Summer 2015: A Romantic Journey through Hokkaido (Sapporo, Furano, Biei, Lake Akan, Shiretoko, Kyoto, Osaka – 11-Day Tour)

📍 Kyoto · 👁 269 reads

Due to time constraints, the earlier travelogue is no longer viewable. Re-edited and re-uploaded -- 2024-8-20

Before this trip to Hokkaido, Japan, I read quite a few travel guides and journals from fellow travelers online. (Smile) Now that I'm back, I've put my own travel experiences into this journal to share with everyone.

Last Christmas, I went with four colleagues to Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto on Honshu, but the trip was too short and left us wanting more. This summer, my sister-in-law Sophia, who has been living in the US in recent years and came back for the summer holiday, and I hit it off and decided to revisit Japan. July is the best season to see lavender in Hokkaido, then head to eastern Hokkaido to visit those stunningly beautiful spots featured in the movie "If You Are the One," and afterwards go to Kyoto, the most Japanese of cities. OK, everything started to fall into place. The whole trip lasted 11 days, with a total spend of 44,400 CNY for two people: 12,600 CNY for flights, 20,100 CNY for hotels, and 11,700 CNY for transport, meals, entrance fees, and miscellaneous expenses (including 1,300 CNY for luggage).

1. Itinerary (July 16–26)

D1 Chengdu – Osaka Spring Airlines (actually became Air China Chengdu – Beijing) Stay at Langham Place Beijing Airport Hotel (originally booked Nikko Kansai Airport Hotel)

D2 Osaka – Sapporo Peach Aviation (actually became Air China Beijing – Sapporo) Sapporo night views Stay at Sapporo Grand Hotel

D3 Sapporo – Furano New Furano Prince Hotel, Farm Tomita, Saika no Sato, evening Furano fireworks Stay at Petit Hotel Melon Furano

D4 Furano – Biei Blue Pond, Patchwork Road, Shikisai-no-Oka, evening fireworks at Hinode Park, Stay at Petit Hotel Melon Furano

D5 Furano – Kushiro – Lake Akan Lake Akan cruise, Shisai-no-ie izakaya, Natsuki lantern floating Stay at Tsuruga Bessou Hina no Za Lake Akan

D6 Lake Akan – Kushiro – Tōro – Shari/Abashiri – Shiretoko Kushiro Marshland Norokko Train, Lake Mashū, Iōzan, Kiyomizu Lily Park Stay at Shiretoko Kitakobushi Hotel

D7 Shiretoko Shiretoko Five Lakes walk, Shiretoko Peninsula boat cruise, Oronko Rock Stay at Shiretoko Kitakobushi Hotel

D8 Shiretoko – Abashiri – Sapporo Oshinkoshin Falls, Road to the Sky, Koshimizu Primeval Garden, Kitahama Station, Sapporo TV Tower, Sapporo Ramen Republic Stay at Ichiku Chitose Hotel Sapporo

D9 Sapporo – Osaka – Kyoto Kyoto Gion, Yasaka Shrine, Maruyama Park, Ishibei-koji, Hanami-koji Stay at Gion Maifukan

D10 Kyoto – Osaka Kiyomizu-dera, Osaka Shinsaibashi, Nanba Stay at Swissôtel Nankai Osaka

D11 Osaka – Chengdu Osaka Sky Outlet, Kansai Airport

2. Pre-trip Preparations

1) Visa

The documents for a Japan independent traveler visa are relatively simple; the only thing is you need to submit them through a travel agency. I used China Comfort Travel, costing 700 CNY. I submitted some personal documents, filled in a form, provided a certificate of employment, copies of property and car ownership certificates, round-trip flight itinerary, and a 50,000 CNY bank deposit certificate. It took about a week to get the visa, allowing a stay of up to 15 days in Japan.

2) Flight Booking

To save time, we chose flights from Chengdu that fly directly to Japan, then transferred to New Chitose Airport in Sapporo, Hokkaido. Direct flights from Chengdu include ANA and Spring Airlines, but since our itinerary didn't include Tokyo, we booked round-trip tickets between Chengdu and Osaka on Spring Airlines's website for July 16–26. However, as China's first budget airline, it's indeed quite "economical" – no complimentary drinks or meals on board, and most importantly, luggage allowance is only 15 kg, which is the total weight for everything. (Surprised) To avoid overly cramped seats, we paid extra to select two aisle seats in the third row, and also increased baggage allowance to 20 kg per person. (In reality, this still wasn't enough; we wanted to purchase more allowance later but were told by Spring Airlines that you can only add once. At Osaka Airport, we were 6 kg over, and had to pay an excess baggage fee of 21,600 JPY – it honestly felt like a rip-off (Annoyed)). The total for the two Spring Airlines tickets was 8,000 CNY. Then we booked Peach Aviation flights from Osaka to Sapporo at 10:30 AM on July 17 through Ctrip, costing 1,950 CNY for two (later due to weather, we didn't take this flight and got refunds). And on Ctrip, we booked Jetstar Airways flights from Sapporo to Osaka at 8:25 AM on July 24, priced at 1,096 CNY for two.

3) Hotel Reservations:

Considering flexibility, we booked all our rooms on Booking.com. The hardest part was booking two nights in Furano; we booked two months ahead but still found it extremely hard to get a room. July is the famous lavender season in Hokkaido, and there's also the annual fireworks display, which happened to fall on the weekend we were arriving. Many minshuku (guesthouses) had been fully booked as early as 3 to 4 months before, and they generally require bookings via email in English. We sent emails to many minshuku but were all told there were no vacancies. Finally, on Booking.com, we found Petit Hotel Melon Hotel, which is also a minshuku, though its location is a bit hard to find. We wanted to keep refreshing before departure in case new rooms opened up, but we never managed to switch and ended up staying at Petit. The other hotel bookings were smoother, mostly chosen based on convenience of transport and reviews from fellow travelers. The proof is in the pudding: all our hotel choices were quite successful, with good transport links and comfortable accommodations. (Smile)

4) Transport Strategy:

Transport in Hokkaido is relatively underdeveloped compared to major cities on Honshu, and since Japan drives on the left, you need an international driver's license to self-drive. JR trains and local buses, if missed, can sometimes mean waiting several hours. So we did quite a lot of research beforehand, reading travel notes from many others who had taken this route. In Japan, many public transport schedules are accurate to the minute and generally punctual, which greatly helped us plan our time. Reference websites: Due to travelogue restrictions, please message me privately for website addresses.

1) JR Hokkaido Railway Pass –

2) Eastern Hokkaido Twinkle Bus – must be purchased at least 3 days in advance; during validity, you can use JR Pass to take unreserved or reserved seats on the Norokko train.

3) Akan Bus – has sightseeing routes and regular routes, somewhat expensive but almost unavoidable when touring eastern Hokkaido (unless self-driving).

