Guilin and Yangshuo in the Dry Season

Guilin in the dry season loses its misty, rain-soaked atmosphere but gains a poetic sense of towering peaks and vast open landscapes.

Arriving at Guilin North Station around 5-6 PM on Friday, I was greeted by a beautiful sunset and clouds right outside the station. I marveled at the fresh air of Guilin!

Due to the dry season, the water level at Elephant Trunk Hill was much lower, exposing the base of the hill. There were not many people, making the visit quite pleasant.

Because of the dry season and hazy weather, the distant mountains were not very clear, creating an ethereal misty atmosphere. I rented an electric scooter (20 yuan per day). I heard that those who don't know how to ride an e-scooter might get stuck in traffic in Yangshuo, but in December, Yangshuo was quiet and serene. Cruising along the Li River on the e-scooter, there were almost no cars on the road. Mountains and waters passed by on the side, with a gentle breeze blowing—such a relaxing experience.

A 20-yuan scenic spot (Lijiang landscape on the back of the 20-yuan note).

Bamboo Rafting on the Yulong River:

Contrary to online rumors, the bamboo raft tickets were not hard to get. I booked at around 10 PM and there were still many tickets available, perhaps due to the off-season. I chose the route from Shui'edi to Gongnong Wharf (200 yuan per raft, max 2 persons). It had 4 dams to cross. I took a taxi directly to the pier and boarded immediately without queuing. My boatman was an elderly man nearly 50. He chatted while rowing, and the 40-minute ride felt just right. I gave him a 5-yuan tip because I felt he worked hard. There was no demand for 66 or 88 yuan tips as some online comments say, nor did he speed up without a tip. The scenery on both sides was truly picturesque. With a gentle breeze and some sunlight, it brought warmth to the winter Yulong River. During the trip, I chatted with the boatman about the wages of raft workers. In the past, they could accept tips, but around July this year, after complaints during peak season, they were banned from taking tips. If caught, their boat would be suspended for three months. For a 200-yuan raft, the boatman gets 50 yuan commission; for a 320-yuan raft, he gets 80 yuan. Someone his age can do at most 4-5 trips a day, while younger, stronger men can do 7-8 trips. Since there are only 300 boatmen at one dock, and it's off-season with more workers than rafts, they row faster to earn more. For those seeking excitement, the Jinlongqiao Wharf route (320 yuan for two people) has 9 dams and reportedly might get you wet, haha.

Booking: Search for "Yulong River" on official WeChat account, click "Service", then "Ticket Purchase Channel". There are 6 routes. We chose Shui'edi to Gongnong Wharf (200 yuan/raft).

This is a raft that was swept onto a tree during the 2020 Guangxi flood, as told by the boatman.

We went in December, and unfortunately, Xianggong Mountain was under renovation—visitors had to descend before 8 AM, so we canceled that plan and climbed Laozhai Mountain instead. Laozhai Mountain is a relatively undeveloped hill. Along the way, there are many graves. The climb is steep; the elderly and children should assess their ability. It takes about half an hour to ascend (Location: next to Xingping Pier, a small entrance leads up). The weather was hazy that day, but the view from the top was nice, though I regretted not being able to see the sunset.

Pass through this opening and climb a 90-degree ladder to reach the summit.

I still didn't dare to step out further, so I just took a photo here—a bit regretful.

I heard that in Guilin, you shouldn't spend more than 5 yuan for 2 liang (100g) of rice noodles. Near my accommodation, I found an unassuming shop (Fuchun Rice Noodles), a true hole-in-the-wall. The price was right (5 yuan for 2 liang), with many toppings available. Tastes great—highly recommended.

Address: Zhengyang Pedestrian Street.

Glutinous rice balls from a street stall, 8 yuan each, a bit pricey and average taste. Good for those who like sticky rice.

Address: Zhengyang Pedestrian Street.

My friend was obsessed with cassava root (木薯根), which was soft and chewy, delicious. She ate three big bowls in three days and still wanted more.

Address: Zhengyang Street Sugar Water Shop.

Chuntea (Dongxiang Alley branch).

Checked out a famous Guilin milk tea shop. Not crowded. I didn't order (because I don't like milk...). My friend ordered a bamboo basket milk tea (19 yuan). She said it was very good, rich in milk flavor. After ordering, you can get a stamp—full of ritual. Girls love it! OMG!

Address: Dongxiang Alley, Xiufeng District, Guilin (No. 9-6 Donghua Road).

Fried skewers by the Li River... 10 yuan per skewer... not great... Also fried locusts...

A shop in Yangshuo West Street specializing in oil tea (leicha). Four of us ordered one cup to try. It tasted like soup, ginger soup, with a slight bitterness at the end. I liked the crispy and soft balls on top.