Turkey | Istanbul and the Nearest Ski Resort Kartepe
In January 2020, just before the lockdown of Wuhan, as a foreign trade 'dog' still attending an exhibition in India, I was terrified and immediately changed my ticket to flee back to China. At the beginning of 2021, with the BUFF of two vaccine doses, I resolutely led a team of engineers abroad again (proving that I was still too young...). In early 2023, after the pains of full reopening, the epidemic gradually stabilized in China, and international travel fully normalized once again. I write this travelogue to record my experiences and reflections during this special period.
Turkey's Istanbul New Airport has good infrastructure: dining, airport hotel, ATMs, currency exchange counters, car rental points, and a 24-hour COVID-19 testing point (at the far right of the arrivals level, 250 TL per test, results in about 3-4 hours).
However, the airport currently has no metro connection and is located far from the city center. So there are three ways to get to the city center.
Option 1: Airport bus. There are multiple bus lines from the airport underground level to the city center, costing about 20-40 TL per person, with departures every 30 minutes or so. You can check the schedule on the airport's official website. Board and pay by tapping a transportation card.
The card looks like above. You can buy and top it up with local cash at the vending machines.
This card can also be used for city trams, ferries, and is a must-have for travelers who like to walk a lot.
Option 2: Taxi. Probably the most popular choice, but note that yellow taxis are the cheapest. If the guide sees you are foreign, they might direct you to blue or black taxis. These are also licensed taxis, but their models and interiors are more upscale, so the price is higher. In that case, politely tell them you only need a regular yellow taxi. The fare from the airport to the city center is generally 200-300 TL.
Option 3: Car rental. Renting a car in Turkey is quite convenient, and some rental companies do not require a deposit. Just bring your driver's license and an international driver's permit.
I recommend renting a diesel version of DACIA (a local budget brand). It has strong power and ample space, and the daily price is very cheap. However, I strongly advise against driving in the city center, due to traffic jams and 50-degree slopes. On intercity highways, pay attention to the vehicle condition and road conditions; locals tend to drive aggressively, and the weather often changes—rain, snow, then clear skies (in some mountainous sections). Rental cars usually come with an built-in ETC device; it's best to confirm this when picking up the car.
The main attractions in Istanbul are concentrated in the old city, such as Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and the Topkapi Palace. Tram line 1 can reach them, and there is also a pier nearby for a cruise on the Bosphorus Strait. I stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn Sirkeci in the old city, which is extremely convenient and of good quality.
Across from this hotel is a Turkish restaurant run by a Chinese female boss, and the food is quite good. The dish in the picture that looks like scrambled eggs with tomatoes is called Menemen, a breakfast item, and one of the few dishes that suit Chinese palates.
At Hagia Sophia, you can buy a combined ticket that is said to grant access to many other museums, but unfortunately I didn't have time.
I stayed in a guesthouse in the old city one night before the pandemic; I don't know if it's still there now. Three years have brought many changes.
Night view of the overpass near the convention center.
The DoubleTree by Hilton in Moda area is also recommended. Behind this hotel is an old district where locals shop, accessible by a small tram. 300 meters in front of the hotel is a ferry terminal, and 200 meters to the right is a metro station. If you find the tourist area too commercialized, you can take a stroll here.
Kartepe is in Sapanca, Turkey, about 150 km from Istanbul.
If using public transport, you can first take a train from Istanbul to Izmit (be careful not to buy a ticket to Izmir).
The train condition is similar to China's bullet trains, with speeds of over 150 km/h, and the price is very cheap: about 30 TL from Istanbul to Izmit. The online booking system is quite poor, so I recommend buying tickets at the counter for the next day. The metro station towards Gebze also has a train station (shared station).
Of course, the most convenient way is to drive yourself. From the airport, take the O-7 highway and go straight.
At the foot of Kartepe, there are many resorts. This time we stayed at Elyapi.
During ski season, the parking lot is mostly full.
The resort offers buffet breakfast and dinner. Breakfast is basically a cheese feast. Hot dishes include soup, sausages, and fried eggs, etc. The breakfast here is really not to my taste.
Dinner consists of soup, appetizer, main course, and a dessert.
Scenery at the foot of the mountain on a sunny day.
Gear up and head up the mountain.
Arrive at the mountain ski resort; today's activity is snowmobiling.
The round trip lasts about one hour, with a convoy of five vehicles led by an instructor. Each vehicle carries two people besides the instructor.
After snowmobiling, enjoy some Turkish kebab.
Please forgive my tendency to gain weight easily; it's really hard here...
If you don't eat on the mountain, you can go down and have some drinks and lamb chops at a restaurant by Lake Sapanca (Turkey is quite secular; even Muslims can drink alcohol). The picture shows a traditional local alcoholic drink, which is not very strong.
In the evening, there might be a bonfire party by the lake, sometimes with singers performing.
Actually, this was my first trip abroad after the pandemic. Although I had already received two vaccine doses, I was still quite anxious internally, and I couldn't let Lao Zhou (the engineer wearing the blue hat) sense my fear. Of course, we also brought a bunch of equipment, like hundreds of masks, alcohol wipes, protective suits, a mini UV sterilizer, medicine, and an oximeter. The client also picked us up and dropped us off throughout (the rental car and train were used later when I gave up and went out on my own). That time, we stayed in Turkey for about one and a half months. Just as we were about to leave, Delta struck. All flights back to China were canceled, and the local reported case count suddenly skyrocketed to 50,000 per day. Lao Zhou and I were forced to move to the next country, which is a story for the next travelogue.
As everyone knows, Istanbul is a city that loves cats. At one hotel, I caught the cat manager inspecting.
Travelogue directory:
1. Preface
2. Istanbul New Airport
3. City attractions
4. How to get to Kartepe
5. Kartepe
6. Afterword
7. Extras
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