Sapporo Sightseeing Official Website – Furano – Lake Akan – Shiretoko –

5) Currency:

Japanese Yen, exchange rate around 1 CNY = 19.8 JPY in July. We exchanged 200,000 JPY, brought four credit cards, and two debit cards (Chengdu Bank and Standard Chartered) that allow overseas withdrawals with no handling fee. It turned out that the minshuku we stayed at in Hokkaido did not accept credit cards, and many restaurants also didn't. In Sapporo, we saw very few places with UnionPay logos where you could withdraw cash (we didn't find any). So we used cards whenever possible, but kept enough cash on hand. Other preparations: comfortable, easy-on-and-off shoes (since you often need to remove shoes at certain places), basic meds, a small notebook – since English proficiency is not high in Japan, sometimes it's useful to write in Chinese characters when asking for directions, umbrella, sunscreen (though Hokkaido is cool, UV rays are still strong), iPad (for looking up information sometimes), camera, mobile phone with international long-distance and roaming activated, pocket WiFi rented on Ctrip (pickup and return at the airport, 20 CNY/day).

1. A Trip That Started with Many Twists and Turns

D1 Chengdu – Beijing Stay at Langham Place Beijing Airport Hotel 1,150 CNY

Our Spring Airlines flight from Chengdu to Osaka at 9 PM on July 16 was, at around noon that day, informed that due to weather in Osaka, it would be delayed by ten hours! (Bad luck) Oh my god – I've seen delays, but a 10-hour delay? That meant our connecting flight from Osaka to Sapporo was also ruined, and our plans were thrown into disarray. (Confused)

Under the circumstances, getting our itinerary back on track was the priority. I immediately decided to cancel the Spring Airlines Chengdu–Osaka flight. We found a flight from Beijing at 9:15 PM that stopped in Seoul en route to Sapporo, so on Ctrip we booked an afternoon Air China flight from Chengdu to Beijing at 4 PM (1,490 CNY per person) and the 9:15 PM Korean Air flight from Beijing via Seoul to Sapporo (2,256 CNY per person). We packed in a rush and headed to Chengdu Shuangliu Airport at 2 PM. Fortunately, no mistakes were made; we first went to Terminal 2 to pick up our rented pocket WiFi, then rushed to Terminal 1 to check in. Chengdu weather was fine, but the flight was still delayed. Boarding started at 5 PM, which made the connection timing very tight. Annoyingly, takeoff didn't happen until 6:30 PM, and I was already feeling uneasy that we'd miss the next flight. After arriving at Beijing Capital Airport Terminal 3, we had to wait for luggage and then take a shuttle to Terminal 2, but by the time we got there it was 9:30 PM. All the negotiation lines I had rehearsed in my head about getting new boarding passes proved useless, because the counters were already empty and we had missed the Seoul connection. We had to go back to Terminal 3 and get a flight delay certificate from Air China. They said we could be rebooked on the Korean Air flight via Seoul to Sapporo the next evening, but that would waste too much time. We found a direct flight from Beijing to Sapporo at noon on the 17th, so we decided to stay overnight in Beijing and take that direct Air China flight the next day. I immediately booked that night's stay at Langham Place Beijing Airport Hotel through Ctrip – close to the airport with a free shuttle. After arriving at the hotel, I began negotiating as a Ctrip Diamond VIP. The final result was: we changed the Korean Air Beijing–Seoul–Sapporo flight to Air China Beijing–Sapporo direct free of charge; got a full refund for the Osaka–Sapporo flight (later learned that flight was cancelled due to weather); and after communicating with Booking.com, the July 16 night at Hotel Nikko Kansai Airport was not charged. Here I have to thank Ctrip – as a big company, it was very assertive in dealing with the airlines. Though its price advantage isn't as obvious sometimes, it really came through when it mattered. A satisfying night's sleep followed.

2. The Real Journey Begins

D2 Beijing – Sapporo Sapporo night tour Stay at Sapporo Grand Hotel (46,132 JPY)

We slept in, packed, and took the Langham Hotel airport bus to the grand Terminal 2 at Capital Airport. After checking in, we had a leisurely Pizza Hut brunch. At 12:25 PM, the flight took off on time, and more than four hours later, we arrived at New Chitose Airport near Sapporo, Hokkaido.

The flight we managed to get after all those twists and turns (Sweating)

The famous Royce' chocolate brand – a sign that we had arrived!

The airport's clean and orderly atmosphere goes without saying. After picking up our luggage, we followed the exit signs to the Foreign Tourist Information Center on B1. Here we wanted to sort out our Hokkaido transport. First, we took a queue number from the self-service machine, then waited in line to buy tickets. While waiting, you can pick up pamphlets like Hokkaido transport timetables; there are Chinese versions. After waiting almost an hour, it was our turn (many visitors design their itineraries on the spot, so it's slow). Since we had done our homework, we had downloaded and filled out the application forms in advance (forms were also available there) and had listed all our planned trains and times on a piece of paper. After some communication with the staff, they started issuing our tickets. There were Chinese-speaking staff, but with the long queues, if you got someone who didn't speak Chinese, we communicated in English. The staff were very efficient, even jogging to make copies or print things, which showed their impressive dedication. Here we bought: Hokkaido JR Pass 7-day, 24,000 JPY; Twinkle Bus: July 21 – Eastern Hokkaido Norokko & Shiretoko, 6,000 JPY; July 23 – Eastern Hokkaido Shiretoko Akan, 3,000 JPY. We didn't buy Akan Bus tickets because it was near their closing time at 7 PM and many people were still queuing; the staff suggested we buy them at the Sapporo JR Service Center instead. For any tickets that allow free reserved seats, definitely reserve them, because dragging a suitcase around without a seat for long is no fun.

The Hokkaido JR 7-Day Pass

The Eastern Hokkaido Norokko & Shiretoko Twinkle Bus ticket

The Eastern Hokkaido Shiretoko Akan Twinkle Bus ticket

With tickets mostly sorted, we boarded the rapid train from New Chitose to Sapporo. For reserved seats, you get a seat reservation ticket, and JR staff come by to check it during the journey. You can put the ticket in a small pocket on the back of the seat in front of you and rest easy. Isn't that a thoughtful design?

The little pocket on the train seat where you can place your seat ticket

After about 40 minutes of swift, quiet travel, we arrived at JR Sapporo Station. Following signs that were half in Chinese, we exited the station. It was already dark, and we could see the Sapporo TV Tower in the distance, a landmark of the city. According to our original plan, we had an afternoon trip to Otaru today, but due to the flight issues, we had to cancel it. We walked about ten minutes from JR Sapporo Station, passing a Starbucks, and reached our booked hotel: Sapporo Grand Hotel. Actually, the guide said you don't even need to leave the station; underground passages lead directly to the hotel lobby, so the location is great. But coming to a new city, strolling along the streets and seeing the cityscape was also nice. After a quick hotel check-in, the bellboy delivered our luggage to our room. We freshened up a bit and then headed out for night views and dinner.

