Chatting Through Pictures: Seven Days and Six Nights Chasing Snow and Aurora in Finland
If you've done your homework; if you're a visual person; if you just want to experience or reminisce, then 'Chatting Through Pictures' is happy to share the moments of the journey with you.
Finland has always been a relatively low-key country; everyone understands the Nordic cool style, so I hadn't paid much attention to it before. It wasn't until a few years ago, during the peak aurora year, that a friend's tour group could go see the aurora and chat with Santa Claus for just over 8,000 RMB. That advertisement spurred me, someone who never had enough annual leave. Now I have enough annual leave, but the peak aurora year has passed. During the Spring Festival, even plane tickets alone cost over 10,000 RMB. However, seeing the aurora has always been in my top three wish list. Two like-minded friends and I planned this trip a year in advance. Then I thought, since my parents are still in good health, let's be crazy together! So the seventh season of 'Traveling with Parents' was born.
Teaming up with my friend Jiang, who has been organizing European tours for over a decade, made things much easier. We divided the work and booked flights and hotels months in advance. After all, during the Spring Festival and peak tourist season, it's recommended to book hotels at least 3-4 months ahead.
Here is our itinerary: a 7-day, 6-night schedule well-balanced between activity and relaxation.
More than a month before departure, we prepared documents and had Jiang handle the visa application. Besides standard documents like employment and financial proof, we also needed to prepare all flight and hotel booking confirmations. Since we had applied for Schengen visas before, we didn't need to go in person for fingerprinting. Because of Christmas and New Year, it took over half a month to get the visa.
Pre-departure preparation:
Here's a list of travel essentials for reference: passport (and digital copy), ID card (digital), driver's license (and translation), euros, phone, selfie stick, power bank, various chargers (and cables), adapter, clothes, hat, gloves, scarf, raincoat, shoes, pajamas, tissues, alcohol wipes, disposable items (toothbrush, toothpaste, slippers, etc.), cosmetics, skincare (hydration and anti-allergy are must-haves), glasses, umbrella, sunglasses, tape, luggage scale, sunscreen, hand warmers, thermos, electric kettle, personal medications, instant noodles, snacks, Lock&Lock cup or bowl, anti-static spray, overseas SIM card.
Because of the extremely low temperatures in the polar region, electronics' battery life is unstable, so I didn't rent a WiFi device. Instead, I bought a SIM card on Ctrip that I could plug directly into my phone. It had data and calling capabilities, was stable, and cheap. Recommended.
Regarding clothing: if you like skiing, you can prepare a ski suit. If not, a thick down jacket with waterproof and windproof outdoor pants and jacket will do. Generally, from the inside out: thermal underwear, sweater or fleece, thin down jacket, waterproof and windproof jacket or thick down jacket, outdoor pants with fleece lining, waterproof and anti-skid snow boots (I don't blindly follow brands, and considering low everyday use, I found a highly cost-effective pair on Taobao), thin gloves (for operating cameras) plus ski gloves, a warm hat that also looks stylish. Also, bring some vests or fleece-lined tights, because if you go out at night, you might need to wear them all. Hand warmers depend on personal need; we only used them at night. We didn't stick many on our bodies; we put them in pockets or on hats, and if needed, on cameras and phones. Personally, I think sticking them on your feet may cause moisture and make you colder; for example, during ice floating, they can be used for a short time.
Finnair is quite something; pre-selecting seats costs money, ranging from 15 to 85 euros. The most expensive are the premium economy seats at the front, with about ten centimeters more legroom than standard economy. Don't underestimate that; it's quite friendly for people with long legs like us. They also offer noise-canceling headphones, a personal travel kit, and 1 hour of free onboard WiFi (only for those who paid for pre-selected seats) and priority boarding. Since we didn't think the value was great, we didn't buy it in advance, hoping that during online check-in we could at least get a window seat. But online check-in still didn't allow seat selection... Okay, whatever. When we arrived at the airport, we were assigned premium economy seats. Nice luck.
Traveling with parents during the Spring Festival was a first for us. Even in such a special period, many friends and relatives envied us. The epidemic struck fiercely, catching everyone off guard. Just before departure, it was in the outbreak period, and the tourism industry was hit hard; many tours were cancelled. Although our independent travel wasn't affected much, we still set off with some unease and uncertainty.
The airport was business as usual, with quite a few people, probably because it was the last day of group tours. The only difference was that everyone wore masks. The flight attendants were calm, only one Chinese attendant wore a mask.
Finnair goes all out in promoting Finnish products. As soon as we boarded the plane, we saw the iittala Ultima Thule series glasses used for serving drinks in business class. As a famous Finnish glassware brand, you can see and buy it everywhere. Later, we used Marimekko's napkins and cups, a national treasure of Finland for prints and patterns. After about 10 hours of flight, the simple circular patterns were etched into our minds.
When the plane approached the destination, the cabin lit up with 'Northern Lights'.
We arrived in Helsinki in under 10 hours smoothly. At the transfer point, we had to go through security again. There were stations for dumping water, liquid disposal bags, and trash, with clear instructions.
After security, we could start eating and shopping. Besides luxury brands, the Finnish brands promoted on the plane were everywhere. Also, Finland's famous chocolate brand Fazer, skincare brand LUMENE, and the national cartoon character Moomin were all good options for keepsakes or gifts.
