A Ten-Day Tour of Six Places in Japan
I hadn't originally planned to go to Japan, but due to limited time, it was the easiest to arrange. So I searched online for references and settled on this trip: June 12th Hakone, 13th/14th Kyoto, 15th Nara and Wakayama, 16th/17th Osaka, 18th Kobe, 19th/20th/21st Tokyo. I'd like to thank all the contributors on Ctrip.
Applying for a visa was cheaper on Ctrip (409 yuan), but it required booking flights and hotels through them. I checked and found their prices were similar to other sites, so no big loss. Before departure, I rented a portable Wi-Fi on Ctrip for 11 days at 146 yuan, which allowed several phones to connect simultaneously, making it very convenient—just don't get too far apart, as the signal drops after a few meters. I bought a 7-day JR Pass for two people, costing 2830 yuan (with a small discount). This was a point of contention for me; I was never sure if it was worth it, since our itinerary was relaxed and we weren't traveling every day, sticking mostly to central Japan. As it turned out, the pass wasn't much of a bargain (actual ticket price was 1600 per person). Shinkansen stations are often separate from other train companies' stations, and for shorter distances, it was more convenient to use other lines and transfer. Also, the pass couldn't be used for local city transport. To be safe, I used Google to check the routes for each leg in advance, and printed out a dozen pages containing route plans, hotel addresses, and attractions to visit. These pages were invaluable when asking for directions.
Among the places we visited, Hakone (Odakyu) had the most natural scenery. Hakone, not far southwest of Tokyo, is Japan's famous hot spring resort and retreat. Visiting Japan without soaking in hot springs feels like a missed opportunity—even in summer. The mountain train ride uphill offered delightful scenery. The train zigzagged back and forth, with the locomotive reversing direction at several sharp turns, giving a sense of twists and turns. It was drizzling in the mountains, with misty haze; through the rain-soaked, vivid flowers and leaves, one could see faint layers of distant mountains. The final section involved a cable car that resembled a tram, but instead of running on level ground, it climbed a steep slope, which I estimated to be 30 degrees. Strangely, the cable car only went up, not down; for descending, you had to walk. Lake Ashi is Hakone's landmark. According to introductions, it covers an area of 7 square kilometers and reaches a maximum depth of 45 meters. The lake water is clear and blue; on clear days, you can row a boat and see the snow-capped Mount Fuji year-round. The reflection of Mount Fuji in the light blue water is described as a "white fan hanging upside down in the eastern sky" (Baishu Daoxuan Donghaitian), because Fuji's shape resembles an inverted white fan. But today it was cloudy; even close mountains were hard to see, let alone distant Mount Fuji, and the lake water was grayish. Along the lakeside, various small boats were available for tourists, apparently operated privately, with prices ranging from 2,000 to 8,000 yen depending on the type of boat and duration/distance. We took an official large boat, costing 1,000 yen per person one way. After about 20 minutes, we arrived and then took a bus back to Gora Station. There were not only tourist buses and long-distance buses here but also a sightseeing cable car, but due to recent volcanic activity, the cable car was suspended, and Owakudani was also closed.
For hot springs, we also made a detour to Wakayama, one of Japan's top three hot spring destinations. However, we didn't find much appealing in this small city. Perhaps we didn't choose the right hotel; it didn't feel like a hot spring resort. Similarly, Kobe, a port city, was clean and quiet but had little to offer.
Naturally, Kyoto best embodies Japan's cultural spirit. Kinkaku-ji, Nijo Castle, and Kiyomizu-dera are called the three major landmarks of Kyoto. My favorite was Nijo Castle, built in 1603. It was the Kyoto residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu, surrounded by two moats, very impressive. The Ninomaru Palace, designated as a national treasure, has the most luxurious decoration from the Edo period. The "nightingale floors" in the corridors were alarm systems installed by the lord; many tourists walking on them really did squeak. The garden design was Chinese-style, reminiscent of gardens in Jiangnan.
Kinkaku-ji could only be viewed from outside; it took less than half an hour to walk around.
Kiyomizu-dera's pagoda had some character, but otherwise it was similar to typical Japanese temples. I didn't go inside, but the mountain road in front of the temple was lively, with rows of shops selling food and souvenirs stretching for hundreds of meters.
Gion's Hanamikoji Street is famous. The original houses and atmosphere are preserved on both sides, but it felt like bars and restaurants specifically for tourists, not very authentic.
Another place I admired was Ginkaku-ji. Its garden design was thoughtful, offering changing views at every step, very pleasant.