We walked toward Sapporo TV Tower and arrived at Odori Park, where a group of young people was doing an evening performance, with the audience sitting on the ground and cheering enthusiastically. At 9:30 PM, we arrived at Sapporo Classic Beer Garden to try some famous Sapporo beer, but were told it was too late and they were already closed. Finally, we went to the charcoal-grill izakaya at the base of the TV tower and ordered grilled saury, assorted skewers, ramen, edamame, and homemade yogurt with ice for dinner. It tasted great, 3,800 JPY. Due to time constraints, we didn't go up the tower and decided to save it for when we return from Shiretoko.

Sapporo TV Tower at night

The beer square under Sapporo TV Tower

Performers singing in Odori Park

Tonight's dinner spot – the izakaya beneath the TV tower

Our dinner at the charcoal-grill izakaya

D3 Sapporo – Furano New Furano Prince Hotel, Farm Tomita, Saika no Sato, evening Furano fireworks Stay at Petit Hotel Melon Furano (40,000 JPY)

We got up early to catch the 7:55 AM Lavender Express No.1 to Furano. The Sapporo Grand Hotel offers both Japanese and Western breakfasts, with a rich variety. After breakfast, it took us less than ten minutes through the underground passages to reach JR Sapporo Station. Following the electronic displays, we found the platform and saw the legendary, super-adorable colorful train. (Love) We were in the reserved car; this was the earliest train, so it was fairly empty and comfortable, with the usual quiet atmosphere. At 9:52 AM, the train arrived at Furano Station.

Breakfast at Sapporo Grand Hotel

Signage inside JR Sapporo Station

Boarding area, with separate lines for reserved and non-reserved seats

The Furano Lavender Express train – super adorable

To the right of Furano Station is an information center with staff who speak Chinese and English and can give sightseeing tips. We bought Furano Kururu Bus passes there for 1,200 JPY per person, allowing unlimited rides on Furano sightseeing buses for 2 days. The back of the ticket has timetables for each attraction. We decided based on the schedules to first go to the hotel and drop off our luggage, then take a bus from the hotel entrance to New Furano Prince Hotel, and at 2:47 PM take the A route bus to JR Furano Station to connect with the 3:30 PM B route to Farm Tomita and Saika no Sato.

Today was our first time taking a city bus. When boarding, take a numbered ticket; when you're about to get off, press the button by the window and the driver will stop at the next stop, then you pay the fare into the box. Don't worry about large bills; the payment machine can give change. We noticed every local getting off politely said something like "thank you for your hard work" to the driver. We hurriedly boarded, but after only one or two stops we got off at Furano Prince Hotel. Only then did we realize we got off too early – it was not New Furano Prince Hotel. At the Prince Hotel lobby, the friendly staff helped us book a taxi, and in less than five minutes we were at New Furano Prince Hotel. This hotel is set in the forest with superb natural surroundings. It would have been nice to have booked a room here in advance, given the convenient transport. The Kururu Bus stop is right at the hotel entrance, very handy. We crossed the lobby, turned right, and arrived at the "Garden of Wind." Entrance fee: 500 JPY. True to its name, the Garden of Wind is a sea of flowers, with over 20,000 plants of more than 300 varieties. It's a pastoral, healing landscape with a touch of countryside charm. We took photos and indulged ourselves in the wonder.

Furano Kururu Bus pass

The "Garden of Wind" at New Furano Prince Hotel

After leaving the Garden of Wind, we headed to the "Ningle Terrace," where 15 small wooden cabins are connected by boardwalks in the forest. Inside, they sell wooden toys, candle holders, paper items – all sorts of unique and beautifully crafted hand-made goods. Considering luggage limitations, we bought a small paper night light and some chopstick rests. Later, back home, I realized the night light was 110V, which I hadn't considered at the time. But the little items are indeed exquisite.

The Ningle Terrace

Around noon, we went to the famous "Mori no Tokei" (Forest Clock) café for lunch. This forest-set café is well-known for its beautiful environment and the experience of grinding your own coffee beans. To do the self-grinding, you need to sit at the counter. We waited a little while for counter seats, then sat down and began hand-grinding. After grinding, the elderly gentleman unhurriedly brewed coffee for each guest. Listening to the soothing background music, sipping hand-ground coffee, and quietly enjoying this leisurely moment – who says traveling always has to be a frantic rush? Sometimes we can slow down and savor a different travel mood.

Mori no Tokei café – hidden in the forest

Tasting hand-ground coffee

After finishing our lunch and coffee at Mori no Tokei, we took the Kururu Bus route A from outside New Furano Prince Hotel to JR Furano Station, then switched to route B and got off at the Lavender Field stop – we had arrived at Farm Tomita. Farm Tomita is in Nakafurano, and we could see the iconic hot-air balloon from a distance. A vast swath of lavender fields met our eyes, so beautiful it left us speechless. Mid-July is the most beautiful season for lavender in Furano, Hokkaido, and there were many visitors. Although the sky was a bit overcast, the sheer beauty of the blooms was not diminished at all. Farm Tomita has not only lavender but also countless other gorgeous flowers in every color – a true floral paradise. (Charming) Of course, a visit to Farm Tomita wouldn't be complete without trying its famous soft-serve ice cream. We got the two-tone melon flavor, 320 JPY each. Hokkaido's agriculture and dairy are well developed, so the milk flavor is excellent, and the ice cream is naturally very pure.

That patch of purple! Sob-worthy beautiful! (Charming)

Melon double-tone soft-serve ice cream

After resting at Farm Tomita, we decided to head to "Saika no Sato," about 3 km away. But because of the slopes and the hot sun, walking there would be tough, so we took a taxi. We asked a uniformed staff member at Farm Tomita to call us a cab, and three minutes later we were on our way. The ride took about 10 minutes, and wow, another vast lavender field appeared – absolutely stunning! There were noticeably fewer visitors here than at Farm Tomita, and we excitedly took photos and immersed ourselves in the sea of flowers. Saika no Sato sits on higher ground, offering a distant view of the whole Furano city and the Tokachi mountain range. (Love)

In our excitement, when we were ready to leave, we realized the staff had already gone off duty and we had missed all downhill transport. Overwhelmed by the flower fields, we hadn't remembered the way we came. Luckily, we encountered a Japanese family of three driving on their own. We asked them for directions in English, but they clearly didn't understand. So we wrote the characters for "fireworks" that we wanted to see, and with some body language, they finally understood and very kindly drove us to that evening's fireworks venue. We were so grateful!

