Biwa, Sake, Kyoto Beef! (A Trip to Kyoto: August 8–12, 2023)
It's amazing—both of my most recent trips happened right after recovering from COVID.
This time was even quicker: the departure day was less than two weeks after the first day of symptoms.
August 8–12: five full yet slightly intense days!
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Post-trip review, let's begin!
(By the way, after several long-haul reviews, I've gradually gained experience and now handle it with ease.)
Once again, it fell during the expensive summer holiday season, but luckily I snagged a business class ticket on Juneyao Air—not much pricier than economy… so I grabbed it without hesitation! Still, because I booked a few days late, the price went up…
Total spending was a bit higher than the maximum I'd estimated, but it was a great deal! And very comfortable: about ¥18,000 per person, covering all the food, accommodation, shopping, and activities I wanted.
Seems like for a relatively comfortable trip, this per-person budget is about right.
Wake-up time: Except for one lazy morning, I got up fairly early—around 7:30–8:30 local time in Japan.
Departure time: Varies with wake-up time, basically taking the hotel's shuttle bus at 10:10 or 10:40.
Number of attractions: Basically no reservations needed, so I went with the flow and covered a lot of ground each day.
P.S.: The last trains run very late—truly terrifying for corporate slaves (even though I don’t work in Japan). By the way, vacations after starting work really can't escape work… www
Kyoto, I'm back!
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Early morning, rushing to catch the flight. Left around 8:00, traffic was smooth. After exchanging foreign currency, passing security, picking up the wifi—all prep work done—I entered the lounge by 10:00.
Time to eat! The rice noodles this time were super delicious—I had two big bowls.
By boarding time, I was a fully fed onsen egg.
By the way, Juneyao's small aircraft have no entertainment system… boohoo.
So I just took a nap~
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The flight to Osaka was very short—about 1 hour 53 minutes each way. After flying a lot, I've noticed that on most regular routes, as long as there's no long delay, the estimated arrival time is pretty much the time you actually leave the airport.
Because of the pandemic, the airport had a customs health check (my own made-up name). Compared to the usual smooth flow, it took a bit more time. Made it through customs, stepped out of the familiar Kansai International Airport, and went to pick up luggage!
(Before leaving, I calculated: from leaving home that day to entering the hotel room, it was roughly from 8:00 AM to 6:30 PM. That's ten hours on the road.)
Mom said: the journey itself is part of the scenery~
By the way, HARUKA tickets are cheaper online. At the station, two round-trip tickets for us cost nearly 800 yen. Online they seem to be only 88 yen each.
Smoothly flew to Kyoto as planned!
Arrived at Kyoto Station—a major hub, very convenient for long-distance travel between cities. For short trips within Kyoto, the Karasuma and Tozai lines are more convenient. During cherry blossom season, I stayed near Kyoto Station at a民宿 and had to transfer one stop. This time I found it better to stay near Kiyomizudera or Shijo Kawaramachi. Of course, Arashiyama is also great.
No idea when I'll visit Kyoto next. If I go to Japan again, it'll be for a deep, niche tour. Hokkaido could also be an option.
Didn't explore Kyoto Station much—the itinerary was too packed.
Then I started looking for the hotel shuttle bus!
Must say, timing was spot on. Our train arrived at 17:34, and we walked out of the station around 17:45 (it's a big station). Couldn't find the shuttle schedule online earlier. When we reached the bus stop (where all hotel shuttles gather), we asked a driver from another hotel, who led us inside to find the Westin schedule.
The last bus was at 18:40, so we waited for the 18:10 one!
(And so I wandered around some shops—yay!)
A 6.2 km ride!
Another discovery this trip: I could pack less. I brought various medicines, mosquito repellent, band-aids, etc. Next time, streamline!
In the evening, I'd booked Yachiyo nearby for a tofu feast!
But Mom thought it was too bland, hahaha.
I ended up eating her portion too!
Unfortunately, that restaurant’s English was quite poor… I really need to brush up on my Japanese.
Back to the hotel, rested (or overhauled—fixing my own parts), and collapsed straight onto the bed.
8.9 City Tour!
Woke up naturally—as long as I made it to breakfast!
Recently, hotel trips mostly involve resting until 11–12 before heading out, then eating, going back to lie down or shower—successfully gaining weight!
Quiet little alleys with hardly anyone.
Not many people—probably because it was a weekday.