Another reason I like this airport is the strong Christmas atmosphere.
Wooden figurines I didn't buy.
Of course, since we just arrived, we could scout and come back later to stock up.
At the airport, I saw familiar Ajisen Ramen, and then looked at the price... well, that's Nordic pricing. Why spend several times more for ramen here?
Not sure if we'd have time to visit the Moomin café in the city, so we decided to eat at the airport first.
The food was just average; the strawberries seemed frozen.
After a stroll and a meal, we cleared customs and officially entered the EU zone. Here, you need to have your passport and travel documents ready, like printed itineraries, flight and hotel bookings, because the officers sometimes check very carefully. Electronic copies on your phone are also acceptable.
After customs, we prepared to transfer to Ivalo. The sun began to set around 4 PM—a bit early, isn't it?
In about an hour and a half, we officially arrived in the Lapland region within the Arctic Circle. Ivalo Airport is the northernmost airport in Finland, about 30 kilometers from Saariselkä, where we were going.
First, some background: Lapland is not a city but a region that spans Finland, Norway, Sweden, and Russia within the Arctic Circle. In winter, Lapland is an excellent place to observe the Northern Lights and enjoy snow activities.
Although there are over 200 nights per year when the Northern Lights can be seen, many conditions must be met: clear weather, avoiding a full moon, away from light pollution, and a high aurora index. So, seeing the Northern Lights depends on luck!
The best months for aurora observation are from late September to early April, with higher probability in winter from December to February. The optimal time is usually between 10 PM and 2 AM.
The aurora index generally refers to the KP value, which ranges from 0 to 10. The higher the KP value, the broader and stronger the aurora. Generally, a KP of around 2 is hard to see with the naked eye; a KP of 3-4 is usually visible; and a KP of 5-6 is very active.
Recommended prediction website: https://www.gi.alaska.edu/monitors/aurora-forecast
App: Aurora Forecast
I started checking the website predictions a month in advance. Typically, there's a 27-day cycle, with a few days of higher activity every 27 days, though sometimes there are high values in between. Unfortunately, the days we were there fell in the middle, with indices around 2. I thought we might miss the Aurora Goddess. My friend said philosophically, 'No worries, if we don't see her, it means she wants to see us again!' Indeed, sometimes unexpected surprises come from anticipation and uncertainty, and regrets are the beginning of the next serendipity.
Since I didn't dress warmly when leaving, I didn't feel too cold in Helsinki, only adding long johns. But stepping off the plane, the temperature dropped sharply, and I shivered. Once inside, I quickly changed into thicker clothes.
Ivalo Airport is truly tiny. Inside, it's just the baggage claim area—you can see it all at a glance.
We collected our luggage and went out. The hotel was supposed to arrange a pickup, but we didn't see our names. We called the hotel, but no one answered. Based on my friend's experience, at 7 PM they had probably finished work. This was our first taste of the Nordic laid-back working style.
We waited a bit longer, confirmed no driver was coming, and took a taxi at the door. The 30-minute ride cost about 70 euros.
Saariselkä, also known as Sari Mountain, is located in northern Lapland within the Arctic Circle. It's a famous skiing and hiking destination. Due to its high latitude, it's also a good area for aurora sightings. The most famous Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort, with its glass igloos, is here. Many other types of glass houses have been built in the area. To increase our chances of seeing the aurora, we decided to stay here for three nights. Originally, we wanted to book a log cabin for three consecutive nights, but to experience a glass igloo, I chose a new hotel opened in 2017, which I'll introduce later.
First, let me introduce our log cabin for the first two nights: Log House Kuukkeli. It's located in the center of Saariselkä, somewhat like a B&B. The only inconvenience is that the check-in point is a few hundred meters away. The taxi dropped us at the check-in point, which is also next to the largest (and probably only) supermarket, K Market. As my friend Jiang expected, our room key was lying on the so-called front desk table. When we were confirming, a staff member appeared, briefly confirmed, and handed us the keys.
The taxi driver was very nice; knowing our cabin was a bit farther, he waited and drove us to the door. Stepping onto the thick snow, we approached the log cabin. Although we hadn't slept for almost 24 hours, my excitement kicked in fully.
The cabin was rustic and simple, with a small bathroom. But a small night light by the window fully reflected the Nordic sense of life's rituals.
After a quick rest, we went back to the supermarket to buy some snacks and drinks. Though it was only a little past 8 PM, there were few people on the street. I checked the aurora KP index for tonight, looked up at the sky, and felt the chances were slim. I decided to rest early, hoping for a surprise tomorrow.
Probably too excited, I woke up after only 3-4 hours of sleep. In the morning, we had booked snowmobiling and ice fishing. At 7:30, we went for breakfast at a place next to the supermarket. Outside was still pitch black. Though knowing the chances were slim, I kept looking up expectantly. Suddenly, behind a row of houses, I spotted a faint band in the sky. At KP2, the naked eye usually sees a pale milky-white band, but a camera can capture green aurora. I quickly took a photo with my phone. Not sure, but if you think it is, then it is.
On the other side of the sky, different colors appeared. It seemed like good weather!
Breakfast was standard, enough to fill up. There were many fish products, fresh, so I tried them. Hmm... strawberry-flavored pickled fish? Forgive me for not appreciating it!
After breakfast, the sky had richer colors—blue mixed with pinkish purple, beautifully reflecting off the snow. Note: it was already around 8:40 AM!