From Saika no Sato, distant view of the Tokachi mountain range

The annual Furano Lavender Fireworks Festival takes place every summer. The week we were there happened to be the one, which likely explains why accommodation in Furano on July 18–20 was so tight. Before the show, some young dancers warmed up the crowd, and the fireworks started right at 8 PM. Just then, the weather turned on us – it started to rain, and the rain got heavier and heavier. But it didn't dampen the audience's enthusiasm at all; everyone watched the hour-long show in the pouring rain. Our umbrellas couldn't handle the downpour, so after the show ended, we took a taxi back to the hotel in the torrential rain. (A fairly long ride, costing 3,380 JPY)

The main venue of the Furano Fireworks Festival

Pre-show performance at the fireworks festival

Although Petit Hotel Melon Furano is a minshuku, it was exceptionally clean. We stayed here for two nights and, through the shared bathrooms, got to know two other guests from Chongqing and Tianjin. We exchanged travel tips and stories. (Smile) (Sleep) (Sleep)

Our accommodation: Petit Hotel Melon Furano

D4 Furano – Biei Blue Pond, Patchwork Road, Shikisai-no-Oka, evening fireworks at Hinode Park, Stay at Petit Hotel Melon Furano (40,000 JPY)

After a night of heavy rain, the morning surprised us with brilliant sunshine – good weather brightens the mood. We packed our day gear and set off from JR Furano Station to Biei, which lies between Furano and Asahikawa. JR Biei Station is built from locally sourced stone and has a lot of character. The small square in front of the station is also beautifully designed. Around it are various distinctive minshuku, and one notable feature of the buildings here is that they display the year of construction. Though the years are old, the buildings have a timeless charm.

A house in front of Biei Station

We headed to Matsuura Shoten to reserve electric bicycles, but were told only regular bikes were available. Knowing there would be many hills to climb today, we decided to visit the Blue Pond first and come back later for e-bikes. After checking the bus timetable to the Blue Pond, we had a leisurely lunch at a Japanese restaurant across from Biei Station, then caught the bus to the Blue Pond from the bus stop outside Yamazaki Pharmacy near the station. About 40 minutes later, we arrived.

Matsuura Shoten – the bicycle rental shop

Tempura-centric lunch

The Blue Pond is surrounded by forest, with waters of a vivid cobalt blue. It's said that due to volcanic eruption of Mount Tokachi, the water contains a lot of aluminum, and because of light scattering, the stronger the sunlight, the more brilliant the blue. Standing dead pine trees fill the water. The pond is serene and gentle, somewhat reminiscent of the pools in Jiuzhaigou or Huanglong in Sichuan. The Blue Pond was photographed by a National Geographic photographer, and the image was acquired by Apple, becoming one of the default Mac OS wallpapers and gaining worldwide attention. Today, taking the bus was much more relaxed than yesterday; we enjoyed the scenery along the way.

Hokkaido has heavy snow in winter; the arrow indicates the road edge for drivers.

Take a numbered ticket when boarding the bus

Back at JR Biei Station, we went to Matsuura Shoten, and just as luck would have it, some electric bicycles had been returned – great timing! They simply noted our names and the time, without any deposit or passport registration hassle, and even gave us a hand-drawn map with a suggested economical cycling route marked based on our needs. At 2 PM, we started our cycling trip on the "Patchwork Road" and to "Shikisai-no-Oka."

Biei is a large area of gently rolling hills. Because each field is planted with different crops, the entire landscape looks like a patchwork quilt. This isn't only for beauty; it's also to maintain soil fertility by rotating crops each year. This has created a unique landscape that is one of Hokkaido's most recognizable sights.

Under the bright sun, the UV rays were strong in Biei, so sunscreen and hats were a must. Following our planned route, we first came to the Ken & Mary Tree. In a 1972 Nissan "Love Horizon" commercial, the protagonists Ken and Mary used this poplar tree as a backdrop, and it has been known as the "Ken & Mary Tree" ever since.

The Ken & Mary Tree

We continued cycling along the Patchwork Road, enjoying the beautiful scenery, until we reached the "Parent and Child Tree." Three cypresses stand close together on a hill, like a family holding together, hence the name.

Then came the famous "Seven Star Tree," a lone cypress on a hill that was featured on the packaging of Seven Star cigarettes in 1976, gaining it wide fame.

Taking a break in front of the Seven Star Tree

Breathing in the fragrance of nature

We arrived at the "Hokusei-no-Oka Observatory Park." The park has a pyramid-shaped observation deck offering panoramic views of the rolling hills and mountain ranges. Since we planned to continue cycling to Shikisai-no-Oka, we just grabbed an ice cream at the park, took a short break, and then moved on.

The expansive view from Hokusei-no-Oka

The route to Shikisai-no-Oka is another cycling route called the "Panorama Road," which required us to return to JR Biei Station and then head in another direction. Many cyclists only pick one route, but hey, we're young and fit, so we were determined to do both and not miss any sights. With the sun still up, we raced off toward Shikisai-no-Oka. The Panorama Road – true to its name – is a route with breathtaking views of the natural landscapes. By now the sun wasn't beating down, so we took off our hats and cycled leisurely, enjoying the breeze and the wide-open vistas. What a delight! After about 45 minutes of cycling, we arrived at Shikisai-no-Oka.

Shikisai-no-Oka covers seven hectares and boasts excellent panoramic views with dozens of flower species competing in color, earning it the nickname "Floral Paradise." It was truly worth the trip! (Cute) (Charming) We lost ourselves in the sea of flowers, taking pictures until closing time, when the staff had to usher us out in a tour cart (Blushing). Shikisai-no-Oka looked even more enchanting in the glow of sunset.

Vibrant sunflowers

Twilight at Shikisai-no-Oka

After soaking in the beauty, we cycled back in the gentle breeze, even encountering a deer that just stared at us blankly for a minute. With our hearts full, we returned to Matsuura Shoten near JR Biei Station just after 7 PM. The elderly owner was waiting specifically for us – it turned out the bikes were due back at 6 PM, and we hadn't noticed that detail earlier. So sorry! We had cycled for 5 hours at 600 JPY per bike per hour; I thought we might have to pay extra for overtime, but the owner still only charged us the total of 6,000 JPY. So thankful!

The deer that locked eyes with us for a minute

Waiting for the JR back to Furano at Biei Station, we ran into a young Japanese man who claimed to be learning Chinese. He and his girlfriend, dressed in yukata, were waiting to take the train to Nakafurano to watch the 8 PM fireworks at Hinode Park! How incredibly lucky! Last night's fireworks in Furano had been marred by torrential rain, leaving us with a little regret. Now, we had stumbled upon the once-a-year Nakafurano Lavender Fireworks Festival! (Love) We boarded the punctual JR to Nakafurano, then quickly grabbed a taxi to Hinode Park (actually about a 15-minute walk from JR Nakafurano Station). At the entrance, we bought some oden for dinner, found a grassy spot in the park, sat on the ground, and waited for the show to start. This fireworks festival is a big local event; many young people come in formal kimono or yukata, and many families attend too. Everyone stands or sits on the ground, sipping beer and drinks, eating snacks. The fireworks kicked off right at 8 PM, each burst in the sky drawing cheers and gasps – beautiful beyond words! This wonderful evening will forever remain in my memory.