One of the purposes of this trip: to admire Japanese gardens. The spot where this Blue Bottle was located was quite nice.
Nice for sitting and taking photos.
After leisurely drinking, it was noon. A relaxing day.
Walked back to the hotel to catch the shuttle bus. Didn't take long—probably got on the 13:40 one?
Theme: city tour. Because (in my memory) the city center is a small area, I didn't make any detailed plans—just started wandering!
Women, always succumbing to drugstore cosmetics…
Strolled all the way… The weather cooperated—overcast, not too hot.
Finished brunch around 10-something AM, got hungry by 3 PM. Time for afternoon tea! (I love this kind of life.)
From the first day's experiment, I found that the gap between meals is about 5 hours—a very healthy lifestyle!
Traveling is indeed about enjoying the beautiful routine of starting at 9, ending at 7, with afternoon tea in between…
By the end of this trip, I even slimmed down my legs and overall!
Later, I originally wanted to go to Kiyomizudera, but the bus took forever to come, so I gave up and went to Nishiki Market to eat instead…
A full day of shopping!
On the way back, I really didn't want to take public transportation, so I checked the distance and decided to take a taxi!
Two people, 950 yen, for a bit over 2 km? Compared to public transit, it saved time and effort, and was almost the same price—quite a deal.
Back to soak in the onsen!
Time to sleep. Early rise tomorrow!
8.10 Arashiyama Trip!
Today I used a lot of transportation, so the theme was “Kyoto on Wheels” and “Info in the Ticket.”
Caught the 10:10 shuttle bus—let's go!
All the way to Kyoto Station~
This was~ a day originally planned for the Hozugawa River ride.
Throughout the journey, there were announcements, especially at Saga-Arashiyama and Umahori stations, with Chinese announcements like “The little train blah blah,” which are the start and end points of the Sagano Romantic Train.
Arrived at Hozugawa, but the river ride was closed due to strong winds~
The Romantic Train runs once an hour. We arrived around 12:30, but tickets for 12:30 were sold out (the train was delayed). Bought tickets for 13:30.
Then wandered around the station and bought some souvenirs. A woman's shopping urge…
Headed to Arashiyama shopping street! It was so hot today.
Along the way, I looked for “Owl Forest,” but the shop next door told us it had already closed.
Interestingly, we came via JR, and the return trip involved two train transfers, yet the total cost was 420 yen per person each way…
By the second day, I could navigate Kyoto's railways. Indeed, practice is the only criterion for truth…
Near Gion, there are many narrow alleys. Walking through them feels magical. Many low gateways—民宿, restaurants—everywhere.
(Soba noodles filled my stomach—not really hungry.)
Ordered some sake too—still not really used to it…
(Also very photogenic, lol)
Before coming to Japan, I tried an omakase in Gubei, and I was deeply impressed by the yuzu seasoning (delicious!). Then I ate it in Japan too~
It was still quite good—second only to the Kumano beef I had in Shirahama last time.
After that came grilled salmon and other dishes, but by then I was just chewing like a candle…
This meal was booked domestically. I'd long heard Kyoto restaurants are hard to reserve—sure enough, I couldn't get any Michelin-starred places. Eventually found a proxy booking for this restaurant on Hornet's Home… The proxy fee was okay, 50 per person. For Michelin, I found one on Baobao Market, proxy fee 200 per person…
No admission fee here, and it's lit up at night, perfect for a post-dinner stroll.
This area has many narrow alleys. While looking for the entrance to Yasaka Shrine, we passed a very quiet stretch of path, almost deserted. One turn, and it was a different scene—still many tourists at night.
In official terms: the street walls are low, offering better privacy (not really).
This happy day ended with another round of drugstore shopping~
(By the way, the taxi fare back to the hotel was exactly the same as before—hahahaha)
Another delightful day of onsen soaking~
8.11 Early Rise for Ruriko-in!
The advantage of staying several days at the same hotel: by the third day, I knew exactly where the food was, my taste preferences, and even my appetite could be estimated.
The picture above shows the amount for one-and-a-half stomachs. After eating two-thirds of it, I was pretty full~
Today, I ate quickly because I was in a hurry. Otherwise, it would have been a perfect brunch.
(Noticed: I really love drinking beverages.)
Walked down a short mountain path, winding upward, and arrived.
Compared to the more urban downtown area, this place still has a Japanese touch of care—staff handed out cold towels to people waiting in line. We queued about 20 minutes, holding umbrellas and cooling ourselves with towels—not too hot.