The booked car arrived on time at the restaurant door. After a 5-6 minute drive, we arrived at this Safarishop.
Snowmobiles were for two people. The driver needed a license. Although we brought our licenses and translations, they weren't checked. Everything here relies on trust! Then the guy brought out a notebook with some rules, stating that you need a license to drive, etc. Most importantly, there was a page about compensation if the vehicle was damaged—quite expensive, a few hundred euros. Then there was an insurance-like option for 15 euros per vehicle, reducing the compensation cost in case of damage. I thought it depended on the person; generally, major accidents are unlikely, but none of us had done this before, so we chose peace of mind. Then the guy provided uniform clothing, socks, and boots based on our sizes. The clothes needed to be worn over our own jackets, so dressing up was quite tiring. Then came balaclavas (bring your own if you're particular), helmets, and gloves. It's recommended to wear a thick pair of ski gloves underneath. Once fully dressed, we were hardly recognizable.
After dressing, we followed the guy to the parking area. He explained in detail how to drive, ride, and the rules and hand signals. Once everyone understood, we set off. Since we had an odd number, my mom rode in the trailer behind the guy's snowmobile, covered with a large reindeer hide to keep warm.
Everyone was driving for the first time, so speeds were slow initially, gradually picking up. Riding across the snowy landscape at sunrise was truly a unique experience! As the sky turned red, the guy kindly let us stop briefly for photos.
Eventually, we drove onto a lake with no tracks. Following instructions, we had to stay in the tracks the guy made. At the last moment, my friend still went off-track.
The guy took out tools and taught us how to drill holes for ice fishing. Although drilling uses leverage, it was still a bit difficult for women. Ice fishing was just an experience; no one would sit there at minus ten degrees. After drilling 2-3 small holes, we happily took photos.
After all, as southern kids who had never seen such heavy snow, forgive us for being so amazed. We threw ourselves into the snow, had a snowball fight, tossed snow beautifully into the air, and built a snowman—all our childhood wishes.
While we were joyfully playing in the snow, the guy had quietly gone to a nearby tent to start a fire and prepare hot drinks and grilled sausages.
When we were tired, we entered the warm tent, sat by the fire, and enjoyed a hot coffee or wild berry juice. It was fantastic. Although simple, they even had vegetarian sausages for vegetarians—very thoughtful.
Drinking such a hot drink outdoors felt amazing. My friend and I both fell in love with the rough cups. The guy said they were made of wood and plastic composite, lightweight and practical, perfect for outdoor use.
While eating and chatting, I showed the guy the morning photo and asked if it was the aurora. The honest guy hesitated, 'Emmm...'. My friend urged, 'Just say YES!' The guy got it and nodded repeatedly. Yes, sometimes women don't want the correct answer but the answer they want to hear! Hahaha.
The guy was really sincere. When we said ice fishing seemed hard and no fish bit, he silently drove the snowmobile farther to fish. Later, he returned and told us he had drilled about ten more holes but still no catch. Maybe the fish heard the noise and moved elsewhere or deeper.
After packing up the ice fishing gear and tent, we prepared to head back. The guy threw the leftover sausages onto the snow, saying they wouldn't go to waste and would feed the animals. Those footprints were from a fox.
On the way back, we let my mom enjoy the snowmobile, and I rode in the trailer. I could also enjoy the snow scenery quietly.
Along the way, any exposed part turned from black to white.
After returning and changing clothes, my friend and I couldn't wait to each buy a Kupilka cup. This Finnish-designed outdoor cup is truly special. Later, I looked it up online: Kupilka means 'Little Cup', from the Finnish word 'Kuppi' (cup). The material is 50% pine tree fiber and 50% thermoplastic, suitable for temperatures from -30°C to 100°C.
We thought the day's activities were over. Since the aurora index was low those days, we were quite laid-back about it. If we could see it, we would see it anywhere; if not, chasing wouldn't help. But I felt we should at least try, as an experience. So, considering our schedule, I decided to book a simple aurora hunting tour for the evening. It was essentially a guide driving us around to chase the aurora, costing 80 euros per person, relatively cheap compared to other tours.
The hotel offered an activity price list.
The booking guy kindly reminded us about dressing in layers—like an onion: wear multiple layers of close-fitting clothing, each not too thick, but with good insulation, to stay warmer than a single thick coat. After booking, we returned to the supermarket next door to buy some food and rest. We strolled through small shops and admired various Nordic-style cottages.
I loved the snow on the roofs, like thick cream cake.
Back at our log cabin around 3:30 PM, the sky was getting dark. Was this already sunset?
Moomin juice from the supermarket—cute and delicious.
Many drink options too.
Tonight, we visited the town's trendy burger joint, known for its special meat burgers. Here, special meat is as common as beef or lamb, available in almost every restaurant. The place was small, with only four tables. We arrived early and had it to ourselves.
The so-called special meat burger was actually a regular beef burger with an extra slice of smoked special meat. It was okay, acceptable. The place was open until late, presumably for tourists returning from aurora hunting.
Our aurora hunt started at 8 PM. We arrived at the meeting point early. The guide was a young woman. She didn't check our booking receipt, just asked our names and confirmed the headcount, then we set off directly.
She reminded us that it was very cold, temperatures dropping to around -33°C at night. We came prepared, with hand warmers on our bodies, in pockets, and even on our hats.