Hinode Park fireworks festival

A group photo with friends also enjoying the fireworks

D5 Furano – Kushiro – Lake Akan Lake Akan cruise, Shisai-no-ie izakaya, Natsuki lantern floating Stay at Tsuruga Bessou Hina no Za Lake Akan (77,132 JPY)

We slept in, packed our bags, left the Petit Hotel Melon Furano after two nights, bid farewell to Furano, and boarded a JR train to our next destination: Lake Akan. We took the 9:22 AM train from Takikawa toward Shintoku, got off at Shintoku at 10:52 AM, then boarded the 11:07 AM train from Sapporo to Kushiro, arriving at Kushiro at 1:14 PM. From Kushiro, we caught the 2:50 PM bus "Akan Line," reaching Lake Akan at 4:40 PM (2,000 JPY?). The trains were extremely punctual, making travel planning very convenient. We took a short break in Kushiro, the gateway to eastern Hokkaido, which borders the vast Pacific and the Kushiro Marsh, Japan's largest wetland. Stepping out of the station, we immediately felt the strong wind; the temperature had also dropped compared to Furano.

We chose a restaurant near the station for lunch; though small, it was very clean. While waiting for the bus in Kushiro, we bumped into two elderly sisters from Chengdu. Their luggage consisted of just a backpack each; they hadn't pre-booked, so they couldn't get tickets for the Akan sightseeing bus. I truly admire people of their age who still have the courage to backpack around the world! (Super thumbs up) At 2:50 PM, we boarded the bus to Lake Akan, and after nearly two hours, we arrived.

Timetable from Furano to Shintoku

Timetable from Shintoku to Kushiro

Akan Bus timetable

Our research told us that the Akan bus stop was very close to our hotel, Tsuruga Bessou Hina no Za, but just how close? We were pleasantly surprised when, right after stepping off the bus, a hotel shuttle was already waiting there. The staff loaded our luggage and drove us straight to the hotel. In less than a minute, we arrived – indeed close!

The hotel features 25 unique rooms, each with its own open-air bath. This is where the movie "If You Are the One" characters Qin Fen and Xiaoxiao stayed, which greatly boosted its fame. The exterior looks understated, but inside you discover it's quietly luxurious.

After removing our shoes, we were led through a beautiful lobby to a long, low table facing Lake Akan. A welcome drink was served immediately – a fruity iced water and a dessert like a milkshake. We handed over our passports and enjoyed our treats while waiting. About five minutes later, all paperwork done, they brought it to our table for signature, then showed us to our room on the third floor. The staff member explained every facility: the outdoor bath and shower, complimentary and paid drinks, three styles of yukata, pristine white tabi socks for going out... After many bows and greetings, the introduction finally ended (Phew). We eagerly started exploring the room – wow, it was spacious, with a sliding door separating the Japanese-style bedroom, high-quality leather sofas, a very private open-air bath, all sorts of nifty nooks and exquisite little items. I absolutely loved it. And mind you, having traveled across the US, Europe, Australia, and Southeast Asia, I've seen my fair share – but I was still thoroughly charmed.

Outside Hina no Za at Lake Akan – so understated

Welcome drink

The daylight wouldn't wait, so before the sun set, we changed into yukata and went to show off by the lakeside! But there was a problem: the yukata I'd worn before in Hakone didn't have a bow at the back and wasn't this formal. The diagram on how to wear it was a bit complicated, and we didn't have time to figure it out. So we called the front desk, and within a minute a lady came to help us dress. Once properly attired, we headed straight to the lake! Lake Akan is a volcanic crater lake surrounded by forests. The lake surface was very calm, and strolling along its shore felt wonderful.

We had pre-booked the evening Natsuki lantern floating at 8 PM and dinner at 6 PM. To fully enjoy an authentic kaiseki meal, we set aside two hours for dinner.

Hina no Za at dusk

Lake Akan under the blue sky was stunning

At 6 PM, we went to the restaurant area on the second floor. Four staff members were already waiting to welcome guests. They led us to a Japanese-style private room, ensuring complete privacy. Then the dishes started arriving, each one so exquisitely presented. From appetizers to mains, then dessert, every step allowed us to experience the essence of Japanese service and washoku.

Wearing yukata for dinner added a sense of ceremony

The menu for tonight's authentic kaiseki meal

After the feast, we arrived at the lobby right at 7:50 PM and were led by staff to the lake to board a boat for the Natsuki lantern-floating ceremony. We wrote our wishes on prayer papers, placed them inside round, blue-green glowing lanterns, and set them adrift on Lake Akan, praying for health and peace. The Natsuki lanterns are modeled on marimo algae, turning the lake into a dreamy stage, as if surrounded by countless marimo spheres...

After floating lanterns, we strolled around the Ainu Kotan (indigenous Ainu village). On both sides of the street, dozens of distinctive craft shops sell all sorts of wood carvings, textiles, and souvenirs with a strong northern indigenous cultural flavor. Further along, we came to "Hamako Izakaya" – the real-life inspiration for the "Four Sisters Izakaya" in the movie "If You Are the One." In reality, it's a Kushiro-style robatayaki (grill) run by an elderly couple, not four sisters with a combined age of 300. But because of the film's fame, there's a movie poster outside, and most Chinese tourists to Lake Akan drop by for a "been here" photo.

Hamako Izakaya (the Four Sisters Izakaya)

Taking a photo with some big names

I thought one of the four sisters, Natsuko, looked a lot like Kelly Chen.

A street in Ainu Kotan

A craft shop in Ainu Kotan

Back at the hotel, we took a closer look at the interior and exterior settings, enjoyed the century-old Lake Akan footbath in the lobby, then returned to our room for tea, chatting, and a soak in the open-air bath. We fell asleep utterly content. (Moon)

Century-old Lake Akan footbath

Even the little flower arrangements were thoughtfully done

The open-air bath in the room

The room lighting could be remote-controlled

D6 Lake Akan – Kushiro – Tōro – Shari/Abashiri – Shiretoko Kushiro Marshland Norokko Train, Lake Mashū, Iōzan, Kiyomizu Lily Park Stay at Shiretoko Kitakobushi Hotel (31,400 JPY)

In the morning, we returned to the same private room on the second floor, served by the same staff members as the day before. We had an equally exquisite Japanese breakfast, again unhurried, with coffee and dessert afterward – once more immersing ourselves in the essence of Japanese service.

Reluctantly checking out, we boarded the Akan Bus that had come to pick us up and began a full day of sightseeing. We first traveled to Kushiro, then switched to the Kushiro Marshland Norokko, a steam-hauled green sightseeing train, from Kushiro to Tōro to explore the Kushiro Marsh. This vast marshland is a haven for wild birds like red-crowned cranes, though they usually appear in winter, so we didn't see them this season. The train moves very slowly, but you can still feel the wetland's humid environment and thriving ecosystem.