The gate opened around 10 AM. An elderly monk (perhaps the head priest?) came out to introduce the place. Being a Japanese language novice, I could only catch some instructions; the rest I judged from his tone—seemed to be describing Ruriko-in’s history and beautiful scenery… (Originally an imperial temple?)
There's also a collaboration with a nearby art museum; after the visit, you can check it out.
Note: the lower half of this photo is just a shiny desktop (lol)
Later went to Sanzen-in. Today's theme: “Suburbs / Ancient Temples / Gardens / Coolness.” Sanzen-in is small, quickly explored.
(Left Sanzen-in at 12 PM!)
Afternoon plan: a 30-minute ride to the Lake Biwa area. I'd originally planned lunch near Sanzen-in, but there was a queue or something, so I missed the local vegetable dishes. But! I got to eat the beef shown below!
Guess what this is ↓
Took the shuttle bus uphill, bought the ropeway tickets at 13:05 (two tickets cost over 7,000 yen—a bit pricey). Typically, you buy a combo ticket for both large and small ropeways. The small ropeway runs very close to the ground—about 1–2 meters? I call it the “three-foot-high little fo car” lol.
First, had lunch on the mountain. Though UV was strong up there, the wind was strong and it was super cool lol.
Blue skies and white clouds over Shiga!
There were lots of recreational facilities on the mountain, like the balance beams at Oriental Land.
The view was beautiful.
I'd heard you could photograph the torii gate by the shore, but it was fenced off, and an observation deck was built across the road.
Got off and walked straight along Ninen-zaka and Sannen-zaka—
In a flash, spent some shopping money, ate and drank, then headed to Nijo Castle.
The Kameoka Fireworks Festival draws huge crowds, so Kameoka Station stopped selling tickets after 4 PM. Starting from Nijo Castle, we had to buy round-trip tickets at the departure station.
Now, for the fireworks festival.
Compared to other famous ones, Kameoka's wasn't huge, but it was my first time attending one lol.
We followed the crowd into a narrow farm path around 19:30. That path was miserable—more on that later.
The fireworks started around 19:45.
When leaving, roads were closed, so we walked back through the fields. The detour was very long—we walked until we were numb.
Then, in the pitch dark, I fell into a field drainage ditch…
Though my luggage was already minimal, carrying a few shopping bags, tired, wearing sandals…
I urge everyone: travel light!
Also, the opposite shore is actually an excellent viewing spot. Like in many anime or drama scenes—almost no one there, families riding bicycles with picnic blankets, sitting together comfortably watching the entire fireworks display.
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With half-dry, half-wet clothes (later I found a restroom to disinfect and dry them—they eventually dried), I rushed back to Nijo Castle and bought fried chicken!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So delicious—waaah.
I didn't have time for a bath that night, but the room was comfortable enough. The next day, because I'd bought early tickets, I had to get up early—next time I'll plan better!
By the way, I managed to pack everything I bought into the suitcase!
I'm so happy as an organizing enthusiast—boohoo.
8.12 Last Day!
This turned out to be the busiest day—all shopping.
Women, truly never tire ()
After eating and drinking, headed to Kyoto Station!
(Finally boarded the 11:00 HARUKA at 10:58)
I'm a pro at cutting it close, lol.
After getting off, stored luggage at the airport (storage near the security entrance on 4F?). A few hundred yen—I forget—cheaper than the outlet.
All along, there were shopping malls with covered walkways or shade—no worries about sun.
This outlet didn't have many big brands; after browsing a few big-name stores, I didn't find any clothes I liked (one Burberry didn't fit my expanded waistline). But browsing Japanese domestic brands was good—Mom and I both found clothes we liked.
Every time after recovering from COVID, my appetite and shopping urge are strong—that's probably the main reason for arranging this outlet trip…
From 8 AM to nearly 6 PM—super strong me.
Going there cost 340 yen—why was the return 370?
A woman's shopping desire seems not easily satisfied (I wanted to buy a bag but didn't end up getting one). After dropping Mom at the airport lounge, I started sweeping the duty-free shops…
But because we arrived at the airport too late, many shops were… actually closed.
Though even if they were open, there might not have been much stock…
Boarded. A 787 plane—very summery feel.
Arrived home around 12:30 AM, and I slept a bit on the car ride.
Finally, an unforgettable ending~
A journey that fulfilled a new wish~
