You Cannot Truly Appreciate the Beauty of Guilin's Scenery Without Wandering Through It Yourself
Before coming to Guilin, my impression of it was limited to a phrase from elementary school textbooks: 'Guilin's scenery is the best under heaven.' As for how it earned that reputation, you cannot truly appreciate the exquisite beauty without wandering through Guilin's landscapes yourself.
In mid-December 2018, taking advantage of a free weekend, I joined nearly 30 colleagues from the company for a 'free and easy' trip to Guilin. Our local host, an enthusiastic native of Guilin and the head of one of our company's business lines in the Guilin office, handled ground arrangements, itinerary planning, and guiding. Our route went: Guilin city center—Yangshuo County—Xingping County—Guilin city center—then pack up and head home. Thus began our three-day, two-night 'Landscape and Culture Tour' of Guilin.
Upon arriving in Guilin, I immediately felt that it truly deserves its reputation as a city of mountains and waters. The mountains in the city are elegant and not very tall, giving a friendly, approachable feeling. They dot the city in clusters, and climbing them in leisure time would be a delightful experience. The landmark 'Two Rivers and Four Lakes' is a famous scenic spot in Guilin. At night, the lakes and rivers are especially beautiful under the reflection of landscape lights. Along the rivers and lakes, parks are scattered like chess pieces. The famous Seven Star Cave is located in Seven Star Park, while Elephant Trunk Hill sits not far away in Elephant Trunk Hill Park. Mountains and waters complement each other, full of charm. If you have spare time to take a boat ride on the Two Rivers and Four Lakes, it offers another refreshing and carefree experience.
(Seven Star Cave Karst Cave)
(Twin Pagodas of the Two Rivers and Four Lakes)
We didn't stay long in the city because time was limited and many famous attractions are in the subordinate counties. So we went straight to the main spots. On Friday evening, we checked into the hotel, had dinner, and rested for the night before heading to the main attractions. However, I would like to recommend the restaurant we dined at on Friday—Chuanshan Rock Wine Cellar. It's a very stylish restaurant in Guilin, located right at the main gate of Chuanshan Park.
As a wine-culture themed restaurant, wine naturally takes center stage. Pushing open the door, a variety of wine vessels catch the eye, a collection of fine wines fills the air with rich aroma, intoxicating visitors. After dinner, we wanted to take photos, so the cellar staff led us into the wine cellar. Only then did we realize there was a hidden secret here. The layout is 'front hall, back cellar'—the front hall is for display and dining, while the back cellar holds the wine vault for aging fine wines. In the narrow cellar, wine jars lined the walls in a winding array. Under the dim lights, it exuded an antique charm and a bohemian vibe. If such a restaurant opened in Beijing, it would attract many literary youth like moths to a flame.
(Group photo at Chuanshan Rock Wine Cellar)
After staying one night at a hotel in the Two Rivers and Four Lakes area, we took a rented bus to Yangshuo, a major destination of our 'Landscape and Culture Tour.' There is a saying in Guilin: 'Guilin's scenery is the best under heaven, and Yangshuo's scenery is the best within Guilin.' As a place blessed with natural beauty, Yangshuo embodies the best of Guilin's landscapes. Everywhere you look, mountains surround rivers, waters are clear, and the scenery is superb. Tourism development and commercial facilities are relatively mature. Wandering among the intertwined mountains and waters, people forget their worries.
Our first stop in Yangshuo was the 'Shangri-La' scenic area. As the name suggests, it emphasizes leisurely life and natural scenery. Half of the tour is on water. Sitting on a sightseeing boat, drifting on clear river water with rippling waves, green mountains along the way come into view like charming birds. If we had taken bamboo rafts, I imagine everyone would have been pointing and praising the scenery enthusiastically.
(Boating at Shangri-La)
(Scenery of Shangri-La's Mountains and Waters)
The second stop was the Eternal Love of Guilin Scenic Area, a cultural tourism project created by Songcheng Performing Arts, a signature attraction in Yangshuo. The area was crowded with tourists. The imitation ancient market streets combined the flavor of an ancient market with a strong modern commercial atmosphere. Occasionally, performances in costume or modern style—plots, concepts, and special shows—drew cheers from visitors. Examples include the 'Street Flash Mob Culture Show,' the plot performance 'Master Mo Chooses a Son-in-Law,' the technical 'Water Flying Man,' and a haunted house. Of course, the main purpose was to watch the grand theatrical performance 'Eternal Love of Guilin.' It consists of several acts that are both connected and independent, divided into five themes: Legend of Guilin, Songs Flying Over the Earth, The Eternal Lingqu Canal, Love Song of Lijiang River, and Searching for Liu Sanjie. From legends to reality, it was magnificent. What touched me most was the actors' dedication; they performed with heart. I specially observed each actor's expressions and details, finding that even those on the fringes or as background were seriously playing their roles. That's truly commendable.
(Eternal Love of Guilin performance)
(Flash mob performance. PS: No one expected that some actors had disguised themselves as cool and stern security guards. After the ladies finished dancing, the 'security guards' suddenly burst into dance!)
The third stop was strolling along West Street. In the evening, we tasted the most authentic beer fish there. Afterwards, everyone scattered like sparrows to explore the wonders of West Street. West Street, nestled against the Lijiang River, is the busiest area in Yangshuo town and the most commercially mature attraction. The Lijiang River is serene, while West Street is lively—a perfect balance of stillness and motion. West Street's nightlife is bustling, with all kinds of shops, many bars, and dense crowds. Tourists from all over the country come here to 'seek pleasure,' and lingering long might make one forget to return home.
(West Street in Yangshuo bustling with activity)
On the third day, our last stop in this landscape and culture tour was Xingping, with the main activity being a boat ride on the Lijiang River. Needless to say, it was mainly to enjoy the mountain and water scenery along the river. During nearly two hours on the boat, our eyes were truly feasted on beautiful sights. A highlight was taking photos at the spot where the 20-yuan banknote's background image was taken—we checked in there, haha!
(Checking in at the 20-yuan banknote background spot)
(Lijiang River scenery)
As I write this, it's time to wrap up. The three-day, two-night trip to Guilin left me feeling it was truly worthwhile. If you come in spring or autumn, the scenery would be even more spectacular. According to the Guilin station head, in October, Guilin is in full bloom with sweet osmanthus flowers, and the whole city is filled with a rich fragrance. The mountains are more elegant, and the waters more gentle. I hope I'll have another chance to enjoy Guilin's splendid scenery in warm weather.