First stop was a hill in town with a small platform. The sky was clear, full of stars. I felt dizzy for a moment—I always get a bit dizzy when first looking at a starry sky, then gradually adjust. My friend set up her tripod and camera, bundling it up like a dumpling. Electronic devices lose battery quickly in low temperatures, so we tried to wrap them in a small cotton jacket with hand warmers to preserve power. But being our first attempt, we fumbled. The flashlight we used for illumination died after just a few minutes. Some kind girls nearby used their phones to light the way. We chatted; they were also from Shanghai, staying at the hotel we were checking into tomorrow—the Northern Lights Village. They said it was a short walk from the hotel, and they didn't join any tour, just came out every day to try their luck. We waited on the platform for a while, but besides stars, there seemed no hope.
The guide suggested we move to the next spot. After a half-hour drive, we stopped near Ivalo at a lake. We carefully stepped onto the frozen lake. The guide prepared hot drinks and cookies to warm us. After a few minutes, my friend and mom couldn't bear the cold and went back to the car. My other friend and I continued waiting. The guide escorted them back and then returned to wait with us. We chatted, and I showed her the morning photo. She couldn't confirm either but said it might be, as long as there was no other light source. If there wasn't, then it definitely was. Indeed, even though the lake was relatively dark, there were roads nearby, and cars passing by would light up half the sky. So it was easy to confuse. Since learning that the aurora can sometimes appear faint to the naked eye, I felt like everything looked a bit like it. But generally, artificial light stays close to the horizon, while aurora floats in the sky, like this.
What the naked eye sees is mostly milky white; only the camera records a faint green. With a filter, it looks better. At -33°C and KP2, I should be content with a starry aurora photo.
I think the guide wanted to wrap up early and asked if we were ready to leave. She said if she spotted anything on the way back, she'd stop for us. Unfortunately, no more surprises. For aurora hunting tours, later times like 9 PM to midnight are recommended for higher chances.
Look at our camera bundled up like a dumpling.
We returned to the cabin around 11 PM. My friend and I checked behind the cabin with a glimmer of hope. Although nothing, the first day of snow and aurora chasing was quite fulfilling.
Sunrise colors were still dreamy.
No specific activities today. We had a leisurely breakfast and bought some ingredients for dinner at the supermarket. Before check-out at noon, we explored and took photos nearby.
Today, we would check into the most anticipated hotel of the trip: the Northern Lights Village. When booking, I considered its location on a hill with good views, and it was newly opened at the end of 2017, with private bathrooms and semi-open glass roofs for privacy. Although prices were higher during Spring Festival, we decided to experience it for one night.
We had the hotel arrange a car to pick us up. The Holiday Club next to the cabin was easy to recognize as a pickup point.
While waiting, I noticed a frost tree on the glass—natural art.
From the village to the hotel was about a 10-minute drive, costing a dozen euros.
Here's an official panoramic view. The hotel is divided into several separate areas. The reception is in a standalone building on the right, which also houses the bar and restaurant. Directly in front are our glass igloos, and the row of villas on the left are other room types.
Since check-in time is generally 4 PM, our aurora glass igloo wasn't ready yet, so we went to our friends' room first. They booked a landscape suite in the building behind reception, resembling a row of small villas.
The room was relatively spacious, with a bed upstairs in a small loft and a sofa bed downstairs, plus a balcony. The price was cheaper than the glass igloo, offering better value.
The view from the balcony, but the clouds were thick today.
We had some afternoon tea.
Noodles too hot? Open the balcony door for instant cooling.
The string lights were originally for decoration in the glass igloo, but we first set them up in our friends' room to create some atmosphere.
Again around 3:30 PM, the sky darkened. The clouds were thick today; the night looked uncertain.
We got our room key from reception and eagerly checked into the aurora glass igloo. All glass igloos are on a small slope opposite the reception building. I'll attach two exterior photos taken the next morning.
The room was indeed small and cute.
Behind the minibar was the bed. Under the bed on both sides were two movable small beds. Of course, the main purpose of staying in a glass igloo isn't comfort but lying in bed and watching the aurora (though we didn't know if we'd see it).
In the evening, we visited our friends' 'home' (like visiting relatives during Spring Festival). The capable Pan prepared a rich dinner using ingredients she brought and local ones.
Spring onion oil noodles with hometown flavor.
Salmon miso soup.
Night view.
After dinner, we returned to the glass igloo to set up for photos. Even if we didn't see the aurora, we wanted memories in the glass igloo. Special praise to my friend for fixing the string lights after the wire broke, making them work again. Otherwise, we wouldn't have these photos.
Over the next two hours, my mom complained about the glass igloo's value for money. First, the room temperature wasn't high enough and insulation was poor. Then, after two people showered, hot water ran out. The biggest bug: although the room had a phone, it couldn't call the front desk. I had asked earlier, and the front desk said nonchalantly, 'Just come over, it's not far.' But it took so much effort to put on pants, jacket, and shoes each time! However, without hot water for a shower, we had to go. A staff member came and found a tripped switch. I asked about the temperature; they said all rooms were constant at 25°C and couldn't be adjusted. Well...