Arashiyama is a great place for autumn leaves, but it wasn't the season. There were many rickshaws there, looking light and beautiful.
Walking in the mountains offered good air and scenery. On the mountain, there was Okochi Sanso Villa worth visiting, built by a movie star in the 1950s-60s. It cleverly incorporated the natural terrain to create a garden, making it a great retreat.
Nara is very old. Its eastern part is mostly occupied by Nara Park, which is picturesque all year round, home to hundreds of wild sika deer. Vendors sold deer crackers along the roadside. The deer would chase people for food, eating and defecating at the same time, creating a smelly mess that was constantly cleaned up. This was the only place in Japan where we saw cleaners. Todai-ji was established in 728 by Emperor Shomu, who was a devout Buddhist. It is the head temple of the Kegon sect of Buddhism in Japan. The Great Buddha Hall is the largest wooden building in the world, enshrining a 16-meter-tall statue of Birushana Buddha (Vairocana), the largest bronze Buddha in the world. The current Great Buddha Hall was built in 1709; it is grand and worth seeing. Inside the hall, one of the pillars has a cavity at its base, leaving a small hole. A Japanese elderly man was guiding some foreigners through the hole: you needed to be slim and have some technique to squeeze through, though I wonder how it feels to get stuck in the middle. Kasuga Taisha was established in 710, over a thousand years ago, but its interior wasn't very interesting, just well preserved. Both sites are listed as World Cultural Heritage.
Osaka and Tokyo are somewhat similar, with more skyscrapers, convenient living and working, and well-developed transportation. However, Osaka felt more down-to-earth and is called the kitchen of Japan. Osaka Castle was built during the Sengoku period and served as a military tower and lookout. There's an observation platform for a panoramic view of Osaka, and inside, short historical videos played in Japanese, which we couldn't understand. There is a sightseeing boat with a dock next to the castle; a combo ticket for the boat and castle cost 1,200 yen, cheaper than buying separately. The boat went around the river and returned to the starting point, with two or three stops along the way. The boat was simple, with glass roof and sides, and fixed seats. Surprisingly, when the boat passed under a suspension bridge, the roof lowered, possibly for better view of the bridge.
In Tokyo, we visited Senso-ji. Both sides of the road leading to the temple were full of food stalls, and it was so crowded that it was hard to move. It was also difficult to take a photo with the Kaminarimon Gate. The temple seemed to have strong incense offerings.
According to introductions, part of the Imperial Palace was open to the public. After making a great effort to get there, only the Nijubashi Bridge greeted us; we saw nothing else. I'm not sure if I misunderstood or was misled. Next to our hotel was the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. On the 45th floor, there was a free observation hall, saving us the expense of going to Tokyo Tower. Inside the building, there was also a professional tourist information center with multilingual services and various brochures freely available.
Regarding food, Japanese cuisine is exquisite. Popular items like rice bowls, noodle soup, and sushi were all tasty. My husband especially liked tempura.
Our first proper meal in Japan was at a sushi restaurant run by an elderly couple in Hakone. The door was very small; taller people had to duck to enter. Inside was also small, with two tables on tatami. One table was occupied by two German girls, the other by a young Malaysian couple, and we three sat at the counter. Later, a French couple came in, filling the small room. The Malaysian young man was very lively and chatted with everyone; after he left, the room became quiet. The old man was busy cooking behind the counter, while the old lady took orders and collected money. The menu was simple, offering a few set meals. We ordered two sets, which included a bowl of seafood rice bowl and various sushi. The fish and shrimp weren't very fresh, but overall it was acceptable. The bill was 5,600 yen.
A conveyor belt sushi shop near Shinjuku Station in Tokyo was very cheap: 240 yen per plate. The rice balls were small, topped with a large slice of fish, quite good value. We ate there twice. Another advantage of this shop was that the cashier was a Chinese lady. When we first arrived in Tokyo, it was raining and very cold, so we had dinner at the hotel—pizza and pasta, expensive and not tasty, with poor service. We had planned to go to Tsukiji Market in Tokyo for seafood, but it was closed on Sunday, and on weekdays it only operated from 4:00 AM to 2:00 PM, so it was empty in the afternoon. As compensation, we bought a box of very fresh fish roe at a small shop across from the market for 900 yen. Kyoto Station has a "Ramen Koji" alley, designed in the style of machiya (traditional townhouses), gathering famous ramen shops from 7 places including Tokyo, Osaka, Sapporo, Kyoto, and Hakata. It was very crowded; we chose one without a queue, but it wasn't particularly delicious. Okonomiyaki had rich flavors, but both saltiness and sweetness were too strong, not very healthy. We tried it once near Dotonbori in Osaka.