The Kushiro Marshland Norokko green train

Striking a pose inside the Norokko train

Seats were already reserved when we bought tickets at Sapporo Airport

The Kushiro Marshland Norokko ticket stub

A photo in front of the green locomotive

Surrounded by Hokkaido countryside scenery, we continued on the Eastern Hokkaido Norokko Akan Bus and arrived at Lake Kussharo at 1 PM. Lake Kussharo is also a volcanic caldera lake, and Nakajima Island floating in its center is Japan's largest freshwater lake island. In winter, many swans gather here. We spotted one swan, probably resting and incubating eggs. The sky was overcast, and the temperature was noticeably lower than at Lake Akan, with some mist in the air. We had a buffet lunch at the only available restaurant, the Prince Hotel.

Lake Kussharo – the weather wasn't great

A swan incubating eggs

Leaving Lake Kussharo, we headed to Lake Mashū. Also a volcanic caldera lake, Lake Mashū boasts some of the clearest water in the world. Since no rivers flow in or out, the lake surface is mirror-like and deeply serene in color. The lake is often shrouded in heavy mist (hence its nickname "Misty Lake Mashū") – and indeed, when we arrived, it was completely wrapped in fog (Sweat). We had hoped to see the glass-like surface, but saw nothing, which only added to its mystery. (Pondering) Dense moisture filled the air, so we quickly put on every layer we had, but still didn't feel warm. We left Lake Mashū with a bit of regret. Descending the mountain, the fog noticeably thinned.

At Iōzan (Sulfur Mountain), the familiar smell of rotten eggs hit us. This is an active volcano with a thousand-year history, and its surroundings are barren due to volcanic activity. Many vents were spewing steam, and it felt extremely hot. I snapped a photo with the sulfur steam, feeling like I was about to flee from a volcanic scene.

Iōzan – fleeing the volcanic scene

On the way, we passed through Kiyomizu Lily Park. Though not large, it boasts a huge variety of lilies. All kinds of lilies vied for attention, making it a great photo spot.

Kiyomizu Lily Park

Around 4 PM, we arrived at today's destination: Shiretoko Peninsula in northeasternmost Japan – on the coast of the Sea of Okhotsk that feels almost like the edge of the world. We checked into the Shiretoko Kitakobushi Hotel in Utoro. This is the most luxurious hotel in the Utoro area, right next to Utoro Port, with an excellent location.

After a simple check-in, the extremely enthusiastic staff gave us a thorough tour of the hotel layout – it's huge, with restaurants and hot springs – then led us to our room and went over all the facilities again. We had booked a Japanese-style room, neat and warm. At this time, the room center was set up for tea, with futons all stored in closets; later in the evening, someone would come to lay out the tatami beds.

After freshening up, we went to a restaurant at the hotel entrance with a curtain marked "Noodles" for dinner. We ordered grilled fish and some seafood – very tasty. For a post-dinner stroll, we wandered through the hotel lobby. There's a tour booking area where you can arrange things like the Shiretoko Five Lakes walk, a coastal sightseeing boat, or whale watching; a whiteboard even shows the daily probability of spotting bears from the boat. One side of the lobby faces the Sea of Okhotsk, and past that, you can step onto a terrace for a free footbath overlooking the sea. At the hotel entrance, there's a sign with the weather forecast for today and tomorrow. It was cool enough here – the high was only 23°C (Sweat). Next up, hot spring time! (Blush) We chose appropriately sized yukata from our room, grabbed the woven basket specially provided for guests heading to the baths, and went to the seventh floor of the other wing for the open-air bath. The Kitakobushi's outdoor bath directly faces the Sea of Okhotsk. Soaking in the hot spring while gazing at the sea, with a gentle breeze blowing – what a blissful experience! (Love) The only downside was the weather; there were no stars, otherwise it would have been spectacular. The bath amenities included Shiseido products and Hokkaido's famous horse-oil bath products, which are very moisturizing, and many guests buy horse-oil products from the hotel shop. After the bath, we returned to our room and slept soundly until morning.

Shiretoko Kitakobushi Hotel

Daily sunrise and sunset times posted

Even a dedicated area for glove-changing at the hotel!

D7 Shiretoko Shiretoko Five Lakes walk, Shiretoko Peninsula boat cruise, Oronko Rock Stay at Shiretoko Kitakobushi Hotel (31,400 JPY)

We had pre-booked the Shiretoko Five Lakes walk on the Shiretoko sightseeing website via email (12,000 JPY for two people including gear rental). After breakfast at the hotel, someone came to pick us up from the lobby at 9 AM. Since it was raining, the email had mentioned we could rent rain gear, but I still brought my own umbrella (Sweat). My travel companion Sophia's shoes already looked a bit overwhelmed by the wet ground. Looking at the others' attire, ours seemed the least professional. (Blushing) Our group of eight boarded a bus to a prep point, where we all had to completely change gear! Everyone was required to wear rain boots – fantastic, it saved our overmatched shoes! And we each rented rain gear – full sets of The North Face professional mountaineering jackets! – far from the rain gear I had imagined! (Handshake) I had envisioned low-quality, grimy shared clothing, but each set, packed in a compression bag, looked like new! (Super thumbs up) The rental cost was 1,000 JPY per person (about 50 CNY), a steal considering the never-washed military coats on Mount Emei cost 30 CNY. Even better, we hadn't worn socks, and the staff gave us each a pair of high-quality new white socks (in the end, we were told the socks were free!). Fully kitted out, we looked like entirely different people!

Before entering the Shiretoko Five Lakes area, we had to watch a short film about basic survival tips in case of encountering brown bears and park regulations. Luckily, it was in English, not all Japanese where we'd just guess from pictures. May to July is the active season for brown bears, so a registered guide is mandatory for the Five Lakes. Our guide was the energetic young woman who picked us up in the morning, but she barely spoke English. I thought this walk would be a game of charades – but then a twist!

In our group were two middle-aged women who communicated in a mix of Japanese and English! They quickly realized our Japanese was non-existent and volunteered to translate! It turned out both were Japanese who had lived abroad for years – one in France, who had studied at the prestigious UC Santa Barbara (a famous university! (Blush)), and the other in Seattle, USA – no wonder their American English was so perfect! Now we could understand the guide's explanations! The Five Lakes walk takes about 3 hours, and to protect the ecosystem, there are no restrooms inside. The area consists of five lakes naturally formed in the dense forest of the peninsula, connected by simple dirt paths. Currently, only independent visitors are allowed, not tour groups. Before entering, no food is allowed – especially sweets, because bears have a keen sense of smell (Yum). We also had to clean our shoe soles to avoid bringing in outside plant seeds. We lined up and set off behind our guide. In the Five Lakes area, we saw bear footprints and claw marks on trees everywhere. The guide would occasionally make sounds to check if bears might be ahead. The ecosystem is pristine, like a walk in a true wilderness. Perhaps influenced by the cartoon "Boonie Bears," I kept looking back nervously to see if a bear was following us. The lakes were tranquil and serene, with wild birds and small animals occasionally appearing, maintaining an original natural feel. Walking on the elevated boardwalk by Lake One, the sky cleared up (Love), revealing the full Shiretoko mountain range that forms the peninsula's spine.