We went to bed around 10 PM, all very tired. I opened the app to check the aurora index; it was expected to reach around 3 in the next hour. But outside, the sky was still cloudy, unlike last night's clear sky. My parents were too tired and turned off the lights to sleep. Lying under the all-glass ceiling was a bit unusual. My mom suddenly said, 'Hey, is there a person on the roof across the way?' Hahaha, Mom, that's a chimney! Indeed, lying under the glass roof, although there was no light source, the light from the reception building behind reflected up, which was a bit unsettling.
The glass roof seal wasn't great; we could hear the wind howling. Soon, steady breathing sounds. In the darkness, I was the only one waiting silently, reminding myself not to fall asleep. I didn't know what I was waiting for, but waiting was all I could do. Suddenly, I saw a bright star in the distance. Was this a good sign? Was the sky clearing? Indeed, the Aurora Goddess was still favoring me. Slowly, a pale band appeared before my eyes. Based on yesterday's experience, I knew without a camera confirmation: this was it, because its color and density were deeper than yesterday. I quickly woke my parents. They jumped out of bed and dressed at a speed that could qualify for military service. We all geared up quickly. With practice from yesterday, the camera was also quickly wrapped in an 'outer coat' with hand warmers. My friend and I set off.
We went behind the glass igloo, which was the north side visible from the room. We tried different angles, needing an open view while avoiding light sources. It was windy and snowing lightly. We finally hid behind a bus to take photos. Although the index wasn't high, it was much better than yesterday. We photographed for about an hour, and then decided to go back.
My mom had said she'd come out too, so we didn't bring the room key. At the door, we knocked for a while with no response. We took turns banging on the door until our hands were red, but still couldn't wake my sleeping mom. Finally, we had to go to the front desk for a spare key card. I explained the situation to the receptionist, who smiled knowingly. On our way back to the room, we looked up and saw a brilliant green glow swirling and dancing in the sky.
I had imagined that moment of aurora explosion—staring at the sky, tears streaming uncontrollably. But at that moment, my friend and I let out a 'Wow' and rushed to the door to grab the camera and start shooting. That kind of excitement is indescribable—a blank rush. This was it. The Aurora Goddess's skirt danced gracefully across the sky—sometimes light and ethereal, sometimes flowing, sometimes twirling. This visual feast felt like a small encouragement from the goddess for my patient waiting. Happiness came too suddenly!
I returned to the room once because my hands were numb from cold. I ran warm water over them. I don't remember if I woke my mom. Later, when I entered the room again, she was sitting on the bed, watching the aurora show through the glass. I took a few quick photos.
By then, the feast was nearing its end. It arrived without warning and left quietly. When everything settled, it was as if nothing had happened, but it left a surge in our hearts. Everything tonight was so unexpected, yet seemingly destined.
Later, I joked with my mom that I was going to scold her for not answering the door, but instead, I praised her. Even if we had entered the room in time, we wouldn't have missed the show, but the little incident added drama to the memory. Of course, a few hours earlier, the glass igloo was being criticized, but now it had redeemed itself, skyrocketing in value!
Waking up in the glass igloo in the early morning, still savoring the experience. At breakfast, we shared the little happiness with friends.
The restaurant had a great view, but it was still dark after 9 AM. I felt reluctant to leave this place full of beautiful memories.
Yesterday we saw the goddess of the Arctic Circle; today we would meet the god of the Arctic Circle. Though we aren't children anymore, meeting Santa Claus has a magical power to make one feel young again.
We booked a bus to Rovaniemi around 10:30 AM, and the hotel arranged a taxi to the bus station in the village. The station was next to yesterday's Safarishop. Look for this sign.
Here's a photo for you.
The bus arrived on time. The driver checked the list, and we took assigned seats. The bus made several stops, including a special small passenger. The journey took about three and a half hours, with one rest stop.
Rovaniemi, the capital of Lapland, is a must-visit city in Finland. Santa Claus Village is the top attraction. It is recognized by the United Nations as the hometown of Santa Claus, and the Santas here are officially certified. There are only about fifty genuine Santas worldwide. Three must-do things at Santa Claus Village: take a photo with Santa, send a postcard from Santa's Post Office, and cross the Arctic Circle to get a certificate.
From the bus stop, we walked through a tunnel to the village entrance. Upon stepping into the village, the festive atmosphere was overwhelming, with tourists acting like children. The first building housed the information desk and a market. The most striking feature was the 66°33′07″N Arctic Circle line on the ground. Everyone crossed it to prove they had reached the Arctic Circle, which also meant you could experience polar day or night if the timing was right. At the information desk nearby, you could buy an Arctic Circle certificate for 4.5 euros.
We were staying in the village that night. It took a while to find the check-in place because many buildings looked alike. Basically, it was further in, past the outdoor Arctic Circle line, next to Santa's Office. There was a sign at the door. I included photos taken by my friend during the day and by me at night.
The front desk staff were very welcoming—the village's atmosphere was different. After checking in, they gave us a map showing the room location and introduced the main spots and restaurants in the village.
Across from the front desk was the activity booking office. We had pre-booked a reindeer sleigh ride: 400 meters for 18 euros. We could choose a time slot and go with the ticket.
After checking in, we exited, passed Santa's Office, and walked a bit further to the entrance of Santa Claus Holiday Village. The red cottages were dreamy, but our room was a bit far, so dragging our luggage was tiring.
Finally, we reached our cabin—two rooms in one house.
The room was spacious, with a sauna in the bathroom. My parents said we should have stayed two nights. Though the hotel wasn't new, the experience offered great value.