On the upper floor of Daimaru Department Store in Osaka, there was a shop specializing in eel rice bowls, with several grades. The high-end ones were over 4,000 yen per serving, and the eel was indeed thicker, wider, and more tender than usual.
The famous Kani Doraku (crab restaurant) opened at 2:00 PM daily, and you had to take a number and wait an hour to get in. We gave up. In Kyoto, we tried Kyo-kaiseki once, which was a formal "big meal." Dishes were served one by one, each only a small bite. We ordered the mid-range option, around 4,800 yen. My husband and son, who have big appetites, complained it wasn't enough. Plus, a meal that takes an hour and a half isn't something tourists like us have time for. So we didn't dare try any other formal Japanese meals afterwards.
We had some snacks and desserts. We bought matcha ice cream a few times from street stalls; prices varied by location. The cheapest was in Kyoto at 300 yen, and the taste was similar. I quite like it. We had takoyaki (octopus balls) in Kyoto and Osaka. The one by the river in Dotonbori seemed famous, with a long queue, but it tasted the same as the one in Kyoto to me.
Yatsuhashi (八橋餅) is a genuine Kyoto specialty, but we tried it and didn't like it. Some other pastries were extremely sweet, even for a sweet tooth like me. Ningyo-yaki (doll-shaped cakes) were bought just for fun; their taste was similar to the sponge cakes sold on Chinese streets.
I saw recommendations for PABLO CHEESE CAKE. Since there was a shop a few dozen meters from our accommodation in Osaka, we queued and bought one; it was indeed delicious. The wheel cake (roll cake) in Kobe was okay, a bit over 100 for a small slice. Desserts in restaurants were a bit more expensive but more refined.
Regarding transportation: Kyoto mainly relies on city buses. The buses were very user-friendly: when stopping, they lowered the entrance side to make boarding easier. A one-day bus pass costs 500 yen; it's worth it if you take the bus three times. You buy the ticket or show the pass when getting off. In Osaka and Tokyo, rail transit is well-developed. You need to buy tickets before entering the station, which was a major challenge throughout the trip. The ticket machines only had a few price options, but you don't know the fare to your destination. The price display was only in Japanese, so we couldn't understand. Each time we had to ask a staff member or passenger to help us buy tickets. Therefore, buying a one-day pass or multi-day pass or a PASMO card was much more hassle-free. However, a one-day pass usually costs around 1,000 yen, while a single ride costs about 200 yen; if you don't ride much, it's not cost-effective. On our second day in Tokyo, we bought a Toei One-Day Pass (700 yen) to visit several places, but it was only valid for that company's subways and buses. Between cities, there are many types of trains; JR is one of them. Since we had a 7-day JR Pass, we naturally tried to take JR as much as possible. But some small stations don't have JR services, so we had to change lines. Japan's train system is really complex. On the same platform, there can be trains heading to different destinations. Sometimes, even for the same destination, there are local and express trains with different fares. After buying your ticket, you must board the correct train; you can't even board the wrong car, because some trains have front cars going to one place and rear cars to another. I really admire their scheduling. One trick is to watch the time: departure and arrival times are very punctual; board according to the time and you won't go wrong. Fortunately, most place names are written in Chinese characters (kanji). With a combination of guessing and asking, we never boarded the wrong train. Asking for directions was also a hurdle. Neither Chinese nor English worked well. Japanese people's English pronunciation is peculiar; sometimes, with my English level, I couldn't tell if they were speaking English or Japanese. The best method was to show them the written text; as long as the person wasn't far-sighted, it usually worked. Paper maps and Google Maps on our phones were very helpful. In Japan, areas near train stations are usually the most bustling parts of the city, with department stores, supermarkets, restaurant streets, and electronics malls all connected to the station. With multiple companies' vehicles converging, plus city subways, finding "your" platform was not easy. There were many travel choices: local trains are cheap, express trains are expensive, and JR might be the most expensive. In reality, the trains we took sometimes differed from the routes we had checked beforehand.
On this trip, we stayed in six cities. The first two accommodations were guesthouses (minshuku), and the latter were star-rated hotels. Comparatively, guesthouses felt more personal, while hotels were more standardized. Our first stay was at Gora Tea House (Gora Chashitsu Hotel). Although called a hotel, it was more like a guesthouse—few rooms, very quiet, with a beautiful environment. The room was quite large. The advantage of a Japanese-style room is the lack of furniture; a low table and four legless chairs could be moved aside, allowing three of us to sleep on tatami in any direction. The owner was very nice, busy single-handedly, only once did I see an assistant. Everything was kept clean. Breakfast was delicate: each person got a grilled fish, grilled sausage, tofu pudding (tofu nao), and several small dishes. Rice, drinks, tea, and coffee were self-serve. This was the only accommodation that included breakfast on our trip; others we skipped because adding breakfast was too expensive, so we can't compare.
