Autumn Ginkgo

Beidongyuan Village was not far, also about half an hour away, and it was in the direction of the county town, which was also the same direction as Yangshuo. We couldn't find a suitable car in Hongyan Village, so we called the driver who had brought us, negotiated the price—since drivers don't come in empty—and waited a bit. By the time we reached the ginkgo village, it was exactly five o'clock, and there was no sunlight anymore.

It's called a ginkgo village, but actually, it was just a few ginkgo trees about a dozen years old, planted by an old man. No entrance fee, just a voluntary parking fee of a few yuan. Although these ginkgo trees couldn't compare with the old ones in Haiyang Township, they were at their prime, with beautiful leaves. If only we had arrived an hour earlier to catch the sunlight (reminding me of the hour lost from missing the train). Without further ado, here are the photos...

I slightly adjusted the color of this one, very yellow and striking.

The group took all kinds of wild photos. By 5:30, it was getting dark, and we had taken enough. Satisfied, we got in the car and left.

This trip to Gongcheng had persimmons from Hongyan Village as the main course, and unexpectedly, we got a nice dessert—Beidongyuan ginkgo. Tomorrow, we still had a day to tour Yangshuo. Just thinking about it made me happy.

In the evening, we went to the county town of Gongcheng to visit Yaohan Health City and experience the unique Yao bath.

As the saying goes, "See mountains and rivers in Guilin; recuperate and vacation in Gongcheng." In Gongcheng, besides sightseeing, I heard from friends that the Yao medicine bath here was excellent. It is said that the Yao people have lived in deep mountains and forests since ancient times, fighting against dampness, miasma, and insect toxins, creating treasures like Yao medicine and Yao baths. Through medicinal baths, they achieve health care and disease prevention. Yao baths have also been included in the National Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection List.

By the time we arrived at Yaohan Health City, it was already dark.

The most representative is the "Three Soaks of Yao Medicine," which involves soaking in three time-interval medicinal packets. It not only deeply cleanses the skin but also beautifies, slims, promotes sleep, helps postpartum recovery, and regulates heart function.

The women's exclusive Yao bath—safflower bath powder—is made from various herbs like Paoshu Long, Jixueteng, Dizuan, Heilaohu, and Kuncai, with effects of dispelling wind and cold, nourishing blood and yin, and regulating liver and kidneys. It is very helpful for many women's diseases.

The decoration was also exquisite, with a natural and rustic style incorporating ethnic elements.

Each compartment allowed for easy interaction while ensuring privacy—very reasonable. After the bath, you could also have a traditional full-body SPA to relax and nurture your body and mind.

All of us tried it! After the Yao bath, my whole body felt indescribably relaxed, and I slept wonderfully that night.

There is a hotel inside Yaohan Health City called Chajiang Art Maison Hotel, so after the bath, you could go straight there.

We arrived at our booked room. Since we booked the deluxe room, it was very spacious, with a simple and elegant style—I fell in love immediately. The bedding was very clean, the quilt smelled of sunshine, clearly just aired.

The room was very spacious and cozy. Toiletries were fully equipped.

Today, at the front desk, I learned that the Health City offers eight free wellness programs for new visitors: free Traditional Chinese Medicine consultations, health robot check-ups, teaching of Five Animals Play, medicine king blessing activities, health-preserving tea, meditation, and free expert lectures.

After a good night's rest, I definitely wanted to try them tomorrow.

Participating in the Medicine King Blessing Activity.

This was the high-tech check-up device. You put your hands on the instrument, and in a few minutes, it would detect your preliminary health condition.

Leisurely Tour of Yangshuo Xingping (Wandering around)

Laozhai Mountain is neither too high nor too low, but it is steep. Carrying a camera up the mountain before dawn was no easy task—it felt as tough as climbing Lotus Lake and Dangling in the plateau. Here's a photo taken after coming down, back at the inn. The pavilion at the top right corner is the spot; I don't even know how I made it up there.