Our entire group in mountaineering jackets and rain boots

Bear claw marks on a tree trunk

Wild mushrooms – incredibly fresh

Map of the Shiretoko Five Lakes

Cloud-wreathed Shiretoko peaks

A lotus blooming tranquilly

So pure and pristine

The boardwalk at Shiretoko Five Lakes

Melting into the beauty of nature

A group photo after finishing the walk

Feeling a bit like standing at a podium

This shot has weight

Happily ending the 3-hour walk, we returned to the hotel to rest and have lunch, then prepared for our 3 PM Shiretoko coastal sightseeing boat trip. We had originally wanted the 3-hour course going all the way to Cape Shiretoko, but were told it was canceled due to too few passengers, so we took the 2-hour coastal cruise instead (11,000 JPY for two). It started raining again as we boarded, and we rented rain gear – this time real rain gear, but excellent quality. We chose seats on the deck; with rain gear, we weren't afraid of the wind. The boat followed the Utoro coastline, and along the way we saw landforms carved by drift ice and waterfalls plunging straight from cliffs into the sea. This area is also a paradise for brown bears, sika deer, and other wildlife. The helpful staff frequently scanned with binoculars to spot bears for us. The boat played "Shiretoko Ryojō" (Shiretoko Travel Song) by Kato Tokiko, which instantly added a romantic feeling.

As we approached Rusha Bay, brown bears started popping up one after another – they were out foraging (Apple). Our large boat allowed us to watch from a safe distance, and with a telephoto lens we could capture the bears' leisurely strolls. On the way back, the rain stopped and a rainbow appeared.

Sika deer – this is their paradise!

Three bears taking it easy

A chubby bear – probably a foodie

The temperature on Shiretoko Peninsula – really cool! We wore everything we could layer

A recent bear sighting diagram displayed on the first floor – so vivid!

Drift ice exhibit at the hotel – Shiretoko's winter drift ice is quite famous (Super thumbs up)

Shiretoko sunsets are gorgeous, but today's clouds were too thick to see one (Sweat). After disembarking, we strolled near the hotel and noticed the sunset glow was also beautiful (Smile). Following the direction of the glow, we arrived at Oronko Rock – this is the place! We huffed and puffed up several hundred steep steps to the rocky summit and reached the Sunset Terrace – just breathtaking! (Blush) (Charming) The whole Sea of Okhotsk was bathed in evening colors, with seagulls soaring overhead – the scenery was like a painting... We had dinner at a purely Japanese-style restaurant opposite the hotel, and the food was good. When ordering, there were no pictures on the menu, and the proprietress didn't understand a word of English – after some futile pantomiming, a Taiwanese family at the next table kindly translated for us, and we ate smoothly. That evening, we again enjoyed the hotel's open-air bath, looking up at the night sky and gazing at the twinkling lights of distant fishing boats, feeling completely relaxed in body and mind.

The Sunset Terrace on Oronko Rock

D8 Shiretoko – Abashiri – Sapporo Oshinkoshin Falls, Road to the Sky, Koshimizu Primeval Garden, Kitahama Station, Sapporo TV Tower, Sapporo Ramen Republic Stay at Ichiku Chitose Hotel Sapporo (15,500 JPY)

After a rich hotel breakfast and checking out, we boarded the Eastern Hokkaido Shiretoko Twinkle Bus that came to pick us up at 9 AM sharp and headed to Oshinkoshin Falls. Two streams tumble down the cliff – one elegant, one robust – meeting in the valley below, one of the Eight Views of Shiretoko. Standing close, the misty spray hits you, and if you look back, you can still glimpse the vast Sea of Okhotsk.

Oshinkoshin Falls

Next, we reached the Road to the Sky, a scene from the movie "If You Are the One" that captured many fans' imaginations. It's an undulating rural road; because it's long and rolling, looking ahead it seems to stretch endlessly into the sky. Set against Hokkaido's sparsely populated, vast fields, with the original Japanese song "Hoshi" (Star) playing, it understandably fires the imagination of many travelers.

We then arrived at Koshimizu Primeval Garden, where summer wildflowers blanket the ground in vibrant colors. Part of the Abashiri National Park, between the Sea of Okhotsk and Lake Tōfutsu, the garden blooms with over 40 varieties of wildflowers. The view is expansive, and we saw local children sketching there.

Koshimizu Primeval Garden

The expansive view from Koshimizu Primeval Garden

Koshimizu Primeval Garden

Right next was Kitahama Station, the spot where Qin Fen and Xiaoxiao step off the little train in "If You Are the One." It's an unmanned station and the closest one to the sea, small but charming, having served as a filming location for many domestic and international productions.

A commemorative photo at Kitahama Station

The Eastern Hokkaido Shiretoko Akan Bus arrived in Abashiri around noon. Abashiri is a major transport hub in eastern Hokkaido. To Japanese people, Abashiri is synonymous with "prison," similar to what Alcatraz represents to Westerners – famous for its severe winters and a still-operational prison. (Skull) After a brief rest in Abashiri, we boarded a JR train to Sapporo. The Shiretoko Akan Bus staff bid us a very warm goodbye before we left.

A model of Abashiri Prison inside Abashiri Station

The JR journey from Abashiri to Sapporo takes over five hours, giving us a good chance to rest on the train. Departing at 1:29 PM, we arrived in Sapporo at 6:50 PM. As planned, we stored our luggage at the JR station and headed out with our camera. We used two 700 JPY coin lockers for our suitcases. Many JR stations in Japan have self-service luggage lockers; you choose the size that fits, insert coins, and get a key.

Just left of the JR station exit is ESTA, and we went straight to the Ramen Republic on the 10th floor, to the famous Shiraka Sansou recommended by many online. After a short queue, we were seated. We ordered the "gekikara" (extra spicy) ramen with large slices of pork and bamboo shoots – absolutely delicious. Also, free unlimited boiled eggs are provided!

We walked toward Odori Park for about 20 minutes and reached the Sapporo TV Tower. We bought observation deck tickets on the third floor for 720 JPY each and rode the elevator straight up. The tower stands 147 meters tall, resembling the Eiffel Tower, built in 1957 as a landmark of Odori Park. From the 90-meter high deck, you can take in panoramic views of the city. Sapporo had lit up for the night; bustling urban streets, neon signs, hurried pedestrians – such a gorgeous nightscape... Thinking we'd leave Hokkaido tomorrow, I felt a twinge of reluctance. Coming down from the tower, we strolled through Sapporo's streets back to JR Station, looking around just to take in one last view of the streetscape. We took a JR train to our hotel for the night: Ichiku Chitose Hotel. The hotel is very close to the airport with a shuttle service, but since we arrived so late, the shuttle for our early morning timing was fully booked. We had to sort out our own transport to the airport, but fortunately it was very close.