The hot spring on the first floor was clean and comfortable, with complete toiletries. You wrote your name in the corresponding time slot on the reservation sheet, and that time was exclusively yours, each slot one hour. The hot spring was separated by gender. After entering, there was a changing room with shelves for clothes and a vanity table on one side, plus a baby cot. Through a glass door was the bathing area. The pool occupied one corner, about half the area, and the remaining L-shaped area had three shower nozzles and a faucet to adjust the water temperature and flow in the pool. The pool was not large, about two meters square. Another glass door led to a courtyard; opening the door allowed fresh air in, closing it kept warmth in. Both wet and dry areas were about 7-8 square meters, quite "luxurious" for one person. Because the hotel had few guests, enjoying the private hot spring was easy. The hotel was rather remote, on a mountain; to buy things or eat, you had to go down the mountain. The next day we wanted to go to Lake Ashi, and the owner proactively offered to drive us to the bus stop.
The owner of Kabuki Ann guesthouse in Kyoto was even more enthusiastic and lovely. He provided various snacks, fruits, and instant noodles in the room, and gave each of us a one-day bus pass every day. We stayed two nights, so he should have given us two days' worth of passes. But when he saw that we were going out that evening, he chased us to the bus stop and gave each of us an additional one. Before we left, he also gave us small gifts like folding fans and coin purses, which was heartwarming. His house was very large. The living room was at least 20-30 square meters, and the two bedrooms inside were each over 10 square meters, decorated very distinctively. There was also a gas stove and microwave for heating water or food. The downside was that the bathroom was small, showering was inconvenient, and the facilities were a bit old. The owner didn't provide breakfast, but cooperated with a nearby Western-style restaurant. If you showed the owner's note, you could have free breakfast there. Although the location was a bit off, transportation was convenient. Bus 100 went directly to Kyoto Station, and many attractions could be reached without transferring. There was also a direct bus to Arashiyama.
We went to Wakayama specifically for hot springs, but were disappointed. Maybe we chose a bad hotel. The best thing about Hotel Dormy Inn Premium Wakayama (Wakayama-ken Kinosato Dormy Inn Premium) was its location: less than a 10-minute walk from the train station. The hotel had a hot spring pool. On the women's side, there were two hot pools, one cold pool, and a sauna room. But because there were many people, it felt cramped. Both bathing and soaking were done in front of strangers, which was a bit awkward. The room was not large, and the bed wasn't comfortable. Hotel Vista Grande Osaka was right next to Dotonbori, making eating and shopping extremely convenient. The room was also not small, a standard star-rated hotel, offering free bagged tea and coffee. There was a 7-11 convenience store downstairs without going outside. However, it was a bit far from the subway station, making it tiring to drag luggage.
The Hotel Okura Kobe is a well-known chain in Japan, claiming five stars. The lobby was impressive, but the rooms were a bit dated. Still, the size and natural light were good, with a window overlooking the port. The location was not very convenient, but fortunately there was a free shuttle bus running every 20 minutes to and from the train station.
Similarly, the Hyatt Regency Tokyo Hotel, with its beautiful lobby, also had a free shuttle bus. The hotel was about a 10-minute walk from Shinjuku Station; we usually walked and only took the shuttle when we had lots of luggage. The room was over 20 square meters, which is rare in Japan, so the three of us squeezed into one room. Like Okura, Hyatt didn't offer free coffee, and its toiletries were the worst on our trip; I had to use my own bath gel and shampoo. I noticed that the higher-end the hotel, the fewer freebies they offer—they want guests to spend more!
When I mentioned going to Japan, some friends' eyes lit up, saying to buy lots of things. It seems everyone regards Japan as a shopping paradise. The news about Chinese people buying up Japanese toilet seats during the Spring Festival was something I read about, and I was eager to prepare. But once in Japan, I found the range of things to buy quite limited—maybe my purchasing power is the issue. Shopping venues in Japan come in several types: shopping streets mainly sell small items, low-end clothing, shoes, hats, drugstores, and food stalls. In Kyoto's Nishiki Market, I saw a small shop specializing in sewing supplies like needles and buttons.
