#Sky over Kosei#: 14-Day Kansai Free Travel – D4: One-Day Trip to Shirahama, Sandanbeki, Senjojiki, Engetsuto, etc.
May 26, 2025. Today I started using the Kansai Wide Area Pass, destination Kii-Katsuura, with a one-day stopover in Shirahama.
Since I couldn't get a reserved seat ticket for the limited express, I had to take a local train to Shirahama. I chose the early morning train (departing at 6:04 AM) (this service requires a transfer at Kii-Tanabe Station, but the transfer time is only 2 minutes, and the platform is adjacent—no need to cross the footbridge to another platform) to avoid the peak period and arrive in Shirahama as early as possible. That meant leaving the hotel before 5:00 AM (wasting a delicious buffet breakfast). Fortunately, Japan's sky gets bright early, so it didn't feel like traveling under the stars.
At 5:50 AM, waiting on the platform, I saw the legendary Panda Train (all reserved seats).
Arrived at Shirahama Station two hours later.
After exiting the station, I first went to the self-service luggage storage room next to it to store my suitcases (two 24-inch ones) at 600 yen per day per piece, then traveled light.
The loop bus arrived. I boarded and bought a one-day pass from the driver for 1,100 yen per ticket.
The front of the pass has scratch-off numbers for the month and day; scratching off the corresponding date indicates the pass is officially in use.
The back lists the names and codes of all bus stops along the route, making it easy for passengers to follow and get off when announced. Just show the pass to the driver when alighting.
At 9:00 AM, we arrived at the first scenic spot – Sandanbeki.
Sandanbeki is a cliff about two kilometers north of Shirahama, with a depth of about 60 meters. It is named for its three different rock types: igneous, transport ore, and collapse rock.
Hundreds of millions of years ago, underwater volcanic activity formed this spectacular cliff. The raging waves of the Pacific's Kumano Sea have sculpted here a myriad of sea-eroded landscapes. Especially during spring tides, the rising tide, driven by northeast winds, crashes against the cliff, stirring up thousands of snow-like sprays, evoking awe at the power of nature.
This is also the most famous rock fishing spot in southern Honshu, known for abundant large blackfish in winter and early spring. Anglers often gather below the steep cliffs, and you can sometimes witness thrilling battles between man and fish.
Lipstick Monument – a poignant legend, a stone monument bearing witness to a vow.
After finishing our tour of the unforgettable Sandanbeki, the next stop was Senjojiki, a 10-minute walk away.
Senjojiki is a geological feature named because it looks like many layers of tatami mats stacked together. The sloping rock protruding from Setozaki into the Pacific Ocean has been eroded by raging waves, creating a magnificent landscape. It's like an artwork co-created by the earth and the sea.
Nature is so miraculous; you can't imagine such beauty without seeing it in person.
Nearly noon. Next, we headed for lunch, taking the bus to the Toretore Market.
A dazzling array of seafood; such a difficult choice—I wanted to eat everything.
Freshly sliced tuna attracted many diners.
WeChat Pay was accepted. The portion I got cost 2,350 yen (118.8 yuan). Maybe due to the different cut of the fish, the texture was slightly inferior to that at Kuroshio Market.
I also picked some staple foods and sushi, totaling 2,900 yen (146.6 yuan). I was full.
The Toretore Market even has a dedicated two-story barbecue area.
After lunch, I took the bus to Shirarahama (White Beach).
Shirarahama is known as one of the most beautiful beaches in Kansai, famous for its 620-meter white sand beach and clear waters. The sand is fine and white, of excellent quality, specially brought from Australia.
Summer is the peak tourist season at Shirarahama, where visitors can enjoy swimming, sunbathing, diving, beach volleyball, beach motorbikes, and surfing.
In May, the water temperature is still low, not suitable for swimming—just play in the water.
Due to a landslide on the mountain road near Engetsuto, repairs were underway, and the bus could not enter. It wasn't far to walk from Shirarahama, about two stops away.
The bus couldn't get in.
Zooming in, you could see the road being repaired.
Ofune Foot Bath is a free footbath. After walking for most of the day, it was great to soak our feet and relieve fatigue.
Soaking our feet while admiring the beautiful view of Engetsuto—what a pleasure!
After the footbath, we still had some time to explore other parts of Shirahama.
From a distance, it looked like an amusement park, but it turned out to be a luxury hotel.
Amishirazu Pier—here, the scenery was different again, with picturesque mountains and clear waters.
Seagulls were not afraid of people.
Time was running out. We took the bus back to Shirahama Station; the one-day pass had fulfilled its mission.
Snapped a quick photo at Shirahama Station.
Boarded the limited express at 5:20 PM heading to Kii-Katsuura.
Waiting on the platform. The train was delayed, arriving at 5:43 PM.
Got off at Kii-Katsuura Station and found the hotel I had booked (Blue Pier Business Hotel, just a few minutes' walk from the station). Checked in smoothly.
The room was decent in size, L-shaped, with twin beds and complete facilities.
After settling in, I immediately went out to find food. The streets were deserted—it was almost 8:00 PM. Surprisingly, all the nearby shops were already closed, and even the supermarket was shut.
Kii-Katsuura Station was also empty.
Passed by the restaurant in the photo below (the photo was taken the next day when passing by; it was too dark to take that night).
I went in. The owner said they would close at 8:30 PM. If I didn't mind finishing the meal within half an hour after it was served, they could cook for us. Of course, we had to finish in half an hour—otherwise, we'd go hungry tonight.
Due to time constraints, I quickly chose a set meal and a regular meal.
I never expected such a hasty dinner in Kii-Katsuura. It was indeed a special travel experience.