It took about half an hour to climb. Since it was winter, we got up early, and by the time we reached the top, it was pitch black. Only Uncle C and I were there. During the climb, I thought I was overdressed, but sitting at the top, it got cold. After sitting in the cold wind for a while, another person came up. I thought it was a guy, but when closer, I saw it was a short-haired girl, climbing alone in the dark. I really admired her. She said she came alone from Nanjing to Guilin by green train. Tomboy!

Gradually, the sky lightened. The weather was terrible—gray and hazy—no sunrise (even in good weather, you wouldn't see it; Laozhai Mountain faces sunset), no morning glow. I hastily took a few photos of Xingping's panorama and called it done.

Bad weather meant a quick finish.

Coming down the mountain, we called the other just-awakened friends and went looking for food. In Guilin, breakfast is naturally Guilin rice noodles! It tasted pretty good!

After breakfast, I suggested strolling around Xingping Pier to see the 20-yuan bill background, just a quick visit. The weather was still gray enough to make you doubt life.

After taking the obligatory photos, we didn't know what to do next. For about half an hour, everyone sat at the Li River Pier, each glued to their phones, frantically looking at maps and travel guides, trying to figure out how to spend the rest of the day. There was even talk about changing to an earlier train. Finally, Uncle C made a decisive call. He saw a place renting electric scooters and suggested renting them to drive around. Decision made. We negotiated: 100 yuan for three scooters, unlimited time. Off we went!

Xingping - Time to Kill

Without a clear destination, we just followed the riverbank. The actual route was roughly like this, ending at the dock below Nine Horses Fresco Hill.

Along the way, there were few cars, with occasional cyclists passing by. It felt quiet and leisurely. There were some homestays along the road, some quite new and distinctive. Those who dislike noise could stay here.

We stopped and went, when suddenly a ginkgo tree on the left side flashed into view. In a second, I made a decision, slowed down, checked the rearview mirror, signaled, and swerved to the opposite side of the road—all in one fluid motion. The friends behind followed.

Three electric scooters gathered under the ginkgo tree.

At that moment, the sky began to cooperate, and the sun came out! Everyone parked and frantically took photos of this ginkgo tree!

After a round of photos, it was time for lunch. We decided to eat right here, so we could enjoy the beautiful ginkgo tree. Besides the ginkgo, the environment was also beautiful.

We got a free-range chicken from under the ginkgo tree and a couple of home-grown vegetables. Delicious! The proprietor had lived in Zengcheng, Guangzhou for a long time and could speak Cantonese, which felt very familiar. I gave this meal 100 points.

The chicken was freshly killed, the vegetables freshly picked.

I really enjoyed this kind of leisurely independent travel—no need to rush to attractions. After eating, we drank Pu'er tea brewed by the host, watching the golden ginkgo leaves dance in the sunlight as they fell. Beautiful!

After a wonderful lunch, we continued riding along the road, soon reaching the end—the ferry at Nine Horses Fresco Hill. Many people tried to sell us boat rides on the Li River, either on the boat or going to the opposite bank to see the fresco and count horses. We weren't interested, so we turned back. A couple of nearby villages didn't have much to see either, so we drove the electric scooters directly onto the riverbank of the Li River. Across the river, a few trees had red leaves, which looked beautiful in the sunlight, though the scale was small.

Around 4:30, we started heading back. Back at the old town, there wasn't much else to do. We returned the scooters, wandered around Xingping Ancient Town, went back to the inn to pick up luggage and rest a bit, then called a car. Our booked train was at 18:38, and Xingping is very close to Yangshuo Station—about ten to twenty minutes. I originally wanted to stay to photograph the Li River sunset, but after the earlier incident of missing the train, I didn't dare to be too relaxed. I booked the car for 5:15. Seeing a little time left, I couldn't resist going down to the pier one more time.

Haha! There was a sunset, but no time. I took a few photos with my phone.

I caught a sunset, which was satisfying. As I got in the car, I saw in the rearview mirror that the sunset glow had dyed half the sky red. I regretted not waiting, but it was already perfect...

We arrived at Yangshuo Station smoothly at 5:30. Thus, the two-day trip to Guangxi ended perfectly. The average cost per person was around 1,000 yuan. Guangxi, I will definitely come again!