Department stores are like multi-story department stores, selling higher-end goods. The ground floor usually has big brands, upper floors sell clothing, the top floor has restaurants, and the basement floor sells food. Some department stores have a miscellaneous goods section, selling everything from tools to kitchenware, from nail clippers to bicycles. Electronics malls have a much larger selection than Suning or Gome in China, including game software, office supplies, and even bathing products. My husband even bought a radio there. Camera shops are usually small but well-stocked, and often cheaper than in China; they usually have Chinese-speaking staff. I didn't see supermarkets like Walmart in Japan. Food is typically bought in department store basements or at convenience stores. I came with a shopping list, mainly for drugstore items. There are many drugstores in Osaka, each occupied by Chinese people. Groups of Chinese tourists are taken to drugstores before their flights, all leaving with full bags. As a result, items are often out of stock, and we couldn't find everything we needed in one store. However, each purchase had to reach a certain amount to qualify for tax-free, so making up the amount became an extra burden on every shopping trip. Drugstores offer tax-free directly, while department stores require you to pay tax first and then get a refund, which not only means an extra queue but also deducts nearly 2% handling fee, effectively reducing the tax saving to just over 6%. Department store tax refunds are also calculated separately for clothing, general merchandise, and food. We didn't know this at first, so our purchases of general merchandise and food didn't get the tax refund. On one occasion, we bought clothes in the evening and wanted to include them in the tax refund processing the next day, but it wasn't allowed. In Japan, formal clothing tends to be mostly synthetic fibers; cotton and linen fabrics are mostly in Japanese styles, loose and not very flattering, so I didn't find any satisfactory clothes. Sports and casual wear were relatively cheap, so I got some. The largest item I bought was a pressure cooker, ironically a German brand, just because the price was good. Additionally, my son and I each got a pair of glasses. Although they were still "made in China," they were cheaper than in China; the two pairs together cost 19,000 yen.
What impressed me most about Japan was the quality of the people and the comfortable environment. Japanese are known for their politeness, constantly bowing. Several times we shopped until closing time, and all the employees would stand at the counters, bowing to every customer passing by, murmuring something like "thank you for your patronage." It made us feel very uneasy, and we hurried out as if escaping. People queued orderly for transportation and shopping; no one pushed. When buying things, salesclerks were very attentive, constantly fetching items for you. When trying on shoes, they would kneel down to help you put them on, always smiling and speaking softly. Particularly, women spoke in a high-pitched, soft voice. The owners of the two guesthouses we stayed at were so polite it made us feel embarrassed. They never stood straight when talking to us. In Kyoto, the owner knelt beside the sofa while explaining things to us. Another aspect of their quality was their meticulousness: they wrapped purchases very carefully and escorted you to the cashier. If you bought a boxed meal, they would heat it up for you, pack it separately from other items, and include utensils. If you bought milk or chocolate or other heat-sensitive foods, they would put an ice pack in the bag.
However, the downside was slowness. Sometimes we were in a hurry, or the packaging was unnecessary—we threw it away upon returning to the hotel. On the bus, people would get up leisurely, taking their time to find exact change; no one rushed or got impatient. When asking for directions, if a person didn't know, you could just ask someone else. But while they were looking up information, it was awkward to walk away. It was frustrating. Japan's cleanliness is reassuring: no trash on the streets, no odor in restrooms. However, what drove us crazy was the scarcity of trash cans. We had to hold onto our waste, sometimes until we got back to the hotel. While queuing for the elevator at the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, someone dropped a tissue on the floor; a security guard picked it up and put it in his pocket. Speaking of restrooms, I remember the toilet seats. Public restrooms are generally equipped with toilets that have heated seats and bidet functions. With such publicity, how could we Chinese ignore them? Many public facilities are very user-friendly: there are small baby chairs mounted on the restroom walls, flush mechanisms that don't require pressing—some are automatic, others let you simply bring your hand near a sensor—and trash cans that open when you approach.
During our trip, it rained almost every day. Sometimes we borrowed umbrellas from the hotel, but in big cities, many places can be accessed underground. Stations have elevators up and down, buses and subways have air conditioning, and hotel air conditioners are very intelligent. We didn't encounter much inconvenience while out and about.
A few small observations: I had heard that on Japanese subways and trains, everyone reads quietly. From my observation, some people chat loudly, but not many. Fewer read books; most look at their phones or tablets. Also, many middle school students have crooked teeth, which surprised me. I thought with their high living standards, they would pay more attention to dental care. Japanese people like to carry umbrellas and wear hats; shops sell these items in great variety, and they are quite expensive. Not many people wear sunglasses.