The room had a kitchen with pots and pans, suitable for a family vacation.
The lamp decorations were made of antlers.
The small forest behind the room was a great photo spot, but we didn't have enough time for more than a few shots.
We wanted to experience Santa's ride before dark. The reindeer sleigh was for two people per sled; odd numbers ride alone.
My parents' reindeer was quite handsome.
Sitting in the sled, watching the little reindeer's butt wiggle was adorable.
Then we went to Santa's Office, up to the second floor. There was no queue, and we were soon invited in.
Santa first shook hands and chatted briefly. He asked where we were from. When we said Shanghai, he said he had been there during the Expo. I said maybe we met then. He smiled and said yes, then looked at my mom and said, 'Back then, she was still a little girl.' This Nordic humor caught us off guard. Okay, take a photo for the record. At the counter, we could see the photos; usually, you choose between two, which are similar. Different packages were available—just photos, digital copies, or video, with different prices.
Outside was a souvenir shop. Paying with the room key gave a 10% discount.
We made it to Santa's Post Office before 5 PM to send postcards.
It was crowded. Since it was near closing time, we didn't have time to look around properly. We bought stamps and started writing furiously.
There were two mailboxes: the orange one for immediate delivery, the red one for next Christmas. I drew two postcards in advance and dropped one in each. The one sent immediately has arrived; the other I hope will bring me a little surprise and full memories around New Year's next year.
Finally, all three must-do tasks at Santa Claus Village were completed! Next was food time. We had targeted a tent restaurant next to the post office—the popular grilled salmon place Santa's Salmon Place, open from 10 AM to 6 PM. Since it was small, there was always a queue during meal times. When we arrived, there were already 6-7 people waiting. My friend didn't want to wait long and went to another restaurant. Actually, the menu was simple, so turnover was fast; we only waited about 10 minutes.
Inside, it was full of Chinese tourists. A few local guys were busy taking orders, grilling fish, and serving.
Simple wooden menu.
The main dish was only grilled salmon. The three of us ordered two portions of fish, one snack, one dessert, and drinks and beer. Simple but just right. The salmon was fresh and well-grilled, crispy on the outside. The salad served with it was refreshing. The dessert was surprisingly delicious.
After eating, though it was still early, the number of tourists had noticeably decreased. The snowman had no queue; we could hug and play freely. The outdoor Arctic Circle line was covered in snow, but the blue light strip above it was still visible.
We strolled around, planning to come back later to explore the village at night, so we returned to the room to rest.
Although Santa Claus Village had a commercial vibe resembling a 'Nordic Snow Town', we still did the essential activities: riding Santa's sleigh, chatting with Santa, sending ourselves a postcard for next Christmas, crossing the Arctic Circle, and trying the trendy food. But what I loved most was the empty village at night.
Later, my friend and I carried our cameras back to the village. The square was nearly empty. Colorful lights decorated the trees and buildings, with Christmas music playing softly. The snowflakes in the air made it incredibly dreamy.
The snow was falling heavily. To protect the camera, we took shelter under an eave, but it didn't let up, so we returned early.
There was also an ice world here.
On the way back, we kept an eye on the sky. However, there was too much light in the village, even the forest behind our cabin was lit with colored lights. Unless the aurora index was very high, it was hard to spot.
Breakfast was on the first floor of Santa's Office, still filled with Christmas spirit.
At a little past 8 AM, it was still dark when we bid farewell to Santa Claus Village.
Originally, we had enough time in the village. The next day, we had a train to Kemi at noon. But a few days before departure, we were informed that our booked icebreaker cruise might be cancelled, so we rescheduled it to the day before. That meant we had to leave for Kemi early the next morning, wasting the train tickets. Luckily, my friend Jiang communicated with the cruise company, and they arranged transportation from the village to Kemi. The only pity was not being able to explore the village in the morning; we took a bus to Kemi early.
Near the village, there was a trendy treehouse hotel, very Nordic.
Passing through Rovaniemi city center. This might be the former world's northernmost McDonald's.
It was cloudy and snowing heavily today. After about two hours, we arrived at the SnowCastle of Kemi.
Kemi, a city in northwestern Finland in Lapland Province, attracts tourists with its icebreaker adventure tours from December to April and the annual SnowCastle Festival. For me, experiencing the 'iced crawfish' on this Finland trip was also something I had long wished for.
Our icebreaker trip was scheduled for around 2 PM. We arrived at the SnowCastle around 11 AM. Part of the ice sculptures were inside this building. It was small, with a Chinese zodiac theme each year. But this rat looked strange.
The only interesting thing here was the ice slide. Though it's been decades since I last slid, it was quite thrilling. But be careful: though short, it's fast and uncontrollable. If two people are too close, they might collide.
Outside, there was what they called the SnowCastle, built with snow. In previous years, it was larger, with bars and hotels. This year, due to smaller size, it was mainly a display of small huts.
Before departure, I wanted to dine in the SnowCastle, but the website was inaccessible, and due to schedule changes, I gave up. But since we were here, I had a vodka in an ice glass at the ice bar.
A regular ice glass cost 14 euros.
This glass was more expensive, larger, and reportedly handmade. I chose a blue one to match the ice bar's vibe, with my favorite mint flavor. I heard this drink was a local limited edition. I loved the color.
Outside the castle were cute little trailers, probably for taking people onto the frozen lake to see the aurora at night.