View from Sapporo TV Tower

Sapporo JR Center

D9 Sapporo – Osaka – Kyoto Kyoto Gion, Yasaka Shrine, Maruyama Park, Ishibei-koji, Hanami-koji Stay at Gion Maifukan (27,200 JPY)

We got up early and asked the hotel to book us a taxi. A few minutes' ride costing 1,530 JPY brought us to New Chitose Airport. We boarded the 8:25 AM Jetstar Airways flight from Sapporo to Osaka; no free checked luggage, so we paid 5,200 JPY for baggage.

Goodbye, Hokkaido! Around 10:40 AM, we touched down at Kansai Airport. From Kansai, the Limited Express Haruka train goes directly to Kyoto, priced at 3,570 JPY per person. To give ourselves a little more time, we chose the 12:16 PM departure, arriving Kyoto at 1:31 PM. Under the scorching midday sun, we arrived at JR Kyoto Station. Exiting, we saw many tourists waiting at bus stops. Our research said bus 206 goes to our booked Gion Maifukan. But considering our suitcases on the bus, we opted for a taxi instead. There was a bit of traffic; about 20 minutes and 1,400 JPY later, we were at Gion Maifukan. The hotel is near Yasaka Shrine, on Ishibei-koji; not large, but cozy and extremely convenient.

Check-in time was 3 PM, but after we finished the paperwork and were about to leave for lunch, they told us we could check in early – perfect for freshening up (Super thumbs up). After a quick tidy-up in the room and armed with a hand-drawn map from the front desk, we set off.

Kyoto sits in a basin, so summer temperatures are high – at least 35°C today. Yet this place is so magical that we braved the heat to fly here from cool Hokkaido. Near Yasaka Shrine, we chose a restaurant called "Ishidan Shita no Ie" for lunch and ordered two eel rice bowls. Ice water immediately cooled us down. The eel was delicious, paired with miso soup; maybe because we'd eaten little for breakfast, we polished off every grain.

The restaurant "Ishidan Shita no Ie"

After lunch, we started our Kyoto itinerary. We wanted to catch a bus to Kinkaku-ji from the stop in front of the Starbucks opposite Gion Kaikan, but were told the stop was temporarily closed due to an event. So we turned back to Yasaka Shrine and noticed more and more people in traditional festival costumes gathering – it was the Gion Matsuri, the posterior festival procession. Gion Matsuri is Kyoto's biggest annual festival, originating over 1,100 years ago when a plague was rampant, and people held rituals to ward off disease, which evolved into today's tradition. We watched a series of preparations inside the shrine; participants ranged from 80-year-olds to teenagers. Amid drumming and gongs, we saw them off as they exited Yasaka Shrine. We then strolled around Yasaka Shrine toward Chōraku-ji and Maruyama Park. Kyoto was packed with tourists (half seemed to be Chinese tour groups), and the heat was intense, so we simply walked back to the hotel for a rest.

Outside Yasaka Shrine

People in Gion preparing for the festival

Almost time for the festival

A crowded Yasaka Shrine in the afternoon

By around 5 PM, the sun wasn't as fierce, and we rallied to head out again. We walked along Ishibei-koji toward Kōdaiji. At this hour, there were far fewer tourists, making the lanes wonderfully pleasant to walk. Photos were no longer group shots where you're just background for others and vice versa. Quietly stepping along stone-paved lanes bearing centuries of wear, with the setting sun casting its glow on rooftops and paths, it felt as if time had stopped – everything was so perfect. This was the Kyoto feeling I'd been searching for! (Love) We slowly looped back to Hanami-koji, where the lights were just coming on. Flower arrangements at doorways, hanging lanterns, partially closed doors – how many stories lie behind these entrances... Kyoto preserves Japan's traditional culture best, especially around Gion, which is why it draws visitors from all over the world.

How many stories hide inside?

I love these stone-paved lanes the most

Beautifully preserved old buildings

Temple lanterns against the blue sky

Every residence's doorstep flowers are a scene

Ishibei-koji at early evening

A little Kyoto girl peeking out from a shop

Lanterns with a very atmospheric feel

Distinctive lanterns adorning Gion's lovely evening

We rested for a long time at a café with a great ambiance at the entrance of Hanami-koji, each ordering a high-calorie ice cream (Blushing). On our leisurely way back to the hotel, we saw many police officers maintaining order; the stone steps in front of Yasaka Shrine were crowded with people. It turned out the afternoon festival was only part of it – the main event was tonight! We quickly found a spot on the steps and waited for the evening performance to begin.

At 9 PM, the main festival procession began. Squads of people marched by, all chanting slogans. Even though I couldn't understand, everyone around was joining in, so we shouted along too – the atmosphere was electric, and we felt part of it! Then came the float parade, each float bearing symbolic meaning. To us, it was just a fascinating spectacle, but also a chance to experience local customs. The parade lasted about an hour, and we ended our day thoroughly satisfied. P.S. Since we'd mostly used cash in Hokkaido, we were running low today. Luckily, we found a Seven-Eleven and withdrew cash via UnionPay – we had money again!

All age groups joining in

The evening Gion Festival begins (that person in the middle...)

Gion Maifukan at night

D10 Kyoto – Osaka Kiyomizu-dera, Osaka Shinsaibashi, Nanba Stay at Swissôtel Nankai Osaka (68,000 JPY)

We booked breakfast at the hotel for 8:30 AM, but we got up even earlier to visit Kiyomizu-dera, which opens at 6 AM. Going early meant fewer crowds and less heat. Summer dawns early in Japan, and by 7 AM the sun was already strong. We took bus 202 from the stop outside our hotel, just two stops to Kiyomizu-dera. Walking about ten minutes uphill on a stone-paved path brought us to the temple. Kiyomizu-dera (entrance 300 JPY) is one of Kyoto's most ancient temples, founded in 798 and rebuilt in 1633. It's a landmark. The main hall has a huge veranda supported by numerous wooden pillars, built out over the hillside. Walking through the temple in the early morning, the air was fresh; we used ladles at the Otowa Waterfall to drink the clear water and made wishes. Dappled tree shadows brought a sense of a wonderful day ahead.

Kiyomizu-dera is on a hill, so the view is excellent

Good morning, Kiyomizu-dera!

Jishu Shrine inside Kiyomizu-dera – a place to pray for love

The main hall of Kiyomizu-dera, supported by wooden pillars

A distant view over Kyoto city

The Kiyomizu Stage, the main hall

Otowa Waterfall, whose pure waters flow ceaselessly, is ranked first among Japan's ten famous springs, and gives the temple its name

Dappled paths inside Kiyomizu-dera

Following the lanes back to our hotel, we enjoyed a Japanese-style breakfast prepared by Gion Maifukan. The restaurant had an open kitchen and elegant atmosphere. After leisurely finishing breakfast, we packed up and left the hotel at 11 AM for JR Kyoto Station. We asked the hotel to book a taxi, and staff saw us off right to the curb. Goodbye, Kyoto!

The hotel's beautifully prepared Japanese breakfast

KYOTO JR stations all have luggage storage areas, very handy. Many JR stations in Japan have this service.