There was also a trendy hotel in Kemi, the glass igloo with sea view. It was right next to the SnowCastle and served as a pick-up point for the icebreaker. Staying there for a night would be a nice experience. The container-like units were built along the Gulf of Bothnia, with 270-degree glass views, also good for aurora spotting. In summer, you could enjoy the great sea view and the magical midnight sun.
Kemi mascot.
Cute little ones in the souvenir shop.
The bus left at 1 PM for the port, arriving in about 20 minutes. We went to a small building to confirm the booking and received wristbands in different colors, indicating the time for the ice floating experience.
The Sampo icebreaker was built in 1960, retired in 1987, and purchased by Kemi city for commercial tourism cruises, becoming the world's first commercial icebreaker for tourism. We chose Sampo among several icebreakers for this reason.
Onboard, we chose seats freely. After departure, we could go on deck to watch the ice breaking.
Initially, the ice was mostly small chunks due to daily traffic and proximity to the port.
After some distance, we broke large, solid ice sheets. About an hour later, the ship reached the floating ice site.
Were there other ways to board besides the port? Yes, these people came by snowmobile.
The ice floating experience was scheduled based on wristband colors. We had to go to the changing room downstairs half an hour in advance. Since I was in the third group in the afternoon, I had time to explore downstairs, where there were crew quarters and the control room.
The first group of 'crawfish' got ready. The staff lowered an iron bridge, fenced off a safe area, pushed away some large ice floes, and then guided the 'crawfish' into the sea.
The weather wasn't good today; it was snowing heavily. In the end, only I decided to go for ice floating among our group of five. According to my wristband, I was in the 3:45 PM group. I went to the changing room half an hour early and queued. Based on height, we waited at different doors. Once inside, we removed our coats and shoes, and the staff brought waterproof suits. You step into the one-piece suit, and the staff help you put it on. Then you're ready to go.
I heard such a waterproof suit costs 60-70 thousand. It was very loose, especially the feet, making you walk like a duck.
At the entry point, you sit on the edge, and the staff push you in. As a non-swimmer, I could float steadily on the ice, which was delightful. To prevent water from entering through the neck, I maintained a semi-sitting, semi-lying posture.
Everyone asks if it's cold. Actually, it was fine. I had put hand warmers on my body and feet beforehand. The only cold part was my exposed face, slightly stung by the snow. My friend, who was filming, had frozen hands and urged me to come up. I hadn't had enough, but I signaled for the staff to pull me out. Being an iced crawfish in the Gulf of Bothnia felt great.
After getting off the ship, everyone received a certificate.
The return bus stopped at different points. Our hotel for the night, Scandic, was in Kemi city center, about a 15-minute walk from the train station. We chose it for convenience. But 'city center' here was different from our concept; it was a small city with few people. The hotel was a standard chain, with friendly front desk staff. We could borrow a microwave, and there was a public sauna on the first floor. The room was very basic.
Since there weren't many restaurants nearby, we bought dinner at the nearby supermarket. I loved the dairy products. The room had no mini-fridge, so the double-glazed window served as an alternative.
Another day of sleeping in. Today seemed to be the last chance for shopping. Fortunately, there was a supermarket nearby.
Good-value fresh orange juice.
Gum in various flavors.
Fazer chocolate had many varieties not available at the airport, like different bars. I preferred these two, especially the white chocolate flavor.
If you like soft candies, try these. The actual ones are much thinner than in the photo, but the soft candy inside doesn't stick to your teeth.
There was also a Japanese-style version, though not as big or regular as the Japanese one, it was reasonably priced.
If you like mint like me, try these.
Our flight to Helsinki was at 4 PM. Arriving an hour and a half early was still early. It was difficult to hail a taxi on the street, so we had the front desk book one. The ride to the airport was only about 10 minutes.
The airport was tiny, almost empty. At check-in, they even printed our boarding passes for the return flight the next day.
For the first time, we waited for security to open the door. The empty waiting lounge had a nice view.
The domestic flight plane was small.
We almost missed the heart in the forest.
Helsinki, Finland's capital and largest city, and largest port, has been repeatedly named one of the world's most livable cities.
The flight from Kemi to Helsinki took just under 2 hours, arriving around 6 PM. We planned to buy a 24-hour transport zone card at the R-kioski convenience store in the airport and take the bus, but everyone was tired and didn't want to navigate, so we took a taxi. For 5-6 people, a taxi is a good option, costing about 50-60 euros to the city center.
Tonight, we chose the Holiday Inn Helsinki City Centre next to the central train station. Convenient for trains and buses. The train station was to the left, and the bus stop was directly opposite. There were also supermarkets, shopping malls, and walking distance to major attractions.
At the hotel entrance, it was bustling with energy, with cheerful drumming from somewhere. It felt different from the Nordic coolness we had experienced elsewhere, like returning to a familiar world.
The Holiday Inn's style was minimalist and modern.
After a short rest, we went out to find food. The drumming we heard earlier was from this guy. I worried for his hands.
There were many dining options in the city center. First, we went to Zetor across the street.
According to reviews, Zetor is a Finnish countryside tractor-themed trendy restaurant. Reviews were mixed, but it was close. Inside, it was very dark. My friend said it felt like a bar. The staff said there were no tables and didn't indicate how long the wait would be. My easygoing friend suggested we just eat at the hotel. As a foodie, I wasn't about to give up easily, and I planned to take a walk to see the night view after dinner. So we split up.
I had a few backup options in mind, but some were cafés not suitable for dinner. Considering proximity and avoiding long waits, I searched and found a highly rated Spanish restaurant. Followed the navigation there.
The restaurant was small, but luckily there was one last table. I ordered their signature paella. The seasoning was good, not too spicy, with fresh seafood and plump shrimp. Portions were generous.
Special chicken soup, thick and hearty—different from what we expected but good.
Grilled tofu was a vegetarian dish, okay value.
My friend had a beer and wasn't satisfied, so she ordered a popular alcoholic mango drink, which was also good.
After a satisfying meal, we continued our night walk, following the navigation to Helsinki Cathedral.
On the way back, I confidently turned off the navigation and got lost. I really can't do without it. Thanks to that wrong turn, I saw the Hilton I had considered booking.
Finally, we reached the main street, recognized familiar buildings, and saw an empty outdoor ice skating rink.
Central railway station at night.
On our last day in Finland, we had an afternoon flight, so we only had a few hours in the morning. I planned to visit a few attractions with my parents, while my friend wanted to go shopping at the supposedly cheapest LV store. We split up again. Everything was within walking distance from the hotel.
Here's a front view of the hotel.
After scouting last night, I had a better sense of direction. First stop: Helsinki Cathedral. It's the most famous building and important landmark in Helsinki, located on Senate Square, built in 1852. Its white exterior earned it the nickname 'White Church'.
Entry is free. The interior, though not lavish, is simple and dignified.
In front of the cathedral is Senate Square. On the east and west sides are the Government Palace and the University of Helsinki, respectively. To the south are the Presidential Palace, Supreme Court, and City Hall.
In the square stands a bronze statue of Tsar Alexander II, erected in 1894, in honor of his granting Finland extensive autonomy.
Across the street from the cathedral is the Market Square, home to a year-round open-air market. From here, you can take a ferry to the Suomenlinna sea fortress.
At the market, I bought a handmade wooden mat.
Nearby is the Red Church—Uspenski Cathedral, the largest Orthodox cathedral in Scandinavia, also known as the 'Russian Church'.
Near the market is the statue of the Maiden of the Baltic Sea, also called Havis Amanda, a bronze maiden sculpture.
Next to the statue is a beautiful glass restaurant, KAPPELI, a century-old popular spot. Even on a rainy day, the warm light through the glass exudes warmth. Unfortunately, we didn't have time to stop for coffee or salmon soup. I'll save it for next time.
Across from the restaurant was LV, with a queue of many Chinese people.
While waiting for my friend, I browsed nearby shops. This was the only shopping time. STOCKMANN next door was a large department store.
Since my friend didn't find her desired bag, we quickly moved to the next attraction—the Rock Church.
It was about a 10-minute walk by navigation. The entrance was unremarkable, but inside was a different world.
As the name suggests, the church is built into rock. The surrounding stone walls are made of rubble excavated from the rock.
The dome is made of 22 kilometers of copper wire wound in a spiral, 24 meters in diameter, supported by 100 radial three-inch copper beams, and fitted with glass, providing excellent natural light. This unique church, completed in 1969, is one of Helsinki's most popular attractions.
The church is used for masses and concerts. Its organ is the largest in Scandinavia. Sitting in the church for a concert is a dream for many.
Before heading to the airport, we found a restaurant for our final meal in Finland. VLTAVA is in a standalone building opposite the train station. The first two floors are like a bar with simple meals, and the third floor is the dining area. A fun feature is a miniature train track in the open space.
We ordered the highly rated crispy beef brisket, salmon soup, Czech light garlic soup, and dessert. The salmon soup was the most popular, rich and flavorful. The crispy beef brisket was okay. The Czech garlic soup was palatable to me, but my friend found it odd. The dessert was average.
We retrieved our luggage from the hotel and went to the airport. For the first time, we experienced fully self-service. At the entrance, there were machines to print luggage tags (boarding passes might also be printed here, but we already had them). We attached the tags to our luggage handles and then used the self-check-in kiosks for baggage.
After checking in luggage, we did some airport shopping. There were shops and souvenir stores in both Schengen and non-Schengen areas. I found Helsinki Airport quite enjoyable for shopping. Some LUMENE skincare products were cheaper than at the supermarket. I bought a few star products. Though I haven't used them yet, the high natural ingredient content seemed good value.
At the iittala store, I got a discount for using Alipay, so I bought the Ultima Thule series glasses. Even drinking water feels exquisite.
Regarding Fazer chocolate, I mentioned earlier that the supermarket has more variety. The airport is good for stocking up. The small gift boxes have regular flavors, as well as liquor-filled and mint, etc. My favorite is this one—a refreshing alternative among European chocolates. Although not raw chocolate, it has a similar texture and is not too sweet, with crunchy almond bits.
The waiting area was full of Christmas spirit.
One last Fazer ice cream before departure.
We're back in Shanghai.
We thought this epidemic would end quickly, but it has now spread worldwide. I don't know when we'll be able to travel carefree again. At times like this, I realize that healthy family company is the most important. I also thank the heroes fighting on the front lines for our beautiful life. There's a Finnish folk song that says: 'If you find the mysterious Northern Lights, a happy life is not far away!' I hope this luck can be passed to all the kind people in the world!
